In this channel, you'll tag along with me as build things like trailers and trucks, Hot Rods, Custom wiring harnesses etc. There is no limit to what I'll get into in the shop. Hope you enjoy!
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Why does the one you linked show over the axel next to leaf springs?
Thanks for watching Christian. Interesting. If you look at the first 5 pictures in the link in my description, the brackets match what I showed in the video. The brackets in the 6th picture match Air lift 57345 shown in this link. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFRZWO/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aref=I4L5pnxgov
I can't see how all the people that gave you good comments could here what was being said. I watch YT vids with my TV and your volume control sucks between the actual voice volume and that loud music. I turn the volume up to here what you're saying and them the loud music comes in and I have to turn the volume down so the music isn't blaring through out the house. Also you should wear a microphone of some sort so your volume stays the same all the time. Sorry for giving you an unhappy comment.
First off, thanks for watching the video. If you notice about 13 minutes in, I am wearing a wireless mic. I purchased it during the making of the video. I am upgrading the video/audio equipment as I can afford to. Also, I find it interesting that out of 12,000 views, you are the first one to complain about the volume.
@@Frontpagefab Hmm...Sorry to upset you...I understand the cost of equipment and there is a significant difference between the beginning and the later audio. That microphone that your using needs to be returned...not good...and get rid of the music, I'd rather watch an hour long vid with no fast forward and listen to every word said instead of listening to music during fast forward. Ask James Condon the Generator Repair Guy...now he has good audio and vids.
@@stevewinter3188 You didn't upset me all good.
awesome! one day soon i gotta do this.
You should!
@@Frontpagefab bought back my high school ranger from my younger brother. he was going to sell it and I just gave him back what he gave me for it. I dont need it for a daily. So I will be looking at the yards for a donor car. Thanks for your videos they help me understand what im getting into haha.
I Have a 2017 Hustler Raptor . No SD , No XD, Fastrack , Just a Raptor ! 23 HP Kawasaki ! And Honestly Besides keeping the oil Changed and Air Filter Blown Out I Hadn't done anything But Pump the tires up and Mow,, about 6 acres worth ! But recently The Deck belt , Drive belt was constantly getting chewed up , or breaking or flying off ! and the Hydro's were getting weak ! and their not " Serviceable" or able to Change the Fluid ,,,, Well That's BS ! With Very little outta pocket cash , I jacked it up , Removed Both Hydro Pumps , Put the worst on my shop table and Opened it up ! Took A LOT of Pictures Cleaned it out , replaced a few O rings , Made all the Gaskets in Both Pumps , Filled with New Rotella Hydro 40W , Replaced all the old Broken Brackets with the kit you Used , Straightened , welded , fixed , New belts , Complete rebuild and reinforced the whole deck , Spindles , Took The Plastic shields of the bearing , drilled and Tapped for grease zerks , Blades , Tubes ! And I've got Better than Brand new Mower for about $400.00 for everything ! Love it !
Can we have a closer look at those diagrams? 🙏🏼
shoot me an email address and I can forward the email from Holley.
Any chance you sell just the yellow and green tine bar?
You want the yellow bars with the greene tines?
@@Frontpagefab yea curious how much for that bar
How wide? Width determines how many tines go on it.
@Frontpagefab 40-42"
@@Ketch22k Send me an email and I can send you a quote. [email protected]
I’d love to see a video of the implement in action. I’m loving the design and such. Great fabrication skills. Paint colors look expensive,😂!
Thank you, My wife and I used to use rakes, and make piles all over the yard. Now I use this and am done in a fraction of the time. You can see it in action here; kzread.info/dash/bejne/aIhqpauLfsealco.html
Thanks for sharing your time and expertise with those of us that struggle a little. Very informative and well done.
You are welcome. Glad it helped you.
Yes it put the shifter back a couple of inches it work great with bucket seats and it put the shifter next to the seat if you want the shifter in the stock spot you can put a s10 tellshaft housing on the transmission another problem is if you run a 4.10 gear first gear is almost useless but on lift kit needed if you want to run a 5 speed manual
I won’t say it’s “needed” since I installed one with no lift, but, a lift would have made things a lot easier lol.
If you had used a t5 or trimic the bell housing is removable and gives you more room the Trans. You are trying to install the bell housing is not removable
Thank you for the info. The bolts on the T5 or trimec trans are on the outside which does make that part of the install easier. However, from everything I have read on the internet, the shifter is further back and can interfere with the seats, also getting the slave cylinder set up correct is a pain. The M5Od is a straight forward install, once you know how to manuver past the non removable cross member. Having said all that, the T5 is probably a better transmission for higher hp engines.
Awesome video! Did the shims fix your vibration?
No it didn’t. The problem turned out to be a joint cap wasn’t installed correctly
nice build, was hoping to see it used once completed, how well has it been handling turning with the lawn? digging in any?
Thanks for watching. I will try to get a video of it in action. We just finished rolling my dad's yard and mine and it performed great. I didn't notice it cutting into the yard, but I also didn't fill it with water because it actually worked well without the water.
Howdy! I have a question. Did you reuse the stock y pipe that connected the catalytic converters to the stock headers? I'm in the middle of a 302 swap in my 94 ranger.
No Sir. I used headers designed for this swap and did true dual exhaust back to the rear bumper. Hope this helps.
@@Frontpagefab Thanks for the reply. I was actually asking about the custom exhaust. I have the same v8 swap headers you have, but I didn't know if you make & welded your own exhaust system or if you reused some of the stock piping.
@@olewesgarage3304Did not use any of the original pipe. Once I got it running, I took it to a muffler shop and had an all new dual exhaust put on it.
@@Frontpagefab Awesome. Thank you very much 👍
Were you in high range on the hydro? If so, next year try it in low range. That 20hp diesel shouldn't bog that bad with a 14" bottom. You might try a depth gauge wheel too. Also make sure plow is running level in furrow, too much tilt forward and they will pull much harder. A properly adjusted moldboard plow doesn't take a ton of HP to pull unless the ground is real wet. The general rule is to set the depth at half the width or slightly more. Your 14" bottom will work best at no deeper than 7 to 8". My 1970 General Electric garden tractor only has a 1.5HP 36 volt traction motor and i can pull a 10" Brinly about 5 to 6" deep in sod and about 7" deep in previous garden ground without the amp meter going past the medium zone. I have run it to 8" deep once just to show off that it could pull it and it did but it worked the tractor noticably harder as the stated working depth for that plow as per Brinly is 6".
Hello and thanks for watching. Yes, it was in low range. There are a few problems going on with this plow. The biggest problem is someone took a 2 bottom and converted it to a one bottom. When they did this they used the back moldboard instead of the front, so the side to side alignment isn't right. The second is when they did the conversion, they flipped the alignment cam rather then re drilling the mounting holes so I can't get the moldboard aligned the way it should be. The other issue is with the tractor itself. The 3 pt doesn't have a position stop to lower it to the same place every time. I am going to send this one down the road at the next auction and keep looking for a better unit. Someday, I'd like to get a 40-50hp tractor and a proper 2-3 bottom plow.
@@Frontpagefab Okay that makes sense then. Happy gardening! Best hobby in my opinion.
@@jeremydavis2595 For sure. We have been gardening for as far back as I can remember (and I am going on 59). I am looking to expand our gardening to start doing the farmers market thing for a semi retirement gig.
What about getting a more narrow tiller for weed control, reason being is that corn grows roots in every direction so you essentially removed at least half of the roots. So what happens now is the corn for around a week or so is not growing, but it is repairing the center roots. Try to imagine any plant, say for instance a tree. They produce tons of roots and in all directions and depths. So the roots in approximately the top two inches try to soak up any water but it doesn't feed the plant, it uses the water to get stronger roots branching out in every direction, these are the roots that provide plant stability, so a gust of wind doesn't knock the whole section down. Below is the next set of roots, from around two & a half inches to around six inches deep, these are where the plant gets it's nutrients. Then on corn you will have one or sometimes several "tap" roots. These grow essentially straight down and are looking for continuous water supply. I'm not sure at what depth you are tilling but the plant now has almost all of it's roots intertwined in each other and staying in the row itself. So now instead of each plant having room in between the rows to stretch out, each plant is in direct competition with every other plant. That's why when we plant hundreds of acres of seed corn 🌽 we generally plant on 30 inch rows, and very few of us ever use a mechanical cultivator. If we damage the roots then there is a direct line to lower yields. I hope this helps you, and you have more sweet corn then ever before!!!🚜🌽🧺🧺
I thought you needed the mirrors in order to see your competition! LOL!😂
I still have the rear view mirror
How is the every day drive with them, does it smooth the ride out at all?
The instructions say to keep a minimum of 5 psi in the bags at all times and I noticed it being a slightly firmer ride, but it's not a big deal.
Depth Control would help a LOT
Nope.
I had the same issue with the brackets on top, and I even followed their directions! Did it ever “flatten out” over time? I’m considering just leaving the top brackets off.
It hasn't leveled out.
@@Frontpagefab I ended up loosening the middle bolts, adding the brackets in on top, tightening the bolts on those and then tightening the middle bolts back again. Here's to hoping no problems with that method!
So, are you going to take it apart and put it back together right? You have the receiver tube inside the cargo area, instead of underneath it. Oopsie! I guess you could have a big cooler play a game of see-saw in it, the way it is now. Mine is still fine after using it on maybe 100 days over the course of the last 7 years. It's a workhorse for something that's almost free.
Good Catch. I actually fixed it a little later but forgot to film it. I will try to do a follow up video tomorrow.
If you haven't got your metal yet, Rochester Iron and metal on Rochester might have what you need!! Looking good 👍
Thanks for the tip! I ordered it through work. They cut and deliver what I need to the plant. I have another project in the works , so I’ll check with you guys on that.
10 seconds of you sucking on a candy was enough for me 😂
Is there any tiny No license, No lights, No hitch attaching cargo tiny trailer out there ?
If your looking for a small yard trailer, look at www.agri-fab.com/Products/Cart. Also, if you google ATV trailer, you'll see a bunch of options.
Thanks I’m going to replace all three when I do mine
Might as well while you are in there.
Lower the music volume or raise the dialogue volume, extremely hard to separate them.
I really like how you added the seal strip explained around 16:10 Do you know what the name brand of that stuff is? Was wanting to use the same method for my build. 🙂
I will look in the shop tomorrow to see if I have any left, but I am pretty sure it's just adhiesive backed rubber weatherstrip that I got at Autozone.
You need another ford ranger pick up project 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I have one in mind, just need the funds.
Rangers lookin good on 31! Drive safe partner :)
Thank you
your only rolling about 8 in of dirt!! a garden tractor plow would work for you!
Yes it would if I could find one with a cat. 1 hitch. Actually this plow would work great, if the person that converted it to a one bottom had done it right.
Howdy! Do you know the make and model of the ignition coil that you're using in the v8 ranger?
I am using the Holly sniper coil to match the holly sniper FI system.
I have springs in stock if you want to make your own rake. Email for more information.
How can I contact you if you have any left ?
@@chrisgramstorff996 [email protected]
How long did it take you to fabricate? Thanks
I probably have 12-16 hours in it. If I build another one, I should be able to do it in 6-8.
Just seen u in town today and seen your youtube account on the back and added you.
Cool, thanks for the add
Howdy! I know this has been a while back, but I have a few questions regarding this build. As fas as the engine mound adapter brackets, I ordered the same kit you did from trans-dapt. The bolt holes that secure the brackets to the crossmember are slotted, so where abouts did you position them? As far forward as possible, or did you have to take measurements and position each one differently? Also, as far as the ac box, did you hold your heat gun in one spot for a while or did you move the gun all around the area of the ac box? I'm in the process of putting a 302 in my ford ranger and I'm using your videos as a reference as I'm doing it. 😁
Hello and thanks for watching. I left those plates loose until I got the motor and transmission set in and the transmission cross member installed. I found that leaving them loose, let me slide the motor forward a bit to create a little more room to get the transmission input shaft past the pressure plate fingers. Regarding the A/c box, I moved the heat gun around to heat up a bigger area, then used a PH8A filter to massage the plastic. Also, look at the shape of the valve covers. This design worked better then the ones that have straight walls. One other tidbit I think I mentioned in (maybe) the summary video is that using a 1 or 2 inch body lift will make things way easier. I didn't use a body lift on this one, but will for sure if I every do another v8 swap.
Thanks for your video. I use a standard rotation timing cover with the GMB High Performance Water Pump 125-1560P which is reverse flow with outlet on the driver side. It has the "circular" holes in the backing plate which is supposed to work with either a reverse or standard flow timing cover. The timing cover's D-shaped openings are indeed a pain to match up especially if you are trying to use a reverse flow WP on a standard flow TC. You may note that the expensive Edelbrock 8840 reverse flow WP also uses a backing plate with circular (not D-shaped) holes.
Excellent info on the GMB and Edelbrock pumps. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching the video.
Thank you so much for doing this video. I never would have figured out this fix. Fixed my flashers same problem. Keep up the good work!
Glad it helped.
Wow that came out awesome i would like to build that myself. If you get the spring made up i would be interested. Thanks
I just ordered 100 springs. Right now I am being quoted 6-8 weeks.
Thanks for doing this video. May you receive many gawk gawks
Thank you
Thieves. I’ve bought 7 drive belts because of this bracket issue. They finally have a recall and I can get brackets put on but have to pay $500 for labor. Hate this company, stuck with this mower.
Yea, we are making due with it. I'd like to upgrade at some point. I have learned that these mowers are cheap for a reason... they use cheap parts.
Very Nice job overall, your welds are functional but not pretty. If your using flux-core, don't weld vertically, only weld horizontal, this will greatly improve your weld appearance🙂... BTW your a very good machinist.
I have always been told that pretty is fine in a beauty contest, but a good solid weld is what matters. Thanks for watching.
Where did you get the tines?
I work at a spring manufacture and had them made.
Curious, did you end up shortening the wiring on the efi? I’m in the middle of installation and have too much excess wiring.
I did not shorten the ones with connectors as it would void the warranty. The others, I did shorten.
@@Frontpagefab cool, thanks for responding. I’m still on the fence.
Nice clean work. 👍
Thank you
I realize that i'm late to the party, but about how much room Do you currently have between the water pump pulley and radiator with the radiator pushed forward? Summit racing has a few low profile puller fans that are no thicker than 2.25"
From memory, it was less then 2". The main problem I found with the thin fans is they are 1300cfm or less and 14 to 16" diameter.
@Frontpagefab Thank you for replying. It's just that in the video, it looks like you have just enough room for a low profile fan, although I can't really see down where the water pump pulley is. Don't know if you're still working on this truck, but another idea would be instead of going with a full size fan, why not try mounting, say, different size smaller fans wherever you have clearance between the engine and radiator? Like areas where there's not a pulley protruding close to the radiator? Just my $0.02
@@olewesgarage3304 I could probably squeeze a low pro fan in but it would by a bear if I have to remove the rad. I may replace the rad with one from northern radiator that is designed for a v8 swap. If I do, then I will install a puller.
@Frontpagefab Ah yes, the Ranger V8 swap northern radiator. I saw that too, and I was definitely considering that when my 302 arrives for my ranger v8 swap. My only concern is that since the radiator is mounted farther forward, you may more than likely have to cut the tabs of the ac condenser and move that farther forward as well if you still plan on keeping the ac. I'm guessing get a few of those nylon zip tie things that go through the fins of the radiator and let the new radiator hold the condenser with the foam/felt pads in between so there's no metal to metal contact. May be a little easier for you since you have a manual transmission. But as for me, I'm planning on going with a Ford AOD, so I will also need to find a place to mount an aftermarket transmission fluid cooler since the v8 swap northern radiator is only for manual transmissions and does not have a built-in transmission fluid cooler...
Hey, ive got a build very similar to yours and I was wondering if you ever had any clutch disengagement issues after u installed the new clutch and pressure plate.
No sir. Still working great after 9000 miles and several burnouts.
What did you use the bleed the thing. Mine still drags with the clutch in.
@@jordantaylor3833 i used a technique I found on the internet. I cut the quick connect off the old slave cylinder and put it on the hose qc. Then I filled the master and gently stretched it out vertically on a ladder and let it drain into a bucket. Keeping the resivour full. When all I saw was oil coming out, I took the scrap qc off and put on a new slave on to fill it. As I am thinking about it, I believe I used an earlier master with a bigger bore but I can’t swear to it. Have you gone through the posts and tech articles on the ranger websites? That is where I found the info.
Ive tried multiple techniques: manual bench bleeding, removing the snap ring, gravity bleeding and no luck. With the clutch depressed it releases just enough that i can turn the driveshaft with my hands but it still rubs. I am beginning to think there's something wrong with my particular clutch/ pressure plate combo (they are both brand new)
@@jordantaylor3833 www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/explorer-5-0-m5od-r2-clutch-hydraulic-help.161788/ also, I typed this into google, ford ranger clutch bleeding tricks and got several good hits.
why not take the tyranny out of the car first then worry about getting converter out.
The torque converter was bound up in the pump and nothing would rotate so I couldn’t remove the converter bolts. I hacked away most of the bellhousing to expose and remove the pump bolts. Then I was able to rotate the flex plate, converter and pump to expose and remove each converter/flex plate bolt. Then I could finally drop the transmission and disassemble. The cause turned out to be a broken pump gear.
You did an amazing job with this dethatcher, congrats 👍🏻🙋🏼♂️🙂
The information in this video is 100% correct and resolved much confusion on this subject. My car is a 1991 5.0 with an RF-E8AE-6059-AA timing cover. If you look at the ports, it's a standard rotation cover. But I also have a serpentine belt, which means the pump is reverse rotation. The small round ports on the pump backing plate allows these to work together. IMHO the small ports have to restrict flow. My motor is bone stock so I'm not too concerned. If you're running a 347 stroker with aftermarket heads on a 5.0, I would buy a true reverse rotation timing cover and water pump with the full port backing plate.
Like the design, and watching the fabrication. You still thinking of building a custom order?
Shoot me an email at [email protected]