The best method is to remove government regulations and regulatory agencies. These devices are dumb, and cause more harm than good, and line pockets of high up people.
@macmad695910 сағат бұрын
Thank you so much, I see your video previously, but returned to it yesterday after the dreaded engine management light, and spanner icon on dashboard, advising me to take my car to a Ford dealer, to get the issue resolved, I crushed up a dishwasher tab, something that I used previously to clear my windscreen washer pipes on my BMW, getting back to the Ford I crushed up 1 tablet to 700ml of warm water, and sprayed into my DPF, I then used a cheap 12v cigarette lighter pump to blow the mixture through, and drove the vehicle for 2 miles, once I turned engine off and on again, the spanner light had gone, and I was able to clear the remaining DPF fault with my Autel scanner, absolutely amazing. Thank You 🎉👊
@daniel.s.stefanov16 сағат бұрын
"I don't think I'll drink another cola in my life" Why? Your guts made of ash and carbon? That's like seeing water rust away metal and going "I'm never drinking water again, see how it corrodes stuff?"
@alumandsvejserv8677Күн бұрын
Hello. I just did this process, but i still get the fault codes even after deleting them. Car is a 2013 fiesta 1.6 TDCi. I have also changed all of the sensors lige dpf pressure sensor, map and maf. Im lost now and going on vacation in the car next Saturday. 🤔😮💨
@StevenBTunerКүн бұрын
Hi, that's a lot of things to change at once, without being sure which one is the issue. Cleaning the DPF with this two stage process will only help with an ash-clogging error. It won't help with other engine related issues that cause soot-clogging or DPF regeneration failure.
@alumandsvejserv867716 сағат бұрын
@@StevenBTuner yeah i know. My friends obd tester said that they where done at different times of course. Not at the same. But now he says that the ecu need to be told that some sensors are changed and that the dpf i cleaned. Im getting that done today, so i hope that will clear the issues
@baims8367Күн бұрын
Those hub /axle nuts 🌰 most all are now just rusted acorn nightmares !! No socket is fitting on those nightmares !
@StevenBTunerКүн бұрын
Some jobs end up being a nightmare! I hope a gas torch and a big hammer get you in the right direction!
@waresbas2 күн бұрын
Great video, thanks!
@StevenBTunerКүн бұрын
Welcome!
@roger4082 күн бұрын
Great vídeo. Thanks !
@StevenBTunerКүн бұрын
Welcome!
@davidelliott58432 күн бұрын
I used a 1/4 drive socket fitted backwards on the extension to clean the injector hole. Find one that’s a good fit. Ideally measure do it’s same diameter as the injector end. I stock on some self adhesive abrasive to clean the metal and lubricated it with WD40. Helps the filings to stick. Vacuum the hole clean, check and redo if necessary.
@StevenBTunerКүн бұрын
Excellent tip!
@28ahmet993 күн бұрын
Hi Steven, do you think it would be more effective and at the same time still safe to use warm/hot warmer with the acid. You said that the Sodium Hydroxide should't be above 100°C but what about the acid. Generally the warmer the quicker the chemical reaction or not?
@StevenBTuner3 күн бұрын
Over the years there have been a few chemists who have commented that it is definitely a good idea to start with hot water to make everything work faster.
@28ahmet993 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner So there is no safety concern with hot acid damaging the silicon carbide like there is with the sodium hydroxide
@hastuart96394 күн бұрын
Good video and explanations, but I would have blanked one end of the DPF and then filled it up with your solutions . I have used plain washing up liquid or soap powder and water for carbon deposits on things like EGR valves and coolers, cylinder head valves, turbocharger gas side components on large marine diesels burning bunker fuel, soap powder rather than detergent is far more effective and has no effect on your hands. Oven cleaner is another strong caustic solution, but would need diluting. If you want to dissolve scale in your kettle, simple malt vinegar works better and cheaper than descalers.
@StevenBTuner4 күн бұрын
Lots of good information!
@alastairwaters91144 күн бұрын
So pool acid is the winner 😊
@StevenBTuner4 күн бұрын
Cheap, effective and available worldwide!
@mr.t25855 күн бұрын
Hi Steven. Very nice and detail video. Did you tested leak off test after injector tips cleaning? Did injector with bigger back flow gets normal value now? And one extra question. If i have correction -2.5, 0.4, 2.5, and 0.6. What injector is bad 3rd or 1st?
@StevenBTuner4 күн бұрын
Hi, if the car is running smoothly with those values then none of them are all that bad. They are only really 'bad' when they can't be corrected for any more.
@user-mn8lz7gf6d5 күн бұрын
I'd like to wash a dpf with a dishwasher tab, do I need to remove the sensors or is it fine to leave them in?
@StevenBTuner3 күн бұрын
Hi, a dishwasher tab won't hurt the sensor, and even the acid 2nd stage has been done by plenty of people where the sensor wouldn't come out, and all was okay.
@user-mn8lz7gf6d3 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for the answer and huge thanks for making all these quality videos. I'm not entirely positive the DPF is paired with a CAT, but I am fairly certain the dishwasher tab wouldn't damage it.
@no-damn-alias6 күн бұрын
Heatgun works for off car regen of a dpf. Ash doesn't burn . Need to fluhlah it out
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Very true!
@no-damn-alias6 күн бұрын
cracked dpf will clear the codes but will be useless.
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Yes, and a lot of cars have cracked DPFs when they get a lot of miles on them.
@jakesmith31356 күн бұрын
A good friend of mine told me years ago to use a dishwasher tablet and hot water he said they used to do it in the DPFS on the machines at the company he used to work for because they only used to run them in low revs so they got blocked quite quickly quite often I thought it was an old wives tale but I guess he weren't lying 😳😳
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Great to know!
@fahrerrrr6 күн бұрын
Thanks.İts amazing.Your car is diesel ?
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Certainly is.
@zaidmalik32736 күн бұрын
In my E90 it was the brake pad wear sensor had broken
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Seems to be a common issue.
@ma61king7 күн бұрын
The best and most reliable solution that you were asking about is to abandon the plastic click-in connections entirely.
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Going full racecar will get rid of the expensive part that wear, but even then you have to check them every so often to make sure you are not losing any boost.
@ma61king4 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner Properly installed hardpipes with correct joiners and clamps don't require any maintenance
@Hari-tt6qf7 күн бұрын
Thank you so much. No BS just straight to the point and clear and simple. Legend. So much faster than re reading the manual especially for someone with dyslexia 😂.
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Glad it helped you out
@Chollanger148-pv8jp7 күн бұрын
Brake cleaner is pretty toxic
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
Hard to avoid toxic things when it comes to working on cars.
@Chollanger148-pv8jp7 күн бұрын
How is the vehicle running while all that fuel is being taken from it?
@StevenBTuner5 күн бұрын
That is fuel that is heading back to the fuel tank, so it isn't missed.
@evandrocluber8 күн бұрын
Good evening friend, great video, including the test of various chemicals from the other video, I'm from Brazil and I have a question about caustic soda and the acid not reacting with the internal components of the catalyst and dpf? since it contains some metals in its composition, thank you!
@StevenBTuner7 күн бұрын
Hi, the caustic soda is okay as long as it doesn't get to boiling temperature. The hydrochloric acid needs to stay no longer than 30 minutes and be diluted to around 7% strength. Strong acids will eat away the metal in the case and also in the catalyser, so you need to rinse out with water and dishwashing liquid for at least 10 minutes at the end of the job to make sure that no acid is left inside.
@evandrocluber7 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner thank you for the tips! mine is at 61% saturation, do you only do this cleaning when it is at 100% saturation or more? Or do you usually clean with less? thanks!
@user-il1nx9bl9z9 күн бұрын
Mine 167 wanted me to schedule service to reset clock ⏰
@StevenBTuner8 күн бұрын
Have to make sure! ;-)
@John-ix3ew9 күн бұрын
Really clear and informative video, took away a lot of the mystique about what can and can't be done to injectors.
@StevenBTuner8 күн бұрын
Glad you got some good information!
@gregjosephson11 күн бұрын
excellent vid.. thank you !
@StevenBTuner11 күн бұрын
Welcome!
@robertsimpson711312 күн бұрын
What brand name of dishwasher tab did you use????????
@StevenBTuner11 күн бұрын
That was the mystery tab that had fallen down the back of the cupboard years earlier... All dishwashing tabs are good for dissolving oily stuff, so it shouldn't make much difference for use as a first stage wash.
@hastuart96394 күн бұрын
I don't suppose it matters.
@icecorner8713 күн бұрын
biltema ❤❤
@StevenBTuner13 күн бұрын
Super!
@raulgonzalez54914 күн бұрын
Hello Steven, I am happy to report that after a second treatment but this time for 24 hr exposure in the DPF cleaning process , my 2014 Porsche Cayenne DPF is back to normal. I just finished testing it and it drives like new again and no more "Check engine/Glow plug" lights. Thank you so much for all your guidance and for saving me at least $7K in total repairs.
@StevenBTuner13 күн бұрын
100% perfect result!
@vendettashoa845514 күн бұрын
Thanks a lot for the large test, tried the dishwasher tabs method and it worked! Good job Man!
@StevenBTuner13 күн бұрын
Glad it helped you out!
@resh429915 күн бұрын
Hi and thank you so much for the vids. I see you haven't made any lately but that you still seem to be answering comments! Think I've read most of the comments but (correct me if I'm wrong) haven't seen anyone pointing to this scientific paper published in 2006 (the abstract: pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16570632/ (can also google the title and find the whole thing)), which seemingly proves that oxalic and citric acid improve catalytic activity, with oxalic being more effective at removing phosphorous and sulfur, and citric being more effective on lead and zinc (+others). And though DPF and catalytic converters are not the same thing, perhaps the best cleaner(s) for a DPF also could be oxalic/citric, or a combo(?) Would love to see a video on this! Either way the paper is an interesting read. (and apologies if it's been pointed to before!)
@StevenBTuner11 күн бұрын
Hi, thanks for pointing that out as I haven't seen that paper before. There might well be a good concentration that can be found that helps out the cat, loosens up the ash as well as cleans up the metal :-) Definitely worth doing some experiments!
@JayMaverick17 күн бұрын
Doing this myself. Funny that a 5l jug of Hydrochloric acid in my country costs 80€. A professional DPF clean costs 300€, suddenly the price starts to make sense.
@StevenBTuner17 күн бұрын
That's some mark-up! I doubt that it costs more €0.80 to produce.
@user-fv3vj4vw4h18 күн бұрын
Is this work on diesel dpf?
@StevenBTuner18 күн бұрын
It certainly does.
@geroutathat16 күн бұрын
the d in dpf actually stands for diesel
@crosseyedone796018 күн бұрын
What did you use to clean the glasses? 😁
@StevenBTuner18 күн бұрын
Haha!
@s.g.475218 күн бұрын
Hello, Steven and thanks for this very useful video. My DPF is together with the catalytic converter in one unit. I have 10% hydrochloric acid - I intend to use it for the cleaning of the ash deposits. Should I do so? Is it the same as using "brick" acid? Will this hydrochloric acid damage the catalytic converter or the dpf? Should I delute the acid?
@StevenBTuner18 күн бұрын
Hi, I would dilute it a bit so that it is around 7% so that it is as safe as possible for the cat, but still do a good job at dissolving the ash.
@thabangrene107219 күн бұрын
After cleaning do you need to test them or just put them back in the car the correct way? Will they calibrate themselves to the correct pressure. I have Delphi injectors from POLO TDI
@StevenBTuner19 күн бұрын
Hi, cleaning them should bring them back closer to the original calibration values.
@thabangrene107219 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner Thanks very I’m on it, much appreciated sir all the way from 🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦
@mamdirar846420 күн бұрын
The best vidéo on youtube. Thank you.
@StevenBTuner19 күн бұрын
Thankyou for watching!
@jz197923 күн бұрын
👍🏻 👌 ✅
@marklouibooc49025 күн бұрын
What you mean for a dishwasher tab? Mean a diswasher cleaning soap?
@StevenBTuner25 күн бұрын
That's right - perfect for cleaning dirty dishes and oily soot!
@Overnity26 күн бұрын
Q: is that real mileage on your front illustration, 317893 Km is around 200,000 miles have you really driven that far !!! in that Car !!! I am astonished... please tell ?
@StevenBTuner25 күн бұрын
Hi, I am in Denmark where the taxes make even old cars stupidly expensive - so keeping a diesel car until around 400,000kms is entirely normal. I would say that after 400,000 it is usually not economically viable to rebuild the engine or swap in a lower km engine, but there are plenty of folk who do and keep these cars going until around 550,000kms. I am now at 365,000 and thinking that it might be time for a change :-)
@user-zm4yg9xv8q26 күн бұрын
Can also use tsp and water solution. Its very good for oily stuff. It will not eat the ceramic either. I would alternate 2 cans of oven cleaner and 2 solutions of tsp. Its a powder, mix it with water, like 2 tbsp per 8oz. Cheap cheap way of doing it i think. It really strips and cleans, it leaves no residue, i think oven cleaner leaves a film of slick stuff sometimes. It would be more ideal to backwash, So i think there is a process where you drill a 1 inch hole, insert a plug that inflates, like a bulb with a pump, that seals engine exhaust from water. Then spray and set for 2 hours, backwash from catalytic split, and repeat it that way 4 times. Would take hose adapter, inflatable plug, and a way to seal the 1 inch hole, welding it up. But, if thats easier than rippin out the garbage factory shit, THEN definetly use the butt plug method. Or the oven cleaner tsp method. Best yet way i think is alternate concentrated sulfuric acid wash and tsp wash giving an hour or 2 for it to sit in and dissolve the crud. Would dilute the stuff before running or regen, and end it with the basic tsp for least amount of corrosion after. Its the most intensive chemical method, high ph swing washing. Or maybe hydrogen peroxide concentrated alternate with tsp would be better too. There should be a test with one removed, in a ultrasonic cleaner to see which one works best.
@StevenBTuner25 күн бұрын
Definitely some good thoughts there! Do you know what is in tsp?
@robertsimpson711312 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner Tri-Sodium Phosphate
@simontist27 күн бұрын
WD-40 isn't very good for rubber belts... Maybe water is safer to test with?
@StevenBTuner27 күн бұрын
I figure that when there is squeaking going on, then the belt is not going to stay on the car regardless.
@simontist27 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner fair point!
@siy823027 күн бұрын
Mines bringing up a different symbol
@StevenBTuner27 күн бұрын
Need a different video perhaps?
@siy823026 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner well mines a 2011 e92 & the symbols more orangey yellow than red so i dunno if that means its less urgent. Anyway it was the oil check symbol that came up on mine & it its 3/4s full. Then i tried it again & it said check ok. So i dunno why the take me to garage symbols comin on at all tbh.
@siy823024 күн бұрын
@StevenBTuner figured it out, got the code of ccid-415 whichs increased battery discharge when stationary which makes sense as the battery symbol had popped up when stopping. Do you reckon that means new battery time?
@StevenBTuner24 күн бұрын
Hi, it could also be that one of the many electronic modules is not going to sleep properly. Checking for fault codes in every module with an OBD2 reader could be a good plan.
@siy823024 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner wish I had one, think just gonna have to take her to the garage
@stephenmunt162428 күн бұрын
I did mine but didn't mark Mt injectors so not shore if I have over tightened them and put them out of calibration
@StevenBTuner27 күн бұрын
I'm not sure they can be over- tightened very easily, so you should be okay I expect.
@rickgray815729 күн бұрын
I have a 2011 Subaru Forester which I bought 2nd hand in 2020 (nearly 4 years ago now). Despite 90% of my driving being on country roads, the instrument panel recently decided to start celebrating Christmas early with a display of various warning lights - including the DPF light. Consequently, I took the car to my "trusted" mechanic near Breadalbane NSW. He tried forcing DPF regens, but couldn't get the soot levels below 61%. He said that my DPF was dead and that I needed a new one (supply and fit > $2k). However, he couldn't tell me what was specifically wrong with my DPF or what was causing the high soot level. He said that the ash level was reporting as only 35% and that the level would have to be much higher that that in a 300K km engine. I told him that I had sent that DPF off for a professional clean only about 80K km prior, so 35% seemed correct to me, but he would not be convinced. He obviously knew better than me and didn't want to enter into any further discussion or diagnosis of cause - he just wanted to know when I wanted him to supply and fit a new DPF to my car. I agreed to disagree with my (now former) mechanic and went looking for ideas from the web. And then I found Steve's video (above). The detail provided by Steve was exceptional and it gave me the confidence to tackle the cleaning of my DPF at home. After buying all the required materials and safety equipment, I started by removing the DPF, flushing it with degreaser to remove as much soot as possible and then followed Steve's instructions to flush the DPF using diluted brick acid followed by a thorough rinse out - I did all of this in a wheelie bin. I reinstalled the DPF and took the car to a different Subi mechanic who reprogrammed the ECU to indicate that a new DPF had been installed (total cost $75). The result is that I have a car that is running as good as new. The fuel consumption is as low or lower than at any time since I bought the car. All I need to do now is find a place to dispose of the used degreaser and acid. So thanks Steve for your time and effort to educate us on how to avoid a costly and unnecessary replacement of a DPF.
@StevenBTuner28 күн бұрын
Great to hear that you didn't buy a new DPF unnecessarily! I am amazed and saddened that there are mechanics out there who don't know the difference between soot clogging and ash clogging... Now that you have a freshly cleaned DPF (and you do country driving) you will probably not have any issues for 3000kms or so. What I mean by this is that something was stopping your DPF from getting to a high enough temperature to regenerate, and that issue may still be there. The most common things that will stop regeneration are: a faulty or clogged EGR valve that won't fully close, a coolant thermostat that is stopping the engine from getting over 75 degrees celcius and on some cars a faulty glow plug will stop regeneration. It is worth checking these things to ensure you have no more DPF issues for a while.
@geroutathat16 күн бұрын
I have heard lots of people get quotes of 2k, but when I ask them their car, and look up the car part, its usually not that expensive. I checked my nearest auto shop, and the subaru forester dpf is on the shelf for 326 euro. I know you might need to get the part shipped etc, but 2k seems excessive, specially considering you were able to take it off yourself to clean... Im not telling you to go out and buy a new one, there is no need for that, but also dont believe those 2k dpf prices you hear about. Those are usually more advandced dpf that you don't actually need, they might be cat 6 and your car is cat 5.
@vossertje100Ай бұрын
Hi 😃 I am driving a BMW 118 D 1 series of 2008. (E87) I have my car now for 11 years and really happy with it. Now for the last two years the DPF signal light always up exactly after 9 minutes when I start the motor. Always after 9 minutes exactly. My car drives normal so no problem there. What do you think this can be? Bad sensor? A yeah I have today 231 000 km and counting. With kind regards Tim
@StevenBTuner29 күн бұрын
Hi, at those kms you are certainly getting to the stage where your DPF is going to be pretty full of ash, so it is definitely time to get it cleaned - or clean it yourself if you don't mind some DIY (see my video: The No Damage DIY DPF Clean). Of course there is always the possibility that there is also a secondary issue like a sensor malfunction, which should also be checked using a good OBD2 reader like the Autel AP200.
@vossertje10028 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner Hi Steven 😃, Thank you for your quick response. Really appreciate it! I scanned my car with the autophix 7900 and found dpf back pressure sensor error. So i will definitely look into that. The truth is that for the last two years my drives are never longer than 20 minutes. So it sounds logical. I will start with going for a real long drive and see from there. Can you advise a certain brand and product for an additive to put in my fuel ⛽️? Or something diy? When the car don’t regenerate after that long drive from itself i can try the forced regeneration with the autophix 7900 (BMW edition). With kind regards, Tim
@StevenBTuner25 күн бұрын
Hi, I'm not familiar with the particular unit - but a lot of them have feature now to force a regeneration. For a forced regen to work you will still need to have working sensors / egr valve / thermostat / glow plugs (depending on model), so you will soon see if there is an issue you need to fix. Almost all of the DPF fuel tank additives will help lower the temperature that the soot burns off, so try the cheapest first ;-)
@lukashubacek4265Ай бұрын
Zdravím já použil na čištění u nás tak zvaný čistič na krbové skla (krbyk) zatím jsme tím cistil chladič výfukových splodin a funguje úžasně za pár euro a jsem zvědavý co udělá s tím dpf.
@StevenBTunerАй бұрын
That would be a great experiment!
@atlit149022 күн бұрын
Zdravím, už jsi vyčistil DPF...?
@mplewpАй бұрын
On older cars 400.000 km and up i mount the lower boost pipes with a little bit of soft tex 7 silicon . Yes its a b!tch to demount afterwards , but its a cheap & cheerful solution . If you have the time for it :) . Darkside development and wagner both make good intercoolers also for bmw .
@StevenBTunerАй бұрын
All good solutions to keep the boost in!
@mplewpАй бұрын
Dreft with hot water does the job too :) .
@StevenBTuner25 күн бұрын
What is dreft?
@YakuzaSubutay24 күн бұрын
@@StevenBTuner Dishwashing soap used for hand cleaning dishes not ment for dishingmachine
@MrFryfishАй бұрын
hello Steve, apparently there is a certain frequency at which the filter of the DPF gets cleaned without affecting the protection surface that the filter is treated that has to remain un-affected. My findings are that the detrimental frequencies would be 20-25 kHz. All other higher frequencies are better tolerated by the filter..
Пікірлер
The best method is to remove government regulations and regulatory agencies. These devices are dumb, and cause more harm than good, and line pockets of high up people.
Thank you so much, I see your video previously, but returned to it yesterday after the dreaded engine management light, and spanner icon on dashboard, advising me to take my car to a Ford dealer, to get the issue resolved, I crushed up a dishwasher tab, something that I used previously to clear my windscreen washer pipes on my BMW, getting back to the Ford I crushed up 1 tablet to 700ml of warm water, and sprayed into my DPF, I then used a cheap 12v cigarette lighter pump to blow the mixture through, and drove the vehicle for 2 miles, once I turned engine off and on again, the spanner light had gone, and I was able to clear the remaining DPF fault with my Autel scanner, absolutely amazing. Thank You 🎉👊
"I don't think I'll drink another cola in my life" Why? Your guts made of ash and carbon? That's like seeing water rust away metal and going "I'm never drinking water again, see how it corrodes stuff?"
Hello. I just did this process, but i still get the fault codes even after deleting them. Car is a 2013 fiesta 1.6 TDCi. I have also changed all of the sensors lige dpf pressure sensor, map and maf. Im lost now and going on vacation in the car next Saturday. 🤔😮💨
Hi, that's a lot of things to change at once, without being sure which one is the issue. Cleaning the DPF with this two stage process will only help with an ash-clogging error. It won't help with other engine related issues that cause soot-clogging or DPF regeneration failure.
@@StevenBTuner yeah i know. My friends obd tester said that they where done at different times of course. Not at the same. But now he says that the ecu need to be told that some sensors are changed and that the dpf i cleaned. Im getting that done today, so i hope that will clear the issues
Those hub /axle nuts 🌰 most all are now just rusted acorn nightmares !! No socket is fitting on those nightmares !
Some jobs end up being a nightmare! I hope a gas torch and a big hammer get you in the right direction!
Great video, thanks!
Welcome!
Great vídeo. Thanks !
Welcome!
I used a 1/4 drive socket fitted backwards on the extension to clean the injector hole. Find one that’s a good fit. Ideally measure do it’s same diameter as the injector end. I stock on some self adhesive abrasive to clean the metal and lubricated it with WD40. Helps the filings to stick. Vacuum the hole clean, check and redo if necessary.
Excellent tip!
Hi Steven, do you think it would be more effective and at the same time still safe to use warm/hot warmer with the acid. You said that the Sodium Hydroxide should't be above 100°C but what about the acid. Generally the warmer the quicker the chemical reaction or not?
Over the years there have been a few chemists who have commented that it is definitely a good idea to start with hot water to make everything work faster.
@@StevenBTuner So there is no safety concern with hot acid damaging the silicon carbide like there is with the sodium hydroxide
Good video and explanations, but I would have blanked one end of the DPF and then filled it up with your solutions . I have used plain washing up liquid or soap powder and water for carbon deposits on things like EGR valves and coolers, cylinder head valves, turbocharger gas side components on large marine diesels burning bunker fuel, soap powder rather than detergent is far more effective and has no effect on your hands. Oven cleaner is another strong caustic solution, but would need diluting. If you want to dissolve scale in your kettle, simple malt vinegar works better and cheaper than descalers.
Lots of good information!
So pool acid is the winner 😊
Cheap, effective and available worldwide!
Hi Steven. Very nice and detail video. Did you tested leak off test after injector tips cleaning? Did injector with bigger back flow gets normal value now? And one extra question. If i have correction -2.5, 0.4, 2.5, and 0.6. What injector is bad 3rd or 1st?
Hi, if the car is running smoothly with those values then none of them are all that bad. They are only really 'bad' when they can't be corrected for any more.
I'd like to wash a dpf with a dishwasher tab, do I need to remove the sensors or is it fine to leave them in?
Hi, a dishwasher tab won't hurt the sensor, and even the acid 2nd stage has been done by plenty of people where the sensor wouldn't come out, and all was okay.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks for the answer and huge thanks for making all these quality videos. I'm not entirely positive the DPF is paired with a CAT, but I am fairly certain the dishwasher tab wouldn't damage it.
Heatgun works for off car regen of a dpf. Ash doesn't burn . Need to fluhlah it out
Very true!
cracked dpf will clear the codes but will be useless.
Yes, and a lot of cars have cracked DPFs when they get a lot of miles on them.
A good friend of mine told me years ago to use a dishwasher tablet and hot water he said they used to do it in the DPFS on the machines at the company he used to work for because they only used to run them in low revs so they got blocked quite quickly quite often I thought it was an old wives tale but I guess he weren't lying 😳😳
Great to know!
Thanks.İts amazing.Your car is diesel ?
Certainly is.
In my E90 it was the brake pad wear sensor had broken
Seems to be a common issue.
The best and most reliable solution that you were asking about is to abandon the plastic click-in connections entirely.
Going full racecar will get rid of the expensive part that wear, but even then you have to check them every so often to make sure you are not losing any boost.
@@StevenBTuner Properly installed hardpipes with correct joiners and clamps don't require any maintenance
Thank you so much. No BS just straight to the point and clear and simple. Legend. So much faster than re reading the manual especially for someone with dyslexia 😂.
Glad it helped you out
Brake cleaner is pretty toxic
Hard to avoid toxic things when it comes to working on cars.
How is the vehicle running while all that fuel is being taken from it?
That is fuel that is heading back to the fuel tank, so it isn't missed.
Good evening friend, great video, including the test of various chemicals from the other video, I'm from Brazil and I have a question about caustic soda and the acid not reacting with the internal components of the catalyst and dpf? since it contains some metals in its composition, thank you!
Hi, the caustic soda is okay as long as it doesn't get to boiling temperature. The hydrochloric acid needs to stay no longer than 30 minutes and be diluted to around 7% strength. Strong acids will eat away the metal in the case and also in the catalyser, so you need to rinse out with water and dishwashing liquid for at least 10 minutes at the end of the job to make sure that no acid is left inside.
@@StevenBTuner thank you for the tips! mine is at 61% saturation, do you only do this cleaning when it is at 100% saturation or more? Or do you usually clean with less? thanks!
Mine 167 wanted me to schedule service to reset clock ⏰
Have to make sure! ;-)
Really clear and informative video, took away a lot of the mystique about what can and can't be done to injectors.
Glad you got some good information!
excellent vid.. thank you !
Welcome!
What brand name of dishwasher tab did you use????????
That was the mystery tab that had fallen down the back of the cupboard years earlier... All dishwashing tabs are good for dissolving oily stuff, so it shouldn't make much difference for use as a first stage wash.
I don't suppose it matters.
biltema ❤❤
Super!
Hello Steven, I am happy to report that after a second treatment but this time for 24 hr exposure in the DPF cleaning process , my 2014 Porsche Cayenne DPF is back to normal. I just finished testing it and it drives like new again and no more "Check engine/Glow plug" lights. Thank you so much for all your guidance and for saving me at least $7K in total repairs.
100% perfect result!
Thanks a lot for the large test, tried the dishwasher tabs method and it worked! Good job Man!
Glad it helped you out!
Hi and thank you so much for the vids. I see you haven't made any lately but that you still seem to be answering comments! Think I've read most of the comments but (correct me if I'm wrong) haven't seen anyone pointing to this scientific paper published in 2006 (the abstract: pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16570632/ (can also google the title and find the whole thing)), which seemingly proves that oxalic and citric acid improve catalytic activity, with oxalic being more effective at removing phosphorous and sulfur, and citric being more effective on lead and zinc (+others). And though DPF and catalytic converters are not the same thing, perhaps the best cleaner(s) for a DPF also could be oxalic/citric, or a combo(?) Would love to see a video on this! Either way the paper is an interesting read. (and apologies if it's been pointed to before!)
Hi, thanks for pointing that out as I haven't seen that paper before. There might well be a good concentration that can be found that helps out the cat, loosens up the ash as well as cleans up the metal :-) Definitely worth doing some experiments!
Doing this myself. Funny that a 5l jug of Hydrochloric acid in my country costs 80€. A professional DPF clean costs 300€, suddenly the price starts to make sense.
That's some mark-up! I doubt that it costs more €0.80 to produce.
Is this work on diesel dpf?
It certainly does.
the d in dpf actually stands for diesel
What did you use to clean the glasses? 😁
Haha!
Hello, Steven and thanks for this very useful video. My DPF is together with the catalytic converter in one unit. I have 10% hydrochloric acid - I intend to use it for the cleaning of the ash deposits. Should I do so? Is it the same as using "brick" acid? Will this hydrochloric acid damage the catalytic converter or the dpf? Should I delute the acid?
Hi, I would dilute it a bit so that it is around 7% so that it is as safe as possible for the cat, but still do a good job at dissolving the ash.
After cleaning do you need to test them or just put them back in the car the correct way? Will they calibrate themselves to the correct pressure. I have Delphi injectors from POLO TDI
Hi, cleaning them should bring them back closer to the original calibration values.
@@StevenBTuner Thanks very I’m on it, much appreciated sir all the way from 🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦
The best vidéo on youtube. Thank you.
Thankyou for watching!
👍🏻 👌 ✅
What you mean for a dishwasher tab? Mean a diswasher cleaning soap?
That's right - perfect for cleaning dirty dishes and oily soot!
Q: is that real mileage on your front illustration, 317893 Km is around 200,000 miles have you really driven that far !!! in that Car !!! I am astonished... please tell ?
Hi, I am in Denmark where the taxes make even old cars stupidly expensive - so keeping a diesel car until around 400,000kms is entirely normal. I would say that after 400,000 it is usually not economically viable to rebuild the engine or swap in a lower km engine, but there are plenty of folk who do and keep these cars going until around 550,000kms. I am now at 365,000 and thinking that it might be time for a change :-)
Can also use tsp and water solution. Its very good for oily stuff. It will not eat the ceramic either. I would alternate 2 cans of oven cleaner and 2 solutions of tsp. Its a powder, mix it with water, like 2 tbsp per 8oz. Cheap cheap way of doing it i think. It really strips and cleans, it leaves no residue, i think oven cleaner leaves a film of slick stuff sometimes. It would be more ideal to backwash, So i think there is a process where you drill a 1 inch hole, insert a plug that inflates, like a bulb with a pump, that seals engine exhaust from water. Then spray and set for 2 hours, backwash from catalytic split, and repeat it that way 4 times. Would take hose adapter, inflatable plug, and a way to seal the 1 inch hole, welding it up. But, if thats easier than rippin out the garbage factory shit, THEN definetly use the butt plug method. Or the oven cleaner tsp method. Best yet way i think is alternate concentrated sulfuric acid wash and tsp wash giving an hour or 2 for it to sit in and dissolve the crud. Would dilute the stuff before running or regen, and end it with the basic tsp for least amount of corrosion after. Its the most intensive chemical method, high ph swing washing. Or maybe hydrogen peroxide concentrated alternate with tsp would be better too. There should be a test with one removed, in a ultrasonic cleaner to see which one works best.
Definitely some good thoughts there! Do you know what is in tsp?
@@StevenBTuner Tri-Sodium Phosphate
WD-40 isn't very good for rubber belts... Maybe water is safer to test with?
I figure that when there is squeaking going on, then the belt is not going to stay on the car regardless.
@@StevenBTuner fair point!
Mines bringing up a different symbol
Need a different video perhaps?
@@StevenBTuner well mines a 2011 e92 & the symbols more orangey yellow than red so i dunno if that means its less urgent. Anyway it was the oil check symbol that came up on mine & it its 3/4s full. Then i tried it again & it said check ok. So i dunno why the take me to garage symbols comin on at all tbh.
@StevenBTuner figured it out, got the code of ccid-415 whichs increased battery discharge when stationary which makes sense as the battery symbol had popped up when stopping. Do you reckon that means new battery time?
Hi, it could also be that one of the many electronic modules is not going to sleep properly. Checking for fault codes in every module with an OBD2 reader could be a good plan.
@@StevenBTuner wish I had one, think just gonna have to take her to the garage
I did mine but didn't mark Mt injectors so not shore if I have over tightened them and put them out of calibration
I'm not sure they can be over- tightened very easily, so you should be okay I expect.
I have a 2011 Subaru Forester which I bought 2nd hand in 2020 (nearly 4 years ago now). Despite 90% of my driving being on country roads, the instrument panel recently decided to start celebrating Christmas early with a display of various warning lights - including the DPF light. Consequently, I took the car to my "trusted" mechanic near Breadalbane NSW. He tried forcing DPF regens, but couldn't get the soot levels below 61%. He said that my DPF was dead and that I needed a new one (supply and fit > $2k). However, he couldn't tell me what was specifically wrong with my DPF or what was causing the high soot level. He said that the ash level was reporting as only 35% and that the level would have to be much higher that that in a 300K km engine. I told him that I had sent that DPF off for a professional clean only about 80K km prior, so 35% seemed correct to me, but he would not be convinced. He obviously knew better than me and didn't want to enter into any further discussion or diagnosis of cause - he just wanted to know when I wanted him to supply and fit a new DPF to my car. I agreed to disagree with my (now former) mechanic and went looking for ideas from the web. And then I found Steve's video (above). The detail provided by Steve was exceptional and it gave me the confidence to tackle the cleaning of my DPF at home. After buying all the required materials and safety equipment, I started by removing the DPF, flushing it with degreaser to remove as much soot as possible and then followed Steve's instructions to flush the DPF using diluted brick acid followed by a thorough rinse out - I did all of this in a wheelie bin. I reinstalled the DPF and took the car to a different Subi mechanic who reprogrammed the ECU to indicate that a new DPF had been installed (total cost $75). The result is that I have a car that is running as good as new. The fuel consumption is as low or lower than at any time since I bought the car. All I need to do now is find a place to dispose of the used degreaser and acid. So thanks Steve for your time and effort to educate us on how to avoid a costly and unnecessary replacement of a DPF.
Great to hear that you didn't buy a new DPF unnecessarily! I am amazed and saddened that there are mechanics out there who don't know the difference between soot clogging and ash clogging... Now that you have a freshly cleaned DPF (and you do country driving) you will probably not have any issues for 3000kms or so. What I mean by this is that something was stopping your DPF from getting to a high enough temperature to regenerate, and that issue may still be there. The most common things that will stop regeneration are: a faulty or clogged EGR valve that won't fully close, a coolant thermostat that is stopping the engine from getting over 75 degrees celcius and on some cars a faulty glow plug will stop regeneration. It is worth checking these things to ensure you have no more DPF issues for a while.
I have heard lots of people get quotes of 2k, but when I ask them their car, and look up the car part, its usually not that expensive. I checked my nearest auto shop, and the subaru forester dpf is on the shelf for 326 euro. I know you might need to get the part shipped etc, but 2k seems excessive, specially considering you were able to take it off yourself to clean... Im not telling you to go out and buy a new one, there is no need for that, but also dont believe those 2k dpf prices you hear about. Those are usually more advandced dpf that you don't actually need, they might be cat 6 and your car is cat 5.
Hi 😃 I am driving a BMW 118 D 1 series of 2008. (E87) I have my car now for 11 years and really happy with it. Now for the last two years the DPF signal light always up exactly after 9 minutes when I start the motor. Always after 9 minutes exactly. My car drives normal so no problem there. What do you think this can be? Bad sensor? A yeah I have today 231 000 km and counting. With kind regards Tim
Hi, at those kms you are certainly getting to the stage where your DPF is going to be pretty full of ash, so it is definitely time to get it cleaned - or clean it yourself if you don't mind some DIY (see my video: The No Damage DIY DPF Clean). Of course there is always the possibility that there is also a secondary issue like a sensor malfunction, which should also be checked using a good OBD2 reader like the Autel AP200.
@@StevenBTuner Hi Steven 😃, Thank you for your quick response. Really appreciate it! I scanned my car with the autophix 7900 and found dpf back pressure sensor error. So i will definitely look into that. The truth is that for the last two years my drives are never longer than 20 minutes. So it sounds logical. I will start with going for a real long drive and see from there. Can you advise a certain brand and product for an additive to put in my fuel ⛽️? Or something diy? When the car don’t regenerate after that long drive from itself i can try the forced regeneration with the autophix 7900 (BMW edition). With kind regards, Tim
Hi, I'm not familiar with the particular unit - but a lot of them have feature now to force a regeneration. For a forced regen to work you will still need to have working sensors / egr valve / thermostat / glow plugs (depending on model), so you will soon see if there is an issue you need to fix. Almost all of the DPF fuel tank additives will help lower the temperature that the soot burns off, so try the cheapest first ;-)
Zdravím já použil na čištění u nás tak zvaný čistič na krbové skla (krbyk) zatím jsme tím cistil chladič výfukových splodin a funguje úžasně za pár euro a jsem zvědavý co udělá s tím dpf.
That would be a great experiment!
Zdravím, už jsi vyčistil DPF...?
On older cars 400.000 km and up i mount the lower boost pipes with a little bit of soft tex 7 silicon . Yes its a b!tch to demount afterwards , but its a cheap & cheerful solution . If you have the time for it :) . Darkside development and wagner both make good intercoolers also for bmw .
All good solutions to keep the boost in!
Dreft with hot water does the job too :) .
What is dreft?
@@StevenBTuner Dishwashing soap used for hand cleaning dishes not ment for dishingmachine
hello Steve, apparently there is a certain frequency at which the filter of the DPF gets cleaned without affecting the protection surface that the filter is treated that has to remain un-affected. My findings are that the detrimental frequencies would be 20-25 kHz. All other higher frequencies are better tolerated by the filter..
That's some good information to know!