Two drivetrain & suspension enthusiasts who didn't really need another excuse to buy even more vehicles or spend more time turning a wrench.
This channel is homage to our roots, as kids resuscitating the family hand-me-down while dreaming of rides that seemed impossible to afford. Now that we can afford them, we still aren't happy until we've enhanced the performance through mods, upgrades, & customization.
Whether you've got a supercar tucked away in the garage or only the one daily driver we believe you should be able to enjoy your driving experience. After years of working in the automotive industry for others and ourselves, we are finally able to take some time off behind the scenes to bring you the real world results of drivetrain and chassis mods.
Experienced Grease Monkey? Avid gearhead? Car Enthusiast? Dreamers? We're glad to have you join us through our latest project car's trials and triumphs.
Enjoying our automotive journey? Let's talk shop sometime!
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I’ve seen many 8.8 videos say that you must use the crush washer for preload of the pinion. Why do you believe that isn’t need until final assembly?
Very thorough thank you
Great video but please stop with the terrible sound track. We came to learn about the rear end and the dumb music was a huge distraction.
I have a question got a 2011 cvpi looking to swap gears it got a 327 it's my daily driver I do alot of city and interstate driving whats a good gear to go with 373,390 I know 410s is too high for interstate
Great stuff on install but you didn't address why a add a leaf over a block. Looking at doing a 6 inch lift on my 2007 Silverado 1500. I still dont get if a block should be used with add a leaf or not. I thought and the video made it sound like if you add the one leaf addition you dont use the block. The video made it sound like one or the other, but at 6:56 you can see the "add a leaf" sitting on a block. Right after that at 7:04 we see just the "add a leaf" sitting on the axle with no block. So why the discrepancy of block/no block with add a leaf and how does a single leaf makeup for several inches of lift a block would provide. Totally lost on all these points.
you don't need longer U bolts when there is 3" of them past the nut
The only thing that went wrong here is that ford.
Hi, i got a mag Crwon wherl set, only on pinion are markings of 0,0 and a second 0,22. what measure do i have to check?
The zeros may be a reference to adjustment from the manufacturers nominal pinion depth. There are articles and charts to use for pinion shimming adjustment based off of the old and new gear sets, but the most basic principal is that a zero marked gear, should use the same pinion shim when replacing a zero marked gear. There can also be markings for recommended backlash and batch numbers used when manufacturing and packaging gearsets (to make sure same batch ring gears and pinion gears are matched up and boxed together.
Really well done guys, thanks. i thought my pattern was ok but now i know the pinion depth is wrong, you saved me a lot of frustration.
Real good, let us know how it works out!
@@rearwheelperformance got the pinion depth set, pattern is centered up/down but only a small contact patch on toe drive side and heel coast side.
@@halleffect1 Sorry missed this. You can adjust backlash within spec to try to move it. Sounds like you were at min backlash spec and likely shimming for a bit more backlash may have helped. Tell us how it all ended up!
@@rearwheelperformance thanks for that. backlash is at 0.010. I thinned out the paint with gear oil and got a better pattern, contact along most of the gear, not just the toe/heel. so it was right all along but i couldn't see it. confirmed it was fixed with test drive and no more howling.
@@halleffect1 Glad to hear!
We have to get an alignment done after this, right?
If you are working on rear lift components it is usually not necessary, but it can't do any harm to have it checked. For front components any modifications or changes, it is recommended to have an alignment.
Great video! Thank you! music gets pretty monotonous
Nice, thanks! We only had the choice of polarizing monotonous random sounds and dead silence, welcome to the KZread.
Awesome...nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
why do people say it is bad to leveling kits? I have a truck and every shop is trying to sell me a suspension set which cost $1600 and I don't ride off road... mine is just a 4x2. so should I just do a leveling kit>?
Leveling kits and spacer kits biggest drawback is the reduction of suspension dropout travel. The control arms are set to a different ride height angles than they were engineered for, which can also effect ride and handling, even on the street. Depending on the make and model, upper and/or lower ball joint wear and failure can also be increased. A couple of inches usually is ok, but many 3"+ spacers can be brutal in the short and long run.
@@rearwheelperformance Thank you for you reply. I am thinking around 1.5" to 2" max spacers. not going to do anything more than 2".
I rebuilt my rear end a grassy field in a campground. This was my 2nd attempt at it. I used this video repeatedly for the important info to finally get a good pattern. I think I actually got it all correct this time. Thanks!
Wow, very good. We had planned on doing a ground level build axle assembly using as much common basic hand tools as possible, but circumstance has never given us the time to do something like that properly. Glad it helped, enjoy!
So i have spacer lift kit on my truck and i see the upper control arm is outta wack can i get a spindle and install it and that would fix the upper control arm being so outta wack right?
If the spacer is causing the issues, then yes, removing the lift spacers, repairing or replacing the control arms and installing a spindle lift should help.
@@rearwheelperformance but i can leave the strut spacer in and use one of yalls spindle and itll correct the angle on the ball joint in the uca?!
@@512juancho Sorry no, the suspension travel and geometry are the same at the connection to the control arms. Problems using a strut spacer lift with stock spindles will be the same or a bit worse on lifted spindles.
@@rearwheelperformance so my best option is either a upgraded aftermarket UCA or remove the strut spacer and use a lift spindle right?
@@512juancho Yes, both will likely solve your mechanical issues, but the spindle solution will also restore the ride and handling back to near stock feeling.
Like @joecurry7864, I've viewed a LOT of videos and your video is far superior to all of the others. Thanks for the content.
Thank you very much!
I would check the pattern after everything is torqued.. Seemed that was missing in the instructions.
good
What keeps the crush sleeve from crushing more when you torque the nut the finial time
Torque the pinion nut in increasingly smaller steps, checking frequently, when the bearing preload (rotational drag) is getting close to specifications. Stop adding additional pinion nut torque once the bearing preload (drag) is anywhere within the specification range.
First of all your not measuring torque ,your are measuring preload ,On a 12 bolt GM you need some where between 400 and 600 ftlbs to start crushing the collar , you have to 'creep' up to the desired preload ,which is measured in Inch-Lbs usually 10 to 15 in-lbs of preload . Ive built over 500 12 bolts and the only impact that seems powerful enough to crush the 12 bolt is the M-18 Milwaukee , the M-18 is the best battery powered impact to use ,don't waste you money on other name brands that I won't mention ,8.5 GM and 9 in and 8.8 Ford crush fairly easy ,12 bolt and corvette 65-79 are tough to crush , have recently run into some aftermarket crush collars that refuse to crush , stick with OEM or Rateck
Do you recommend rear shackles?
Good for retaining ride quality and usually the easiest option to install, but generally not the best option for handling in our opinion.
@@rearwheelperformance ok. Are spindles easy to install if I have a lift and tools and some car experience
@@Graham_A That's the perfect background for spindle work. Every suspension tech has their favorite mini-sledgehammer to break free the ball joint and tie rod tapers. Other than the hammer and technique doing that, the rest is just bolt on.
you guys rock
Yeah? Well, you know, that's just like uh, your opinion, man. 🎳 Thanks!
How Hard Is It To Rebuild A Ford F150 Differential? kzread.info/dash/bejne/qaxmm9yyks6bYc4.html
Assuming it is an 8.8, 9.765 or Super 8.8 rear, it is about the same installation procedures as most other common c-clip style axle assemblies from the last 50 or so years. Tools and experience are relative to the installers perception of level of difficulty.
Great video. Looking at adding a leaf for my 2013 Nissan Titan. If you add them in the back do you have to add anything in the front or change shocks out?
There is usually enough dropout travel to use the existing rear shocks, but adding a slightly longer shock rated for 1-2" of rear lift can be added if necessary.
I watched a 100 videos on JK D44 regearing and this is good and to the point video. Every single video always shows the perfect center placement (heel to toe) and it would be nice if someone would cover a good face pattern, but explain/show why the pattern moves the way they do from heel to toe and how to get it centered (is it possible or even needed? I read it don't matter). I just did my D44 with 4.88s and I had to do 6 different pinion depth set ups each with probably 3 backlash adj. My final back lash was .008" and my first pattern was dead center of the face, Heel to Toe, but the pattern was just too shallow as it was rolling off the top. My subsequent and final 6th pinion depth adjustments brought the pattern more center (Face & root) but it also made the drive pattern go towards the toe. The Coast pattern stayed more center of the face but toward the heel. It was my 3rd regear ever, and the other 2 have been good for years.. gotta start someplace.
One can reference a hundred different bit of advise and pattern guides, but more importantly, persistence and patience provides the best results (as you did). Good to hear, and enjoy!
Great tips!
Glad you like them!
How to compensate housing deflections with BGS setting in order to have a worth contact pattern ? Anybody has experience with this?
Can you elaborate on this? What is your experience with this issue?
thanks. Great tips. Bought one. Please make more videos. I would listen to that woman describe anything.
Thanks man; we're glad you found the video useful. Our team hopes to have the time to make more videos soon.
I have a wolseley 1500 or morris minor diff broken off a pinion gear tooth diff still working do I need to replace crown and pinion wheel as a set and what is the correct t pattern on the crown gear?
We can't understand the question, but feel free to call us and we can get a better idea of how to assist.
I added 2 leafs to each side if my nissan frontier and it is anazing hiw well it lifted and supirted the truck
Trucks and suvs from about the late 80s+ have had their rear spring rates and shock dampening increasingly reduced for the sake of passenger ride comfort. Raising the rear spring rate along with well matched shocks are a game changer in handling/performance.
Ading a leaf is way better option makes your truck more capable of supporting payload. Ideally is to add a big leaf not a shirt one. A leaf that is just bit shirter than the top leaf. You can also add arc to these leafs which might be good if you want more than 1 or 2 inch lift. 3 to 4 inch lift requires longer shocks and also ading more arc to all leafs
Very well said!
Great video guys
Real cool, thanks!
This is the best video I've seen, thank you.
Nice, not sure it is quite all that, but it's nice hearing from people if it helps, thanks!
Great Video! I have a 2023 toyota tacoma.Can I use a 3inch Block and a add a leaf so I can get bigger tires and better Towing for My Trailer?
You probably can, but it would not be at our recommendation.
Great video. Wish all other youtube content was so well done.
Well gosh, thanks! We wish we had more time in the real world to make more. Hopefully soon!
good day I have a 2013 ram 1500 2wd it currently has a 2.5 inch spacer it looks good but it feels bad and sounds metal metal on metal I would like to know if I buy two inch springs from rough country or the spindles that you say I no longer want to struggle and drive comfortably do you recommend me?
Very likely the suspension dropout travel has been reduced and is stopping at the upper control arm/ball joint area (and check that the ball joints are not loose with the suspension unloaded. In our opinion, lift spindles are almost always a better choice for ride and being quiet if it is in the budget.
Listening with a long screwdriver is how I check bearings on water pumps, alternators, listen to fuel pumps etc. Learned it from my grandfather. You would be amazed at what you can diagnose with an extra long screwdriver pressed to your head right in front of your ear. At the shop I worked in one of the techs was trying to diagnose an overheating issue. I listened to the water pump and told him the pump was getting ready to go out and it could be an intermittent cause. As I was the "new guy" he told me I was full of it. I told him out would be back within a month for a water pump. Sure enough it was. Another instance was the head mechanic telling me I left something loose in the rear end after a custom suspension install. This was after I asked if the car came in with the brake chatter I was hearing on a test drive. While the head mechanic was walking around grumbling about my "incompetence" and that it wasn't the brakes, I removed the wheel on the noisy corner, pulled the caliper and headed the dry slide pins and reassembled it. Noise gone, brakes good and suspension was tight like I knew it was. Problem solved. No apologies from the head mechanic though. I'm a Tech that informes the customer of other things noticed that will need to be replaced and what's immediately necessary and what isn't. Neither the shop owner or head mechanic would do that saying the customer wasn't paying to have those things checked and would never say anything. I let the customer decide what they can afford to have done. Sometimes they have the additional repairs done right then and sometimes they don't but at least I informed them of what to expect and approximate timeframes. I couldn't in good conscience let a customer leave without being informed. Needless to say I'm looking for work because of our differing opinions of what was the right thing to do.
Very good! Maybe it's time to take that next step...
Thank you for this video. It will be a big help on my GM 10 bolt!
Thank you for your input. Hope all goes well!
Really good video...
Thanks!
Great video this guy knows his work excellent
Thank you for the kind words of support!
I replaced the 2.73’s with 3.55s in a 2014 Mustang 3.7l. Gas mileage dropped off by about 12% but it’s allot easier and funner to drive on moutain widening roads.
Straightening the curves, flattening the hills. Someday the mountain might get 'em, but the law never will.
Is this video assuming you already have your pinion depth set correctly? Or do you set it after checking backlash/ paint?
Set it up initially as closely as possible using the previous/original pinion shim or a setup depth checking tool, then check the contact pattern to determine if it requires additional adjustment to make it good.
Thanks for the reply. I’ll be doing my first gear swap as soon as I get the parts I ordered. Great video btw. I’ll be checking it out a couple more times probably.
Real good, have fun. Call us if you need help on anything. 877-910-2244 @@dumpsterguy85
where can i buy the lift block for a 1947 Lincoln Continental front -need a couple inches of lift thanks
JC Whitney, back in the day :) But, if you are serious, you'll likely need to fabricate it or piece something together from other application kits.
I made a comment but it evaporated! So, I'll repeat it here. Since I don't have a lift and I'm in my late seventies, I decided that trying to pound the the pinion gear outer bearing races into their recesses was a no-go. I used the old pinion shaft with the old bearings (honed out for easy removal) as an installation tool. I found a couple of old used shop bearings to act as spacers (large enough to clear the shaft splines) and used my impact wrench to draw the races toward one another (do not try to use the u-joint yoke). Checking the races periodically for alignment, it worked like a champ with no issues at all.
We keep saying we're going to try to mock-up a race installer kit with pucks and a center screw for years, but as long as we can swing hammers without breaking bones, I guess we're stuck, lol. Since someone has mentioned it now, I think it's time to try it!
I have spent the last week viewing videos and reading about ring and pinion jobs. You guys ROCK! (now that’s coming from a 64 year old retired home builder) Clear, concise, easy to understand and a benefit to the community. Well done gentleman. 😊
We like this guy! Seriously though, we always feel like we're tripping over our words. Too many can be confusing, and too few can be too obscure. Have fun, and we hope to be retired home builders like you someday!
I'm doing a ARB install with new gears and new bearings. My backlash is perfect and I've almost got the pinion depth right where I want it. Its still a little deep. But still have a sharp line deep in the valleys. Smooth spinning and no noise.
Patterns should have a feathered edge all around the edges. A visibly hard edge line is where the pinion teeth will have the most pressure. If it were us, we'd probably back it off a couple of thousandths and recheck one last time.
@@rearwheelperformance So I've got my pinion depth right where I want it. But even opening the backlash to 9 "Yukon recommends 6-10" I cant completely get rid of that sharp line. Tt 9 the sides are nice and feathered but right in the center portion its still a sharp line. Not sure if I cant hit 10 right on the nose. I'm wondering if its just because its all new parts and they need to brake in?
@@baja5000 We need to see what the pattern looks like. If you got time, call the tech line next week, especially if you aren't completely satisfied with what it looks like - 877-910-2244
I got a 4inch block and 6 leaves on my rear. 10 leaves on the front. 04 f250😂
Rough life!
Excellent video
Thanks, and glad to hear!
How about rear shackles?
We don't use them in most cases, since it creates more leverage at the frame, and can allow for more side-to-side movement. It also takes about twice the added shackle length to get the amount of overall lift wanted. That is just our opinion, and most installations are fine with shackles also.
Can you run both a leveling kit and lift spindles
For many applications, yes. But, more lift can mean that there may be more modifications required to allow for brake line and sensor wire lengths and routing.
So extended brake lines should be fine?
@@nickdismute6214 Extend the brake lines and any other wires that it may have depending on the application. Turn the knuckles full left/right at dropout to make sure everything is routed freely and not overextending or rubbing on anything.
Great video I would bet most mechanics doing a job like this does not know or understand how bad they could screw up a customer's truck love how you guys explain how everything is related.
Thanks. Even so, we go back and watch these and think about things we want to add. Hope we can get back to making these soon!
Great info. Very helpful for my project in the coming weeks. Thanks !
Glad to hear, and thanks a lot!