Hi, my name is Brandon.
I've installed approximately 175 miles of vinyl siding (if you put all the pieces end to end... What?!). I have around 12 years of exclusive work with vinyl siding and have vinyl sided somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 houses. I’m here to share all my knowledge and every trick and tip I've learned throughout the years. I hope to save you time on your project and save you from making some common mistakes as well.
Overall I hope to help you have a more pleasant experience with your vinyl siding project and that I can teach you to install it just like a professional (and maybe help some professionals as well). Good luck and thanks for checking out my channel!
CMA: Any tips and tricks are meant to be helpful and in no way supersede your specific manufacturers installation instructions. Make sure to study your manufacturers specific installation instructions and follow them if you hope to maintain your warranty.
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Fantastic he knows what he’s talking about
I can already' tell you've been doing this for years. Perfection pays off My friend, it was like a walk in the park for you! .. thanks for sharing this video it definitely helped me out!!.. great video 👍
Hey William, no problem! I’m glad it helped you out! And thanks for the compliments!
What are the height requirements for the door to fit?
Hi, sorry I didn’t make the height and width requirements clear. The height requirement is 80”-80 7/8” as measured from the outer edge of the threshold to the bottom of the top exterior trim. Here’s a video from Andersen that better shows how to size the door: kzread.info/dash/bejne/k56Hl8OymsuoddI.htmlsi=e8Dbp3b0uYnpKybh
Is there a code like a car VIN for each manufacturer to help identify characteristics? New sub by the way. I've got some wood siding to deal with, my vinyl siding just has a few dings.
Hey thanks for subscribing! I’ve seen barcodes and numerical codes on a lot of siding, I think that they would help each manufacturer identify the production run (but that is just a guess). I’m not sure if the code could help identify the manufacturer… it would be nice if it could though.
Clean work sir🤘
Thanks!
brilliant
😊
Master at his craft, thanks for sharing.
No problem!
Putting staples through the vinyl siding will not allow it to move?? It needs to move freely, or it will buckle like most subdivision jobs LOL House wrap installed properly?? Maybe for a subdivision but those overlays need to be tapped?? 🙂
You’re correct! Vinyl siding should be fastened in a way that it can expand and contract freely. Now really short pieces of j-channel I tend to not be too careful about nailing a little tighter or clipping the edge of the nail holes with a staple. When you j around a block like I did here all the ends are locked in place and there’s really no room for expansion…. When it comes to vinyl siding, I use a staple gun with a special tip that leaves the staple proud of the nail fin and allows the siding to expand and contract as it should. I have installed vinyl siding for about 16 years and have had maybe 4 callbacks. It may be better to tape the housewrap. All the seams are facing down and there’s plenty of overlap in the vertical overlaps. So there’s very a minimal chance of water intrusion. To my understanding taping the seams in the housewrap is mostly for air sealing and not many builders or homeowners want to pay for the extra tape.
@@sidingschool I see well here in Canada we have extreme hot and cold weather it is crucial it can move freely!! A little of that house wrap tape around the J mold can help also!! that vinyl can move a lot more than people realize!! I still don't think the House wrap is done right LOL :🙂
The temps in Southern NH go from -25 degrees Fahrenheit to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. My j-channel (and siding) look nice in all weather conditions AND after years of expansion and contraction. On a side note: my cousin and I did a test on a piece of vinyl, we took it from outside -10 degrees and put it inside with the heater going… it grew from exactly 40” to 40” 1/4”! The aluminum flashing that is over the PVC block is installed underneath the housewrap and sheds water properly… in my opinion there’s no point in taping the j-channel to the housewrap (it would be extra work for no benefit, and there’s no literature that I’m aware of that recommends doing that). And finally some state or town codes may require tape on all seams in housewrap, the town I was siding in in Southern NH does not require it and the homeowner didn’t want to pay for the extra tape or labor. There’s many ways to do things. Some ways are flatly wrong and a lot of ways come down to preference. Just because someone does something differently than you doesn’t mean it’s wrong. This house will stand for many years and will be protected from the elements with the methods I used.
@@sidingschool There is a reason for the tape LOL to seal it period or they would not even make it?? I'm not saying your job is no good looks like you do it good I am referencing many subdivision jobs that I see buckling Just saying do not put the staples through the vinyl it needs to move 🙂
I’m happy you’re not saying my job is no good. I take a lot of pride in what I do. And people in my area prefer to have me do their siding work because of my quality. The literature for this specific housewrap doesn’t mention taping the seams. Tape is useful in a lot of situations (taping over flashing, windows, nicks in the housewrap, etc.) and I always have some on hand. We’ve both said our part about the tape, I’ve said it is ideal to tape, but not everyone wants to pay for it. I’m not sure if you are implying that my vinyl will bubble or if you are simply talking about what you’ve seen. But as I’ve said multiple times now, my vinyl CAN move… I don’t put staples through the vinyl and the tip of my gun is adjusted to set the staples proud of the nail fin. I have no bubbling vinyl on any of my jobs. I’ve been doing this for a very long time and I am well aware of the tolerances of vinyl siding.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful.
You’re welcome!
whats the name of that calculator app!
Hi! The app is Construction Master Pro… I think it is the same company that sells the physical calculators at most hardware stores. I prefer the app because I usually have my phone on me.
Have a house near the sea. We used aluminum nails for the siding. The nail heads dissolved on the east side of the house. Just bring clipped together keeps it on the wall. Help!
Yikes! I did a job once where the previous sider only nailed every 4’ or so. We left the pieces on the wall, unclipped them and added staples to all the vinyl siding on the whole house! It took about two days for two guys. What type of siding do you have and what part of the country are you in?
I've got some siding with hail damage, installed 2 years ago but the contractor doesn't know what it was. Would following the methods in your video work? My other big issue is that the local suppliers only work with contractors, how do I get around this?
The methods I used in these videos should work for you. Once you’ve established what brand, color, style etc. your siding is you’ll probably have to contact a local medium to small size siding company and ask them to order a piece for you. Good luck!
I love it
Awesome!
Can’t see it anyways! How many professionals say this everyday
Probably too many! Good thing what I was talking about has no bearing on the performance of the siding at all 😊. It was an aesthetic thing on the back of the box, that you can’t see. It probably settled down on its own by now.
I would never ever ever ever use staples. The only reason you use Staples is because you’re putting up a prefab home which all the sudden is gonna eventually buckle you saying it’s gonna move, but it ain’t gonna move once you hit those staples in when you line out a house, just so you know you started the lowest point of the house whether you’re down from the soffit or not you do not want your tape whatsoever. Otherwise your house is gonna look fucking crooked. I’m telling you. anyways there were some good things. I’m not saying anything bad too bad just saying do it yourself or I remove and replace Siding and I new home but I do not side construction homes.
Here’s some information you might find helpful regarding stapling vinyl siding: The following is a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd And here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf I’m not sure exactly what you are trying to say, but the staple gun nose and air pressure are set so that the staples are not driven tight… the siding is free to expand and contract as it should. As I’ve proven with the above links, staples are approved by both the VSI and Certainteed. I’ve installed vinyl siding for 16 years and can count my callbacks on less than one hand 🖐️. I agree that sometimes it is easier to hand nail on re-sides for various reasons. Thanks for your comment!
Many years fighting with this. Sooo much easier. Thank You bro. True professional tradesman.
Awesome! I’m happy it helped you out!
Really love this but I don't understand much of the technique. Wish you had close-ups or stills of the close-ups. But thanks for taking the time to post!
Yeah, I tried a different camera angle and editing method. I’m probably going to remake this one.
And people ask me why it costs so much to have metal installed.
I stopped worrying too much about comments on my pricing. I’m going to do a great job that’ll protect the house for decades. If they want to go with someone who is willing to slap the siding on then walk away and not worry about the house rotting out, then I’m not trying to compete anymore. I can’t in good conscience skip necessary water proofing steps even if it causes me to lose the job.
Legit
Thanks!
Tight against the trim cause water infiltration through water surface tension. Face should always have a 1/16 air gap
There are drip caps that have the edge kick out which is good too, it is a good idea to kick the water away from the wall. For this flashing the outer lip of the flashing is 1/2” down the block… water would have to go uphill in order to infiltrate, I don’t think there is a very high probability that that will happen. I prefer the way it looks to have it tight against the trim as opposed to a gap between it and the block.
@@sidingschool oohhh I see, that makes perfect sense
So how do you connect it to prevent water damage? I just realized that the garage door header sill it completely rotted out on my 14 year old house. It’s a double size door and the entire right side is rotted where the j channel is spliced.
It sounds like whoever installed the siding didn’t use Z flashing or if they did, they didn’t either seal the top of it to the housewrap or put the top edge underneath the housewrap to prevent water intrusion. Vinyl siding and j-channels are not completely waterproof. There may be methods to limit and/or prevent water intrusion entirely, but that isn’t the way it is meant to be installed. The main line of defense against water intrusion is proper installation of housewrap and flashing pieces.
Nice job love your video. Nice to see how it’s done
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it! 😊
*Please Note* When installing this door I raised the door up to close the gap at the top (kind of out of habit)… the manufacturer does provide a “rain deflector” piece that is meant to close that gap (if any). So I would recommend checking to see if setting the jamb trim directly on the threshold works for your door - as lifting the door jamb off from the threshold creates a small gap between the jamb trim and the threshold.
Thank you for this instructional video! This helped a lot installing this door.
Great to hear! You’re welcome!
I am having this problem what tool did you use to clip the siding back on?………
Here’s an affiliate link to the tool I used: Malco siding removal zip tool amzn.to/3COkLrw If you don’t want to buy it from Amazon you can probably find a siding zip tool at your local lumber yard or big box lumber store like Home Depot, Lowe’s etc.
Brandon, amazing channel you have. Where is your self promotion? I would love to get a quote from you i think we are fairly close to each other
Thanks! I didn’t really start the channel for self promotion cause I have and can get plenty of work. I guess it’s a good idea to try to expand my business though! Right now I’m recovering from back surgery and I have a month or so before I can do much. I’m working out of Southern NH btw. If you want me to quote a job for you feel free to email at brandonconstructs at gmail.com
Bro I never seen someone hammer on the top of the tape tongue you legend
Well… it was technically the nail that was protruding up through the slot of my tape lol. I might’ve clipped my tape a couple times though. 😇 Interesting thing about tapes is not all of them read the same. I had a different brand and style tape than one of my employees and mine read 1/32” big and his read 1/32” small. So every cut he was making for me was 1/16” short.
@@sidingschool I'm literally siding just the back side of my house, takes me an hour just to think about what I''m doing LOL
It’s not a race, take your time and make sure the clips are fully engaged. Even if you have to measure every course until you get the feel for it. Good luck! 👍🏼
Damn, I just put one pc of j channel on my roof yesterday and had no clue how to make it follow the few bumps in the roof and take a corner at the end. The idea of keeping it all one piece like you did at 43:37 was brilliant. Now I gotta remove that piece and try again lol. Cheers
Well there you go 😊. Good luck! FYI, most manufacturers call for a 3/4” or so gap underneath the j-channel against roofs because they are concerned about the shingles heating up the j and making it bubble/melt… I live in a cooler part of the country and I’ve never seen an issue with it being installed tight. Also holding the j-channel up leaves the shiny step flashing visible and imo doesn’t look very good.
But the water from above comes down, enters the j channel and magically comes to the outside? BS capillary action will draw it everywhere. Up down left right. The ONLY solution is to put a cap flashing on the top. Which NOONE does. Except me. I've never seen anyone take the time to do cap flashing above doors windows etc
I have a cap flashing on top of the PVC. This is a standard install. Water does go everywhere behind the siding unless it is redirected out, that is why we use housewrap.
Thank you for this video… all of our siding is starting to fall off the top after having it replace in 2020 after a hail storm. After watching this video and looking at our siding, they just put a rubber adhesive or caulking to the top make it stick! The company we used is not longer in business of course.
Oh that’s not good! Sorry to hear that! I made a different video on how to repair siding that keeps coming loose at the top. It may be more helpful in your situation where the soffit and fascia are already in place. Here’s a link to it: How to fix vinyl siding that is loose at the top kzread.info/dash/bejne/lqWTmMqgiqXTaag.html
Thank you!!!
Too confusing
This of the kind of guy how will be extremely good at anything he does.
Thanks! I certainly try!
where are you out of? - looking at the Belletetes house wrap
I’m in the Jaffrey, NH area 😊
@@sidingschool you ever come out to the Bedford area?
I have went there to get cortisone shots in my back at NH Neurospine. Then to Manchester a couple weeks ago for back surgery. I did do a job in Amherst about 8 years ago. So yep I’ve been in the area a bit! And I’ve even done work around there too! 😊
@@sidingschool I'm a frequent flyer at the NH Neurospine - 3 fusions down - I am a builder in Bedford and am always looking for good subs - would you be interested in quoting work?
Sorry to hear that! I’m still a month + away from being able to work. I’d be interested in taking a look at some plans. You can send plans to Brandonconstructs at gmail
He's better than good at his job👍
Thanks man!
Anyone know serial number then USA TF what company is tf
Huh?
Siding has a serial number then (USA TF) WONDERING IF ANYONE KNOWS THE MAKER.. DUTCH LAP SIDING FROM AWHILE BACK
Gotcha, maybe put the serial number here and someone will be able to find it… otherwise I’d take a picture of it and show it to a siding distributor. Or even take a piece off and bring it somewhere. Sometimes the trim pieces might have more information or another piece of siding might say the manufacturer, line and color. Good luck!
Ended up just tearing the side down that was damage and starting fresh corner to corner. I think it's honestly an old piece of siding from Sears
Sometimes that’s the best way to do it. Good luck!
You, sir, are a wizard!
Thanks!
Vinyl siding is such garbage… I can’t believe this stuff is used on new homes…can’t even handle the weight of a ladder without cracking! Shameful
Mostly I was concerned about denting it (which can be mostly worked out if you know what you’re doing). Wood siding can also dent and crack from ladders. Vinyl siding has its limitations, as do all siding products.
How about using a torch lightly? (Heat gun) like Furberg1738 said!
A torch could leave a residue and is more likely to burn the siding since it is an open flame. But I did mention that a heat gun would’ve helped in this scenario. I’m pretty accustomed to not using one for the sake of speed, when it is colder out I’ll blow on j-channel to warm it up just enough to snip without it cracking.
Good to see competent and conscientious work being done by a young guy - especially in my home state! I'm 68, semi-retired and still banging nails here and there for extra $$. My drywaller and electrician are both 71, my plumber is 81. We can't go on forever and 'the torch' is in good hands with you. Oh, and you're right about not being too old to learn something new; I've done my share of vinyl in 36 years but still picked up a couple things from you.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! Your plumber wouldn’t be Wardwell?
@@sidingschool No, we're all in the Deerfield area.
Got it. I guess we both know a couple more seasoned plumbers! 😊
Heat gun?
A heat gun would’ve helped, that’s not a bad idea. As long as you don’t get too close and melt the siding!
Sad that this didn’t go to top of Google when I inquired about jchannel. I did it 53% correct.
Ah, bummer. And I wouldn’t fret, there’s a lot of ways to do things, this is just my preferred method!
excellent tutorial. Really helped me with a loose siding issue I was struggling with. Thanks!
Glad to hear it! You’re welcome! ☺️
That's how I've always done it, just common sense
Awesome! 😎
This would be useful if you showed the examples of what is incorrect. Otherwise, how will people know?
Yeah, not my best video. I have plans to redo this one and add images to show what I’m talking about. ✌️
You made it look so easy, nice work! i am sure its going to take me several tries before i get this right
Thanks! And good luck! It takes a little practice. 👍🏼
I don’t side too often and I forgot so much since I did a full job and your videos are so helpful bro, as a carpenter I can watch them and rematch them if I have to and not take up 45 minutes with unnecessary production 😂
Thanks, you’re welcome, and sorry ‘bout that - I think… 😊 lol. And yeah going backwards is a huge pet peeve of mine! 😉
Solid work
Thanks! 😊
Yuck
Hey Brandon, what tool do you suggest for cutting j channel? I have tin snips but they leave a bad finish. What kind of shears are those? Do you know the size? Cheers!
I use these: Andy 3” siding snips amzn.to/3QD05Zv . That is an Amazon affiliate link, where I get a small commission (they don’t mark the products up). They take a bit of practice, but that’s all I use now. Wiss does have some tin snips that have smooth edges that would probably make a nice clean cut.
And always remember... Half the nails half the time! 🤣🤘🇺🇸
Anything worth doing is worth doing twice! 😜