I've always had a passion for cars so I decided the best way to learn more about them was to build one from the ground up. After 6 years of dreaming I pulled the trigger and started building a Factory Five 818. It's been an amazing experience and I hope you find my build as interesting as I do!
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what a great help this video has been. changed all 4 pads on my '17 C43 with ease. dealership would've ripped me off with what the quoted me. just wanted to give credit and appreciation, thanks bro!
Glad it helped! Now you can put that money towards something more fun.
Does a screwdriver not damage the rotor when prying against it?
If you're rough you might be able to scratch the rotor. Helps to keep the flat head of the screwdriver flat against the rotor when prying, but I didn't see any damage during my change. Rotors already see rocks/debris on the road. I'm not concerned about it.
What carsssss can I buy that I can get in and drive of with zero hours. And zero hours of constant fixing. Otherwise enjoyed your video. They remind me of not doing a build myself. ✌️
Yeah it's a big build and not everybody wants to take on such a long project. I really enjoyed it though. Building is half the fun. There are builders that will build the kit for you, but you'll spend $65k on an 818 convertible with Forma. www.formacars.com/formacars-ffr-818
You’re amazing! Saved me $$
Glad it helped!
Impact driver info? Could I use any type or it has to a certain one?
The manual impact driver that I used to remove the brake rotor screws? Any impact driver with a Phillips head attachment will work.
@@mikecamera818 The Ryobi, how about that one?
This is what I have. Has 300lb ft of torque to get the lug nuts off easily. www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-3-Speed-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P261/205885687
@@mikecamera818 also can you help me find me a hub? I can’t seem to find one for a reasonable price. I need to a front driver side wheel bearing/hub but for my car it’s a bit difficult to find or if I find one they seem to be over price like $300
I'm wondering if you are aware that FF is no longer producing the 818 and what your thoughts are? I think its a mistake on their part.. what a great mid engine platform! I was looking into it when I got an email from FF that they are no longer producing this model 😔
Yeah they paused the 818 last year. Not sure if they are discontinuing it, releasing a 3rd gen, or just paused to focus on higher volume cars like the roadster. The 818 is an awesome platform at a low price. Hopefully they offer something similar again.
did you replace the front diff? how much did you put there?
The front diff shares fluid with the trans. You only need to change the trans fluid in the front.
Imagine spending $36,000 and only having something as fast as a Subaru
Here are the results from my last autocross. I'm in 34th place overall. There are 2 stock WRX's, in 75th and 82nd and a heavily modified STI in 38th. All behind me. Also way more fun to build a custom car from the ground up than just buy an off the shelf car :) www.ckrscca.org/live/RawDay1.html
Cool things about kit cars is that you know how to fix it once you're done building it. Would be nice if a K24 would fit. Or put a VW TDI and get 60 MPG?
You do know everything about the car, including every imperfection. A couple people have modified the car to fit a K Series. Definitely a more awkward layout for this kit but possible. I know the Subaru engines aren't loved by everybody but they're a compact, potent turbo engine for cheap. A great match for this car unless you're doing some serious racing. I prefer speed over mileage but a TDI would be cool!
Hi, so my wheel bearing has a lil play and just wanna know...Do I gotta replace the whole hub or can I just replace bearing in the hub?
Much easier to replace the hub as shown in my video. That's how the replacement part is sold. If you can track down just the bearing you'll have to press the old one out and press the new one in which requires you to remove the hub anyways. It'll be more work.
Thank you for including tool sizes, it helps.
No problem!
How many Litre goes in please ?
~1 liter. You're supposed to fill until the fluid leaks out of the fill hole. It's explained at 1:40 in the video.
Try like -3° next time. I'm in a street class, and I use -2.5°f/-1.5°r. Other friends with more serious XA/XB and ST builds have more in the neighborhood of -4° to -2.5° or so, depending on car. For autocross, though, go a lot farther up on camber than you would normally use on a road course.
I agree I need more but I'm taking small steps to get there. I want to see what camber level starts to hurt my straight line acceleration / braking.
@@mikecamera818 you'll probably start to get there around -3 to -4, based on how stuff I've driven in the past felt. why do you want to find that out, specifically?
If I jump to -4deg and create a problem or the car is difficult to drive, I wouldn't know how much to back off. I'd rather change 1deg at a time and watch how things are changing. It'll give me a chance to adjust my driving and find what I like. More info will just help me optimize my setup and I find it interesting.
@@mikecamera818 good call. try to make the changes between runs, if possible. or maybe spend a day doing doubles if your region offers it. run your first heat of runs with it at your baseline camber setup, and then change it to what you're considering for the second heat and then write all your thoughts down as your having them between runs. it's usually better to try and make changes back to back if possible as opposed to making them potentially a couple of weeks apart.
Using the trip computer for mileage measurements when the tuner is altering the signals is not any means accurate. Only real test is filling up and testing for 200+ miles and filling up again. Then running another test.
I've correlated the trip computer with filling/calculating. It's very similar. Accuracy is also less of a concern when both tests were done the same way, apples to apples. This was just a quick comparison and the trend holds true. Slowing down has a bigger effect than cruising tuned vs untuned.
Do you think it should be similar for a 2013 sorrento?
I would guess it's similar but have never done one
Finally! 1st vid ive found thats axtually helpful!
Glad you found it useful!
It’s crazy how simple some things are that we would pay possibly $200 for if it wasn’t for KZread 😅 I literally put this off cuz I thought I would have to take the door off. Did this with a butter knife and 3 minutes 🤣
Lol exactly why I made this video. I thought it was going to be complicated too until I started working on it.
@@mikecamera818 do you have any idea where to find an orange lit one? Mine ended up being white in color so at night it looks off
@@TheBrokeBoyMycologist this is the one I bought. The part number has changed slightly though. The plastic under my buttons is white instead of black like my original switch, but nobody will ever notice. It lights up orange like the rest of my interior switches. www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-door-window-switch-panel-genuine-mercedes-22290568007h52
people will argue like crazy but all of the fastest track cars are rear weight bias a bit less than 60:40 rear biased. F1, F3, Formula V, Indy car. LMP1 cars. C8 z06, 911. It's not just mid engine, it's rear biased mid engine. 50/50 is something to aspire to in a front engine car.
Definitely doesn't hurt to have some extra weight over the drive wheels
I wanna buy it … want you sell it ? 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks! I'm not sure if I'll ever sell it though!
Tip. Finish the inside of the mould with a clear-coat paint, then apply a PVA mould release. The purpose behind the clear-coat is to give you a mirror finish on your object, which saves a lot of finishing work. When making a fiberglass mould, we actually apply spray release first, then apply the objects paint, then do the fiberglassing... your object comes out prepainted and ready for a quick sand and final coat.
That sounds like a much better process. I was trying to see how good a simpler process was, but of course it had its downsides.
What size socket for the 4 bolts holding the hub ?
Mine was 14mm
Where did you get the donor pallet? Does factory five sell those?
A company called Very Cool Parts
What would've cost several hundred dollars to change at MB, ended up being $30 as my first DIY fix on my glc300. THANK YOU!
Glad to help!
Same for a 2019?
Should be it's the same engine. Double check the oil capacity in your owner manual just to make sure.
@mikecamera818 thanks! Considering a 2019 c43 amg!
Smash! Can't wait to see what's next
Thanks! Constantly making improvements!
Nice job bro. But you could use Fumoto Drain Valve performing oil change.
Thanks, I've never used one but my friends like them too
Thanks Worked great!! Was having trouble getting lock assembly out for door replacement 2016 KIA Sportage
Glad it helped!
Well done on your improvements. A good set of tyres alone can make such a big difference to performance. In regards to your over heating issue, are your rear guard vents functional? I think you could get some decent amount of air flowing into the engine bay through those vents. Maybe also having air venting in through the rear quarter windows too...
The side vents and roof scoop feed air into the engine bay, but only when the car is moving. There's about 15min of idling in between each autocross run where the car just sits there hot. I open the hatch to let some heat out but apparently that's not enough on a 90F day. Car has never had a problem on the street.
@@mikecamera818 Aah I see, that makes sense. Then I guess you just need a way to exhaust all that heat between sessions. Be it opening the hatch, which youre clearly doing, and or with some exhaust fans or something.
@frankalarcon635 yep! For now I'm just going to bring a small fan to autocross with me. Might look into wiring some auxiliary fans into the engine bay that I can turn on at the track.
I've seen some guys glue black yoga mat on the inside of their wheel wells. Apparently it holds up pretty well and quiets the rock clanking. Nice job improving out on track!
Thanks! It's nice to see constant improvement. I didn't cover my wheel wells because my old tires never flung rocks. I see why people added padding after getting these softer tires. They pick up everything.
I really like your build. I thought about buying one. Looks like a fun car to build.
Thank you! I really enjoyed building it and keep looking for things to upgrade.
it looks great but I just cant justify it over an m240i bmw that can hit 400 with just a tune. its the fastest cheap car you can get besides an s2000
The m240 is definitely a better street car/daily driver but even with 400hp doesn't come close to my power to weight. (BMW = 9.7lbs/hp or S2000 = 11.9lbs/hp vs My 818 = 7.6lbs/hp). I loved my 335i though, you can't go wrong.
i did not understand who made the shifter cable go to the front then straight to back? i did not heard well this part
The cheap shifter that comes with the car kit is made for a front engine car. So the kit has a 14 foot long cable that runs to the front of the car and loops all the way to the back of the car where the transmission is. It makes the shifter feel loose and sloppy. I put in a shifter made for a mid engine car, so the cable runs to the back of the car and used a shorter 8 foot cable. Feels much better.
Nice job mate, I'm thinking about doing the same but afraid tht the heat resistant paint mite not come off when I brake, does the brake pads defiantly take the paint off even if it's heat resistant?
I used high heat paint. The pads had no trouble scraping the paint off.
@@mikecamera818 excellent, thanks for the advice bro
is there not a timing chain kit for the wrx? and always try to get a donor car. you can donate what's left to a charity and get a tax break, or part it out and make all your money back, eventually. that takes a while.
I did a timing belt kit, shown at 3:49. Used this kit www.fastwrx.com/products/oem-quality-timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump-2006-2007-wrx-2004-2021-sti-2004-2007-forester- I started building my car in a 1 car garage condo in Michigan. I didn't have the space or time (half the year is winter) to work on a donor car. I paid a little more for a donor pallet but it worked well for my situation. Would have done a donor car if I had a bigger garage!
@mikecamera818 yes I see that. Timing belts are ticking time bombs. Timing chains don't deteriorate over time like rubber belts do.... ultimately it doesn't matter. 818s are a waste of time and money. you can just get a boxster or cayman used for less than half what you'd spend building the 818, and the porsche won't try to kill you in a wreck like the 818 will.
I filled those gaps on my mount with poly it still has flex but much stiffer
That's probably a good compromise for $10.
Daaaaaamn dude those Miatas. You have to dominate. You have the best platform in existence
I thought having a 2000lb, mid engine car would make me really competitive, but here I am placing in the bottom 20%. Didn't realize how important tires were until I started racing. We'll see how big of a difference my new 200TW tires make soon!
You have to spend money on tires to be fast. driving skill is the other half the most time is lost in the slolem for new drivers
@@mikecamera818 in my city the dominating cars have been Model 3 Performance on Unplugged Performance coilovers, 19" wheels (come stock 20"), light rims, 265 square setup with grippy semislicks. They also swapped adjustable susspension components from UP. Mazda MX5 etc are then quite far behind.
@OlavAlexanderMjelde this week the top 3 in order were Miata, Eagle Talon, and then a Tesla Model 3 like you described. The Miata crushed the Tesla with a 31.6 vs a 32.5. Then more Miatas in 5th and 6th place also.
You have the best chassis based off power to weight ratio the Teslas are so stupid heavy in comparison. what makes them fast is torque and the tires to pull out of the corner I would focus on grip. if you have great tires an alignment with some toe out and heavy camber will gain seconds. The gear ratios can also gain some serious acceleration
When you enter the menu for the rear parking brake disengagement, can you shut the vehicle off while changing the rear pads? Or does the ignition need to remain ON?
You can turn the vehicle off. You'll just have to get back into the menu to exit the brake fitting setting.
@@mikecamera818cheers man thanks. Literally just finished about 5 minutes ago - thanks for the video it was a great help. Note however, on the AMG steering wheel the buttons that you press to enter the rear brake release function are different. For my 2020 GLC43 with the AMG sport steering wheel it was HOLD the “HOME/BACK” button (right hand side of steering wheel) and TAP the “OK” touchpad button directly next to the “HOME/BACK” button.
Good to know! Thanks for the extra info.
Been doing the same thing for over 15 years to three different vehicles. Never any problems. Always works great.
Worked great for me too. Brakes look awesome almost 4 years later.
In 2003, I painted my rotors on my 2003 sentra se-r spec v when it was brand new and got criticized by many people. Ive never stopped doin ever since on my other cars. The car wen thru autocrossing, road racing thru streets of willow raceway, i even drove it from Los angeles, CA to Pansacola Florida for some military training. The stock oem rotors lasted for 10years. Slapped a new sets of brake rotors n pads from r1concepts did the same thing by painting it. It still on my car as of today. Well i dont drive that car as much anymore with 245k miles😂
can you show how you popped out the switch assembly which is the most inportant part of the whole repair , what you are showing is worthless
Usually people don't insult the person they're asking help from... but we'll pretend you're frustrated and not just rude to everybody. To remove the whole assembly from the door, I talk about prying one side up before the other. Because there's a tab that holds the assembly in, that has to slide out. You can also see it in the video when I reinstall the new assembly. To remove the switches from the bezel, there are several tabs around the middle you have to gently pry to release. Also shown in my video when I install the bezel onto the new switches.
@@mikecamera818 You are very kind . Unfortunately some people naturally rude.
Your brain is worthless its common sense 😂
Real fuel consumption?
22mpg mixed / 28mpg highway
Don't Force it get a bigger hammer
I use a 3lb mini sledge hammer a lot to keep from busting my knuckles
If the engine is about to reach 90k , what oil is recommend to use since it’s considered “high mileage” ?
Most oil brands recommend using high mileage oil after 75k miles. I haven't used them on any of my motors (Acura, Subaru, BMW, Mercedes, Hyundai) with less than 120k. If they started burning oil I might try a high mileage oil to see if the extra seal conditioners could help. I wouldn't say it's required to use high mileage oil at a certain mileage. Just my experience.
I know this is an old video but is there any chance you ever got an answer for fuel economy in town? Stopping and going repeatedly.
I never tested city driving. This kind of tuner changes the engine settings more under heavy throttle. If you accelerate slowly the mileage should be close to stock.
@@mikecamera818 I’m curious if it may even help a bit
@@PuffDaddyTM Trying to sell the tuner to your spouse? Driving a C43 Mileage is not my main concern. Fun for gallons is the thing. 😊
hello do i loosen the 32 mm before lifting the vehicle? thanks in advance
i am using socket wrench and pipe
You'll have to lift the vehicle to take the wheel off, before you can access the 32mm nut. If the axle is spinning when you try loosening the nut, you may have to use another wrench or 2x4 to hold the wheel studs still. If the brakes are still installed on the car you can also have somebody hold the brake pedal down to keep the rotor from spinning. While you wrench on the 32mm.
one more question my friend has 2013 kia soul is it the same as this?@@mikecamera818
I doubt it's exactly the same but it should be very similar. If you can figure out one car you should be able to do the other.
Hi, this is the same engine as in my E400, the manual says 8L of oil, you’re the second video I see that says 6.9L and the first guy did an oil change on the same car as mine as well, why 6.9L when the manual says 8L ? Same m276 engine by the way.
The user manual for my C450 says 6.9 quarts (which is 6.5 liters). I confirmed this was correct by checking the dipstick after I changed the oil. Easier to start low (~6 liters), check your dipstick, and add a little more oil until you're full if you're still unsure. If you overfill it's harder to drain off a couple liters.
Wow - that was easy. Thank s for the video, although, you started a step ahead getting the took inside to lift the mechanism out (where your video started) that was nerve racking :D Other than that - Great thanks
Glad it helped!
7:24 You PAINTED the BRAKE ROTORS?? Is that some kind of a joke or you wanted to see if people were paying attention?
Here's a video explaining it. Gives the best paint job. Pads just scrub it off the contact surface during the first few brakings. No problems at all. kzread.info/dash/bejne/mHt128WChdbQqJc.html
you could gain a lot more by cleaning up your apex and early throttle. What cars are in your class?
Agreed. I felt like I was slow to learn the course this time. I didn't anticipate the turns very well. I'm still catching the faster cars though so I'm not doing too terrible. I'm in XB with a few Miatas, turbo MR2, and a Miata cut down to the frame with a cage added,
What car is this?
It's a Factory Five 818
Mike Camera, You're fantastic! Let's be friends and have fun!
Cheers!