Great video. I knew what I needed to do but you cleared some stuff up for me. Thanks so much.
@justfreedude4 ай бұрын
Hey do you still have the hinges installed and how are they holding up? Are they rusting at all, or any other issues? Thanks!
@davidm32107 ай бұрын
Nice tutorial thanks - but please remove metal jewelry when working around the battery.
@OverbuiltAdventure7 ай бұрын
Shouldn't result in a condition that would create an arc, but point taken, and also for hands-in-tight-spaces reasons, I've since switched entirely to silicone bands in the shop. Thanks!
@Deuceblank9 ай бұрын
What a cluster😂
@Dr.Meola1980 Жыл бұрын
Jesus Christ why does everyone use dielectric grease. You do not put it on your terminals before you connect your wires. You should always clean your battery real good connect your wires. Then and only then cover the terminal with dielectric grease.
@knifeknerdreviews4609 Жыл бұрын
Vinegar and baking soda? why would you mix an acid and a base? If you are trying to neutralize acid you use the opposite side of the PH Scale, an alkaline product. Baking Soda in distilled water is perfect.
@OverbuiltAdventure Жыл бұрын
In this case I'm not trying to neutralize the acid, I just want my posts as clean as can be. Vinegar and baking soda combined has all of the benefits of baking soda and water, but it causes a reaction that creates CO2 bubbles that help clean away the corrosion from all of the nooks, crannies, and microscopic valleys that your wire brush alone won't reach.
@Evolution8R Жыл бұрын
hope that Bus bar does not flex into anything.... bizzztt
@wanderingoglethorpe Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the quick video!
@joebenham27 Жыл бұрын
I’m guessing there must be current running through the brass body of the bus bar. Why is it that we don’t cover that with some kind of insulation to prevent it from being exposed?
@OverbuiltAdventure Жыл бұрын
This is kind of why the comments from some below about using only copper or dielectric grease, while correct in a lab, may not be the best in practice. Brass is stiffer, cheaper, and doesn't require a coating to prevent corrosion from the elements. The length of the bus bar is so short, that the difference in conductivity is barely measurable. We aren't using a 20 foot bus bar. Dialectric grease is best for conductivity, by that's not the only problem posed by vehicle batteries. Gas/fluid leaks are too, and that's what vaseline will help seal out, just don't coat the whole stud, just the bottom. You *could* cover the bus bar it if your engine bay is messy or you or family are clumsy with tools, but it is no different that the two exposed leads on the battery itself. If you arc positive to negative, you're going to get sparks, and possibly a fire. Keep them distanced, and you're a-okay.
@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369 Жыл бұрын
never BRASS --- ALWAYS Copper
@hethaerto1 Жыл бұрын
Dielectric grease blocks voltage.
@alljunk48242 жыл бұрын
Not to rain on your parade but this has multiple no-no. ex. nut not fully engage on the studs, at 1:39 you have a large AWG red cable connected on a small #14 wire connection, nothing is fused, 05:01 a what 1/2? or 1/4" connector on a 1/8 stud, same for the next, 05:34 Vaseline is NOT an electrical conductor it has isolation property so you are making your connection worse, 07:16, on the positive side one wire crossing over a different at a point where the conductor connectors are exposed, 08:21 again a small gauge wire Red at the bottom of the electrical tree with a larger yellow wire on top, 08:31 a positive wire is rubbing and chaffing again a Neg post that will make sparks, no boots on the Pos terminal, wire color codes not respected. The internet is a funny place. Cheers, a.
@freakyflow2 жыл бұрын
Only thing i seen that was off ...Dielectric grease instead of vaseline ( Vaseline is a petroleum-based mixture of minerals with a melting boil of 38° to 54° C (100° to 130° F) Engine temps surpass this every day Dielectric grease you can get in the 500° C ranges Also if the vaseline touches rubber it does draw out moisture in the rubber And makes it brittle ...Wires, Hoses etc The bus bar : If you are getting to a point that you have more than 2 or 3 wires going to your battery a Bus bar may be what is needed However Why would still need to have the bus bar at the battery? I run a Bus bar box off the side of my fender And run 2 main lines into the battery. I am blown away that Jeep V6 has the battery hook ups facing the Engine
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
Yep, I always go dialectric grease, and should not have said that Vaseline would work as well. As for the location, this product was conceived because of a problem that Jeepers have been dealing with for decades: minimal space. Wranglers have always been small, but about 15 years ago the engine compartment really got cramped. There's not really room for a traditional marine-style busbar without changing the position of the battery, which just changes which space is eaten up. There will still be a tradeoff that may make it more difficult or near-impossible to (properly) mount a switch system, for instance. Thanks for the comment!
@RANDOM-cq6of2 жыл бұрын
I really love this set up , what kind of lift kit do you have and tire size ? Thank you
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
It took a number of builds and tweaks to get things dialed for sure. This one has Metalcloak Game Changer 3.5" suspension on 33" tires (Black Rhino Bantam wheels) 👍
@vaibhavsuryawanshi55302 жыл бұрын
NICE INFORMATION SIR LOVE FROM INDIA 🥰😇🙏
@joecurlee93202 жыл бұрын
That is an awesome awning. Nice video
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
It's so good I could hang from it...at my twenties weight.
@NWGarage2 жыл бұрын
I do like the video , but I do gotta say this wiring looks as messy at the end with the new parts as it did in the beginning Still a neat video 👍🏼
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
Fair comment, this build has a lot of accessories that require direct-to-battery connection that were installed at different times. If there were room in this engine compartment for a sidewall-mounted marine bus bar, running new wires would be best.
@NWGarage2 жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure agreed, the “remote location “ blocks are great - Amazon has them fairly inexpensive and you can get them to receive all the way up to a 0 or 2 gauge power wire to keep the connections real strong 💪🏽
@paulb38622 жыл бұрын
Is that an Iceco?
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
SnoMaster 42L 💙
@mostlymoparih56822 жыл бұрын
Good video. I would say excellent video but you left out where you got you bus bar from? Happy Motoring.
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
😅 You can typically find them for your application at a battery speciality store, but the ones in the video happen to be from Quadratec: www.quadratec.com/products/17004_9001.htm
@mostlymoparih56822 жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure Thanks Excellent video.
@rocketeightyseven18232 жыл бұрын
Can you use the busbar on a marine application with a Lifepo4 battery?
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
In a Marine application you shouldn't be attaching many devices to your battery, regardless of chemistry. For instance if you're using a "drop-in" LiFePO4, you'd still run to a house fuse panel to distribute the loads on individually fused circuits.
@rael6_4wd2 жыл бұрын
After researching every step currently available, I agree, these steps are the best on the market. Your review is also excellent. Thank you.
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching and stopping by!
@kevincoffey60222 жыл бұрын
Got the Adventure roof rack system. Do you know where Metalcloak has a PDF on installation? thanks
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
Just follow the links on the product page for what you ordered, near the bottom. images.metalcloak.com/KMS/Products/R55000-JK-Wrangler-4-Door-Pro-Rack/II-R55000-JK-Wrangler-4Door-Pro-Rack-Installation-Instructions.pdf Or come to Bend, OR and we will install for you!
@drvictoria072 жыл бұрын
Awesome. It's hard to find one for a side post battery 🔋
@christopherhendricks43692 жыл бұрын
For a side post negative bus you can order side mount terminal from Rockford Fosgate or schoshe. Then connect the bus to that or connect the bus remotely using minimum 8awg .
@davidkay73892 жыл бұрын
Nice video. Looking to clean my Jeep engine bay with some bus bars
@scottanderson84072 жыл бұрын
What roof rack do you have on this Jeep?
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
Gobi Stealth
@scottanderson84072 жыл бұрын
That’s what I was thinking, but couldn’t see any of the telltale signs from this vid… Good stuff! I’ve been waffling between these Metalcloak steps and the Smittybuilt Atlas, but I think this video pushed me to a decision toward these Metalcloaks.
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
@@scottanderson8407 Yeah I really like them. FWIW, if I were buying a new rack today, I'd go with Metalcloak as well. Part of their acquisition of KMS included an adventure rack that is a similar design and strength, but doesn't take 8 months...
@Plarson4272 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the great video. I installed these today, super easy and the video helped me prepare. One difference, my kit came with only JK spacers so I didn’t have to identify which is which. Maybe they changed that a bit. I had a couple extra nylon washers too. Tucked them away with the stock hinge bolts in case I need them later.
@OverbuiltAdventure2 жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful! They should still come with model-specific spacers, more square for the JK and more rounded for the JT/JL. Both spacer styles would work on the JK and protect the paint, there's just a more factory-fit finish on the JK using the square spacer. Definitely hang on to those extra parts! Thanks for stopping by.
@Vaish_allly2 жыл бұрын
hello everyone , i have one question about the busbar , busbar design : why are sometimes more strips needed and sometimes less, on what that does depend? thank you
@anicetomaldonado2 жыл бұрын
It depends on the amperage and volts lots of power creates lots of heat. A bus bar allows you to add multiple runs with and without fuses (depending on the need) to one point. With a bar you can have one thick wire coming off the battery and connect two, five, ten or twenty thick wires to the one battery post. Or a very easy connection point for multiple batteries and multiple audio amplifiers. (Done very regularly in high end mega bass vehicles) if all you are doing is adding extra sockets like for charging phones or small led lights, a bus bar will not be needed, in that case you could get by with just a blade fuse block. Hope that helps.
@walter.bellini3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the great quality video. Going to be helping my best friend to install these tomorrow. Looking forward to the project. <WB>
@joecurlee93203 жыл бұрын
When I wear a shirt like the one you're wearing I can see my bare skin between each button. Is that what you meant by calories built in to my frame?
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
😂
@travistaft8383 жыл бұрын
Wish they’d offer the step portion in their signature zinc coating, or whatever gives them the gold look.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
That would look great with a few of the JL/JT color options, especially if you're already Cloaked out. I'll kick your suggestion up the ladder.
@travistaft8383 жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure if you’re doing that, add in blacked out or zinced bolt heads as well. It’s all in the details. Great video.
@cygfyspatyvm38123 жыл бұрын
Where can I buy those terminals and buss bars? I got multiple 1/0 AWG runs for car audio.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Link's in the description, cheers mate!
@mybobbleheads Жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure not seeing the link
@kengeroo3 жыл бұрын
hmmm quite worried... torque''ing down the hinge bolts the heads started to strip.. I backed down the torque to 10lbs and slowly increased.. at 12 lbs all heads started to strip ? HELP Please !!!!
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
They are soft as mentioned, so they will strip before overtorquing. Make sure you're using the right size bit and not a "close enough", that it is fully seated in the bolt head, and that you are not exerting any force off-angle. Also could be that your torque wrench is not precise-many aren't, especially at low torque. An alternative would be to use a T-handle Allen wrench and twisting it snug. 20lbs is pretty close to what you can apply twisting using the long end of those wrenches before the rod of the Allen key itself also begins to twist.
@kengeroo3 жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure just heard from metla cloak,, because the antiseaze creates a wet-install, it'll drop the torque spec down. They mentioned torque specs s/b 8-10 lbs. Wish this was somewhere in the instructions,, or wish there were some instructions. :)
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
@@kengeroo Yeah they slide right in! Instructions are available here, I'll add a link in the description as well. images.metalcloak.com/KMS/Products/R60265-MetalCloak-Pro-Step/R60265-Pro-Step-Installation-Instructions.pdf
@kengeroo3 жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure thx ! - no mention of torque settings though,, I had torque'd mind to about 11-12 lbs before the started to strip the heads.. wondering if I should undo them and re-torque,, the rubber gaskets do look a little squished.
@kengeroo3 жыл бұрын
it seems like I have extra washers ???
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Yike! One extra of each part is no biggie, they like to give you overages to cover problems/lost parts. Otherwise: Go back to the exploded diagram in the install instructions page 1 and compare to your installed steps. Could be that you skipped a couple in assembly. They are pretty meticulous when shipping out gear, so it's unlikely that they sent multiples of extra parts.
@kengeroo3 жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure nope -- I ordered 2 kits -- both had incossitent # of parts.. I suppose as long as the nylong washers are where they are supposed to ,, all will be good ?,, it's not like it's drive train. .. correct me if I am wrong.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
@@kengeroo I've never had any issues with that, I'd give them a call. You can find the parts list on page 3 of the installation instructions. When we install equipment here, we always take the extra step to separate and itemize the parts on Grypmats. Can save a lot of headaches!
@broswhoknowstuff3 жыл бұрын
I found it easier in the beginning to lay the step on a table and: insert the outer black plastic gasket first. Place the metal step on, over the outer gaskets. Be sure to get the position correct. Then, using needle-nose pliers, slip the inner gasket over the short, stubby thick bolt on the inside. Nothing ever falls off. Really simple approach. Then, using the same approach with the needle-nose pliers slip on the 'thin' washer. And, finally repeating with the needle-nose, simply place the Nyloc nut over the thread and use the outer head of the bolt to begin the threading.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Needlenose pliers are underrated, good tip!
@jamesjannell87063 жыл бұрын
With that chrome plated shaft exposed will this survive the salt road chemical elements in the NE. ? Curious if anyone has experience with the falcon in salty environment and is it holding up. . Thx.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Teraflex claims: “1,000-hour salt spray corrosion resistance test on all hardware”. There are many types of chrome plating, and a hard chrome is fairly common for piston rods of automotive shocks. You might reach out to Teraflex’s tech team for more info on what plating process they are using and customer experiences in the NE. We are located in the high desert of Central Oregon and they have only recently begun using chemical treatments in limited use (mag chloride, sodium chloride, and a corrosion inhibitor) on our roads so we can’t speak directly from experience here.
@jamesjannell87063 жыл бұрын
@@OverbuiltAdventure first thank you for your speedy reply snd insight. I will definitely reach out to teraflex to get more information on the corrosion side of things. Have a great weekend folks. 🇺🇸
@ultrajazz53353 жыл бұрын
The Epic Family Road Trip is where I first saw these and just had to have them for my JK.
@rcud13 жыл бұрын
On Gladiator uses a diff bracket to mount. I recently added this on mine and not as much improvement as I had hoped.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Yeah the JT is a different platform, and in our limited experience with them (the aftermarket is still young), they seem better suited for desert than trails. Curious what feeling you had with the JT stock steering that prompted you to reach for this upgrade? Having specific problems?
@OldCrowsClassicCars3 жыл бұрын
This is kind cool, Haven;t seen any bus bars with this quality around. Since I couldn't find any, I decided to make them, and I made them so that not event the almighty would be able to destroy them. Here's the link to my video in case anyone wants to buy or see one. kzread.info/dash/bejne/kaCMspl7e7jdlM4.html The only ones I foudn that came close to mine were being sold for $400.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Haha, that's rad, well done mate!
@zr2overlander3233 жыл бұрын
Hoping you can help me out. I want to see if this is compatible with the factory accessory post on my Chev ZR2 which is 6mm. Any way you can measure the post that you connected the busbar to and let me know? Would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Hey there! Yeah this same set should work, the empty accessory post on the JK that these are made for are also 6mm.
@doc5593 жыл бұрын
🏆🏆🏆👍🇺🇲🙏 Thank you for sharing
@Fetherko3 жыл бұрын
Radio Interference from ignition could be snubbed with an inductive coil or a ferrite choke. Aftermarket stereos use them. I did this professionally. It paid well, so I retired and hit the trail. I am trying to figure out how to get one more terminal on my stock Silverado. Having fun here. Great video, man!
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Interesting, I'm used to seeing those on certain electronics, hadn't thought about it for in-vehicle radios. Would you need to install one at both ends of the power wire? Does the type that you'd use vary based on the frequency spectrum of the radio system? (GMRS, Ham, CB, etc.). Cheers!
@OffRoadOverlandCamping3 жыл бұрын
Question, I have a 2014 JK, I recently upgraded d-link, track bar and steer stabilizer. I notice when driving on the freeway, my steering feels stiff and I'm constantly correcting my steering because it feels too stiff. Will this Falcon 2.2 change that?
@0VRLNDR3 жыл бұрын
What size wheels and tires and what lift? Specifics of upgrades so far? Lot of variables involved.
@OffRoadOverlandCamping3 жыл бұрын
I have 35" tires, 4.5" springs, recently upgraded my track arms to the Teraflex Alpine IR. I'll be changing my springs to the Teraflex Dual rated 4" springs, shocks and speed bumps. My front in, I upgraded the drag link and track bar to Currie. I also had to replace my Synergy ball joints and right now I have a Fox steering stabilizer. One my stock dranklink & trackbar joints wore out, I upgraded everything. After I did that, my Jeep has been super stiff to drive on the hwy. I'm constantly over steering (small corrections). The steering feels tight, which is good, but it seems to be too tight. I had OC Motorsports do the work, when I took it back, they said its normal and I need to drive the vehicle to break it in. Now, I'm at 1 year later and it still drives the same way. These mechanics are idiots.
@0VRLNDR3 жыл бұрын
@@OffRoadOverlandCamping On Medium, the Falcon 2.2 closely matches stock steering stabilization. On High it is very stiff, almost like a sports car. On Soft, it's nice and floaty. Normally you'd only want to drop it down to Soft for off-road, but if it's a personal preference thing, there certainly wouldn't be anything wrong with it. If you haven't already, I'd have an alignment shop give you all of your measurements. It could be that the lift left some OEM parts in your suspension that are negatively impacting your steering. Control arms, etc.
@OffRoadOverlandCamping3 жыл бұрын
@@0VRLNDR OK thanks for the heads up. I bet the shock they installed is for larger tires. My steers feels like a sports car, but a little tighter. I'm now have Rebel Off-Road do all of my work. I think I'll have them double check the front end to make sure OC Motorsport did the work correctly. I've had my Jeep aligned several times, so I know what is not the issue. I like the concept of Teraflex, everything I've read and the people I talk to that have their products love them. My old lift was AEV 4.5" HD Springs. After I broke a bracket, I wanted to try something new, so I switched to Teraflex to see the difference. I like keeping everything the same do I don't have a lot of mismatched parts.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
@@OffRoadOverlandCamping Sorry, replied from the wrong KZread channel, those are our replies. 🤦♂️
@doc5593 жыл бұрын
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏 Subscribed Thank you for sharing.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the sub!
@PBS-nm1uu3 жыл бұрын
the busbar part number??
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
The one used in this video is Quadratec JK-HDBT12 Extreme Duty Battery Terminals: www.quadratec.com/products/17004_9003.htm For 2011 and lower JKs, it's just JK-HDBT: www.quadratec.com/products/17004_9001.htm
@bags8833 жыл бұрын
Not 100% but I was sure the Kargo Masters steps separated at the bottom to make them a two piece product. The bolt is under the down tube is it not?
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Yeah you're correct, just checked my originals. The new design is still better, IMO, and many other hinge steps out there don't have that feature.
@brianmartin79643 жыл бұрын
you can also use a small sheet of silicon rubber to cover the battery terminals to prevent contact. Much easier that trying to tuck the pos and neg away.
@shokojimhollingsworth39403 жыл бұрын
Having trouble finding the bus bar kit. Unfortunately I drive a non-jeep vehicle. Trying to add bus bars to my GMC savana adventure van. Wondering if the quadratec kit you posted might still work...
@0VRLNDR3 жыл бұрын
As long as you have solid lead terminals instead of stamped steel, you can probably use any manner of brass accessory bar. You may need to pick up some more appropriate bolts from the hardware store if your terminals are threaded differently.
@hippo-potamus3 жыл бұрын
Any concern with leaving the positive terminal connections exposed? I was going to replace both of my basic oem terminals with 6 spot terminals for additional connection points but I don't particularly like the idea of having the positive terminal exposed. Any solution to this? Thanks.
@0VRLNDR3 жыл бұрын
What's your concern, specifically? If it would add peace of mind, you would need to cover it with some non-conductive material. Something like Coax-Seal would probably work, it's pliable and would fit around any shape necessary.
@hippo-potamus3 жыл бұрын
@@0VRLNDR Its peace of mind. Mitigate any possible accidental shorts to ground. I'm probably just being overly cautious.
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
@@hippo-potamus That's never a bad thing. Let us know what you end up using, maybe we'll do an update.
@joebenham27 Жыл бұрын
@@0VRLNDRI saw that he put a washer between connection on the end of the cable and where it makes contact with the brass on the bus bar. Is that ok? And is it ok to do that same thing when connecting to a fuse?
@OverbuiltAdventure Жыл бұрын
@@joebenham27 Washers just distribute the load of the bolt across the surface instead of just the threads. Good idea any time, or you can use a flange nut to accomplish the same purpose. Not sure what you mean about connecting to a fuse, can you elaborate?
@matnelen17243 жыл бұрын
can you open the doors fully with them on?
@OverbuiltAdventure3 жыл бұрын
Yes you can, they do not interfere with the door operation when deployed nor do they risk denting your panels if you open and close a door with the step deployed. That said, I don't think you'd want to step on them with the door open, as it would be like standing on a ladder while someone is moving it. Also if the rear door has the step deployed and is fully open, the front door would clip the end of the step if opened or closed. It would have to be really dark and/or someone really not paying attention for that to happen though. Hope that helps!
@DavidShirley3 жыл бұрын
Great video, thanks. Just to clarify - if the step is up in the stored position does an open back door interfere with the front door opening or closing?
@michaelbryant28613 жыл бұрын
@@DavidShirley @Overbuilt Adventure I had the same question. Just wondering if when the steps are folded up, are there any worries about someone opening a door too wide and hitting the step against the other door? Specifically, can the back door be open all the way and then open the front door without risk of hitting the step (folded in of course)?
@JoMonki3 жыл бұрын
This was perfect thank you for the all in one full on detailed information you provided. This one video answered all my questions and I am sold on these!
Пікірлер
Great video. I knew what I needed to do but you cleared some stuff up for me. Thanks so much.
Hey do you still have the hinges installed and how are they holding up? Are they rusting at all, or any other issues? Thanks!
Nice tutorial thanks - but please remove metal jewelry when working around the battery.
Shouldn't result in a condition that would create an arc, but point taken, and also for hands-in-tight-spaces reasons, I've since switched entirely to silicone bands in the shop. Thanks!
What a cluster😂
Jesus Christ why does everyone use dielectric grease. You do not put it on your terminals before you connect your wires. You should always clean your battery real good connect your wires. Then and only then cover the terminal with dielectric grease.
Vinegar and baking soda? why would you mix an acid and a base? If you are trying to neutralize acid you use the opposite side of the PH Scale, an alkaline product. Baking Soda in distilled water is perfect.
In this case I'm not trying to neutralize the acid, I just want my posts as clean as can be. Vinegar and baking soda combined has all of the benefits of baking soda and water, but it causes a reaction that creates CO2 bubbles that help clean away the corrosion from all of the nooks, crannies, and microscopic valleys that your wire brush alone won't reach.
hope that Bus bar does not flex into anything.... bizzztt
Thanks for the quick video!
I’m guessing there must be current running through the brass body of the bus bar. Why is it that we don’t cover that with some kind of insulation to prevent it from being exposed?
This is kind of why the comments from some below about using only copper or dielectric grease, while correct in a lab, may not be the best in practice. Brass is stiffer, cheaper, and doesn't require a coating to prevent corrosion from the elements. The length of the bus bar is so short, that the difference in conductivity is barely measurable. We aren't using a 20 foot bus bar. Dialectric grease is best for conductivity, by that's not the only problem posed by vehicle batteries. Gas/fluid leaks are too, and that's what vaseline will help seal out, just don't coat the whole stud, just the bottom. You *could* cover the bus bar it if your engine bay is messy or you or family are clumsy with tools, but it is no different that the two exposed leads on the battery itself. If you arc positive to negative, you're going to get sparks, and possibly a fire. Keep them distanced, and you're a-okay.
never BRASS --- ALWAYS Copper
Dielectric grease blocks voltage.
Not to rain on your parade but this has multiple no-no. ex. nut not fully engage on the studs, at 1:39 you have a large AWG red cable connected on a small #14 wire connection, nothing is fused, 05:01 a what 1/2? or 1/4" connector on a 1/8 stud, same for the next, 05:34 Vaseline is NOT an electrical conductor it has isolation property so you are making your connection worse, 07:16, on the positive side one wire crossing over a different at a point where the conductor connectors are exposed, 08:21 again a small gauge wire Red at the bottom of the electrical tree with a larger yellow wire on top, 08:31 a positive wire is rubbing and chaffing again a Neg post that will make sparks, no boots on the Pos terminal, wire color codes not respected. The internet is a funny place. Cheers, a.
Only thing i seen that was off ...Dielectric grease instead of vaseline ( Vaseline is a petroleum-based mixture of minerals with a melting boil of 38° to 54° C (100° to 130° F) Engine temps surpass this every day Dielectric grease you can get in the 500° C ranges Also if the vaseline touches rubber it does draw out moisture in the rubber And makes it brittle ...Wires, Hoses etc The bus bar : If you are getting to a point that you have more than 2 or 3 wires going to your battery a Bus bar may be what is needed However Why would still need to have the bus bar at the battery? I run a Bus bar box off the side of my fender And run 2 main lines into the battery. I am blown away that Jeep V6 has the battery hook ups facing the Engine
Yep, I always go dialectric grease, and should not have said that Vaseline would work as well. As for the location, this product was conceived because of a problem that Jeepers have been dealing with for decades: minimal space. Wranglers have always been small, but about 15 years ago the engine compartment really got cramped. There's not really room for a traditional marine-style busbar without changing the position of the battery, which just changes which space is eaten up. There will still be a tradeoff that may make it more difficult or near-impossible to (properly) mount a switch system, for instance. Thanks for the comment!
I really love this set up , what kind of lift kit do you have and tire size ? Thank you
It took a number of builds and tweaks to get things dialed for sure. This one has Metalcloak Game Changer 3.5" suspension on 33" tires (Black Rhino Bantam wheels) 👍
NICE INFORMATION SIR LOVE FROM INDIA 🥰😇🙏
That is an awesome awning. Nice video
It's so good I could hang from it...at my twenties weight.
I do like the video , but I do gotta say this wiring looks as messy at the end with the new parts as it did in the beginning Still a neat video 👍🏼
Fair comment, this build has a lot of accessories that require direct-to-battery connection that were installed at different times. If there were room in this engine compartment for a sidewall-mounted marine bus bar, running new wires would be best.
@@OverbuiltAdventure agreed, the “remote location “ blocks are great - Amazon has them fairly inexpensive and you can get them to receive all the way up to a 0 or 2 gauge power wire to keep the connections real strong 💪🏽
Is that an Iceco?
SnoMaster 42L 💙
Good video. I would say excellent video but you left out where you got you bus bar from? Happy Motoring.
😅 You can typically find them for your application at a battery speciality store, but the ones in the video happen to be from Quadratec: www.quadratec.com/products/17004_9001.htm
@@OverbuiltAdventure Thanks Excellent video.
Can you use the busbar on a marine application with a Lifepo4 battery?
In a Marine application you shouldn't be attaching many devices to your battery, regardless of chemistry. For instance if you're using a "drop-in" LiFePO4, you'd still run to a house fuse panel to distribute the loads on individually fused circuits.
After researching every step currently available, I agree, these steps are the best on the market. Your review is also excellent. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and stopping by!
Got the Adventure roof rack system. Do you know where Metalcloak has a PDF on installation? thanks
Just follow the links on the product page for what you ordered, near the bottom. images.metalcloak.com/KMS/Products/R55000-JK-Wrangler-4-Door-Pro-Rack/II-R55000-JK-Wrangler-4Door-Pro-Rack-Installation-Instructions.pdf Or come to Bend, OR and we will install for you!
Awesome. It's hard to find one for a side post battery 🔋
For a side post negative bus you can order side mount terminal from Rockford Fosgate or schoshe. Then connect the bus to that or connect the bus remotely using minimum 8awg .
Nice video. Looking to clean my Jeep engine bay with some bus bars
What roof rack do you have on this Jeep?
Gobi Stealth
That’s what I was thinking, but couldn’t see any of the telltale signs from this vid… Good stuff! I’ve been waffling between these Metalcloak steps and the Smittybuilt Atlas, but I think this video pushed me to a decision toward these Metalcloaks.
@@scottanderson8407 Yeah I really like them. FWIW, if I were buying a new rack today, I'd go with Metalcloak as well. Part of their acquisition of KMS included an adventure rack that is a similar design and strength, but doesn't take 8 months...
Thanks for the great video. I installed these today, super easy and the video helped me prepare. One difference, my kit came with only JK spacers so I didn’t have to identify which is which. Maybe they changed that a bit. I had a couple extra nylon washers too. Tucked them away with the stock hinge bolts in case I need them later.
Glad it was helpful! They should still come with model-specific spacers, more square for the JK and more rounded for the JT/JL. Both spacer styles would work on the JK and protect the paint, there's just a more factory-fit finish on the JK using the square spacer. Definitely hang on to those extra parts! Thanks for stopping by.
hello everyone , i have one question about the busbar , busbar design : why are sometimes more strips needed and sometimes less, on what that does depend? thank you
It depends on the amperage and volts lots of power creates lots of heat. A bus bar allows you to add multiple runs with and without fuses (depending on the need) to one point. With a bar you can have one thick wire coming off the battery and connect two, five, ten or twenty thick wires to the one battery post. Or a very easy connection point for multiple batteries and multiple audio amplifiers. (Done very regularly in high end mega bass vehicles) if all you are doing is adding extra sockets like for charging phones or small led lights, a bus bar will not be needed, in that case you could get by with just a blade fuse block. Hope that helps.
Thank you for the great quality video. Going to be helping my best friend to install these tomorrow. Looking forward to the project. <WB>
When I wear a shirt like the one you're wearing I can see my bare skin between each button. Is that what you meant by calories built in to my frame?
😂
Wish they’d offer the step portion in their signature zinc coating, or whatever gives them the gold look.
That would look great with a few of the JL/JT color options, especially if you're already Cloaked out. I'll kick your suggestion up the ladder.
@@OverbuiltAdventure if you’re doing that, add in blacked out or zinced bolt heads as well. It’s all in the details. Great video.
Where can I buy those terminals and buss bars? I got multiple 1/0 AWG runs for car audio.
Link's in the description, cheers mate!
@@OverbuiltAdventure not seeing the link
hmmm quite worried... torque''ing down the hinge bolts the heads started to strip.. I backed down the torque to 10lbs and slowly increased.. at 12 lbs all heads started to strip ? HELP Please !!!!
They are soft as mentioned, so they will strip before overtorquing. Make sure you're using the right size bit and not a "close enough", that it is fully seated in the bolt head, and that you are not exerting any force off-angle. Also could be that your torque wrench is not precise-many aren't, especially at low torque. An alternative would be to use a T-handle Allen wrench and twisting it snug. 20lbs is pretty close to what you can apply twisting using the long end of those wrenches before the rod of the Allen key itself also begins to twist.
@@OverbuiltAdventure just heard from metla cloak,, because the antiseaze creates a wet-install, it'll drop the torque spec down. They mentioned torque specs s/b 8-10 lbs. Wish this was somewhere in the instructions,, or wish there were some instructions. :)
@@kengeroo Yeah they slide right in! Instructions are available here, I'll add a link in the description as well. images.metalcloak.com/KMS/Products/R60265-MetalCloak-Pro-Step/R60265-Pro-Step-Installation-Instructions.pdf
@@OverbuiltAdventure thx ! - no mention of torque settings though,, I had torque'd mind to about 11-12 lbs before the started to strip the heads.. wondering if I should undo them and re-torque,, the rubber gaskets do look a little squished.
it seems like I have extra washers ???
Yike! One extra of each part is no biggie, they like to give you overages to cover problems/lost parts. Otherwise: Go back to the exploded diagram in the install instructions page 1 and compare to your installed steps. Could be that you skipped a couple in assembly. They are pretty meticulous when shipping out gear, so it's unlikely that they sent multiples of extra parts.
@@OverbuiltAdventure nope -- I ordered 2 kits -- both had incossitent # of parts.. I suppose as long as the nylong washers are where they are supposed to ,, all will be good ?,, it's not like it's drive train. .. correct me if I am wrong.
@@kengeroo I've never had any issues with that, I'd give them a call. You can find the parts list on page 3 of the installation instructions. When we install equipment here, we always take the extra step to separate and itemize the parts on Grypmats. Can save a lot of headaches!
I found it easier in the beginning to lay the step on a table and: insert the outer black plastic gasket first. Place the metal step on, over the outer gaskets. Be sure to get the position correct. Then, using needle-nose pliers, slip the inner gasket over the short, stubby thick bolt on the inside. Nothing ever falls off. Really simple approach. Then, using the same approach with the needle-nose pliers slip on the 'thin' washer. And, finally repeating with the needle-nose, simply place the Nyloc nut over the thread and use the outer head of the bolt to begin the threading.
Needlenose pliers are underrated, good tip!
With that chrome plated shaft exposed will this survive the salt road chemical elements in the NE. ? Curious if anyone has experience with the falcon in salty environment and is it holding up. . Thx.
Teraflex claims: “1,000-hour salt spray corrosion resistance test on all hardware”. There are many types of chrome plating, and a hard chrome is fairly common for piston rods of automotive shocks. You might reach out to Teraflex’s tech team for more info on what plating process they are using and customer experiences in the NE. We are located in the high desert of Central Oregon and they have only recently begun using chemical treatments in limited use (mag chloride, sodium chloride, and a corrosion inhibitor) on our roads so we can’t speak directly from experience here.
@@OverbuiltAdventure first thank you for your speedy reply snd insight. I will definitely reach out to teraflex to get more information on the corrosion side of things. Have a great weekend folks. 🇺🇸
The Epic Family Road Trip is where I first saw these and just had to have them for my JK.
On Gladiator uses a diff bracket to mount. I recently added this on mine and not as much improvement as I had hoped.
Yeah the JT is a different platform, and in our limited experience with them (the aftermarket is still young), they seem better suited for desert than trails. Curious what feeling you had with the JT stock steering that prompted you to reach for this upgrade? Having specific problems?
This is kind cool, Haven;t seen any bus bars with this quality around. Since I couldn't find any, I decided to make them, and I made them so that not event the almighty would be able to destroy them. Here's the link to my video in case anyone wants to buy or see one. kzread.info/dash/bejne/kaCMspl7e7jdlM4.html The only ones I foudn that came close to mine were being sold for $400.
Haha, that's rad, well done mate!
Hoping you can help me out. I want to see if this is compatible with the factory accessory post on my Chev ZR2 which is 6mm. Any way you can measure the post that you connected the busbar to and let me know? Would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Hey there! Yeah this same set should work, the empty accessory post on the JK that these are made for are also 6mm.
🏆🏆🏆👍🇺🇲🙏 Thank you for sharing
Radio Interference from ignition could be snubbed with an inductive coil or a ferrite choke. Aftermarket stereos use them. I did this professionally. It paid well, so I retired and hit the trail. I am trying to figure out how to get one more terminal on my stock Silverado. Having fun here. Great video, man!
Interesting, I'm used to seeing those on certain electronics, hadn't thought about it for in-vehicle radios. Would you need to install one at both ends of the power wire? Does the type that you'd use vary based on the frequency spectrum of the radio system? (GMRS, Ham, CB, etc.). Cheers!
Question, I have a 2014 JK, I recently upgraded d-link, track bar and steer stabilizer. I notice when driving on the freeway, my steering feels stiff and I'm constantly correcting my steering because it feels too stiff. Will this Falcon 2.2 change that?
What size wheels and tires and what lift? Specifics of upgrades so far? Lot of variables involved.
I have 35" tires, 4.5" springs, recently upgraded my track arms to the Teraflex Alpine IR. I'll be changing my springs to the Teraflex Dual rated 4" springs, shocks and speed bumps. My front in, I upgraded the drag link and track bar to Currie. I also had to replace my Synergy ball joints and right now I have a Fox steering stabilizer. One my stock dranklink & trackbar joints wore out, I upgraded everything. After I did that, my Jeep has been super stiff to drive on the hwy. I'm constantly over steering (small corrections). The steering feels tight, which is good, but it seems to be too tight. I had OC Motorsports do the work, when I took it back, they said its normal and I need to drive the vehicle to break it in. Now, I'm at 1 year later and it still drives the same way. These mechanics are idiots.
@@OffRoadOverlandCamping On Medium, the Falcon 2.2 closely matches stock steering stabilization. On High it is very stiff, almost like a sports car. On Soft, it's nice and floaty. Normally you'd only want to drop it down to Soft for off-road, but if it's a personal preference thing, there certainly wouldn't be anything wrong with it. If you haven't already, I'd have an alignment shop give you all of your measurements. It could be that the lift left some OEM parts in your suspension that are negatively impacting your steering. Control arms, etc.
@@0VRLNDR OK thanks for the heads up. I bet the shock they installed is for larger tires. My steers feels like a sports car, but a little tighter. I'm now have Rebel Off-Road do all of my work. I think I'll have them double check the front end to make sure OC Motorsport did the work correctly. I've had my Jeep aligned several times, so I know what is not the issue. I like the concept of Teraflex, everything I've read and the people I talk to that have their products love them. My old lift was AEV 4.5" HD Springs. After I broke a bracket, I wanted to try something new, so I switched to Teraflex to see the difference. I like keeping everything the same do I don't have a lot of mismatched parts.
@@OffRoadOverlandCamping Sorry, replied from the wrong KZread channel, those are our replies. 🤦♂️
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏 Subscribed Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the sub!
the busbar part number??
The one used in this video is Quadratec JK-HDBT12 Extreme Duty Battery Terminals: www.quadratec.com/products/17004_9003.htm For 2011 and lower JKs, it's just JK-HDBT: www.quadratec.com/products/17004_9001.htm
Not 100% but I was sure the Kargo Masters steps separated at the bottom to make them a two piece product. The bolt is under the down tube is it not?
Yeah you're correct, just checked my originals. The new design is still better, IMO, and many other hinge steps out there don't have that feature.
you can also use a small sheet of silicon rubber to cover the battery terminals to prevent contact. Much easier that trying to tuck the pos and neg away.
Having trouble finding the bus bar kit. Unfortunately I drive a non-jeep vehicle. Trying to add bus bars to my GMC savana adventure van. Wondering if the quadratec kit you posted might still work...
As long as you have solid lead terminals instead of stamped steel, you can probably use any manner of brass accessory bar. You may need to pick up some more appropriate bolts from the hardware store if your terminals are threaded differently.
Any concern with leaving the positive terminal connections exposed? I was going to replace both of my basic oem terminals with 6 spot terminals for additional connection points but I don't particularly like the idea of having the positive terminal exposed. Any solution to this? Thanks.
What's your concern, specifically? If it would add peace of mind, you would need to cover it with some non-conductive material. Something like Coax-Seal would probably work, it's pliable and would fit around any shape necessary.
@@0VRLNDR Its peace of mind. Mitigate any possible accidental shorts to ground. I'm probably just being overly cautious.
@@hippo-potamus That's never a bad thing. Let us know what you end up using, maybe we'll do an update.
@@0VRLNDRI saw that he put a washer between connection on the end of the cable and where it makes contact with the brass on the bus bar. Is that ok? And is it ok to do that same thing when connecting to a fuse?
@@joebenham27 Washers just distribute the load of the bolt across the surface instead of just the threads. Good idea any time, or you can use a flange nut to accomplish the same purpose. Not sure what you mean about connecting to a fuse, can you elaborate?
can you open the doors fully with them on?
Yes you can, they do not interfere with the door operation when deployed nor do they risk denting your panels if you open and close a door with the step deployed. That said, I don't think you'd want to step on them with the door open, as it would be like standing on a ladder while someone is moving it. Also if the rear door has the step deployed and is fully open, the front door would clip the end of the step if opened or closed. It would have to be really dark and/or someone really not paying attention for that to happen though. Hope that helps!
Great video, thanks. Just to clarify - if the step is up in the stored position does an open back door interfere with the front door opening or closing?
@@DavidShirley @Overbuilt Adventure I had the same question. Just wondering if when the steps are folded up, are there any worries about someone opening a door too wide and hitting the step against the other door? Specifically, can the back door be open all the way and then open the front door without risk of hitting the step (folded in of course)?
This was perfect thank you for the all in one full on detailed information you provided. This one video answered all my questions and I am sold on these!