Пікірлер

• 
  @nitinkumar294 күн бұрын

  Thank you very much! The method worked very well and in the first try itself. As suggested, I used pliers and twisted gently for 10-15 second disconnected from the board without any harm to pcb trace or the capacitor mess. Previously I used soldering iron and damaged pcb traces trying to remove these capacitors.

• 
  @varnasfix4 күн бұрын

  You are welcome! Been there done that :) I was also struggling to remove the capacitors using soldering irons and also damage the tracks or lift them! Glad the video is useful!

• 
  @IloveMelodie312 күн бұрын

  Do you still the wixl85?

• 
  @varnasfix12 күн бұрын

  Oh yes! Still going strong :)

• 
  @smithelectro-plumb299419 күн бұрын

  It's that capacitor short

• 
  @varnasfix19 күн бұрын

  capacitor was ok

• 
  @pault653321 күн бұрын

  When K is put after the Ω symbol, it reveals the tolerance range. F = +/- 1%, G = +/- 2%, J = +/- 5%, K = +/- 10%, M = +/- 20%. Example - Resistor with letter and digit code "4R7K" = 4.7Ω +/-10%

• 
  @varnasfix21 күн бұрын

  Very nice!

• 
  @drivewasher22 күн бұрын

  Thats 470K ohms

• 
  @varnasfix22 күн бұрын

  Did you watch the video? Another giveaway that it is not a 470k resistor is that you would need more than 2150 Volts to reach 10 watt at that resistance...

• 
  @MichaelKingsfordGray22 күн бұрын

  @@varnasfix You labelled this video "470ΩK".

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  @varnasfix22 күн бұрын

  @@MichaelKingsfordGray Yes that is what the video explains (hopefully) so a 470k ohms would be 470kΩK. It is confirmed that the resistor is a 470 ohms 10W. Thanks for your input!

• 
  @lilshex29 күн бұрын

  This worked without calibrating the throttle body ?

• 
  @varnasfix29 күн бұрын

  Yes it did work without the calibration but i did it anyway through MultiEcuScan. Maybe it was reset because the battery was disconnected for some time...

• 
  @lilshex29 күн бұрын

  @@varnasfix I'm having the same issue my Alfa Romeo giulietta, and I seen on the forums that I might need to calibrate the throttle once replaced. I don't have the multiecuscan, but I do have a Bluetooth obd. So that's why I was asking

• 
  @varnasfix29 күн бұрын

  @@lilshex Multiecuscan has a free version but the free version won't let you calibrate (if i remember correctly). If your OBD tool is ELM327 it is compatible with MES. The "registered" version costs 50e so it is not that bad... Hope that helps!

• 
  @lilshex21 күн бұрын

  @@varnasfix last question do you need to have the car ignition switch to on or should the car be fully running? To trigger the throttle learn on the obd?

• 
  @varnasfix19 күн бұрын

  @@lilshex If you mean within MultiEcuScan just follow the instructions. If you try to manually trigger the "adaptation" by disconnecting the battery, disconnect the negative pole (all of it not just the clip portion) for 30 minutes... Please note that you may need the code for the stereo after...

• 
  @fern250Ай бұрын

  I have the same PCB with same fault.. really helped me to repair thank you for sharing....

• 
  @varnasfixАй бұрын

  Thank you for your comment! I am glad the video was helpful. It seems to be a common problem with these PCBs...

• 
  @edwardsingh8563Ай бұрын

  Could it be the multi air solenoid or the multi air brick under the rocker cover and multi air filter next to the timing belt

• 
  @varnasfixАй бұрын

  The issue was resolved by replacing the throttle body and the problem was confirmed to be the throttle position potentiometer inside the throttle body as seen in the video. Generally problems with the multair unit create a fault code that is stored in the ECU. Whenever a solenoid goes bad in the unit it will generate a fault code. About the multiair filter? It is a service item and if someone does not replace it they should at least remove it and clean it! Personally I did replace it with a new one sometime ago....

• 
  @edwardsingh8563Ай бұрын

  @varnasfix I'm looking at buying a mito for dirt cheap, but it has a multiair failure. The car is far away so I haven't looked at it. I was hoping it was the throttle body so I could replace it while I'm there instead of going back and forth, as it is a 6 hour trip one way. If it's not the throttle body, then it's not worth buying. Is the multi air code generic or specific to the throttle body.

• 
  @varnasfixАй бұрын

  @@edwardsingh8563 The multiair problem and the throttle body problem are two totally different problems with different symptoms.... When the multiair is faulty you get misfire error codes stored, also you hear the engine misfiring.... With the throttle body there aren't any codes stored or just the throttle position sensor error.. Of course you need an OBD reader to read the ECU faults.... It would be better to send someone local there to read the codes and send a report back to you...

• 
  @oscarkaiser4321Ай бұрын

  Hi Varnas Where did you get/buy the replacement diaphragm valve?

• 
  @varnasfixАй бұрын

  Check a couple of comments below... it really depends no your country. You are better finding a local store to get them...

• 
  @AlanWest-w2zАй бұрын

  Many thanks, the smaller spring popped out on strip down and I didn't see where it came from. Your video showed me the correct positioning on re-assembly.

• 
  @jamesobriant1417Ай бұрын

  I have the whirlpool wfw94heaw0 and I can’t find the screw to turn it down

• 
  @varnasfixАй бұрын

  The sensor that it uses does not seem to have any adjustments. It is fixed from factory...

• 
  @bijisivan7204Ай бұрын

  Informative video 👏👏👏

• 
  @playstation2bigs2 ай бұрын

  Why that capacitors 1000uf 16 volts swollen ?

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  The internal series resistance of the capacitor rises which heats up and boils the electrolyte inside the capacitor which in turn produces gases and internal pressure rises to the point that they blow their top in order to vent the gas. If you see the aluminum heatsink has a mark from their gases. Most of the capacitors have an indentation on top for that specific reason. It is a straight giveaway that the capacitor is damaged when you see the tops swollen like that.

• 
  @csongorsztanka85992 ай бұрын

  Hello! I have a Delonghi 4200S coffee machine with electronics type 5213213691. I replaced the resistor R55 47 Ohms 3W and the coil L1 1mH, I checked the two capacitors C1, C3- 4700 nanofarads 400V, they show a good value, I also replaced the capacitor C2- 100 nanofarads... ..but when I powered it up, the R55 resistor and the L1 coil burned out at once. Nothing else appears to be burned out on the circuit. I did not replace the LNK364GN, but it does not appear to be burned. The varistors were not burned out, but I replaced the VDR1 varistor anyway. Where could the fault be, a short circuit? What should I watch? Thanks for the help! Sorry, but I translated it with Google Translate. I hope you understand.

• 
  @brittnylaurel2 ай бұрын

  I can’t get to the plug, is there any other option pls ?

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  Find (by elimination) the fuse on your panel board that cuts power to the washing machine. Otherwise turn off the mains...

• 
  @redpillras34562 ай бұрын

  Thank you 👊

• 
  @redpillras34562 ай бұрын

  Thank you 👊

• 
  @redpillras34562 ай бұрын

  Thank you 👊

• 
  @petrosmanolakis2962 ай бұрын

  Γιατί Αγγλικά και όχι Ελληνικά μάστορα;

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  Απευθύνεσαι σε όλο τον κόσμο και λειτουργεί σωστά (σχεδόν) το Auto-translate του youtube για τους υπότιτλους.. Αυτή ήταν η σκέψη..

• 
  @AbdullahKahramanPhD2 ай бұрын

  Great video! Same capacity caps with different voltage ratings will have different ESR values. You can have a look at the ESR table for this, there are tons of them on Google

• 
  @drorhaz2 ай бұрын

  Subscribed! Great channel and from greece ❤ my favorite place.

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  Welcome!

• 
  @victimovtalent60362 ай бұрын

  Bad connection

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  I totally agree! It had a runout result!

• 
  @merlin54762 ай бұрын

  This is why i buy basic washing machines and basic tumble dryers. Not much to go wrong & when it does its very simple to fix..

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  That is so true!

• 
  @Kacavida112 ай бұрын

  Yes, hard to get mechanical w. machines these days.

• 
  @miroslavstevic20362 ай бұрын

  Nice ...

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  Customer has confirmed washing machine is working fine!

• 
  @solartonytony58682 ай бұрын

  ...the timing chain has a bit of slack, about 1/2" or so, on the driver's side ... passenger side is tight, the side where the tensioner is installed ...the chain, sprockets, all look good & shinny, no sign of damage as far as the eye can see ... should this be a concern ? G54B engine, 2.6L auto, gas

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  You should be good. Those chains make a lot of noise when they go bad, you would definitely hear it...

• 
  @maxmaksimov45572 ай бұрын

  Hey, thanks for the vid. Where did you get the replacement part?

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  You are welcome! I got the part from a local shop in my country, i doubt they have international shipping. You can search google for the part number 18150061700 and your country "code" to check for local shops, for example for France search "18150061700 *.fr" without the quotation marks. I see a shop called wolfswinkel in the Netherlands that has it in stock but it better and cheaper if you can find it in the country you are situated. Hope that helps!

• 
  @mike01243 ай бұрын

  Ευχαριστώ πολύ

• 
  @ve24303 ай бұрын

  It's off because you reset the system by disconnecting the plugs. It likely came back, I'm sure.

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  Actually it is because i disconnected the battery to do the procedure and that is how it got reseted. I want to do i video update about that... And yes it has come back. The treatment on the plug is to prevent that. After moving the seat all the way to the front and back the light has appeared.

• 
  @ve24303 ай бұрын

  @@varnasfix you told the guy 2 years ago in the comments below that you didn't disconnect the battery. Gotcha! 😎 Lol.. so which one is it? And did you ever fix the light for good? If so, how?

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  @@ve2430 Yes that is why i want to do a video update on the subject... I didn't know then what i know now :) Even the slightest disruption in the airbag circuit will cause a fault to be stored and displayed by the airbag light. So I must have disconnected the battery as there no other way to reset the code except with a OBD scanner that has SRS level diagnostics.. Will try to do the video update as soon as possible!

• 
  @ve24302 ай бұрын

  @@varnasfix there's a chart that shows what the problem might be based on how the air bag light blinks. Helpful to get closer to the problem.

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  @@ve2430 Yes part of the chart is shown at 0:35 of the video.

• 
  @user-is1wi4rh9q3 ай бұрын

  or you can use a thread locker glue... easy and convenient to use no more P0172 or P101 error code 😂

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  That is a good idea!

• 
  @FgdgfdXcvbj-mn4kc3 ай бұрын

  I needed the card for the Essam model 6620

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  The card should be the same in both models… but if you check for new part they are at a very reasonable price!

• 
  @user-ft3oj7uk7c3 ай бұрын

  Bro where'd you get that soldering iron???

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  That is a generic 150w soldering iron...

• 
  @mulanjamilah78492 ай бұрын

  I am a coin engraver and want to make pins for clothes. Is it possible to add a safety pin to the back of a nickel coin?

• 
  @mulanjamilah78492 ай бұрын

  what is regular wire type?

• 
  @varnasfix2 ай бұрын

  @@mulanjamilah7849 guess you could solder a pin on the back. I don't know how well it would hold.

• 
  @hungdennis8493 ай бұрын

  Hi I have a question about the brake pads, because 3 months ago, I bring my car to the garage do the brake job, they help me to replace the new brembo Xtra discs and pads, and now the pads have clicking noise when I am parking my car, especially when I change the direction to move forward and backward, every changing direction I hit brake, it have a click sound. I asked them to check it again two weeks ago, after the checking they say it is completely normal for the brembo 4 pots Caliper, because the pads are moving inside the caliper. But it is a bit annoying, I am thinking to change new pads and hope the clicking sounds will gone, but which pads do you suggest? Do you think EBC pads will a bit larger then brembo, so the shifting will be lesser than brembo now? Thank you Dennis

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  Hello there! First of all are you 100% sure you have the correct brake pads installed and that all the hardware (shim plate and metal piece/spring) was installed correctly? In part 1 of the video i got the correct brake pad part number but the pads were mixed inside the box and got 1X correct and 1X wrong part kzread.info/dash/bejne/ap-IpZqRYsnJfdY.html... Also applying a tiny bit of copper grease on the side of the pads as seen at 7:20 will help with squeaking / clucking sounds... Nevertheless a tiny bit of clicking sound when moving from forward to reverse and vice versa is normal... hope that helps!

• 
  @KargasKargas-cb1wk3 ай бұрын

  Καλημέρα θα ήθελα νά σέ ρωτήσω έχουμε τό ίδιο πλυντήριο αλλά εμένα δεν σταματάει να πλένει

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  Καλό μήνα! δεν σταματάει και δεν βγάζει κάποιο error με τα led; δεν μου έχει τύχει κάτι τέτοιο...

• 
  @KargasKargas-cb1wk3 ай бұрын

  Ναι δεν σταματάει σέ κάποιο πρόγραμμα μπορεί να πλένει συνέχεια μόνο σήμερα τό πρωί σταμάτησε πρέπει νά τό βάζω σέ κάποιο συγκεκριμένο πρόγραμμα;

• 
  @varnasfix3 ай бұрын

  @@KargasKargas-cb1wk Το πρόγραμμα δεν έχει και τόσο σημασία αλλά καλό είναι να δοκιμάσεις αν και στα άλλα προγράμματα έχει την ίδια συμπεριφορά... Δυστυχώς δεν μου έχει τύχει τέτοια βλάβη...

• 
  @Bassoon1982Ай бұрын

  Καλημέρα, αν δεν ζεσταίνεται το νερό ίσως να έχει καεί η αντίσταση

• 
  @KargasKargas-cb1wkАй бұрын

  @@Bassoon1982καλημέρα σάς σάς ευχαριστώ πολύ πού μπήκατε στην διαδικασία να απαντήσετε μετά από τόσο καιρό αλλά ευτυχώς μας άλλαξαν πλυντήριο 😁

• 
  @JustinRM204 ай бұрын

  Much obliged, thank you!!!!!! As a young guy living on his own it's just a task of figuring it all out, and damn does it feel good if someone on the internet has the answers

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Happy the video helped!

• 
  @Utlathram804 ай бұрын

  It's hard to pull cover off

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  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Something must be stuck in there..

• 
  @Utlathram804 ай бұрын

  @@varnasfix hello I have drained it but the flashing light still occur what must be done next?

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  @@Utlathram80 Are exactly the same leds flashing? If yes then it is the same error... Make sure there aren't any foreign objects obstructing the drain pump. Do you hear the drain pump working or trying to work? if not maybe the drain pump itself is the problem. If the flashing leds are different then it is an indication of a different error...

• 
  @tamastorontali33394 ай бұрын

  Hi! Nice work. I think it's even more interesting if you present fault finding and measurements as well, not just soldering.

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Thanks for your comment! You are absolutely right! Presenting fault finding and measurements would be more interesting and it is something i try to do in the newer videos... Camera setup did not help for that plus the "first repair" with the second repair were many months apart which made more difficult to diagnose in front of the camera.

• 
  @dildeepsingh39264 ай бұрын

  You legend. It worked amazingly many thanks

• 
  @martinradoychev81834 ай бұрын

  Was that caused by a frost damage?

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Don't think that was caused by frost.... It was in operation for 10-12 years and the rubber just aged and cracked..

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Definitely going to give it a try! Thanks!

• 
  @wiono4 ай бұрын

  just pour solder between pins. Same effect.

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Yes that works too! Although it gets the part much hotter until it is ready to come off....

• 
  @benellias874 ай бұрын

  I use stranded wire...

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Stranded wire will suck the solder also! On the other hand the solid wire seems to apply equal pressure to all the pins...

• 
  @benellias874 ай бұрын

  @@varnasfix yes true, but it stays in place, when stranded wire absorbs more solder cools down quickly to prevent plastics from melting and can be use for cleanup... Its just a similar way of doing it.. disadvantages cannot be used on very long chips

• 
  @WerewolfMaster4 ай бұрын

  I'm doing it without the wire but it's interesting idea - I admit. I will try.

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Go for it!

• 
  @Talmiior4 ай бұрын

  using a copper braided wick would have been much faster here. Highly recommend ya give that a shot instead a piece of copper wire

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the tip! I am going to give that a try... But how much faster can it be? Plus 1mm2 copper wire is so cheaper... Wick is needed anyway to clean the pads...

• 
  @Talmiior4 ай бұрын

  A chunk shorter. Mostly it's just less cleanup afterwards @@varnasfix

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  @robertocarloscambilloantic7614 ай бұрын

  Una casa nsulta quiero saber de voltaje en tregua esa fuente

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  tried google translate but did not understand...

• 
  @MonsterZack54 ай бұрын

  I'm impressed at how well that worked.

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Me too actually! Did not expect that at all...

• 
  @krellft4 ай бұрын

  Those Weller tips will outlast any current tip from Hakko and the 900M iron station varieties ... they are worth their money when replaced ... glad to see you leave solder (tinned) on the tips after a job, it protects the tips from oxidisation and corrosion ... those Weller irons are a solid bit of kit ... shame you didn't change the cable though ...

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Those tips are solid! And yes tinning is a must for longevity of the tips but also for proper soldering... The tip i have destroyed are from brute force (the metal came off) and from forgetting the soldering iron switched on! Now about the cable? Honestly I couldn't believe it was so soft and flexible after all those years so decided to keep the original...

• 
  @krellft4 ай бұрын

  I got the exact same iron that I "borrowed" from work back in the 80's ... I've recently just refurbished mine but didn't change/replace anything, except the soldering iron cable, to a longer round silicon lead ... I love this iron ... it has just the right wattage to cover a lot of the work I do ... I also have a small tip iron station for micro soldering ... Weller is a good make ...

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Yes it just works! And it is very versatile with all the different tips... On the Hakko knockoff i have a small tip for the same reason... But most of the times i prefer the Weller with the small tip.. Speed wise in soldering it just does not compare...

• 
  @georgeikonomeas52114 ай бұрын

  Καλησπέρα, Μπράβο φίλε μου σε ευχαριστουμε, το καθαρισα , αλλα εμενα το λαστιχακι ήταν οκ, αυτο που παρατηρησα ειναι οτι το "τακ" που κάνει η ηλεκτροβαλβιδα ίσα που ακουγεται, υπαρχει περιπτωση να μην δουλεθει με δυναμη; Ή αυτα ή δουλευουν ή δεν δουλέυουν καθολου; Πάντως το έβαλα σε βρυση (γιατι διαβασα ότι θελει να εχει και πιεση για να δουλεψει)( και δουλευει κανονικά απλα ισα που ακουγεται το ανοιγμα κλεισιμο.....δεν ξερω εαν οφείλεται αλλου αυτό....

• 
  @varnasfix4 ай бұрын

  Χαίρομαι που βοήθησε το βίντεο! 👍 Νομίζω δεν είναι πολύ έντονο το κλικ. Είχα βάλει και γράσο σιλικόνης και λειτουργούσε πολύ ομαλά. Σίγουρα έχει σημασία και σε τι κατάσταση είναι μπαταρία...

• 
  @georgeikonomeas52114 ай бұрын

  ευχαριστω πολυ!@@varnasfix

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  @richardanderson54245 ай бұрын

  You should have replaced the cable. It looked really bad.