A long-time racer, from 1984 to 2018 ranging from Karting to Stock Car Racing. Always been an RC fan since my first RC Car (Sand Scorcher) from about 1982.
Since then I have an RC KZread Channel to "Document" what I get up to. There are also links for my eBay Shop for Tamiya Hop Ups so you should find something of interest.
Anything with an engine sparks my interest, so you'll find many Vintage Nitro RC Cars in my profile
Please leave comments and feedback as i will take on board any suggestions and recommendations
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Yikes, not a good experience. May be time to exit the Fly-Sky to the dump and forget about the thing! I use a Futaba T4GRS stick controller, started on stick controllers and am still there.
I use Sanwa on my Race Cars - Radiolink on some of my hobby cars, and Flysky, yes the Flysky was a nightmare, never had that trouble before
On my GT12 i have the same problem with the front carbon fibre beam (U8372). As you point out, a heavy front end collision can cause the beam to become loose. This dramatically affects stearing! I have had to replace this beam due to ongoing damage (only a mere £16!) The suggested solution of glueing sounds interesting as I have not heard this myself before, but my schumacher circle is very limited. If you have a heavy front end collision and the steering goes, then I would retire the race round and fix for the next race round. Like the batteries as I run these. Powering out of corners may be down to motor torque, maybee looking at how much torque your motor has could be worth some investigation. Really liking your race follow up synopsis, keep them coming. Your incremental analysis and fix is the right approach.
mmmm hadn't thought of motor torque, my approach is get the car to be driven consistently, and make changes. People said to me, the Eclipse 4 is not an easy car to drive out of the box. Xray chassis work well and are easy to drive. I'll stick with the Schumacher, I like a challenge - lol. Thanks for the input Andrew
Hola! Éste modelo ya tiene sus años, lo he visto correr en circuito y va realmente bien, gracias a su transmisión por correa y su centro de gravedad muy bajo. Sinembargo ésto también es un problema. Porque la correa tiende a rozar por su parte baja contra el asfalto, sobretodo al subirse por los pianos del circuito. Le tengo puesto el ojo encima a éste modelo, ya que su relación calidad precio es inigualable. Es un modelo de semi competición, y bastante resistente a los impactos, la fibra de carbono será más liviana, pero también es más frágil, ante un impacto puede romper, mientras que el material plástico es más flexible y resistente, y el aluminio tiende a doblarse. Semi competición lo dice todo. Me preocupa que por sus años esté descatalogado y empiecen a faltar repuestos. No sabía que el diferencial delantero fuese autoblocante. Sobretodo me interesa saber si hay repuestos suficientes y si los planetarios y satélites pueden ser reemplazados por otros de mayor calidad. En cuánto al roce de la correa contra el asfalto es cuestión de ingenio y fabricar por nuestra cuenta un protector que evite el mencionado roce. Como he dicho, estoy buscando un coche de 1/10 nitro pista, y transmisión por correa. Y realmente no hay nada en el mercado a no ser que escoja un modelo de competición. Quisiera saber de las opiniones de sus usuarios, ventajas e inconvenientes. Gracias!
Thank you for your reply - I haven't run this car yet, it came with a load of spares, and it is very good condition, engine has a nice "Pop" when it is turned over.
@@racing393 pués ya está tardando en ponerlo en funcionamiento. 😅
lets go !! 👍
I have a GT12 which I built about 9 months ago. I have been racing this 'thing' regularly at my local rc club ever since. It has taken 9 months to get the car into a drivable state! It is only now that my lap times are coming down to be competitive. I have had, in particular, many issues with steering. I have not even got around to tyre truing yet! I think the key is getting the car to go where you want it to on the track without a great deal of wrestling of the controls. The driving becomes almost like an extension of your hands and the car goes where you ask it too rather than fighting against you. I have found, by trial and error, to only put additive on the front tyres 5 minutes before your race. This helps a lot with steering ability. I have also had damage to carbon fibre parts connected with the steering/suspension and this had been hidden and took a long time to find. If in doubt replace the carbon part. It seems like the last 9 months has been like torture, but have now come out the other side and I can start to enjoy the racing. I hope my experience dosnt put you off but I guess we all have to go through it.
yes, that all sounds like me trying to race my LMP. I am just about full throttle on the straights for a nano sec. just trying to be constant and not hit anything. Thank you for the input, it's appreciated
Glad to have you in this year! Love to see anything you want to share brother! I’ll be building mine soon.. waiting on bearings! Subscribed to you!🤜🤛
Thank you - just done a sub to you my friend as well, my vids will be up in a week or so
I know this video is a bit older…but did you have to change gears in the front diff at all?
No, stock gears in the front and thicker diff oil in the front
@@racing393 awesome! Thank you for the reply. Building this chassis for the poorboys speed contest so your info is very useful!🤜🤛
@@Rcprescription yes so am I, waiting for a few parts
Thanks for the vid, I’m very curious about this kit. Ive been around rc10s since almost the beginning so I’m confident i could build 75% of it without the stinkin instructions lol 😅
then you sir are awesome, maybe I could build a Tamiya SRB kit with no manual as I grew up building these, but an Rc10, could never afford one. Word on the street is if you are an RC10 "nerd" then you will be fine building the FanRc. Now I had a go building these it all makes sense now - hindsight is a great thing
What a wicked car!!!
Looks really nice
There a hole under the wing tubes, thats where you screw the ball stud in for the rear upper tie rods to attach to, not the part with all the holes, thats for the older cars
@@mmac1189 I saw that, makes sense as it allows more adjustment I haven’t moved them yet but I will
The blue washers go the other way around, flat face out, tapered edge towards the hub, the flat face pushes against the rim, hope this helps
@@mmac1189 yes that does. Thank you I’ll change them The power of you tube 👍
No way that nitro is making that noise
@@theshoecave1965 what noise? Been a while since I watched it
@@theshoecave1965 I see I wish it did make that noise 🤪
Im curious did you run her with the A.E pro 15 in? I would like to hear how you found that engine?
Yes i did run the car with the engine shown in this vid, the film of this is on my channel, prob one of the first nitro's I had run for years. It went very well, it has loads of rev and just keeps pulling - nice!
The thunder tiger pro 15 and the AE associated electrics pro 15 at the same engine as they’re literally the same company. But that always engine is amazing lovely lovely score.
yes, I did read the tiger engine and OS.15 are the same, mine has the AE branding
@@racing393 I have that engine as well I’m trying to decide out of the 3 engines I have what one to go with my spare truck has the AE like yours the one installed at the moment is a tower hobbies 15 that I know nothing about and then I have a SH off brand 15 also that I’ve no experience of? Are you on FB?
@@s.o.sSavage the engines are quite straight forward, like most Nitro's the carb is important to get right - yes I am on FB
Looks great👍
Oooo controversial 😂😂😂👍
lol that’s amazing 😂😂😂
prefer the Truck or the Buggy?
Poor boys RC KZread channel is using the MF01x for the 2024 speed challenge. We are going to join in the competition this year.
GTR2 Forever, i like It 👍🏼
I owned one of these back in the very early 90’s And will most likely get another if I can find a nice one👍
yeah, can get them for good money - sometimes it's cheaper to buy 2 so 1 good one can be made
@@racing393 yes that’s what I do As well. I’m restoring a very rare RC10GT on my Channel and I also got a donor truck for that and of course my Savages! I remember when I first got the Mardave it was used and only ran in reverse but I remember also it being easy to work on! I like the look of your one nice work👍
@@s.o.sSavage i'll go and follow your channel now
@@racing393 I’ve done the same 👍
@@s.o.sSavage have you refurbished one or bought one?
I’ve gotten a few Fan parts . Good stuff ! I hope to add a graphite car to the collection soon .
Great videos. Thanks for taking the drive into the unknown. It week certainly help me with my kit. A couple question's or comments... first what weight shock oil did you use? I have a 40w oil i was planning on using. It liked like you hand 300 or 500... my guess is that's just a different measurement. What would the equivalent be in the "w" measurement? Also i noticed your cars body had like a scoop molded into the left side pod. Did you buy a different body? The one in my kit does not have that. Nor does my original rc10 but i know that's not the original body that came with the kit even though it's supposed to be the same.
In the front I used 300CST and in the rear I went for 500CST. For the W it would be 27.5 and 40. The shell was the one which came with the kit, maybe that might differ depends on location and availability? Glad you enjoyed this series of video's, and glad they helped in some way.
So I happened to notice that it seems as though the world's car has the "Turbo Mirage" body shell. This one has that little scoop looking detail that you had on at least the left side. The shell that came in my fan rc kit does not. Like you said it might have to do with location. Now I'm not 100% sure which body shell originally came with my rc10 graphite but the one that came in my kit is an exact match to the one I was running on my old rc10. None of this matters too much but it does indicate that this new fan rc kit is somewhat of a hybrid between the two rc10's, the graphite and the world's. Along those lines the world's car shows shocks with threaded bodies for ride height adjustment. In My brief look at the Fan kit the shocks appear to be smooth as do yours. Did you refer to the graphite instruction manual for their assembly? I plan to do that while building mine. Wondering if you did the same or did you just use your experience to get it right?
@@GCC13 The instructions were online as I had to check the order of the seals and nylon spacers - the manual was from the worlds car online. Its odd about the shell and how different that are worldwide.
I wonder if the correct decals for this car are the worlds or graphite ones to keep it true to the original..
That's a very good question, hopefully someone will answer who knows the RC10 time line around that era
Yes,, ordered mine from L&L models on 4th june..
Still waiting for mine from L&L models, on the webpage my order status is fulfilled, ordered back when the next shippment was july 7th, but am not getting any kit, my money gone it seems. :( am going to have to look for a better and more reliable store than L&L Models.
Have you messaged Lee on Facebook? Mine said fulfilled on the webpage but didn't receive it until over a week later - the kits hadn't arrived as expected. Give it time mate and contact Lee, he is very good
@@racing393 I sent him an email 4 days ago as we were 2 people that wondered about status on his company FB, were he instead of explaing to us just deleted our comments, the answer i got back on the email was what i would say rather inmature. this is exactly what he wrote i have not let any words out, not even a signature. ************************ " Its on pre order!! Its not been shipped yet thats why Please read the add before buying " ************************ When i ordered mine back on june 4th, the add said next shippment july 7th, and the status on the order was pre-order, then on july 6-7 my order changed status to fulfilled july 4th, so yeah i was of cause wondering about a tracking id. and now on the page my order is still fulfilled, and the add says next shipment sometime in august. So i answered him back why did the order change status to fulfilled if it is clearly not fulfilled, and that he has not answered til date, guess he believes silence is king. This was my first order with L&L models, and was looking to spend more money as i raced a TeamCar back in 1993. and a Yokomo that i am looking to restore, but i am beginning to feel rather scammed to be honest, so until i get my car and thereby proof that he has not started just taking some £400 (incl postage to Sweden) i do not dare to order more parts from him. So i am trying to find another dealer that wants my money ;)
oh thank lord you finished with a real body haha. Stadium truck is awesome!
Rc10 from the 90's?
A replica RC10 Graphite - but not called an RC10 - Look up FanRc
I'm following the instructions for the 6002 RC10 Worlds Car Kit. It is all going together as it should. The quality of this kit is top class.
@@user-tx2pe4cm6w you’ll have no issues following the correct instructions 🤘 Are you going to race this?
The ball diff stops the wheel with the least resistance from spinning away all the power
yes, I was wondering what a veri-lock was. My guess is it is like a limited slip diff. The FanRC Kit has a pretty standard ball diff
Don't feel as if its been your fault, if the instructions had been in the box, you would have a normal rc build. I built an Atom 3 last year, the Schumacher instructions included in the box were perfect and the car was correctly built and day 1 racing went well. Think the Atom 3 kit was around £250, for the carbon version, so you can make a comparison with the cost of your Fanrc.
Hi, just stumbled across your vid. Few points:- .the carb is on back to front, turn 180 degrees and remount the servo (linkage should be on the outside). .From your 2nd vid, it appears the engine you have is a Irvine 20 Sport, not the 20 ABC. If so, this version of the engine uses a Dykes ring for compression and the sleeve should not be pinched in any way shape or form, as there needs to be clearance between the liner and piston (hot or cold). .It is possible the ring is gummed up or just worn, which if the latter, only a replacement will work (which are near impossible to find). .However, a Dykes ring engine will feel like it has little compression when turned (slowly) by hand, even when not worn. When the engine is turned quickly (or flicked over), the ring is forced out and down creating the correct seal between the piston/ring/liner. .In your 2nd video you rebuilt the engine, but was unsure of the piston skirt orientation - the correct orientation is to have the longer skirt towards the exhaust port (the engine will not run correctly otherwise). .The engine is designed to run with a pressurised fuel system, however should work fine without in an rc car application (model plane must have pressurisation though). .The carb should have a rubber O ring between the carb body and the engine block to seal (can't tell if yours has this) - if there are any air leaks (via carb/backplate or crank bearings), maintaining a steady idle and tuning will be impossible. .The engine is designed to run on a castor oil blend (not synthetic) with a max nitro content of 15%. Keep up the good work; I still have my Childhood Marauder from the late 80's with a 20ABC engine. Some of the very early examples will have a veco .19 (no piston ring) or .21 (piston ring) engine. Some cars may also be fitted with a Irvine 25 Sport or ABC, which is exactly the same dimension wise (a bored out version of the 20). Some other cars may also have various hodgepodge of aero engines with home made cooling heads :) -Chris
wow, this is fantastic knowledge and information I was looking for, must admit the compression thing seemed odd, as I noticed the oil/compression ring on the piston and wondered if a "pinch" would be the right way to go. As for the carb, must admit I wouldn't have known this so thank you for the info.
Just to say Chris, very grateful with this info. I think I read somewhere castor oil based mixed was required, and the engine did have a smell of unburnt castor oil when I stripped it down - I shall produce another video once I figure some of your stuff out - cheers buddy Dean
Glad you got its sorted , I think the main confusion is that it’s advertised as a Fan rc ‘GRAFITE’ (in big letters) worlds , so with no other info or instructions then it’s easy to look up the rc10 grafite chassis car , not the worlds car , but you done it and I still wait for the postman 😂
I have done it so you don't have to😉
For the turn buckles it sounds like you're not exactly satisfied with the measurement in the instructions being from the center of the ball cup to the other center. The old ball cups had a marking at center so you could easily measure but if the reproduction ones don't hand that center making then always remember a center to center dimension is the same as leading edge to leading edge or trailing edge to trailing edge.
Yeah, I did measure in the end from shoulder to shoulder, plus remember these where Graphite instructions and not worlds car instructions so the lengths would have been different anyway I would think?
If I'm comparing apples to apples and I might have it mixed up but it looks like graphite instructions say 2.34" and worlds says 2.51.. .
@@GCC13 best way is eye-ball them straight, different cars would be slightly different measurements I guess
Now that's a tool I already have in the box. 👍
Regarding those steering screws im going to look back at my old rc10 and see what is up there. Without being able to recall what screws were used in thinking maybe the fan rc kit has the wrong size hooks drilled? Not confirmed. Just a thought.
The instructions (graphite) was showing a much thinner screw, the Worlds instructions and parts supplied in the kit were correct - I just changed them over
Ah excellent. So those screws that weren't chamfered were not the correct screws? I assume them there were some other screws that were chamfered screws in the kit that worked? And judging by your comments that may or may not be in the right bag of parts?
@@GCC13 correct, the screws on the original Graphite were non countersunk - the FanRc has specific countersunk hardware, and yes the bags were a bit mixed up regarding the hardware, the bag ID works but you'll be looking for hardware in other bags
Ok duly noted. I'll keep a mental inventory before and as I build.
Just finally finished this installment. Have to say thanks for being the pioneer for those of us tuned in. Like I said I just recieved my kit. Have only done an unboxing because I got it the day before I went on vacation for a week. So here I sit by the beach planning my every move from your experiences. I hesitate to comment every time I get 5 free min to watch a little bit more of your viideo because I'm sure by the end of the video you've figured it out. I have an original and remember vividly building it when I was a teen. First thing I did after opening my fan kit was dig out the 75% of it I still have. It's seen better days for sure. My concern about the Fan kit is this... is the reproduction stealth tranny equal to the original? Are the diff balls at least high quality? I ordered the associated diff lube for my build. It's an easy buy. 5 bucks. Same goes for the diff rings. They any good? What about the gears? Are they going to last? And also the bearings. Are they high quality? In the original Associated kit all of these things were top quality and for the day ahead of its time. This kit has always been basic in it's brilliance I hope the new release proves to be worthy and these are my major concerns. I also don't like the steering mechanism main screws. The holes and screw size dont seam to match. Oh and my 13 tear old self is screaming at me right now to remember drilling into this graphite chassis is risky. The drill can catch on the fibers and really dig in, almost breaking the chassis. At least the original was that way. So be careful if drilling. I'll cut myself short with these last thoughts. I'm 95% certain that the rear motor guard never matched up with the piece on the gearbox on the original and I never gave a damn. I think it was always that way. Maybe it helps rigidity to be connected but I never could tell. I hear you can bend it and then get creative with how you screw it together but I bet you'll give up when you realize it doesn't matter. Makes taking the gearbox off easier anyway. And watch the blocks that hold the rear A-arms. There are 2 pairs of holes. A short or long wheelbase setup effectively. Just be consistent and use the equivalent holes in the left and right side. I look forward to your final build videos. Great work so far. I'd also love to see or hear about your impressions of it in competition. I'm thinking with modern electronics this thing will rip. Please be detailed with the electronics. This is where I'm truly lost. The modern rc era is foriegn to me. I'm just an old school rc10 guy that is thrilled for this opportunity to blast into the past. I do wish it was a ride I am taking with Associated but I've been waiting for this day for like 15 years.
to cover a few things, I did buy some ceramic bearings from Plaig Bearings in Australia, the Kit Bearings look and feel ok to me, I used ceramic just because I had already purchased them. Interestingly the ball diff balls are standard but you can buy hardened Nitrate hop ups I think? Diff grease will be fine, I used a competition grease from Schumacher Racing, the ball diff feels ok, and will run in nicely IMHO. Yes the electrics will be purchased soon, and I do a installation video leading up to a shake down run. Probably a lot of these on the interweb as we speak. A arms all ok, I run this in short wheelbase for now Planning on a shake down run at a local outdoor astro-turf track once this is completed on a practice evening - thank you for watch fella - it is very much appreciated and thank you for the advise you have given 🤟
Excellent to hear your impressions on those things. Your voyage into the unknown I find is the perfect study guide before I start my build. I'm looking forward to all the various videos upcoming. Thanks for the vids and thanks for taking the time to talk to the viewers.
@@GCC13 Thank you
Two questions then... first, would or does modern silicone diff fluid work in place of whatever the original spec was? If I remember correctly, it was paste like. I ordered some from Associated to use for my build, so I'll see when I get it. Still, if modern stuff works, it's usually better. Second question: Do I need to know the size of the diff balls to order ceramic ones, or is there a specific kit meant to be used in the stealth transmission or fan rc "stealth" transmission? I guess I should try to search that one before I ask. It may be an easy answer.
@@GCC13 Normal Diff grease works fine, I used Tamiya for now. Racing greases tend to be more expensive for the same outcome. The ceramic balls are on L and L's webpage, they are a specific size, 1/8" from memory
The website here in the states i ordered from has been great. I haven't started my build yet but after opening the box i contacted them with questions about a couple things i noticed right away. Every time i email with a question they respond. I'm really happy with them. I'm confident I'll get it all sorted out eventually with their support. They also said they'd be getting more. I recieved mine in less than a week. Anyone interested in the website I'll gladly let them know. I don't want to just put it out there without the creators approval.
You also have the rear camber link in the wrong hole it should be further in (longer). Go with the rere worlds car instructors except the chassis it is what you need. No disrespect but your problems are build problems mostly not the kit. But it helps to be an rc10 nerd. I have Fan rc parts and they are great.
@@richardjohnston2217 camber link has now been changed , and everything pointing in the right direction It’s coming together now and with no RC10 build experience it was hard and yes the worlds instructions would be better but you need to know this to get the correct build PDF, or they could have just included a link even in the kit
I mean how easy would it be to include the pdfs? Totally an oversight. Could you maybe take time in a separate short video explaining what you did vs. what is right with this linkage and setup? Remember I'm here to learn from your pain. Lol!
You are missing the outside cone washer on the rear driveshaft that sits behind the pin. JC racing do two different types of rc10 rear wheel. You have the ones for the original shafts. You need the rere size
@@richardjohnston2217 yes the blue cone washer I have put them on now 👍 Wheels all sorted, well ordered anyway
Full disclosure I haven't seen part 3 yet but... word is the drive shafts are either from the B2 or like the B2 and the b2 ruims will work on this setup. This is probably an upgrade for 2 reasons. First, those drive shafts are newer tech so presumably better and those parts are probably easier to get. Did you add a link for the fonts you got as they seemed to work? The response I got was somewhat unclear. I think though if you get front rims that fit the original the included bearings will work but if you go with more modern rims you will need new bearings... any clarification on this or should I just watch part 3?
@@GCC13 front wheels from JC racing for a vintage RC10 will fit, remember AE cars used them small wheels bearings - the rears need to be from a B2 - 3/16 to fit. The RC10 (vintage) rear wheels from JC Racing won't fit this FanRC - PS the new rims have arrived so will be fitting these tonight🙏
I can really appreciate the anxiety you must have been through building this kit without instructions. Why would a manufacturer do this? Its insaine.
A couple of interesting videos, I was seriously considering getting one but having watched your videos I'm not sure now, when you take into account the extra cost of wheels and tyres, shock oil and diff /black grease, the kyosho jj ultima seems a better bet
it's a close call of a purchase or not to purchase. I have never built a RC10 "type chassis" yet, so it was an experience plus I am planning to use the car at my local track, once I finish spending more money :o)
@@hunterrider349 I will say the jj goes together like a hot knife thru butter , and is awesome , only reason I am going down the fan rc route is I don’t want to wreck the jj , and my cc isn’t really a race car
@@rexy_yee8431 that's the reason i was interested in getting the fan, I've got a 40th and don't want to ruin it by getting back into racing, i could feel the same way with the jj, decisions decisions
As far as I know , and hoping , the rear wheels are from the b2 not the classic , as the rear shafts are the 3/16 sized ones not the original 1/4 ones , I have both sets of wheels , the classic and the b2 from jcracing , so at least you have confirmed the front wheels are original fits , as for the motor guard , I think you have to have all the other gear box bolts loose , then add the 2 rear bolts , then tighten it all up so it pulls together
@@rexy_yee8431 I’ll try that with the guard and yes you are correct about the rear wheels Ordered some appropriate ones now
Good info to have right there. I was wondering what source I had for some of the things I've been repeating... haha
May be the worlds edition instructions are closer , as looking at fan rc’s bumf a lot of the parts are world parts
yes, I think that's a good call, almost finished mine as a roller,
Just checked the world’s institutions, they suggest you carefully bend the rear plate until it lines up , then it has 2 small washers between the metal
Not sure but I think originally the graphite chassis kit came with a supplement for the stealth transmission. So, any instructions from an rc10, 10T or GT with the stealth transmission should work as a supplement for the transmission part of this build. The original instructions probably include the Gen 1 tranny not the stealth. You can tell by quickly browsing the pics of the instructions. The trans case is different.
I just got my kit. I'm so excited fellas! I was a bit disappointed that there were no instructions, no lubes or fluids. I will be checking for other missing essentials but am still very excited. Looking forward to your build videos.
@@GCC13 part 2 out Saturday 9pm Uk time Found out a lot more since this video I make the mistakes so you don’t have to 🤪
Mine will be here in a few days. Getting excited my fan rc trans was awesome quality .
You have raised a good point about standing on the podium. I find if I end up in an unusual position, it tends to put me off. I usually prefer being in the middle.
Well you have pdf instructions where as I am using you as my instructions 😂 well I will do when I get mine , anyway thanks for the heads up on the imperial tools 👍
Part 2 is done, it'll upload in a couple of days - hope you enjoy the build.....
Too expensive, I understand research and development but I can get a B6.4 , B7 possibly a vintage graphite in the price range of this kit. I like Fun RC is making parts I wish AE would produce.
nice one. I'm looking into this car, looks ok! Good budget option for us to get some new guys into the scene
Yes, I haven't even fired it up, had it for over a year now.......it's on my list of things to do
can i know where you get those tires and rims?
So for the BH Wild One the wheels were from JC Racing and the tyres are from any model store - Schumacher Honeycomb. The BH Hotshot2 are the standard Tamiya Hop Up which is recommended on the side of the box, think they are Duel Block wheels and Tyres
@@racing393 can the wild one super gripper stock tires fit to this JC racing rims?
@@atlantis_d9992 I haven't tried, I'll dig the original Tyres out later today and just offer them up with the JC wheels - then I will repost on here
@@racing393 possible?
@@atlantis_d9992 Hang on.......