A small family farm located in the beautiful Appalachian mountains of western North Carolina. We practice sustainable farming methods and raise some farm livestock. We also produce quality mixed grass/legume's hay and are constantly striving to improve our quality hay production. Our goal is to produce the best quality mixed grass (mostly Orchard) and legume hay in our area. We produce and sell high quality hay in small round bales that average around 45-50# each. We strongly believe in being good stewards of our land and animals.
Disclaimer! Our channel at 8th Day Chronicles / Cross Timbers Farm is for entertainment purposes only. Any methods, techniques, resources used are for entertainment purposes only and we do not make any claims regarding the safety of techniques, equipment, resources or information used in our videos. If you use any of our information or techniques we assume no liability whatsoever to your safety or outcome, you assume your own risks, property and bodily!
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I am in Kentucky 45 minutes outside of Cincinnati, small round bales are selling for $4.00/bale to $7.00/bale. We are selling ours at $5.00/bale to a local goat farmer and we are also raising Nigerian Dwarf and Boer goats. The first cutting was very late, but the goats seem to love it.
Seems like the prices are about the same here in Arkansas. We Will increase our price this year. We were at $4 a bale for 35 pound 2x2 bale. We will be $5 a bale for 40 pound bale this year. We had a hay test done on our first cut, average quality. Seems all the amendments we did over the last year are still not showing their full potential. Time is a contrary friend. We will keep going until we are happy with the quality. Nice video. Tell Susan we say good morning!
Over some time all those amendments and work will indeed show up on the test paperwork. Where you had to have so much topsoil taken off is affecting that? Y’all have sure done a lot of work on your farm, and it shows. Susan says hello to y’all!
@8thdaychronicles yes, where we are rebuilding soil is the troubling area. The 2 acres where the soil was undisturbed is doing great. I didn't test that hay separately, but I think I will for the second cut.
@@tommywise1702 I have no doubt hay from Chigger Hill will land in the “premium” category soon. The amount of sweat equity you guys put into your farm is obvious and admirable.
Here in NW Texas I'm selling my mini rounds at $7 each, my baler is set up to keep them at about 50-55lbs so I can stay on the same level as those selling square bales. Private seller horse hay is running about $10-12 a bale. Upwards of $15 a bale at the feed stores. I have consistent buyers because I only fertilize according to the soil report that I do every spring. And yups, weed killer twice a yr. Most of my buyers feed my hay to their beef cows or sheep or their dairy goats. So they do not want a high content of synthetics in it. I'm going to lime the entire place this winter. The real battle is with the neighbors because they do nothing with their fields and all of that blows over into mine.
@8thdaychronicles we have went from no usable forage to saleable forage in 3 years. Thanks in great part to your videos, hard work, and an understanding wife. I'll bet we are not far from excellent hay in the foreseeable future.
I was wondering how long it took to bale an acre with the little round baler.
Redlands says this baler bales up to 100 bales per hour. Of course thats all dependent on how thick or thin your hay fields are, etc.
Great video
Thank you!
How much do those bales weigh? Also, what is the largest setting for bales out of that baler?
The baler makes a 2’x2’ bale. The baler has different density settings also, light thru heavy. Mine is set on the medium-heavy setting and makes average of 45 lb bale. Thanks for watching!
Where in Arkansas are you from? I taught Ag at Pea Ridge for 31 years
Never mind…I do not know why I thought you were from Arkansas
That’s ok. One of the posts above says they are from Arkansas.
Awesome video Darren, I have posted on your channel before. I just changed my signature name. Just ordered that twine from COUNTRYMAX online. My local stores in NW Texas don't carry anything that small. Have you considered making a couple more of those tow bars and selling them? Folks can get the PTO locally. Again, thanks for the twine test! Now, please Lord, bring us some rain! God Bless.
Thank you kindly! Maybe that brand twine has been around for awhile and I just never noticed or saw it until now, not sure, but I'm happy I found it...so far. Time will tell. My close friend (who is a professional welder/fabricator) that helped me build my drawbar, and I discussed building a few drawbars for sale but ultimately decided against it. Too many risks that some half-baked person might use it wrong, damage something, etc....so we chose to forget that idea. Praying for rain for you guys! Thanks a bunch.
That is Arkansas weather for sure. I use the twist and pull method to check if it's time to bale one as well. Seems to get us close for sure. The meter is the best, Sally checks the first bale while I get ready for the second. I don't like the short runs with the wheel rake. As soon as it starts working well, you are at the end of the row. Looks like you got the windrows thin enough, always a challenge with these small balers - good job for sure. I'm with you, should be toxin free! Glad you got some rain and cooler temps. Been nice around here (very odd for July) mid 80's to 90 for over a week. We use a 16k roll of Brazilian Gold twine, works great. Bet it's about the same size. Hope Susan stayed cool. Thanks for the video.
The old-time way of doing things usually works good. Those farmers before us knew what they were doing. I always twist-test several spot before starting the baler too. I’ve found it’s like backing up a little short trailer versus a longer one. If you can back up a 6’ trailer, a 20’ trailer will be a piece of cake. If you can neatly rake a small paddock, a large field is no problem. We’ve been getting showers/rain the last few days and with that, cooler temps. It’s great! Thanks a bundle and we pray you and Mrs Sally have a great day!
Good evening. I just unloaded and uncreated my Farm Maxx 185. Did yours come with assembly instructions? Mine did not. Are they online somewhere? Just wondering if you can provide me any help. Thanks
No, mine didn’t either. I just looked closely at pictures and looked at a parts diagram on Kowalski website to make sure my assembly was correct. If you are unsure about anything while assembling, contact your dealer and see if he can get you a manual
Lime is worth the money for sure. We put two ton per acre last year and that got us to 6.0. We will put two ton per acre again this fall. Hope you and Susan have a good week!
I’m planning to lime again this winter also. Of course I’ll check with a soil test first, but it’s already on my radar. Thanks a bundle and our best to you and Mrs Sally.
Hello hope you are doing well working on last step of FMD mower spacers. Got it all blocked everything taken apart. Issue I'm having is is there a trick to and simple way after you put spacers on to put plate back on to hold spacers in place . I think I have tried everything maybe I'm doing it wrong any ideas thank you as always is just the wife and I putting this together 95 degrees and outside as always thank you.
Howdy. I just stick the appropriate length bolt up thru the plate and the spacers and hold it up with one hand line it up and with the other start the bolt. I kinda kick the bolt a bit sideways so the threads hold the spacers until I can get one bolt started. I have used a floor jack too, which is probably easier. If you have to, use a bit of tape like electrical tape to hold the spacers in alignment until you can hand-start the bolt. Once you get one started, the rest is easy. Ive added/taken off spacers multiple times by myself, its not difficult, just take your time, use safe blocks to block it up and even then, dont get nothing but your hand/forearm under those drums, just in case. If it falls somehow, it could be BAD if your torso was under there. And a bit of advice....dont put too many spacers to start with. Add 1-2, cut with it, look at your cut quality, if satisfied, maybe add 2 more, inspect the cut, etc, etc. I feel there is a limit with spacers to getting a good cut depending on how rough your field is and how thick your hay is. Ive heard some guys put alot on at once and find the cut quality dont suit them. Moderation is the key. Heck Ive heard some folks really like the cut at factory setting. Id suggest trying it at stock height one and see what YOU think. You may like it. Everyone likes things a little different. Do what suits YOU. Good luck!
Great information and very informative explanations. Thanks for the tips! First year back in the hay field after 20 years so reminders like these are critical for me. Big difference in being a teenager hired hand (like I was) and the farm owner (me now)… God bless
Thanks a bundle for the kind words! Much appreciated and thanks for watching and welcome to our channel!
I just ordered a Farm Maxx FDM185 and watching your video makes me even more excited to get it. Should be here in about a week or two. I did get the lift kit and may have a question or two when we are assembling it. Thanks for all your videos, I really enjoy them. Have a blessed day.
Thats great! Just "go easy" on the lift kit. Start with 1-2, check cut, add if desired, check cut, once it starts cutting a bit rougher, stop and take whatever spacers you added before the cut quality diminished back off. Too many throw too many spacers on and dont get a real clean cut. Heck you may be just happy as can be with it in the factory cut position....try it first. I lowered my cut height back down quite a bit just after this cut in this video. More to come later on that. Anyhow, good luck! For the money spent they are a good machine. God bless!
@@8thdaychronicles thanks for the advice.
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤ great 👍 informative ❤
Thanks!
Good stuff 8th day
Thanks, Rod. Much appreciated!
That is some good-looking hay for sure. Ours is struggling but coming along. We will get two cuttings I think, maybe three one field. Thanks for the video, y'all have a good week.
Our yield would have been better if we hadnt went thru such a hot, dry spell in June, but what is there is premium hay. Praying we get rains after this is in the barn! Best to you and Mrs. Sally.
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤great information ❤
Thanks a bundle!
I am considering buying a drum mower. My only concern is the height of cut. The fellow selling it says all you have to do is lengthen the top link. That will tilt it back a bit and you can get a 3 or 4 inch stubble. Have you had any experience with doing this?
Think about tilting the mower up on the front side. Those drums turn at high speed. When the front tilts up, the trailing side tilts down. Those blades go round and round, not just on the front. Personally, I’ve found if you don’t set a drum mower level and balanced to move with the contours of your field, you won’t get a nice clean of a cut as it’s capable of. So if you ask my opinion, no, tilting to raise cut height is counter-productive.
@@8thdaychronicles what height does yours cut at?
@@christopherpyle3503 I have factory lift spacers installed on mine, currently cutting around 3.5 inches. I may take a couple off in the near future and get it back down to around 3”. My mower is a Kowalski. Although drum mowers operate basically the same, there subtle differences in brands
@@8thdaychronicles thanks for the info. I am looking at a Farm Maxx and a Enrossi. The Farm Maxx has the spacer option. Waiting to hear back from the factory if the Enrossi offers a spacer option.
@@christopherpyle3503 If you go with the spacer kit, dont add 6-8 at a time. Add 1-2 and cut a section and look to see if its cutting to your satisfaction before adding more. Heck cut with it first once without any spacers and inspect the height. What one person deems too low may be acceptable to another. I know several guys that use theirs at factory settings and like it. Some dont. Ive heard of some folks install 6-8 right from the start and complain about the rough cut they got. The condition of your fields, I think, has some bearing on it too. The rougher and bumpier the field, the less spacers (if any) you need to get a nice cut. Good luck!
Hello since I send you last message my wife and I got the FDM 165 together assembled except the curtain You were right it takes a man and a man to put it together. We think it is right however the assembly instructions we got were vague.just by chance do u know where I can find one? All there was was operators manual the one that was send from dealer had couple different things in in it of course had and such. We just not quite sure if we are good maybe take pics and send them to u via text or something we just don't want to do it all over again. We are just unsure sorry and thank u so much as always for your help.
No idea on an assembly manual. Id suggest contacting the dealer you bought it from and request one. If no luck there contact the manufacturer and ask for one via email. My drum mower and the 165 model could have slight differences in assembly. If no luck with any of that, find an experienced hay farmer in your area and coerce them into stopping by to look at your machine to see if its assembled correctly. Good luck!
Thank you I think the wife and I got it together. The question I have the break away spring how would u know how loose or how tight it should be. The other stupid qquestion We have how much tension should be on the belts the deflection it does not state it anywhere just says tight?? We feel so bad asking all of these questions and sorry we know u are busy. Thank you very much.
@@BertSchmidt-jt5go no problem. Some of this is tough to answer without being there and seeing your individual mower. You will know if you’ve set the break-away spring tension too light. Mine broke away a time or two and I kept increasing tension until it stopped breaking loose at just stuff it should go over. You want it to break away when you hit something hard, immovable, but not at a small bump. I know that probably don’t help much but time mowing with it will teach you better than I can tell you… Hope that makes sense. Push on your drive belts with your fingers…if they deflect more that 1/2 inch or close thereby, tighten them. If you mow thru heavy hay and you hear the mower bog down a tad, tighten the belts a tad at a time until it zips thru heavy hay. Thick hay is usually no match for a drum mower, it shouldn’t even slow it down usually…unless your drive belts start slipping from being too loose. Hope this helps
Well I learned what a "tedders" are.
Glad you learned something, lol!
all the patents are expired on the allis roto baler..they were simple,cheap,and a little dangerous..make one..
Thanks but no thanks!
Why would you want tiny bales of Hay? Serious question..
On medium-heavy density bale setting, it’s equilivemt to 1.25 of a standard small square bale. Easier to stack, handle and feed. Horse owners love the size (2x2). 45-50# bale.
It's a baby bale!
On medium-heavy density setting, it’s equal to 1.25 of a standard small square bale.
Cute , 400 k
Thanks.
I agree with the oiler, I run 10-40 in mine also. The valve, I open mine to about the 4 o'clock spot and all the chains still have oil on them. I did the same thing as you, I opened up the oil and emptied that first tank after about five or six bales. This year I put my bale density to the tighter setting from the factory medium setting. Does make a tighter heavier bale. But, I think it might have induced some chain stretch because right at the end of making a bale I could hear the chain skipping on the sprockets a couple times. I opened those doors and found the chains to be looser than they should and needing adjustment. I have found that it likes the hay to be shorter than longer. I was forced to hold off on cutting my back field and it gets close to clogging itself up pulling in long strands of hay. Even going slow, itll literally pull it in from 2-3ft in front of the pick up tines. What size twine did you find? And i still need to get that tow bar setup like yours. Great video and God Bless to you and yours.
That sounds great! My baler picks up long stemmy hay no issues and doesn’t seem to cause any problems that I’ve noticed. Thicker and larger the windrows, slower you have to go or you’ll jam it up. I haven’t tested the new to me sisal twine yet so I don’t know how it’s gonna actually work, but all indications point that it should be great. I’m planning on using it for 2nd cut on our test plot hay soon and if it does great, I’ll share that info then. Don’t really wanna put it out there untested. Thanks for watching, appreciated!
thank you very much for the video great help
Thanks and glad it helps! And thanks for the good suggestion!
Very good video, similar to the ibx tx31. It's not exact, but very close. Congratulations on the rain! We had to take the back off to clean it out. What a job. Thanks, and a good reminder for those who have one.
Thanks Tom and Mrs Sally! There’s a few different models out there that’s a little different but lots similar. Then there a couple that’s quite different, but a lot of prep things can be applied anyhow. No easy on-off back cover is a bad design in that particular area of the balers, no two ways around it. Hope you guys have had a great 4th holiday!
Are you sure the bucket weighs more? My 62in. bucket with toothbar weighs 290lbs and 48in. 4k rated forks with headache mast weighs 340lbs. With 42in. forks, they're probably only 20-30lbs less. So if youre adding it just for weight it may not be helping much if at all. Pallet forks definitely are a game changer. They can even do some work that a grapple would be used for. Great video !
Ive obviously not weighed the bucket or forks on a scale but just from judging by sliding them around a bit on pallets, the bucket sure feels like it weighs much more. Sure appreciate the comment and watching! Thanks!
@@8thdaychronicles It surprised me that the forks weighed more, too. I do have a crane scale and verified it. My tractor is a branson 2515h which has a very strong front end loader, so the bucket is good build quality(pretty heavy).
@@Jtwizzle Thanks for that good info! I appreciate it much!
If you're wondering why you don't get much of a shock by standing while holding a blade of grass to the wire. Get on your knees, and put your feet in the air while touching the wire. Use a copper grounding wire that goes a minimum of four feet into the ground.
I’ll let you try that! LoL.
Here’s the thing looking from a Brits view, number one, the three point system never took off in America like it did in UK, only this last ten years has it been more adapted with the hobby farmer, mainstream farmers it has become more popular but hitch is still king there, now the drum mower, until these first came on the scene we used the sickle mower or reaper as we brits call them, needless to say, the sickle mower became stuffed in the hedge bottom asap, literally every grassland farmer in the uk bought their first drum mower, hooking it up to the three point was second nature for us as we adopted it very well, as far as the cutting length, no one complained, the trouble free mowing overran any thoughts on that, and….regowth was never a problem to this day 🙂
That’s awesome! Thanks for sharing that info!
We just finished our first cut yesterday because of too much rain. We are in SW PA. It’s always too much of a good thing I guess. God bless
Feast or famine, LoL. Hope you had a great 1st cut! Thanks a bundle!
@@8thdaychronicles biggest yield we ever had.
My 1950s sickle mower finally ate it while cutting hay last month. Can't find parts, so I went and bought a drum mower. Its a different brand but looks almost exactly the same. Thanks for posting this. I was worried I would have a tall learning curve with it, but this video helped fill in many knowledge gaps.
Hope you have great luck with the new drum mower! Appreciate the kind words, thanks for watching!
It's been a rough hay season here so far with the heat and inconsistent rain. There's only been one cutting of hay so far from what I've seen.
A lot of folks had a great 1st cut, due to all the spring rain. Subsequent cuts due to dry and hot conditions may not be so good.
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤
Thanks!
Here in N.W. California our rain shuts off every year in late spring, after this rain season's 70" +, so one cutting of hay, which I'm busy with now. There are areas in our fields with abundant ground moisture that may allow a second cutting now that we have our own equipment. I bought the hay package from Carver Equipment, but our acreage is basically too big for this mini-baler at >40, plus neighbors, but I wanted new and this was affordable. It's hard to justify a big investment in equipment we'll use one month a year.
All the best for your hay crop this year! Most small-scale hay equipment is, while still expensive, affordable IN COMPARISON to larger-scale equipment. Youre exactly right, sometimes $20k for just a baler is difficult to justify on a small farm.
I am in Brooksville, Kentucky area. We have had some dry, but this area has 3 days of rain coming. We haven't been able to finish the first cutting between the extreme heat and then periods of constant rain. I am praying for improvements in weather for your area.
@@stevenrodda6449 Prayers for good weather for your hay crops as well! We have some rain in the forecasts in a few days, let’s hope that happens! Thanks a bundle for watching! We appreciate you!
We were lucky, had rain two days after we cut hay and have had another on July 1. That bird was lucky, baked worm for lunch. We are frost seeding warm season grasses this winter if we can afford it. Seeds seem high for warm season grasses. Arkansas is always hot in summer, cool season grasses brown out early and often don't make two good cuttings. If we get two more rains, we will cut in August. Tell Susan we said Hi!
This was filmed about a week ago as of 7/3. We had a sprinkle of rain a couple days ago, not enough to even settle the dust. I understand totally about seeding. I checked on a 50# bag of Timothy seed about a month ago….$170. How did seed become so expensive? Redicilous. Susan says hi! Same to Mrs Sally, we say hello!
I am new to hay production, thank you for your videos and information. God bless you.
@@stevenrodda6449 thank you kindly! Happy you enjoy the videos and thanks for the nice comment! Best to you!
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤you make it look easy ❤❤
Thanks a lot!
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤smart idea on the blower❤❤
Thanks a bunch!
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤great information & IDEA ❤thank you
Thanks!
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤ God bless the farmers of this world ❤❤
Thanks!
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤ my first video I’ve watched ❤it was very informative ❤you have a lot of knowledge ❤I’m going to watch all the rest of videos ❤I will be asking some questions ❤
Thanks much! Appreciate the nice words!
could you make a video on the steps for the mini baler for use after sitting all winter. topping up oils and oiling chains etc what to check
I'll sure consider it! Thanks for watching!
I’m really happy for you that you didn’t lose that test field. A lot of hard work goes into it.
Thanks a bundle! Sweated like a pig in July sun raking all that hay back up the hill by hand.
Sir, what model # is that bailer? Also, since youve had that bailer a while now, would you recommend it as a good purchase still? Looking at buying one next week and I have it narrowed down to 3 different machines. IHI MRB855 net wrap. Farm Maxx. Ibex TX31. Opinions welcomed.
Howdy, thanks for watching! Our baler is a Farm Maxx FMRB-330. I still really like our little baler. Ive done a couple modifications such as the twine holder bucket, and the best mod...custom built a drawbar system for it.The Fam Maxx baler is built in India. The Ibex is, ah-hum, China built. Thats a personal opinion that I dont buy CCP China stuff if I can help it. The IHI balers are Japan built. I hear they are great machines.....just expensive in comparison. Personally I dont much like net wrapped hay. Messy removing. and much more expensive than twine. Just opinion, I prefer twine wrap. Your preferences may vary. If I ever bought another 2x2 baler it would be either the Farm Maxx (made by Redlands) or the IHI. If I just had the money to spare and it wasnt any issue, Id sure like to try the IHI. None of them have like local dealerships you can stop at to get it worked on and such. You gotta be a mechanically-minded person to work on most farm machinery....these balers are no different. Good luck!
@8thdaychronicles thank you Sir.
@@richardbennick3120 I re-read my reply and feel I should clarify a bit. The Ibex balers, from my understanding, are China built. However…I know folks that have them and report they are happy with their baler. Not wanting an Ibex due to where it’s built is a personal opinion. All I could ever find the IHI machine in is a net wrap model. Again, just personal preference, I prefer a twine wrap baler. Farm Maxx is a Redlands built baler from India. Unifarm Corp. is at least at my understanding, the importer of the Redlands/Ashlyn Corp machines from India and labels them as “Farm Maxx”. I know of zero USA-built small round balers. I wish there was but if they are, I’ve never found one. I don’t want to seem to bash on anyone with an Ibex baler. Again, I’ve heard good reports from some that have one. It’s just a personal opinion. Just clarification on my above reply.
It looks like you're back using the jute twine? I looked around online for some and it appears that its hard to find. Do you have a good supplier? And what size do you think it is equivalent to, like a 130 or a 90? I went through two rolls of that 190 on the medium wrap setting pretty darn fast last weekend.
190# is borderline too thick. just opinion. Thats all I could find for awhile. It works, just jumps off the worm gear pulley groove once every so often. Jute twine I can find is just too thin. No idea of knot strength, but its weak. No good supplier, have to order it online, and then its still hard to find occasionally. Its too weak anyhow....not buying any more of it. Just using up what I have left over, no need to waste it. I've found a new (new to me) sisal twine that I think is gonna work great, but havent tested it out yet, waiting on 2nd cutting..
I have found that one rain on isn’t bad. It’s the rain, drying, rain, drying that ruins it. Get it dried and baled, should be fine. We have also struggled with the weather this year. I have about 3 acres of first cut left to do. Thankfully, I got a guy that needs a couple hundred bales of mulch hay that’s going to buy it. Hopefully second cut goes better. God bless brother and good luck.
Thanks! Hope the rest of you season goes great!
Hello I received my enorossi RP4 rake three point hitch with no assembly instructions hardware bag was open . Not able to find anything on aszembly .could someone tell me where I can find information please. Thank you.
www.br-equipment.com/sites/default/files/downloads/RP%20UM%20rev.4%20ing.pdf Found a PDF of the manual for that rake pretty easily. If that link dont open, just do a Google search for Enrossi RP4 manual. It should pull up the link. Hope this helps.
Thank you so there is no assembly manual maybe I'm reading to much into it. I do have another question if you don't mind.I also bought FMD mower185 is just the wife and I.You think way to much for her and I to put together.Also bought spacers to raise disk would be easier to install now or do that Lime you did in segment sorry for all the stupid questions.
@@BertSchmidt-jt5go No such thing as a stupid question. If you dont know, thats how you find out. All I can tell you about putting the drum mower together is my experience, others may have had a very different experience. I had to recruit my son-in-law to help move the hitch section to line up with the gear box/drum section and get it lined up to bolt together. I couldnt move it myself AND line up the bolts. Your mileage may vary. I would not put on lift spacers until I cut hay with it once and judge the cutting height to personal preference. If too low of a cut for your preferences, get it up on SECURE jack stands and add 1-2 spacers at a time and test. If you have rough, bumpy fields, Ive heard many say raising the cut height very far produces a rough cut. My fields are pretty smooth (except for one, our "reclaimed" field is semi bumpy). We have 6 spacers installed. Performance on rougher fields may not be as good as on nice fields. You just gotta start with only 1-2 spacers and go up after testing if you would like a higher cut, and see the performance. It seems more folks never raise cut height than those that do with drum mowers. I personally prefer the higher stubble height for regrowth. YOUR mileage may vary. Hope this helps.
Thank you very much for helping us we are greatful you are out there. we think we got our baler together fmrb - 330 and going to try to thread it today with your segment till we get better. The arm in front on baler does not come up till u start bailing right? Or how does it come up to thread it. in the set up the guy just reached in there and pulled it up i do not want to break anything.