Achieving good results with simple means, thinking out of the box, and inspiring others with it. That's my goal with these videos. Create something new, from thought to product and making simple videos of that process is fun, and hopefully they add to your joy in creating. If you like them, please subscribe to this channel and leave a message in the comments, that motivates me to go on.
By the way, you don't hear my voice. I am Dutch, and think my English pronunciation is lousy. I can get quite annoyed by the many video's with unintelligible English and without subtitles. And how crappier the pronunciation, how funnier but less helpful the auto generated subtitles get 😉. I don't think you want me to add to that misery. So I bribed Brian with some hot electrons, and now I can borrow his synthetic voice.
In addition; classical music is so much more beautiful than my crappy English..
Пікірлер
What Diamond wheel did you use?
LoonPon diamond grinding wheels. See: nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004853176941.html
Bloody brilliant!
Almost skipped this over because it's such a common tool, but this is excellent work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎
Nice project, but music was super annoying! Had to mute the whole thing.
A mute button is very useful for my channel if you don't like classical music. All that ripping on guitars accompanied by the sound of piledrivers on steroïds drives me crazy on some other channels, so that's where I turn the switch. 🙂 "De gustibus non est disputandum"
Please can you help me? The internal switch from the chuck guard 24400-01-128 is damaged. To replace that switch I have to disassemble the head stock to reach that switch. I never disassembled the headstock, what is the best approach?
Remove the gear scissors (loosen the bolt and pry the whole thing off by wiggling it). Remove the drive belts, then the 4 bolts of the motor at the bottom left. Now first remove the small Allenhead screw in the recesses of the large ring nut of the drive pulley, and then loosen the ring nut. You can then manually remove the drive pulley from the main spindle, do not lose the key. Now loosen the six M5 Allen screws and the entire back plate with the idler wheel can be removed. Behind this you will find the switches.
Is there a manual or any description how to disassemble the PD400 in the correct way. Are there any special tools required?
Not that I know of. But it isn't hard. What you need is a set of hex keys and maybe a wrench, so no special tools. If you also want to take the main spindle apart (not recommended if you have little experience) you could use a special wrench for those nuts, but tapping them loose with a hammer and a brass rod is also possible.
@@Michel-Uphoff bedankt. Kan ik de tussen pulley met een pulley trekker los halen?
@henklensing57 Die hoeft niet los, je kan de hele achterwandplaat met dat wiel er nog op verwijderen door de zes M5 inbusbouten te verwijderen. Eerst wel even de vier bouten van de motor weghalen. Zie mijn andere antwoord.
It's so fascinating watching someone work who seems so dedicated to precision. Not to speak on something I haven't really studied but you seem to know so much about metrology. I don't know if I have seen a more careful band saw anywhere.
What is this 'aluminum' you speak of? 😂 Great video, thank you.
Wow! I don’t know how your videos have never showed up in my feed, but I now have lots of material to catch up on. Beautiful job on this base!
Now, the thing is you are not an engineer, just a backyard bodger. First, you have no clue how to set up an indicator. Then, you are trying to fix an issue which isn't an issue, and that's clear because you are not a machinist/engineer.
I know you are an engineer from how ignorant you are
Not only ignorant, he is also an arrogant braggart.
Beautiful work.
Wow. Impressive work. The math was spot on.
Super!
Use digital potenctiometer. :)
I also have a magnetic bottom
Nice job as usual... What is material of that shaft? I'm thinking of linear bearing shafts as almost perfect for this application. Precision ground, surface hardened... and not expensive.
And that's exactly the type of shaft I have used. Bought a bunch of them at different diameters a few years ago, and they still come in handy.
Love it! I like the 3 wheel version. 120 deg drive wheel contact rather than the 90 deg with 4 wheels.
And that is not a lot of movement, very nicely done.
... but the shirt!? ...
I want one, it's a great shirt
As slick as the machining!
hahahaaaaa es darf gelacht werden.
Nao vejo a hora de ver vc terminar,e explicar quaia material foi usado e desenho sempre quis intender funcionamento
Michel are designs available to build for myself?
Not at this moment, but maybe if I find some extra sime I will make them.
Definitely a future project, it's a great design for a small workshop, versatile and compact. 👍👍
Nice build looking forward to seeing the rest.
Well calculated, well built, impressive!
Great experiment. Very interesting
Michel, This a lovely design, beautifully executed and very satisfying to complete. I have no wish to detract from this, what would have happened if you fitted a thicker, stiffer stem to the existing mag bases?
Thank you! That would certainly contribute to the rigidity, but then the bottom of the stem, the attachment point to the base, still remains a weak spot. One could drill out the M8 thread and, for example, tap M14 (with fine pitch) into it. That would also help somewhat. But you are still left with the relatively thin and weak material at the top of the base and that short piece of thread. It now contains that thicker rod, but like a tree with a root system that is far too small, it will never really become rigid, especially because the base at that point is made of soft aluminum.
@@Michel-Uphoff a good analogy, and a well considered analysis , thank you . I too have been frustrated by the lack of rigidity of my gauge bases so I might try the less demanding engineering route.
Beautifully made, and excellent results
thanks!
Drawings for this would be great, it’s a work of art !
Thank you! Yes, I know, drawings of this machine are in demand. I'll see if I can find the extra time to produce some sketches. Not complete working drawings, but more the main lines and important dimensions, provided with comments that a builder can use to adjust things themselves if desired.
👍🌟😎🌟👍
Michael this is so good.
Thank you Julian 😊
@@Michel-Uphoff I was only halfway through your video when I commented. I’ve watched it all now, wow! I love the quality of your parts, it’s a thing of beauty! As a new subscriber (today), may i ask… do you have any videos on your other fine tools? They look super good. Cheers
@@JulianMakes Yes, see the rest of my channel.
@@Michel-Uphofflol I was just looking at your channel and was now coming back to delete my question! Your channel looks great, im off to watch some more.
I'm thinking of 3d printing part with holes for magnets... Idia is cool, thanks
Now that’s what men in shades can do Great work sir I love your drive to do better Thank you
"Now that’s what men in shades can do" I don't know what that means.. sorry
Nice work! I had been thinking of going and buying one, might go this route instead now
What an amazing mag base. That has some very impressive holding power. I can see so many uses for a set of these apart from holding indicators. Thanks for sharing your very detailed and accurate build. :)
And what a slick release lever.
I also like it
Given your voiceover voice I would like to call you Clive. Clive, I have been enjoying watching your videos.
Actually, the AI voiceover is named Paul, but I call him Brian 🙂
NIce design! Nice build Michel! Best, Job
Dankjewel Job 🙂
Very nice video, as usual. I like the vertically rotating / sliding rather than horizontally rotating design, although I can see why the horizontally rotating design is more common - it's far easier and cheaper to manufacture. There's nothing wrong with improving a design just for the hell of it, though, so have at it! 4 microns is a hell of a result. Please, though. Aluminium is pronounced as it's spelt, "al-you-min-ee-um" and not with the horrible lazy americanism "al-oo-min-um". Have doubts? Do you pronounce titanium as "tie-ten-um"?
Thank you! Ah.. Potato potato.. See: www.merriam-webster.com/grammar/aluminum-vs-aluminium
@@Michel-Uphoff Merriam-Webster is a dictionary of american english, but even they note "in 1990 The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) accepted aluminium as the international standard." and "aluminum used by the English speakers of North America, and aluminium used everywhere else" :)
Here in short the most frequently requested numbers: Total deflection best commercial model magnetic indicator base I own: - 17 µm in the shaft - 5 µm in the base/connection (at best, measured quite some more in other models, up to 20+ µm). - So at least 22 µm deflection at 0.4 Nm torque. Improvements due to new model: - Stronger magnetic attraction (if so..): no gain - Thicker shaft: - 11 µm - Shorter shaft: - 3 µm - More solid base and connection - 4 µm (and up to -24 µm) - Total gain: - 18 µm (at least) - Measured deflection < 4µm
Elegant design! I love the axial bearing in there. I imagine the action to move very smooth?
Thank you Stefan 🙂 Yes, the lever can be turned with one fingertip, although fastening is somewhat smoother than loosening.
Looking good - but I still find it a bit unclear what the exact source of the problem is. The screwing? The fact that M8 is too thin? What happened if you just screw in a thicker rod? What's wrong with the magnetic mechanism?
See pinned answer.
Beautiful work and craftsmanship as always, thank you for sharing!
Thank you Victor 🙂
This video is brought to you by loc tite 🤣🤣 Lovely video and this makes a nice project 👍😀. You state in the beginning that these magnet types holder's are not very stable but you place it on a marble plate 😋... I believe that these types of magnetic stands are not suitable for accurate measurements and can only give a reasonable result when using micrometers uo to 1/100 of a mm at best. If you want to measure in the 1/1000 mm range the old style metal base that rest on 3 balls are the best. They have a large surface and good mass for stability. I have been in a climate controlled measuring room and i can't remember if they used the magnetic types at all . I remember they had accurate marble plates and the cast iron type plates , but I can't recall that they had any magnetic stands but I remember the non magnetic types. P.s. when cutting aluminium on your bandsaw , lathe or mill use wd40 and you will get a better result in cutting and finish 😀👍. That is also the only reason why you should use wd40 in the workshop .... it's pretty much useless for anything else 🤣.
Not Loctite, but metal glue from G-fittings. I only placed the magnet bases on the granite table for the photo. As you can see in the video, they are used on a cast iron surface plate. In the video I mention that these types of bases are fine for indication, but not for accurate measuring on the surface plate. I want to do something about that with this build. Wd40 is too messy for me, I use alcohol to cool and lubricate while machining aluminum.
Nice stand. Pachelbel's canon is always a good choice of music too. But how much of the reduction in deflection is due to A) the stronger magnets, B) the shorter shaft and C) the thicker shaft? Could the same reduction in deflection have been achieved by simply putting the shorter, thicker mounting shaft on a commercially available magnetic base?
See the pinned message at the top.
I like your idea and the beautiful workmanship! Any chance you could share your design drawings? I have always wanted to make my own base too, however, I'm just not that clever, especially with any maths that may be involved. Thanks for sharing your idea though.
At the end of this series I will make some simple drawings.
What need do you have for these tighter tolerances? ie are you remaking these tools just for the sake of it or did you, for example, try prototyping something and saw that the existing ones are not cutting it? great channel
I have no real "need". As a kind of precision geek "me wants it" And I just enjoy the process of creating nice hardware.
Great job. Better than expected is always good. Regards, Preso.
Thank you Mark 🙂
Very impressive Michel.
Thanks!
Michel, thanks for another hypothesis & well thought out solution, Congrats! Looking forward to your next instalment.
Thanks Colin 🙂
Excellent as usual. Thanks for showing us . Cheers
Thank you