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I make videos when I feel passionate about something and can't find any good video on the subject. I tend to focus on tech, especially Apple. I currently don't allow ads, but that results in KZread not suggesting my videos like it does monetized ones. Although I personally dislike ads, I may need to enable them at some point simply to make my videos more discoverable. For now, you can enjoy my content Ad-free.
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Woohoo JDW is back! And with an hour long video! What a great day.
It's packed with meaty stuff, so be sure to expand the text description and grab the ZIP archive I mention in the video. Even if you don't have a ROM-inator, the content will be helpful when you use Mini vMac. And don't miss the Stuffit Deluxe 16 download either! Have fun!
Would this work on say an LC 475/Performa 476 Mac?
Just ordered a bunch of your Parts Cart so I can practice recapping all of my 800K and 1.44MB Apple Floppy drives!
Well, i am dissapointed. I was hoping I could make a long chime out of the first 90 seconds of thunderstruck.
Select the most magical 1.3 seconds out of that first 90 seconds and you're golden.
@@JDW- I guess that will have to do....
Thanks for the thorough and informative review. A+
Great to see you back! 😊
WOW-that was intense!!! As usual, you made a very thorough video on how to do an interesting mod. You definitely spent a lot of time preparing the support files, emulators, and disk images-I’ll grab those!
Yes, this video took me more than a month of intense work to create. A bit part of the process is TESTING. Testing, testing, and more testing. Consulting Steve C. and Rob B., and then doing more testing. Some things I thought were insurmountable problems, I ultimately was able to solve, and the solution is what I show in my video. Besides all that, I spent many hours putting together the software in the ZIP archive, which included writing instructions and also making sure every little thing works flawlessly, so no one using my ZIP archive will run into problems. And then of course, I had to write a script, film and edit. Making KZread videos is easy when you don't really care, but it's down right hard where you're meticulous. And you have come to learn that on your own channel. And on that note, I wish to commend you for your efforts, Mark! I look forward to seeing more of your own great content soon!
@@JDW- That was a TON of effort you put into that video-and we REALLY APPRECIATE IT James! That’s really time consuming too! Yes, decent videos DO take time! Thank you for the kind words re: my channel! I’ve been doing Lisa research and will be shooting my A Brief History of the Apple Lisa episode very soon!
Ah yes I remmeber SoundMaster.
Be sure to reliving that memory by expanding the text description and grabbing my Zip Archive. Sound Master v1.5 works great when booted into System 4.1 and Finder 5.3, which is a must for a Mac 512K. A Mac Plus can run System 6, so you can run newer versions of SoundMaster, but the operation is pretty much the same as v.1.5. The downside to v1.5 is that you need to create RAW audio files for it, akin to what the ROM-inator needs, and then you need to adjust the Type and Creator so SoundMaster will spot the files on your disk. Newer versions of SoundMaster can accept a wider variety of audio file formats. And of course, as mentioned in my video, System 6.0.4 and later will allow you to use Finder sounds, denoted by an "ƒ" character in the SoundMaster control panel.
Glad to see ya back on the video lines, JDW! Makes me wish I had a 512…but, there is a Plus that might just get the ROM-inator treatment. Great video on how to make the best of that upgrade. [aka JdM74]
Thanks. I know you're a man of details like me, so I consider that high praise. Be sure to check out the text description too. I tried to links to most of what I talked about in the video. I even threw in a link to my T-shirt. Thank you Javier Rivera of 8-bit Tees! 🙂
Awesome
Lots of great info, thanks JDW!
I am on a mission to revive a Macintosh IIsi I ordered on eBay but with no plans to use the rominator. Maybe one day. Also no worries about the long hiatus. :)
Thanks. IIsi, you say? Well, my other ROM SIMM video is perfect for you, because those "ROM-inator II" type SIMMs are compatible with your IIsi: kzread.info/dash/bejne/apmZusZpmLmofc4.html
Glad to see you back JDW! - signed Professor Lund
Thanks!
One more thing, you have been very instrumental in making my SE/30 a joy to upgrade and remembering my good times with the SE/30 in the early 90s.
It warms my heart to hear that, Frank. Thank you. Nostalgia is a big part of why I’m in this hobby and so enthusiastic about it.
Can't wait to see the power supply. I have an SE/30 that is giving me problems. I have to wiggle my power cord for the Mac to work, sometimes.
nice job 👍
Very detailed James - thanks! Out of interest does the CLI minipro (on Gitlab) work with the T48? I use it on my Mac a lot with my TL866..
Thank you very much for the tip! I was completely unaware of the "experimental" support for the T48. The last I had checked, there was zero support. So this is good news. I hope to give that a try later this evening. And for those of you reading this, the URL to the software being discussed here is this: gitlab.com/DavidGriffith/minipro/
Okay, I installed MiniPro, and here's my take on it. It's too difficult for the average user to use in the macOS Terminal. Even if someone is comfortable in the Terminal, you're reading and writing chips here, so I think it would make such work error prone. Besides, using the Terminal to get work done is hardly different from DOS in the 1980s. It's the command line. So I would not recommend my fellow Mac users to use MiniPro in the Terminal. Instead... I recommend everyone install the GUI interface, which is just a nicer face slapped onto MiniPro, which you still need to install via the Terminal. Download the GUI app here: github.com/DLXXV-Kelvin/MiniPro-GUI/blob/main/MiniPro%20GUI.zip This video takes you through setup of the GUI interface: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fpmBxqaDd6uxYrw.htmlsi=viujadKETbnUrAu9 There are scary "T48 support is experimental" warnings everywhere, which is a bother, but it can't be helped. I attached my T48 via USB to my late 2015 5K iMac at the office and was able to verify the programmer and chip operation. I didn't spend too much time with it, but everything I tried worked as expected. With that said, the official Windoze (proper spelling) app supported by the T48 manufacturer in China is easier overall to use than the GUI app on the Mac. But the upside is that we Mac users at least have a good option, especially when a household lacks a PC to use. So thank you for bringing the T48 compatibility to my attention. MiniPro can be a lifesaver for some!
I tried minipro on both macOS and Linux and could never get it to work properly. A lot of CLI tools make gross assumptions you know all of what’s to be known and their help isn’t much help. If there’s a guide [even notes] on proper use of minipro….lets make that into a guide somewhere…so we don’t have to resort to having a windoze PC around for our chip burning needs.
@@cool_tr6 Be sure to expand out my previous post and click the KZread link I provided. That fellow shows how to setup the GUI. I followed what he did and was able to get it to work. But even before that, I use a few commands in the Terminal to see if communication worked, and my T48 responded. The GUI app is just a more friend face on the command line. It's not as fully fleshed out as the dedicated Windoze (proper spelling) app is, but for Mac-only homes, it can come in handy. With that said, I only spent a half hour or so on it last night. I did not flash any chips either. Just confirmed communication was working, and I did a blank check on an ancient UV-erasable PIC I had in my drawer since the 1990s. The chip responded without issue.
So excited to see your return to KZread!
So many videos to come as well !
So happy to see you back ! :)
Still have HP 12c gold from 1984, still love the simplicity and I believe my batteries lasted 12 + years.
Thank you for making time to let me know your 12c Gold battery life. Twelve years is excellent! 👍
@JDW Armor Alley on Mac is actually based on Apple II's Rescue Raiders, not Choplifter. They both have you flying a helicopter, but Rescue Raiders/Armor Alley adds a 1D real time strategy component (in addition to your helicopter, you order equipment (tanks, etc) to send against the enemy)
What a great video! Congratulations!!! I think it is the best one on this topic.
What a great video! Congratulations!!! I think it is the best one on this topic.
my old iMac ( core 2 duo ) late 2009 my try upgrade HD 6970 but in Working on running sierra. Thank of help my upgrade gpu
I cannot understand if you had success or failure with that card in your iMac. But what I can say is that the 6970M, when flashed with iMac compatible firmware (not just an out-of-box card for Windows PCs), the card will function properly in a late 2009 Core 2 Duo iMac. But as was true in the case of my late 2009 Intel i7 iMac 27", so cutting of plastic is required to make the card physically fit. Heat and power consumption were not an issue for my model, but I am unsure about the Core 2 Duo. Regardless, using something like MacsFanControl is prudent to ensure fans run faster than normal to keep your machine cooler, in light of the fact it will run hotter than before.
Thanks
Thank you!
what size thermal pad is required for the GPU of a A1311 2010 21.5 imac?
I absolutely have no idea. I can’t even tell you what thermal pads are required for the card that is at the heart of my video series. And that is precisely why I recommendK5 Pro, which is a thermal pad replacement paste. The benefits of that or that you don’t need to measure anything. You just put it on and then any excess will squeeze out the sides. It works no differently than a normal thermal pad, just better because no measuring and sizing is required.
@@JDW- @JDW- Tnanks. I ended up going with the pads because of the import fee's associated with the K5/K4 Pro (it's not sold locally in South Africa). After some research I'v taken a chance and ordered 1.5mm pads. I'v also ordered a Quadro K1100M because it likely doesn't have the design flaw of the older ATI Radeon cards, despite having one or two issues with the OS.
@Ambience20 Global availability of K5 Pro is unfortunately hit and miss. Thank you for letting me know. Please feel free to report back with an update about how your 1.5mm thermal pads fit.
Well My Brother's SE30 is off getting recapped and I'm getting his Diimo 030 card redone as per this video. I've also seen your "Rom Fun" video, it has a 8Mb Caymac Rom and BMOW disk image. In short: this is all your fault :D I've also Got an HD40 SC coming for his old hard drive and will be attempting to follow your recap video for that....... Internal replaced with Blue SCSI. Fantastic videos/guides. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing your old Mac adventure story. I’m happy to take the blame because recapping and upgrades are what the hobby is all about. I’m actually working on a script for a new video right now where I revisit the original ROM-inator (for the 128K, 512K and Plus), showing people how to make and flash longer boot chimes. It’s all part of the fun in making these machines do incredible things that wasn’t possible back in the day. Of course, only geeks like this sort of thing, but like you, a wear my geekiness as a badge of honor! Best wishes!
Great video thank you! I wonder if you can help me make a decision on caps for my 1997 vehicle ECU. I am keeping this vehicle long term and am working on recapping the ECU for preventative maintenance. Thankfully the 3 original electrolytic caps have not leaked as others with the same make/year have already leaked and ruined the PCB. Anyways, the 3 caps as I said are classic electrolytic, looks like a mini AA battery. The specs are Nichicon, H9633, 105C, 25V, 220uF. Since it's for a car ECU located in the engine bay they should also be AEC-Q200 rated. Being that there's only 3, the cost isn't that big of a deal to me. I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for something I will never have to worry about for the rest of mt life. Can I replace those old electrolytic ones with solid polymer caps of the same voltage, temp and capacitance and expect it to work the same? Some say you have to get caps with like 1/2 the capacitance if switching to polymer from electrolytic because of lower ESR. I really want something that will far outlast the old ones which have lasted nearly 27 years. I know you said you aren't into the hybrid ones but so far it sounds like they are my best option and have better functionality compared to the classic electrolytic. I saw one that matches my dimensions and capacitance and has a higher temp rating, 145C at 2000H. Some say the lifetime doubles every 10C drop in operating temp. Would that mean these are rated at 32,000H at 105C? Is there a capacitor I could put in there to replace the old electrolytics and basically know I will never have to replace them again? The dimensions are ~8mm diameter and ~16mm tall or long and they are in a horizontal resting position, radial mount type. Please let me know what you think, thanks!
Maybe its better to ask about solid vs liquid capacitors. Can I switch to solid polymer or ceramic of the same voltage, capacitance, temp? I've found a couple solid polymers and 1 dipped ceramic (very expensive) but none of them are AEC-Q200 rated. Would it be better to get those or go with a liquid cap rated for AEC-Q200?
To eliminate need to swap them out again, you would need a solid electrolyte capacitor. “Hybrid Polymer” only better in terms of certain specifications relative to normal aluminum electrolytic capacitors. But the fact remains that Hybrids have a FLUID (not solid) electrolyte, and anything fluid will find its way out over time. Even if the fluid by some miracle never leaks, it can dry out. This is why the idea capacitor has a solid electrolyte which can never leak or dry out. And such a capacitor can be found on Mouser, matching your physical size criterion, as well as capacitance, voltage and high hour rating at 105°C: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chemi-Con/APSG250ELL221MHB5S?qs=nxZbHzLpdve2AQv2batcYQ%3D%3D Of course, my proposed replacement does not have AEC-Q200 certification. Many capacitors you look for in recapping applications don’t. Admittedly, you are the first person who has come along wanting to recap an automotive ECU. I have worked 30 years in the vehicle aftermarket, and I can say that for our aftermarket products, we almost never use capacitors with AEC-Q200 stress test certification to save cost, and we’ve never had a capacitor failure. However, we deal in vehicle security systems, not the ECU. The ECU is a critical vehicle component, so it is prudent to have the best capacitors possible. AEC-Q200 guarantees you a capacitor which has been tested in a way that comes close to matching the harsh environment of a vehicle. With that said, fluid-filled aluminum electrolytic capacitors are not great capacitors to begin with. Their ESR rises a surprising amount at 0°C and lower, and longevity centers on their fluid electrolyte not leaking or drying up. These are things that cannot be resolved by AEC-Q200 stress testing. In comparison, the solid electrolyte capacitor I linked for you above is superior in many ways to the stock capacitors in your ECU. They are simply not stress tested. Also, when considering hour-rating, you need to also consider that capacitor manufacturers don’t guarantee anything beyond 20 years or so, regardless of what the math calculates with respect to the hour-rating and the average temperature in your environment. For example, you can find some high-hour rating aluminum electrolytic capacitors rated at 125°C, and the math may suggest they have a 40-year life, but in reality, that fluid inside them limits their life, and as I said, the make of those parts doesn’t guarantee their operation beyond 20 years or so. My only concern about swapping out with a very low ESR type like the capacitor I linked for you is that I have no idea how they are used in your ECU. If there is a switching power supply on the ECU board and if those capacitors are critical components in that power supply, it could be the power supply requires a minimum ESR for the capacitors used. Probably not in the case of 200µF capacitors, but I cannot say for sure. What happens if the switching power supply controller requires capacitors with a minimum ESR but you use something lower than the minimum? Well, the output of that power supply would very likely become noisy at best, completely unstable at worst. But sans having a schematic, the only way to know would be to swap them out and test. But because an ECU is a critical car component, the best approach would be to put an oscilloscope on the voltage output to ensure it remains stable after recap. Meaning, you would need to see the noise on the output voltage before and after the recap to compare. And I’m guessing that you may not have a scope. This is the best advice I can give you, but I would strongly suggest you visit the EEVBlog forum and put your question to the engineers there because some will surely have automotive ECU design experience and can give you more experienced advice. Keep in mind though that recapping is not embraced by everyone. Some people think it’s a crazy idea. It is in some cases but not in others, so don’t be discouraged by people who claim you never need to recap anything. There are people like that. But it could be that posting in the EEVBlog forum will garner you more specific advice, especially in regard to AEC-Q200 certification for replacement capacitors you intend to use in an important vehicle component like an ECU.
@@JDW- Wow, thank you for taking so much time to help me! I am very interested in that polymer option you found, even though it doesn’t have the AEC-Q200 certification. I compared the stress test data from the datasheet with a liquid AEC-Q200 cap and they are fairly similar. The ECU I am working on is what I might call poorly designed for future maintenance. The circuit board isn’t even a circuit board, it’s like a giant flexible…ribbon cable? Which is adhered to a sheet of aluminum and bent over like a book. It was very hard to get open and has some minor damage just from that so I really don’t want to have to do it again. Most ECU’s are a typical metal box with a solid PCB screwed inside it. If it were a lot easier to open up I would be less concerned about putting liquid caps back in because I could just recap it every 15 years or so. Anyways. I am not very experienced with electronics, I’m your average diy. So I don’t know about the possibility of it having a switching power supply. (I also don’t have a scope or the knowledge of testing with one.) I wonder if I could get you a picture of the ECU where the 3 caps are located if you could tell me if it looks like it has what you were talking about or not? It may not be the best comparison, but there is a guy on youtube who replaced liquid caps with solid polymer in his ECU 4 years ago it seems he has had no problems. His was from a different make/year than mine though. If I do replace mine with the solid polymer I will be making some extra precautions for heat and humidity although I doubt there will be an issue. I couldn’t find a schematic of the ecu but I found a connector pinout which mentioned the voltage to the ecu is only 5v. I’m not sure if that tells us anything or not. I will likely check out the EEVblog as well. It will be a couple months before I do the recap but I’m getting my homework done ahead of time. Please let me know if a picture of the PCB would help decide if solid polymers will be a good idea or not Thanks again!
@wekeeptruckin it could be that only 5V enters your ECU but there may be a 5V to 3.3V step down converter on it. You could take a photo and post it to an online sharing service and try to post a link to that here, but it would need to be high enough resolution to see the part numbers on the chips to know if it’s a switching power supply. The entire point here is determine if there is indeed a switching power supply on the ECU and if so, what is the main controller chip part number, and then Google that part number so as to find a datasheet l to see what the input and output capacitor requirements are with regard to ESR (resistance of the capacitors). If there is no minimum ESR, then you have nothing to worry about when using very low ESR polymer capacitors.
@@JDW- Ok, I will look into the photo thing. I am a bit concerned about the humidity factor causing premature wear on the polymers. Do those need to breathe or could I coat them in silicone caulking or conformal coating to seal them off from humidity?
After Fixing a Mac 128K Logicboard and Analog board, I focus on the 400K Floppy drive. After Recap, lubrication and assembly. I could boot from it, initialize disks, copy files, and eject perfectly but I have a question regarding the behavior at power on without a Floppy on the drive. If I power the Mac 128K, the disk spins, but keep trying to eject but no floppy on the drive. If I put a floppy in, everything behaves normally. This is a Mac 128K with -A ROMS. The question is, normal behavior or not?
Thank you for your feedback. "Constantly trying to eject" is NOT normal behavior. As I mention at 12:44 though, mismatched ROMs and 400K drives will result only in a Sad Mac, not a constant eject problem. Most likely, one of the black plastic IR sensors is dirty or otherwise blocked. If you watch from 21:45, you will see me remove a plastic piece from the middle of one of those IR sensors (aka "optical sensors"). That moving plastic piece must be removed for inspection and cleaning. Also, that IR sensor near the front of the drive detects whether or not a disk is inserted. A different IR sensor pertains to the eject mechanism. I would suggest you inspect and clean all the IR sensors, then test again. If the problem is gone, you're done. If the problem is not solved, it could be anything from a jammed mechanical part that requires lubrication, to a fault on the circuit board. But when investigating problems like that, it's often helpful to have more than one vintage Mac in which to test, to ensure you can rule out issues possibly caused by the Mac itself. I don't think the Mac is causing the problem in your case. I am just trying to speculate "what ifs" right now, assuming your IR Sensor cleaning doesn't work. I suspect it will though as such has worked for me in the past.
@@JDW- Thanks for your reply, regarding the black Sensor, I cleaned the sensor and nothing is in the middle of it. The behavior is only when no disk is inserted. Any other Idea?
@@user-xp8yl5pk7w When you said there is "nothing in the middle of it," I assume you mean there is no dirt there, but if you mean there is no plastic piece there, it's a problem. Because as you can see in my video, there must be a moving piece of plastic in the middle part of that sensor. If you have no dirty and you also have the correct piece of plastic (which slides) in the middle of your sensor, and if you have indeed inspected and cleaned all the IR sensors, not just that one, then like I said in my previous reply, the problem could be related to something frozen up on the drive. Your opening post indicates you fully cleaned and lubed the drive, that would point to another problem. But those problems are rare. In the vast majority of cases, "constant ejection" problems pertain to the optical sensors. The other problems are problems indeed because they pertain to either the ejection motor or the circuit board itself. And that's why I said in my previous reply that having another Mac of the same type is useful, so you can try the drive in that other Mac to see if it has the same problem, and if it does, then you know the problem is absolutely on the drive, and the problem has nothing to do with the Mac at all.
@@JDW- Yes no dirt, sprint is working and the plastic arm is there moving perfectly. Maybe the Sensor is bad... The question will be if I can get a replacement, part. The one on the left must be the issue.
@@user-xp8yl5pk7w Your best option is to find a cheap or free junk 400K drive for the purpose of using its parts. Most likely, the junk drive is just mechanically frozen and has a good circuit board and sensors. In fact, if you had such a drive, you could swap the PCB to see if that made a change. If not, you could then resort to swapping only that one IR sensor. I do this sort of thing myself. I usually have working devices and then junk devices as spare parts. I know this isn’t the type of fast solution you are seeking, but I’m afraid that you’ve already tried cleaning the sensor and found that didn't work, and you’ve cleaned and lubed the drive itself, which is why the only explanation for the continued troubles must be either a bad sensor or something wrong on the circuit board.
Hey there, the mouser linked for the 512k says some stuff in the cart is back ordered, these still the right parts to get right? Also do you have a link for the RIFA capacitor? Thank you!!
Thank you for letting me know. I have updated the Mouser cart so there are no more backordered items. If your question about the RIFA pertains to the one on the Analog Board, that is contained in the Mouser Cart I provide in the text description under my Analog Board video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/gJtsqMGKhsrHhMY.html
@JDW- fantastic thank you!! I want to replace as many parts that should be replaced as I can but very new to understanding the compatible modern vs old caps and other components. These lists are a life saver. If you have any other that you'd suggest that would be supper helpful! Thank you again JDW-!!
Thank you for your kind words. You asked if I have any other capacitor lists, and the answer is that I do, depending on the configuration of your machine. For example, there are electrolytic capacitors inside floppy drives, and I have recapping videos about that, whether it be 400K, 800K, or 1.44MB. Floppy Drive Maintenance kzread.info/head/PLNZ4qjMn-GHqrhYQMnoam-60tCEMctXGp
@JDW- oh great to know! I have the Sony drives. There are a little strange and not those thin ones. I will check on the exact number and serial name. Great to know!
HP 50g is the best calculator ever made for engineers that can program.
I'd argue it's the best calculator ever made, even for technical people who can't program. Alas, most people have a Brain Cloud that prevents them from learning RPN. And yet, RPN is what great HP calculators are all about. Therein lies greatness!
no venden display para la hp 39gs?
Lamentablemente, HP no se ha mostrado entusiasmado con sus productos de calculadora desde hace mucho tiempo. Y, hasta donde yo sé, ningún proveedor externo se ha ofrecido nunca a ofrecer este tipo de piezas de repuesto.
Friends, I’m excited to report that Garrett’s Workshop has their amazing dual 8 MB ROM SIMM on sale as of July 2, 2024. The first batch is available on eBay at the following URL, with more to come soon. www.ebay.com/itm/256554602527
The Mouser baskets for this and the analog board saved me a ton of work. Those customer numbers were especially helpful and made recapping a breeze! Thank you so much for that!
Love your videos! Thanks for the great information! I'm fairly new to all this, how can you tell the polarity for the MLCC caps, or does it not have a polarity? I am finding conflicting information online, and the case itself doesn't seem to have any markings, and the board doesn't denote it either. I'm assuming the orientation doesn't matter, but I just want to be sure.
Thank you for your kind words. MLCC caps (aka ceramic capacitors) are not polarized. They work properly in either orientation.
@@JDW- Thanks for the quick response and helpful information! I really appreciate it!
hi mate what ssd drive u have mounted there? . i bought a 2010 imac cheap price and im uprading it but some hard drives dont have the sensor option.
I this also applied to imac that has black screen problem?
Sometimes, but not all the time. It could be that your backlight simply is not working, and to confirm that you need to power on the machine and then shine a flashlight into the screen. If you see something, the backlight is the problem. If you see nothing, it’s the graphics card.
@@JDW- do i need to also renew the thermal paste or not, when baking the GC?
@@Mikey_Official Absolutely positively REMOVE all the existing thermal paste BEFORE your bake! Then after the bake and after your card cools, you will need to apply new thermal paste. I recommend K5 Pro on the memory chips because it is a thermal pad replacement paste that can be used without need to measure anything. I recommend Arctic MX-4 paste on the GPU chip, not only because it has good thermal transfer, but because it has 8-year durability. Use 99% or 100% IPA to clean off the old paste. Yes, 70% will work, but it has a lot of water in it. 100% IPA has no water and is a more powerful cleaner, and it won't harm your PCB either.
@@JDW- how much does all of this gonna cost me, and can i just use a regular thermal paste on the chip and the gpu instead?
Does replacing all electrolyte capacitors with SOLID capacitors makes my CRT tv last another 30 years ?
If the replacements are properly chosen, in terms of the capacitors, the answer to your question is yes. But it could be that another component within your CRT TV might fail in the next 30 years. Specifically, the flyback transformer is often a point of failure.
I'm reading complaints about K5 Pro not being suitable for use over 1mm thickness. That it can 'boil" on high temps. Have you experienced this?
It seems that you are talking about something else other than graphics card applications because I read and reply to every comment under all of my videos that pertain to the Bake, and not a single person has reported anything like you have about K5 pro. I also swapped out the card for a 6970M in April 2020 and that machine is still in service today without any problems whatsoever. Remember, K5 pro is not intended for CPUs. And I didn’t use it on my GPU either. I used it for the VRAM chips. They don’t get nearly as hot as a CPU or GPU. For heatsinking VRAM chips it’s perfectly fine. If someone is trying to convince you that K5 pro is unsuitable even for a 1 mm thickness, then I would argue that thermal pads themselves aren’t suitable. That’s because K5 pro is a thermal pad replacement paste. So if those people who you read about who are complaining about K5 pro are trying to use it on things like a CPU and GPU then of course that is not suitable. That goes outside its intended purpose. And no, I’ve not heard of K5 pro boiling either, probably because it is a thermal pad replacement paste, not a CPU or GPU paste. For the application shown my videos on the video card bake, where I used K5 pro exclusively on the VRAM chips, it’s perfectly usable, and I have the years of experience to prove it. So I still highly recommend K5 pro regardless of what somebody out there on the Internet has said about it. Nobody pays me to say what I’m telling you now. I’m simply giving you my experienced opinion about a product that I myself have confidence in, and which I’ve seen others use with success too. By the way, I know that you’re not complaining about my videos or K5 pro. You are merely reporting to me things you have heard on the Internet and you’re asking my opinion on it. And I’ve given that to you. So please don’t misinterpret my words as being directed at you. I have come across many people who claim that the Bake itself is bad, but those people don’t know what they’re talking about. And again, I and countless other people have experienced to prove it. If you go through all of my Bake videos and count the number of comments you’ll see just how many people have tried it was success. And it does last a surprisingly long period of time too. So I think most people can proceed with the Bake in confidence and use the pastes that I recommend because I’m not just recommending something that I have not use myself. Many other people have been using them too with success. That matters far more than any number of expert opinions you may have heard out there. Because at the end of the day, what is an “expert opinion“? I myself feel it is not simple an opinion from people who merely sound to know what they’re talking about, but an opinion from people who are experienced in using the paste for many years in an application that I’ve been talking about. When use it properly,K5 pro works well. And it lasts a good number of years too. Below is the video where I changed my graphics card to a 6970M, and I replaced it at that time, using K5 pro on the VRAM chips. AMD 6970M upgrade for 2009 iMac 27" [Video Card] kzread.info/dash/bejne/a5iE1apqqqy3fdY.html
Thanks for your thorough reply (and great videos!) I ended up ordering some K5 Pro and will do the bake. I read a discussion between users and the manufacturer of the paste on Reddit, that's my source.
Thank you for replying back and letting me know about the source of your information. I honestly think you’ll be happy with the K5 Pro paste. And as far as I know, it’s still the “paste” substitute for thermal pads. And the reason I use K5 Pro is because it’s extremely difficult to measure the exact gap between the top of those the VRAM chips and the heatsink. A paste eliminates any worry about getting the wrong thickness of a thermal pad, but you cannot use regular thermal paste to do that. You need something like K5 Pro which is intended to be used in situations where a greater thickness is required and that thickness needs to be maintained over time. So long as you don’t use it on very hot chips like a GPU or CPU, it should work fine, just as it has been working fine on my 6970M graphics card VRAM chips since April 2020.
@@JDW- Just reporting back to say I did the bake and my 2010 imac is again up and running. Thanks for helping out!
@einargoksyrasen7636 that’s wonderful to hear. Thank you for making time to let me know your success! Best wishes.
Congrats on your build. Great work going through the system and refurbishing everything. Another SE lives.
Not to be a jerk as I’m really enjoying watching this video series but the time with heat on component makes me cringe. Guess I’m just used to running flux first then in and out. Ok, I just got to a point where you used flux first. Still fun to watch just my 3M/Pace bench experience kicks in. We didn’t use flux core, in sure that’s part of the deal.
Not sure what you mean when you say "time with heat on component." I can only assume you were saying I applied heat for a longer period of time than you would. Even so, I can say that the end result was good. The board worked the very first time I flipped on the power switch. Nothing was damaged by heat. No scotch marks either. However, removing the chips with hot air left me rather unsettled. I now have a Hakko FR-301. That would have made the chip desoldering job much easier, I think. Hot air can warp chips, and even though I have much experience with it, it still worries me more than a soldering iron or desoldering gun.
Thank you for this. While I don’t have an SE, just soldering again looks like fun. I hope Kai is doing better, I didn’t follow the go fund me link yet but hope he is well.
If you enjoy soldering, this is certainly a fantastic project for that. Also, Kai is still active on the Tinker Different forum, and you can interact with him publicly or privately there if you like.
Missed out on this but with your speedy bend tool, it brought me to looking at rebuilding an SE. Don't have one but I'll look into it. I was gonna be happy with a Trash can but I'll review and see about going back further. Thank you again for good material.
Well, thank you for checking out this video and commenting. I actually followed up with the winner, but he still hasn't started on the SE Reloaded Kit he won yet. I don't mean to be harsh, but I must admit that I was disappointed in that, especially because I did the Giveaway in the first place to spread awareness of the SE Reloaded project. I wanted that awareness to spread so more people would give it a try. Anyway, that's why I've not done another giveaway since. I tried to make it fair, and it was. But should I do another in the future, I believe I'll be a bit more selective. Picking folks who will do the projects rather than shelve them is a key consideration for me. When we actively use, repair and work on our vintage stuff, I think the hobby has meaning. But when we merely acquire and closet the stuff, letting it collect dust, we become little more than hoarders. Again, I don't mean to be too down on the winner, and hopefully he embarks on the project soon. I just want to encourage folks to remain active in the hobby, and when the time comes that is no longer possible, we ought to give or sell the stuff back to the community who will love and appreciate it. I therefore am excited to hear about your own interest in rebuilding an SE. I applaud your efforts and hope to hear more about your progress. Please consider joining us on TinkerDifferent, if you're not on there already: tinkerdifferent.com/forums/compact-macs.34/
Good find and great for those mounting a lot of components. I was trying to find small radio lead pliers which I found on Amazon after finding your video. Just need to j hook some leads and stuff for a Heathkit style guitar amp kit. I miss the old days of Heathkit and Radio Shack. Miss my Navy Electronics days as well. Have fun on the Mac project. I didn't dive into the Mac world until 2017, don't miss the alternatives even if work still mandates something else. Enjoy Japan, stationed there 92-96 and I miss it. Need to go again.
With the Yen being 156 to US$1 right now, you absolutely should come to Japan soon. Your Dollars have more buying power now than they have in the last 38 years. It was about 1986 when the Yen was this weak. There's never been a better time to visit Japan. But I am not sure how long the weak Yen will last. Depends on how quickly they increase bank rates.
Great video, sir! I found it extremely helpful🤓
So FRAM cards don't seem to exist anymore - is the choice of an FRAM card solely because of the lack of battery, or is it required for metakernel?
I prefer FRAM cards solely for the lack of battery, and It’s terribly unfortunate no one is still offering them today. At some point you will grow wary of replacing the battery. And it could be you may simply forget about it, and the battery will be left in there long after it is dead and then it will possibly leak. So not having a battery in the card is a big deal. It has nothing at all to do with MetaKernel.
Thank you for putting a truly deep dive 28 min. long review video!. It is obvious the experience you have and key points mentioned :) Hint alert to all potential buyers for Matias keyboards = NEVER again!
Does anybody know where to find replacement keys for the keyboard? THANKS !!!!
I haven’t checked, but I would assume either direct from Matias or perhaps on AliExpress.
@@JDW- Thanks for your answer. As crazy as it might sound, there is nothing out there. Never again with Matias products.
@@chrisd997 Senior management at Matias should resign in shame for having put out such horrible keys. They sold known junk to us all, and even at the time when you could get replacement keys, the printing on them came off just as fast as it did with the original keys. It's really quite unbelievable.
@@JDW- I couldn't have describe it better than you just did!. Selling keyboards is their business but they "forget" to provide support on replacement keys. Something also funny is their Site, while searching for the holy grail (keys replacement) I checked their Site and all I can say it looks like it stuck into 2000s LOL.
@@chrisd997 Their website is basically a museum: matias.ca Modern websites morph their shape based on the window width or the screensize of the device you are using, but old websites like Matias are fixed in size. The fact they refuse to spend a little money to update their site only further explains the broken mentality in upper management at Matias. Their "leadership" hasn't the faintest idea what they're doing.