Low budget and ugly but very informative videos on stop motion animation, fine art materials and techniques, and advice on getting into art or animation school.
The ramblings of a certified art educator with a BFA in sculpture and MFA in stop motion animation.
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Dizzy Space! My respects.
so cool. thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your content!
❤❤❤
is there any way to have the camera screen still show aswell as on the pc?
hello
I came across this video and I must say it is packed with very precise detailed information !! A must for all beginning stop motion newcomers, you have covered things that others have glossed over in explanations and have left out . Please make more videos explaining the process and detailed info on Dragonframe software . You mentioned that you have to set the aperture on the camera as well as the Dragonframe software....does that apply to all other settings on the camera , shutter speed, ISO setting ?? Love this video !!
This was great. Thanks
Best tour ! Amazing tools and setup! Wishing you all the best !!
Thank you very much for sharing this! GOD Bless you all!
Dragon frame
Whats the good logiciel for ordinateur to make it ?
I like stop motion and not have materiel haw i Can start ?
You can easily prevent the aperture flicker on any lens. Set the aperture to what ever you want. Then press the preview button on the front of your camera body. While holding the button, release the lens, and turn it a few degrees. Then the aperture is locked, and no electronics is connected between lens and body.
does anyone know how to capture frames faster. I use a dslr and it takes about 2 seconds to capture I would like to get half a second if possible.
thank you
Do u have instagram page? Whats your good name?
I don't have an Instagram for this content, sorry. I don't have much time to run a bunch of accounts 😕
How can I communicate with you? I may have some projects and we can have coorporation if u will be in interest.. with all pleasure
I’m digital content producer with 14 years experience and working in Dubai
It was an amazing Journey, excellent lesson. Thank u so much
Can you recomend some cheaper than Arri 150?
Oh yeah, you totally don't have to use the expensive ARRI lights. You can get a couple of something like this for around $10 each. If you want a specific look to your lighting, you might want to research/experiment with what type of bulb you use. Like fluorescent, halogen, incandescent, etc. Some bulbs mimic sunlight. You can also consider how bright you want the lights. Maybe buy a few different watts of bulbs to try and maybe use a few different in your final lighting. I'll do a video on lighting at some point. But look up "3 point lighting" Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light with 8.5 Inch Aluminum Reflector up to 150 Watt E26 (no Bulb Included) 6 Feet 18/2 SPT-2 Cord, 1-Pack, Silver and Black www.amazon.com/dp/B088WB5NWT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_JX139J7H73WYGVRWT45T each
Home Depot and Lowes definitely have these lights in store. Not sure if somewhere like Walmart or Target would have it in the store or just online.
The advice you're giving is worth 250,000$ at least Does dragon frame smooth out the stop motion well? I heard blender is a great tool to use
Four years of grad school for stop motion cost only a little less than that, haha. Wanna help me pay off my student loans? Haha jk
@@artschoolabridged9940 student loans is terrible.. I never went to film school nor do I want to go. I'm getting all my information from the internet for free lol
@@benjaminreyes3624 Exactly. That's why I'm doing this. No one needs to go pay that much for this info. And my honest advice, actually, is that in the animation/film industry your work is what they wanna see. Having a BFA from some school is nice, sure, but they want to see what you can do (and maybe who you know, unfortunately) more than anything else. So your "reel," which is a video sampling your work, is what you need to focus on. Watch other people's reels to get a sense for what to shoot for. I don't know if Dragonframe offers any smoothing. I don't think so? Is it kind of a blending of the frames that you mean? Stop mo is definitely choppy looking, especially if shooting in 15fps (though 24 is tough to pull off as a student or beginner or in a short amount of time). I'm doing a Intro to Making Stop Motion Puppets right now where I'll talk about build up method vs. cast, wire v. Ball and socket, tie downs, all that but I don't get much time to work on it so it could be a while til I post. Also some screenprinting stuff since that's my day job. Thank you so much, guys, for the feedback! It gets me motivated to make more videos. I lose momentum and motivation too easily
@@artschoolabridged9940 incredible response and yeah it's frame blender is what I mean. It makes stop motion smooth ☺️
Your channel is a gem for stop motion newcomers. Thanks for sharing all of this !
Thanks for sharing! This is amazing content!
This is so rad, thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills!
These are beyond outstanding! Thank you for taking the time to put these together! You’re not a tutor by chance, are you? I am in dire need of the dragon frame training and have yet to find a good video on it!
Yeah, Dragon frame tutorial videos have always been hard to find, at least for free. They have SOME on the site but not a lot and I honestly don't know enough myself to be totally confident doing one. I could do one with the basics I guess....I guess Dragonframe is just obscure enough that major video tutorial companies don't think to cover it. You could check those pay tutorial sites, if you can find one that does Dragonframe, it might be worth the free trial or just a one month's subscription to see those vids.
@@artschoolabridged9940 couldn’t agree more on the lack of training and tips on the platform. And thank you for such a thoughtful reply! Your videos have helped me a great deal! I’ll scope out some of the skillshare’s and whatnot to see what’s out there. Thanks again and keep producing!
@@kyleanderson2949 Yeah, if you find anything, please link it here! I have so much more I could do videos about. It's just a matter of having the time and energy. I'm thinking I could do an intro to puppet making video in the next few days though! Just talking through build up versus cast methods of puppet making and wire versus ball and socket armature
Now i'm your student
This is awesome, thank you so much for sharing with us!
This has been really helpful! Thank you so much for sharing!
I'm just getting into claymation and stop motion animation and I just want to say, I watched this whole thing and I love it and found it so interesting. Thank you for making this! I wish you would make more videos :)
Excellent work. 👍👍👍
Thank you.
👍👍👍
Love the animation
Amazing
Magnets! Damn that's smart, definitely going to keep that in mind
Very helpfull video, thanks for this.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! 👍
Do you have the thesis film finished? I'd loved to see it
this was a very good video
what type of Latex do you use to make and cast the hands and heads? there's this stuff M00511-150 MOREZMORE Try PlatSil Gel 10 Pourable Silicone Rubber Liquid 150 g but you still need to add Silk Pigment, and its a bit difficult at time to buy just the one flesh color, been looking for a Latex already with the flesh color in it, but don't think there is? i just been testing different clays not many, cuz I just begun to want to do Stop Motion animation, its always been a passion of mine, and B4 one really didn't have a lot of the tools that are now available, plus I was in a different Trip LoL finally came to my senses😊 well you have much interesting stuff on ur YT Ch, don't know why you don't have more subscribers, but I'll sub I want to keep watching ur videos there's much useful stuff mean a lot .
Hey! I didn't realize these videos were getting any views. The latex I used is called "Mold Builder" and it was an off white color. I had no trouble coloring it with acrylic paint, which is obviously easier than trying to color silicone with silc pigs.
@@artschoolabridged9940 : well i took into account all the detail from Armatures to scenery that was put into these figures and Background, one never knows who may be watching these videos
ahh yeah StopMoAnim Nation, i donn the Melting, the Van Akens clay but the brown color with beeswax you can see like the plaque in it and the color is not the same as it was in its original form, um saw CraftMan melting monster clay in a Mini Rice Cooker Steamer which is basically the same as the 2 pots which I my self do, but been wanting to buy a steam pot to melt it like that better. well TY for many Tips that I didn't know, oh also you mention add chalk to the clay? while in me melting form yes? cuz I tried it but way after the fact but was regular baby power and it starts it getting crumbly, like old Polymer clay, again ty for all these cool tips and tricks ama use them.
Very informative video, will help me a lot on some of the plasticine queries I have. Can't believe no-one else has commented.
So I'm trying to avoid the glass plane being visible on a colored background, do think is it better to use plexiglas than regular glass?
Way late but I'll answer anyway. Huh. Not sure what you mean. Is there a reflection that gives away that there's glass there? Maybe adjust your lighting? Or your focus is auto-focusing on the glass rather than what is beyond it? You could try plexiglass but I'm pretty sure (from knowing a little about glass) that Plexi won't have the same optical clarity. Like there might be a slight haze to everything when seen through plexiglass. I would try adjusting your lighting angle or camera angle. Maybe your camera isn't totally perpendicular to the surface of the glass?
Thanks for this video. I have a question tho. In the DragonFrame software, I hit a wall when I want to liveview a scene in the animation section. At 7:50, I can see through the sensor, but I have two issues: - The live view is a bit low res in the animation. Is there a way to see the scene in high res ? It's bit tricky for focus rather than photo by photo ? - I noticed a big lighting difference between live view and shoot reference. Is there a way to fix that ? Thanks !
A little late to the party, but I've spent a while gathering all this info independently of anyone asking me to or through any immediate need for myself, so hopefully this saves someone some time: Live view is low (ish) res with most cameras, some are better than others but it's mainly to do with the camera you're able to get your hands on. The Canon EOS R/RP (with the stopmotion firmware) will give a lovely 1920x1280, but the older cameras like the 1000D will give 768 x 512, or mid-rangey stuff like the 60D gives 1056 x 704. All the info is on the supported camera page on the dragon frame website. But, in terms of focus, there's a focus check that enlarges a portion of the live view that most (at least Canon) cameras support (again, check the supported camera page) that you can now access in the animation workspace (used to have to switch to cinematography window). The lighting changing between the live view and reference shots could be to do with a couple of things, first being using a Nikon camera, some of them (or all of them?) don't have exposure simulation, so they're just going to automatically try and guess what the exposure is and there's nothing to do about it except from checking actual capture a lot. Next could be that exposure simulation is turned off, which is a case of turning back on (if the camera has it). Last would be using a manual lens on a Canon body (as recommended) where it's just guessing the exposure incorrectly because of the manual lens, 'Exposure Preview Offset' in the cinematography window can fix this or you can shell out on a little gadget from dragonframe called a correction cap that lets the software know how the shot should look. There we go, a day well well spent.
@@morganmanno thank you. It never too late to share some wise tips. I'm using a 5dmarkV and I can either use Tamron lens, or manual lenses like Samyang. I actually did not try to use for it since last year (and not the fault of Covid haha). Thanks for sharing, I spent a lot ot time trying to find this info online.
@@amathma God I'm late but yeah I found using a manual lens gave me a nearly unusable live view. I had to push the settings to like overexpose it to even see anything at all (it was almost pitch black at first). I had to keep taking test shots to get my lighting right. No one explained anything about using a manual lens, just told me I should use one, lol. But in general, you have to just trust that your actual photos will come out nice. The live view is never going to be as HD as the actual shots. It's always a bit grainy and whatnot but you get it right, it's obviously SUPER helpful