This channel is about my simple DIY projects, its for DIY enthusiasts, and people who want to try and give it go themselves!
I am starting with a garden room build series, covering everything I do and learn along the way.
The garden room will be 2/3rd home office and 1/3rd workshop.
Next will be the workshop design and fit out series. Once the workshop is up and running there will be lots of household DIY, project builds, some restoration and hopefully some useful tips and tricks coming to the channel!
Enjoy!
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Hi. Where is your get the metal cladding from. ? Thanks
Whats the height of your walls?
Thanks for all the help. What I would find very useful is seeing where and how you connect the armoured cable at the house end especially if joining to the house ring main via a fused spur instead of directly to the consumer unit. The other useful info would be at the garden room end and understanding if this could just be a 10mm armoured feeding the consumer unit from which I presume you would then take both the power and lighting to all the circuits in the garden room/workshop?
Hi John, no probs. On the house end our consumer unit is in the corner of the kitchen, on the outside wall in cabinet, so I brought the armoured cable through the wall into the cabinet. Then it goes into the house consumer unit on its own dedicated MCB. I just added a new one in a spare slot. At the garden room end I have the cable going into a new consumer unit in the workshop, in the same way mains power goes into your house one, then from there, as you say, separate circuits for lights, sockets in the two rooms, and the two heaters are separate and the external sockets are on their own sperate circuits. I did all the wiring of light, sockets, switch etc, and mounted/buried the amour cable and new consumer unit, but I didn't do the wiring up of the consumer unit itself or the connection into the house consumer unit. I got an electrician to do that last part on both ends so that he would then test everything and give me a certificate. He charged £300 for that. He was probably just over half a day, but I was happy with that as it meant everything I had done was tested and checked and I have the certificate. I also spoke to him before hand and told him what I was going to do, the different circuits etc, and he was happy with it. You could do the 10mm cable via fused spur, but if you can get to the consumer unit I would do that, then the garden room has its own independent MCB, which can be more than 13amp - mine is 40amp, as I have 2 heaters, loads of sockets in both rooms, lights, tools, tvs, computers, etc etc quite a lot in there. I talk about some of the circuit and things in this video, kzread.info/dash/bejne/n558tKawipqnpJM.html but I will try and do another one to show it finished. Good luck with it!
Appreciate the videos!! What nails did you use for the cladding? Any chance of a link to the nails?
Hi thanks! I used a mixture of stainless steel nails, they were from here: tradefixdirect.com/p/a2-stainless-steel-lost-head-nails-40-x-2-65mm (A2 Stainless Steel Lost Head Nails - 40 x 2.65mm (1kg) ) and stainless steel screws, the screws were from Toolstation, www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p25702 Apparently if you don't use stainless they can rust, and you can get rust showing through. I haven't had any issues and I am two years in now!
I now feel confident to fix my window handles 😊
Good luck!
What are the dimensions of the ‘goal post’ detail you have built around the edge? Looks amazing!
Thanks! they are about 30cm wide, and come out, from the front by about 30cm, I built the dimensions based on two boards wide so I didn't have to rip them.
What are the dimensions of the ‘goalpost’ that you have built for the cladding? Looks great! I want to copy :)
Hey sorry, thought I replied to this, they are around 30cm out from the building and 30cm wide, based around 2 boards and the corner beading so I didn't have to do a lot of rip cuts. Good luck with yours!
Hi, you stopped videos a year ago. Hope all is well, fantastic looking build.
Hey there, thanks, yes all is well, I do need to do a final wrap up video!, All worked out well though, I use it every day, either working from home in the office, or in the workshop side. Its all been fine and no issues with anything! Touch wood!
Did you use about one bag of MOT per block? Thx
Yes probably on average, there were a couple where the ground was softer so I kept digging till it firmed up and I was definitely through the top soil. one had about three in!
I was looking at doing the oakwood threaded bar method but the concrete blocks are a much cheaper. Maybe harder to level but small price to pay.
Yes I considered that method too, but decided on the blocks, again for cost, levelling was ok once you get a rhythm going. Two years since the blocks were done and no issues so far!
Thats a nice finish on the sheets. I'd like to use those on mine. Can i ask where you bought them from and their name? Thx
Thanks I got them from Claddco direct, I went for the mm 0.7mm plastic coated ones, www.cladco.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/425/s/32-1000-box-profile-0-7-pvc-plastisol-coated-roof-sheet/category/102/
Great video. Which ceder are you using? Where did u get it from? If you don't mind me asking. Thanks
Hi There, thanks, no problem, it was Canadian Cedar, from a company called www.benchmarktimber.co.uk
@@FatManBuilds Thanks buddy
Helpful but I will have to cut the long bit- spindle? So working out how to cut it.....will look at another video
Hi there, thanks, you should be able to cut it down with a hacksaw easy enough. Hope you worked it out! Thanks Simon
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but why didnt you use a temporary stop block when lifting the beams into position, alignment would have been perfect straight off?
Hi Alan, thanks for the comment, not sure what you mean by temporary stop block?
@@FatManBuilds like the riser supports you used, but at the top to stop the beam toppling over first time it went up. I noticed with the small one, you put it up, then dropped it back again before securing it, incase it toppled over?
@@alanthompson2063 Oh I see what you mean, yes you are right that would have helped! I was worried about them falling forward, but it never occurred to me while I was on the ground. It was only when I got up there. Thanks for watching!
A quick question where did you the roofing panels from ? Hope you don’t mind me asking . Regards Fred
Hi Fred, no problem, I got them from here: www.insulatedpanelstore.co.uk/quadcore-ks1000rw-roof-panel-anthracite They were very helpful, two delivery guys carried them carefully round the back too. Good luck, thanks Simon
Didnt quite get to finishing....first screw for handle is in but the handle wont turn for me to put the other screw in 😢
Sorted it, needed to fit handle in 90 degree position
Glad you got it sorted! I missed you first comment!
Great video, very easy to follow. Thanks!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Hi can I ask are roof panels ridged enough that they don’t need any support other than resting on the 4 walls, even at over 4 meters.
Hi there, check out www.insulatedpanelstore.co.uk/quadcore-ks1000rw-roof-panel-anthracite the spec sheets give the unsupported spans. My walls are about 3.5m centre to centre and they have been fine, I used them 4.2m panels. thanks!
Does the same apply to a horizontal window (kitchen upper for example)?
Yes should do, thanks
You need a microphone.
Thanks, I did get one eventually, eventually 3!
How did you go round the corner with those metal sheets?
Hi There, I stopped at each corner then there are corner flashing that go ne each corner at the back, and on the front I built out false columns and clad those in Cedar.
Hi, I’ve got my Kinspan panels now ready to go, still working out the fall from back to front, did you use a 4 degree fall or slightly less, hard to see in the video, my panels are 3.6m long?
Hi there, I did go with the 4 degrees, mine slopes down from the front to the back. Good luck with it!
Nice touch sir, now my turn to fix the broken handle. I feel confident, thanks to this video
Thanks! Hope it went ok!
Great series. We used firring pieces rather than cutting each upright to different lengths. Robin Clevett has an easy to follow video showing how to do it.
Hey thanks for the comment, I had a look at that, nearly went that way. Robin is great, used quite a few of his tips elsewhere. And got the idea to use Gapotape from him, and in fact the Glulam beans! Good luck with your build!
Nicely done. Looking to do exactly the same, this really helps! Do you have equal spacing between all the blocks both horizontal and vertically?
Thanks, mine did work out pretty even, around 1.5 along the long side, and about 1.2 along the short side, I ended with 15 piers in 3 rows of 5 along the long side! Good luck with yours!
The little black switch on the side of your old fashion screwdriver turns it into a ratchet screwdriver . It's the little things
Ha thanks! it does indeed!
good job, looks great
very helpful! thanks for this video
Great video, I am now going to attempt mine after seeing how straightforward it is. Thanks!
Thanks! Good Luck!
Hi what is the load bearing for this type of panel and do you know the load bearing for the 40mm version. is it safe to crawl over? to install
Hi, the load bearing is on the data sheets, here: www.kingspan.com/content/dam/kingspan/kip-west/wall-panels/quadcore-ks1000rw-wall-panel/kingspan-quadcore-ks1000rw-wall-panel-data-sheet-en-gb-ie.pdf The 80mm I have is find to walk on and I have 3.6 between walls, it feels like there a very small flex when you walk on it, but hardly anything. Obviously that would be less at smaller spans. I would probably not crawl over 40mm, I might give way, that is pretty thin. The 80mm means there is a good gap between the top and bottom layers of metal so its more rigid, as they get closer at 40mm I think it could fold! Good luck!
thx for the reply, i`ve looked at the link and it says at 40mm and 3m span the pressure is 1.08 and suction 0.98. Assuming that may mean it can withstand 1.08 kn/m2. new to this stuff? Sounding right? I`m assuming safe to crawl on as it`s sold for roofing I guess. I`m 70kg.. Cheers for the info tho, hoping i`m understanding the data@@FatManBuilds
So, 1kn/m2 is 100kg over a square metre, so I imagine if you managed to spread yourself out and distribute your weight you should be ok! But I would go very careful and see what it feels like as you move over it! Good Luck!
cheers for your input.. 80mm for the win I think.. :)@@FatManBuilds
screw spacing 1600 centres? you mean 400 centres
I do indeed! thanks for the spot!
Does the floor and glue act as the vapour barrier?
Hi the foil on the insulation actually acts as the vapour barrier, to stop any moisture coming up from underneath, though I have god air flow under the building so there shouldn't really be any moisture. So I don't think it really does much, or rather doesn't have to do much, The final flooring in LVT which clicks tightly together, so effectively that is the first vapour barrier from inside the room really. But again there isn't really much moisture in the room either!
@@FatManBuilds appreciate the response, thanks!
Hi there, I’m also doing a DIY build and will be tackling the floor soon. Can I ask whey you decided against a floating floor, was it simply because you when with timber frame as opposed to slab base?
Hi, Yes really because its a timber base and I wanted the floor fixed to the base, Effectively this is floorboard. The finished floor is actually a floating LVT floor, on tope of this floor, which I haven't done the video for yet! Will get round to posting it soon. Good luck with your build!
Did you have to screw the panels to the side walls too, or just through the peaks front and back, so only 6 fixings per sheet? I’ve installed mine using your incredibly helpful video but I find it strange that the first and last panels don’t attach to the side walls. My side walls don’t happen to align with a peak so I’d need to screw through the flat part of the panel where the rain flows which may cause more harm than good. Thanks for this video and all the others in the series. I’ve used your tips a lot.
Hey, thanks for the comment much appreciated, glad the videos were useful, I actually need to post a round up video! I am in the garden room now writing this! On your question: I thought the same, and although the diagram I looked at from Kingspan didn't have them on the side I did fix through the panels in the the side walls. I just thought, same as you it would be better to tie it all together. I was lucky and one wall did coincide exactly with a peak, the other one I just went through the flat part. But its now a good year since I have had them up and no issues with water anywhere. The rubber washer on the fixings are doing the job. Good luck with yours!
fell asleep
Ha! well at least it can serve a purpose!!!
where did you get the fascia and soffit boards? I was going to use Eurocell uPVC but yours look better
Hi, thanks for watching, I got mine from fascias.com/ they were quick and when they sent one incorrect piece they quickly replaced it with no hassle.
GREAT TIPS ON THE SWITCHES MY FRIEND, AND THANK YOU FOR THE SUB, BUDDY. FROM DOUG
Thanks Doug!! Much appreciated 👍
You're welcome buddy and I gave you a new sub to my friend
well done fella, many thanks for the un complicated, no stress approach to your video, Cheers
Cheers! Thanks for the comment! Much appreciated!
Do sockets and consumer units have to be installed to a min height in outdoor buildings? Good vids as always. In pondering do what you did rather than using the plasterboard sockets
Thanks! Well it depends, if you are below 30 square meters, which I am, then you don't need building regulation approval, so you could put them at any height. But I went with just above 450mm from the floor level as that is what the building regulations say (450 minimum from the floor), even though I didn't really need to! Plus that high means the ones on the TV wall they will be hidden by the floating unit I eventually will put on the wall for the TV boxes. I went for the metal boxes on the wood purely as I think it's a stronger overall solution than the plasterboard boxes I don't really like the way they only fix to the plasterboard and nothing else. They would likely be fine, but I was just going for strongest really. Thanks for question and comment!
Thanks. your a massive help@@FatManBuilds
Great video, thank you :) I'm a complete diy novice but going to give this a go today!
Thanks! Good luck!
We put down a weed membrane with a 2 tonne of 10m stone chips. With 70mm Kingspan, in between the floor joists. Then aluminium tape to seal off any damp. Then 22mm egger protect. Then built the frame 100 x 47. We used 1.5mm ground screws as the ground was on the soft side.
Is there any regs about running cable through PIR board?
There is, well "insulation" rather than PIR, it's in the wiring regulations, BS761 - tables 4d5. What happens is the current carrying capacity of cables covered in insulation is reduced, as the cable can't dissipate heat so quickly, so and you are supposed to take that into account when sizing the cables. However, for me in practise I was using 2.5mm twin and earth and the electrician, who I spoke to about it said cut a slot and put it in there and even with the impact of the insulation 2.5mm will be fine, and it's actually technically oversized anyway. He came at the end at commissioned it and tested everything and it was fine and has been since. Also the fact that the cable although in the insulation will be touching the plasterboard will reduce the effects as the plasterboard will acts as a heat sink This is the table:. www.elandcables.com/media/3hoka0mu/table-4d5.pdf and this explains it professional-electrician.com/technical/thermal-insulation-and-its-effect-on-flat-twin-earth-cables-niceic/ Good luck!
@@FatManBuilds Thanks for the response and info.. Great stuff
This helped me out so much! Thx 4 sharing!
How come you never put in any noggins?
So much stuff - though I did cheer up when I caught a glimpse of that maple at the corner of the shed :)
I've got 30 years worth of 'useful bits' in my shed too. I keep meaning to do a clear out but everytime I convince myself that I may need them one day! I am confused - where is the bonsai section of this project :)
Its coming! I have now finally got to move the temporary temporary temporary shed and move some trees, so I can start the decking. And after watching Tony's videos I did an air layering of an apple tree and a maple, so I can move them. So sorry to hear about Tony, what a real shame. His videos are great, so good to watch and such a nice guy. He has a great legacy in those videos, and makes it really accessible, that's how I found your channel. Years ago I used to watch Herons Bonsai, then when I was thinking about what to do about the trees I need to move I came across Tony's great videos.
@@FatManBuilds I started with a youtuber called Mik Bonsai and also Make Bonsai. I look forward to seeing the se air layers thriving :)
I definitely know that feeling about progress :)
Nearly there!
Ok - so I am interested. Best go to part 2 :)
Ha, you have a lot of parts to go, and I still need to post the final part!!!
Good vids really helpful. I have an awkward shaped garden office build and i think its easier to use furring strips for the roof. Would i have to cut the fascia to meet the angle the furring strips creates? Thanks in advance and keep the work coming
Thanks! I don't think you will as you the furrings will only add the angle to the top, the side and bottom will be square so you should be fine! I need to post a video of the finished thing, it's all done now and in good use! Good luck with yours.
Boarding. Like watching paint dry 😅😅
😁 Thanks, watch the one where I varnish the door frame, that really is like watching paint dry!!!
Thanks for sharing - I'm about to install KS1000RW 80mm core sheeting on my 10m x 10m garage with apex roof so I'm looking for all the tips I can find! :) One question - is there a reason why you fixed your panels through the crown of the sheets and not in the valley? As far as I can tell from the Kingspan installation guide you normally fix through the valley except on the roof lights where you go through the crown and use saddle washers. On my installation, I have 10.4m along the apex so will need to cut the first sheet down to 0.2m, then I'll have 10 full sheets before ending with 0.2m from the other side of the first sheet I cut. I was worried about cutting the sheets since my circular saw only cuts 52mm deep but seeing the way you did the cut from the bottom and then from the top was useful to see that it can be done neatly. In case you're wondering why not just do a 0.4mm piece and then 10 full sheets, it's because I want my roof lights to be symmetrical about the centre, and also I'll be installing solar panels on the roof and they need to fit between the roof lights and gable ends in a particular way. Thanks again - very helpful.
You are welcome! Good luck with it!
I will dig out the guide I had followed for it, that did show the long fixings through the crown. The cutting was surprisingly easy, with that metal cutting blade. Just wear eye protection as you do get shards of metal.