Пікірлер

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  @xXKisskerXx10 күн бұрын

  While everyone thinks the aluminum plate method can still work with some 'prep' like painters tape on top - the question then becomes, how reusable will it be? a tear in the tape means replacement, and the aluminum is going to be a heat sink for the incoming plastic. The PETG system seems like it is working well, and won't need as much effort to replace tape all the time. So sure, you could use some glue stick and warm the aluminum up before inserting and printing on top - and even changing the print speed at those first 2-3 layers on top of the aluminum plate, to treat it like a second bed.... but that seems like more hassle than just a PETG insert. Which for those that don't know, PETG doesn't really like to stick to anything but itself, so PLA is pretty much always gonna pop right off. PETG will absorb less heat than aluminum as well, allowing for less finnicky needs to texture or slow down to ensure the layer is going down smooth. And best of all, if a PETG plate does get ruined somehow... it's easy to just print another. (unlike a bent or marred aluminum plate)

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz10 күн бұрын

  I also think you are right. By now I have four petg plates in use and all of them have been reused several times. Although I expect warping at some point, it hasn't happened yet. I briefly considered making a part 2 of the video, but I think using a reusable petg plate is the easiest solution in practice. The tip, printing the recessed front section separately and putting it in some sort of frame at the pause, would certainly also be a possibility. But this is more complex because then there will be two print runs and one will have to experiment with the degree of overprinting after the break to sufficiently anchor the inserted plate. An additional problem is that I make many versions of these fronts, each with its own hole pattern and often print several at once. This then becomes quite an administration as to where which plate (and in what orientation!) the plates should be inserted, unless the locking edge only needs to be small.

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  @joell43913 күн бұрын

  👍👍😎👍👍

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  @enyoc3d13 күн бұрын

  after that buildup, it's very disappointing to not see comments about the music 😎. great technique!

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz13 күн бұрын

  Haha, indeed! And also no comments yet about the text scrolling by too fast or other completely unrelated issues (as with many previous videos of mine). All meaningful comments so far! A new record! Thanks! 😁

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  @Smokinjoewhite13 күн бұрын

  I found that using aluminium or steel inserts with PLA that glue stick is the best thing to use, letting the insert heat up a little before printing also helps. PETG however is the perfect support material for PLA and you can print the insert to ensure it is the perfect size for your final part.

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  @peterkn213 күн бұрын

  I think your attempt using that metal piece might still work with some preparations. When I use the stop at layer height to insert magnets into my prints, I do a few things first: 1) use gluestick on the magnet's side that will be printed on 2) put the magnet on the heated plate before they're needed (to heat them up a bit) and 3) slow the printer down on that first layer. I've had decent success using these preparations. Your idea to use PETG with PLA is really good for doing that recessed printing. I think that's probably the best way since the PETG has good texture to temporarily bond to. For anyone unaware, PETG does not bond well to PLA and vice versa so you can use either to support the other.

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  @gruvinnz14 күн бұрын

  Reusable! I love it. All this time I have been using a very wasteful multi-filament changer (purge waste) and trashing the PETG part every time! Duh. Thanks!

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  @peverington14 күн бұрын

  Nice video. I’ll try to remember these techniques for when I need them. Just a thought … Spray mount glue for your printed front plates might be easier to apply than the manually applied glue you use.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  Possibly... Spraying on the lid does require some masking, and if you spray the paper fronts from behind, the glue might bleed through the holes? But with the recessed areas now smooth, it might be a good idea. In the movie, I still glue the "old" fronts (printed with removed support material) in place. These have a fairly coarse surface. I'm also using a contact adhesive, which in theory makes what I'm doing (only smearing only one surface) not perfect anyway. However, I was mainly trying to use the filling properties of the glue a bit with those fronts. Further: there are obviously very few forces on the glued-in faceplate once it is glued on the recessed area. It is really only to hold it in place a bit during assembly. But, thanks for your tip!👍

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  @kylek2914 күн бұрын

  For the insert, you could try the aluminum plate and put some blue painters tape on top. That used to be how you'd get a lot of filaments to stick before as it provides a slight-textured surface and can be peeled off after.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  Okay, never tried that. Good tip! The PETG printed plates are however easier to make (on different heights). I think I'll stick (no pun intended) to that until I find out that they may e.g. warp after being used a few times. Aluminum may then perhaps be the better choice. We'll see! Thanks!

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  @barrazao1213 күн бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz in addition to what @kylek29 has said, i think "preheating" the metal insert might help so that the next layer of pla doesn't cool too rapidly. i have worked in a 3d printing factory with blue painters tape on the bed and no bed heat at all and it was quite crazy how good the pla stuck to the blue painters tape.

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  @doukasphatskool936414 күн бұрын

  bravo!!

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  @nosenseofhumor114 күн бұрын

  Since you’re printing a lot of them, consider creating a stack of 10 connected in maybe 6 places that you can easily clip from the sides and short enough that your printer can easily bridge. Then print the whole set on a side.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  I understand your idea of the stack to give it enough support on the bed at all. And it is in itself a tantalizing idea good to see if indeed you cannot print such a lid standing up (with less or no support material). But I don't think you can, because in this particular case you will have to support the screw legs all the way from the bed, for example, right?

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  @nosenseofhumor114 күн бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz chamfer the legs such that there’s no direct 90 deg overhang and you’re good!

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  @@nosenseofhumor1 See what you mean. Thanx for the idea!

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  @Teckstudio14 күн бұрын

  Excellent video with some good points! So far I mostly used the variant where you split in half and later glue on the "frame". This never really works well without guideance. 😥 Your idea with the PETG "spacer" is great, I will try out this the next time. Also, what @chipcode5538 suggested sounds even better ... a shame I didn't come up with that myself! 🤩

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  @gorgonbert14 күн бұрын

  Cool idea… thanks for sharing 🙏

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  @chipcode553814 күн бұрын

  Hi, whizz bizz. Try the following, I did it in the past and it works like magic. Design your part as two separate prints. Print the plate first. Stop the print at the correct point and drop in the plate. Let the print finish. Now it looks like you printed the plate in mid air.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  Maybe I don't quite understand what you mean. The border around it is quite thin, but you could print a thin frame in here that you could then put a pre-printed (recessed) front in during a printer stop, but then you would have to overprint it with at least a few layers before that is fixed, right? After all, on the back side there are also the screw tubes.... With a (universal, reusable) plate, you can print the front, except for the temporary stop, in one go.

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  @chipcode553814 күн бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz Yes this is exactly that I used, like a picture frame, put in the plate and print the remaining parts on top.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  @@chipcode5538 Although it is not simple to do in the slicer and requires modification of your STL files, it is certainly a good idea. I guess in this case (thin edge) I would then overprint at least half the thickness of the deeper (then floating) part after the stop to properly embed the support plate into the print?

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  @PeterPetermann14 күн бұрын

  if you use petg to support pla or pla to support petg, it will separate quite easy

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  Exactly, you can of course use this method even if you can change filament while printing. PETG easily detaches from PLA, while the PLA still has good adhesion during printing.

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  @rsmeaton14 күн бұрын

  I have some experience putting metal parts into 3d prints, and a little gluestick on the top surface of your aluminum will help immensely with adhesion. EDIT: Wrote this before watching the whole video and yeah, PETG works a lot better. But if you ever need to insert a metal part. Glue stick is what got me the best results

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz14 күн бұрын

  Sounds great. However, my experiences with glue stick were the complete opposite. I experimented with it once when PETG just wouldn't come off the printer bed. Just to reduce adhesion! It took a very thorough cleaning of my printer bed plate before I could print on it somewhat normally with PLA again.

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  @ravanwijk15 күн бұрын

  Fantastic video! Ha ha .... you're definitely not the only one experimenting with this! There is a second Dutch guy working this! My approach is a little different bij printing the border on the box rather than the faceplate. Still work in progress but already some nice results. Keep up the experimenting 🙂

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz15 күн бұрын

  Thanx. Yep, I've seen your results and they are great! I think this 45x75mm 'Silberling' is an excellent test case (no pun intented) for this. The protruding edge around is quite slim and you're forced to be creative because there are screw feet behind on one side of the recessed panel. Keep me posted about your ideas and results!

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  @i_love_yura23 күн бұрын

  clever

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  @Patricvideos26 күн бұрын

  The gray Motors need 6Volts max

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  @Patricvideos26 күн бұрын

  13:55 there a documentation from the early 70s / late 60s from fischertechnik and it even wasn't like this format

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz26 күн бұрын

  Don't understand what you mean, I fear.... Do you refer to a moment in the video?

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  @Patricvideos26 күн бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz yes indeed the construction Part putting the circuit in the box

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  @acs-system64522 ай бұрын

  It is 6,8volts and bellow to 6 volts

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  @Visualmotionpro3 ай бұрын

  This is amazing!

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  @Nagermax3 ай бұрын

  Which Fischertechnik kit did you use?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz3 ай бұрын

  None, only the basic elements. I do still think it would be a great idea for fischertechnik to make a kit like this. I can help :-)

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  @Nagermax3 ай бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz That would be a great idea. Do you have instructions on which parts to use? Thanks again for the video. Been looking for something like this!

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz3 ай бұрын

  @@Nagermax Don't have a complete list, but the seperate parts are quite easy to find on sites that sell the seperate parts. Only thing I made myself is the slider-bridge: www.printables.com/model/317251-slider-gatebridge-stone-for-fischertechnik

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  @paulcottington4 ай бұрын

  Hello Enjoying your KZread videos. Was wondering are the any plans to translate the book to english?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz4 ай бұрын

  I know the authors personally, but I am not one of them 😁 What I know from it, is that the publisher does not (yet) think there is a market for that. Perhaps you can ask them and let them know your potential interest: dpunkt.de/produkt/bauen-erleben-begreifen-fischertechnik-roboter-mit-arduino/

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  @lsfrare4 ай бұрын

  I want to buy one of these resistance boxes to use it in the 0.1R and 1R ranges. Are they accurate? The AliExpress page claims that the product has 1% precision (I hardly doubt)

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz4 ай бұрын

  Hmm, in these lower ranges your testleads may have more resistance, I fear. The specs they give, are just the specs of the SMD components. With the C-decade the lowest banks are not very useful because the default capacitance was already 40pF. So I think their main use is in the higher ranges. But hey, they're very cheap and might save you a lot of breadboard-plugging when experimenting 😀

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  @givenfirstnamefamilyfirstn39355 ай бұрын

  Thanks.

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  @kopodgorski5 ай бұрын

  Beautiful journey from planning through concept, design and build phases! Thank you!

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  @avichalid56045 ай бұрын

  Do you have a link to the R and C decade board?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz5 ай бұрын

  I found them when searching on 'programmable decade box' on e.g. AliExpress

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  @youtubeviewer70776 ай бұрын

  Neat idea. Your background music sounds like the soundtrack to a sex scene from an 80's movie.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz6 ай бұрын

  You got me… Electronics is my second carreer…. 😂 (Actually it's more probably from a 'Sax' scene, perhaps?)

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  @aurigo_tech9 ай бұрын

  If signals are not defined by their left or right position, but by the fact if they are "in" or "out" then some of these mechanisms get even simpler. Like the inverter could just be a straight rod? Pushed in on the input side (0) - pushed out the output (1). Pulled out on input side (1) - pulled in on output side (0).

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz9 ай бұрын

  Absolutely right, but of course a straight rod does experience sliding resistance and so, even if we were to call it a buffer instead of an inverter, it would be of little use mechanically. So yes, you can simplify a lot with the relationship between logic level and direction, but as soon as you want to compose more complex functions from multiple mechanical logic gates like this, the inputs and outputs will have to follow the same convention. You can then only make it work by including inverters on the inputs or outputs, and I would see those mechanically as part of the logic gate.

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  @flying-birdsproduction24179 ай бұрын

  Hi, for some reason after every dialing it won't play the song and the message comes: DFPlayer: Time Out! But the dial tone plays when I pick up the hook.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz9 ай бұрын

  I think I got the error message too. Probably SoftwareSerial is just not that fast and the MP3 module works fine (dial tone!). You can (depending on the version of your library) try adding 'false' to the .begin(): myDFPlayer.begin(mySoftwareSerial, false) in the test at the beginning. One problem is that the player board does not have a reset, so you really have to disconnect the power supply every time to reset it. The fact that there is no music could be due to your directory layout on the SD card. The music must be in numbered subdirectories. Good luck!

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  @willslingwood10 ай бұрын

  This is exactly what I need for a project I’m working on! I had the idea and thought I’d never find a KZread tutorial… but here it is! Thank you!

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz10 ай бұрын

  Thanks! I'm currently developing a modulair 'Retrophone Switchboard', so you can also use telephones with push buttons. For more info, stay tuned to my channel (various movies are planned), or take a look at www.whizzbizz.com/en/retrophone-switchboard-for-vintage-telephones

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  @willslingwood9 ай бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizzamazing! I’m a visual artist from Ireland, trying my hand at electrickery for a project I’m working on. This will all help me so much, dankjewel!

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  @philiparnaudov900110 ай бұрын

  the 2 unused connections are the spi bus, given 2 outputs by Arduino, basically analog 4 and 5

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz10 ай бұрын

  Yep, SCL and SDA. For this project they are not necessary...

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  @benjaminparker504410 ай бұрын

  This video was amazing, and very informative. Everything was very well explained and demonstrated.

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  @derwastl11 ай бұрын

  Cool Video, I was thinking about to Build a Full adder with fischertechnik!

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz11 ай бұрын

  I know that there are more people that tried to make combined functions, but the plain mechanical 'fan-out' is <1, so cascading outputs to inputs is a challenge. You might of course, try to use height energy (gravity: e.g. rolling balls, strings with weights, etc) or loaded mechanical force (springs or elastic bands, etc) in some way? Keep me posted! 🧐

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  @Jerseylance111 ай бұрын

  Nice video, but what about controlling servos?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz11 ай бұрын

  The joystick just sends an analog value between 0 and 1024. You might take a look at a Sketch that includes the "Servo.h" library and/or use an Adafruit MotorShield like the one in my other video kzread.info/dash/bejne/oqSB0NqtcqnXZtI.html to make the servo move on the receiving end.

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  @fischertechnik-seilbahn Жыл бұрын

  This guy is incredible creaticve and energizing. Thanks for your surprize and the great figgures.

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  @jgfishz1zz1 Жыл бұрын

  Interesting, haven't seen Fischertecnik in about 25 years when I played with them when I was young

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  I was also surprised when I discovered that it is still being made (for me several years ago). I played with it a lot in the 1970s and 1980s, and now many 'Makers' use it for prototyping and product development because it has significant 'industrial' advantages over eg Lego Technic.

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  @jgfishz1zz1 Жыл бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz yeah I found it a lot of fun as a child, the novelty of motorizing things was really cool. Seems lego did not do it till later on though I could be wrong. It was a simpler and quicker system for building models.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  @@jgfishz1zz1 Lego Technic indeed came later and Lego has now stopped with its 'Mindstorms', while fischertechnik has always embraced automation and electronics over the years.

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  @jgfishz1zz1 Жыл бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz I remember mindstorms now from computer class

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  @hmwgoossens Жыл бұрын

  Hi, nice silberlins, but where did you get the 3.5 bushes for the connectors?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  You mean the '2.5mm' connection sockets? I think I already answered to that by mail last week? Yep, I'm the same 'Arnoud' 😁These sockets are 12mm, M3 'Hollow Rivets' from China, that I widened to 2.5mm after melting them into the 3D printed front. Will make a page (perhaps a video) about the solutions for fischertechnik sockets I've come up with so far. Let me experiment with one recent 'discovery', then I'll post it here or on whizzbizz.com, ok?

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  @mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

  Great project! One could use the various synchronous motors that Rüdiger, me and some others developed in the past years.

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  @mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

  By the way, I like the way you implemented the surface mirrors into the fischertechnik universe very much.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  You mean with a controller that is able to make different AC-frequencies in order to play with the different rpm ratios? For the Rose-figures (where a mirror could be mounted directly) this will do, but perhaps the torque will not be sufficient...? Another thing is that they need to be started manually and that you need really nice sinus-waves (no PWM or block from a TXT-/micro-controller) to do the Lissajous figures (my next stop). I thought up a solution for this, but this is still in the experimental phase 🧐

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  @@mathmeetsmachines Thanks, not really 100% necessary to have a 3D printer. (Although, let me know if you need some) I simply glued my first test mirrors onto an axle with a glue gun. But with the heavier optical mirrors I found this too dangerous. It would also be a shame if they flew off and broke.

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  @mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz My idea was to supply the synchronous motors with the AC current from an AC to AC converter at 50 Hz. The frequency ratio is given by the ratio of the number of the magnets. Like in my Telharmonium you can build several rotors on one axle and shift the electromagnet to drive one of them. When I did my experiments, unfortunately this natural idea did not come to my mind.

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  @mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

  I would guess that the torque of my original synchronous motor suffices to drive a 1:4 transmitted axle (turns faster).

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  @Johannes00 Жыл бұрын

  Eeeeugh! IEC gates?? Horrible!

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  Haha, when fischertechnik introduced the ports in the 1970s, they did indeed use the IEC notation. But even during my own training, in the 1980s, these were still widely used. And actually I like them. As you can see, I now use IEC and DIN interchangeably. That is of course not good at all, but what matters to me is that it is understandable in retrospect 🤔

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  @benjaminparker504410 ай бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz I can't read them 😂 Edit: after seeing the mechanical gates I was able to understand them better

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  @tonoreyes7077 Жыл бұрын

  se puede utilizar el bluetooth HC-06 y el puente H L298P

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  Let me translate, you're saying "HC-06 bluetooth and L298P H-bridge can be used". That's great!

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  @tonoreyes7077 Жыл бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz yes

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  @mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

  The 3D printed Z50 is very nice. I made a Z25 and a variety of other gears from cardbord more than 10 years. This works surprisingly well, but 3D printed gears are even nicer, of course.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  I saw it in your ft:pedia 1/2012 article about that ('Zahnrad.eps'). Keep an eye on the next ft:pedia for details about my workflow for 3D printed gears 🙂

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  @mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

  Very nice video! The lever does not put energy into the gate. That is a noticable difference to the transistor in electronic gates.

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  @stekarenhd6911 Жыл бұрын

  This is so cool, I wish I understood what was going on so I could make a phone like this play an album

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  @benjamin.schreiber Жыл бұрын

  Great video, thanks a lot! 👏 In KZread app on my iPhone I can select subtitles and then „auto-translate“ which works very well for me! 👌

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  @TheDesiboyz12345 Жыл бұрын

  can this be used to pick up phone, play a beep and for people to record messages on the phone and then have those recordings be transferred to mp3 device

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  Not yet, because this was not what I intented to make. There is no recording facility yet, so it's only a player, not a recoding device.This can be done I think, but it needs quite a redesign.

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  @seanseal6265 Жыл бұрын

  Bro thats cool

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  @victorvillalvazo3095 Жыл бұрын

  Hello whizbizz I have a question about the library, where is located?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  Just follow the link on the project page www.whizzbizz.com/en/joystick.nrf24 under "The Arduino Sketch for the joystick shield". May also be within regular Arduino library management. Good luck!

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  @BHARGAV_GAJJAR Жыл бұрын

  Can you make something if one is stuck other can lower the output ?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  Not sure what you mean (talking about these 100% theoretical mechanical gates?), but this sounds as an OR function.

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  @rukoscgki1382 Жыл бұрын

  Hi, i can't seem to get it dial to the specific file number or subfolder. i still don't understand how to manage the folder naming. it just wont play any songs inside the folder i created. do i need to insert the bash script somewhere?

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  T65 or GPO746? The script is only to be used when you put your files on the SD-card. It only changes filenames. After use the subdirectories have names like '01', '02', '03', etc. The sound files will then be named '01.wav', '02.wav', etc. in each folder. I suggest that you set if (0) to if (1) in the Sketch to get some logging to your serial monitor and debug what's going on. Probably your SD-card is not accessable or the directory-structure is not recognized. Are you sure the sound files have the right codec? Good luck!

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  @rukoscgki1382 Жыл бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz im using T65. i did all the wiring as shown on diagram, when i pickup the hook a music starts as expected. however, as i dial the number, the music stops and it doesn't play any music on the files. i did the foldering as instructed

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  @@rukoscgki1382 Your wiring should be ok if you hear (the first, or only) sound-file in the root of your SD-card. I have a 'dialtone' sound there. Are you sure you do NOT have any hidden (probably non-sound) files in your directories and that your audio-codec of these files is ok? You could test that by putting them in the root temporary. The bash script also removes hidden files (filename starting with a dot). Please check your directory-structure and contents form a commandline terminal?

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  @rukoscgki1382 Жыл бұрын

  @@arnoud-whizzbizz yes i have tried using wav and mp3, my files is as follow, Folder name is: "01" and so on, inside is all the files named 01.wav. ah yes a question, how can i use the bash script? i have no clue on how to use that for.

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  @arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

  @@rukoscgki1382 I only made the bash-script (that ONLY runs on Linux, Unix or under MacOS X in a terminal) to copy my original music-files (with full, describing, filenames) to the more cryptical 0.wav, 1.wav etc filenames that are used on the SD-card. So if you already arranged all that by hand.... you may forget about the script. I suggest that you add some logging and TEST if the file could be played by the module. I have converted ALL (by hand via an app called 'Switch Audio Converter') to WAV mono 22kHz 8 bits.