A collection of videos documenting automotive adventures, trips, maintenance and modifications. Some days are filled with fun days on the trail, and others with challenging times wrenching.
Hope some of my life lessons help you with yours, or inspire you to go out and try!
Пікірлер
Thanks for sharing!
Had anvance auto replacement, makes more noise than factory one so swapping back.. it was my steering shaft that was problem, and in last year my bottom hose came loose twice. Jeep wrangler sucks, wish i had my old ford escape back, never got stuck in snow with that, got stuck twice in the wrangler.
Only way a Ford Escape could be better than a Wrangler in the snow is due to tires. Have seen many Jeep owners rely on mud terrains all winter and make similar statements.
Really good job on camera placement as well as lighting. and watching hands. Being a mechanic is one thing, but making useful videos and editing them is a comple separate skill. Good job.
I have one of those crafsman lights
Where did the small vacuum line go that you had the zip tie on to the pump?
At what time in the video?
@@EricCantin 4:00 the smaller rubber hose yhay slips on the little tube on the pump
I think that was the air supply line to draw air higher in the engine bay (since the pump was below the OEM water fording level). Since the bracket relocates it so much higher, no longer used.
did mine and I just remove the hinges and drilled them out. way quicker then pounding them out. put brass liners in and stainless pins instead of the screws and lubed them up with a little grease.
Thank you very much for all your time and effort making these videos. Do you happen to know the bore diameter of the J8 master cyl.?
I think 1-1/8”.
Can you please post the individual part numbers on both the master cyl., and the booster. Can’t really use the brake kit part number as a crossreference.
Have a look in the video description. Good luck
Thank you very much for your time and effort making this video and listing the part numbers.
So where can I get these brackets?
I have seen a few times. Anti seize on brake bolts. And have seen use locktite. I would worrry about anti seize and brake bolt backing out. Thoughts?
I might be lucky, but I’ve only had suspension hardware covered in anti seize loosen, but that also happens on dry fasteners and even loctite didn’t do the trick. I tear apart and service brakes at least twice a year, so have lots of opportunities to catch anything loosening.
@@EricCantin Thank you for the reply.. I was curious as I am about to do mine. I just got JL powerstop front caliper and rotor. and lucked out an a deal with Baer rear set same as factory rotor size but 4 piston caliper so I figured it is worth it. again thanks for the reply AL
i’ve had problems with braking in low rpm since i got my used jeep. usually right when i cold start the jeep. the pump is already on the location bracket under the hood so i’m going to check to make sure the connections are tight. otherwise thanks to your in depth video, i’ll know how to replace the vacuum pump if needed.
Excellent detail. Thanks!
Tell me one thing why do you need bigger brakes on off-road vehicle? XD Stopping power is the same, weight is worse, clearance to rims is worse, mud problems are worse due to clearance. You would not tell me that you need better heat distortion after multiple stops from 140mph😂😂😂😂
Cause the stock JK brakes are under sized. That’s why.
There is also 9/16 for some years and a hex.
Did you snap the two wires that attach to the cupholder bulb on the bottom side when you pulled the console free?
Doh!! I have a Sport, so don’t have that.
What was the ambient temperature variation between the two tests?
The two runs were on the same day. The part where I aired down the Cherokee tires and finally coaxed it up was minutes before I drove the Wrangler down.
Super Cool, j ai hate au prochain video!
Cool fly 🤝😎
I just did the J8 install, I did a couple of things differently that seemed to save time and headache: 1. I installed the master cylinder to the booster before putting the booster in the jeep the entire assembly slid right in with zero problem. 2. I drilled the holes in the firewall out a bit larger so I could reinstall the 4 nuts for the booster from inside the jeep, this meant I could loosely install the backer plate and them slide the entire assembly on and bolt it all in.. I did have to relocate my twin air compressor setup, but found that moving it forward toward the front of the jeep allowed it to clear the master cylinder resovoir and still fit (barely) under the hood I was able to reuse the bracketry with a few small bends on the vice.
just hit the sub button because this was a great video
Just replaced the strainer and its still leaking slowly. I need the part that the strainer fits into. Anyone have that part number?
It appears they Do NoT make them anymore
Doh! So have to source the parts individually now.
Heat the grommets and valves with a heat gun. Heat them just enough to get them soft so you can deform them. You are going to chuck them anyway so if you chowder them up, no biggie. Worked for me. 98 TJ 4.0.
The thing about owning a jeep is a constant barage of fixing stupid shit. Go jeep.
Thanks for this. I bought the kit to replace the inserts but found 'banging' out the old ones a problem and I didn't want to 'go to town' getting them out. I cleaned off the door pin and it helped a lot but I still want to replace the insert. You just ruined the hinge! I was even thinking about just buying new hinges if I messed them up. I'm going to try again in a few weeks and flood them with wd-40 and add some 'gentle' persuasion. I can get the doors off so it's not as bad as yours. My JK is black so maybe a bit easier to cover up any issues. Matt Hudson Valley, NY
Just a heads up. never start the vehicle on an empty pump. Good practice is to install the pump and res first. Fill the res, then spin the pump by hand to draw in fluid. Then install belt last. Jack up the front so wheels are off teh ground, and manually work the steering wheel back and forth as you fill the fluid. This will need about 50 back and forth to bleed teh air out. Once the air is largely out you can start the vehicle. and continue another 25 or so cycles lock to lock while running and cap off. This process will allow your pump a much greater life expectancy
orring part number ???????????
Thank you buddy will check codes when I get home I have non stop air bag light, i called dealership but they have no idea of that recall, it was on old My Jeep app but new Mopar app does that show anything, got an appointment Monday after St Patrick's to see if work can be done.
I made reference to the extended warranty code number when talking to the local dealer.
@@EricCantin here at dealership showed front desk clerk the B1B06 code and the download you provided but just got brushed off.
If they didn’t give you a valid reason to brush you off, call corporate or go to another dealer. Our clock spring has since been replaced.
@@EricCantin I'll get on it.
Fantastic! 🎉
😎
I started to do this then it became apparent that I could use the filter center bolt and screw the filter direct to the block. I used a smaller filter on it. No more O ring leaks. This also works on the 93-99 ZJ Grand Cherokee.
Good video
Information is helpful
Slow and steady wins the race not pace lol
Bud, get some exercise and walk your bins to the curb. Never seen someone use a vehicle to go 30ft. 😂
Get a better measuring tape. That’s 175ft one way.
@EricCantin You used enough fuel for a couple trips to the curb to power a hundred homes in Africa for a year... 😂 jk but thanks for doing this video. Very informative.
If it’s a really easy replacement process, try aftermarket. If it’s a real pain in the rump to reach, put in original!
As per the video, the aftermarket one was noisy. Mopar replacement still doing great.
Thank you for recording the "before" sound. I'm getting the same sound, not a "Click" like other describe, it sounds like the starter motor is spinning but it didn't kick out and engage flex plate. Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow.
Welcome. Crazy how a sound can help confirm an issue. Hope the battery cable at the starter plays nice with you.
Hope you see this one and can reply. Now that you have the JLUR brake kit as well as the J8 MC Kit have you noticed any difference in brake pedal travel before feeling brakes engage? I've had this set up for sometime now but have never felt like the pedal travel was the same as the OEM brake setup. The JL/ J8 combo definitely has more pedal travel before engaging brakes. Not a soft pedal per se, just more travel before braking seems to occur. Could it be because the JLU brake pads are forced off the rotors by the pad springs?
There’s an issue with my MC and booster, so hard to say. Been on a backorder waiting list for a while. My pedal feel is inconsistent and sometimes engages higher than other times. I never tried to cycle the ABS unit with JScan to see if that would help. A buddy of mine recently installed the J8 MC and booster, I’ll have to ask how the brake pedal feels compared to his Gladiator. I’ve driven JLUs and their brake pedal felt fine, so doubt that the pad springs are the culprit. My wife’s JKU with stock brake setup definitely engages sooner in the brake travel.
@@EricCantin I saw on your vid where you had install troubles with the 1st MC. I think you went to a Crown MC after that. I’ve gone thru 2 Crown MC’s. 1st developed internal leak almost immediately. 2nd started leaking from reservoir seals after 8 months. I’m now on a Crown booster and Mopar MC. I’m wondering if it could be the booster that’s the issue? I’ve pressure bled this thing probably a dozen times with no change. Ran ABS bleed multiple times also. BTW I was just typing a long message to you on Wrangler Forum regarding this. Saw a thread where member was experiencing 1-2” pedal travel before brakes felt like they reacted. I’m having that same feeling, even w the J8 MC.
I asked my buddy. His J8 MC blew up on first use… The manufacturing quality of the components seems to have fallen off a cliff.
@@EricCantin Mopar or Crown parts? What’s he doing for brakes now?
All Mopar. He reinstalled the stock parts. He was told by the dealer at least 4 months for a warranty replacement… he might try Crown.
Dude, thanks for the tip on the PITA sensor connector. Props
Can this be done with an OEM radio or does it need to be a specific head unit?
This subwoofer works with RCA inputs as well as speaker level inputs. If you replicate with a different unit, there are speaker level input to RCA available on the market.
Why are you driving anyways? Do something for yourself and the environment and walk the garbage to the road.
Nope.
Why just 30 psi? My 35s need to be at least 50+ before road ready
Airing up four 35” to 50psi needs either lots of time and patience or another air source. We didn’t have either.
Hey Eric-Thanks so much for posting this. Our 18 JKU dumped the washer fluid when it was -5F. I just happened to see this first, and the filter WAS fully cracked. Used the BMW replacement and it seems to work now (though NOT currently below 0). A big help! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍✌
Glad it helped you find and fix the issue!
You should try some real winter tires, like Nokias Hakkepelita. And maybe even the studded version.
Those Haks were back ordered when I placed the order. A mid tier true winter tire will still outperform any 3 peak all terrain on ice. So doing better than using my ATs.
Put a set of Nokian Outposts on my wife’s grocery getter for some peace of mind in the winter. They were so good that I’m debating putting a set on my truck.
I keep telling people that 4x4 without winter tires does not solve the problem. On freezing days my front-wheel drive sedan with winter tires handles way better than my Jeep on mud tires on 4x4, in fact, I don't even drive my Jeep during the winter after a few very scary situations.
Even winter tires don't make a huge difference in the long run. I drive on ice roads and mountain highways all over northern Canada with any kind of vehicle and no collisions. The reality is, the best way to prevent collisions is behavior. People need to learn to accelerate slowly, drive UNDER the speed limit while staying in the right lane, keep a very long distance from the vehicle in front of you, decelerate by letting go of the gas to let the car slow down own it's own (seriously brakes cause the most collisions as a mechanical issue), and the make sure your vehicle is in working order. Hierarchy of controls: Substitution/elimination - do you even have to go out today or can you work from home or delay trip? Administrative controls - behavior mentioned above Engineering controls - proper tires, 4x4, etc PPE - last and most unreliable line of defence, relying on the car to save you from injury during an accident.
I disagree. I wear winter boots in the winter and sneakers/sandals in the summer. So should a vehicle.
@@PeglegkickboxerI’m sorry this is just objectively wrong. Winter tires have substantially more grip than summer or all terrains. They don’t exist for no reason. Yes driving behavior definitely is a big factor, but me slipping and sliding around in my Silverado in mud tires, and then having 0 traction issues in my wife’s Camry with snows in even worse conditions didn’t happen by magic.
Some cynical person would make a comment on what USA residents will put up with not to have to walk a few yards. But I appreciate the extensive content on how the car handles the winter conditions.
For the record, it’s about 60 yards. My wife laughed at me during these shenanigans.
What is the part he transferred at 2:15 mark?
That’s the foot light. Depending on the trim, may or may not have those.
I changed crank sensor ,wasn't the problem, now lm going to change the starter,
I have a 2012 JK. Thank you sir!
Is yours also faulty?
@@EricCantin Not so far.
thanks for this video. Just did my 14 that is not lifted. power wire was an absoute SOB to get off.
Unreal..all this and zero demo...don't you check the video to see that it conforms to copyright..this video is useless to us who need to hear how it sounds...were you just too lazy to search and upload music that was copyright free...theres a ton of music out there that you could have used..but instead you edit the video to take the portion out but never replace it.....unreal
I tried to do a follow up video, but cellphone / GoPro microphones can’t pick up the low end reasonably well. The experience & attempts confirmed my thoughts about all other videos I watched before making a gamble on this: - Very few have the right gear to test / record. - Most are full of distortion that makes the product sound cheap. - Very few listen on devices larger than a phone or tablet which lack woofer capacity recreate the low end frequencies.
You wouldn't actually hear what it sounds like anyway.