Bleeping Fast Motorsports
Bleeping Fast Motorsports
Bleeping Fast Motorsports is an umbrella name for the expansion of our brand. We are going to be adding some more general automotive content soon.
Failed Contraception Racing is the endurance racing team. We previously raced a 2002 Ford Crown Victoria P71 in series such as Lucky Dog and the 24 Hours of Lemons. Our newest car is a 2001 Pontiac Firebird Formula .
This channel is a way for me to share technical information, how to's as well as our cars, their builds and our race experiences.
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Great Video and I look forward to seeing the final product. I have to go through this same process, however my rust is more severe and the 8" lift isn't going to help lol. Thanks for Posting!
@@BoNewberry I should be able to get back to it before summer ends. It's race season so a lot of focus gets put there. :)
One more question. Did you install your Radiator straight up or did you keep it at the factory location?
So this is another unique one with this car. The drivetrain and some parts came out of a Crown Victoria I LS swapped. The radiator was one of those parts. It's an aftermarket aluminum radiator. The width worked for the Fbody but it was too tall. So I leaned it back like the stock ones are.
Forgot to mention, I hope you sanded or glass blasted those spindles or at least sand paper them as good as possible and painted them with a good brake caliper paint. Anyway I'm sure you did. Is there any video of this car in action?
Actually I did not paint them. During that build phase it was a bit of a rush just trying to get it ready for its first race. No big deal though, they were cleaned up at least and will eventually get painted. I'm hoping to have some good footage of the car after our next race in July.
Thanks for chiming in Michael!
Do you know where I can purchase the hub adapters?
I got mine from a guy on Facebook in the Fbody Autocross/Track group. His name is Michael Gissi ( facebook.com/share/gCSuP9PK6H3tTW6F/?mibextid=qi2Omg ).I don't know if he still makes them but he said he has a few sets leftover still. The other option is the Detroit Speed ones. Those retain the wheel speed sensors but I believe they use a much more expensive hub.
Howdy, I am the maker of these and the adapters are $430 shipped with hardware (hubs not included). The benefit of the C7 version is that the hubs themselves are about $100 per side vs. $450 for C5 version and allegedly use the same bearing. I have about 30 track days on mine and have yet to find any slop. The only downside is losing ABS, but "ice mode" will kill you anyway so it's in your best interest to disable it and learn how to threshold brake.
I would be glad to purchase them from you. How do I contact you to purchase them?
Are they really REAL X-Tracker Hubs or are they SKF Replacement C7 Stingray Corvette Hubs? I just ordered the Pricey Detroit Speed SKF X-Tracker Hubs that have the ABS Adapters. Either way, I wanted to watch this video to see how you Re-pin the ABS Wires using the included connectors to adapt to the 4th Generation F-Body ABS wiring or wire harness. I guess you are ditching the ABS since your 4th Gen is pretty much a Race Car now. Still though if you have any advice regarding the ABS Connectors, you have my attention. Thanks.
If I remember correctly (I could be wrong here) the Detroit Speed kit uses a C5 Vette hub. The adapter I use can use the C7 Vette hub which is a bit more robust and a lot less expensive than the C5 hub. The x tracker hub is made by SKF in either case (Detroit Speed website even specifies an SKF hub). As far as the speed sensor wiring, I couldn't say there. Like you said, I ditched it all together and am running manual brakes with dual master cylinders. So mine is completely different from stock. There's several other KZread videos out there that cover it though I think. Detroit Speed even has a video on their kit if you haven't watched that one yet.
For C7s, all of the OE hubs are technically X-trackers and are made by SKF. You can order the X-tracker branded SKF BR931002 C7 hub, pay $1 more on Rock Auto for it and it will be the same part as the AC Delco FW412 in a different box. The X or non X-tracker distinction only really applies for C5s and C6s. Like mentioned before, these are non ABS adapters since the C7 uses a different kind of ABS sensor that isn't compatible with our stuff. 4th gen ABS sucks anyway and ice mode is real and will kill you, so it's in your best interest to ditch it anyway.
@@JunkRacecars Thanks for replying, I like how you call it ice mode... Cracked me up. I would gladly get rid of the abs and save a little weight but the 97 Z28 (That's getting a 383 LT4 engine swap) is in near mint condition and I'm trying my best to keep it more street then race. That's why I went with the pricey Detroit Speed X-Tracker Hubs. Man they are a thing of beauty to look at by the way. I'm also doing caddy brakes but it's the CTS-V calipers with Baer Eradispeed 2 piece C6 Z06 brake rotors. At first I only wanted the X-Tracker Hubs to fight Caliper Piston Knock Back not even knowing that the stock hubs are fragile. Anyway nice to know I'm killing 2 weaknesses with 1 stone with the X-Tracker Hubs.
@@JunkRacecars They have a install video but it's for a C4 Corvette (LT1) and the ABS is a plug and play connection. But for the F-Body, you have to disconnect the pins out of the factory ABS Pigtail and stick them into the connector that Detroit Speed includes in there kit. I did see other videos on how to re-pin wiring connectors for other cars and it doesn't look hard.
We all do this sometimes 😂
I just happen to be a regular at it. Lol
Aye bro hold your head high, u do a much nicer job than some of the LS swaps I’ve seen where the wiring is lookin like spaghetti thrown around the engine bay 😂
Thank you, I appreciate that!
I'm one of those idiots! This is pretty cool to see since I was already downtown.
Despite our breakdowns, it was such a fun race. Looking forward to it again in '24.
What kind of patch did you use to seal over the hole? Did you weld first and patch over?
I welded all holes shut and ground them flat. I'm going to JB weld them also to fill any pin holes.
What offset did you go with ?
That info is mentioned in the video, but those are a 12mm offset.
Great video! I have some large, but not very deep dents in my roof. With the liner off, is that the outer layer of metal that you're looking at from the inside? Or are there two layers of sheet metal? Im hoping i can take the liner off and push the dents out from the inside.
That is correct, it is the outer layer of sheet metal. So you have a single layer "skin" that is supported by those internal cross braces. So you will be able to access the dents from inside. I will likely respray my roof with a tintable Raptor liner. This will help hide any body work imperfections. Plus it's a roof in an Excursion. So unless you are 7ft tall you won't see it. 😂
@@bleepingfastmotorsports that's great info, thanks! I've reached out to a few body shops and paintless dent repair guys, and none of them will touch my excursion because it's over 20 years old and roof paint isn't perfect. I'm like, I know.... I need to fix the dent so I can fix the paint lol I've also been considering putting a layer of line-x or similar on top. These X roofs are notoriously bad, so it would be good to have some extra protection after all the work I'll be putting in. I'll be following you along your journey. It took me hours of searching for information on how to do the work you're doing and came up empty handed. Your timing on getting these videos out was perfect. Appreciate you taking the time to get this project online!
@@UpsetOctopus I appreciate the comments. Once it stops raining here I can get back to the roof and finish it up. I'm going to have to pull the windshield out though. The top of the windshield seal is leaking horribly.
@@bleepingfastmotorsports I'll keep an eye out for the next video. I fortunately haven't had any leaks yet, but there is quite a bit of cracking on the roof now and rust is starting to form. I think i'm going to need sand down all that rust just like you're doing. Are you planning to paint yourself after removing all the rust?
Yes, I finally bought a decent compressor and a cheap ($20) spray gun from Harbor Freight. I'll do an epoxy primer first and then do Raptor liner on top of that.
Is it your understanding that the windshield leaking was common on Excursions? Is it bc there 20+ years old and/or there was some defective design? I ask bc I live in Florida and although it’s dry season we get rain and on Monday morning we had a very hard rain and afterwards my truck wouldn’t start. It’s frustrating because I had a new windshield installed and sealed in January.
I know it's not uncommon for these to have leaks in various areas, but I couldn't say whether it's a design issue or an age issue. Most leaks appear (to me at least) age related since they seem to be at seals, windshields and seams. If you had a windshield replaced due to the old one leaking there is the possibility that there was a rust hole that was covered back up (but not necessarily sealed) by the urethane sealant during install. Not saying that's the issue but it wouldn't be the first time.
Thanks for the video. After removing the radio, aren't there two screws to be removed from the top of that opening?
Not that I recall, at least mine didn't. Perhaps on different years?
Umi cromoly?
It's not, it's mild dom. I think the reasoning is that the mild steel resists stress cracking better and is much easier to repair. www.umiperformance.com/home/product/1998-2002-gm-f-body-k-member-ls1-road-race-version/
Where did you get the gauge that plugs into the obd2 port from
Picked it up from Amazon. So far so good. I read lots of reviews since there are so many different ones available. Pay attention as some will say they only work on certain year cars. Also, a lot of them will only show metric units (Celsius, kph, etc). wiiyii Car HUD Head Up Display P6, OBD+GPS Smart Gauge, Works Great for Most Cars a.co/d/9c3Bq87
These don’t have a specific side they go on correct? You can put either and either side
Correct, they can be mounted on either side. Just make sure the letters are at the top when installing.
2022
That HP is going to be a big advantage at Road America. See ya there!
Can't wait!
Part number would be awesome!!
Dorman part # 600-402 it's about $35 on Amazon. The Ford part is about $120.
AAh yes the good ol "Slightly flat" Tyres lol
Why these over the ict billet ? Just price ? Great video btw
For me it was price and weight. It's a track car. So anywhere I can save weight I try to.
Trailer vomits in your garage. That's a very strange way of putting it.
.......but is it wrong? Haha
Thanks dude 🫶
This is outright cheating! There is no place in budget endurance racing for writing things down and making labels. What’s next.. checking tire pressure and fluid levels? We’re watching you Bucko!
Well if past races are any indicator, then you won't have to watch very long. Lol
Subbed
Getting there!!!! 11 days is really cutting it close! Lol 🤞🏼
Is there any other way? Lol
Thanks for the vid! For anyone wondering, the change in track width is 3/8" per side. All that's really needed to account for this is to use longer bolts and spacers for mounting the calipers.
Thanks for clearing that up!
Hey it’s AJ. We feel your pain. We wound up using CAD Cam and some fancy laser beams to make our cross member.
Oooohhhhhhh.........lasers! Lucky, I have a grinder and a welder. Haha
Not finished watching but scale appears to be in kilograms not pounds. Maybe you're not so weak after all.
Oh man, I can't believe I missed that. Good eye, I knew something wasn't right. Lol
Very cool. Too bad you in the mid west I just got a 99 WS6 with lots of missing parts I would try to get off of you.
Nice, I have always loved these cars. What are your plans for yours?
I got an LQ9 for it, I just got a shell, I hope it wont take too long to build.
@@8t8GTA There's lots of good f-body groups on Facebook where you can buy parts if you haven't looked there yet.
one thought, if that is part of the ignition or always hot there could have been a buy here pay here style immobilizer or tracker hidden in the dash. im not a mechanic so i dont know if thats a feasible spot but its just the first thought i had.
That's a good thought. If that was the case though it still makes no sense that they didn't just put it back together with a single butt connector. I'd love to hear the thought process on stuff like this from previous owners. Haha
They look pretty high quality. Any leaks?
I didn't have any leaks with them. I used remflex gaskets. To be fair, they only saw about 12 hours of use on track.
Thanks for the video I’m going get some astros
I set one against my new track car (not a Crown Vic) and they look awesome on that too. It's a great looking wheel.
Great video. Straight to the point!
That's easy , fyi if you have any extra horsepower u have to pin the pully to the crankshaft . Take my advice it will spin the pully and ruin the hormonic pully inside diameter. God bless yall real good.
Thanks! I will be switching out balancers on it. Since it was completely stock I wasn't too worried about pinning it. I for sure will if I do a cam though. The install is an easy task, but there are budding mechanics and such that don't know how to do some of this stuff. I just try to help some of those people out with these videos
I know you probably won't drive this car regularly but I put my sway bar end links the other way around so the threads won't be exposed to the elements and rust those threads up as quickly. Nice LS / Chevy motor you got on there.
Thank you!. Great point on the direction of the end link bolts. You are right, this car is never going to see salty roads again. For those that do though it's little details like that which makes maintenance later on easier.
dude, i want to do this so bad !!!
I see the new project isn't a vic?? or shall we see? and if no more vic, part out? :D
Correct, the new project is not a Vic. All will be revealed soon. ;)
what are the specs on the wheels?
Here's the video that covers the specs: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fYWi07qzgrS5dqw.html
@@bleepingfastmotorsports thank you kind sir
@@UpNorthCatsFan no problem! They look great on Crown Vics.
awesome car!!!
The owner did a good job of having it prepped for the race.
Looking great guys! (It’s AJ Jaxin).
(I subscribed with both accounts for you.)
Thank you sir! It's life was short lived, but we will build again.
Amazing build and quality as always.. Car is looking mean with those tires and wheels!!!
Thanks, I really appreciate it. Lots to do before the race in a month!
@@bleepingfastmotorsports I also love the color what paint did you use?? Also, shocked you don't get more views!!!
@@FrankWhiteMH Thanks! We saw a Jeep at SEMA with a very similar color and loved it. This is just Rust-Oleum 2X in a color called "seaside". I went with the satin finish but it's also available in gloss.
@@bleepingfastmotorsports I figured it was a rusto color, good to know it comes in gloss :D
When do we see part 2
Hopefully this summer. Track car build has been taking all of my free time.
Where did you get those plates that your bolting in where the seats latch in
Those are actually from an Expedition (a 2010 I think). They are the factory mount plates for the Expedition seats. They just unbolt from the floor. I got mine from a junkyard.
Very interested to see how that turns out. I'm looking for a vic right now. I have a 6.0 and a 4L80 that I'm planning for it.... and I'm undecided on tire and wheel sizes. My friend has 20s on his and it looks pretty darn good but, I want a bit more sidewall...
Tire and wheel size wheel be dictated by the year of the Vic. The older pre '03 cars like mine like offset closer to 0. The '03+ cars have a different suspension up front and rear shocks further out. So wheel offsets are more in the +30 range. I should have a video early next week for the new wheel fitment.
I realized I never installed the front sway bar links correctly. Thanks for making note if that. I just bought cheap sway bar links beacuse I was confused.
This is exactly why I do this. I was confused a bit too when I went to install it because the links were different. After a few messages with ADTR the light bulb came on. Haha Glad the video helped!
😴 P-R-O-M-O-S-M!!!
Not sure what this means?
Looks like a fun project. I’m modifying an 03 marauder right now but nothing like this. Interesting video and I will be following your progress
I appreciate it. It's great fun on the track fixing it up with Miatas and 3 series Bimmers.
Can u pie cut the duct to aim it to the outside and go around everything ?
This should end up running right under the frame rail as it is. Then I'll have easy options for mounting the duct hose.