Done brakes for decades why in the world would you want to open the bleeder valve???that is not necessary at all, once you do that then you let air into the brake lines & will have to do a complete brake bleed on all wheels creating extra work.. I tell anyone who is watching this video do not open up the bleeder valve it is completely unnecessary just replace the brakes & be sure to keep the master cylinder filled to the full line on the master cylinder reservoir.
@someguy503514 күн бұрын
Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing.
@KevinAtkins_Indiana24 күн бұрын
I've seen two main complaints with these one (I think) from installer or shipping errors, and the other, a possibly bad design... the first is, I think a lot of installers accidentally torque the nipples and ruin their seal inside to the top of the tank, or, they sweat copper to them in place, and melt the connection at the top of the tank... you avoided that nicely. (or, the tank is turned upside down during shipping, and the nipples are crushed inward). I mention all that because, when you moved the tank around about 16'30" into the video... I can see the nipples being flexed back and forth because your "flexible" lines are less flexy than the nipples... hopefully nothing got damaged then... it makes me want to use braided lines with even less rigidity there... The other complaint I've seen is that Rheem doesn't seem to have the vacuum relief valve dialed in right... a lot of people have leaks there -- it should only allow air *in*... but instead it lets water out...
@assyrequired23 күн бұрын
@@KevinAtkins_Indiana Good observations. Going on three years and no leaks but I can definitely see how damage to the nipples could occur more easily with a plastic tank. Careful install and braided lines seem like a good idea, especially if you live in an area prone to earthquakes.
@bretoner2Ай бұрын
Surprised to see your electric box outside
@assyrequired23 күн бұрын
@@bretoner2 I think it’s a regional thing, every home in the Phoenix metro is set up this way, it makes it easy for the fire dept to kill power
@user-fe5lr9zt3yАй бұрын
does electric tank require vacuum relief valve??
@assyrequired23 күн бұрын
@@user-fe5lr9zt3y You will find a water heater pressure relief valve on just about every standard hot water heater
@user-fe5lr9zt3y23 күн бұрын
@@assyrequired I was asking about "vacuum relief valve,not "pressure relief valve?
@assyrequired22 күн бұрын
@@user-fe5lr9zt3y Vacuum relief valves are only required for bottom fed water heaters (IPC 504.2). For the Marathon, the cold water line enters the top of the tank, so not required. I would verify this against local code in your region to be sure.
@user-fe5lr9zt3y22 күн бұрын
@@assyrequired thank you very much!
@mylight-27-1Ай бұрын
Your video is very helpful. I have one question about expansion tank, where I can find if my house water is open system or closed system? What back flow valve looks like? Thanks.
@assyrequiredАй бұрын
@@mylight-27-1 if you’re on a closed system, you will see an expansion tank already installed on your water heater on the cold input water line. I can’t attach a picture here, I suggest a quick Google search to get a sense of what they look like.
@chiefdan07Ай бұрын
I ended up buying the AmeriLite LED taillights just because they utilize all of the available space, even lighting up the lights attached to the trunk door
@jesusserrano7993Ай бұрын
👍
@kevincollado6077Ай бұрын
Awesome video just changed my breaks for the first time…appreciate the content
@assyrequiredАй бұрын
@@kevincollado6077 awesome!
@unclejsclubhouse4231Ай бұрын
Great video. Very thorough instructions. The only thing I noticed (That no one else mentioned).. The thread tape. I suggest not installing the thread tape all the way down past the last thread and into the opening. You could potentially have tape debris that can clog up something down the line. Put it all the way down with just the last thread exposed. Adding pipe dope may also be overkill.. But, I don't think that's negative. Just because I've never used both, doesn't mean you can't! None the less, good job. I'm jealous of your marathon.
@bearpuf2 ай бұрын
A very impressive tutorial and video for how to do this job. Your descriptions are very clear with fine suggestions. Thanks very much for a fine presentation.
@assyrequiredАй бұрын
Thank you!
@LarryBinFL2 ай бұрын
Not bad, but def needs a few comments: 1. There are bolt holes in the face of the rotor (at 12 & 6 o'clock in your video) that are there to pop the rotor off. You thread a (8mm?) bolt in the hole and screw it down and the rotor pops off. 2. As other's said, don't use the bleed screw, just push the fluid back into the master cylinder. And with your method, you now are low on brake fluid, and must add to get the level back up!!! 3. And as others said, do NOT push the cylinder with your C-Clamp; use an old pad so you do not damage the rubber gasket. 4. You might have emphasized that people MUST hang the caliper, and not let it dangle. 5. The rotor needs to be scrupulously clean!!!!!!!!!! Another reason to NOT use the bleed screw method, 6. People NEED to be warned that their brakes WILL NOT WORK until they step on the brake pedal a few times after replacing pads. Yes, you said to do it but people need to be warned that if they skip this and put the car in reverse, it will NOT be stopping!!!
@assyrequired2 ай бұрын
Good points. I’ve heard that pushing fluid back into the cylinder can damage ABS module, which is why I used the bleed screw. Is that accurate?
@RodGoodman-by2yj3 ай бұрын
How long did it take to heat up?
@assyrequired2 ай бұрын
Very quick for me, it was pumping out hot water a couple hours after filling, but I live in the Arizona desert with hot ambient temps
@harbourdogNL3 ай бұрын
Excellent. Getting a Marathon 40 gal next weekend so this was very informative, thanks!
@assyrequired3 ай бұрын
Hope the install goes smoothly!
@harbourdogNL3 ай бұрын
@@assyrequired Me too! I have a buddy who's a journeyman plumber so it should go well.
@ethanwomack64403 ай бұрын
Is it necessary to use the wear pads
@assyrequired3 ай бұрын
Apologies for the late reply. The brakes will function properly without the wear indicators (squealers), but I would install them so that you have warning before the pads become too worn to function properly.
@GlennSarsale4 ай бұрын
Great video! The plumbers in my area wanted to charge me $5k to replace my old elec HWH. Looking forward to purchasing this marathon model and installing it myself for significantly less.
@harbourdogNL3 ай бұрын
$5K??????
@fengrs5 ай бұрын
One thing to note, the caliper pins are different, length and tip. If they are in the right location both should be able to be compressed.
@assyrequired4 ай бұрын
Good information, thank you!
@mikemorgan27335 ай бұрын
you do realize that the 2 holes in the disc are threaded so you can screw the appropriate bolt in that will force the rotor off right?
@assyrequired4 ай бұрын
I did not realize, thank you!
@mikemorgan27335 ай бұрын
You did an excellent job on showing everthing needed to do this. Did you use Toyota rotors or an aftermarket brand?
@assyrequired4 ай бұрын
Apologies for the late response. It was a mid tier aftermarket option, I’m not convinced high performance top of the line parts are necessary.
@DerrickRandle-mv9ge5 ай бұрын
Very helpful,very helpful,i used your technique,with the bolts n wrench,to get the rotor off,I was having problems,and thought i actually had to go n rent a tool from the part store,but,thanks to your video,i worked like a charm,appreciate ya,it was giving me a headache 😮😮
@wingnutbert96855 ай бұрын
Good video dude. Better how-to vid than most out there. -For first time soldering pipe, good job. (I've see worse from pro's for sure!) Next time, crank your torch. Much more efficient. If close to a wall, you can soak a flat board and hang it from a nail as a wall guard. Or, if you have it, a piece of steel sheet, hung on a nail. Just keep the sheet a good inch off the wall. -Do yourself a huge favour: Thread on a 1' length of flex pipe onto the tanks bottom drain spigot! It saves a huge PITA trying to connect a garden hose to the valve as its really tight to the bottom of the tank. Have a second garden spigot at the other end so you can use that and leave the tank one open. Way, WAY easier to do the annual tank draining! Don't use rubber hose or plastic pipe as they can fail too easily. Good with metal like as the top of your tank or braided flex supply line, like used to hook up a dishwasher. And either lock out the valve, take the handle off or thread on a plug cap to prevent accidental valve opening.
@harbourdogNL3 ай бұрын
"Thread on a 1' length of flex pipe onto the tanks bottom drain spigot!" Excellent suggestion, thanks!!
@VOOODOOO376 ай бұрын
Great video. Liked the mechanical bolt system to press out the rotor. Most shop mechanics just sledge them off, which probably is ok, but more caveman like. I did crack the bleeder, made it easier to compress the cylinder, worked great. I never used to do that lol. Great tools list, saved me time hunting for stuff. This wasn't my car, so first time doing a Camry. The pad wires are cool, my cars don't have those.
@jamalaynuddin9718 ай бұрын
Good job 👏
@marcvslicinivscrassvs75368 ай бұрын
Dope vid
@keithb47149 ай бұрын
This is great, thank you. I especially like how you got the brake pads in! Please do a video when you change your rear brakes too! Thank you.
@bjay81979 ай бұрын
the holes on the rotor are for you to screw in a bolt that will help brake the rotor free :)
@skionen17819 ай бұрын
Excellent instructions thank you
@stevendiffy7689 ай бұрын
Well done!!!
@HomelessOnline10 ай бұрын
Very impressive video, very helpful and educational. Simple, too, for kids to understand.
@assyrequired10 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@williecunningham372510 ай бұрын
I watched other videos with people saying they are plumbers, but your video is more thorough and well instructed! I am not buying that expensive plastic tank water heater or doing any soldering , but your video is very informative!!!!!
@assyrequired10 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@emailkenny11 ай бұрын
This video saved me $1800.00 in installation charges. Installed a Marathon 50 Short yesterday. Thank you.
@assyrequired10 ай бұрын
Woo hoo!
@KrisqCS11 ай бұрын
classy review! keep it up🎉
@rfink22211 ай бұрын
Squirting brake fluid on your pads was not good, otherwise you did a good job for a first timer.
@Romu1us Жыл бұрын
What were the specs of the bolt and nuts needed for the rotor trick?
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
I used 3/8 in by 3 in long hex bolts with 3/8 nuts to pop the rotor off
@Romu1us Жыл бұрын
@@assyrequired thank u for the quick response!!
@blakewaddell451 Жыл бұрын
Great video. I’m a professional mechanic. I have done thousands of brake jobs. Your video is great. Just make sure to clean the hub with a wire brush or hub cleaning tool and use anti seize behind the rotor. One thing you did that I had never seen before was using the nuts and bolts to push against the back side of the rotor. Good idea. Normally when people take them off with bolts you drive them in with the two threaded holes in the front and it will pull it right off. Also my preferred method for compressing the piston is too just take loose the master cylinder cap and push them back like that. Keep the bleeder screw closed it’s a lot less mess. And definitely look into the right size wrench for the bleeder. Take it from me I’ve rounded off and broke off plenty of those before a precise wrench is a must. Just offering my suggestions for next time and that hopefully helps you out. I think it’s great to learn to fix your own car. 🙂
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
Thank you! Good tips and I will definitely use anti-seize next time. I read somewhere that keeping the bleeder closed and pushing fluid back could damage ABS system, not sure if that’s true but that’s why I did it that way.
@VOOODOOO376 ай бұрын
right on about anti seize on the rotor, I did that. Do the bleeder screws have to thread all the way in? or just back tight. I was afraid to break it, so made it snug. From what I have witnessed in garages, mechanics would take a 5lb hammer and just whack the rotor off, maybe not a great idea, but it works.
@VOOODOOO376 ай бұрын
I have heard that too. I used to just take the master cylinder cap off, but tried it your way and it worked nice. @@assyrequired
@blakewaddell4516 ай бұрын
@@VOOODOOO37 there should be like half the threads sticking out as long as it’s wrench tight your fine.
@VOOODOOO376 ай бұрын
awesome, thanks! @@blakewaddell451
@AbJoy05 Жыл бұрын
Please make a video on toyota avensis please
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
I would if I had that vehicle!
@MDcraftsman Жыл бұрын
Great video and very informative!
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@wiseman7597 Жыл бұрын
Why install all 5 lug nuts when removing the rotor? You only need to install one lug nut just by a few threads. Afraid of damaging the rotor face? Who cares! Your replacing it anyways, hit that sucker as hard as you can from the rear face
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
Haha fair point!
@hf6451 Жыл бұрын
This is awesome great help.
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
Glad it helped!
@KDTheCreator Жыл бұрын
First time changing my brakes and I did a great job thanks to you really appreciate it
@digitalcamaraderie5685 Жыл бұрын
My foot brake was on while changing rear brakes. Will that damage something?
@airfrieddolphin5041 Жыл бұрын
Thank you! first time I’ve changed my brakes and the only problem i had was two broken dust caps for my brake fluid.
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
Great to hear!
@joseleiva1262 Жыл бұрын
Thank you very helpful 👏🏻💪🏼🙏🏻
@mistermerita341 Жыл бұрын
I would compress the caliper piston first before installing the new pads and rotors. You probably contaminated the pads with brake fluid. Great video…
@goculturetv9376 Жыл бұрын
You sound like Joe Rogan
@ronchalmers5439 Жыл бұрын
I installed a Marathon 5 years ago. I must thank you for refreshing my memory on the connections as I will be installing another one in my rental unit this week. BTW I love the marathon tank!!! Hidden fact is electric hot water heaters last twice as along as gas...plumbers here in the Chicago are want $2200.00 to install a $499.00 6 years gas. (product cost....no thanks....just swapped out an electric one in a rental that was installed 23 years ago....have another electric one bought in 1998 still going strong....lucky I get 6 years out of my gas water heater.
@toyotabrony Жыл бұрын
I’m lookin at either auxbeam,auxito, or these lasfit 7443R brake light bulb: The lasfit are excellent with 700 lumens. But for a pair of $56. U get what u paid for. But auxito has a lot more options that less bright than this but still brighter than stock. And some from auxito has 1600 lumens: I feel like the 700 lumens is still enough lumens and enough red intensity for red lens. Just price completely difference. 😊
@aziaazia540 Жыл бұрын
Very good video very clear thank you
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
You’re very welcome!
@johncali9 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much
@assyrequired Жыл бұрын
Glad it helped!
@gilgarza2903 Жыл бұрын
Next time just remove the cap from the break master cylinder, it'll relieve the brake line pressure and you can compress the brake cylinder A LOT easier.
Пікірлер
Done brakes for decades why in the world would you want to open the bleeder valve???that is not necessary at all, once you do that then you let air into the brake lines & will have to do a complete brake bleed on all wheels creating extra work.. I tell anyone who is watching this video do not open up the bleeder valve it is completely unnecessary just replace the brakes & be sure to keep the master cylinder filled to the full line on the master cylinder reservoir.
Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing.
I've seen two main complaints with these one (I think) from installer or shipping errors, and the other, a possibly bad design... the first is, I think a lot of installers accidentally torque the nipples and ruin their seal inside to the top of the tank, or, they sweat copper to them in place, and melt the connection at the top of the tank... you avoided that nicely. (or, the tank is turned upside down during shipping, and the nipples are crushed inward). I mention all that because, when you moved the tank around about 16'30" into the video... I can see the nipples being flexed back and forth because your "flexible" lines are less flexy than the nipples... hopefully nothing got damaged then... it makes me want to use braided lines with even less rigidity there... The other complaint I've seen is that Rheem doesn't seem to have the vacuum relief valve dialed in right... a lot of people have leaks there -- it should only allow air *in*... but instead it lets water out...
@@KevinAtkins_Indiana Good observations. Going on three years and no leaks but I can definitely see how damage to the nipples could occur more easily with a plastic tank. Careful install and braided lines seem like a good idea, especially if you live in an area prone to earthquakes.
Surprised to see your electric box outside
@@bretoner2 I think it’s a regional thing, every home in the Phoenix metro is set up this way, it makes it easy for the fire dept to kill power
does electric tank require vacuum relief valve??
@@user-fe5lr9zt3y You will find a water heater pressure relief valve on just about every standard hot water heater
@@assyrequired I was asking about "vacuum relief valve,not "pressure relief valve?
@@user-fe5lr9zt3y Vacuum relief valves are only required for bottom fed water heaters (IPC 504.2). For the Marathon, the cold water line enters the top of the tank, so not required. I would verify this against local code in your region to be sure.
@@assyrequired thank you very much!
Your video is very helpful. I have one question about expansion tank, where I can find if my house water is open system or closed system? What back flow valve looks like? Thanks.
@@mylight-27-1 if you’re on a closed system, you will see an expansion tank already installed on your water heater on the cold input water line. I can’t attach a picture here, I suggest a quick Google search to get a sense of what they look like.
I ended up buying the AmeriLite LED taillights just because they utilize all of the available space, even lighting up the lights attached to the trunk door
👍
Awesome video just changed my breaks for the first time…appreciate the content
@@kevincollado6077 awesome!
Great video. Very thorough instructions. The only thing I noticed (That no one else mentioned).. The thread tape. I suggest not installing the thread tape all the way down past the last thread and into the opening. You could potentially have tape debris that can clog up something down the line. Put it all the way down with just the last thread exposed. Adding pipe dope may also be overkill.. But, I don't think that's negative. Just because I've never used both, doesn't mean you can't! None the less, good job. I'm jealous of your marathon.
A very impressive tutorial and video for how to do this job. Your descriptions are very clear with fine suggestions. Thanks very much for a fine presentation.
Thank you!
Not bad, but def needs a few comments: 1. There are bolt holes in the face of the rotor (at 12 & 6 o'clock in your video) that are there to pop the rotor off. You thread a (8mm?) bolt in the hole and screw it down and the rotor pops off. 2. As other's said, don't use the bleed screw, just push the fluid back into the master cylinder. And with your method, you now are low on brake fluid, and must add to get the level back up!!! 3. And as others said, do NOT push the cylinder with your C-Clamp; use an old pad so you do not damage the rubber gasket. 4. You might have emphasized that people MUST hang the caliper, and not let it dangle. 5. The rotor needs to be scrupulously clean!!!!!!!!!! Another reason to NOT use the bleed screw method, 6. People NEED to be warned that their brakes WILL NOT WORK until they step on the brake pedal a few times after replacing pads. Yes, you said to do it but people need to be warned that if they skip this and put the car in reverse, it will NOT be stopping!!!
Good points. I’ve heard that pushing fluid back into the cylinder can damage ABS module, which is why I used the bleed screw. Is that accurate?
How long did it take to heat up?
Very quick for me, it was pumping out hot water a couple hours after filling, but I live in the Arizona desert with hot ambient temps
Excellent. Getting a Marathon 40 gal next weekend so this was very informative, thanks!
Hope the install goes smoothly!
@@assyrequired Me too! I have a buddy who's a journeyman plumber so it should go well.
Is it necessary to use the wear pads
Apologies for the late reply. The brakes will function properly without the wear indicators (squealers), but I would install them so that you have warning before the pads become too worn to function properly.
Great video! The plumbers in my area wanted to charge me $5k to replace my old elec HWH. Looking forward to purchasing this marathon model and installing it myself for significantly less.
$5K??????
One thing to note, the caliper pins are different, length and tip. If they are in the right location both should be able to be compressed.
Good information, thank you!
you do realize that the 2 holes in the disc are threaded so you can screw the appropriate bolt in that will force the rotor off right?
I did not realize, thank you!
You did an excellent job on showing everthing needed to do this. Did you use Toyota rotors or an aftermarket brand?
Apologies for the late response. It was a mid tier aftermarket option, I’m not convinced high performance top of the line parts are necessary.
Very helpful,very helpful,i used your technique,with the bolts n wrench,to get the rotor off,I was having problems,and thought i actually had to go n rent a tool from the part store,but,thanks to your video,i worked like a charm,appreciate ya,it was giving me a headache 😮😮
Good video dude. Better how-to vid than most out there. -For first time soldering pipe, good job. (I've see worse from pro's for sure!) Next time, crank your torch. Much more efficient. If close to a wall, you can soak a flat board and hang it from a nail as a wall guard. Or, if you have it, a piece of steel sheet, hung on a nail. Just keep the sheet a good inch off the wall. -Do yourself a huge favour: Thread on a 1' length of flex pipe onto the tanks bottom drain spigot! It saves a huge PITA trying to connect a garden hose to the valve as its really tight to the bottom of the tank. Have a second garden spigot at the other end so you can use that and leave the tank one open. Way, WAY easier to do the annual tank draining! Don't use rubber hose or plastic pipe as they can fail too easily. Good with metal like as the top of your tank or braided flex supply line, like used to hook up a dishwasher. And either lock out the valve, take the handle off or thread on a plug cap to prevent accidental valve opening.
"Thread on a 1' length of flex pipe onto the tanks bottom drain spigot!" Excellent suggestion, thanks!!
Great video. Liked the mechanical bolt system to press out the rotor. Most shop mechanics just sledge them off, which probably is ok, but more caveman like. I did crack the bleeder, made it easier to compress the cylinder, worked great. I never used to do that lol. Great tools list, saved me time hunting for stuff. This wasn't my car, so first time doing a Camry. The pad wires are cool, my cars don't have those.
Good job 👏
Dope vid
This is great, thank you. I especially like how you got the brake pads in! Please do a video when you change your rear brakes too! Thank you.
the holes on the rotor are for you to screw in a bolt that will help brake the rotor free :)
Excellent instructions thank you
Well done!!!
Very impressive video, very helpful and educational. Simple, too, for kids to understand.
Thank you!
I watched other videos with people saying they are plumbers, but your video is more thorough and well instructed! I am not buying that expensive plastic tank water heater or doing any soldering , but your video is very informative!!!!!
Thank you!
This video saved me $1800.00 in installation charges. Installed a Marathon 50 Short yesterday. Thank you.
Woo hoo!
classy review! keep it up🎉
Squirting brake fluid on your pads was not good, otherwise you did a good job for a first timer.
What were the specs of the bolt and nuts needed for the rotor trick?
I used 3/8 in by 3 in long hex bolts with 3/8 nuts to pop the rotor off
@@assyrequired thank u for the quick response!!
Great video. I’m a professional mechanic. I have done thousands of brake jobs. Your video is great. Just make sure to clean the hub with a wire brush or hub cleaning tool and use anti seize behind the rotor. One thing you did that I had never seen before was using the nuts and bolts to push against the back side of the rotor. Good idea. Normally when people take them off with bolts you drive them in with the two threaded holes in the front and it will pull it right off. Also my preferred method for compressing the piston is too just take loose the master cylinder cap and push them back like that. Keep the bleeder screw closed it’s a lot less mess. And definitely look into the right size wrench for the bleeder. Take it from me I’ve rounded off and broke off plenty of those before a precise wrench is a must. Just offering my suggestions for next time and that hopefully helps you out. I think it’s great to learn to fix your own car. 🙂
Thank you! Good tips and I will definitely use anti-seize next time. I read somewhere that keeping the bleeder closed and pushing fluid back could damage ABS system, not sure if that’s true but that’s why I did it that way.
right on about anti seize on the rotor, I did that. Do the bleeder screws have to thread all the way in? or just back tight. I was afraid to break it, so made it snug. From what I have witnessed in garages, mechanics would take a 5lb hammer and just whack the rotor off, maybe not a great idea, but it works.
I have heard that too. I used to just take the master cylinder cap off, but tried it your way and it worked nice. @@assyrequired
@@VOOODOOO37 there should be like half the threads sticking out as long as it’s wrench tight your fine.
awesome, thanks! @@blakewaddell451
Please make a video on toyota avensis please
I would if I had that vehicle!
Great video and very informative!
Thank you!
Why install all 5 lug nuts when removing the rotor? You only need to install one lug nut just by a few threads. Afraid of damaging the rotor face? Who cares! Your replacing it anyways, hit that sucker as hard as you can from the rear face
Haha fair point!
This is awesome great help.
Glad it helped!
First time changing my brakes and I did a great job thanks to you really appreciate it
My foot brake was on while changing rear brakes. Will that damage something?
Thank you! first time I’ve changed my brakes and the only problem i had was two broken dust caps for my brake fluid.
Great to hear!
Thank you very helpful 👏🏻💪🏼🙏🏻
I would compress the caliper piston first before installing the new pads and rotors. You probably contaminated the pads with brake fluid. Great video…
You sound like Joe Rogan
I installed a Marathon 5 years ago. I must thank you for refreshing my memory on the connections as I will be installing another one in my rental unit this week. BTW I love the marathon tank!!! Hidden fact is electric hot water heaters last twice as along as gas...plumbers here in the Chicago are want $2200.00 to install a $499.00 6 years gas. (product cost....no thanks....just swapped out an electric one in a rental that was installed 23 years ago....have another electric one bought in 1998 still going strong....lucky I get 6 years out of my gas water heater.
I’m lookin at either auxbeam,auxito, or these lasfit 7443R brake light bulb: The lasfit are excellent with 700 lumens. But for a pair of $56. U get what u paid for. But auxito has a lot more options that less bright than this but still brighter than stock. And some from auxito has 1600 lumens: I feel like the 700 lumens is still enough lumens and enough red intensity for red lens. Just price completely difference. 😊
Very good video very clear thank you
You’re very welcome!
Thank you so much
Glad it helped!
Next time just remove the cap from the break master cylinder, it'll relieve the brake line pressure and you can compress the brake cylinder A LOT easier.
Thank you!