Here we will show you step-by-step how to perform basic motorcycle services. Including the tools required to do the job and some issues you may incur during the service.
@@nickrider5220 your thanks is much appreciated. Even tho I haven't posted in years, I still respond to everyone I can. The video will forever be relevant as long as there are Gen4 ZX10's still on the road. Glad to be of service! Ride safe!
@dt351011 күн бұрын
You’re great thanks saved my bacon .
@TheMotorcycleBoss11 күн бұрын
Glad I could help!
@freddy319012 күн бұрын
When my bike was hot.. I start my 1300 while in the prime cycle at the beginning... and it works every time
@derekdicks989013 күн бұрын
Where is the description? I need part number so I can order all the parts to redo my forks.. Thanks
@kushpaladin13 күн бұрын
hm not the issue for me. mine only recently started squeaking but not in a normal way. it squeaks only 1-30 mph and will stop if i go faster. also stops momentarily if i apply front brake
@TheMotorcycleBoss2 күн бұрын
That's a weird one. You figure out the issue?
@HEEZSNOW17 күн бұрын
thank you brother
@TheMotorcycleBoss17 күн бұрын
No problem. I hope this fixes your issue
@keerthiv368417 күн бұрын
After few days the same issue repeating, what is the permanent solution for this issue..??
@TheMotorcycleBoss17 күн бұрын
If the issue persists, that means you have too much air still trapped in your lines or in your caliper. Sometimes you have to remove your caliper and move it around while you bleed. Air will get trapped in pockets inside the brake line or caliper that you can't get out without doing this. Remember that the air pockets will always float to the highest point in the system. But if there is an aggressive bend or pocket, they can get stuck. I know having to do this sucks but it needs to be done if your brakes keep getting mushy.
@Max.52721 күн бұрын
You're the real MVP 👌👌👌👌
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Thanks! I hope this was helpful to you! Ride safe!
@zactan646722 күн бұрын
Bleed my brake in a workshop and this issues occurred. Used this technique and left it overnight for about 8 hours issues have improved, hopefully it will fully fix it the next time I try. Thanks for the tips!
@TheMotorcycleBoss22 күн бұрын
I'm glad it helped at least a little. Usually, if the problem persists, you still have too much air trapped in the system. Sometimes you have to detach the caliper and move it around while bleeding to get out any trapped air. It sucks to do but will almost guarantee a proper bleed. Hope it goes well for you!
@genericjonathan411524 күн бұрын
I took my forks to a shop and they came back without the centering dowel
@TheMotorcycleBoss24 күн бұрын
Whoa! That sucks. Someone wasn't paying attention for sure!
@justcommenting498126 күн бұрын
Thank you.
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
You're welcome! No problem. Glad to be of service!
@onewisedre28 күн бұрын
Bro stop simping for your girl be a man
@ashmagor7913Ай бұрын
Hi mate! Not sure if you can help but I have rebuilt the master cylinder but fluid still won’t go through. Any suggestions? Thanks
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Have you considered trying to gravity bleed your system? Also, sometimes you need to prime the master cylinder after rebuilding it by removing the brake line at the master cylinder, cover the hole where the brake line was with your thumb, then squeeze the brake lever a few times. You should eventually feel some air pressure behind your thumb. Allow the air pressure to escape but try to not let much air back in when you release the lever. Do this until you primarily have fluid trying to squeeze past your thumb, then quickly reinstall the brake line and proceed with a gravity bleed. After the gravity bleed is done, continue to bleed as normal. I hope this helps!
@ajscain500Ай бұрын
What's your recommendation for the most suitable stand for 2016 KTM Duke 680 R . All help appreciated. Thank you.
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
I'd probably go for a rear stand and a head-lift stand personally.
@iAmSwogАй бұрын
My 2006 R6 won’t get to neutral on a complete stop with the engine on while when I turn it off it will go at first try. Would this procedure fix this problem too?
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
It's highly likely that this will fix it if you can get one for your bike. I'd say it's worth a try.
@johnmonsalve11Ай бұрын
Dude!!! Best maintenance video ive ever seen!!!!
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Thank you so much! Compliments like that really make all that work worth it! I hope to hear from you in the future. Ride safe!
@jaysanseyer6190Ай бұрын
have no front brakes on my kawasaki 250😢
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
You most likely still have too much air trapped in the lines or caliper
@ShoutingKuyaWillАй бұрын
I installed a new 2 pot caliper, brake hose still using the stock brake master and somehow we cannot make the brake lever like it was before. Luckily i saw this hack and it works! Thanks mate!
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Nice! I'm glad it worked! Great job on the project!
@shakey2634Ай бұрын
I’m confused. You identified the light kit as having a high draw. You changed the source of power for the light kit. How did that change the amount of draw the light kit used? Did you move it from a hot circuit to a switched circuit?
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Yes. Exactly. That way it isn't connected to the battery when the bike is off. The light kit only has power while the bike's ignition is on. Hope that clears things up!
@shakey2634Ай бұрын
@@TheMotorcycleBoss It did! Thanks! Ride safe.
@chrislathey6244Ай бұрын
Great video. learned everything I think I needed. Appreciate you brother.
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Glad it was helpful. It was a pain to shoot buy I'm glad it can help so many people. Your comment is appreciated. Ride safe!
@ariasher7930Ай бұрын
Great video. Used it with my manual to replace oil and seals on a 2020 GSX-R750 with the Showa 41mm BPF. Thanks!
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment! Much appreciated.
@JDnBeastletАй бұрын
An excellent demonstration video... thanks!
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Thanks a lot! I was trying to make it as clear as possible. Glad I did. Your comment is much appreciated!
@azminramlieАй бұрын
Thanks a millio! A very good in informative video 👍👍👍👍
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Thanks! I hope it will be helpful to you! Ride safe!
@ohrideАй бұрын
sadly, it didnt work for mine.
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
It means you still have air trapped in your lines or caliper. Worst case is your master cylinder seal is allowing brake fluid to bypass. But most likely you just still have too much air you need to get out
@user-fk2mp5xh4sАй бұрын
How come you don't have any new videos?
@TheMotorcycleBossАй бұрын
Been busy working on a different project. But I will be pushing more videos out within the next few months as I will be resurrecting my cruiser. I hope to hear from you again once those videos drop. My new project has been houseofwolvesacademy.com of you want to go check it out. Still in progress right now
@user-fk2mp5xh4sАй бұрын
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I could definitely see why this channel took a pause, that project has great potential. Drop a short quick tip type video periodically, when life permits.
@johnkap2 ай бұрын
It actually works! Thanks mate!
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
No problem. Glad to hear it worked out! Ride safe!
@sunnyworld50732 ай бұрын
Great stuff thanks
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks a lot!
@joruckus2 ай бұрын
Cool tip. How do you keep the rear brake compressed over night?
@joruckus2 ай бұрын
Nevermind. I wedged a rag between the lever and bracket. I'll check back in a couple days to see if this works lol.
@TheMotorcycleBoss2 ай бұрын
Stacking something heavy on it is what I do. But you could also ratchetstrap it to the floor somehow.
@joruckus2 ай бұрын
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Thanks, Boss. I really hope this works. Don't know why my rear brakes are spongy. New pads, lines, res, fluid, zerk...new everything.
@TheMotorcycleBoss2 ай бұрын
@@joruckus Typically when you replace everything, you will still have trapped air in a lower spot in the calipers. That would bean that you have to unmount the caliper(s) and twist and turn them while you bleed to force any air bubbles to the highest point of the caliper which should be the bleed valve. This also happens in brake lines if there is a high spot in the line. Air will stay lodged up there until you raise the caliper higher than the line. A lot of extra work but it's common for rear brakes unfortunately. If the trick in the video doesn't help you, try what I suggested then do the ratchetstrap thing after you got a firm pressure. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment!
@joruckus2 ай бұрын
@@TheMotorcycleBoss brotha, it worked! It's like a brand new bike! Thanks, again!
@MrBlack-wt5er2 ай бұрын
This is genius!
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Thanks! Just be sure to only use this trick if you are confident that it was tightened properly before you removed the bolt. Also, friction can increase over time due to grime and corrosion so use your best judgement on when you think you should stop. Ride safe! I look forward to hearing from you in future videos!
@kartal78462 ай бұрын
Ön lastik ABS kablosumuydu
@TheMotorcycleBoss2 ай бұрын
Hayır. Kablo, çekiş kontrolü için tasarlanmıştır.
@kartal78462 ай бұрын
@@TheMotorcycleBoss km kablosu neresinde oluyor
@TheMotorcycleBoss2 ай бұрын
@@kartal7846 Motosikletim ABS versiyonu değil. Bu yüzden o kablo yok. Servis el kitabınıza danışmak size bu cevabı verecektir.
@shiv.seeking2 ай бұрын
Can we do this to the rear brakes as well ?
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Yes. You can. Although I've had mixed results due to the fact that the rear brake lines have a hump to account for the swingarm movement. The hump is sometimes higher than the master cylinder and any air bubbles that accumulate using this trick will always float to the highest point in the system. So, if you can keep the master cylinder at the highest part of the system and apply pressure to the lines overnight, that is probably the best way to get similar results to the front brake. Ride safe!
@erikyater22152 ай бұрын
Great video! You give some cool tips.
@TheMotorcycleBoss2 ай бұрын
Thanks! I'm glad I was able to help you! Ride safe!
@JosephPhelps-io9qq3 ай бұрын
Thank you for this video
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
So nice of you. No problem. I hope it helps!
@Kyre50493 ай бұрын
Took a 98 Honda CBR 600F3 to a shop and told me was a bent front fork. Rebuilt one and the preload adjuster doesn’t match the left side and the oil is set too high in both. Still have a squeak resembles a clown nose honking. . 😮😅😊
@Dulema3 ай бұрын
Dang! That sucks. What's your next move from here?
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Sorry to hear that. Glad you found the issue though. These shops are ridiculous sometimes.
@B_K4603 ай бұрын
İ will try this on my suzuki hayabusa the front brake’s are squiking like hell
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Any luck with using the trick?
@1993whitenoise3 ай бұрын
Awesome video very helpful. Got the forks re installed now it’s twisted. How can I fix that?
@TheMotorcycleBoss3 ай бұрын
You should be able to twist it to the correct position no problem
@rohrt13 ай бұрын
You have a link in the comments for everything but the switch itself..
@TheMotorcycleBoss3 ай бұрын
It became unavailable on Amazon. You can search the Kawasaki part #: 27010-0717. Good luck with your search!
@Webberdock3 ай бұрын
Left and right forks are have a differnt amount of oil.
@TheMotorcycleBoss3 ай бұрын
If they do, it's because one was leaking. They are supposed to have the same amount unless you have the BF forks.
@Webberdock3 ай бұрын
@@TheMotorcycleBoss right one:Approx. 460 mL (15.6 US oz.) (when changing oil) 538 ±2.5 mL (18.2 ±0.085 US oz.) (after disassembly and completely dry) , and left one: Approx. 480 mL (16.2 US oz.) (when changing oil) 566 ±2.5 mL (19.1 ±0.085 US oz.) (after disassembly and completely dry)
@Webberdock3 ай бұрын
@@TheMotorcycleBoss right :90 ±2 mm (3.54 ±0.08 in.) (fully compressed, below from the top of outer tube) , left: 80 ±2 mm (3.15 ±0.08 in.) (fully compressed, below from the top of outer tube)
@TheMotorcycleBoss3 ай бұрын
I triple checked my reference video from Dave Moss as well as the service manual for the bike. They both are showing me the same thing. Levels are the same on both forks. Service manual pg. 13-6 & 13-15 both say nothing about different levels. What are you referencing?
@natef15043 ай бұрын
I can’t begin to tell you how many videos I went through to find yours, which actually shows how to do this. Much appreciated. I subscribed.
@TheMotorcycleBoss3 ай бұрын
I had the same issue. That's why I made the video. I'm glad you found it helpful. Hope to hear from you in the future!
@dc_hoonigan72303 ай бұрын
So how did you like the new star? And where did you order it from? Who's the maker of it?
@TheMotorcycleBoss3 ай бұрын
It's made by a company called Factory Pro. It made a noticeable difference immediately. I literally just got home from riding having it installed years later. Hard shifts have been reduced by around 80%! They still happen but when they do, they aren't as bad. Would 100% recommend this mod
@lassehelledi87473 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video. Where did you get the 2,4 factor @1:40 ?
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
The number 2.4 in the formula comes from the assumption that a well-functioning battery should be able to sustain a parasitic draw for about 24 hours before it’s significantly discharged. So, if you divide the amp-hour rating of the battery by 2.4, you get the maximum allowable current draw in amps that the battery should be able to sustain for 24 hours.
@ronniegeo40684 ай бұрын
Hahaha I end up replacing carburador kid also spark plug so many things and something simple that simple 😢😅😅😅
@Nick_R_4 ай бұрын
A related problem that causes confusion is the gear sensor falsely reporting the bike to be in gear when it's actually in neutral.
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
This is true. Fortunately, a simple continuity and resistance test should help anybody narrow down the problem.
@laurafraser39224 ай бұрын
Great video thank you!! How often should i do this?
@TheMotorcycleBoss4 ай бұрын
Whenever you feel your cable has resistance
@chechita15624 ай бұрын
Con esa paciencia que trabaja es pura pérdida 😂😂
@ExpresShans4 ай бұрын
Your girlfriend is lame if she doesn’t have her own bike.
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
She does now!
@Flizzor4 ай бұрын
8:40 I can’t get mine flush I have a driver but still don’t go down about 1 centimeter
@TheMotorcycleBoss4 ай бұрын
As long as you can put the washer & clip on top, you should be fine, if not, be sure to grease the seal and apply heat to the fork to help it expand
@user-xy8mx2xw1c4 ай бұрын
Just rebuilt my '06 636 MC today using his vid, thanks a bunch 💪🏻
@ThisisForTheTV3 ай бұрын
You too huh? Did your front brake feel like if should after the rebuild? Read in the forums that some people have reoccurring problems with the 05 06 636 MC. Was considering upgrading to a newer models MC but figured if try to rebuild if first and sore how that went.
@TheMotorcycleBoss21 күн бұрын
Thanks! I'm glad it worked out for you. I've had a few people tell me it is their go-to video for whenever a rebuild is needed. Glad to be so helpful in some way.
@user-xy8mx2xw1c21 күн бұрын
@@ThisisForTheTV there's no denying an upgrade is better, but mine definitely improved noticably, especially on track where it gets abused
Пікірлер
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
Glad I could help!
I know this is an old video now, but thanks 👍🏻
@@nickrider5220 your thanks is much appreciated. Even tho I haven't posted in years, I still respond to everyone I can. The video will forever be relevant as long as there are Gen4 ZX10's still on the road. Glad to be of service! Ride safe!
You’re great thanks saved my bacon .
Glad I could help!
When my bike was hot.. I start my 1300 while in the prime cycle at the beginning... and it works every time
Where is the description? I need part number so I can order all the parts to redo my forks.. Thanks
hm not the issue for me. mine only recently started squeaking but not in a normal way. it squeaks only 1-30 mph and will stop if i go faster. also stops momentarily if i apply front brake
That's a weird one. You figure out the issue?
thank you brother
No problem. I hope this fixes your issue
After few days the same issue repeating, what is the permanent solution for this issue..??
If the issue persists, that means you have too much air still trapped in your lines or in your caliper. Sometimes you have to remove your caliper and move it around while you bleed. Air will get trapped in pockets inside the brake line or caliper that you can't get out without doing this. Remember that the air pockets will always float to the highest point in the system. But if there is an aggressive bend or pocket, they can get stuck. I know having to do this sucks but it needs to be done if your brakes keep getting mushy.
You're the real MVP 👌👌👌👌
Thanks! I hope this was helpful to you! Ride safe!
Bleed my brake in a workshop and this issues occurred. Used this technique and left it overnight for about 8 hours issues have improved, hopefully it will fully fix it the next time I try. Thanks for the tips!
I'm glad it helped at least a little. Usually, if the problem persists, you still have too much air trapped in the system. Sometimes you have to detach the caliper and move it around while bleeding to get out any trapped air. It sucks to do but will almost guarantee a proper bleed. Hope it goes well for you!
I took my forks to a shop and they came back without the centering dowel
Whoa! That sucks. Someone wasn't paying attention for sure!
Thank you.
You're welcome! No problem. Glad to be of service!
Bro stop simping for your girl be a man
Hi mate! Not sure if you can help but I have rebuilt the master cylinder but fluid still won’t go through. Any suggestions? Thanks
Have you considered trying to gravity bleed your system? Also, sometimes you need to prime the master cylinder after rebuilding it by removing the brake line at the master cylinder, cover the hole where the brake line was with your thumb, then squeeze the brake lever a few times. You should eventually feel some air pressure behind your thumb. Allow the air pressure to escape but try to not let much air back in when you release the lever. Do this until you primarily have fluid trying to squeeze past your thumb, then quickly reinstall the brake line and proceed with a gravity bleed. After the gravity bleed is done, continue to bleed as normal. I hope this helps!
What's your recommendation for the most suitable stand for 2016 KTM Duke 680 R . All help appreciated. Thank you.
I'd probably go for a rear stand and a head-lift stand personally.
My 2006 R6 won’t get to neutral on a complete stop with the engine on while when I turn it off it will go at first try. Would this procedure fix this problem too?
It's highly likely that this will fix it if you can get one for your bike. I'd say it's worth a try.
Dude!!! Best maintenance video ive ever seen!!!!
Thank you so much! Compliments like that really make all that work worth it! I hope to hear from you in the future. Ride safe!
have no front brakes on my kawasaki 250😢
You most likely still have too much air trapped in the lines or caliper
I installed a new 2 pot caliper, brake hose still using the stock brake master and somehow we cannot make the brake lever like it was before. Luckily i saw this hack and it works! Thanks mate!
Nice! I'm glad it worked! Great job on the project!
I’m confused. You identified the light kit as having a high draw. You changed the source of power for the light kit. How did that change the amount of draw the light kit used? Did you move it from a hot circuit to a switched circuit?
Yes. Exactly. That way it isn't connected to the battery when the bike is off. The light kit only has power while the bike's ignition is on. Hope that clears things up!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss It did! Thanks! Ride safe.
Great video. learned everything I think I needed. Appreciate you brother.
Glad it was helpful. It was a pain to shoot buy I'm glad it can help so many people. Your comment is appreciated. Ride safe!
Great video. Used it with my manual to replace oil and seals on a 2020 GSX-R750 with the Showa 41mm BPF. Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment! Much appreciated.
An excellent demonstration video... thanks!
Thanks a lot! I was trying to make it as clear as possible. Glad I did. Your comment is much appreciated!
Thanks a millio! A very good in informative video 👍👍👍👍
Thanks! I hope it will be helpful to you! Ride safe!
sadly, it didnt work for mine.
It means you still have air trapped in your lines or caliper. Worst case is your master cylinder seal is allowing brake fluid to bypass. But most likely you just still have too much air you need to get out
How come you don't have any new videos?
Been busy working on a different project. But I will be pushing more videos out within the next few months as I will be resurrecting my cruiser. I hope to hear from you again once those videos drop. My new project has been houseofwolvesacademy.com of you want to go check it out. Still in progress right now
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I could definitely see why this channel took a pause, that project has great potential. Drop a short quick tip type video periodically, when life permits.
It actually works! Thanks mate!
No problem. Glad to hear it worked out! Ride safe!
Great stuff thanks
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks a lot!
Cool tip. How do you keep the rear brake compressed over night?
Nevermind. I wedged a rag between the lever and bracket. I'll check back in a couple days to see if this works lol.
Stacking something heavy on it is what I do. But you could also ratchetstrap it to the floor somehow.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Thanks, Boss. I really hope this works. Don't know why my rear brakes are spongy. New pads, lines, res, fluid, zerk...new everything.
@@joruckus Typically when you replace everything, you will still have trapped air in a lower spot in the calipers. That would bean that you have to unmount the caliper(s) and twist and turn them while you bleed to force any air bubbles to the highest point of the caliper which should be the bleed valve. This also happens in brake lines if there is a high spot in the line. Air will stay lodged up there until you raise the caliper higher than the line. A lot of extra work but it's common for rear brakes unfortunately. If the trick in the video doesn't help you, try what I suggested then do the ratchetstrap thing after you got a firm pressure. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss brotha, it worked! It's like a brand new bike! Thanks, again!
This is genius!
Thanks! Just be sure to only use this trick if you are confident that it was tightened properly before you removed the bolt. Also, friction can increase over time due to grime and corrosion so use your best judgement on when you think you should stop. Ride safe! I look forward to hearing from you in future videos!
Ön lastik ABS kablosumuydu
Hayır. Kablo, çekiş kontrolü için tasarlanmıştır.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss km kablosu neresinde oluyor
@@kartal7846 Motosikletim ABS versiyonu değil. Bu yüzden o kablo yok. Servis el kitabınıza danışmak size bu cevabı verecektir.
Can we do this to the rear brakes as well ?
Yes. You can. Although I've had mixed results due to the fact that the rear brake lines have a hump to account for the swingarm movement. The hump is sometimes higher than the master cylinder and any air bubbles that accumulate using this trick will always float to the highest point in the system. So, if you can keep the master cylinder at the highest part of the system and apply pressure to the lines overnight, that is probably the best way to get similar results to the front brake. Ride safe!
Great video! You give some cool tips.
Thanks! I'm glad I was able to help you! Ride safe!
Thank you for this video
So nice of you. No problem. I hope it helps!
Took a 98 Honda CBR 600F3 to a shop and told me was a bent front fork. Rebuilt one and the preload adjuster doesn’t match the left side and the oil is set too high in both. Still have a squeak resembles a clown nose honking. . 😮😅😊
Dang! That sucks. What's your next move from here?
Sorry to hear that. Glad you found the issue though. These shops are ridiculous sometimes.
İ will try this on my suzuki hayabusa the front brake’s are squiking like hell
Any luck with using the trick?
Awesome video very helpful. Got the forks re installed now it’s twisted. How can I fix that?
You should be able to twist it to the correct position no problem
You have a link in the comments for everything but the switch itself..
It became unavailable on Amazon. You can search the Kawasaki part #: 27010-0717. Good luck with your search!
Left and right forks are have a differnt amount of oil.
If they do, it's because one was leaking. They are supposed to have the same amount unless you have the BF forks.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss right one:Approx. 460 mL (15.6 US oz.) (when changing oil) 538 ±2.5 mL (18.2 ±0.085 US oz.) (after disassembly and completely dry) , and left one: Approx. 480 mL (16.2 US oz.) (when changing oil) 566 ±2.5 mL (19.1 ±0.085 US oz.) (after disassembly and completely dry)
@@TheMotorcycleBoss right :90 ±2 mm (3.54 ±0.08 in.) (fully compressed, below from the top of outer tube) , left: 80 ±2 mm (3.15 ±0.08 in.) (fully compressed, below from the top of outer tube)
I triple checked my reference video from Dave Moss as well as the service manual for the bike. They both are showing me the same thing. Levels are the same on both forks. Service manual pg. 13-6 & 13-15 both say nothing about different levels. What are you referencing?
I can’t begin to tell you how many videos I went through to find yours, which actually shows how to do this. Much appreciated. I subscribed.
I had the same issue. That's why I made the video. I'm glad you found it helpful. Hope to hear from you in the future!
So how did you like the new star? And where did you order it from? Who's the maker of it?
It's made by a company called Factory Pro. It made a noticeable difference immediately. I literally just got home from riding having it installed years later. Hard shifts have been reduced by around 80%! They still happen but when they do, they aren't as bad. Would 100% recommend this mod
Thanks for the video. Where did you get the 2,4 factor @1:40 ?
The number 2.4 in the formula comes from the assumption that a well-functioning battery should be able to sustain a parasitic draw for about 24 hours before it’s significantly discharged. So, if you divide the amp-hour rating of the battery by 2.4, you get the maximum allowable current draw in amps that the battery should be able to sustain for 24 hours.
Hahaha I end up replacing carburador kid also spark plug so many things and something simple that simple 😢😅😅😅
A related problem that causes confusion is the gear sensor falsely reporting the bike to be in gear when it's actually in neutral.
This is true. Fortunately, a simple continuity and resistance test should help anybody narrow down the problem.
Great video thank you!! How often should i do this?
Whenever you feel your cable has resistance
Con esa paciencia que trabaja es pura pérdida 😂😂
Your girlfriend is lame if she doesn’t have her own bike.
She does now!
8:40 I can’t get mine flush I have a driver but still don’t go down about 1 centimeter
As long as you can put the washer & clip on top, you should be fine, if not, be sure to grease the seal and apply heat to the fork to help it expand
Just rebuilt my '06 636 MC today using his vid, thanks a bunch 💪🏻
You too huh? Did your front brake feel like if should after the rebuild? Read in the forums that some people have reoccurring problems with the 05 06 636 MC. Was considering upgrading to a newer models MC but figured if try to rebuild if first and sore how that went.
Thanks! I'm glad it worked out for you. I've had a few people tell me it is their go-to video for whenever a rebuild is needed. Glad to be so helpful in some way.
@@ThisisForTheTV there's no denying an upgrade is better, but mine definitely improved noticably, especially on track where it gets abused