Greetings from Peru, I just entered the National University of Engineering Lima-Peru, and your projects inspired me to pursue a career in aerospace engineering. I even won several science competitions thanks to you in high school.
@user-kl8ig8ls6k6 күн бұрын
Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your educational journey, it should never end. “To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.” Thomas Edison
@kevinbates72452 ай бұрын
@ernieduncan6023 ай бұрын
Similar to the toner transfer of laser printed image on paper to a unfinished wood surface using Acetone/lacquer thinner and an iron set on high, which will also release toner thats been printed page. pretty nifty
@alexanderose28904 ай бұрын
What a cool design. I especially like the way you CNCed your rafters!
@XatxiFly5 ай бұрын
Thank you for this very cool and informative project - and I share your ethics around making accessibility more, well, accessible.
@John-gm8ty7 ай бұрын
you could probably print up two laves to encase the downpipe it's self removing the need for the bracket, and then mounting the lever plate assembly onto one of the halves so that it becomes one sealed setup.
@John-gm8ty7 ай бұрын
Deserves MANY more likes.
@patrickbodine13008 ай бұрын
Going on 4 years on my pv-connected water heater. Works good, not perfect. 40 gallon tank preheating the 5 gallon rv tank. 4 panels. 2 pairs, one set to the top element, two to the bottom. Each set in series. Nothing fancy like yours.
@user-kl8ig8ls6k8 ай бұрын
Mine is not perfect either. I'm still surprised when I do hear the gas fired LP water heater fire up, It's a rare thing. I'm glad I did this project.
@curlyonamotorcycle41688 ай бұрын
good plan man
@pieandpeas89298 ай бұрын
I have this exact same issue for nearly the exact same application. I intended to use six waterproof DS18B20 sensors to an Arduino Uno using a star arrangement to control a solar differential system to determine optimal pump operation, so I have the sensors at various places along the pipework. The project works faultlessly with any of four or less sensors, but add a fifth or sixth and I get nothing, or -127C. They all can work individually, so I know there is no fault within each device and they also work in any order of four. However, add more, I get the problems. I had resigned myself to only having four but just last night I started looking at using the ROM device addresses issue instead of index , but thought I would check here first. Thanks jtandhz for this posting and I will return once the changes have been made.
@pieandpeas89298 ай бұрын
Well, I did try this, but without success. I get five of the six sensors working, but adding the sixth reintroduced the errors I was having. What did work, was changing the resistor from the 4k7 to a 1k8. Worked straight away. I will keep monitoring the sensors by address as it will make it easier to debug if things went wrong in future. Thanks for your input.
@unionse7en10 ай бұрын
I have a counterbalanced cnc head that I made. In your case and mine, we realized that gravity (weights) or a pneumatic cylinder in my case, has an advantage over mechanical or air or gas springs (closed) in that they can apply a constant force regardless of travel. Also in the case of an pneumatic cylinder I used a pressure regulator to keep the pressure constant and allow easy counter balance adjustments.
@unionse7en10 ай бұрын
Cee purlin are probably the lightest/cheapest way to get beams with minimized static deflection. This channel is great! I'm trying to promote it, I sent a link to the Hackaday peeps.... Not sure but IIRC they may have covered your weed burner.
@unionse7en10 ай бұрын
hmm might try with a local application on some pipe and a heat gun and move down the pipe as i go
@jtandhz10 ай бұрын
Now I'm wondering about hooking the tube up to an engine exhaust for the heat...
@maciejlegowicz583410 ай бұрын
This is quite interesting. Can you share what pull-up resistor did you use? In our project we have in total 13 sensors with similar topography. I managed, using variable resistors board establish that we needed 2.2KOhm between +5v and data line, however, after unplugging USB power from arduino mega it stops working. Would external power just for sensors help? Cheers
@jtandhz10 ай бұрын
I used a single 4.7K resistor between Vc and the signal on the buss that all my sensors are plugged into. DS18b20 only uses 1ma per sensor and a Megga can supply 40ma per pin so you should not need an external source. Have you looked into your sensors and found if they are counterfeit? Counterfeit sensors may be out of specs of OEM so that could be one possibility.
@olivialynch565410 ай бұрын
Thank you for showing this. For some reason I can not find the pattern.. elbow, shoulder , knee I got the the tin man done but with the shoulders and such it will look better. I volunteer in our local theatre. Thanks
@jtandhz10 ай бұрын
Thanks, however the shoulders were not part of this. I was helping a friend at a theater in Oregon and they used the knees' and elbows I designed but they designed the shoulders themselves. The shoulders are similar to the elbows but larger.
@timkirkland634411 ай бұрын
is the JTOTAT" Back-Table dead? Thinking of making one of these... My back is killing me.
@jtandhz11 ай бұрын
It's alive and well. I use it 3-4 times a week. When I'm on it I think it's the best thing I've made in a while.
@gero29111 ай бұрын
Thank you. Very inspiring and all information needed to attempt my own solar AC.
@geoffedwards18911 ай бұрын
Many thanks for this! And also for the final tip about the DS18B20. I have been planning to build an Arduino based yogurt maker for some time, hopefully your video will give me the kick in the butt I need. Thanks again.
@johnraffensperger Жыл бұрын
I want one! Would be great to add a camera to recognize dandelions, set it free in the yard.
@mememe4821 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this. I need to make one badly. Very nicely done.
@jtandhz Жыл бұрын
Thanks! hope you found my follow up of the detailed build of this table : kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbQ.html
@mememe4821 Жыл бұрын
@@jtandhz I did. I am going to have to sweet talk my husband into welding. I can do everything but the welding. Okay, I can weld but don't expect it to stay together 😜. I am curious, did you have any issues with the foam? I picture foam wanting to get stuck in the rollers so I was thinking of gluing something to the underside of it to prevent that from happening. I didn't get to watch the full video yet. We were out and about when I found this video so you may have covered it but if you didn't, please let me know if it is an issue. I am about to watch the rest now 😊
@jtandhz Жыл бұрын
@@mememe4821 The foam was from a mattress pad and it has not been a problem. The wheels rotate and roll when pushing the foam. A covering would have been nice no keep it cleaner however. If interested I have upgraded my software to be more responsive to the control transmitter as well as to slow down at certain areas such as the lumbar and upper back. I can post it to gethub or email it it you want it. Jon
@cormcass Жыл бұрын
Goog morning I wonder if you could send me the patterns for the joints as I am making costume for a show and would love to make theses joints. Thanks Cornelia
@jtandhz Жыл бұрын
In my 3rd. video about this; kzread.info/dash/bejne/daGok8mbmKWzf6Q.html I show how to make the patterns for the elbow and knees. Should be easy to replicate.
@ozzfest78 Жыл бұрын
great seat but first thing i did is bypassed seat safety switch
@opera5714 Жыл бұрын
I wish I could do tracking. There is no place that gets more than 2 hours of sun a day. Calculating position is far more reliable than using optical detection. These optical systems are a legacy of pre micro days. If the world is going to end, I want to be on a solar forum. That will give me another twenty years to live. I found the oil filled radiators make great heaters for PV solar. Found several at the curb due to poor controls that fail. Due to severe shade at my location my panels are in parallel at 60V for best all day performance. Surprising that at 60V and a little less than 400W, these heaters get really hot and are not touch safe. I use PWM from a capacitor bank to keep the panels at optimum voltage. Also have periodic arc interrupt so that standard mechanical contacts can be used to daisy chain elements safely. Your switch across heating elements in series is a good way to get around relays that can't handle HV DC. But, higher voltage and lower voltage is the way to go to match more common elements and lower transmission losses. With your understanding of micros you should try this. I hate to waste power and every watt counts. I specialize in heating domestic hot water with PV. If interested I can provide proven design details.
@michaelcarman4875 Жыл бұрын
i am amazed that there are commentors who know what you are doing. i've been working with pv and other solar stuff for years. i'm 77. and your video is simply meaningless to me in a practical sense. i am amazed.
@erich1394 Жыл бұрын
just curious - solid state vs opto isolated mechanical relay? I used the opto mech relay for my version of this project. I had the same basic idea as you, just ended up using a stainless steel pot and an electric burner as the water bath. Put one temp probe in the yogurt (inside a plastic sleeve made from lay flat tubing) and one probe in the water bath. I just ran my greek yogurt culture for 18 hours at 105 degF, then let it come down to room temp for another 6 hours. Haven't refrigerated yet, not sure if I curdled it too much again! We shall see. I like that I can adjust the temp precisely so I don't keep making the same mistakes. Thoughts on times/temps? I heard you can do the initial ferment pretty hot (Think like 110) for a couple hours then let it come down to room temp for a few more hours, haven't tried that.
@jtandhz Жыл бұрын
Both will work. I like the simplicity of SSR and also prefer non-mechanical contacts when switching any higher amp devices (many cheap SSRs knock offs out there so always try for quality and I also use them way below what they are rated for). Can't beat homemade yogurt!
@honumoorea873 Жыл бұрын
There is not such thing as a 48v or 220v element, their internal resistance is what matter AND the max power they can sustain. With those 2 parameters you can do what you want.
@sandyseffrood4384 Жыл бұрын
Neat - will have to stop by and see it sometime!
@jtandhz Жыл бұрын
Great, make it a nice day and we'll have a picnic.
@mikefochtman7164 Жыл бұрын
I had some I was using to monitor a GFX heat exchanger and some other 'around the house' items (furnace, incoming water supply, unheated as well as heated spaces). And yeah, I ran into the same issue of accessing by index. But by then I had installed them all, so it took a bit to figure out what the addresses were for each device. But in the end, have to agree, access them by address every time! Thanks for sharing your hard-won experience.
@knowledgeshortvideos2 жыл бұрын
Hi. I have a problem: dc element: 48v, 1500 ( same as yours in photo) .. connected it to 3 parallel pvs( 40~50v) , 450watts each, around 10 amps each ... cable used 2×6mm^2 ... distance between pvs and element around 35meters .. volt out: 44v ... problem: when switched on, voltage drops to 13v ... wires get hot ... please can you help me what is the problem? Thanks
@jtandhz2 жыл бұрын
You have designed a system that has 50% more power than mine. Three 450 watt panels at 45 volts is 30 amps. ( I = P/V The current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W) divided by the voltage V in volts (V). I would check the resistance of your heating element and rerun the MPP calculations in the video. Also; kzread.info/dash/bejne/nYqV2qOfiLS2dLg.html is another video (not mine) of matching heating elements to your power. Your wire size is also smaller?? and longer than what I used. I used 1/0 welding cable and my length is 23 m (75 feet). I'm not sure of what you mean by 2×6mm^2, however if you are using 6mm wire for that distance and current it is undersized. You might want to look into a MPPT controller and run your panels in series, however I don't have expertise in that. To paraphrase the inventor Thomas Edison; you have not failed, you have just found one more way that didn't work.
@shifty19782 жыл бұрын
Great, easy to follow video. I do have a question though. I can't seem to figure out how to chamfer the edge of something using a 45 degree v-bit. It either only makes a single pass at the top or tries to plunge all the way to the bottom.
@goamhobala2 жыл бұрын
thanks man, very well explained I come back here every year for my school electrical project
@mybodyisreggie27592 жыл бұрын
Hololive fan detected
@debraperretta66102 жыл бұрын
Thank you! My electronics students will be using this in conjunction with our curriculum to make switches for children at ARC. We will also make the copper battery connector. I am in disbelief at the high cost of these switches!
@StephenMattison662 жыл бұрын
Great tips! TYVM! Getting ready to build Tin Man costume for my daughter's boyfriend for HS play. Could you send me the templates that you have for this costume? Did you end up making the entire thing? Where did you get your funnel, or did you make it? TY!
@jtandhz2 жыл бұрын
Thanks! I was helping out a friend for her play and my contributions were just the elbows and knees. Here are the two other videos that have a pattern you can copy/make and how the pieces were made. kzread.info/dash/bejne/ipiC09eHgJPFiso.html kzread.info/dash/bejne/daGok8mbmKWzf6Q.html
@JohnnieNorsworthy2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this excellent advice. The hours of debugging this you saved benefit everyone. I was just about to install a cluster of these probes all about my house plumbing.
@connor70882 жыл бұрын
@jtandhz Thank you for providing the video. It is greatly appreciated. Would you happen to know the estimated cost of materials for this project? Understandably material costs have changed in recent times, but if you could still provide a rough estimate it would be most helpful.
@jtandhz2 жыл бұрын
Thanks, I guessing it was around $500 for the parts I bought. I did have the shorter linear motor from a wheelchair tear-down and the aluminum and steel on hand was from left over projects. After two years of using, I can say it was well worth it.
@connor70882 жыл бұрын
@@jtandhz Thank you!
@masonslag61782 жыл бұрын
Would you be able to control a motor, servo or dc, using the mouse wheel? I'm working on a project for school and I'm working on getting this set up using a bread board!
@jtandhz2 жыл бұрын
Sure but getting the mouse to work on this Uno took a bit of mouse rewiring/interfacing. Start with an Arduino that can support a mouse such as the leonardo. Check out REV spark controllers for easy motor control.
@hardborngaming24002 жыл бұрын
How to download anymote alp
@kevinbates72452 жыл бұрын
Thumbs up on a well executed coop.
@jtandhz2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Kevin!
@seanhayden95102 жыл бұрын
Do you know if there is adruino code that exists to use the original dual joy sticks? I have had to replace 2 control boards and would rather just convert it to the arduino and PWM motor controllers. thanks, Sean.
@jtandhz2 жыл бұрын
Sean, I'm unaware of any Arduino code that interfaces to the hall effect joysticks. It's probably possible. I never looked at the joystick outputs as I needed a single mini joystick. The older original wild thing just had switches so there may be a way. Jon
@laurencampbell42992 жыл бұрын
The file uploaded to thingiverse does not include the connecting pieces that make the body of the straw. Do you think you could provide those as well?
@iiorexoii3 жыл бұрын
just posted my rapid prototype version of what you built kzread.info/dash/bejne/aZ9szMWgoNjdabg.html . absolutely love this next level solution, wonderful video!
@Magestyx13 жыл бұрын
@jtandhz - fantastic - can't wait to give it a try! Thanks much!
@loveSparklesonU3 жыл бұрын
Hi do you know anything about the seat to seat sensor?when she sits forward it works when she sits back ot doesn't.
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
That's odd. the seat sensor is located under the back of the seat (red button). So I can see why it does not trigger when someone is on the very front but unsure of your scenario.
@brittneyleahc3 жыл бұрын
Do you happen to have online templates? I'm doing Wizard of Oz and we open in two weeks...all I have is a foam piece! I'm nervous to start cutting. :/
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
Please see the tin man 3 video as I show a foam sheet that has been laid out into 1 inch grid patterns. That will allow anyone to draw a grid on their sheet and transfer the patterns I also have on that sheet. The foam I used is just floor mat foam sheets from a local big box hardware store so it's no big deal if you have to practice on one. A very sharp knife and a place to cut it on is important. The foam is forgiving so don't worry. Be careful of the fumes from the contact glue. Jon
@Magestyx13 жыл бұрын
Is there any further info you'd be willing to share? I'm desperate to build one of these. Long long loooong time back pain sufferer here. Any help at all would be hugely appreciated.
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
I'm just finishing up a project so I'll make a follow up "how-to-build" video and post the code ASAP.
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
Here it is; kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbQ.html
@zachsams69943 жыл бұрын
Do you have schematics, diagrams, or plans that you could share?
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
I'm just finishing up a project so I'll make a follow up "how-to-build" video and post the code ASAP.
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
Here it is; kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbQ.html
@skrahen13 жыл бұрын
do you sell kits?
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
Unfortunately, no.
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
No kits, but here is more info on the table; kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbSt.html
@dailyhauntedhistory3 жыл бұрын
'Aluminum is cheap' funniest joke I've heard all year.
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
I think you need to get out more...
@edsmith88313 жыл бұрын
I bought the Maslow CNC. I haven't started to build the frame yet. I really like your set up and I'm going to fallow you on your ideas. They make sense the way you explain out your parts and measurements. I will be starting mine in the next few days. I have heard about some problems even with the Z axes. One thing at a time and figure this out. Thank you for sharing. Helps a lot!
@dannymeeusen3 жыл бұрын
Sir, you have absolutely saved the day. I was banging my head on my desk trying to figure out all these settings, Google, Google, Google, and I am SO glad I found this video. This video is going to be shared by me for sure! Thank you very much!!!
@jtandhz3 жыл бұрын
Thanks, be sure to see the newer one with the table. It goes into more detail about selecting bodies so you will not get any warnings.
Пікірлер
Greetings from Peru, I just entered the National University of Engineering Lima-Peru, and your projects inspired me to pursue a career in aerospace engineering. I even won several science competitions thanks to you in high school.
Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your educational journey, it should never end. “To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.” Thomas Edison
Similar to the toner transfer of laser printed image on paper to a unfinished wood surface using Acetone/lacquer thinner and an iron set on high, which will also release toner thats been printed page. pretty nifty
What a cool design. I especially like the way you CNCed your rafters!
Thank you for this very cool and informative project - and I share your ethics around making accessibility more, well, accessible.
you could probably print up two laves to encase the downpipe it's self removing the need for the bracket, and then mounting the lever plate assembly onto one of the halves so that it becomes one sealed setup.
Deserves MANY more likes.
Going on 4 years on my pv-connected water heater. Works good, not perfect. 40 gallon tank preheating the 5 gallon rv tank. 4 panels. 2 pairs, one set to the top element, two to the bottom. Each set in series. Nothing fancy like yours.
Mine is not perfect either. I'm still surprised when I do hear the gas fired LP water heater fire up, It's a rare thing. I'm glad I did this project.
good plan man
I have this exact same issue for nearly the exact same application. I intended to use six waterproof DS18B20 sensors to an Arduino Uno using a star arrangement to control a solar differential system to determine optimal pump operation, so I have the sensors at various places along the pipework. The project works faultlessly with any of four or less sensors, but add a fifth or sixth and I get nothing, or -127C. They all can work individually, so I know there is no fault within each device and they also work in any order of four. However, add more, I get the problems. I had resigned myself to only having four but just last night I started looking at using the ROM device addresses issue instead of index , but thought I would check here first. Thanks jtandhz for this posting and I will return once the changes have been made.
Well, I did try this, but without success. I get five of the six sensors working, but adding the sixth reintroduced the errors I was having. What did work, was changing the resistor from the 4k7 to a 1k8. Worked straight away. I will keep monitoring the sensors by address as it will make it easier to debug if things went wrong in future. Thanks for your input.
I have a counterbalanced cnc head that I made. In your case and mine, we realized that gravity (weights) or a pneumatic cylinder in my case, has an advantage over mechanical or air or gas springs (closed) in that they can apply a constant force regardless of travel. Also in the case of an pneumatic cylinder I used a pressure regulator to keep the pressure constant and allow easy counter balance adjustments.
Cee purlin are probably the lightest/cheapest way to get beams with minimized static deflection. This channel is great! I'm trying to promote it, I sent a link to the Hackaday peeps.... Not sure but IIRC they may have covered your weed burner.
hmm might try with a local application on some pipe and a heat gun and move down the pipe as i go
Now I'm wondering about hooking the tube up to an engine exhaust for the heat...
This is quite interesting. Can you share what pull-up resistor did you use? In our project we have in total 13 sensors with similar topography. I managed, using variable resistors board establish that we needed 2.2KOhm between +5v and data line, however, after unplugging USB power from arduino mega it stops working. Would external power just for sensors help? Cheers
I used a single 4.7K resistor between Vc and the signal on the buss that all my sensors are plugged into. DS18b20 only uses 1ma per sensor and a Megga can supply 40ma per pin so you should not need an external source. Have you looked into your sensors and found if they are counterfeit? Counterfeit sensors may be out of specs of OEM so that could be one possibility.
Thank you for showing this. For some reason I can not find the pattern.. elbow, shoulder , knee I got the the tin man done but with the shoulders and such it will look better. I volunteer in our local theatre. Thanks
Thanks, however the shoulders were not part of this. I was helping a friend at a theater in Oregon and they used the knees' and elbows I designed but they designed the shoulders themselves. The shoulders are similar to the elbows but larger.
is the JTOTAT" Back-Table dead? Thinking of making one of these... My back is killing me.
It's alive and well. I use it 3-4 times a week. When I'm on it I think it's the best thing I've made in a while.
Thank you. Very inspiring and all information needed to attempt my own solar AC.
Many thanks for this! And also for the final tip about the DS18B20. I have been planning to build an Arduino based yogurt maker for some time, hopefully your video will give me the kick in the butt I need. Thanks again.
I want one! Would be great to add a camera to recognize dandelions, set it free in the yard.
Thank you so much for this. I need to make one badly. Very nicely done.
Thanks! hope you found my follow up of the detailed build of this table : kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbQ.html
@@jtandhz I did. I am going to have to sweet talk my husband into welding. I can do everything but the welding. Okay, I can weld but don't expect it to stay together 😜. I am curious, did you have any issues with the foam? I picture foam wanting to get stuck in the rollers so I was thinking of gluing something to the underside of it to prevent that from happening. I didn't get to watch the full video yet. We were out and about when I found this video so you may have covered it but if you didn't, please let me know if it is an issue. I am about to watch the rest now 😊
@@mememe4821 The foam was from a mattress pad and it has not been a problem. The wheels rotate and roll when pushing the foam. A covering would have been nice no keep it cleaner however. If interested I have upgraded my software to be more responsive to the control transmitter as well as to slow down at certain areas such as the lumbar and upper back. I can post it to gethub or email it it you want it. Jon
Goog morning I wonder if you could send me the patterns for the joints as I am making costume for a show and would love to make theses joints. Thanks Cornelia
In my 3rd. video about this; kzread.info/dash/bejne/daGok8mbmKWzf6Q.html I show how to make the patterns for the elbow and knees. Should be easy to replicate.
great seat but first thing i did is bypassed seat safety switch
I wish I could do tracking. There is no place that gets more than 2 hours of sun a day. Calculating position is far more reliable than using optical detection. These optical systems are a legacy of pre micro days. If the world is going to end, I want to be on a solar forum. That will give me another twenty years to live. I found the oil filled radiators make great heaters for PV solar. Found several at the curb due to poor controls that fail. Due to severe shade at my location my panels are in parallel at 60V for best all day performance. Surprising that at 60V and a little less than 400W, these heaters get really hot and are not touch safe. I use PWM from a capacitor bank to keep the panels at optimum voltage. Also have periodic arc interrupt so that standard mechanical contacts can be used to daisy chain elements safely. Your switch across heating elements in series is a good way to get around relays that can't handle HV DC. But, higher voltage and lower voltage is the way to go to match more common elements and lower transmission losses. With your understanding of micros you should try this. I hate to waste power and every watt counts. I specialize in heating domestic hot water with PV. If interested I can provide proven design details.
i am amazed that there are commentors who know what you are doing. i've been working with pv and other solar stuff for years. i'm 77. and your video is simply meaningless to me in a practical sense. i am amazed.
just curious - solid state vs opto isolated mechanical relay? I used the opto mech relay for my version of this project. I had the same basic idea as you, just ended up using a stainless steel pot and an electric burner as the water bath. Put one temp probe in the yogurt (inside a plastic sleeve made from lay flat tubing) and one probe in the water bath. I just ran my greek yogurt culture for 18 hours at 105 degF, then let it come down to room temp for another 6 hours. Haven't refrigerated yet, not sure if I curdled it too much again! We shall see. I like that I can adjust the temp precisely so I don't keep making the same mistakes. Thoughts on times/temps? I heard you can do the initial ferment pretty hot (Think like 110) for a couple hours then let it come down to room temp for a few more hours, haven't tried that.
Both will work. I like the simplicity of SSR and also prefer non-mechanical contacts when switching any higher amp devices (many cheap SSRs knock offs out there so always try for quality and I also use them way below what they are rated for). Can't beat homemade yogurt!
There is not such thing as a 48v or 220v element, their internal resistance is what matter AND the max power they can sustain. With those 2 parameters you can do what you want.
Neat - will have to stop by and see it sometime!
Great, make it a nice day and we'll have a picnic.
I had some I was using to monitor a GFX heat exchanger and some other 'around the house' items (furnace, incoming water supply, unheated as well as heated spaces). And yeah, I ran into the same issue of accessing by index. But by then I had installed them all, so it took a bit to figure out what the addresses were for each device. But in the end, have to agree, access them by address every time! Thanks for sharing your hard-won experience.
Hi. I have a problem: dc element: 48v, 1500 ( same as yours in photo) .. connected it to 3 parallel pvs( 40~50v) , 450watts each, around 10 amps each ... cable used 2×6mm^2 ... distance between pvs and element around 35meters .. volt out: 44v ... problem: when switched on, voltage drops to 13v ... wires get hot ... please can you help me what is the problem? Thanks
You have designed a system that has 50% more power than mine. Three 450 watt panels at 45 volts is 30 amps. ( I = P/V The current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W) divided by the voltage V in volts (V). I would check the resistance of your heating element and rerun the MPP calculations in the video. Also; kzread.info/dash/bejne/nYqV2qOfiLS2dLg.html is another video (not mine) of matching heating elements to your power. Your wire size is also smaller?? and longer than what I used. I used 1/0 welding cable and my length is 23 m (75 feet). I'm not sure of what you mean by 2×6mm^2, however if you are using 6mm wire for that distance and current it is undersized. You might want to look into a MPPT controller and run your panels in series, however I don't have expertise in that. To paraphrase the inventor Thomas Edison; you have not failed, you have just found one more way that didn't work.
Great, easy to follow video. I do have a question though. I can't seem to figure out how to chamfer the edge of something using a 45 degree v-bit. It either only makes a single pass at the top or tries to plunge all the way to the bottom.
thanks man, very well explained I come back here every year for my school electrical project
Hololive fan detected
Thank you! My electronics students will be using this in conjunction with our curriculum to make switches for children at ARC. We will also make the copper battery connector. I am in disbelief at the high cost of these switches!
Great tips! TYVM! Getting ready to build Tin Man costume for my daughter's boyfriend for HS play. Could you send me the templates that you have for this costume? Did you end up making the entire thing? Where did you get your funnel, or did you make it? TY!
Thanks! I was helping out a friend for her play and my contributions were just the elbows and knees. Here are the two other videos that have a pattern you can copy/make and how the pieces were made. kzread.info/dash/bejne/ipiC09eHgJPFiso.html kzread.info/dash/bejne/daGok8mbmKWzf6Q.html
Thank you for this excellent advice. The hours of debugging this you saved benefit everyone. I was just about to install a cluster of these probes all about my house plumbing.
@jtandhz Thank you for providing the video. It is greatly appreciated. Would you happen to know the estimated cost of materials for this project? Understandably material costs have changed in recent times, but if you could still provide a rough estimate it would be most helpful.
Thanks, I guessing it was around $500 for the parts I bought. I did have the shorter linear motor from a wheelchair tear-down and the aluminum and steel on hand was from left over projects. After two years of using, I can say it was well worth it.
@@jtandhz Thank you!
Would you be able to control a motor, servo or dc, using the mouse wheel? I'm working on a project for school and I'm working on getting this set up using a bread board!
Sure but getting the mouse to work on this Uno took a bit of mouse rewiring/interfacing. Start with an Arduino that can support a mouse such as the leonardo. Check out REV spark controllers for easy motor control.
How to download anymote alp
Thumbs up on a well executed coop.
Thanks Kevin!
Do you know if there is adruino code that exists to use the original dual joy sticks? I have had to replace 2 control boards and would rather just convert it to the arduino and PWM motor controllers. thanks, Sean.
Sean, I'm unaware of any Arduino code that interfaces to the hall effect joysticks. It's probably possible. I never looked at the joystick outputs as I needed a single mini joystick. The older original wild thing just had switches so there may be a way. Jon
The file uploaded to thingiverse does not include the connecting pieces that make the body of the straw. Do you think you could provide those as well?
just posted my rapid prototype version of what you built kzread.info/dash/bejne/aZ9szMWgoNjdabg.html . absolutely love this next level solution, wonderful video!
@jtandhz - fantastic - can't wait to give it a try! Thanks much!
Hi do you know anything about the seat to seat sensor?when she sits forward it works when she sits back ot doesn't.
That's odd. the seat sensor is located under the back of the seat (red button). So I can see why it does not trigger when someone is on the very front but unsure of your scenario.
Do you happen to have online templates? I'm doing Wizard of Oz and we open in two weeks...all I have is a foam piece! I'm nervous to start cutting. :/
Please see the tin man 3 video as I show a foam sheet that has been laid out into 1 inch grid patterns. That will allow anyone to draw a grid on their sheet and transfer the patterns I also have on that sheet. The foam I used is just floor mat foam sheets from a local big box hardware store so it's no big deal if you have to practice on one. A very sharp knife and a place to cut it on is important. The foam is forgiving so don't worry. Be careful of the fumes from the contact glue. Jon
Is there any further info you'd be willing to share? I'm desperate to build one of these. Long long loooong time back pain sufferer here. Any help at all would be hugely appreciated.
I'm just finishing up a project so I'll make a follow up "how-to-build" video and post the code ASAP.
Here it is; kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbQ.html
Do you have schematics, diagrams, or plans that you could share?
I'm just finishing up a project so I'll make a follow up "how-to-build" video and post the code ASAP.
Here it is; kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbQ.html
do you sell kits?
Unfortunately, no.
No kits, but here is more info on the table; kzread.info/dash/bejne/fa5r0KRpg8WZcbSt.html
'Aluminum is cheap' funniest joke I've heard all year.
I think you need to get out more...
I bought the Maslow CNC. I haven't started to build the frame yet. I really like your set up and I'm going to fallow you on your ideas. They make sense the way you explain out your parts and measurements. I will be starting mine in the next few days. I have heard about some problems even with the Z axes. One thing at a time and figure this out. Thank you for sharing. Helps a lot!
Sir, you have absolutely saved the day. I was banging my head on my desk trying to figure out all these settings, Google, Google, Google, and I am SO glad I found this video. This video is going to be shared by me for sure! Thank you very much!!!
Thanks, be sure to see the newer one with the table. It goes into more detail about selecting bodies so you will not get any warnings.