Hey, it's Matt!
Welcome to my channel!
I'm a qualified Mechanic (Small Motors), but I've previously studied Sound Engineering and more recently Project Management.
I'm also a licensed Drone Pilot in Australia and fly UAV's for both myself and local government authorities.
Videos you'll find on this channel include:
- How To DIY mechanical stuff
- Drone Piloting and related videos
- Reactions to things I enjoy
- Reviews or thoughts on things I find relevant or interesting
Feel free to get in touch!
And thanks again for checking my channel out!
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Thank you, this video was a great help.
Hello. Can you please measure the lenght of that pin? I just lost mine when removing the thermovax and cannot find it. I want to make a new one and I figured out the width, but I don t know how long should it be ...Thanks in advice.
@adonysmares9146 sorry, I don't have the bike any more, so I'm afraid I can't measure it for you.
@@mhstagg no problem, thank you
Do you have part number for that
For the wax auto-choke valve, you mean?
5VY-14204-00-00
@mhstagg I forgot which side was which on the idle control valve the raised side faces left or right. Or does it matter which way it goes back in?
Landscape video???
Life saver bro. Managed to accidentally de-rail one of my belts (back one on alternator) after a shammy got sucked in whilst the engine was running. I was in panic, thanks to you it's back on tightly and running quieter than ever 👍🏻
Do u still have this navara.....if so any chance u could do a video of how the power steer tensioner washers etc go
My R1 has been on low rev start for a year and finally had time to look at it properly. Top video sorted the problem same as you show stuck rod. Cleaned it off and now it starts properly and revs down to idle when warm. Thanks so much for doing the video made the job so easy. 👍👍👍
глупо
Didn’t put your cat back in?
I thought 2010 was d40?
They made both models in 2010
Thanks @staggwooddogg just got my r1 back and running .
Glad it got you sorted! Happy riding!
I had an issue with idle being up around 2500 or more when it warmed up ,was fine at startup (around 1000+/-) ..was gonna do this and had watched this vid awhile back to get an idea how it’s done . But I decided to turn the idle down first just by the idle screw.. and it’s been fine ever since …now it starts at around a 1000 and slowly within a min or two goes up to 1100+/-….I’m wondering if the thermo wax might still be part of my issuE …, because, after warmed up and I try to cruise at 3000 rpm or under in higher gears more so but almost all gears, it runs with a rumble/stutter ever so slightly . As soon as I touCh more throttle it’s fine …also today when I let off throttle after hard acceleration at 140mph it gave a fairly loud pop/backfire ..nothing crazy amd only 1 pop….which with the baffle out my eBay “yoshimura” can and midpipe it seems to slightly pop on engine braking to some extent all the time … usually when on amd off throttle then back on again…..? Just realized you probably aren’t a bike mechanIc and juSt a dude like me fixing his bike 🤦🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
is there another name it might go by other than wax valve? can find anything on it
Starter valve
@@mhstagg couldnt find anything on that either. partzilla have it down as a starter case
Sounds like my issue 2008 R1 second time it has done it where it stuck at idle about 4000RPM, will check it out tomorrow and keep you updated thanks for the vid
Sounds like it might be the culprit. Hope it goes well for you. 👍
@@mhstagg The 2008 R1 does not have that setup 2004-2006 does, my fault codes were the TPS and the coolant Temperature Sensor (I believe the temperature sensor is playing up)reading cold briefly and the automatic choke controlled by the ECU is getting mixed signals and coming on giving it a higher idle.
t Thanks been searching for this fix for months mine was stuck up now free and sorted many thanks great vid and fix T
My r1 07, dies at idle. When cold started it stays on but as soon as the high idle mode turns off, the idle drops obviously but it dies. Doesn’t hold it.
BEL LAVORO GRAZIE🥰🥰🥰
How is your nav now after all the mods?
Thankyou for your kind how 2 video on this topic. Just done the cleaning out on my fz1 and she's back to choking again at startup!
Thank you for this video my bike had been of the road over winter and then it reved to 4k now its fixed thank you
Glad it was of help to you!
@mhstagg more then help bike runs better them it ever has idles so much better look forward to anymore on the fz1
Damn I come here to see how to remove the air con belt but its the only one you didn't do 😂
Wher can i buye one for my r1 2004 im looking everywhere 😅
Local Yamaha dealer should be able to source one from Japan. Might not be cheap though...
@@mhstagg what do you think it may cost
It cost me about $239 australian to get here.
Awesome, I am going to try this tomorrow. Great vid you explained it well.
Thanks for the video mate. Got me right out of the shit!
Glad to hear it! 👌
Hey great video! Do you mind if I ask where you got your thermo wax from?
Hi Keelan. I got it from a yamaha dealer, they had to order it from Japan
This was awesome haha. Very helpful and a good laugh. Thanks for the help!
Excellent video thank you very much!!
Hopefully it helped you get going again 👍
Done this the other day. Had to do it twice, they didnt give me 2 matched belts in dayco belt slipped out. Went with gates for the alternator w/pump belt.
Surprising how few people know their bike has an auto choke. Great video and great explanation of function and fix.
Please someone tell me where to buy a new Thermowax 2006 fz1 in usa
Thanks for the info. Had the same trouble with that nut and a hell of a lot more trouble with my torsion bars. No easy slide out for me. But done now so all good
Just wondering when you put it back together did you put the piston and the big spring in the whole first and then put top on or put the piston onto the top first and put all in together , did it all go smoothly for you and did you touch the idle screw at all , I'm going to tackle it tomoz but I'm a bit nervous 😂🙈
Hey mate, Didn't touch the idle at all, it should be okay as long as you didn't adjust it trying to chase a lower idle before. I sort of held the whole thing together with my finger and slid the piston in the hole first with the spring and all attached. The thing to watch if you do it the other way is that the little stainless pin doesn't fall out as you put it in and loose it down into the engine bay. And mind that the little small spring on the side doesn't take off on you. If you just take your time with it and pay attention to where everything goes, it's pretty straight forward. Good luck!
@@mhstagg thanks brother much appreciated 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎
@@mhstagg I've just done it and took all apart and cleaned and it idles much more steady , life saver thanks dude . By the way I did drop the spring plate down into the abyss 🤣🙈👍🏼👍🏼
@@bccapone837 haha, bummer. I almost lost mine at one point too. Glad to hear the bike is back to running well again. Good work. 👍
What a blessing of a video 👌🏼
Glad to have helped 👍😀
4-5000rdm with hot engine with my R1 2003 l Just bought. Seems like the same problem and l am 100% sure that your video will fix the problem tomorrow. Clean and clear video , Thanks for that !
Sounds promising, hopefully this sorts you out 👍
Very helpful couldn't find anything on this thank you
Watched half of your video immediately went to the garage 20 minutes later my bike was idling perfect you are the man.
Awesome! Glad I was able to help! Happy riding. 👌
Same damn high idling easy fix THANK YOU 🙏🏼
What are those shoes bra.. wtf
The shoes I'm wearing in the video? It's been a while since I filmed it, but probably Globe Fusions? Why so?
Is there really a need to remove the cables that are attached under the dome on the pipe. Could you not just remove at the cables at the top and then when you remove the pipe the cables are still attached to the pipe? Would that work, the screws on my dome are rusted?
I guess you could do it that way? Might be a bit dicky to hold the pipe and thread the cables at the same time, but I can't see why it wouldn't work?
Do you still own the car, were you happy with the lift?
Yep, still got the car, still happy with the result. Hasn't given me any trouble in the years I've had it.
Thanks, really appreciate. I'll order mine today, I was thinking about formula and raw, but I'll get raw.
Hey mate, sounds awesome. Looking at getting one for my nav. Would you know how many decibels it is by any chance? heard it had to be less than 90db to be legal. Thanks for the helpful videos👍
Hey Koby, I can't say I've measured it to be honest, though my Ute did drop out of its Rego period a few months back, forcing me to get a Roadworthy done. It passed the RWC with it on no problems, so I can only assume it was fine though I don't know the limitations of noise here. Definitely quieter than a lot of Harleys getting about though, that's for sure.
@@mhstagg ok cheers mate👍
you dont have to take fan off
Thats what I was thinking. Just put it half round the fan and wind it around till it comes over?
Will an issue with this cause the bike to start and then immediately die or occasionally idle for a 2-8 seconds (approximately) and then die. Most of the time the bike will not start though. Please help, I have been chasing issues like crazy and my FZ1 is my only transportation.
Hi Gunpla, This absolutely COULD cause that problem. If the pin on the lower section of the unit gets stuck pressing down on the choke valve then when starting the bike it will be as though the bike is already warm and could cause it to stall, or fail to start. The other possibility would be a fuel pump failing, causing lack of pressure in the fuel line, or a kinked suction hose from the fuel tank stopping air being able to get in, but thats probably far less likely.
@@mhstagg I've done the following so far: Changed spark plugs Taken out fuel pump and replaced fuel strainer as I had dumped in fuel injector cleaner the last time I rode it. Sprayed out the pump too with carb/FI cleaner. Replaced gas with fresh gas tonight Cleaned air filter Had fuel injectors cleaned at a shop and replaced all seals, and o rings Sprayed out fuel rail, and fuel lines extensively with carb/FI cleaner. Gone into diag mode and cleared all codes, and tested all coils and injectors and have gotten all sounds I should have. Before I was getting proper voltage, but my battery is bad, but I have warranty so I'll just swap that out tomorrow. Made sure EXUP valve servo is working in diag test. The pump shoots out fuel if I hook back the sensor in diag mode if I'm in the d modes that cause that. It's a nice strong shot of fuel. I did adjust that valve the last time I rode it because the idle was a bit low. Then since I've had these issues I've messed with it a ton. I'm really going through it with this bike right now, and I have been stressing out.
@@mhstagg oh and the plugs were wet on the plugs in the bike when this first started after trying to crank the bike over.
@@gunplacustoms5444 Sounds like you've tested all the right things? For the sake of the 30 odd minutes it takes to check this valve out, it wouldn't hurt to do so. If you can't move that brass pin in the bottom of the unit (It should move quite freely between two small stops, about 10mm total movement) then you might have a problem. Also if you spy any wax on the bottom of the valve, like I showed on mine, then it might have leaked out, but I think the pin getting stuck is the more likely cause. I read a lot on the forums about these bikes doing all kinds of weird stuff if that pin sticks in place.
@@mhstagg bikes been down over 2 weeks now, and it sounds like the starter valve is stuck closed. Before I changed the plugs the old plugs were wet when I took them out.
Why would you remove a turbo to do a pre fabricated exhaust made to fit like a factory exhaust.
So you can do it without removing it can you?
@@mhstagg sure you can…
Hey just wondering about that adapter plate for the stock mount you pointed out. Where you get that from?
It came with the Kit I brought. Might not be needed for all kits
Awesome mate, going to get a new stage one turbo and exhaust for my same rig!
Thank you
Hi mate, this is 2' Sus lift kit?
Yep, 2" lift
Love the vid mate, its help me getting out the stock exhaust. 1 question. The egt sensor . the yd25 doesn't have one stock im assuming so is it necessary to get one or can you just leave it with the bung in?
Just leave it with a plug in it mate. Unless you're adding an aftermarket one, no need for it. 👍
@@mhstagg thank heaps.
Usually the AC belt that squeals first , was hoping to c how to adjust .
So the bike doesn't care that the valve isn't there? What about the cat? If it were hollowed out would it effect the bike negatively?
Technically the actuator for the valve stays in place, so as far as the bike knows the valve is still on. It will still move the actuator as if it's still on there. I doubt removing the CAT material would have any negative affect, as there is no sensors taking readings after it, so I doubt there's anything in the computer that would even reference it on this model.