Rebuilder in a box was built to help the do it yourselfer. Our goal is to give someone an option to repair their old starter or alternator to bring it back up to or better then factory specs. You could spend less at a junk yard, but most likely you will only have a band-aid. With our rebuild kits you will be making your alternator or starter new again at a friction of the cost.
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I’ve got an alternator from my 1998 Crown Victoria. I had wanted to rebuild it for a few years now. Finally found the kit to do so but now I need the impact and a giant socket to remove the giant nut holding on the pulley. I had hoped that the rear portion would simply come right off.
Great video guide. My 2014 honda civic starter died. So instead of spending a fortune on a new one. I rather just had it rebuild and reuse it. Thank you for the video, it's really helpful. Keep up the great guide. Very much appreciated for this awesome guide in rebuilding a starter. The new one are just not worth spending an arm and a leg for it. There's just no real value investing into a new if the old one can be rebuild to last another lifetime with proper maintenance.
Unfortunately you don't carry anything for toyota. Denso is the number brand that Toyota uses.
Do you know if the high amp kit helps at idle? Just looking to get rid of the lower voltage dip I get at idle. I know a smaller pulley would do that but then I would need a shorter belt than factory.
Most likely.
OUTSTANDING TUTORIAL
I just finished rebuilding my starter as per your video. My starter was a little different inside than yours, but they operate the same way. I am confident when I bench test this tomorrow that it will work just fine. Then it goes back in the car to replace the aftermarket one that I bought. I may ever check it out to see why it’s not working like it should. Thanks again for a great video. No jokes, no swearing, no nonsense. Just a great video.
Awesome video! Precise and detailed!
Why does your Dr44G look different than mine? My mounting bolt holes are located differently.
Awesome video! My 2015 Honda CRV has 90,000 miles on it and the starter would only click. I replaced my OEM starter with a new aftermarket starter and within a month it started acting up. I will be trying to rebuild my factory starter as per this great video. I’m hoping my only problem is worn out brushes. I’ll find out when I take it apart. Thanks again for this awesome video. This gives me confidence that I can rebuild mine.
I ordered the kit and successfully rebuilt this starter! Thanks! Man there was so much graphite dust in there. No wonder the contact becomes unreliable. One thing that bothered me about the internal design is that there is no "registration" of the plastic unit with the brushes. i.e. there are no slots on the slide that force it to any orientation. You just have to eyeball it so that the plastic post with the washer is as vertical as possible, and then keep that alignment when placing the final part of the body that has the magnetic stator. I ended up re-doing that a few times as I wanted to make sure the plastic post was as perfectly vertical as I could get it.
Not completely following the insecurity. Maybe you didn't have the gear housing all the way down into the aluminum nose cone before installing the plastic brush holder.?? It should have stayed inserted solidly on the grooves. No worries though.
@@rebuilderinaboxIn the video at 14:20 when you place the final piece on, there is nothing preventing it from rotating the the entire bushing assembly a few degrees to the right or left as you settle the metal piece w/slot down on it. And any rotation causes the plastic rod to be slightly off from vertical. The bushing assembly is not really locked in place by grooves or anything, it just feels like a design flaw of the starter. Unless I missed something, but pretty sure I didn’t. Well the starter is working ok for me either way!
Wire toothbrush 😂
Regitar USA has a one wire regulator for SI alternators that charge14+ at low RPM. I'm not sure about apps.
Hi - this is a great video, very detailed, thanks for taking the time. I think you may have identified the problem I'm seeing with my 7135/27SI alternator on my 74 Trans Am. I hope so anyway. I am seeing erratic voltage output from the battery post when the car is running. Skips around anywhere from 0 to 14, 3, 6, whatever. I tested everything on the charging circuit from battery to wires to grounds, all is good. I had a local shop check the alternator, they put a new regulator in, said the rest was in perfect shape (it's got very low miles on it, even though it's from 1998, less than 2k). I put it back on, same thing. I noticed the battery post is moving around (can rotate pretty freely, once nut holding wires on is tight). Based on what you noted about that post needing to be tight (internally) I am thinking that might be the issue? Possibly arcing as you mentioned, or simply not making good contact. And if so, I feel, after seeing your video, I can take the back off and tighten it down, although the brush retainment seems a bit tricky. The shop said they got 14.5 out of it on bench testing. Before I take it apart, am going to run it with no wires on the battery post and check output.
Yes the post must be tight. But readings at the alternator output would never drop below 12.6 with a fully charged battery. Readings at the alternator of 0 or less than 12.6VDC indicate a faulty hot wire or fuse link. (if you're sure the grounds are good).
The car is a street/strip car I had put together in the early 2000's by a shop that built sandrails and off-road racers and ran superbly until just about a month ago. I was in a car accident before that and could not do the work myself at the time. The issue I'm tracking down, is the engine (stroked 455 Pontiac, high compression race engine) won't idle in drive or park any longer, wants to shut off. Runs great off-idle and in park (it idles at 1400 RPM). I rebuilt the carb and fuel regulator last year after not driving it much during the pandemic, ran well since, this feels like an electrical issue. Tested everything including taking the 3 year old rear-mounted battery, on a tender with kill switch set to off when not driven, to a shop where it tested good, checked wire continuity on cables (and cleaned all fittings), MSD system including box and coil and dist., put new spark plugs in, checked fuse panel, grounds (2 heavy-duty to engine alone) accessory wiring for vacuum pump and electric fans, etc. And finally found the varying current at alt. New reg put in it, no difference. I was planning to run the car with the 3 wires coming off the alt clamped together and removed, to see if it puts out 14 v that way. Then go through the 3 (one directly to battery via the kill switch, one to new accessory wires for fans etc, the other I'm not sure where it goes yet, figuring to fuse panel but all 3 have been there untouched since 2005) to see if one of them is the issue. When I took the alt out I found the #1 wire on the plastic plug was broken internally, replaced the plug, soldered wires on, verified 2 gets battery signal. This has been driving me nuts, as it coincided with my wanting to sell it and started the day I was bringing it to the person doing so. So I'm looking at anything at this point, which led me to your video due to the loose bat terminal on the back. I appreciate your reply, I will try to find a way to test for that.
@@rebuilderinabox Quick update on this frustrating problem. I was able to turn the bat post on the back of the alternator with a 1/2" wrench till it was solidly tight. Reattached the wires, tested it, same erratic voltage. Removed the wires so nothing attached to the alternator except the side plug (for terminals 1,2), clamped the other 3 wires together and started it. Checked the voltage coming off the bat post, same 0, 6, 14, 3, 0, 13, etc etc. It really seems like something is shot in the alternator, unless it's possible the feed from the battery into #2, (#2 has battery voltage applied if the battery kill switch is set to on, as does the alt bat post, whether the key is in or not, and #1 only shows voltage when car is running) or the output from 1, to the dash light, could be screwing it up? I was debating about removing just terminal 1 and trying it, but am unsure if that could cause an issue. Biggest problem with a new one is this is a 150 Amp alt. And it's hard enough finding the correct case style, been impossible to find one with more than 100 amps. Maybe it will be OK with that, but not sure, has high-draw electrical accessories, fans, vacuum pump, elec. fuel pump etc.
@@eldaminoTA If the battery is in the trunk, there should be one continuous ground cable to the block. Don't use the frame or the chassis as a ground path. Get some #10 gauge wire, Feed the alternator post from the starter solenoid post, bypassing kill switch as a test.
@@rebuilderinabox Thanks for the information - the ground cable, in the trunk, goes to a welded bracket the shop added to hold the fuel cell. That is welded to the body by about 2" of weld. The bolt it tightens against (welded to underside of bracket) is unpainted. In the engine compartment they ran heavy ground cables (2) to the engine, one from the body, one from the subframe, and another connecting both. There's also various grounds from the body to the fans, and vacuum pump harnesses. This problem with it wanting to shut off while warmed up in drive or reverse started roughly 3 weeks ago now, after 19 years. In the past any issues with the engine at low speed were due to the MSD billet dist., buildup on the terminals in the cap and at the reluctor ends (light surface rust) creating an irregular spark, or buildup on the spark plugs. So the first thing I did was clean the dist with scotch brite pads as usual and blow it out with air. And put new plugs in, although the old ones were in good shape. When that didn't help I started checking everything else. This morning, after more research I tested the alternator's #1 terminal's function, as I was not seeing a light on the dash when putting the key in run, I could not remember if I wired one in when I built the custom dash, or if it ever turned on. Thankfully I shot a video of myself starting it, many years ago, showing the dash, I noticed no light came on. But just in case, I wired a 12v standard type dash light in-between a switched 12V+ source and the #1 terminal on the alternator, when the key was on, light came on, when started, light went off, however it is still doing the erratic voltage output. I don't think the ignition switch could be involved, as the car starts, runs (except in drive) and shuts off fine with it. I think I have a source for a 100 amp 7135 style alt and am going to order it, swap it and see what the output is. If it's still jumping around, then I have no more ideas on what to search!
¿ Tienes video de la extracción de la bobina solenoide ?
Excelente Maestro 👍, ¿ Cuál es la especificación técnica de la grasa blanca que utilizas ?
Thank for your time 👍🏾
Hi i think this is the same 39 MT delco remy so i have 3 question brother : 1. What is the total length of the starter cos i have a miss info about it ? 2. How much is the rated rotation speed interval in rpm of this starter ? 3. Can i use 2 of this starter model 9 KW to crank Caterpillar C18 heavy engine used in industrial system ? I hope you can help me bro and i will be very appreciated thanks in advance 🙏
just take chunk of wire strip the end and dip it into some flux. Now you have a wick to absorb the hot solder from what you are desoldering. Or buy a solder bulb to suck it up with.
Hi, thankx for this video , im portuguese and my Jeep Cherokee alternator dont have that number reference but its almost identical , so im having an. issue whit it , when driving and at 2000 rp or more i have about 13 volts and all ok but when i stop hit the pedal sometimes i have about 11, 50 volts or so , even at nigth and i can see ligths going more alive if i hit the acelerador pedal and something funny started happen too wish is my volt gauge fall to 9 volts and then up again , do this almost always i start drive the car .Checking the voltage whit multimiter at alternator i got 12 volts and sometimes less, whit no one hiting pedal ofcorse , but i guess its not working something there . I alreaddy switch the brushes but problem remains, checked the rectifier whit multimiter and i got the same value in all so i presume its good , now i dont know where to check more ; my slip rings are exacly like yours there and i thougth it was the problem but now i saw your video and maybe its not from there , so can you have ideia where my problem can be or what can i check \'
Try another battery. Go thru all vehicle grounds. Clean fuse block. Voltage reg is in computer, clean connections, grounds. Follow large wire coming off alternator, dis assemble fuse link and clean.
thanks for your answer, just another question, do you know the right value of diodes? I checked and gave me about 4 in all them , but yesterday I did another try checking a output alternator and case and got about 1, 12
@@000jamesh They will all measure very similar resistance. Then checking in reverse, very little bleed thru. The exact reading will vary on scale and meters.
Best explanation l have ever seen Thanks keep it up pal Have rebuilt my alternator easily after watching you, thanks again
do you have a kit for a 2008-2011 2.0 civic starter?
Immensely helpful, thank you.
What the starter it sounds like is spinning but not engaging is it better just to change the solenoid ?
Could buy some time if that's what's wrong with it. (50-50 chance) If successful, another new solenoid would be necessary when the motor section expires. (1-6 months) normally.
Extensions as punches and screwdrivers as pry bars 🙄
Good observation for experienced mechanics with a big tool box. Our site is dedicated to the working man, in the trenches, in the USA with limited tools and limited income. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/
Mike, thanks for taking the time to show us what to do. You explained everything and made it so easy to understand. Thank you. Outstanding job!
VERY helpful, thank you much!!
Hi , are you still in the business ? I just tried to buy this kit from you but I got an error message from PayPal
Yes. The bank must be in the states.
@@rebuilderinabox Ok my shipping address is in US but my bank is not , is there any other way I can send you the payment ? Credit card maybe ?
Outstanding demo, thanks!
Great video Mike. Thank you for sharing.
Great instructional video. The first time I’ve ever had to replace the slip rings before but with your video it turned out great. Thanks!
I've searched all of KZread for a video on how to remove the pinion gear and shaft. It's hanging up and only slowly spins unless you pry it out with a screwdriver once. Then it will work one time. Just my luck the one thing I need to see, you skipped over.
We mainly cover what 99% happens or is serviceable at home without special tools. Sounds like the shaft is bent. If its chucked in a lathe, it can be seen. The average guy (which is our mantra) doesn't have that tooling. But don't run out and get a lathe, it needs replaced anyway.
I got the high amp kit for this 3G small frame alternator I ran it for a month after following his instructions here and it works beautifully there's no telling how many amps is putting out it's more than 130 amps I had to run it for about a month to get the brushes to seat good and everything before I made a comment on it but this guy knows his business and the rebuilder in a box get the high amp upgrade and follow his directions and you won't have no problems
That's what we want.
That was awesome! Thanks man!
I ordered a kit from you and I am very happy Works great! I now have another coming. Only thing is I dissagree on the rebuild. On my 130d You say use at least a 200A solder tool. My Snap on/blue point is right at 200A and will not even start to touch it! Got it done but not with 200A used my mini torch.
You mean 200 watts right? The 200w Weller is a 200-260 gun that should be enough with full contact for 60-120 seconds. We haven't tested Snap-on. Also, cleaning the contact points and tip can add a lot.
@@rebuilderinabox Yes watt. question my alternator with your kit working fine. Ive been thinking about a AMP. Can a person just order the field coils and case assembly? Also do you carry brand new brush holders for the 130D?
We just sell what is on the website. Don't know what you mean by AMP... High amp??@@dgc940
This is a very detailed video! But do you have any questions? What are the channels near each bushing with felt inside? If this is for lubrication of bushings, then what kind of oil should be poured into it?  От
Our replacement bushings are oilite. (impregnated with oil, no need to lube)
Why then are there channels near the bushings and materials inside them???
"Our" bushings don't need oil as in all aftermarket replacement bushings, even the manufacturer's aftermarket. Please, no need to focus on this. Although annoying from a design standpoint, it's very insignificant to life expectancy and performance.
Good working sir 😊😊😊
Ótimo vide
Thank you so much for the best video tutorial.My 4 runner starter just stop,now i can do the repair because of your nice video..Good job Mike.God Bless..
Let someone on KZread knows how to rebuild this guy explains it perfectly well done
Happy to have found this information,keep it up
the pulley uses a reverse thread?
No.
Nice
Say I know this is not video subject related but its your newest vid. Listen I have 3 CS130D'S and a little s10 blazer I have totaly restored and on your kit with the new rotor I am wondering are these good long lived parts? Just asking! Or would I be better off going to wrecking yard getting a AD244 OR 230? I dont need anymore amps Im good with the 105. My CS130d is working fine but I want better then fine Im anal on service. Even if I get a AD im going to get your kit and rebuild it.
Everything we sell, is the parts we use here in the shop. They are the best available at the time. We have very good luck with longevity. AD rotors are different from CS130D. We don't do that.
@@rebuilderinabox No not sking to build fankenstien Im asking would a person be better to dump the CS and conert to a AD (whole thing) and rebuid a AD insted.
@@dgc940 Yes.
Thank you so much! I needed to clock my new alternator and would have taken me forever to figure it out. Way different than old school alternators.
I was rebuilding these back when I was just a kid back in the day. Back then could go to the chevy dealership and get genuine parts for them and in stock. used to chuck the rotor in drill press and clean brush contacts with a fine file then buff with very fine grit paper. Then be cruising the drag by evening. Same with starters I was poor boy. Back then our little town also had 2 auto electric shops Thats the good ole days.
Yep and they knew it, too. The very next designs were specifically intended to be non- rebuildable, they even published TSB's touting the CS series was not rebuildable. (which was $ driven propaganda) After market rebuilders were furious and I was one of them. Then GM ditched Delco Remy for foreign cheaper labor. Sorry Delco, don't try turning to the aftermarket you just got done trying to screw over!! What goes around comes around.
Followed the video. Rebuild completed without any issues. Thanks.
Sucks that that site doesn't have any modern alternator parts or cars. Nothing after 06 and doesn't have parts specifically just the basics
Actually, this is for your benefit. The kits we offer and the videos we produce are destined for hi success rate. The parts we don't offer are because the consumer without access to specialized tools and experience would normally fail. How would you like to buy parts, do all the work, then fail??? You'd really be complaining at that point. We're not an organization that will lead people down a dead end road for profit.
How much the pulley and bearing number please
Excellent video
Thank You
Very helpful video! thanks!