I have number of cameras that use the 1.35v mercury batteries. As has been noted, the MR-9 adapter - a one-time purchase - will drop the voltage of the readily available LR/SR 43 to the proper voltage! Another approach that I have tried is to put the 625A battery in place of the mercury version. Using a light meter or camera that exposes accurately, set the aperture, shutter speed and ISO to the desired film speed. On the M5 (or whatever old camera you have) use the same settings, but then adjust the film ISO to match the shutter and aperture settings of the known accurate camera meter. Example: If the accurate exposure is 1/125 second at f/8 using ISO 400 film, set the subject camera to 1/125 seconds a f/8, then adjust the ISO to where it shows a proper exposure. My Minolta SRT101, for example, properly exposes ISO 400 film if I set the meter for ISO 320. My Nikomat FTn requires the meter to be set at ISO 200. Once the proper ISO adjustment is determined, the meter will function correctly with no additional fuss!
@Bowserhistory8 ай бұрын
Hat die Strahlung zu deinen rechtsextremen Kommentaren geführt?
@Bowserhistory8 ай бұрын
@@10akaufmann immerhin ehrlich
@Bowserhistory8 ай бұрын
Für mich ist es kein Wunder, dass jemand der deutsche Stahlhelme präsentiert gerne rechtes Gedankengut im Internet verbreitet
@stuka_bly4t1022 жыл бұрын
Do you happen to have the stahlhelm lot number book?
@10akaufmann2 жыл бұрын
No, but I believe I have checked it online. But even so, the numbers on this example are too faint to read.
@stuka_bly4t1022 жыл бұрын
@@10akaufmann thanks anyways, I’m asking because I’ve recently bought a stahlhelm and would like to know more or it since it’s been restored incorrectly, in the early war pattern so double decal and apfelgrun paint, despite being an m40. I haven’t found it’s lot number on the free database online so I’m asking if someone has the book as maybe I could find more information there
@jemejmukbangers75322 жыл бұрын
Hi guys, from the philippines here. I have a germany helmet in our house we dont know how to sale it or someone who wants to treasure and sale it can you please suuguest me guys? Thanks!
@hiddenwardiaries84942 жыл бұрын
Hi bud, I purchased a M40 Luftwaffe Helmet today from the overlord show in Hampshire. I asked my buddies and they said it was 100% original etc. But I’m not convinced! I was looking for the manufacture stamp and I’m not sure what it is. On the left (near the D strap) is what I think is Q60 Although when looking at the back I think it says LM25 or something like that. Wondering if you could help me?
@@hiddenwardiaries8494 Q is code for Quist , WW2 proper helmet maker. Q60 is the helmet circumference, 60 cms ,. for a small head size liner, maybe a 52. The number at the rear is the heating lot number, I think it's more likely to be four numbers than letters and numbers......have a closer look. Sounds like a proper one, on what you describe.
@historyatwar62303 жыл бұрын
Hi thanks for the tips :D do you know the best place to buy one of them?
@10akaufmann3 жыл бұрын
I bought mine on Ebay. Just be careful. Alternatively you can buy from US specialists-they tend to be expensive though.
@historyatwar62303 жыл бұрын
@@10akaufmann Ok thanks have a good day :)
@goose333 жыл бұрын
Hey do you have an email that I can send pics of my helmets to you? I need someones opinion if you have time Thank you!
@10akaufmann3 жыл бұрын
[email protected] give me as much detail as you can, and I'll do my best
@timothysimpson15613 жыл бұрын
I have an m40 Luftwaffe helmet. The eagle has been removed. I purchased an eagle, would I need to paint over it some?
@10akaufmann3 жыл бұрын
I wouldn’t tamper with the helmet in any way. I would not recommend adding parts that are not original. But it’s up to you of course.
@timothysimpson15613 жыл бұрын
@@10akaufmann honestly I would rather leave it as how history delivered it to me. But it drives me crazy seeing the faint outline of a Luftwaffe eagle.
@Jenovari3 жыл бұрын
An Mr9 battery adapter will match an SR43 silver battery to 1.35 volts.
@Stahl_und_Eisen3 жыл бұрын
Anger? I never heard that name and I'm from germany lol
@10akaufmann3 жыл бұрын
wiki-de.genealogy.net/Anger_%28Familienname%29
@kieronjones54603 жыл бұрын
Very nice helmet. I have a very similar one actually, and from where I am watching this video I'm looking straight at it. The liner in my example is completely original as in yours, but the decal which I also believe is original has been scraped off at some point, clearly a very long time ago, though they have had a hell of a job removing it as I can still clearly see quite a lot of it. Some pitting on the side of my example but around 70% original paint remaining. I own a few of these helmets now, in various states from great condition to relic condition. Its a great hobby, but there are a lot of unscrupulous people who will try and deceive beginner collectors, so its great that people such as yourself try and point people in the right direction.
@Ahuntsicspotter3 жыл бұрын
Nevsky express is fast to.
@bbuchner4 жыл бұрын
You should check the manual, regarding suitable lenses, as some lenses are not recommended for use with this camera as they extend too far into the camera body and can damage the light metering arm. The Elmarit 28 for instance requires lenses of a specific serial number range or higher.
@BoWasHere24 жыл бұрын
It should be noted that the later M5 (three lug version) had some internal improvements for reliability on top of the addition of that third strap lug. Also, all M5s have frame lines for 35/135mm (shared), 90mm and 50mm. To remedy the lack of 28mm frame lines, you could either get an external 28mm viewfinder for the hot shoe or just use the entirety of the built-in viewfinder to estimate a 28mm field of view. M5s also take a long banned 1.35V mercury battery to power the meter but you have a couple of options to overcome this. The camera can be serviced and recalibrated to accurately meter with the readily available 1.5V silver-oxide batteries, in which case a battery adapter would be needed just to accommodate for the size difference between the two batteries. Wein Cells are the appropriate size and will fit perfectly right out of the package, as well as provide the natural 1.35v, but they only last a few months to a year, can fluctuate in voltage over their life cycle (giving mixed meter readings) and have been known to corrode quickly, which can cause permanent damage to the internals of your camera. Likewise, Alkaline batteries do not provide a consistent voltage over their lifecycle; they will taper over time as opposed to providing a constant voltage over their life, so they should also be avoided if you want decently accurate meter readings. Alternatively, there are battery adapters available that have a built-in diode that reduces the voltage from the same silver-oxide batteries but these are a bit harder to come by and must be custom made. The battery voltage must be compensated for (1.35 mercury vs 1.5 silver-oxide) in one way or another. Otherwise, your meter will significantly underexpose. Instead of adjusting your shutter speed to compensate for the inaccurate meter reading, you could also just compensate with your ISO selection. Since the shutter speed has the potential to effect your the look your final image, it is advisable to simply set your ISO selection one stop faster (100 to 200, 400 to 800, etc) so that your meter will read more accurately. The M5 was the first M to have a built-in light meter and the only M to have a spot meter. This is why many M5 fans are drawn to this camera so if you plan to use the M5's meter, make sure you provide it with suitable power. Replacement leatherette for the M5 is fairly cheap and easy to find. There are a couple shops out there that offer custom-cut leatherette in a variety of colors, textures and materials for M5s. Just google "Leica M5 leatherette replacement" and a couple different options should present themselves. The M5 is a great rangefinder, more specifically it was the most advanced rangefinder for its time and it was the last Leica M made in Germany by hand using their "fit and finish" technique and it was the last M before Leica began introducing cost-saving methods such as plastic and non-brass components, inside and out. It is undoubtedly a great camera, as long as you can live with its quirks.
@zachbolton65574 жыл бұрын
Does the M5 have a light meter
@anonymousjones28754 жыл бұрын
Yes it does. It just takes getting used to
@nathan_woodgate5 жыл бұрын
Those pictures are more than one stop under exposed??? Just one turn of the dial will not fix it?
@khairhouu15 жыл бұрын
No need to take out the spool when you loading
@calumstewart30095 жыл бұрын
Like I said in my previous comment, you can use the viewfinder window itself as a rough indication for the field of view for a 28mm. Think of the window's view itself as the framelines. Otherwise, go to www.cameraquest.com/voigtlander_2835_RicohEpson.htm for some examples of a hot shoe viewfinders to frame with a 28mm. You don't have to be a Leitz one either. there are cheaper third party options (voigtlander in particular) Secondly, your exposures are way off. More than a stop or so that might come from using a different battery. You do know that the M5 is a spot meter, right? It therefore doesn't average the scene. It reads from a specific spot. So you have to watch out where it is reading from. Where it reads from will change from lens to lens, ie it will be different iwth a 35 or 50. If you point it something bright and then zero out meter, ie line the needles up, you will get an underexposed image. Try and point the spot meter at something more neutral. Like a brick wall, or grass, which is closer to neutral grey. the final problem you will have is getting an accurate reading using the 28mm, because it isn't clear as to how much of the scene is being interpreted with a 28mm lens on. Actually I just looked this up for you, and according to these blokes, the 90mm framelines that come up when a 28mm lens is mounted is what the meter is reading from. As with as things, practice and more shooting will iron out these bug bears. Good videos, and happy shooting
@calumstewart30095 жыл бұрын
I forgot to add this link that relates to metering with the 28mm on the m5 - www.photo.net/discuss/threads/leica-m5-metering-with-the-zeiss-biogon-25-mm-f-2-8.490940/
@10akaufmann5 жыл бұрын
@@calumstewart3009 Thank you, much appreciated
@calumstewart30095 жыл бұрын
@@10akaufmann no worries. I am thinking of buying an M5, too. So I have found your vid helpful.
@acidsnow59155 жыл бұрын
i own a leica m5 as well and i love it to bits! it is just an amazing camera! thanks for sharing this with us! loved watching this
@calumstewart30095 жыл бұрын
Congrats. Get out there and shoot You know there aren't 28mm framelines, right? what is your plan for framing? just use the whole viewfinder? Again, Congrats.
@10akaufmann5 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Yea I wondered about the frame lines. What would you suggest?
@calumstewart30095 жыл бұрын
@@10akaufmann not sure. it has the same viewfinder magnification as the m6, which does have 28mm framelines. so google what that looks like and remember what it looks like. or get an accesory hot shoe viewfinder for teh 28 mm lens. go to camerquest.com for info
@andrewf53903 жыл бұрын
28mm frame lines can be added by some technicians. Mine has a 28mm frame line added by DAG (still no 75mm frame, kept the meter marks instead) and had the meter calibrated to 1.5 volt batteries.
Пікірлер
I have number of cameras that use the 1.35v mercury batteries. As has been noted, the MR-9 adapter - a one-time purchase - will drop the voltage of the readily available LR/SR 43 to the proper voltage! Another approach that I have tried is to put the 625A battery in place of the mercury version. Using a light meter or camera that exposes accurately, set the aperture, shutter speed and ISO to the desired film speed. On the M5 (or whatever old camera you have) use the same settings, but then adjust the film ISO to match the shutter and aperture settings of the known accurate camera meter. Example: If the accurate exposure is 1/125 second at f/8 using ISO 400 film, set the subject camera to 1/125 seconds a f/8, then adjust the ISO to where it shows a proper exposure. My Minolta SRT101, for example, properly exposes ISO 400 film if I set the meter for ISO 320. My Nikomat FTn requires the meter to be set at ISO 200. Once the proper ISO adjustment is determined, the meter will function correctly with no additional fuss!
Hat die Strahlung zu deinen rechtsextremen Kommentaren geführt?
@@10akaufmann immerhin ehrlich
Für mich ist es kein Wunder, dass jemand der deutsche Stahlhelme präsentiert gerne rechtes Gedankengut im Internet verbreitet
Do you happen to have the stahlhelm lot number book?
No, but I believe I have checked it online. But even so, the numbers on this example are too faint to read.
@@10akaufmann thanks anyways, I’m asking because I’ve recently bought a stahlhelm and would like to know more or it since it’s been restored incorrectly, in the early war pattern so double decal and apfelgrun paint, despite being an m40. I haven’t found it’s lot number on the free database online so I’m asking if someone has the book as maybe I could find more information there
Hi guys, from the philippines here. I have a germany helmet in our house we dont know how to sale it or someone who wants to treasure and sale it can you please suuguest me guys? Thanks!
Hi bud, I purchased a M40 Luftwaffe Helmet today from the overlord show in Hampshire. I asked my buddies and they said it was 100% original etc. But I’m not convinced! I was looking for the manufacture stamp and I’m not sure what it is. On the left (near the D strap) is what I think is Q60 Although when looking at the back I think it says LM25 or something like that. Wondering if you could help me?
Plus the Q is very faint.
Hey, send me some pics, I’ll take a look. [email protected]
@@hiddenwardiaries8494 Q is code for Quist , WW2 proper helmet maker. Q60 is the helmet circumference, 60 cms ,. for a small head size liner, maybe a 52. The number at the rear is the heating lot number, I think it's more likely to be four numbers than letters and numbers......have a closer look. Sounds like a proper one, on what you describe.
Hi thanks for the tips :D do you know the best place to buy one of them?
I bought mine on Ebay. Just be careful. Alternatively you can buy from US specialists-they tend to be expensive though.
@@10akaufmann Ok thanks have a good day :)
Hey do you have an email that I can send pics of my helmets to you? I need someones opinion if you have time Thank you!
[email protected] give me as much detail as you can, and I'll do my best
I have an m40 Luftwaffe helmet. The eagle has been removed. I purchased an eagle, would I need to paint over it some?
I wouldn’t tamper with the helmet in any way. I would not recommend adding parts that are not original. But it’s up to you of course.
@@10akaufmann honestly I would rather leave it as how history delivered it to me. But it drives me crazy seeing the faint outline of a Luftwaffe eagle.
An Mr9 battery adapter will match an SR43 silver battery to 1.35 volts.
Anger? I never heard that name and I'm from germany lol
wiki-de.genealogy.net/Anger_%28Familienname%29
Very nice helmet. I have a very similar one actually, and from where I am watching this video I'm looking straight at it. The liner in my example is completely original as in yours, but the decal which I also believe is original has been scraped off at some point, clearly a very long time ago, though they have had a hell of a job removing it as I can still clearly see quite a lot of it. Some pitting on the side of my example but around 70% original paint remaining. I own a few of these helmets now, in various states from great condition to relic condition. Its a great hobby, but there are a lot of unscrupulous people who will try and deceive beginner collectors, so its great that people such as yourself try and point people in the right direction.
Nevsky express is fast to.
You should check the manual, regarding suitable lenses, as some lenses are not recommended for use with this camera as they extend too far into the camera body and can damage the light metering arm. The Elmarit 28 for instance requires lenses of a specific serial number range or higher.
It should be noted that the later M5 (three lug version) had some internal improvements for reliability on top of the addition of that third strap lug. Also, all M5s have frame lines for 35/135mm (shared), 90mm and 50mm. To remedy the lack of 28mm frame lines, you could either get an external 28mm viewfinder for the hot shoe or just use the entirety of the built-in viewfinder to estimate a 28mm field of view. M5s also take a long banned 1.35V mercury battery to power the meter but you have a couple of options to overcome this. The camera can be serviced and recalibrated to accurately meter with the readily available 1.5V silver-oxide batteries, in which case a battery adapter would be needed just to accommodate for the size difference between the two batteries. Wein Cells are the appropriate size and will fit perfectly right out of the package, as well as provide the natural 1.35v, but they only last a few months to a year, can fluctuate in voltage over their life cycle (giving mixed meter readings) and have been known to corrode quickly, which can cause permanent damage to the internals of your camera. Likewise, Alkaline batteries do not provide a consistent voltage over their lifecycle; they will taper over time as opposed to providing a constant voltage over their life, so they should also be avoided if you want decently accurate meter readings. Alternatively, there are battery adapters available that have a built-in diode that reduces the voltage from the same silver-oxide batteries but these are a bit harder to come by and must be custom made. The battery voltage must be compensated for (1.35 mercury vs 1.5 silver-oxide) in one way or another. Otherwise, your meter will significantly underexpose. Instead of adjusting your shutter speed to compensate for the inaccurate meter reading, you could also just compensate with your ISO selection. Since the shutter speed has the potential to effect your the look your final image, it is advisable to simply set your ISO selection one stop faster (100 to 200, 400 to 800, etc) so that your meter will read more accurately. The M5 was the first M to have a built-in light meter and the only M to have a spot meter. This is why many M5 fans are drawn to this camera so if you plan to use the M5's meter, make sure you provide it with suitable power. Replacement leatherette for the M5 is fairly cheap and easy to find. There are a couple shops out there that offer custom-cut leatherette in a variety of colors, textures and materials for M5s. Just google "Leica M5 leatherette replacement" and a couple different options should present themselves. The M5 is a great rangefinder, more specifically it was the most advanced rangefinder for its time and it was the last Leica M made in Germany by hand using their "fit and finish" technique and it was the last M before Leica began introducing cost-saving methods such as plastic and non-brass components, inside and out. It is undoubtedly a great camera, as long as you can live with its quirks.
Does the M5 have a light meter
Yes it does. It just takes getting used to
Those pictures are more than one stop under exposed??? Just one turn of the dial will not fix it?
No need to take out the spool when you loading
Like I said in my previous comment, you can use the viewfinder window itself as a rough indication for the field of view for a 28mm. Think of the window's view itself as the framelines. Otherwise, go to www.cameraquest.com/voigtlander_2835_RicohEpson.htm for some examples of a hot shoe viewfinders to frame with a 28mm. You don't have to be a Leitz one either. there are cheaper third party options (voigtlander in particular) Secondly, your exposures are way off. More than a stop or so that might come from using a different battery. You do know that the M5 is a spot meter, right? It therefore doesn't average the scene. It reads from a specific spot. So you have to watch out where it is reading from. Where it reads from will change from lens to lens, ie it will be different iwth a 35 or 50. If you point it something bright and then zero out meter, ie line the needles up, you will get an underexposed image. Try and point the spot meter at something more neutral. Like a brick wall, or grass, which is closer to neutral grey. the final problem you will have is getting an accurate reading using the 28mm, because it isn't clear as to how much of the scene is being interpreted with a 28mm lens on. Actually I just looked this up for you, and according to these blokes, the 90mm framelines that come up when a 28mm lens is mounted is what the meter is reading from. As with as things, practice and more shooting will iron out these bug bears. Good videos, and happy shooting
I forgot to add this link that relates to metering with the 28mm on the m5 - www.photo.net/discuss/threads/leica-m5-metering-with-the-zeiss-biogon-25-mm-f-2-8.490940/
@@calumstewart3009 Thank you, much appreciated
@@10akaufmann no worries. I am thinking of buying an M5, too. So I have found your vid helpful.
i own a leica m5 as well and i love it to bits! it is just an amazing camera! thanks for sharing this with us! loved watching this
Congrats. Get out there and shoot You know there aren't 28mm framelines, right? what is your plan for framing? just use the whole viewfinder? Again, Congrats.
Thank you. Yea I wondered about the frame lines. What would you suggest?
@@10akaufmann not sure. it has the same viewfinder magnification as the m6, which does have 28mm framelines. so google what that looks like and remember what it looks like. or get an accesory hot shoe viewfinder for teh 28 mm lens. go to camerquest.com for info
28mm frame lines can be added by some technicians. Mine has a 28mm frame line added by DAG (still no 75mm frame, kept the meter marks instead) and had the meter calibrated to 1.5 volt batteries.