I have a bunch of planters that I printed as 2mm thick shells, full weather exposure, soil, moisture, the works for 5 years. Before that, they were indoors, in a window for 2 years. They basically look like new.
@DarthCrumbieКүн бұрын
29:11 you show the back of the filament dryer and the bowden tube fitting you installed in it. Is that something you made? Or purchased? Im in the process of modding my Sunlu S1+ and need a fitting like that.
@DarthCrumbieКүн бұрын
Nevermind.. if I just continue watching for a few more seconds, I get my answer...
@ChilledTheMageКүн бұрын
I like the idea of the labels in the middle of the holder but just an acrylic pen or highlighter on the labels if you make them embossed. No need to waste so much time on a multi-colour print. I'd also love to see you make it either hollow or sink down in the middle section (maybe a sliding container out the back?) to reduce the amount of filament used as that thing is a monster eating all your filament lol.
@WestEast3259585Күн бұрын
when the headlines say that all PLA is compostable and biodegradable, but only the fine print says that only under certain conditions. conditions that don't usually occur in your backyard. greenwashing? of course, there are many different variants of PLA (different chain lengths and polymer architectures, isomers, blends) and they can have very different properties, some can degrade quite quickly even without the help of an industrial composter. but what about 3d printing filaments? the better the biodegradability of PLA, the worse its mechanical properties, and I want the best mechanical properties possible! I also don't want my 3d prints to fall apart after some time, and filament manufacturer wants me to ba happy so i don't expect 3d printing filaments to be particularly biodegradable
@ThomasKing0517Күн бұрын
I got two of these for slow relible printing on a large bed, But have found it a a constant battle to keep leveled. Thank you for the info!
@TheRealPlatoКүн бұрын
Great data points. Craziest part is that with years of generator use you never forgot to remove that cap and melted it. I've had a compliant/single-piece clothespin in direct sun for about a year now that still flexes fine. R3D clear PLA
@ZVIXVYКүн бұрын
good find on that wasps nest
@Passco666Күн бұрын
I use a spray for all partz which are used outside 😊
@BigToro2 күн бұрын
Not exactly an outside print but printed a replacement sunvisor clip for my car out of PLA as i have gray only in PLA (which is the color of the original part i needed to replace), it stretched on a hot day due to the heat in the car, made another one and it did the same almost immeaditely, i'm printing the same part out of clear PETG as i'm writing this comment, hoping it will last longer than the previous parts did. What i learned is that PLA will not last long if it is under load in a warm environment.
@andyshap2 күн бұрын
Most of my prints are functional prints. My rule of thumb is: if it mostly works, leave it the way it is and use it for a while. Then I can tally up changes that I want to make in a week or two.
@ChilledTheMage2 күн бұрын
PLA definitely works outside. I have a bunch of garden decor, a mount for my doorbell, and some caps for metal conduits. It gets around 40c/-40c throughout the year where I live. I will say though the once place it has failed me is in my car, I made sunglass holders and due to the glasses hanging down from a clip, over time the print warps like your tomato holder. I've tried using PETG for it but it was the same issue. I believe ABS or ASA will work but I haven't tried them yet.
@Kremit_Mr_VLC2 күн бұрын
Its now July are the christmas lighst still up?
@FunctionalPrintFriday2 күн бұрын
yes.
@georgespeake50892 күн бұрын
I have this mill and am still learning. Thanks.
@johanholmberg15612 күн бұрын
How do you handle the digital readout from the quill in combination with the z axis for the dro?
@ThomasRager2 күн бұрын
@3:17 Using a lighter color would help. Why would you print something in black if you know it will lay in the sun? For such things, you use white.
@scr50082 күн бұрын
Looks like a Kubota BX hiding in the back of that barn, any print projects you've got for that?
@ppekala2 күн бұрын
Definitely label, intresting print. Also you can do with labels and without as an option
@peterricci1773 күн бұрын
Great video. I'd be interested to see when this switches to battery from grid if the neptune gives you the power loss alert or contines to print.
@Nauuris13 күн бұрын
the 100% IS THE FUKING SPEED U DUMASS UNCLE
@incubatork3 күн бұрын
Like you I started with the Anet A8 when they first came out, did all the normal upgrade safety mods including TMC drivers and built an enclosure to make it quieter and also Octoprint so I could keep an eye on things with the door closed. I then sort of lost interest as I bought a metal lathe which led to a metal working milling machine so I could now make a lot of parts from steel or aluminium. As a lot of things don't need to be made from metal I started looking back at my A8 again but with the filament now available the A8 falls a bit short. As I write this I have one eye on the window waiting for DHL to deliver my new printer, the Bambu Lab X1S with AMS. Hopefully I will be able to use it to make some useful prints( if I remember how) like you I never print useless plastic toys other than the odd benchy when I first got the A8 to test my mods.
@oktaymercan3 күн бұрын
What is the current status, have the mentioned issues been resolved? I am new to this hobby and plan to get started. I'm considering between the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus, but I will most likely choose the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max because of its larger print area. However, I wanted to ask first. Additionally, can it handle composite filaments, such as carbon fiber blends, at 300 degrees Celsius?
@deltajohnny3 күн бұрын
Awesome little improvements! Thanks! 👏👏😁😁
@BobCollins423 күн бұрын
I use 1/4" hex drive bits instead of allen wrenches or T handle types. Much more versatile drive options. Most often, I use a screwdriver handle type bit driver. Sometimes I use a 1/4" square socket adapter and use my socket wrench tools. I have even used my battery power driver tool.
@ace258053 күн бұрын
I was loving the printer (4 Plus) until today. Now I can't get anything to print. I did about 100 perfect prints out of the box just making sure everything was tight but today the nozzle just hits every print about 10 layers into it causing it to fail. I verified the Z offset and tried multiple files and different filaments and every setting I could think of in Cura to no avail. I just updated the firmware to the latest and doing a 30 minute heatup on the bed before I do a new level. I have no idea why it worked perfect for so many prints and now just fails every time now. I will try some of your fixes in this video and hope something changes for the positive. If nothing changes I will try replacing the nozzle. Thanks for the great video!
@whatsup3d3 күн бұрын
Ugh, YT deleted my comment, probably becasue I linked out to a model - if you go to Makerworld and search for "Wall Control for Klein Tools Hex Kit Set" you'll find the holder I made it's a CC license so it can be remixed. I did add labels becasue I have them fairly high on the wall and see the numbers on the top if not easy.
@calank9233 күн бұрын
7 months later it’s $339.99. The A1 is an absolutely great printer
@VitalieCartera4 күн бұрын
One could add an integrated handle at the back, you know, like a cave for the hand to grab when moving to the workbench or elsewhere.
@nickrudd25684 күн бұрын
I just brought the Bambu A1 printer, didnt need the AMS so got it for £287 plus £8 postage. I cant wait for it to arrive. Currently have two broken Ender 5 Plus's and a Kingroon KP3S with all the mickey mouse stuff swapped for the real things to make it a good printer and a Over long bedslinger build thats on pause. But modifying to make good is a pain, I brought this A1 to be the Happy donkey plodding along without need to keep dangling carrots to convince it to do what its there to do. Press print, Come back later to a finished item.
@NelsonBlvd4 күн бұрын
if someone ever asks you " why get a 3d printer?" show them this video. are there other solutions? maybe but this is amazing, and cost less than a dollar most times. Great video showing the real usefulness of PLA
@-SeanyBoy-4 күн бұрын
yes label then use a second color like white for visibility of the #'s.
@Goosefang4 күн бұрын
Definitely interested in this design. Also casting my vote for labeling and seconding the comment about making it a 3 piece.
@ares3954 күн бұрын
If that's the worst quality you've ever had then oh buy you must be spoiled... That print is horrid but for all other reasons but the quality.
@shannonrollins24954 күн бұрын
I get placing the metric wrenches with the hex ends facing outward like the SAE on the other side, but the metric sizes on the handles being upside down hurts my OCD. I would label the holes, just because you already know its likely you will use multiples at times and it will be easier to put them back. I agree with the previous comment that a chamfered hole is easier to line up the wrenches than using a radius since the radius is tangent to the top where it meets the surface. Use whatever CAD you prefer, however I think you would be able to edit, iterate and manipulate your models easier and faster with a parametric modeling software, and like mentioned before, Onshape is free and very easy to learn, especially for someone who already has experience making 3D models.
@incubatork4 күн бұрын
As is, only putting in a big handle in the middle allows you to easily take the whole thing out and move it to where your working
@hitmennn694 күн бұрын
I’d consider printing an ideation where one set goes in ascending order and the other descending to maybe optimize space even further
@garybayard23054 күн бұрын
I think maybe a handle down the middle with the sizes on the handle so that you can pick it up and put it down somewhere and the sizes aren’t obscured
@RestNPizza4 күн бұрын
Your definition of worst print quality is definitely different than my definition 😂. Great job as always!
@tehhamstah4 күн бұрын
Maybe add a handle to it. It already looks like a portable kit, a handle would make that even more convenient. And as others have said, I left grid infill behind a long time ago. My current favourite is the Cross Hatch at 12% in Bambu Slicer, but otherwise Gyroid or 3D Honeycomb (the new version in the latest Orca and Bambu slicers) are both great options.
@PLr1c3r4 күн бұрын
It would save a lot of the footprint area if you ran both in opposing direction from largest to smallest. ie smallest on top metric - smallest on bottom imperial.
@fins51504 күн бұрын
label on the outside walls?
@richardgardiner2424 күн бұрын
I think a chamfer instead of the curved funnel might be better for easy insertion of the wrench.
@anthonymedford53804 күн бұрын
Great job you should put labels on it will complete the look, also how about magnets on the bottom side in case you that the whole thing out you won't have to worry about it falling over you can just put it on a metal surface, just a thought. 👍
@yooper4235 күн бұрын
For easier portability, maybe a handle in the middle that sticks up above the wrenches.
@chrisk37395 күн бұрын
Seems much bulkier than necessary. I’d consider making the face nearer to vertical and angling the bores downward relative to it to maintain the desired orientation. Having a single planar face would also allow you print it upside down. This would make the labels more efficient to print. You could then also model it as a shell that’s open on the bottom with internal webbing to support the bore tubes. This could make for some significant savings on filament and print time. Finally adding some magnets to base would provide greater stability without requiring 3/4kg of filament.
@PolarisPilot4 күн бұрын
This! A single planer face and the bore holes angled. I'd also invert the metric sizes (small on top and big on bottom) and rotate them to have the size read right way up.
@ProjectAnubisUSA5 күн бұрын
If you’re worried about location due to having multiple T handles out and don’t want a large gap in the center… I recommend start with the biggest one and the top open hole and work your way down the openings; or smallest available and work your way up, problem solved. As for modeling I use solidworks and it’s the best! lol only because that’s what I started with at school and work. I’d recommend fusion 360 if you’re looking for a free option, powerful and scalable for the future. I’ve used fusion and it’s a good software if you’re not married to one yet and have the willingness to learn. This design hurt my soul seeing the unnecessary features added to fill in the gap, it reminds me of my beginning solidworks surfacing skills 😂. Hey, practice makes perfect and approach is key to a design. I’d personally start with what I know which is my constraints. It could be 2D or 3D, but I’d sketch the exact toolbox opening the sketch the overall T handle(s). Then I’d copy and paste making dimensional adjustments to each; you could maybe scale the T handles once you make one to get you in the ballpark with spacing. It might seem like a lot of work upfront, but you will have less print time and a faster result that is perfect and future proof if a toolbox changes (other projects might appreciate use this reasoning more). You could also cut print time by cutting out the center section / area(s), since it’s not vital to the design when doing these rapid prototype experiments, if you’re not interested in modeling more parts. Overall, it’s a potential functional upgrade that is worth doing over being content with what you’re given with your purchase. I’ll have to do the same with my set of Klein’s, once I figure out my wants for the design.
@joebeecher39195 күн бұрын
inset text
@davidforbes4945 күн бұрын
100% put labels you mitwant to put some wight in the base like sand nad some way to blow out the hole and last mangnet under them to keep them in place
@rjay16745 күн бұрын
Definitely labels. As far as that empty space in the front, I'd put regular 90 degree hex wrenches in there. Make a separate block and Gloop it. I have these exact same sets and I hate the rack they came in. I've already decided to print this regardless of what you end up with. Thanks for sharing.
@63huggybear5 күн бұрын
I wouldn’t label them.
@mikebroom18665 күн бұрын
I have the same problem / holder with the Allen brand T-handles I have for the lathe too.
Пікірлер
I have a bunch of planters that I printed as 2mm thick shells, full weather exposure, soil, moisture, the works for 5 years. Before that, they were indoors, in a window for 2 years. They basically look like new.
29:11 you show the back of the filament dryer and the bowden tube fitting you installed in it. Is that something you made? Or purchased? Im in the process of modding my Sunlu S1+ and need a fitting like that.
Nevermind.. if I just continue watching for a few more seconds, I get my answer...
I like the idea of the labels in the middle of the holder but just an acrylic pen or highlighter on the labels if you make them embossed. No need to waste so much time on a multi-colour print. I'd also love to see you make it either hollow or sink down in the middle section (maybe a sliding container out the back?) to reduce the amount of filament used as that thing is a monster eating all your filament lol.
when the headlines say that all PLA is compostable and biodegradable, but only the fine print says that only under certain conditions. conditions that don't usually occur in your backyard. greenwashing? of course, there are many different variants of PLA (different chain lengths and polymer architectures, isomers, blends) and they can have very different properties, some can degrade quite quickly even without the help of an industrial composter. but what about 3d printing filaments? the better the biodegradability of PLA, the worse its mechanical properties, and I want the best mechanical properties possible! I also don't want my 3d prints to fall apart after some time, and filament manufacturer wants me to ba happy so i don't expect 3d printing filaments to be particularly biodegradable
I got two of these for slow relible printing on a large bed, But have found it a a constant battle to keep leveled. Thank you for the info!
Great data points. Craziest part is that with years of generator use you never forgot to remove that cap and melted it. I've had a compliant/single-piece clothespin in direct sun for about a year now that still flexes fine. R3D clear PLA
good find on that wasps nest
I use a spray for all partz which are used outside 😊
Not exactly an outside print but printed a replacement sunvisor clip for my car out of PLA as i have gray only in PLA (which is the color of the original part i needed to replace), it stretched on a hot day due to the heat in the car, made another one and it did the same almost immeaditely, i'm printing the same part out of clear PETG as i'm writing this comment, hoping it will last longer than the previous parts did. What i learned is that PLA will not last long if it is under load in a warm environment.
Most of my prints are functional prints. My rule of thumb is: if it mostly works, leave it the way it is and use it for a while. Then I can tally up changes that I want to make in a week or two.
PLA definitely works outside. I have a bunch of garden decor, a mount for my doorbell, and some caps for metal conduits. It gets around 40c/-40c throughout the year where I live. I will say though the once place it has failed me is in my car, I made sunglass holders and due to the glasses hanging down from a clip, over time the print warps like your tomato holder. I've tried using PETG for it but it was the same issue. I believe ABS or ASA will work but I haven't tried them yet.
Its now July are the christmas lighst still up?
yes.
I have this mill and am still learning. Thanks.
How do you handle the digital readout from the quill in combination with the z axis for the dro?
@3:17 Using a lighter color would help. Why would you print something in black if you know it will lay in the sun? For such things, you use white.
Looks like a Kubota BX hiding in the back of that barn, any print projects you've got for that?
Definitely label, intresting print. Also you can do with labels and without as an option
Great video. I'd be interested to see when this switches to battery from grid if the neptune gives you the power loss alert or contines to print.
the 100% IS THE FUKING SPEED U DUMASS UNCLE
Like you I started with the Anet A8 when they first came out, did all the normal upgrade safety mods including TMC drivers and built an enclosure to make it quieter and also Octoprint so I could keep an eye on things with the door closed. I then sort of lost interest as I bought a metal lathe which led to a metal working milling machine so I could now make a lot of parts from steel or aluminium. As a lot of things don't need to be made from metal I started looking back at my A8 again but with the filament now available the A8 falls a bit short. As I write this I have one eye on the window waiting for DHL to deliver my new printer, the Bambu Lab X1S with AMS. Hopefully I will be able to use it to make some useful prints( if I remember how) like you I never print useless plastic toys other than the odd benchy when I first got the A8 to test my mods.
What is the current status, have the mentioned issues been resolved? I am new to this hobby and plan to get started. I'm considering between the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus, but I will most likely choose the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max because of its larger print area. However, I wanted to ask first. Additionally, can it handle composite filaments, such as carbon fiber blends, at 300 degrees Celsius?
Awesome little improvements! Thanks! 👏👏😁😁
I use 1/4" hex drive bits instead of allen wrenches or T handle types. Much more versatile drive options. Most often, I use a screwdriver handle type bit driver. Sometimes I use a 1/4" square socket adapter and use my socket wrench tools. I have even used my battery power driver tool.
I was loving the printer (4 Plus) until today. Now I can't get anything to print. I did about 100 perfect prints out of the box just making sure everything was tight but today the nozzle just hits every print about 10 layers into it causing it to fail. I verified the Z offset and tried multiple files and different filaments and every setting I could think of in Cura to no avail. I just updated the firmware to the latest and doing a 30 minute heatup on the bed before I do a new level. I have no idea why it worked perfect for so many prints and now just fails every time now. I will try some of your fixes in this video and hope something changes for the positive. If nothing changes I will try replacing the nozzle. Thanks for the great video!
Ugh, YT deleted my comment, probably becasue I linked out to a model - if you go to Makerworld and search for "Wall Control for Klein Tools Hex Kit Set" you'll find the holder I made it's a CC license so it can be remixed. I did add labels becasue I have them fairly high on the wall and see the numbers on the top if not easy.
7 months later it’s $339.99. The A1 is an absolutely great printer
One could add an integrated handle at the back, you know, like a cave for the hand to grab when moving to the workbench or elsewhere.
I just brought the Bambu A1 printer, didnt need the AMS so got it for £287 plus £8 postage. I cant wait for it to arrive. Currently have two broken Ender 5 Plus's and a Kingroon KP3S with all the mickey mouse stuff swapped for the real things to make it a good printer and a Over long bedslinger build thats on pause. But modifying to make good is a pain, I brought this A1 to be the Happy donkey plodding along without need to keep dangling carrots to convince it to do what its there to do. Press print, Come back later to a finished item.
if someone ever asks you " why get a 3d printer?" show them this video. are there other solutions? maybe but this is amazing, and cost less than a dollar most times. Great video showing the real usefulness of PLA
yes label then use a second color like white for visibility of the #'s.
Definitely interested in this design. Also casting my vote for labeling and seconding the comment about making it a 3 piece.
If that's the worst quality you've ever had then oh buy you must be spoiled... That print is horrid but for all other reasons but the quality.
I get placing the metric wrenches with the hex ends facing outward like the SAE on the other side, but the metric sizes on the handles being upside down hurts my OCD. I would label the holes, just because you already know its likely you will use multiples at times and it will be easier to put them back. I agree with the previous comment that a chamfered hole is easier to line up the wrenches than using a radius since the radius is tangent to the top where it meets the surface. Use whatever CAD you prefer, however I think you would be able to edit, iterate and manipulate your models easier and faster with a parametric modeling software, and like mentioned before, Onshape is free and very easy to learn, especially for someone who already has experience making 3D models.
As is, only putting in a big handle in the middle allows you to easily take the whole thing out and move it to where your working
I’d consider printing an ideation where one set goes in ascending order and the other descending to maybe optimize space even further
I think maybe a handle down the middle with the sizes on the handle so that you can pick it up and put it down somewhere and the sizes aren’t obscured
Your definition of worst print quality is definitely different than my definition 😂. Great job as always!
Maybe add a handle to it. It already looks like a portable kit, a handle would make that even more convenient. And as others have said, I left grid infill behind a long time ago. My current favourite is the Cross Hatch at 12% in Bambu Slicer, but otherwise Gyroid or 3D Honeycomb (the new version in the latest Orca and Bambu slicers) are both great options.
It would save a lot of the footprint area if you ran both in opposing direction from largest to smallest. ie smallest on top metric - smallest on bottom imperial.
label on the outside walls?
I think a chamfer instead of the curved funnel might be better for easy insertion of the wrench.
Great job you should put labels on it will complete the look, also how about magnets on the bottom side in case you that the whole thing out you won't have to worry about it falling over you can just put it on a metal surface, just a thought. 👍
For easier portability, maybe a handle in the middle that sticks up above the wrenches.
Seems much bulkier than necessary. I’d consider making the face nearer to vertical and angling the bores downward relative to it to maintain the desired orientation. Having a single planar face would also allow you print it upside down. This would make the labels more efficient to print. You could then also model it as a shell that’s open on the bottom with internal webbing to support the bore tubes. This could make for some significant savings on filament and print time. Finally adding some magnets to base would provide greater stability without requiring 3/4kg of filament.
This! A single planer face and the bore holes angled. I'd also invert the metric sizes (small on top and big on bottom) and rotate them to have the size read right way up.
If you’re worried about location due to having multiple T handles out and don’t want a large gap in the center… I recommend start with the biggest one and the top open hole and work your way down the openings; or smallest available and work your way up, problem solved. As for modeling I use solidworks and it’s the best! lol only because that’s what I started with at school and work. I’d recommend fusion 360 if you’re looking for a free option, powerful and scalable for the future. I’ve used fusion and it’s a good software if you’re not married to one yet and have the willingness to learn. This design hurt my soul seeing the unnecessary features added to fill in the gap, it reminds me of my beginning solidworks surfacing skills 😂. Hey, practice makes perfect and approach is key to a design. I’d personally start with what I know which is my constraints. It could be 2D or 3D, but I’d sketch the exact toolbox opening the sketch the overall T handle(s). Then I’d copy and paste making dimensional adjustments to each; you could maybe scale the T handles once you make one to get you in the ballpark with spacing. It might seem like a lot of work upfront, but you will have less print time and a faster result that is perfect and future proof if a toolbox changes (other projects might appreciate use this reasoning more). You could also cut print time by cutting out the center section / area(s), since it’s not vital to the design when doing these rapid prototype experiments, if you’re not interested in modeling more parts. Overall, it’s a potential functional upgrade that is worth doing over being content with what you’re given with your purchase. I’ll have to do the same with my set of Klein’s, once I figure out my wants for the design.
inset text
100% put labels you mitwant to put some wight in the base like sand nad some way to blow out the hole and last mangnet under them to keep them in place
Definitely labels. As far as that empty space in the front, I'd put regular 90 degree hex wrenches in there. Make a separate block and Gloop it. I have these exact same sets and I hate the rack they came in. I've already decided to print this regardless of what you end up with. Thanks for sharing.
I wouldn’t label them.
I have the same problem / holder with the Allen brand T-handles I have for the lathe too.