Thank you for taking a few minutes to find out a little more about the channel.
To start... I am Alex de Tessieres and for the past 27+ years, I have been extremely fortunate to be one on the top stage entertainers in the United States performing over 180 shows a year. It has been a fantastic lifestyle, primarily working from home and jumping out for performances all across the United States.
However, with the advent of Covid-19... all venues, stages, events and shows abruptly halted. I was going stir crazy without a creative avenue to release my extremely hyper energy. Oh yes, I am very hyper! If you didn't catch that from my videos.
Then it hit me like a ton of bricks...Ouch! Start a KZread Channel! I thought it would be fun. And, it is! It is also, really hard.
There is so much to learn... But, I will.
So, this is now what I want to do!
tr3nD maker a KZread Channel dedicated to 3D Printing, Making, and Electronics.
So, please join me on this journey!!!
Пікірлер
Hi, thank you for this video. I don't see any stringing when I look at the "Landspeeder Kit" at 1:04 on your printer. That's great. Did you share a Cura Profile for it? Thank You
I have used both types of paper but what is the game changer for me is printing a CHEP Bed Leveling Test Print afterwards and fine adjusting according to the thickness of this first layer print. Knowing what a first layer should look like is standard to be reached and I fine tune the knobs according to the outside lines thickness until it looks perfect. If the thickness is equal at each corner then you are good to go. Before I start a large print I always print a CHEP Bed Test Print to ensure I'm just perfect to proceed. Another item that I would like to mention is I highly recommend buying or building a filament dehumidifier and enjoy problem free prints - the difference is night and day.
Thank you. you don’t know how many hours and how many retraction towers and temperature towers I printed and made no progress until now
today was a shit show trying to get my printer to work again . with no success . i thought about using reciept paper but got distracted . thanks for the tips. will comment again if i can get mine working next time i try
10 years ago I read articles that recommended replacing glass bed over heated bed with Aluminum. It was supposed to improve ABS warping as I recall. after 20 min on youtube I'm surprised to find glass seems to be the gold standard now. I bought a 2mm peice of Al back then but never installed beause I have a delta-V printer and cutting a circle would be time consuming. since I'm restoring my printer after 9 years in storage I figure it's time to upgrade but what is best? I don't care if it is difficult to remove print... I just want to optimize temps for ABS.
Been looking for solution like this for a basement stage setup. Can this rig hold multiple stage lights, etc? Thinking of this as a truss.
Great explanation. I haven't used my printer in a few years, and have forgotten everything! It's coming back to me....
How does one do this using Klipper on an Ender 3 Pro?
Feel like a fucking genius loading up this video whilst using a piece of a receipt because I couldn’t find any printer paper
😂😂
i've been trying to print petg using kingroon kp3s with big flat dimension, i think around 15x12 cm. the first layer seems not always stick correctly, so when the second layer got print, the nozzle will pull the first layer, i've try several ways, but it doesn't help. it only help if I print 1 way only, in top/bottom line directions for for [0, 180], so it will stick one way only, but i want really normal cross printing direction.. maybe need to buy more expensive 3d printer?
This fixed every issue I had been having with my 3d printer! You got my like, subscription, and comment as well! Thank you! ❤
Wow your set up is amazing. Thank you so much for this DIY. Exactly what i was looking for. 10/10
Thanks a million! I love to record my gameplay as killer in Dead by Daylight, but I'm still a little insecure about my skill level, so it feels nerve-wracking to stream live on Twitch. This is the perfect solution.
This is so cool and I can’t wait to try it. What other thing aside from night lights can you make?
Hey was wondering what light source are you using behind the lithophane?
I just did a search for “how to make finer 3D prints” and this came up… Going to try this immediately. I hope it’s still applies in 2024..!
Thx for thevideo. I used it sometimes now and it's very smooth. I work with a cheap printer and some people do'nt believe that i achieved such a nice surface
...okay, but, why are you screaming...?
How do I configure the image size, for example, if I want to print 10cm wide by 15cm high? Where do I adjust the image size? Thank you for your help!!
Great video! My son wants to create gaming videos and was looking for some help on how he goes about recording his commentary over a captured video that he records. Any help would be grateful thanks again!
Thank you. I was having problems like you demonstrated but think more accurate levelling with the thermal receipt will probably resolve them :)
Ive had some issues where it says its recording and then it doesnt and the footage is an unsupported file, is there a way that i can get a screen overlay so i can visably see im recording?
I got the same issue and every time when I try with a new drive same issue will happen over and over after a while for no reason, there is no answer for this on KZread, all the videos are the same teaching you how to record with external drive up to 1h, but no one really knows how to fix the issue, I wonder if they've tried themselves for 1h or they really play games at all? you know what I mean.
Turns out since the last update there has been an issue, hopefully it’s fixed soon
@@TheCreativeBuilder97 so i tried again with my PC m.2 ssd write speed 7400m/s and so far no issues of any sorts, not sure if it was the written speed caused the problem.
@@dimcamus6454 since the April Xbox update this issue occurs, I’ve had to re film videos multiple times, I plug the usb into my laptop, delete everything off it and record only 1 videos, upload to my laptop and delete off the usb, rinse and repeat, so far I’ve had less issue but it’s not a total fix
Out of all the videos, this is the only one that actually helped me. Thank you
I switched from an 0.4 mm nozzle on my ender 3 v3 se, to a 0.2 mm nozzle. at first I got no bed adhesion at all, now thanks to this, I'm dialing it in one pass at a time.
Very good and easy to understand presentation. Thank you sir!
This model have speakers including
I have a seagate 6tb external thats usb 3.0 compatible and i just tried using my thumbdrive thats 265gb and 3.0 as well but neither can be used. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thankyou and have a great day 😀
I've been stuck trying to tram my printer since Saturday and I thought that using a feeler gauge would be better to level it. Haven't used thermal paper in years. Now, I used last night before I went to bed and the bed almost leveled out. 12:17 Oh? You have a video for feeler gauges? Okay, I can take a look.
Feeler gauge video got corrupted… be sure everything is tight and no wobble on bed.
@@tr3nDmaker I was lucky enough to actually get it leveled yesterday. I had to reset the bed by lowering all the screws so the surface was far away from the nozzle. Then, I had to painstakingly count the number turns on the knobs, one by one, to get it leveled and recorded the number of turns on my phone. 8 days was far too long to deal with this printer. Finally, I'm able to print something! Here's the thing. I had to use standard copy paper for the method.
New to 3rd printing. Why do we bed level at 60 degree C when Ender 3 pro defaults to 50? Shouldn't I bed level to the operational temp?
10 degrees isn’t going to make too much difference… however, technically leveling/ tramming should be done at operational temperature.
Awesome explanation for how to, was looking for something similar, but this might work the treat. :) :)
Glad it was helpful!
All points were nicely covered for which I was looking for. Thanks a lot for making this review!
Glad to help.
Does the type of the 3d printer matter here?
Not really, as long as you can get bed temp up to 70+ or nozzle above 225+.
good video for a noob like me
Glad to help.
Or, just buy a printer that self-levels and doesn't sling the bed. lol
Self leveling is fine, but it can give you tilted prints. Always good to start with leveled surface, then let self-leveling make it better.
@@tr3nDmaker Not if you know what you are doing, watch some videos by tutors who teach cnc at uni, problem solved.
Idk what i seem to be doing incorrect i have spent days trying to level my days i got it perfect in the corners and middle but when i print it spits it out and doesnt adhere to the bed but it adheres to the nozzle
Check to see if bed wobble if you push it back and forth and try to wobble it. Check to see if filament on tip is oozing from nozzle threads. Go to stock setting from slicer. Finally. Level/ tram bed again, then again. Once you get this… everything hoes easier.
Man alive I have been struggling with PETG doing bridging on the temp towers.. I'll give your settings a try. Thanks. Nice quick and to the point. Glad you used Cura to compare.
How did it work out?
Glad to help… let me know how it went t.
@@tr3nDmaker Apologies for the belated reply. I have not gotten to the PETG settings I'd like yet. I'd say they are acceptable and I printed a fairly OK object which curled up off the glass mirror bed in one corner, but was useable. I don't quite look as good as my PLA prints yet. Well, one thing is that PETG has gotten me tweeking settings that I had never ventured into before and got me thinking about what the printer is actually doing. I reduced the Cura acceleration defaults from 3000mm/s/s to 700 mm/s/s and the Jerk from 20 to 7. (I didn't realise how crazy high the default is set at )I don't think this affects the stringing but at least the machine does not go ballistic on fast travel moves now. My PETG is from South Africa, called SA Filament. Its PLA is excellent, but the PETG seems to be giving me better prints at 220C with fan at 70% rather than the 235-255C they recommend. I went up and down the temp scale from 210~285C and the fan scale from 0~100% speed. Apparently the colour of PETG can vary its response as well. In my case the colour is Copper, but I'd say it is more like the colour of std pot-plant brown. My bed temp seems to stick OK at 70C when I lay down the initial layer with fan off at 245C but I reduce temp after that and turn the fan on between 40~70C, as I was getting bad blobbing before at hotter with fan off, which has now stopped.
thanks for the help with the settings, its helped me so much with PETG
Glad it helped!
Thank you. This really help me understand the bed level test on my Neptune 3 Pro
Very happy to help.
A bit off track but can you use disable steppers to get the bed leveled and save the settings, tia
Yes, you can disable steppers. But, that is not why bed needs leveling after prints. Main reason leveling is needed is spring tension and positions get disturbed when removing prints. Even slightest movement of bed seems to knock position off.
Great tutorial! Im new to 3D printing myself and had trouble with printing PETG on my new ender 3 V3 SE. Used most of the same settings and now my PETG prints come out looking great, no more stringing!
Glad it was helpful!
i have ender 3 v3 SE too, do you print PETG directly on the build plate or with painter tape or something else?
i have finaly got the thing to print after a WEEK OF FAILS THANK YOU
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Can i record gameplay in my 180 gb hard disk
I bought and Ender 3v2 and decided to forget it because settings were too hard for me, after watching your video and having bought another Ender printer I tried those settings and I am currently waiting for the print to be finished, and it looks perfect ! Can't thank you enough will give you a sub !
Super happy to help.
Your video really helped me the surfaces are quite smooth and everything holds perfectly on the print bed but I still have the problem of small spots appearing and some transitions look quite bad I am currently using the Elegoo Neptune 4 as my printer
Try backing down your retraction and see if that looks better. Too much retraction often causes gaps.
What an excellent video, thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
do you have an up to date cura set up for this as the new version is out
I do not. I will try and work on one soon.
I wish I was handy enough to make this.
It is not that difficult… thanks for watching.
thank you, nice informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for watching!
I`ve been trying to tram my bed for several hours. This video gave me the best results (with the receipt), however my bed is warped. Right at the 4 knobs, I feel just a little friction, however, in the center and between the knobs (center left, right back and front) it slightly dips down. I also still see noticeable lines, but I'm not sure if they're over extrusion lines or if the knobs are too loose (as you show/say in your example). I also have blobs/bits of filament where the nozzle lifts. You mention a video about leveling with feeler gauges, but I couldn't find the link anywhere. I hope you notice this comment soon but I understand you may be flooded with notifications. Thanks for the video!
A small warp in bed is ok. Just level again and try and level in the middle also. As long as print is sticking to bed… just go with it. A very worthwhile upgrade is a glass bed. This will create a flat layer. Personally, I exclusively use glass on all my printers. Also, buy Elmers Jumbo Purple Glue stick. Wipe glass with glue stick and prints will stick amazingly.