Ultralight and Light Sport flying, all aspects from Maintenance, formation flying, sport flying, club competitions etc but most importantly, fun flying.
We fly from Aeroclub Alas del Mar at Santa Maria, located on the Peruvian coast 50km South of Lima.
When in Australia we fly from Temora Aerodrome in the state of NSW.
Пікірлер
Get rid of that glass fuel filter if you want to live. I had one on my VW and the threads stripped and it almost fell apart
I agree, that would be bad.
WAAAW GOOD I LOVE... THANKS.GOD BLESS YOU...
I'm glad you like it
👍 this is the spirit of home built aircraft - sharing the journey. SR
Many thanks!
That method for deburring inside holes is genius! Simple but very effective
I wish I could claim it as my own but I must have seen it somewhere.
ជំរាបសួរបងលោកតើជាដែកឬជាអ្វីយកធ្វើយន្តហោះ
Tahiti, this aeroplane is made from an aluminium skeleton,overextended with a heat shrinkable fabric material.
❤អរគុណច្រើន
ជំរាបសួរលោកតើស្លាប់យន្តហោះជាប្រភេទដែកអ្វី។តើតួយន្តហោះជាប្រភេទដែកអ្វី❤
ជំរាបសួរបងតើជាប្រភេទដែកអ្វីយកធ្វើយន្តហោះ។
Just go with it. Uhh you can remove the lumpy bits by using a gum eraser to get them off. That system is really easy.
Thanks for that. I think my foam brush was falling to bits. Once I changed that and mixed up some new Ekobond, no more lumpy bits.
beautiful flying!! 👏👌
Thanks Pedro, I was just having some fun.
Why not put the join at the trailing edge just asking
You need to have two joins, one at the leading edge, the other at the trailing edge. On a small component like an aileron for instance you could wrap the fabric all the way around and put the joins at the T.E. but it isn’t quite as easy as it sounds.
Eh. Ah. Ehm. Ahm. Ahm. Eh. This is so hard. Does he live in Ah Mahn?
I have to agree with you, it’s difficult to listen to. I’ll try to improve but don’t hold your breath.
Is be your 3rd Renegade build?
No, I didn't build the other two. I bought them already in flying condition.
great video 👏👏👏 thank you for the sharing and patience :)
Thanks for watching! Pedro, I’ll keep making them if you keep watching them
Loved it, thanks for taking us along, I'm not far from Temora myself so it was interesting looking at familiar country. Love to see more and would of happily jumped in that spare seat.
Thanks for the feedback, I can never be too sure if the audience likes my videos or not. I’ll keep making videos and assume that most people like them. If you find yourself near Temora look me up, maybe we can go for a fly.
beautiful stearman :) also quite beautiful Fisher :) 🔝🔝
They sure were. Derek has two Fishers, both are equally nice. He travels lots so he's definitely the person to listen to regarding all things biplane.
Is the Rotec mounted directly on center? I always thought that the engine had to be 3 degree off center due to the direction of prop turning/thrust???
To be honest, I really don't know for sure but it won't matter for what I'm trying to do with the cowls. Some designers choose to canter the engine centerline off a few degrees but Murphy chose to move the leading edge of the fin off to one side, depending on the rotation of the engine. I don't remember the exact measurement but it was something like 1/2". My RV6 has the fin on the centerline and the engine a few degrees off like you say but you wouldn't want both methods of correction on the same aeroplane.
Love your homemade wheel chocks!!! Is the front wheel widths the same for the 582 and the Rotec?? It looks like the Rotec Spirit wheel stance is wider than your older 582 Renegade 2.
That’s right, the wheel track is not the same. The 582 is 58” and the Rotec is 68”. The Rotec Renegade required much longer undercarriage legs and also much heavier. The extra length is required since the Rotec swings a much larger prop. Even with the longer undercarriage, the prop clearance is barely sufficient.
Paul can you check your microphone settings, they are extremely soft, thanks!
I'll do my best.
Are you referring to this particular video or one of the earlier ones? This particular one seems pretty good to me. I know I've had problems in the past.
I have noted it on a few of your videos, sounds like you are far away from the microphone.@@pauloconnor2813
What engine is in the renegade? Where is the smoke coming from?
It's a Rotax 912s 100hp. It doesn't perform a whole lot better than the 582, except in climb of course but actual cruise speed is only about 5kts or less better. Fuel consumption is about the same.
Sorry, I missed the part about the smoke….. there’s only one overboard vent and that’s from the lube oil tank. You can see the “g” meter in some parts of the video. As best as I can make out I was pulling 0g over the top of the loop. The oil in the tank would have made its way to the vent ( that exits near the muffler). Some of this oil would have contacted the hot exhaust and quickly turned to smoke. The remainder ok the oil went back and fully coated the underside of the fuselage.
That looked windy!!! What's the maximum wind you can fly the Chinook in? the Renegade Spirit?
Nah, not windy. It's mostly wind noise in the microphone. It's rarely windy by the coast in Peru. I think it's just too close to the equator. The red Renegade has a higher wing loading so it is less susceptible to strong wind than the cream one. The short answer is I don't know because I never explore that part of the envelope and since the aeroplane is not built for cruising you're highly unlikely to arrive at an airport a couple of hundred miles from home and have to deal with a strong crosswind for instance.
The Chinook is similar, it's wing loading is pretty low so it has all the same issues as the Renegade. Like you could see, light wing loading and strong thermals don't really mix. That particular flight we had a great time flying along the beach. The "rodeo" only started on the base leg, thankfully.
What exactly was wrong with this in the first place?
I confused the anti-chafe tape with the reinforcing tape. I put the reinforcing tape UNDER the fabric instead of ON TOP of the fabric so I’m going to redo all of the fabric once it arrives from Aircraft Spruce. I’ll do much better the second time around.
That’s an unfortunate step backwards… what is it that you are not happy about? Can you give more detail? One of my fuel tanks is leaking… I think it’s where the trailing edge is riveted to the tank. The fuel already destroyed the fabric and paint. Unfortunately the builder used a single pop rivet to attach the tube to the tank. It’s ether leaking through the center of the rivet or at the edge. I’m trying to figure out a good fix for it. Any suggestions?
Sure John, I simply stuffed up and confused the three different types of tapes used with fabric. This was purely out of ignorance, I have never worked with fabric in my life. The three tapes are: anti chafing tape used where the fabric might contact a piece of structure and eventually cut through over time. Next is reinforcing tape (I mistook this for anti chafing tape but that's totally not it's job. It's meant to go over the fabric and under the rivets (or rib stitching) in order to better distribute the load over the fabric. I put my reinforcing tape under the fabric so it wasn't reinforcing anything it was just acting as a very expensive anti chafe tape. Lastly, comes the finishing tape that basically fairs the rivets into the fabric. Of course, in the case of rib stitching this final, picked tape would protect the stitches. Now, to get back to your problem. From memory, that bow is supposed to be held to the rear spar/fuel tank with one rivet. It just takes one clumsy passenger to think it's a great place to use as a grab-handle. Having built my fuel tanks I'm surprised they don't all leak. The fits and gaps between the components making up the tank are horrible. There are a few things you could try, if you're sure the leak is coming from around the bow to rearspar area you could cut away a small piece of fabric to expose the area, drain the tank, clean the area with a solvent. Most solvents will damage the fabric but you said that your's is already damaged. The actual fuel tank sealant is called Proseal. It's a two part goo that can be used to coat the suspected leak. Once this Proseal goes off it should seal the leak. After that you can think about repairing the fabric so be neat and don't cut too much fabric away to expose the leak. BTW where do you live? Proseal is pretty much impervious to most fuels but it's not too happy with ethanol. Another option and I really not a fan of this is to drain the tank, remove the wing, it's really not as bad as it sounds, there's a liquid you can buy that comes in a 1lt or 1qt can called sloshing compound. You simply pour this material into the tank then rotate the wing every which way in order to coat the entire internal surface of the tank, then drain the remainder of the liquid out. Lastly you could cut a hand hole in the top of the tank near the leak, use the Proseal method then install a cover plate over the hand hole, with Proseal, of course. Good luck
It would be interesting to see the stripping and cleaning process of the old fabric. Its probably easier in your case since the fabric hasnt been secured for 30+ years like your 582 Renegade 2
Well this is your lucky day. I’ve videoed the process but I haven’t edited it yet, I’ll do that in the next couple of days. The fabric rivets were really easy to remove, the reinforcing tapes were really well attached to the ribs. Thanks again for watching. Are you thinking of building?
Good on you Paul. Sorry to burst your bubble but I’m watching all I can because I’m about to cover my Sopwith Camel, it’s on KZread , down in Victoria. Enjoying your build mate well done.
Thanks Scott, I'll take a look at your build. Glad you spoke up when you did, I would have just carried on doing it wrong right to the end. Good luck
Paul, would you mind giving me a measure of the outer width and height of your main wing rectangular spar? Do you know if all kits with the rectangular main spar are the same size? Its hard to tell from the video, but your main spar height looks bigger.
My spars are 1.5” x 3.5”. I don’t know if all renegade rectangular spars are the same dimensions, I can’t imagine Murphy making the spars different dimensions, other than length of course
Thanks. It looked bigger than 3.5" on the video.
I like those Rhino sawhorse legs. I wish they were available here in the U.S.
Most of mine are pretty good. Two units are just about useless, only 3 of the 4 legs will touch the ground at any time and it's not the wooden beam that's twisted, the leg sections are just poorly made. They do look good though.
There's a white Scotchbrite that's a bit less agressive than the red stuff. We used red Scotchbrite for paint and corrosion removal in the U.S. Navy (aviation). The white pads are available in the U.S. at supermarkets and home improvement stores for general household cleaning where some abrasion is required that won't scratch the underlying surface. I would start with white, then use red for really stubborn oxidation spots and to key for paint.
You're 100% correct. I thought about going down the path of mentioning other options but I rejected the idea. I usually say in my videos that they are not 'how-to' videos, they are simply how I do any particular job not necessarily how it should be done. I appreciate your observation though. Thanks for watching.
I like your hangar. Looks like a nice size. Thanks for the update. Happy Leap Year!!
I love the hangar too, it’s 19m X 18m. I try to do an update at the end of each month, there wasn’t much to update this month on the Renegade build. Hope you enjoy watching, it’s a bit like mining…… you have to move a lot of dirt to find a gem.
Looks good !!!
Thanks, there’s nothing real difficult but lots of processes to go through.
What type of fabric are you using? Do you intend to rib stitch as well? Or not necessary?
I think the fabric supplied in the kit is Ceconite but it doesn't really matter. Most fabrics these days are polyester fabric. It looks a bit like sailboat sail cloth but lighter. The really big difference is in the chemicals used on the fabric to anchor it to the airframe structure and to seal the weave. I'll address these topics in future videos. For now, I'll just say I'm using Stewart Systems on my coverings. It uses water as a "solvent" this is opposed to polyfibre solvents that include MEK, quite nasty to human health. On the subject of rib stitching, that's not called for on this particular kit. It calls for large head aluminum rivets to attach the fabric to the structure. I'll be addressing this in future videos as well.
Hey there do you have an email I can submit questions to?
Hi, you can ask whatever questions you have here on FB, if the answers to your questions get too long then I'll give you my email.
@pauloconnor2813 it's for my dad! He doesn't have FB and wanted an email to ask a question to. If not, I totally understand and will let him know
Ok, I can do that, you can use [email protected] Sorry to do that to you but most of my audience are over 65 and 100% are men. I'll be glad to answer your dad's questions as best I can.
Paul, can you talk about, in another video, a summary of all the CONSTRUCTION changes that you know of between your three differently powered Renegades? Also, can you talk about the PERFORMANCE differences between your 582, 912, and why you chose the Rotec? Also, what are your thoughts on a 503 in a Renegade? Underpowered? Thanks for doing all your videos. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge!! I think it'd also be very interesting to see how you are going about doing the fabric covering.
What you're asking here is a pretty big question. I didn't build the 582 Renegade or the 912s (100hp) so I can't comment too much about them except bits and pieces I've stumbled across along the way.the 582 aircraft is a RENEGADE II, it was designed around the lower HP 2-stroke Rotax engines and as far as I can tell from mine, it's pretty much perfect, we'll balanced, controls are well harmonized. It has round main spars in the wings and a load limit of +6g. The fuselage has a squareish shape when viewed from the front. It's only lacking some power with two people on board but one-up it's perfect. My 912s Renegade is a Renegade Spirit. It has large rectangular section wing main spars with a +10/-6g load limit. Since it has the big round radial looking engine cowel, the stringers the non-structual pieces that give the fuselage it's shape were moved out in order to give the fuselage a more rounded shape to match the cowl. I'll try to answer your other questions in time and I am planning to do a couple of fabric videos but I have to learn how to do it myself first! Thanks for your kind feedback.
There seems to be a 'melted' red rubber spot on that air filter. Is that 'form fitted' around an engine part?
You're right, the filter had to be cut away slightly where it passes by a protrusion on the carburetor ( might be the accelerator pump) anyway, the red stuff is red RTV hi-temp silastic. Filter fits the carb perfectly.
Can you explain how does the engine oil system work in order for you to fly upside down? Is that engine a 4 stroke? How does that engine maintain the oil in the sump upside down flying??
The simple answer is, this engine can't operate upside down or, more precisely can't operate at zero or negative g load. The first thing to notice is the carburetor. It's a simple 1940s technology device that meters fuel flow to the engine. Inside the carburetor is a float that maintains a correct level of fuel in the bowl of the carburetor but under negative g loads the float goes wide open, thus flooding the engine with raw fuel. This causes the engine to run really badly or maybe even to stop altogether! While all this is happening the engine oil is flung up to the top of the sump, away from the oil pickup tube. In order to address both of these shortfalls I tend to stay away from negative g maneuvers. Even in a barrel roll, the aircraft is pulling positive g the whole time, even during the inverted part of the maneuver. Aircraft you see at airshows flying inverted, first of all won't be using a standard carburetor, they will either be using a very sufisticated carburetor or, more likely a fuel injected engine, these engines don't rely on gravity to operate. The oil system is usually addressed by using an engine with a 'dry sump'. What this simply means is the oil is supplied from an external tank that us able to supply oil at all different attitudes of the aeroplane. A number of pumps located inside the engine gather this oil up and return it to the external oil tank i.e. the sump stays 'dry' Yes, my engine is 4-stroke. It has two, independent ignition systems, so the loss of one ignition system should not cause a total engine failure.
Thanks for that explanation Paul. A further question: Is it correct to assume that your Renegades with the 582, 912 and now Rotec are set up with basic carburetors? And the air manoeuvres you had performed were all positive g??
Is there only one spark plug per cylinder? I thought that plane engines had two of all ignition parts per cylinder for safety??
The engine has two sparkplugs per cylinder but to do a leak-down pressure test you only take one sparkplug out. I choose to take a lower sparkplug out since they are easier to access than the upper ones.
Paul, are you able to make a couple videos regarding my last questions under the comment section in your November Update video? Much appreciated if you have the time!
Thanks for taking us along. Never seen that before. What was the make again of those tow planes? That one with the 912 must just hop like crazy.
They're called Moyes Dragonfly. The two-stroke versions won't cruise all that fast, maybe >50kts the 582 machine maybe 65kts. They both seem well adapted to towing.
Awesome that you are making these videos Paul. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with those of us interested in aviation!!!
Glad you like them!
That is a great idea!!
Did the plans call for any extra 'beefing up' of the wings due to the fact you are putting the big rotec in it? Did you add any wing strengtheners on your own?
Not a great deal of beefing up but yes. There was some modifications. Larger spar caps was one of the few wing modifications required, the Renegade Spirit is rated to +10/-6g. The firewall has been moved aft by 6". My battery has been moved back even further than other aircraft. The undercarriage is much heavier construction than standard and much longer as well in order to accommodate the much longer propeller. Once I get the final figures regarding went and balance, there may well have to be a minimum pilot weight. There may well be a total restriction on aerobatic flight. I'll make that decision once I get the final figures. The engine mount has been constructed in order to move the engine as close as possible to the firewall, so close in fact that the carburetor protrudes into the front cockpit. Some people choose to move the aft cockpit a few inches further aft. I considered the option but decided to reject the idea. In my opinion this was a risk to the structure of the fuselage, maybe not significant but more than I was prepared to accept.
That would be unfortunate if it makes aerobatic restriction. After 1987 a tricycle version of the Renegade called the Murphy Elite made it possible to add floats and fit engines up to 180 HP. Upgrades were reinforced frame, cantilever tail plane, one piece elevator, all metal control surfaces, split configuration flaps and upgraded wing attachment points.
Did Murphy Air set the firewall shorter spec or did you have to figure it out? And if so, how do you go about figuring this out?
The actual chain of events went something like this: a builder in Israel build a Renegade with a Rotec engine. When it came time to register the aircraft the Israeli authorities insisted on seeing all the engineering behind the justification of installing such a heavy engine. This builder had all the required engineering completed to the Israeli government's satisfaction. The builder then handed over all this data/ evidence etc to Murphy who started selling kits to suit the Rotec engine. My aircraft is one of those kits.
The Rotec 7 & 9 cylinder both show a dry weight of 220 lbs. By shortening the firewall 6" and because the Rotec is narrow that must make it similar to the 503/582 positioning with a long nose.
Wonder if it would be possible to put a Yamaha Apex or Nytro in front of a Renegade? They are about 200 lbs also, but longer. A used Apex with low hours plus the Skytrax Gearbox would run $10,000 Canadian
Paul, how do you figure out this C of G issue? Is the firewall distance for the 503, 582, 912 all in the same spot? And only shorter for the rotec?
The 503 and 582 would be similar enough that the CG would be within limits. The biggest impact is the pilot's weight. The aeroplane is flown from the rear seat. The forward seat is pretty much on the CG. The 912 is different story. At an absolute minimum the battery probably should be bigger and moved aft of the rear seat. Some builders choose to move the firewall aft by a few inches as well
Ok, now I understand why you put your extra long distance fuel tank in the front seat. It's right on the c of g no matter how full/empty, so no balance issues.
Are you thinking of running any hidden camera wires inside the wings to the struts? Would be neat if a camera could be mounted on the tail looking forward with the pilot/plane in view
I sometimes use a camera mounted on top of the fin, I also have one mounted halfway out the upper wing. I've also had one mounted on the tailspring, just in front of the tailwheel. These angles are all good for certain purposes but getting useful, live sound from these cameras is really difficult.
Im just looking thru your past videos and see you've already made an entire video on riveting. Thanks!!! Im checking it out now !!!!
Can a person rivet wrongly?? Or is that 'non-screw-up-able' ??
You sure can screw up riveting. Admittedly pop type blind rivets are more difficult to screw up but possible nonetheless. What if the rivets are installed too close to the edge of the material being riveted? Too close is usually understood to be less than 2 rivet diameters fron the edge. What if you install aluminum rivets instead of steel or worse, stainless steel, what about not deburring your rivet holes..... these tiny chips will remain between the material being riveted, within a few flight hours the rivets in the non deburred holes will come loose, oops there are plenty of other ways to fail.
Thanks for that explanation Paul. Can you explain the basic riveting process as well ?Deburring?? What tools did you use?
Thanks for posting these types of videos. It is very interesting to hear you describing your build and why you are doing things a certain way.
Thank you very much for the kind feedback. I just blindly keep posting whatever I happen to be up to on any given day. The lion’s share of the videos are regarding my Murphy Renegade build but I also fly my RV6. Anyway, if you have any aviation related things you’d like to see, please let me know me know and I’ll see what I can do.
Great Video, Are you the Paul who worked at Avalon with Tiz, Greens, and myself? Many moons ago. Keep up the good work, Scotty
That would be me. I knew our paths would cross again sooner or later. I live in Temora now, about 200m from the front door of the Aviation museum, you’ve likely driven past my house many times or more likely landed at Temora many times. Great to hear from you after all these years.
Ha, I used to do this with paper rolls from printing calculators, you can get them for next to nothing and they hold up a little better to the propwash. They're a bit harder to spot in the air though.
I'd like to see one of those huge toilet rolls they have in shopping centers and service stations used. There would be a couple of potential issues though. You'd want to hope it didn't hit the horizontal stabilizer before it unfurled, us if it didn't unfurl it'd likely hurt someone on the ground. The Renegade is the perfect aeroplane for the task, I can usually manage 7 cuts in 1000' of course you're working pretty hard to achieve that many cuts. Glad you enjoyed.
@@pauloconnor2813 Yeah that would be nuts for sure, definitely a big target to see. Might need to figure out a TP dispenser that would hold the roll itself on the wing or somewhere clear of the tail, and then allow it to unroll when you pulled a string or something. That way the only thing being released is the TP itself and you wouldn't have to worry about the entire roll ruining someone's day if it didn't unfurl. I mostly used an agcat when I played around with printer rolls, and I could only get about five cuts before the propwash and turbulence made the pieces ball up and hard to spot in the air. It's nice to know I'm not the only one who had this idea lol
Five cuts with a big aeroplane is pretty good. There are a couple of tricks I've discovered. * Glue the cardboard center to the first few turns of paper with a couple of drops of superglue. The paper will ball up when the cardboard center falls off. * Only cut the very upper end of the streamer. * Use the wing to cut the paper not the prop. In my case, even one sheet of paper over the radiator will send the coolant temperature skyward very quickly.
Attack of the toilet papper😂
Imagine how I felt during Covid when I couldn't buy toilet paper for love nor money!
When you see an open cockpit & a dunny roll together you know somebody's about to have some fun. It's -15c here in the Idaho Rockies, no flying for a while here for me.
I've slowed down on winter flying a bit. Spent a couple of days in hospital a few years ago with pneumonia after flying all winter. Winter flying here in Australia is just a bit cool, nothing like the temps you experience. We have lots of nice days in winter, just cool.
By the way, it was just on 100 deg when I made that video. I was expecting way more bumps from thermals but it was actually pretty nice.
@@pauloconnor2813 I lived in Sydney for all the 80's before coming up here, I can barely remember long summers & mild winters!
I'm based in Temora, about 450km inland from Sydney. Flat farmland.
@@pauloconnor2813 I'm at 6k-ft with 10k-ft mts around me & fly a Subaru powered Pitbull gyro. -20c here this morning at 9am.