I'm not at my shop so I can't give you an exact measurement until Monday. I usually set my work areas a little higher so that they're comfortable for me. You don't want to be bending over, not even slightly, at work areas. I can tell you this for sure; set it high enough that, should a piece of metal ever kick out towards you, it hits above the important stuff, if you know what I mean. I never really understood why the height of my table saw was at that height until a piece of wood shot back at me, hitting me about 2 inches above my ... well, you get my drift.
@elnmrouno Жыл бұрын
Did you used 14 or 16 gauge for the frame?
@haphhhazard Жыл бұрын
The thinnest gauge I could get, which for me is about 1/8th inch thick.
@freeidaho-videos Жыл бұрын
Nice saw. Good job Wifee. One simplifying thought. When I did mine, instead of putting a rod up from the bottom for your turntable to spin on, extend the bolt that the vice pivots on, so that it goes through the turntable. This eliminates all alignment issues with the pivot of the vice and the pivot of the turntable. Welding up next to sheet rock is no problem. It was invented as a fire barrier. I love the height!
@haphhhazard Жыл бұрын
I like your pivot idea. That does simplify it. Welding near the sheetrock wasn't my concern, however, welding up against the paint that was covering the sheetrock is whole other discussion, and as a career firefighter, I would recommend against it. ;)
@freeidaho-videos Жыл бұрын
@@haphhhazard Thank you for your service!
@xzhao742 жыл бұрын
*Remember that this saw needs to have adjustments made to make 0 or 90 cuts accurately **MyBest.Tools** I had to use a right angle on the deck and blade and then adjust the bolt to get the correct reading. Once this is done, it works great.*
@MrChickenking442 жыл бұрын
Does the pívot point have to be where the bolt is on the fence? Will it make your back stop the same when changing the angle?
@haphhhazard2 жыл бұрын
Yes.... I think. In my video I refer to it as the pivot point of the jaws. You may be more accurate when you refer to it as the pivot point of the "FENCE" . When you change the angle of the cut, there are two bolts that you have to loosen. One is in the arced slot, and one is where the pivot point of the fence is. That pivot point needs to be directly over and centered on the pivot point of your rotating table. That way, as you change the angle of the fence, you can rotate the table until your material rests perfectly where it was resting at other angles. I hope this clears it up.
@MrChickenking442 жыл бұрын
@@haphhhazard thanks dude for the reply, gonna gives this a go myself. Just wasn’t to sure on the pivot point thanks 🙏
@haphhhazard2 жыл бұрын
@@MrChickenking44 No problem. Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck!
@juane62 жыл бұрын
Great job! It's inspiring! Thanks!
@haphhhazard2 жыл бұрын
You're welcome. So many others on KZread have done the same for me!
@paulfixesstuff10592 жыл бұрын
I’ve had the same idea for the Kreg Trak miter fence. I’m glad you made a video so I can see how you built it. Thanks!
@garywedemeyer41312 жыл бұрын
One thing I would change in my design; don't use MDF or any plywood for the base. Because of expansion and contraction of wood due to moisture, the saw is not always perfectly flush with the fence table. I am going to rebuild mine so that the saw support and the table are all metal with no expansion issues.
@kr52893 жыл бұрын
I try using assembling table/outfeed table combo, and every time I need to saw long material I have to clear off the assembling table.
@haphhhazard3 жыл бұрын
Lol KR, I think I know what you mean. If I’m correct, your shop suffers from a very common ailment; it’s known as “FlatSurfaceCongregate-Itis” In other words if you build a flat surface, crap will automatically congregate there. Once your shop has this ailment it’s almost impossible to get rid of. In fact mine spread to my welding table and wood mitre saw station.
@scipiony3 жыл бұрын
I made one for my slugger that should of been done this way. Thanks for the idea and thanks for making me look stupid once again
@haphhhazard3 жыл бұрын
Saying that I made you look stupid "again" implies that I have done it on more than one occasion. By all means please allow to apologize. And, if it makes you feel any better, know that on just about every project I have ever done, there were numerous times during that project where I too, felt stupid.
@jonbozzy96004 жыл бұрын
How long does the blade last?
@haphhhazard4 жыл бұрын
It depends on how well you treat it, but so far I can't complain. I got a lot of cuts on my first blade even after knocking a few teeth off it. That first blade made a lot of cuts, both thick and thin wall. It will last longer than you might think.
@alsraj66214 жыл бұрын
good job
@haphhhazard4 жыл бұрын
Thank you. I say it all the time when I get a post on this video; If you're thinking about getting a cold cut saw--- DO IT!!! They are fantastic. If you're thinking about making a work station--- DO IT!!! Your back will thank you.
@sd7676334 жыл бұрын
Ockafied my ass that's a clean set up. hit it with some red or green paint so you can discern what's scrap and what's rack. I like that you even got thus plastic caps on the LT side so you don chew yourself up pulling material from the horizontal storage. Hay has the turn table stayed tru with use?
@haphhhazard3 жыл бұрын
Hey KungFuGripDave, sorry it took me so long to reply, I never saw your post. If I could do it all over again I would choose a flat piece of steel instead of the MDF. MDF expands and contracts and thusly throws off your height by a smidge. Not enough to truly affect it much, but enough to annoy me cuz I spent so much dang time aligning everything. As far as the trueness of the blade itself and continuing to cut a true 90, I can't complain at all.
@mannyfilmsinc4 жыл бұрын
This is a great set up. My only concern is the stop and the clamp on the saw working together. The workpiece being cut has no way to go, as shown in the video, it jumps a little. That creates a dangerous situation. Maybe you can do a flip stop or space it with a removable piece.
@haphhhazard4 жыл бұрын
Manny,You are absolutely correct. I would not advise that stop. The rail that the stop rides upon is nice for clamping some type of stop to. But, as Manny points out, the metal stop I created does not allow for the metal to shift once the cut is complete. It actually caused me to knock a few teeth off of my blade. What I do now is clamp a 1/4" thick piece of MDF sitting flat on the supports. So far I haven't had the same issue, but, and this is an important but, I also let the blade come to a complete stop before raising it. As another solution, I just draw a mark on the rail for where to stop the material. Be careful out there.
@haphhhazard7 ай бұрын
I'm going to add even more info on this. I did start using that 1/4" wood and it too, can make the metal bind. So, this is how I do it now and have never had an issue. I take that same 1/4 piece of flexible MDF and use it as a stop for my repeated cuts. I clamp the MDF to one of my supports, however, before I make the cut, I place a small piece of wood between the MDF and another support, so it keeps the MDF completely away from the edge of the metal to be cut. When I go to make my next cut, I remove the small piece of wood and use the MDF to set my length and then I repeat. Bottom line don't have anything up against the outside edge of what you're cutting. You want that metal to be able to shift as the cut is completed, otherwise you risk a jam up that might mess your sawblade up or worse.
@thoughtsfrom3am9195 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the know how on how to build this chop saw table... You have helped me out heaps on how to build mine in my shop .... Cheers bud .... From Australia...
@haphhhazard5 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear that it helped. I use the @#&@ out of mine. Just a couple things I might do differently than in the video. I think you can see towards the end of the video that I installed some small wooden chip deflectors. I would make those bigger with perhaps some type of catch basin below. This saw is amazing but those little chips fly everywhere. Also, the angle iron stops I made- don’t make a heavy duty metal stop like I did. It actually can make the metal catch on the blade after the cut, possibly ruining your cut piece and taking a tooth or two from your blade. Now I use the angle iron and a small piece of wood for the stop and I also let the saw come to a complete stop before raising it. Other than that I wouldn’t change a thing. Thanks for watching.
@joedelasko78775 жыл бұрын
Tip: Pan slowly... move the camera slowly... It'll make videos much better!
@user-se2pj9ci9o5 жыл бұрын
хрю му, гавно нагородил
@garywedemeyer41315 жыл бұрын
Just an update. I love love love the saw. If you ever build something like this, don't waste your time putting on those stops that I made. It's just as easy (easier) to clamp a piece of wood to your supports for repeated cuts. I would consider using a metal plate to mount the saw to instead of MDF. MDF, like all wood expands and contracts. It's not enough to truly effect the cut much, but it's enough to annoy a guy like me who spent a lot of time ensuring the table height matched my support height perfectly. I have made hundreds and hundreds of cuts on this saw, both thick and thin material. It is still cutting fantastically. Having that permanent work station makes is so dang easy. For those of you thinking of some type of bearing, don't waste your money. After a few cuts, rotate the saw table over the top of a few of the metal flakes. It's what happened naturally as I used the table and those little flakes that are small enough to wiggle their way between the table and the support frame kinda act like little baby bearings. They make it rotate super easy.
@tray84115 жыл бұрын
Very cool
@lobo2011ny5 жыл бұрын
This is I was looking for
@ibrahimnajajrah62935 жыл бұрын
فكرة رائعة 👌🖒🖒🖒
@sneakysnake1095 жыл бұрын
I like it, but it's so close to the wall you may get sparks thrown back away you. Might need some more of that ABS behind the saw to protect the wall
@garywedemeyer41315 жыл бұрын
I've used it a lot and have not noticed any damage to the wall or anything sticking to the wall. I would recommend putting up some deflectors along the side to at least keep the chips under the saw. Otherwise they definitely spread around. Even an entire catch system under the saw would be nice. Something else that occurs from the chips, which, Ironically, ends up being a good thing; they get in between the metal frame and the ABS sheeting as you rotate it around. It actually makes it spin around quite nicely, almost like little mini bearings. I am thoroughly satisfied with the saw. I have made a lot of cuts with it and it is still cutting very nicely.
@sd7676334 жыл бұрын
The saw he has does a really good job with the hot sparks off the back. Its not like the Dewalt rigs their Firestarter's.
@LemonySnicket-EUC3 жыл бұрын
This saw doesn't throw much fire
5 жыл бұрын
45º?
@andyebbers83825 жыл бұрын
excellent idea, excellent video, thank you!
@haphhhazard5 жыл бұрын
You're welcome.
@chrisanderson41595 жыл бұрын
hey why dont u use a bearing from a car
@chrisanderson41595 жыл бұрын
really like the design def gonna steal that from ya got same saw 2
@garywedemeyer41315 жыл бұрын
The saw is a heavy SOB all by itself, but when you add metal to it, it gets even heavier. So if you design a bearing system into your table, that means the table will only be supported where the bearing is attached. The rest will have to be floating free so that it actually rotates. Put some thought into making sure its a beefy table if the corners cant be supported.
@chrisanderson41595 жыл бұрын
its a nice table i wouldn't have watched it or even commented if it wasn't nice it is heavy as hell i spent like a good month trying to decide which 1 to get and Ur wife got u this one how did she choose. I get shit stolen on Christmas
@garywedemeyer41315 жыл бұрын
Chris, sorry to hear you get "shit" stolen at Christmas. Perhaps you should leave a note telling Santa to put your packages in a safer place. I have a friend who is a legitimate engineer and iron guy. He recommended the saw brand to my wife. I love it. Nothing nicer than needing to cut some steel and walking over to your already set up saw just waiting to slice through it for you.
@johnsabarese71035 жыл бұрын
Nice job!! That’s definitely a possible solution to my problem. “Okafied” where in Oklahoma are you at? I’m in Yukon
@jamescatlett95966 жыл бұрын
Awesome Video. I was wanting to do the same but wasn't sure how to do it. I like what you have done. Thank you!
@haphhhazard6 жыл бұрын
You're welcome. Work station = no back issues.
@TheBjcorne6 жыл бұрын
Nice job. Predrilling bottom layer great idea. I like the fact you already know that turning the L-angle towards the back is an improvement. Keep it up.
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
Thanks William. I gotta say, being at a point in my life where I can finally have that saw set up in it's own work station is fantastic. It is so nice to just walk up to it and cut.
@bongobill20006 жыл бұрын
Can you explain to me why you mentioned leaving a gap around your track so the clamps would spin and so the blocks would work... I’m building a table and never heard this before...thanks
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
The clamps that ride in that track wont rotate 360 degrees if you make the slots in the top of your table the exact same width as the extruded aluminum track because the back of the clamp overhangs that Track by about a 1/4". Also, those little black blocks that ride in the track for doing face frame, overhang the track by about a 1/2". Hopefully that makes sense.
@Saiserk6 жыл бұрын
Hi man! we have practically same ammount of suscribers! want to do a colaboration? I like your kind of videos, they are interesting
@UnpimpYourAuto6 жыл бұрын
Nice job! I just got a Skilsaw version of this, and I decided I needed something pretty much exactly like this. My original plan was to make the base that the saw attached to metal plate, but the wood should do just fine and be much cheaper. However, I was thinking of using a Lazy Susan bearing system for the rotation. I'm also planning to have a tab come off of the base plate where I can clamp the base at the desired angle.Thanks for posting this. It's going to help a lot when I build mine. :-)
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
You're welcome. Yeah, I also thought of using a flange bearing or a Lazy Susan. I think if you have it on a smooth turning bearing you will need those clamps you mentioned. Truthfully, after using it for a while now, I wouldn't put bearings in it. Rotating it is a breeze and it tends to stay in place perfectly. Keep in mind though, I did put that PVC sheeting in between the wood and the metal. Wood against metal without the PVC, you prob want you bearing in there. I love that saw and the setup. So dang nice just having it there ready to go. And so quick to cut. You're gonna love it!
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
One more thing about adding a bearing. I felt it was important to keep the wood table supported at all corners. The saw is a heavy SOB all by itself, but when you add metal to it, it gets even heavier. So if you design a bearing system into your table, that means the wood will only be supported where the bearing is attached. The rest will have to be floating free so that it actually rotates. Put some thought into making sure its a beefy table if the corners cant be supported.
@facesmasher42166 жыл бұрын
you talk a lot without any action at all. what's goin on with you bro?
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
You want action, go to the movie theater.
@rmhutchins76 жыл бұрын
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
@haphhhazard6 жыл бұрын
You're welcome.
@dennisrose406 жыл бұрын
Gary, where’d you buy the 1/4” PVC? I’ve googled but cant find it. Nice video, thx.
@haphhhazard6 жыл бұрын
Hey Dennis, I'm in Fresno, Ca. There are at least two businesses that sell it here. This is their website, precisionplasticsinc.com/services/material-sales.php You can search the internet and even ebay, look at this 24" X 48" www.ebay.com/itm/Made-in-USA-48-x-24-x-1-4-Inch-PVC-Plastic-Sheet-Gray/282802562019?hash=item41d858a3e3:g:HdYAAOSwmNxaVB-d It will most likely be cheaper if you can find a plastic manufacturer/ fabricator in a town near you. You could also use 1/8" thickness PVC which obviously costs less. Just make sure the rest of the material that you recess the Kreg Trac in to equals 3/4".Gary
@ricafe6 жыл бұрын
Nice setup!
@4130ChassisWerks6 жыл бұрын
great idea on making the table turn, might nedd to do something like that in my shop. thanks for sharing.
@haphhhazard6 жыл бұрын
You're welcome. I use the daylights out of it.
@charless86416 жыл бұрын
Excellent table, very impressive. I don’t have a need for this elaborate of a setup, but I am thinking of a smaller unit that would meet my needs. Thank You, for taking the time to make a great video.
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
You're welcome.
@annataylor26076 жыл бұрын
Wow
@Danielop7216 жыл бұрын
Good work ¡¡¡¡ Excellent idea ¡¡¡¡ Thanks for sharing your knowledge. From Uruguay, Daniel.
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
You're welcome.
@scipiony6 жыл бұрын
How good is that
@mururoa70246 жыл бұрын
Filming tip: hold your phone horizontally to match the image format on youtube and avoid the narrow view.
@garywedemeyer41316 жыл бұрын
I am an old-ish guy. Not tech savy. I have taken your criticism to heart and will film in panoramic from now on.
@dennisrose406 жыл бұрын
Sorry, I disagree. This leads to a smaller view if the watcher does not turn their phone or tablet to horizontal.
@faustinomartinez67446 жыл бұрын
Esta bueno el soporte para metal claro ay diferente uso Saludos.
@JB917107 жыл бұрын
Roof or Vertical Venting Does Not Work as Imagined. It only risks lives, damages the roof and helps to burn it off. A house is Not a chimney and can't work like one. Too many "Dampers" like ceilings, floors, walls and doors! The real reason it doesn't work is that the fire that was smoldering in the attic has now been fueled with fresh air and has erupted into an inferno which creates an enormous amount of pressure in that confined space. The hole they cut cannot release all that pressure so you have now created a Cork in the top of Your chimney. Heat from below can't escape Through the tight ceiling to get into the attic and the pressure wouldn't allow it even if there Was a hole in the ceiling. "Find what is burning and put water on it! If you can't see it, find it and put water on it. Horizontally vent if it gets hot along the way and cool the ceiling gasses with a spray of water. Most importantly, THINK don't just Follow what instructors Tell you.
@haphhhazard7 жыл бұрын
Well, let's see, I've been a firefighter for dang near 34 years now, 27 with the city or Fresno. Been a captain since 1999. I'd be willing to bet that I've been inside on fire attack at least a couple hundred times and that is being quite liberal. I can honestly say that vertical vent has never made my situation worse on the inside, whether that vertical vent was started just before I entered, 30 seconds before I entered, or after I entered ( I know that goes against what SLICER-S says. I can also say, which contradicts what JB91710 had to say, that vertical vent most certainly HAS worked fantastically for me and my crew on many, many occasions, making both visibility and amount of heat felt, much better. Cut a properly placed heat hole, and punch through the sheetrock below, and BINGO, it works exactly like a chimney. If you want proof, vent a structure fire where the fire hasn't penetrated inside the attic of the structure yet, punch through the sheet rock, and then stand back and tell me there isn't some good smoke and heat production out of that hole. If there isn't, your truck company probably didn't vent in the right place, or didn't punch through properly, or there are multiple layers of roof structure (not topping).Want even more proof, kick a fan on at the front door after that heat hole has been properly made. Make sure fire attack knows you're going to light up the fan first though!!! Then watch a rocket engine shoot out of the hole. A lot of folks get scared by that rocket engine. They think it means you just ignited the entire attic by introducing fresh air. To that I say BULL SH__! What you did was give the heat and smoke and unburned fuel a place to go and then you pressurized it to hurry the process. Please, for the sake of us interior fire attack crews, continue to ventilate.
@kevinjohnson71776 жыл бұрын
JB91 is probably just a pumper pussy. Not everyone is cut out to ride on a Pegasus ( aka a ladder truck)
@bp19813174 жыл бұрын
Absolute garbage comment. Vertical ventilation performed with coordinated fire attack by far does the most good for victims trapped as well as interior crews operating. The SLICE-RS thought is all the rage and the UL studies are often quoted. But, the reality is...we give up distance for time burning while on the roof. We also coordinate our interior crews with those cutting holes topside. It absolutely works and is by no means something that is warranted on every single fire , but is something that seems to be working well for our Fire Departments out west. Getting an, “all clear” on a primary in a matter of a couple minutes in a single family dwelling vs taking 10 to do the same thing without vertical ventilation. If that was my family’s house, I want that smoke up and out of there. Plain and simple.
Пікірлер
What’s the height at deck level?
I'm not at my shop so I can't give you an exact measurement until Monday. I usually set my work areas a little higher so that they're comfortable for me. You don't want to be bending over, not even slightly, at work areas. I can tell you this for sure; set it high enough that, should a piece of metal ever kick out towards you, it hits above the important stuff, if you know what I mean. I never really understood why the height of my table saw was at that height until a piece of wood shot back at me, hitting me about 2 inches above my ... well, you get my drift.
Did you used 14 or 16 gauge for the frame?
The thinnest gauge I could get, which for me is about 1/8th inch thick.
Nice saw. Good job Wifee. One simplifying thought. When I did mine, instead of putting a rod up from the bottom for your turntable to spin on, extend the bolt that the vice pivots on, so that it goes through the turntable. This eliminates all alignment issues with the pivot of the vice and the pivot of the turntable. Welding up next to sheet rock is no problem. It was invented as a fire barrier. I love the height!
I like your pivot idea. That does simplify it. Welding near the sheetrock wasn't my concern, however, welding up against the paint that was covering the sheetrock is whole other discussion, and as a career firefighter, I would recommend against it. ;)
@@haphhhazard Thank you for your service!
*Remember that this saw needs to have adjustments made to make 0 or 90 cuts accurately **MyBest.Tools** I had to use a right angle on the deck and blade and then adjust the bolt to get the correct reading. Once this is done, it works great.*
Does the pívot point have to be where the bolt is on the fence? Will it make your back stop the same when changing the angle?
Yes.... I think. In my video I refer to it as the pivot point of the jaws. You may be more accurate when you refer to it as the pivot point of the "FENCE" . When you change the angle of the cut, there are two bolts that you have to loosen. One is in the arced slot, and one is where the pivot point of the fence is. That pivot point needs to be directly over and centered on the pivot point of your rotating table. That way, as you change the angle of the fence, you can rotate the table until your material rests perfectly where it was resting at other angles. I hope this clears it up.
@@haphhhazard thanks dude for the reply, gonna gives this a go myself. Just wasn’t to sure on the pivot point thanks 🙏
@@MrChickenking44 No problem. Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. Good luck!
Great job! It's inspiring! Thanks!
You're welcome. So many others on KZread have done the same for me!
I’ve had the same idea for the Kreg Trak miter fence. I’m glad you made a video so I can see how you built it. Thanks!
One thing I would change in my design; don't use MDF or any plywood for the base. Because of expansion and contraction of wood due to moisture, the saw is not always perfectly flush with the fence table. I am going to rebuild mine so that the saw support and the table are all metal with no expansion issues.
I try using assembling table/outfeed table combo, and every time I need to saw long material I have to clear off the assembling table.
Lol KR, I think I know what you mean. If I’m correct, your shop suffers from a very common ailment; it’s known as “FlatSurfaceCongregate-Itis” In other words if you build a flat surface, crap will automatically congregate there. Once your shop has this ailment it’s almost impossible to get rid of. In fact mine spread to my welding table and wood mitre saw station.
I made one for my slugger that should of been done this way. Thanks for the idea and thanks for making me look stupid once again
Saying that I made you look stupid "again" implies that I have done it on more than one occasion. By all means please allow to apologize. And, if it makes you feel any better, know that on just about every project I have ever done, there were numerous times during that project where I too, felt stupid.
How long does the blade last?
It depends on how well you treat it, but so far I can't complain. I got a lot of cuts on my first blade even after knocking a few teeth off it. That first blade made a lot of cuts, both thick and thin wall. It will last longer than you might think.
good job
Thank you. I say it all the time when I get a post on this video; If you're thinking about getting a cold cut saw--- DO IT!!! They are fantastic. If you're thinking about making a work station--- DO IT!!! Your back will thank you.
Ockafied my ass that's a clean set up. hit it with some red or green paint so you can discern what's scrap and what's rack. I like that you even got thus plastic caps on the LT side so you don chew yourself up pulling material from the horizontal storage. Hay has the turn table stayed tru with use?
Hey KungFuGripDave, sorry it took me so long to reply, I never saw your post. If I could do it all over again I would choose a flat piece of steel instead of the MDF. MDF expands and contracts and thusly throws off your height by a smidge. Not enough to truly affect it much, but enough to annoy me cuz I spent so much dang time aligning everything. As far as the trueness of the blade itself and continuing to cut a true 90, I can't complain at all.
This is a great set up. My only concern is the stop and the clamp on the saw working together. The workpiece being cut has no way to go, as shown in the video, it jumps a little. That creates a dangerous situation. Maybe you can do a flip stop or space it with a removable piece.
Manny,You are absolutely correct. I would not advise that stop. The rail that the stop rides upon is nice for clamping some type of stop to. But, as Manny points out, the metal stop I created does not allow for the metal to shift once the cut is complete. It actually caused me to knock a few teeth off of my blade. What I do now is clamp a 1/4" thick piece of MDF sitting flat on the supports. So far I haven't had the same issue, but, and this is an important but, I also let the blade come to a complete stop before raising it. As another solution, I just draw a mark on the rail for where to stop the material. Be careful out there.
I'm going to add even more info on this. I did start using that 1/4" wood and it too, can make the metal bind. So, this is how I do it now and have never had an issue. I take that same 1/4 piece of flexible MDF and use it as a stop for my repeated cuts. I clamp the MDF to one of my supports, however, before I make the cut, I place a small piece of wood between the MDF and another support, so it keeps the MDF completely away from the edge of the metal to be cut. When I go to make my next cut, I remove the small piece of wood and use the MDF to set my length and then I repeat. Bottom line don't have anything up against the outside edge of what you're cutting. You want that metal to be able to shift as the cut is completed, otherwise you risk a jam up that might mess your sawblade up or worse.
Thanks for the know how on how to build this chop saw table... You have helped me out heaps on how to build mine in my shop .... Cheers bud .... From Australia...
Glad to hear that it helped. I use the @#&@ out of mine. Just a couple things I might do differently than in the video. I think you can see towards the end of the video that I installed some small wooden chip deflectors. I would make those bigger with perhaps some type of catch basin below. This saw is amazing but those little chips fly everywhere. Also, the angle iron stops I made- don’t make a heavy duty metal stop like I did. It actually can make the metal catch on the blade after the cut, possibly ruining your cut piece and taking a tooth or two from your blade. Now I use the angle iron and a small piece of wood for the stop and I also let the saw come to a complete stop before raising it. Other than that I wouldn’t change a thing. Thanks for watching.
Tip: Pan slowly... move the camera slowly... It'll make videos much better!
хрю му, гавно нагородил
Just an update. I love love love the saw. If you ever build something like this, don't waste your time putting on those stops that I made. It's just as easy (easier) to clamp a piece of wood to your supports for repeated cuts. I would consider using a metal plate to mount the saw to instead of MDF. MDF, like all wood expands and contracts. It's not enough to truly effect the cut much, but it's enough to annoy a guy like me who spent a lot of time ensuring the table height matched my support height perfectly. I have made hundreds and hundreds of cuts on this saw, both thick and thin material. It is still cutting fantastically. Having that permanent work station makes is so dang easy. For those of you thinking of some type of bearing, don't waste your money. After a few cuts, rotate the saw table over the top of a few of the metal flakes. It's what happened naturally as I used the table and those little flakes that are small enough to wiggle their way between the table and the support frame kinda act like little baby bearings. They make it rotate super easy.
Very cool
This is I was looking for
فكرة رائعة 👌🖒🖒🖒
I like it, but it's so close to the wall you may get sparks thrown back away you. Might need some more of that ABS behind the saw to protect the wall
I've used it a lot and have not noticed any damage to the wall or anything sticking to the wall. I would recommend putting up some deflectors along the side to at least keep the chips under the saw. Otherwise they definitely spread around. Even an entire catch system under the saw would be nice. Something else that occurs from the chips, which, Ironically, ends up being a good thing; they get in between the metal frame and the ABS sheeting as you rotate it around. It actually makes it spin around quite nicely, almost like little mini bearings. I am thoroughly satisfied with the saw. I have made a lot of cuts with it and it is still cutting very nicely.
The saw he has does a really good job with the hot sparks off the back. Its not like the Dewalt rigs their Firestarter's.
This saw doesn't throw much fire
45º?
excellent idea, excellent video, thank you!
You're welcome.
hey why dont u use a bearing from a car
really like the design def gonna steal that from ya got same saw 2
The saw is a heavy SOB all by itself, but when you add metal to it, it gets even heavier. So if you design a bearing system into your table, that means the table will only be supported where the bearing is attached. The rest will have to be floating free so that it actually rotates. Put some thought into making sure its a beefy table if the corners cant be supported.
its a nice table i wouldn't have watched it or even commented if it wasn't nice it is heavy as hell i spent like a good month trying to decide which 1 to get and Ur wife got u this one how did she choose. I get shit stolen on Christmas
Chris, sorry to hear you get "shit" stolen at Christmas. Perhaps you should leave a note telling Santa to put your packages in a safer place. I have a friend who is a legitimate engineer and iron guy. He recommended the saw brand to my wife. I love it. Nothing nicer than needing to cut some steel and walking over to your already set up saw just waiting to slice through it for you.
Nice job!! That’s definitely a possible solution to my problem. “Okafied” where in Oklahoma are you at? I’m in Yukon
Awesome Video. I was wanting to do the same but wasn't sure how to do it. I like what you have done. Thank you!
You're welcome. Work station = no back issues.
Nice job. Predrilling bottom layer great idea. I like the fact you already know that turning the L-angle towards the back is an improvement. Keep it up.
Thanks William. I gotta say, being at a point in my life where I can finally have that saw set up in it's own work station is fantastic. It is so nice to just walk up to it and cut.
Can you explain to me why you mentioned leaving a gap around your track so the clamps would spin and so the blocks would work... I’m building a table and never heard this before...thanks
The clamps that ride in that track wont rotate 360 degrees if you make the slots in the top of your table the exact same width as the extruded aluminum track because the back of the clamp overhangs that Track by about a 1/4". Also, those little black blocks that ride in the track for doing face frame, overhang the track by about a 1/2". Hopefully that makes sense.
Hi man! we have practically same ammount of suscribers! want to do a colaboration? I like your kind of videos, they are interesting
Nice job! I just got a Skilsaw version of this, and I decided I needed something pretty much exactly like this. My original plan was to make the base that the saw attached to metal plate, but the wood should do just fine and be much cheaper. However, I was thinking of using a Lazy Susan bearing system for the rotation. I'm also planning to have a tab come off of the base plate where I can clamp the base at the desired angle.Thanks for posting this. It's going to help a lot when I build mine. :-)
You're welcome. Yeah, I also thought of using a flange bearing or a Lazy Susan. I think if you have it on a smooth turning bearing you will need those clamps you mentioned. Truthfully, after using it for a while now, I wouldn't put bearings in it. Rotating it is a breeze and it tends to stay in place perfectly. Keep in mind though, I did put that PVC sheeting in between the wood and the metal. Wood against metal without the PVC, you prob want you bearing in there. I love that saw and the setup. So dang nice just having it there ready to go. And so quick to cut. You're gonna love it!
One more thing about adding a bearing. I felt it was important to keep the wood table supported at all corners. The saw is a heavy SOB all by itself, but when you add metal to it, it gets even heavier. So if you design a bearing system into your table, that means the wood will only be supported where the bearing is attached. The rest will have to be floating free so that it actually rotates. Put some thought into making sure its a beefy table if the corners cant be supported.
you talk a lot without any action at all. what's goin on with you bro?
You want action, go to the movie theater.
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome.
Gary, where’d you buy the 1/4” PVC? I’ve googled but cant find it. Nice video, thx.
Hey Dennis, I'm in Fresno, Ca. There are at least two businesses that sell it here. This is their website, precisionplasticsinc.com/services/material-sales.php You can search the internet and even ebay, look at this 24" X 48" www.ebay.com/itm/Made-in-USA-48-x-24-x-1-4-Inch-PVC-Plastic-Sheet-Gray/282802562019?hash=item41d858a3e3:g:HdYAAOSwmNxaVB-d It will most likely be cheaper if you can find a plastic manufacturer/ fabricator in a town near you. You could also use 1/8" thickness PVC which obviously costs less. Just make sure the rest of the material that you recess the Kreg Trac in to equals 3/4".Gary
Nice setup!
great idea on making the table turn, might nedd to do something like that in my shop. thanks for sharing.
You're welcome. I use the daylights out of it.
Excellent table, very impressive. I don’t have a need for this elaborate of a setup, but I am thinking of a smaller unit that would meet my needs. Thank You, for taking the time to make a great video.
You're welcome.
Wow
Good work ¡¡¡¡ Excellent idea ¡¡¡¡ Thanks for sharing your knowledge. From Uruguay, Daniel.
You're welcome.
How good is that
Filming tip: hold your phone horizontally to match the image format on youtube and avoid the narrow view.
I am an old-ish guy. Not tech savy. I have taken your criticism to heart and will film in panoramic from now on.
Sorry, I disagree. This leads to a smaller view if the watcher does not turn their phone or tablet to horizontal.
Esta bueno el soporte para metal claro ay diferente uso Saludos.
Roof or Vertical Venting Does Not Work as Imagined. It only risks lives, damages the roof and helps to burn it off. A house is Not a chimney and can't work like one. Too many "Dampers" like ceilings, floors, walls and doors! The real reason it doesn't work is that the fire that was smoldering in the attic has now been fueled with fresh air and has erupted into an inferno which creates an enormous amount of pressure in that confined space. The hole they cut cannot release all that pressure so you have now created a Cork in the top of Your chimney. Heat from below can't escape Through the tight ceiling to get into the attic and the pressure wouldn't allow it even if there Was a hole in the ceiling. "Find what is burning and put water on it! If you can't see it, find it and put water on it. Horizontally vent if it gets hot along the way and cool the ceiling gasses with a spray of water. Most importantly, THINK don't just Follow what instructors Tell you.
Well, let's see, I've been a firefighter for dang near 34 years now, 27 with the city or Fresno. Been a captain since 1999. I'd be willing to bet that I've been inside on fire attack at least a couple hundred times and that is being quite liberal. I can honestly say that vertical vent has never made my situation worse on the inside, whether that vertical vent was started just before I entered, 30 seconds before I entered, or after I entered ( I know that goes against what SLICER-S says. I can also say, which contradicts what JB91710 had to say, that vertical vent most certainly HAS worked fantastically for me and my crew on many, many occasions, making both visibility and amount of heat felt, much better. Cut a properly placed heat hole, and punch through the sheetrock below, and BINGO, it works exactly like a chimney. If you want proof, vent a structure fire where the fire hasn't penetrated inside the attic of the structure yet, punch through the sheet rock, and then stand back and tell me there isn't some good smoke and heat production out of that hole. If there isn't, your truck company probably didn't vent in the right place, or didn't punch through properly, or there are multiple layers of roof structure (not topping).Want even more proof, kick a fan on at the front door after that heat hole has been properly made. Make sure fire attack knows you're going to light up the fan first though!!! Then watch a rocket engine shoot out of the hole. A lot of folks get scared by that rocket engine. They think it means you just ignited the entire attic by introducing fresh air. To that I say BULL SH__! What you did was give the heat and smoke and unburned fuel a place to go and then you pressurized it to hurry the process. Please, for the sake of us interior fire attack crews, continue to ventilate.
JB91 is probably just a pumper pussy. Not everyone is cut out to ride on a Pegasus ( aka a ladder truck)
Absolute garbage comment. Vertical ventilation performed with coordinated fire attack by far does the most good for victims trapped as well as interior crews operating. The SLICE-RS thought is all the rage and the UL studies are often quoted. But, the reality is...we give up distance for time burning while on the roof. We also coordinate our interior crews with those cutting holes topside. It absolutely works and is by no means something that is warranted on every single fire , but is something that seems to be working well for our Fire Departments out west. Getting an, “all clear” on a primary in a matter of a couple minutes in a single family dwelling vs taking 10 to do the same thing without vertical ventilation. If that was my family’s house, I want that smoke up and out of there. Plain and simple.
coooooooooool