I wish there was a simple way to combine the audio into the HDMI.
@adameberbach25 күн бұрын
I can see how it would be annoying if you are plugging into a device with built-in speakers. The closed nature of HDMI is the problem of course; I totally understand why someone designing a hobbyist product like Sophia 2 would not be interested in paying the license fee just to use the HDMI connector and embed audio. There are HDMI-HDMI audio embed devices that seem to start at about $30 if you have no device with stereo jack.
@waltciii326 күн бұрын
Yay! Cool.
@Alex-pg6uo28 күн бұрын
Great video, followed it and did mine successfully.
@ozburnАй бұрын
Audio is very low :/
@adameberbachАй бұрын
Thanks - I'll redo it. Still learning!
@petrosbadalyan326Ай бұрын
Cool comp!
@explosionsofawesomeness959Ай бұрын
thanks man! you were a lot of help
@rafaeldickens2 ай бұрын
Guess who's doing this tutorial: A) an Avatar, B) Dr. Manhattan; C) Diva Plavalaguna 😂🏳️
@adameberbach2 ай бұрын
You missed Papa Smurf....
@consolegear2 ай бұрын
is there any other "creative" way besides cutting the shielding? I'm not equipped for that at all.
@adameberbach2 ай бұрын
It's difficult. The RF shield is a very tight seal. I have installed an Incognito without any extra cuts by using kynar-insulated 30AWG wires but I just don't know if it would be safe to squeeze the ribbon cable between the shield and the PCB. Maybe someone could cut it for you?
@consolegear2 ай бұрын
@@adameberbach I'll try and find someone that can, if not I guess I can always try a file :)
@consolegearАй бұрын
@@adameberbach Finally got it sorted. Long story, but I ended up having to cut a channel in the back of the RF shield to accommodate the Sophia 2, which also doubles as the exit path for the DVI board cable. It's a great picture. I used your side panel design, works really well. Thanks for sharing it!
@waltciii32 ай бұрын
Your 3D printing the port cover is a boss move. What I did was couple a DVI to HDMI cable internally and run the HDMI portion through the RF cable hole in the back. Your solution still saves the case and is much cooler. The optimal solution would have been an HDMI out with audio insertion... all in one HDMI cable but for darn licensing.
@adameberbach2 ай бұрын
Thanks! In fact I did not stop there. I have a HDMI PCB working the same as DVI does, but I have tweaked the layout a little so am waiting for a new PCB to come back and then I can tweak the 3D print to fit it. I'll make another video and post the gerbers and STL when it's done. Injecting audio into HDMI would be nice, but I just put a stereo audio jack next to the HDMI.
@cathrynm2 ай бұрын
I agree, very clean install.
@OEMichael3 ай бұрын
Fab tutorial! Exactly what I needed to walk me through the process. Thanks!
@pw77523 ай бұрын
LOL can't hear you at all when you start the heat gun!
@pcfreak19924 ай бұрын
What an amazing tutorial! Straight to the point and with all the detail you need. 👍
@Vanillaessence4 ай бұрын
I’m not even going to do this but I have to say this is the most thorough and and clear tutorial I’ve ever seen
@JosephChiocchi4 ай бұрын
thank you for this excellent tutorial
@eccodreams5 ай бұрын
Just finished doing this to the Elecom Huge I got for Christmas. Many thanks for the guide! Zirconia is INFINITELY better than the stock synth-ruby bearings.
@georgeyboyhowe16855 ай бұрын
whatss on your hands are you a surgeon ?🤣
@adameberbach5 ай бұрын
I have some big ugly scars.
@Evergreen646 ай бұрын
I have to ask. Where did you get the scalpel knife you used to open the package?
@adameberbach6 ай бұрын
You can find it at "County Comm Folding Titanium Craft Scalpel Knife". Excellent quality, have bought others but this is the one.
@ToasterBones6 ай бұрын
Great video, thanks! I might have a newer model, all the screws on the bottom needed a star/hex bit to remove. AND don't try to get around unclipping the wire ribbons... I did and it made things more difficult than it needed to be :)
@ekagaurangadas7 ай бұрын
Your pad is so clean!
@adameberbach7 ай бұрын
Clean and dirty state alternate... a little bit of isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel gets rid of the grime quickly.
@susesunshine8 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for this detailed video
@adameberbach7 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@mdombroski8 ай бұрын
I have fat fingers and have to use a magnetized screwdriver to maneuver small screws. I just swapped the ruby bearings in my Elecom Deft for Zirconium ones. I did not wear gloves and I had no trouble picking up the bearings with my fingers and inserting them. I did had to use a pick to push the old ones out.
@mdombroski8 ай бұрын
Not trying to be a smart aleck or anything. All these videos with people using tweezers and even masking tape to secure the bearings had me paranoid about losing them.
@adameberbach8 ай бұрын
@@mdombroski I only wore the gloves because I had a big scar on my hand! Even so they are tiny and easier (for me) to pick up with tweezers.
@mdombroski8 ай бұрын
I have a tip to avoid removing the rubber pads. Take an exacto knife and cut holes around the screws. I just did this with my Elecom Deft. You can usually find the general location of the screws from a KZread video and the point of the exacto knife can easily locate the exact locations. Then just cut tiny holes around the screws. This will make it easy to take it apart again if you want to do a switch swap or maybe even try a further upgrade to silicon nitride bearings.
@starfoxdelta9 ай бұрын
Would this work for the MX Ergo? :0
@drandrewtan10 ай бұрын
I finally got around to doing this (I used a different mouse til now). Your instructions are perfect. Only thing I would suggest is using a magnetised screwdriver - really helps with picking up those small screws and also re-inserting them again. Thanks again for the video!
@danlegend310410 ай бұрын
What material is the black board do you know which metal & what the black coating is ? Is it paint that will scratch off or is it anodized
@adameberbach10 ай бұрын
Hi - the metal is ferrous (obviously, magnets stick to it) and I would have to guess it is steel. My calipers measure 1.15mm thickness. It looks like a very tough powder coating with excellent legible printing. I honestly can't think of anything I would want to be made better on this.
@MolyMan0o10 ай бұрын
Thank you very much for this excellently made video. I subscribed to you because of just this vid. I just got my HUGE today and was trying to decide if I am going to upgrade my bearings. Thanks to the clear directions I am going to! Question for you though. Where did you get that mat and what is it called? Also, what are your thoughts on using graphite powder on the bearings also? I've seen a few people recommending it.
@adameberbach10 ай бұрын
The blue mat is a silicon soldering mat that I bought from Amazon. Many brand names can be found, wide range of prices for what seems like the same thing, I just picked the simplest and largest one I could. I have never tried graphite powder, maybe it would be smoother? But graphite is eventually going to end up on your fingers, keyboard, desk, so I feel the ball is smooth enough without.
@_BangDroid_11 ай бұрын
I thought I was hearing All Aussie Adventures with Russell Coight for 2 seconds
@adameberbach11 ай бұрын
Thanks mate!
@janns2001 Жыл бұрын
it was a huge difference, thank you for sharing
@ArchitecTJ37 Жыл бұрын
Only 12 subs....WTF.....At least now you got 1 more from mine. Go from 12 - 13 at the time I sub, you totally deserve it.
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
Thanks mate. I'm not a "serious" youtuber, I don't do promotion and videos are not very regular. But there are two projects coming up...
@ohms5054 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. Get yourself a neodymium magnet or two. They come in handy when removing screws. You won't risk accidentally marring the plascitc witht those needle nose pliears (plus it's just easier.) Also, if you drop a screw on the carpet, Scan the carpet with the magnet in back and forth sweeping motions, to find it.
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
Good tip. I recently got myself an Omnifixo so I am now well supplied with strong magnets!
@noskerdycatUSA Жыл бұрын
Can't get much better than this! Thank YOU!!!
@Ace_Disaster Жыл бұрын
So I just did this, I almost screamed, almost cried, pulled my hair out. It was so going great until I made a mistake. It wouldn't go back together. And what had happened was that when taking it apart I couldn't get that black yellow red connector to unplug, so instead I unscrewed the board from the cup on the other end. Then I reinstalled the board upside down, and couldn't understand why it wouldn't all fit back together at the end, it's cause I had put that board in upside down and hence put it in the way. I am very dumb
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
Looks like you worked it out though, now you know better next time. I could not count the number of things I have destroyed in learning to do this stuff!
@michbushi Жыл бұрын
put the adhesives on a bit of plastic foil/bag, for temp storage & reuse
@ophidslammish1368 Жыл бұрын
I got a quick video on the subject with 40k. I'm real sad to see these bearings are still being sent with the product
@3DComputing Жыл бұрын
where do I get that mat ? thats awsome for not loosing screws. And great video. Thanks
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
There are many different silicon mats on Amazon (where I found this one). Just make sure the one you get is the right size for your work surface, they come in many different sizes but they all look to be around the same size until you read the specs 🙂
@franklafond Жыл бұрын
Great video thank you! The most useful thing I learned though was to turn a screw counter-clockwise until it drops in to the grooves so you don't strip out the plastic. Brilliant!
@agnosticpanda6655 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this incredibly detailed showcase! Wouldn't have dared to reassemble my new mouse without this!
@munzutai Жыл бұрын
I exchanged the default bearings with ZrO2 G5 bearings and don't see much improvement. In fact, the ball seems even stickier now. Maybe I just have to break them in?
@TVperson1 Жыл бұрын
Can you do a similar replacement on the Mx ergo?
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
I would be happy to produce a similar video but I do not have a Logitech MX Ergo.
@8BarLoops Жыл бұрын
Awesome. Thanks
@drandrewtan Жыл бұрын
Fantastic video, fantastic step-by-step explanation! Really top notch stuff! Well done mate!
@MrEMann Жыл бұрын
Why would I buy a product that requires modification out of the box? Thanks for showing me what I won't be buying. Good grief. Edit: if you continue to buy subpar products the company will continue to make, wait for it, sup-par products. Yay, mediocrity!
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
Interesting philosophy; I prefer to think that it works well out of the box but can be made to work better. What are the perfect trackballs out there? I don't know of any.
@Amy_A. Жыл бұрын
I think the issues people post online may be exaggerated due to the break-in period of the trackball. The first day I got it (3-4 days ago), it was almost impossible to do small motions without it jumping way past where I intended it to move. It actually felt borderline unusable, and I was considering returning it. So I went online, did some research, assumed the bearings were the problem, saw I could replace them, and placed an order. They arrived today, and as I was replacing them, I realized that the initial jumpiness I'd seen had gone away entirely. I still did the replacement, and it's definitely a small improvement from the ruby bearings, but I wouldn't say it's required :)
@AdultshopitCoUk11 ай бұрын
@@Amy_A. Just bought one, first time, use today the huge one and its rolls just as easily as my slim blade or others I have.
@kyotra6 ай бұрын
Oh no, people have to do some _work_ to get exactly what they want! How terrible! Compared to mice, the trackball market is super limited - people have to make do with what they can find. Aside from that, some people simply don't mind modding things _because they're not lazy._
@amischair1906 Жыл бұрын
Loved this video. Precise and concise! Thanks for the great instructions.
@johnsuarez1404 Жыл бұрын
Dude THANK YOU
@wiegraf9009 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the very clear and thorough explanation! No distracting music or anything, just exactly what I needed to know! The HUGE is working much nicer now. I also cut some small pieces of dense packing foam to put in the hollow parts of the palm rest in order to make the case more rigid and to dampen any sounds inside. It makes it feel a lot less cheaply made, even if the microswitches still aren't the best!
@andrewfox4467 Жыл бұрын
Absolutely superb. It had highs, it had lows but we made it in the end. A great guide, which sorted my HUGE out a treat. Bonzer! 🇬🇧
@euphanasia210 Жыл бұрын
I bought one of these and the ball is too big! 🤣 j/p
@OmarLivesUnderSpace Жыл бұрын
Have done the same operation, almost step in step as you and this kzread.info/dash/bejne/epun1pmDkcynkZc.html dude did, yet the stickiness has barely gone. What might I have done wrong? Is there anything that can be done wrong here?
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
Is everything perfectly clean? The tiny white balls do not move in their sockets but they must be clean and the main ball must be clean to minimize drag. Other than that are the balls placed perfectly in their sockets and is the cup that holds the main ball fitted together exactly?
@WyvernDotRed Жыл бұрын
Firstly, my Elecom Huge hasn't arrived yet, so this is based on my M570. Try getting a thin coat of skin-oils on the ball, like with glass trackpads, it needs this to run smoothly. This can be done by rolling it in your hands or against your forehead a bit and can drastically improve the smoothness.
@OmarLivesUnderSpace Жыл бұрын
@@adameberbach Somehow, I read your reply only now (/ω＼) Sorry for that Yes, everything was clean (as much as it's possible in an ordinary room) and perfectly fit, nothing is loose
@OmarLivesUnderSpace Жыл бұрын
@@WyvernDotRed You mean, THE ball? Not the bearings?
@WyvernDotRed Жыл бұрын
@@OmarLivesUnderSpace I mean the ball, not the bearings. Greasing the bearings barely makes a difference as the contact area just rubs clean. Very lightly greasing the entire ball, with your own natural skin oils, keeps the contact area lubricated consistently. This is what the "running in" of trackballs actually is, at least judging by the one I have currently.
@icewindzg Жыл бұрын
Would I be correct in that removing the two screws that are underneath the scrollwheel assembly is not actually necessary for this process? From what I see in the video, it does not impede the top section from being removed.
@adameberbach Жыл бұрын
Correct, you can leave the lower part of the ball cup attached to the mouse top. It is good to place it on a level surface for the ball replacement but not essential.
Пікірлер
HUGE trackball for SMALL hands)))
I wish there was a simple way to combine the audio into the HDMI.
I can see how it would be annoying if you are plugging into a device with built-in speakers. The closed nature of HDMI is the problem of course; I totally understand why someone designing a hobbyist product like Sophia 2 would not be interested in paying the license fee just to use the HDMI connector and embed audio. There are HDMI-HDMI audio embed devices that seem to start at about $30 if you have no device with stereo jack.
Yay! Cool.
Great video, followed it and did mine successfully.
Audio is very low :/
Thanks - I'll redo it. Still learning!
Cool comp!
thanks man! you were a lot of help
Guess who's doing this tutorial: A) an Avatar, B) Dr. Manhattan; C) Diva Plavalaguna 😂🏳️
You missed Papa Smurf....
is there any other "creative" way besides cutting the shielding? I'm not equipped for that at all.
It's difficult. The RF shield is a very tight seal. I have installed an Incognito without any extra cuts by using kynar-insulated 30AWG wires but I just don't know if it would be safe to squeeze the ribbon cable between the shield and the PCB. Maybe someone could cut it for you?
@@adameberbach I'll try and find someone that can, if not I guess I can always try a file :)
@@adameberbach Finally got it sorted. Long story, but I ended up having to cut a channel in the back of the RF shield to accommodate the Sophia 2, which also doubles as the exit path for the DVI board cable. It's a great picture. I used your side panel design, works really well. Thanks for sharing it!
Your 3D printing the port cover is a boss move. What I did was couple a DVI to HDMI cable internally and run the HDMI portion through the RF cable hole in the back. Your solution still saves the case and is much cooler. The optimal solution would have been an HDMI out with audio insertion... all in one HDMI cable but for darn licensing.
Thanks! In fact I did not stop there. I have a HDMI PCB working the same as DVI does, but I have tweaked the layout a little so am waiting for a new PCB to come back and then I can tweak the 3D print to fit it. I'll make another video and post the gerbers and STL when it's done. Injecting audio into HDMI would be nice, but I just put a stereo audio jack next to the HDMI.
I agree, very clean install.
Fab tutorial! Exactly what I needed to walk me through the process. Thanks!
LOL can't hear you at all when you start the heat gun!
What an amazing tutorial! Straight to the point and with all the detail you need. 👍
I’m not even going to do this but I have to say this is the most thorough and and clear tutorial I’ve ever seen
thank you for this excellent tutorial
Just finished doing this to the Elecom Huge I got for Christmas. Many thanks for the guide! Zirconia is INFINITELY better than the stock synth-ruby bearings.
whatss on your hands are you a surgeon ?🤣
I have some big ugly scars.
I have to ask. Where did you get the scalpel knife you used to open the package?
You can find it at "County Comm Folding Titanium Craft Scalpel Knife". Excellent quality, have bought others but this is the one.
Great video, thanks! I might have a newer model, all the screws on the bottom needed a star/hex bit to remove. AND don't try to get around unclipping the wire ribbons... I did and it made things more difficult than it needed to be :)
Your pad is so clean!
Clean and dirty state alternate... a little bit of isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel gets rid of the grime quickly.
Thanks so much for this detailed video
Glad it was helpful!
I have fat fingers and have to use a magnetized screwdriver to maneuver small screws. I just swapped the ruby bearings in my Elecom Deft for Zirconium ones. I did not wear gloves and I had no trouble picking up the bearings with my fingers and inserting them. I did had to use a pick to push the old ones out.
Not trying to be a smart aleck or anything. All these videos with people using tweezers and even masking tape to secure the bearings had me paranoid about losing them.
@@mdombroski I only wore the gloves because I had a big scar on my hand! Even so they are tiny and easier (for me) to pick up with tweezers.
I have a tip to avoid removing the rubber pads. Take an exacto knife and cut holes around the screws. I just did this with my Elecom Deft. You can usually find the general location of the screws from a KZread video and the point of the exacto knife can easily locate the exact locations. Then just cut tiny holes around the screws. This will make it easy to take it apart again if you want to do a switch swap or maybe even try a further upgrade to silicon nitride bearings.
Would this work for the MX Ergo? :0
I finally got around to doing this (I used a different mouse til now). Your instructions are perfect. Only thing I would suggest is using a magnetised screwdriver - really helps with picking up those small screws and also re-inserting them again. Thanks again for the video!
What material is the black board do you know which metal & what the black coating is ? Is it paint that will scratch off or is it anodized
Hi - the metal is ferrous (obviously, magnets stick to it) and I would have to guess it is steel. My calipers measure 1.15mm thickness. It looks like a very tough powder coating with excellent legible printing. I honestly can't think of anything I would want to be made better on this.
Thank you very much for this excellently made video. I subscribed to you because of just this vid. I just got my HUGE today and was trying to decide if I am going to upgrade my bearings. Thanks to the clear directions I am going to! Question for you though. Where did you get that mat and what is it called? Also, what are your thoughts on using graphite powder on the bearings also? I've seen a few people recommending it.
The blue mat is a silicon soldering mat that I bought from Amazon. Many brand names can be found, wide range of prices for what seems like the same thing, I just picked the simplest and largest one I could. I have never tried graphite powder, maybe it would be smoother? But graphite is eventually going to end up on your fingers, keyboard, desk, so I feel the ball is smooth enough without.
I thought I was hearing All Aussie Adventures with Russell Coight for 2 seconds
Thanks mate!
it was a huge difference, thank you for sharing
Only 12 subs....WTF.....At least now you got 1 more from mine. Go from 12 - 13 at the time I sub, you totally deserve it.
Thanks mate. I'm not a "serious" youtuber, I don't do promotion and videos are not very regular. But there are two projects coming up...
Thanks for the video. Get yourself a neodymium magnet or two. They come in handy when removing screws. You won't risk accidentally marring the plascitc witht those needle nose pliears (plus it's just easier.) Also, if you drop a screw on the carpet, Scan the carpet with the magnet in back and forth sweeping motions, to find it.
Good tip. I recently got myself an Omnifixo so I am now well supplied with strong magnets!
Can't get much better than this! Thank YOU!!!
So I just did this, I almost screamed, almost cried, pulled my hair out. It was so going great until I made a mistake. It wouldn't go back together. And what had happened was that when taking it apart I couldn't get that black yellow red connector to unplug, so instead I unscrewed the board from the cup on the other end. Then I reinstalled the board upside down, and couldn't understand why it wouldn't all fit back together at the end, it's cause I had put that board in upside down and hence put it in the way. I am very dumb
Looks like you worked it out though, now you know better next time. I could not count the number of things I have destroyed in learning to do this stuff!
put the adhesives on a bit of plastic foil/bag, for temp storage & reuse
I got a quick video on the subject with 40k. I'm real sad to see these bearings are still being sent with the product
where do I get that mat ? thats awsome for not loosing screws. And great video. Thanks
There are many different silicon mats on Amazon (where I found this one). Just make sure the one you get is the right size for your work surface, they come in many different sizes but they all look to be around the same size until you read the specs 🙂
Great video thank you! The most useful thing I learned though was to turn a screw counter-clockwise until it drops in to the grooves so you don't strip out the plastic. Brilliant!
Thank you so much for this incredibly detailed showcase! Wouldn't have dared to reassemble my new mouse without this!
I exchanged the default bearings with ZrO2 G5 bearings and don't see much improvement. In fact, the ball seems even stickier now. Maybe I just have to break them in?
Can you do a similar replacement on the Mx ergo?
I would be happy to produce a similar video but I do not have a Logitech MX Ergo.
Awesome. Thanks
Fantastic video, fantastic step-by-step explanation! Really top notch stuff! Well done mate!
Why would I buy a product that requires modification out of the box? Thanks for showing me what I won't be buying. Good grief. Edit: if you continue to buy subpar products the company will continue to make, wait for it, sup-par products. Yay, mediocrity!
Interesting philosophy; I prefer to think that it works well out of the box but can be made to work better. What are the perfect trackballs out there? I don't know of any.
I think the issues people post online may be exaggerated due to the break-in period of the trackball. The first day I got it (3-4 days ago), it was almost impossible to do small motions without it jumping way past where I intended it to move. It actually felt borderline unusable, and I was considering returning it. So I went online, did some research, assumed the bearings were the problem, saw I could replace them, and placed an order. They arrived today, and as I was replacing them, I realized that the initial jumpiness I'd seen had gone away entirely. I still did the replacement, and it's definitely a small improvement from the ruby bearings, but I wouldn't say it's required :)
@@Amy_A. Just bought one, first time, use today the huge one and its rolls just as easily as my slim blade or others I have.
Oh no, people have to do some _work_ to get exactly what they want! How terrible! Compared to mice, the trackball market is super limited - people have to make do with what they can find. Aside from that, some people simply don't mind modding things _because they're not lazy._
Loved this video. Precise and concise! Thanks for the great instructions.
Dude THANK YOU
Thank you for the very clear and thorough explanation! No distracting music or anything, just exactly what I needed to know! The HUGE is working much nicer now. I also cut some small pieces of dense packing foam to put in the hollow parts of the palm rest in order to make the case more rigid and to dampen any sounds inside. It makes it feel a lot less cheaply made, even if the microswitches still aren't the best!
Absolutely superb. It had highs, it had lows but we made it in the end. A great guide, which sorted my HUGE out a treat. Bonzer! 🇬🇧
I bought one of these and the ball is too big! 🤣 j/p
Have done the same operation, almost step in step as you and this kzread.info/dash/bejne/epun1pmDkcynkZc.html dude did, yet the stickiness has barely gone. What might I have done wrong? Is there anything that can be done wrong here?
Is everything perfectly clean? The tiny white balls do not move in their sockets but they must be clean and the main ball must be clean to minimize drag. Other than that are the balls placed perfectly in their sockets and is the cup that holds the main ball fitted together exactly?
Firstly, my Elecom Huge hasn't arrived yet, so this is based on my M570. Try getting a thin coat of skin-oils on the ball, like with glass trackpads, it needs this to run smoothly. This can be done by rolling it in your hands or against your forehead a bit and can drastically improve the smoothness.
@@adameberbach Somehow, I read your reply only now (/ω＼) Sorry for that Yes, everything was clean (as much as it's possible in an ordinary room) and perfectly fit, nothing is loose
@@WyvernDotRed You mean, THE ball? Not the bearings?
@@OmarLivesUnderSpace I mean the ball, not the bearings. Greasing the bearings barely makes a difference as the contact area just rubs clean. Very lightly greasing the entire ball, with your own natural skin oils, keeps the contact area lubricated consistently. This is what the "running in" of trackballs actually is, at least judging by the one I have currently.
Would I be correct in that removing the two screws that are underneath the scrollwheel assembly is not actually necessary for this process? From what I see in the video, it does not impede the top section from being removed.
Correct, you can leave the lower part of the ball cup attached to the mouse top. It is good to place it on a level surface for the ball replacement but not essential.