Come take a look over my shoulder while I have some fun in my shop.
It's going to be mostly hobby things I'm messing around with.
Could be some electronics project.
Maybe an Arduino thing.
Occasionally it could even be my model railroad.
Or just something else that catches my fancy.
Pileofstuff
PO Box 53063
South St Vital
Winnipeg, MB, Canada
R2N 3X2
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Banggood: pileofstuff.ca/r/9ajsf
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There is nothing more precious than the relationship between a father and his daughter
This is the FIRST video to feature hooking up a rotary accessory to a F2 Pro of any size. I was beginning to think that Creality were deliberately keeping the bad news from it's potential customers. Thank you for being honest and up front about it all.
I'm not convinced the rotary is intended for the fully enclosed Pro models, but clearly it can be made to work if you aren't concerned about bypassing a few safety features.
Can you engrave a record and then play it on a turntable? Now, that would be cool.
That would be an interesting challenge.
Good demo, not sure I need one but it would be nice to have.
Excellent piece of kit! Mmmm…retirement…🤔
Awesome, please can you do a follow up video and show off cutting acrylic and other materials? Very intriguing machine.
I'll do something like that in a few weeks.
@@pileofstuff Yes please, this machine appears to be promising for people like myself who looking for machine to cut perspex with all the advantage of diode laser.
Ha. I just checked your link and they are pushing the 60w laser now. I am still happy with my Creality 10w although etching metal would be cool. Thanks for the video.
That is awesome, I wish creality sent me that !
Nice Cutter/Engraver. Well packaged too.
I always wondered if it was risky engraving super shiny materials , like the beam could reflect back into the diode and destroy it?
$2k The debris tray is really nice. Having an LC40, it's annoying to have to keep getting in the work area with sticky tape to try to remove all the tiny debris that makes the mounting mat lie crooked.
I plan to order a few of their kits now thanks to you! Cheers
That's not a cheap bit of kit. You have impressed someone at Creality! Nice!
I certainly wasn't expecting the offer from them, but if they're volunteering to upgrade my tools , I'm not going to refuse...
That thing is really impressive. I have one of the big industrial machines, and it gets used every day. Even so...this thing is super impressive.
One thing I haven't heard anyone mention about cutting the thicker materials is that if you focus the laser to the middle of the depth of your cut (as long as the head doesn't hit), you might actually be able to cut even thicker things since the sweet spot is in the center of the item instead of the top.
The little focusing block thingie has different heights for engraving and 2 depths for cutting different thicknesses that accommodates for exactly that.
Are these power relays typically double pole double throw?
There is no reason for them to be, but I suspect if DPDT relays are less expensive they might use those.
I’m curious if it’s safer with DPDT if neutral is disconnected along with hot. I’m EE but not edu in the high power side.
@@sh91899 Assuming the outlet you are plugged into is wired properly, then there should be no potential on the neutral when the hot is disconnected. Of course, that assumption may be problematic...
Change the resistor for a few cheap Ali 2 ohm 100W resistors in parallel, add a fan and perhaps use a dual op amp with the second one monitoring a thermister on the heatsink so that if it gets above a set temperature then it provides a bit of negative feedback to the load. Then it is a pretty capable little load.
Add a diode between the opamp and the MOSFET gate to keep the opamp safe in case you are testing some higher voltage like that in case if the MOSFET get shorted the higher voltage will be blocked by the diode
make it more nicer add 100w resistor at list and add also a voltamp meter like that you can see how many volts you are pushing inn and how many amps you are drawing!
pushing 16A on that resistor is painful
That's the risks of using whatever parts I have on hand.
You should add a diode between the opamp and the mosfet gate in case you are going to test more high voltage and the mosfet my get shorted will protect the high voltage to dont affect the opamp!
I was thinking about your first idea... How to fool the battery discharger to do the job?... Error 3 on ZB2L3 gadget .
I can scroll thru the menu and set it to s specific current, then turn it on, so it can provide a load. What I don't think it can do is vary it's loading on the fly.
Those are 2 Gb - gigabit ram chips, so 256MB and 1GB in total ;)
Your LED matrix is broken?
If it gets whacked the last segment sometimes loses its mind. A quick power cycle restores it.
Amazing and quick build, i love it, just one thought, it would be recomendable to put a 104 (100nf) ceramic disc cap as close as possible to the lm385 p-supply pin, This will give smoother operation. Also perhaps you should hook it up to a scope to see if there is any osscliations, which can lead to the whole cct heating up more than it should. A very small o.1 ohm resistor with a 10 uf electrolitic cap just after the bread board supply will form an RC filter which will knock out any input ripple, because in general these cct's have low ripple rejection in general, but man that was fun to watch.
I'm looking for a bluetooth with a map location finder. I plan to waterproof it and flush it. I need to find my septic and it's worth it to waste a bluetooth tag.
I don't think this one would work well for your use case.
@@pileofstuff I found "Zenlyfe" it died.(I Guess) .. then Somethinlyfe where its the same thing. The app does a hotter/colder on the app.
You can't run 6 amps through that breadboard.
That's why it's so badly melted.
Some suggestions: add a fan (it increases massively the power handling capability), choose a MOSFET with a comfortable safe operating area SOA for your needs (the irl540 that was in that schematic is a cheap good choice, you DON'T want a MOSFET with a very low RDSon, it creates hot spots), add a 10~47nF between the opamp output and negative input (this limits the bandwith improving the stability, and prevents your mosfet from burning due to Mhz oscilations), replace the 1ohm resistor with a 0.1ohm and amplify the signal 10x or divide the pot output voltage by 10. Bonus tip, you can use a quad opamp 4 Mosfets and 4 resistors for a more powerful load, the control part remains the same, however you would need a bigger heatsink... And remember there no such thing as "too big heat sink" 😂👍
yeah, that would be the "proper" way to do it. What you saw was the "quick and dirty using what I have on hand" approach.
Did you test it at it's rated input of 180-240 volts?
Hi, Great video. I notice on your bench a small electric screwdriver. what is the make and model?
It's a Kaiweets ES20 pileofstuff.ca/r/qwslg
@@pileofstuff cheers
Change nothing, it is beautiful and a child of necessity, it is quite simply the finest of fine 'Jank' and I for one would be proud to have it grace my lab.....cheers.
I appreciate that you have embraced my "style" in the appropriate manner.
@@pileofstuff :)
If u want to build a "good" load, u have to do more than using a cooler for your mosfet. i build a load with 300W and one transistor (IXFK94N50P2) - and its horrible, to cool it down to the maximum temperature allowed - so its not burning up. as a measuring resistor, im using the Riedon PCS-0R1D1. Its a liitle bit "more" testing needed to "waste" hundreads of watts ;)
True, but I didn't really expect this to be "professional grade". This was a "use what's on hand for a quick easy result" type build.
You can change the load current (power) of the DL24 "on the fly," while testing. You do not have to build your own, except as a project. I provide Windows PC (not Linux, sorry) for the DL24 on my web site. Free download.
4:13 - Looks like me working out a patch on some of my modular synths!
Also 15:18 - "Give us a reading on the 1202 Program Alarm …”
I looked at the bottom too ;-)
make a full PCB out of the test rig you made and post it to a shematice ? (sorry for the bad spelling)
I made a comment on the previous video about using the cheap power supply as a bench power supply with some added external fusing. I forgot to mention that I never use mine for more than 2 or 3 amps.
I like looking at the bottom regardless of how it looks to see how you did what you did.
A little pointer! If you expect the FET gate voltage to reach 10 V, please note that the 10 V for your choice FET is expected to be Gate to Source. Your source voltage climbs with the current increase. At 6 A, 1 ohm, you are increasing the source potential already to 6 V and that leaves 12 V - 6 V = 6 V instead of the data sheet 10 V….
I've ordered some additional FETs,for stock including the specific one called out in the design I was basing my build on. That said, this "made from what I have on hand" version serves my current (pun not intended) need.
Nice home-made load! I've never seen a bench power supply like yours (the one with the 7 segment leds). What is the brand / model of the tiny power supply?
It's this one: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y4Vnj82kj5zVZNY.html
Yes great design. In addition to finding a higher wattage load resistor, i believe it would be prudent to install a 5v or 12vdc fan with perhaps a thermistor. I just might have to build one of these for rooting out those pesky Chinese failed gadgets.
Yes, it would definitely benefit from a fan.
This was interesting.
I'd drop the 1 ohm resistor value a bit. Would limit your current at low voltages. I.e at 5V the max you could possibly get is 5A, but you also need to drive the gate to at least 10V. I built something similar back in the '90s. I think I used a 0.1 ohm res. You would probably want to add a resistor in series with the pot to limit the max current. An alternative is instead of connecting the pot to a reference 12V supply, connect it to the output. Then the load changes from constant current to constant resistance.
Nice little circuit. One question though, what beer were you drinking ?
Stir Stick Stout, from Half Pints brewery.
@@pileofstuff So it's hard to order another one when you've had a few then. LOL.
Scope it...there's a good chance that circuit is oscillating! Also, that FET (most FETs) are not specified for linear operation, so don't be surprised if it goes up in smoke...
That is possible. I was just being lazy with the capacitors.
on the other hand, I have yet to see a mosfet going dead in linear operation if the thermal constraints are observed. keep the junction temperature within safe limits, and it should be fine.
@@user-zc8sd8jx8s Actually not. Look into thermal runaway, SOA, etc... Most "digital" MOSFETs don't even show SOA to DC.
Very nice video, thanks ! You can make a low ohm Resistor with just a piece of wire.. in a bucket of water for cooling .. MikesElectricStuff did that once.. long time ago
I thought that PSU was not rated for 110V input? if so that will seriously reduce it's output capability. It may run but won't provide the 16A it states.
good point
I'm still surprised that it works at all.
the resistor is 1Ohm. 6A * 1 Ohm = 6V across the resistor which is 6*6 = 36W. too much for the resistor. If you put second 1 Ohm in parallel it'll be 6A * 0.5 Ohm = 3V * 6A = 18W (9 W each resistor) The rest will go to the transistor which has more heat transfer capability - metal to metal contact. But that heat sink looks like it's good for 15-20 W at most. Maybe even less without fan. But if it's cold you can do much over that for short time.
Yes, this was just cobbled together with parts I happened to have on hand and a random salvaged heatsink.
@@pileofstuff ..and that is exactly what I enjoyed most about this. The essence of fine/fun engineering is building what you need with what you have.
use some 55w car headlamps was the input 220v?
Car headlamp/side light 55W/23W, or household halogen bulbs at 10W/20W are my goto for a simple 12V load. Not adjustable, but very easy to set up.
Just a crazy idea. Add a pizoelectric heat transfer plate to aid in thermal management of the resistor. Can't remember what the device is called.
A peltier cooler?
@@pileofstuff yeah that. It would increase potential power draw. Both by its own use and allowing the the resistor to take more current. Like I said, crazy idea.
@@kyleallred984 Crazy ideas don't offend me (as witnessed by this janky build...)
Most interesting video let it live in its Frakenstien format