Provided nothing is broken could you but just put the whole thing into an ultrasonic cleaner? If you did that what would you have to regrease?
@CadenzaCycles-GreveInChiantiАй бұрын
Thank you for the video, nice work!
@cloatza89Ай бұрын
Hi, can this pump make a ticking noise? Mine is working fine but the engine makes a ticking noise, only accelerating (injectors have been refurbished) . Thanks
@alanmannАй бұрын
No expert - but a light ticking noise is usually injectors - there is a check valve in the pump, which could be worn and give a similar sound. Try putting a screwdriver on the pump, and rest the handle on your ear, and see if the sound is louder in your ear. Kind of a stethoscope teqnique. Otherwise, ticking sounds can be you cam/valve lifters not pressurising with oil. (can't remember this engine that well anymore) Hope that helps.
@cloatza89Ай бұрын
@@alanmannhi, the valve you are talking about is mounted on the rail on may car(320cdi w210). I’ll change it this week to see if it make any difference. It’s a fine ticking noise only on acceleration. Thanks for answering 👍🏾
@alanmannАй бұрын
@@cloatza89 Check your oil pressure (if you can) - especially when doing higher revs - If the oil lamp on the dashboard flickers on, then probably a blocked sump pickup. Ticking when revving could be lack of oil getting to the cams... Just a thought. Good luck.
@user-gn1df7km8lАй бұрын
Rubber grease not axle grease
@HulluJanne2 ай бұрын
/watch?v=sqQ5cfgAde8 This is probably the most comprehensive look to the common issues in a RF7J diesel. Just turn on the captions, even though not perfect, they still mostly make sense. Bought a Mazda 5 recently with a blown engine and just under 400 000km. 6 of the 8 rocker arms were snapped, oil had exited from the camshaft seal and ended on the timing belt. Turbo's oil path seemed to be clogged and the axle was snapped. No oil in the exhaust side, but lots on the intake side and in the intercooler. Camshaft bearing surfaces were eaten up, as was the rocker arm shaft from the underside. The engine turned fine with the starter, once I made sure nothing was hitting. Even seemed to have compression. At some point I'll probably tear into the failed engine to see if there is damage to the lower parts of the engine. I got another running engine for it and I'm making some huge investments to the car. I don't know how much miles the "new" engine has, but it had sat in a car for 6 years and was just occasionally started and ran. It seems that there are a lot of things to consider. Not sure how a non-OEM ACEA C1 oil will work (I bought a few cans of Eurol Excence), as the wrecker guy in the video says that only genuine Mazda oil is to be used in these engines. My guess is that the previous owner used something else in it. Though one of the injector bottom washers had leaked and the injector was really stuck in it's hole, so that might also be the reason why the engine died. All of the stationary surfaces higher up under the valve cover were covered in thick tarry soot.
@familiaa.m.90972 ай бұрын
Can anyone send me a link of where i can buy that broken part? I have broke the same as him while cycling… or can anyone teach me how to repair it?
@alanmann2 ай бұрын
Could try ebay. but these things are pretty rare.
@TimothyTakemoto3 ай бұрын
Amazing. I think that this has convinced me I don't want to take it apart. Mine is a ST7800 which seems to be considerably different. Kudos.
@lunaluna71414 ай бұрын
Brilliant🎉
@brucelownhole5 ай бұрын
Thanks man, easy as.
@martinglynn56437 ай бұрын
He is unable to remove the hood, so he cut's it. DON'T DO THAT!. There are a couple of videos on that show how to remove the hood using a screwdriver - I've done it and it works fine!
@tucka12347 ай бұрын
The turbos are prone to failure,creating a possibility of shrapnel going through the engine
@hhhhhjjj2347 ай бұрын
My corsa opel 1.3 cdti does have the same hp pump The car won t start or very hard start when engine us warm after running about one houre I have to wait at least 15 min ti allow engine to cool down then it starts But there is no problem on cold start I was told it could be the faulty hp pump What do you think Anyway thanks for the vudeo
@buddys_dad7 ай бұрын
That is one beautiful English Horn stop!
@georgekotsalas35028 ай бұрын
Hello . I lost a fuse, in the video 2:24 ☹☹☹. Do you know where I can find such fuse ??? Thanks a lot .
@ap-lw87258 ай бұрын
Great Video.
@LEXICOGRAFFER9 ай бұрын
Really hoping for a companion video showing reassembly. One anomaly here is rhat early on, you shifted against the spring several clicks before beginning disassembly. The problem this caussed must have been edited out.
@victoryrc10 ай бұрын
This video is great. I'll be using it soon to investigate an oil leak and change the belt if need be. Have you ever found oil leaking from around the timing cover or under it? It could be at the base of the sump seal, but it's on that side. Will be diving in soon to see.
@juliuscaesar337411 ай бұрын
great viedo, didnt get the play out interely but for an overconfident, brave but stupid man who takes something apart witheout memorizing the order a real gem
@ruvar637311 ай бұрын
😢
@alanmann11 ай бұрын
Yep - big lessons learnt, change the injector seals at 100,000 regardless. .Don't wait for it. Any diesel car...
@abdeslamseghrouchni8567 Жыл бұрын
Gracias mi has ayudado mucho. Eres un crack
@jamalzerda7161 Жыл бұрын
Thank you
@kiandacoda6577 Жыл бұрын
Mazda makes excellent engines! i own a Mazdaspeed6 And Mazda6 SkyActive D! i change oil every 4000 km and i never had a single issue with them! best cars ever!
@bobmcrobertson848 Жыл бұрын
Incidentally this was Dr Longhurst’s final organ solo on the broadcast in late 2007 just before he formally retired. I grew up watching him and miss his elegant demeanor, controlled movement at the console and excellent sense of taste in registration. He never felt the need to end every loud solo piece on full organ with octave couplers… like perhaps others did and do now. You’ll note that the producers, by some miracle managed to not cut away to stock nature footage during the solo as they do every time these days.
@anthonylarsen2757 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for making this video
@trick-nd8fg Жыл бұрын
Turn the dang music off if you’re going to try to explain something 🤦♂️
@bawannawzad5693 Жыл бұрын
hello thanks in advance, i have the same mazda and has problems with the gas! it doesn't stay constant it plays up and down but only when accelerating, that means accelerating locks the gas level and there is no error message, do you think it has something to do with the toothed belt?
@Odminey Жыл бұрын
Thanks man
@pabloflorio4349 Жыл бұрын
Mazda engine's? Update yourself!! PSA?😉
@user-lz8ku4nr8c Жыл бұрын
Salam 2.2 611muhərikdi isti mator da xoda getmir su 80 yuxarı olanda
@KacsaFacsaro Жыл бұрын
can you help me, hogy can i disassebly the break lever unit? 0:16
@smasherviolentwind5763 Жыл бұрын
Do you have to bench the pump after seal replacement? Or you just assemble it and mount it to the car? Great video and good explanation. Cheers
@dinnicusor5312 Жыл бұрын
problema este strangerea isuficienta a injectoarelor
@jefscolnago Жыл бұрын
What group set is this? Veloce?
@jovanzacevski Жыл бұрын
Did you have misfire on one cylinder and loud metal sound until engine warm ? And sometimes rpm will go bellow 750 and get back right away ? Thanks!
@joelamdin1629 Жыл бұрын
Do i Need to depressurise the common rail or anything before removal?
@davidelliott5843 Жыл бұрын
** Tip 1 ** - When you take the out the pump retaining screws, hold a magnet stick close by to catch the screws rather than drop them into the bowels of the engine bay. ** Tip 2 ** - A one size too small Torx bit will often appear to fit but will slip and chew the crew head. ALWAYS try the next size up as very likely to fit snugly and can't slip.
@davidelliott5843 Жыл бұрын
Capping the open pipes is VERY important. You could also brush loose dirt away with a shop vac to get rid of the bulk crud. Then get the whole pump into a wash tank to remove 95% of the loose crud that will be into every gap. It won't be the whole job but makes the later deep cleaning much easier.
@bcstech390 Жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks
@lloydb4529 Жыл бұрын
This engine has died from skipped oil changes. You changed the oil every 10,000 miles (16,100km). The Mazda specification is every 10,000km or 6 months whichever comes first. Modern engines have small oil passages plus when the oil filter fills it goes on bypass so the oil is not filtered and it chews out the bearings. Car manufacturers have pushed oil changes out a long way, too far in my opinion. Yes this engine has a soot problem and leaking injectors which necessitates more frequent oil changes if anything. In such a situation going from a recommended 10,000km to 16,100km is certain death for an engine
@atillaozturk7075 Жыл бұрын
I replaced the square o ring seal for the piston in my caliper and ever since I have brake fluid seeping out of MC reservoir cap...could the new seal be not 100% compatible or would I have introduced air in the brake lines.
@kirkgeahlen5532 Жыл бұрын
You are a lifesaver!! I had one which was disassembled and then illness caused a delay before I could put it back together and by then I forgot all the different steps! I wasn't even as tore down into it as you are at the 8 minute mark. And the way that you stop rotate and reshow parts per step before you actually take the next piece off it's just wonderful and how ALL videos of this type should be made by everyone!! KUDOS now I just have to find a way to download your video reverse it so I can play it backwards to put everything back together LOL
@alanmann Жыл бұрын
Glad you found it useful. That was a megga tricky one to take apart - probably did it 5 times before making a video which showed everything in it;s right place and the right way round :)
@kirkgeahlen5532 Жыл бұрын
@@alanmann I had a second one come in this week disassembled, LOL I wish these people would bring them in complete. But at least now it's ingrained in my head, LOL Thanks again!!!
@rogelioyxffsolis1940 Жыл бұрын
Si
@DG-vk2il Жыл бұрын
Very informative video. On my left pedal when I tried to untighten what you call the nylon sleeve (0:55 sec) it snap right at the pedal. Thus, unable to remove the main axle from the pedal body. Any idea on how to salvage my pedal ?
@alanmann Жыл бұрын
Hope you found a way. Not sure what to suggest other than lots of WD40 and maybe an ultrasound bath to loosen the rubbish that must have built up inside, oh, and patience...
@DG-vk2il Жыл бұрын
@@alanmann Just good for garbage :(
@namenotshown9277 Жыл бұрын
one more: would it be possible to change big end bearings without remove engine? after sump is removed how hard to get the strengthening plate ( or whatever it is) off to get access to crankshaft?
@namenotshown9277 Жыл бұрын
that oil pick up really is cactus or toast, perhaps oil pan should be removed every so often to check condition of pickup, it might be an indicator for whats going on, maybe not a bad way to go.
@namenotshown9277 Жыл бұрын
seafoam in the oil just before oil change might help, the dipstick has the extra high mark, what causes the oil to expand? fuel in the oil?
@user-kp1nb7zq2k Жыл бұрын
Opel corsa/combo 1,3 cdti engine?
@jdmguy44 Жыл бұрын
I've had several Mazda petrol models and never had any issues at all. Super reliable cars. Wouldn't touch a diesel model though.
@Joona_Kallinen Жыл бұрын
How did toi get tour turbo sounds like that? What did u do?
@pedecia Жыл бұрын
300.000KMs on your cars clock and Mazda doesn't make good engines? I hope my Mazda 3 will arrive at your miles!!! 🙂
Пікірлер
Provided nothing is broken could you but just put the whole thing into an ultrasonic cleaner? If you did that what would you have to regrease?
Thank you for the video, nice work!
Hi, can this pump make a ticking noise? Mine is working fine but the engine makes a ticking noise, only accelerating (injectors have been refurbished) . Thanks
No expert - but a light ticking noise is usually injectors - there is a check valve in the pump, which could be worn and give a similar sound. Try putting a screwdriver on the pump, and rest the handle on your ear, and see if the sound is louder in your ear. Kind of a stethoscope teqnique. Otherwise, ticking sounds can be you cam/valve lifters not pressurising with oil. (can't remember this engine that well anymore) Hope that helps.
@@alanmannhi, the valve you are talking about is mounted on the rail on may car(320cdi w210). I’ll change it this week to see if it make any difference. It’s a fine ticking noise only on acceleration. Thanks for answering 👍🏾
@@cloatza89 Check your oil pressure (if you can) - especially when doing higher revs - If the oil lamp on the dashboard flickers on, then probably a blocked sump pickup. Ticking when revving could be lack of oil getting to the cams... Just a thought. Good luck.
Rubber grease not axle grease
/watch?v=sqQ5cfgAde8 This is probably the most comprehensive look to the common issues in a RF7J diesel. Just turn on the captions, even though not perfect, they still mostly make sense. Bought a Mazda 5 recently with a blown engine and just under 400 000km. 6 of the 8 rocker arms were snapped, oil had exited from the camshaft seal and ended on the timing belt. Turbo's oil path seemed to be clogged and the axle was snapped. No oil in the exhaust side, but lots on the intake side and in the intercooler. Camshaft bearing surfaces were eaten up, as was the rocker arm shaft from the underside. The engine turned fine with the starter, once I made sure nothing was hitting. Even seemed to have compression. At some point I'll probably tear into the failed engine to see if there is damage to the lower parts of the engine. I got another running engine for it and I'm making some huge investments to the car. I don't know how much miles the "new" engine has, but it had sat in a car for 6 years and was just occasionally started and ran. It seems that there are a lot of things to consider. Not sure how a non-OEM ACEA C1 oil will work (I bought a few cans of Eurol Excence), as the wrecker guy in the video says that only genuine Mazda oil is to be used in these engines. My guess is that the previous owner used something else in it. Though one of the injector bottom washers had leaked and the injector was really stuck in it's hole, so that might also be the reason why the engine died. All of the stationary surfaces higher up under the valve cover were covered in thick tarry soot.
Can anyone send me a link of where i can buy that broken part? I have broke the same as him while cycling… or can anyone teach me how to repair it?
Could try ebay. but these things are pretty rare.
Amazing. I think that this has convinced me I don't want to take it apart. Mine is a ST7800 which seems to be considerably different. Kudos.
Brilliant🎉
Thanks man, easy as.
He is unable to remove the hood, so he cut's it. DON'T DO THAT!. There are a couple of videos on that show how to remove the hood using a screwdriver - I've done it and it works fine!
The turbos are prone to failure,creating a possibility of shrapnel going through the engine
My corsa opel 1.3 cdti does have the same hp pump The car won t start or very hard start when engine us warm after running about one houre I have to wait at least 15 min ti allow engine to cool down then it starts But there is no problem on cold start I was told it could be the faulty hp pump What do you think Anyway thanks for the vudeo
That is one beautiful English Horn stop!
Hello . I lost a fuse, in the video 2:24 ☹☹☹. Do you know where I can find such fuse ??? Thanks a lot .
Great Video.
Really hoping for a companion video showing reassembly. One anomaly here is rhat early on, you shifted against the spring several clicks before beginning disassembly. The problem this caussed must have been edited out.
This video is great. I'll be using it soon to investigate an oil leak and change the belt if need be. Have you ever found oil leaking from around the timing cover or under it? It could be at the base of the sump seal, but it's on that side. Will be diving in soon to see.
great viedo, didnt get the play out interely but for an overconfident, brave but stupid man who takes something apart witheout memorizing the order a real gem
😢
Yep - big lessons learnt, change the injector seals at 100,000 regardless. .Don't wait for it. Any diesel car...
Gracias mi has ayudado mucho. Eres un crack
Thank you
Mazda makes excellent engines! i own a Mazdaspeed6 And Mazda6 SkyActive D! i change oil every 4000 km and i never had a single issue with them! best cars ever!
Incidentally this was Dr Longhurst’s final organ solo on the broadcast in late 2007 just before he formally retired. I grew up watching him and miss his elegant demeanor, controlled movement at the console and excellent sense of taste in registration. He never felt the need to end every loud solo piece on full organ with octave couplers… like perhaps others did and do now. You’ll note that the producers, by some miracle managed to not cut away to stock nature footage during the solo as they do every time these days.
Thank you for making this video
Turn the dang music off if you’re going to try to explain something 🤦♂️
hello thanks in advance, i have the same mazda and has problems with the gas! it doesn't stay constant it plays up and down but only when accelerating, that means accelerating locks the gas level and there is no error message, do you think it has something to do with the toothed belt?
Thanks man
Mazda engine's? Update yourself!! PSA?😉
Salam 2.2 611muhərikdi isti mator da xoda getmir su 80 yuxarı olanda
can you help me, hogy can i disassebly the break lever unit? 0:16
Do you have to bench the pump after seal replacement? Or you just assemble it and mount it to the car? Great video and good explanation. Cheers
problema este strangerea isuficienta a injectoarelor
What group set is this? Veloce?
Did you have misfire on one cylinder and loud metal sound until engine warm ? And sometimes rpm will go bellow 750 and get back right away ? Thanks!
Do i Need to depressurise the common rail or anything before removal?
** Tip 1 ** - When you take the out the pump retaining screws, hold a magnet stick close by to catch the screws rather than drop them into the bowels of the engine bay. ** Tip 2 ** - A one size too small Torx bit will often appear to fit but will slip and chew the crew head. ALWAYS try the next size up as very likely to fit snugly and can't slip.
Capping the open pipes is VERY important. You could also brush loose dirt away with a shop vac to get rid of the bulk crud. Then get the whole pump into a wash tank to remove 95% of the loose crud that will be into every gap. It won't be the whole job but makes the later deep cleaning much easier.
Great video. Thanks
This engine has died from skipped oil changes. You changed the oil every 10,000 miles (16,100km). The Mazda specification is every 10,000km or 6 months whichever comes first. Modern engines have small oil passages plus when the oil filter fills it goes on bypass so the oil is not filtered and it chews out the bearings. Car manufacturers have pushed oil changes out a long way, too far in my opinion. Yes this engine has a soot problem and leaking injectors which necessitates more frequent oil changes if anything. In such a situation going from a recommended 10,000km to 16,100km is certain death for an engine
I replaced the square o ring seal for the piston in my caliper and ever since I have brake fluid seeping out of MC reservoir cap...could the new seal be not 100% compatible or would I have introduced air in the brake lines.
You are a lifesaver!! I had one which was disassembled and then illness caused a delay before I could put it back together and by then I forgot all the different steps! I wasn't even as tore down into it as you are at the 8 minute mark. And the way that you stop rotate and reshow parts per step before you actually take the next piece off it's just wonderful and how ALL videos of this type should be made by everyone!! KUDOS now I just have to find a way to download your video reverse it so I can play it backwards to put everything back together LOL
Glad you found it useful. That was a megga tricky one to take apart - probably did it 5 times before making a video which showed everything in it;s right place and the right way round :)
@@alanmann I had a second one come in this week disassembled, LOL I wish these people would bring them in complete. But at least now it's ingrained in my head, LOL Thanks again!!!
Si
Very informative video. On my left pedal when I tried to untighten what you call the nylon sleeve (0:55 sec) it snap right at the pedal. Thus, unable to remove the main axle from the pedal body. Any idea on how to salvage my pedal ?
Hope you found a way. Not sure what to suggest other than lots of WD40 and maybe an ultrasound bath to loosen the rubbish that must have built up inside, oh, and patience...
@@alanmann Just good for garbage :(
one more: would it be possible to change big end bearings without remove engine? after sump is removed how hard to get the strengthening plate ( or whatever it is) off to get access to crankshaft?
that oil pick up really is cactus or toast, perhaps oil pan should be removed every so often to check condition of pickup, it might be an indicator for whats going on, maybe not a bad way to go.
seafoam in the oil just before oil change might help, the dipstick has the extra high mark, what causes the oil to expand? fuel in the oil?
Opel corsa/combo 1,3 cdti engine?
I've had several Mazda petrol models and never had any issues at all. Super reliable cars. Wouldn't touch a diesel model though.
How did toi get tour turbo sounds like that? What did u do?
300.000KMs on your cars clock and Mazda doesn't make good engines? I hope my Mazda 3 will arrive at your miles!!! 🙂