When I started keeping honeybees in 2012, even after taking a beginning beekeeping class through a local bee association, I realized that there was an overwhelming amount of conflicting information available, especially on the internet. So I began a search for bee keepers with years and years of experience. I was looking for the Old Timers (some were actually quite young) who seemed to really understand bees.
I have found quite a few people who seemed to have very good sense about how to keep bees and a true willingness to share what they have learned. My objective is to capture their insights on video and then give my loving and talented wife, a professional photographer and videographer, an opportunity to turn my videos into something you might actually enjoy. One of the most important facts I learned is that regarding bees, everything is local. What works in Virginia may not work in Texas or Vermont. . . . I hope we have a positive impact on your beekeeping experience.
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What about cider vinegar?
Para k usa eso
Is there any chance to get the use of the calendar spreadsheet. It has a few more things than what I have. Thx
I use hit hives for varroa mite control
Sir can i get one
This is not fondant!!
I would like a copy of your spreadsheet. Thanks for doing this video!
Any chance for a link to spreadsheet
Thanks for a clear & calm demo! Just one additional suggestion, which is that dishwashing soaps today have additives in them as well, touted as ”degreasing,” “longer lasting,” “scented,” etc. and many of these additives aren’t necessarily good for your garden. So now I use a true soap, like Dr. Bronner’s. Works fine for a soapy water solution for garden & yard use from offing aggressive bees to spraying plants, without the ammonia, etc.
You are wrong about the Demaree method. Existing hives are well suited to the Demaree method
Is that soft, medium, or hard microcrystalline wax? (Usually designated by drop point or approx melting temp) And why the blend of 80% paraffin? (Maybe just because paraffin is cheaper or does it reduce viscosity so it can soak in better? I just can't think of any improvement that would come from paraffin vs MC.) I'm on the west coast so your service is not availible to me.
Are you still sharing your spreadsheet?
Hi Is there any chance I could get the spreadsheet or a link to download it. Thanks Rob
How can I get the spreadsheet?
Is it possible to get the dememtions for these 4 frame nucs
Just ran across this. Very well done! Is there still a way to get the Spreadsheet? Thanks!
❤️😀👍Bravo za vas video
This presentation was SO well done! I have been waiting a long time for this info. Thx!
This is not fondant!
Michael Palmer has been keeping bees successfully for decades and is considered one of the best in the business. You can learn a lot from him and note he is telling you what he does, not how you should do it.
Parks, Thanks for the great presentation. I am a mostly blind beekeeper across the river in Kensington, MD. I appreciated the explanation of the correct use of the openings on the board. Is there a way that I can get a copy of your spreed sheet? Thanks Keith
Your explanation is way too long and…
Can i get a copy of your spreadsheet please?? Thank you
Hey Mr Talley, I'd love to get a copy of your spreadsheet.
Is this spreadsheet published somewhere so I can utilize it? Thank you.
Thank you for video. Best greetings from beekeepers in Ukraine!😮😮😊😊😊😮😮
I have a half dozen or so mature bee bee trees. Theyll bloom about a couple weeks at best. Vitex Negundo will out perform them at the same time they bloom. Vitex Negundo will bloom all summer until frost. The bee bee tree probably gets its name because after its short bloom cycle it produces lots of clusters of bee bee sized dark seeds. Ive had them 20 years and during their short bloom cycle other relatives are blooming at the same time, sumac, devils walking stick, Hercules Club, and a few others. Bee bee tree is over rated.
If someone decided to do the warm side beekeeping then the snellgrove board would have to be changed where the entranced are. Terrific presentation. I used to use them. Then they began to age and got expensive. I built a few but never really used them. I'll be going back to them this year.
Greetings and salutations! With pride swelling in my breast i will command a thousand angels to sound their trumpets in your honor! Kettle drums beating and cymbals clashing will announce my arrival.....the bees will sting the faces of your enemies and their children a hundred fold and four days. REJOICE!! REJOICE!!
Thank you for doing the right thing.
This is a stupid thing to do. Just put in a new queen. Killing the whole hive will ruin all the equipment. Hive beetles will start breeding in the dead hive feeding on the dead brood. Wax moths will destroy all the wooden ware. There have been ill tempered queen bees ruling hives since time began and its usually because she has something wrong with her body and suddenly not laying well causing all casts of bees to lose their current nursery jobs and switch to becoming guard bees. Just requeen. Ive been at this 58 years too bad i couldn't do it for you. Now look what youve done. Youve Bred hive beetles and wax moths to harm neighbors
It's about keeping the genetics calm and not spreading the nasty genetics.
I'm still mystified by the double nuc, but the point you make about shared heat from the 2 clusters has me thinking
I'm still afraid to hurt them just like my kids when first born. I didn't want to hold them I was afraid I'd hurt them.
In canda our hives are withered as a group of fore 2 facing east 2 west and slid together then wrapped in a r20 wrap and r2o cover . 2 boxes need to weigh 200lbs before they are wrapped so they have enough stores for 6 months of winter which gets to -40 for a few weeks
Thank you very nice presentation
I started beekeeping last year and got stung only once as a kid by a hornet. I swelled up like a balloon and since starting this I've been stung hundreds of times and barely a red mark depending on area of being stung. Just the other day I got stung like 25 time around my ankle (taking honey off the hive) the next day I had a slight limp (sore to touch) and mild swelling that's it. Since started beekeeping I always have an Eppi pen handy for people that might be allergic though. I have heard that some beekeepers after a time develop an allergy to them hmmm
Homeopathy, read up on Samuel Hahnemann
Wondering why they never put them on top of the beehives
I drowned my whole hive last night it was extremely aggressive so the lot had to go. I was told to just re queen the hive but I wasn’t taking any chances as I keep bee hives in my garden with neighbours surrounding so only choice in my eyes kill the lot. I just put a mesh crown board over the top closed the entrance hole and blasted the hose up and down the spaces between the frames and filled the hive with water to the top. Job done no more horrible bees 👌🏽
Can I still get a spreadsheet?
Could I just use the snelgrove board without the queen excluder? I save the honey for the bees, I need the bees for my garden and orchard.
What are the benefits using the queen excluder?
Would like a copy of the spreadsheet. Thanks for the great explanation.
Hmm I live in Wisconsin! The hardest place other than Alaska to keep bees alive over winter. I don’t baby sit my bees . I have 35 years of surviving bee hives. Which I also don’t treat them either and they don’t ever have any diseases or mites. It’s all a scam to make your bees weaker and cost you more to raise them than it’s worth. Leaving the other countries to supply honey and all the other products that bees produce.
Is this method used to merge two strong hives? then remove one of his Queens, to get more honey?
Parks, this video is awesome! Great information, sir!
Where can I get the time line chart?
The ' warm ' way of the hive is when the frames are parallels to the front side of the hive where the entrance is. If there is cold air coming from the entrance will be ' stopped' by the first frame which is just in front of the entrance. and the colony is placed on the frames behind the first one. Thus the first frame plays as an barrier against the cold air. On the ' cold position' the frames are placed perpendicular to the front side of the hive and the spaces in between the frames are directly in front of the entrance ( cold air) .
Good explanation
Couldn't you just put a double screen board with a spacer like is used for feeding with a hole drilled as an entrance facing the opposite of the original entrance? It seems that the foragers would leave from the new entrance, return to the old entrance, and the split would be completed except for eventually moving the top colony.