Welcome to the Alphatone Audio youtube channel!
In my videos, I discuss custom audio cable construction, pedalboard builds, DIY music projects, and general maintenance and upkeep of everything that keeps your signal flowing.
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If you keep a ball of solder on your tip before you place it into your stand in between solder joints and after use, it will protect your tip from oxidation and make your tips last longer. The tip tinner will also strip your iron if you use it too often.
Brother you just saved my life! Ive destroyed 15 sp500 with heat because I had such a difficult time getting the sleeve connection to solder and hold. This was amazing!
Very informative video, thanks. Do you have any thoughts on the suitability of SP650-S for the TRS end of a mono/insert cable? The specs say it's good for 5mm-5.8mm cable, which could possibly be a better fit for dual mono cables.
I need to take a TR cable from a guitar and split to 4 TR outputs without signal loss, what do you recommend? Do they make rotary switches so I can select between which of the outputs to use?
I'm sure a rotary switch could be cleverly employed this way. Although, if you need to use more than one channel at a time, that could get complicated quickly.
"Hazmat" click....
I still have problem understanding use case for switching type combos.
Perfect stereo cable instructional. Joining the unbalanced 2314 at the TRS connector is so simple, so smart. Details matter so much. It should be a breeze working with technicians like you. Thank you.
Sounds good.
I absolutely started down the "just find longer screws" route, bought a ton of imperial and metric screws in various sizes and lengths, drilled all the holes in the home brew board, etc. I eventually concluded dual lock was vastly easier and held just as well. One problem with this approach is it's also hard to take pedals off when you need to squeeze cables into places like side jacks. So I ended up needing to wire up multiple pedals and then screwing them all down at once. Also angled bottom screws (looking at you, H9) are a pita.
Thanks so much, this was incredibly useful as I plan all the patch cable for my new board.
Hi you mentioned how I could could get a diy store to make one up for me.. could you pint me in the direction 🙏
I'm trying to do insert cables for my pedalboard and though it seems well done, I have a hum noise, much like a bad ground noise. I tried lowering iron temp, and uping it and try to solder faster. I'm not able to do quality cables no matter what I do. What could be the reason? Beginner soldering here.
Great video and explanation. Thanks a lot! 👍
Thank you for this
I’m curious about the seemingly cheaper power box. Some people on the internet are saying the power supply I bought isn’t isolated. I’m going to do the test with my multimeter. I bought a vangoa pedal board with integrated power supply and it says that it has an isolated power supply but the power cord for the wall outlet is a 1.5 amp power supply. I’m wondering if I was tricked into believing I bought isolated power in the board when they meant it comes with an isolated power converter as a power cord like a one spot
Never use sand paper . You don't wanna remove tin and chrome coating.
yaketi yak talk a lot to say nothing
dude i cannot hear you
First off THANK YOU🙏🏻 Great video and channel (tho i havent even looked at other vids, i know). Anyhow, all these years… there’s really no difference between an 1/8” or 1/4” TRS in terms of audio quality?.. right?
This video helped big time!
I wish those Switchcraft angled connectors were more readily availlable in Europe, or at least having an alternative option.
You're a genius. Thank you for teaching me.
Thank you for all these videos, seeing the products in real life is so much more useful than staring at some datasheets wondering if something will fit my use case.
Do you think the parts you used in the video would be fine for basic audio microphones to connect to like maybe bare wire from your your cable to a 3.5mm female input.. Thinking for a cctv nvr that has a db25 audio connector on it for more channels of audio input.
I've been advised to use these with 2528 instead for SPS7S TRS to dual SP500 TS cables. Do you see any issues with that?
If you'd prefer a zip cable, I don't see why that wouldn't be the best option for your applications. I've never used the 2528 personally, but it looks like a great fit for the SPS7-S.
Needing a 25db to 44 dB adapter. Anyone know we're to get one or how to make one?
Thank you… just the info I needed today 😊
Thanks so much for this video! Subscribed.
I was just getting ready to re-do my board with velcro and saw this. Ordering a roll of dual lock now. Velcro was always just the standard and go-to, I never really thought about it. Great video.
Thank you for this excellent video. You are an ace teacher! Subscribed and I don't even know what else you cover on your channel. :D
No no no! Never use a kitchen sponge!
Absolutely no idea what a pedalboard is, but this was an absolutely fantastic & insightful video on reclosable fasteners! Big knowledge upgrade, thank you for being so thorough & thoughtful!
That's awesome! I'm glad this was useful information for someone outside the guitar/music-gear world. Thanks for watching!
Why do you choose to put the ground wire underneath the terminal, touching the housing?
Efficiency, mostly! The ground/sleeve is already touching the housing because of how the part is designed, so slipping the ground lead under the tab is the quickest way I've found to get a clean solder joint without slowing down my workflow. I think of soldering as a two-rule process: Rule #1- if something's not supposed to be touching, make sure it's not touching. Rule #2- if something's supposed to be touching, make sure it's touching. In this case, it doesn't matter if the ground lead touches the housing, so fast and clean work matters more than slipping the lead through the pinhole or keeping it isolated on the tab. Thanks for asking!
@@AlphatoneAudio awesome. Just wondering if there was any other reason. Thank you.
@@jasonthompson5140 The only other reason could arguably be duplicity, but that's debatable and probably a marginal benefit, if even applicable. Mostly, it's just quick and consistent for me.
I have a Line 6 M5 that doesn't like being daisy chained - very susceptible to noise in the power. I had to buy a separate wall wart for it as the one provided was flaky. The ISO 5 that I have now is going to simplify my hookup.
big lock picking lawyer energy
what gauge wire stripper are you using for the inner conductor?
The inner conductor wire on the 2314 is usually 22AWG. The 2319 inner conductor is closer to a 20.
Thick "Hair ties...."
I'm assembling my first-ever panel now with combo connectors along with some XLR-M, and I'm wondering if it's common for people who do this often to also be body builders. But no, I'm probably just out of shape.
As an electrician who also plays guitar, I wouldn’t ever suggest splitting in general. You are de-rating the wires which increases the chance of fire. In reality, you’ll prob never get full load capacity but on the off chance that you do, it’s safer to spend the money on a second power supply. They designed their pieces of hardware to accommodate a specific number of ports for a reason. Always better to error on the side of caution.
Aboslutely! Splitting is never ideal. Thanks for the extra insight, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for this. Didn't know this was possible. I will now be using this kind of cable for my HX Stomp. Stereo Out from my headphone to a monitor/amp.
You're welcome! Thanks for checking out the video. If you'd like to order any custom length cables for your board, just visit my website.
This is the best info available on these jacks. Can I wire these to "break" phantom power to a TRS connection with a common (only one) output? Thanks for the great work!
Thanks for watching! If I'm understanding your question correctly, the switching jack (NCJ9FI-S / Right side) should accomplish this for you. Admittedly, I haven't delved quite that deeply into the problems presented by phantom power with TRS connections, but I'd review the information in this video around 6:30 to see if that will work for your application. Sorry if that's not what you're referring to or not a perfect solution.
@@AlphatoneAudio Thanks so much for the reply. My initial thinking is that this isn't a possibility, since PhPwr is being sent backward from the mixer/preamp/etc. to the microphone using the same cabling as for the signal. There would have to be some way to separate the PhPwr from the audio, and cut only that. There may be some routing options from within a board or patch panel, but I'd like to use these jacks at a distance. Phantom power through TRS isn't really worth the risk, I don't think. I'd love it if somebody proved me wrong... Thanks again!
You do great work. Unfortunately the insulator on these plugs melt within the range of most solder flow in my experience. I've tried it all the way down to the point to where the solder doesn't flow, as you're actually trying to heat the metal with the iron and let the solder flow, thus making a true electrical connection. I've occurred many bad (cold) connections trying, and in essence wasting a lot of money. I would advise clients who tour to default to other TRS 1/4" with proper standoffs for TIP.
The Squareplug products are great for many applications, but may not be for every purpose. It sounds like you may want to try a different solder tip, temperature setting, or type of solder. There might be some slight melting of the insulation around solder points, but there shouldn't be a lot, and certainly not enough to damage the connector itself. I'm sorry to hear this didn't work for your application, and fortunately, as you stated, there are plenty of other plug options if the SPS-7S isn't for you. Thanks for watching and reporting your experience as well!
I ran into a similar issue. I have been soldering for a long time and after having a few short on the tip and ring assembling them for a friend I came and checked Google to see if anybody else had that issue. I assembled in a very similar way to the video and apply only as much heat as possible. Out of 22 of these plugs six of the TRS cable version (SPS6) and about 60 solder connections total The only ones I had issue with were the SPS7 connectors(I had no issues with these even though they're the same plug and different shell). And there were a lot of other square plug brand connectors in the board. I wonder if there was a run of connectors with poor insulators.
amazing
I just received my MC6 Pro and Midi Box in the mail! The Midi Box (morningstar) has eight 1/8th jacks out of the back. Is there a 1/8" to 1/4" cable type that I should be looking for to work with the CBA Habit?
The Morningstar Midi box should have 6 switchable outputs that can be made ring active OR tip active, depending on the needs of your pedals. ChaseBliss pedals are generally a ring active system, and to my knowledge you should be able to use a regular TRS-TRS cable, even if it is 3.5mm to 1/4in. If you learn otherwise during the process of setting up your new gear, let me know! I can't buy/test every new product from every brand, so I often have to use technical manuals and specialized knowledge rather than hands-on product testing. Thanks for watching!
AMAZING!
if i want to use dual lock with the loop side of velcro, how many stems should i use for the dual lock? 250 or 400?
If you're wanting a more solid grab, 400 is probably the best way to go. 250 might grab a bit, but isn't likely to be as solid of a connection.
Does the wire need to pass through the holes?
In order to work, you technically only need a solid solder joint connecting the leads to the tabs, but I recommend using the through-hole for attaching the hot/tip lead at least. The 360 degree coverage is generally a stronger joint than just laying it over the tab. When soldering the ground, it's easier to wedge it underneath the tab and use a generous amount of solder to form a joint rather than worrying about getting the lead through the hole. Soldering isn't always an exact science, so sometimes it's best to experiment with different ways of making clean, durable connections. Thanks for asking!
@@AlphatoneAudio ok! thanks for the detailed response!
@@AlphatoneAudio ok finished my pedal board and had zero issues. I found the left tab to be tedious to get a good pre solder other than that it was easy but time consuming as a beginner. Thanks for the video!
that foam in the weller handle melted away in the first hours of use when i bought it and i was not using high temps lol
Man, what I wouldn't give for a clear visual of this work. It's a great verbal description, though.
Anyone know how to make a 5pin MIDI to TRS cable for a Chase Bliss pedal to bypass the need for a MIDI box? I know the tip is NOT connected for their pedals, but I don’t know what 2 of the 5 pins on the MIDI male end need to be.
It's common for 5-pin DIN connectors for certain pedal applications to leave pins 1 and 3 (furthest to the outside) disconnected, making use of pins 2, 4, and 5. Pin 2 (center) almost always acts as a common ground, and in the case of a connection for a ChaseBliss pedal, Pin 5 will likely be the most important connection because they're ring-active. Note that this can vary slightly depending on your Midi controller, but if you're just connecting one CB pedal via 5-pin->TRS midi, you don't necessarily need a midibox to make those conversions. If you need a cable made for this connection, shoot us a message on alphatone.com and we'll make sure you're getting what you need! Thanks for watching.
@@AlphatoneAudio thanks for the thorough and thoughtful reply. I found what I needed on Reverb. I got a ‘Step Audio 5-pin MIDI to 1/4" TRS cable Ring Active for Chase Bliss pedals’. My Generation Loss MKII just shipped so I’ll be able to test it out next week.