I solder stuff, like to code and play around with electronics. Also I play old video games, mostly MS-DOS on my 286 or 386 PC, sometimes on my SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive. I try to use real hardware wherever possible.
New videos posted roughly every weekend.
Bonus channel with raw video game footage: kzread.info/dron/HtVbly1nUcgWp17838HZYg.html
Blog: root42.de/blog
Mastodon: chaos.social/@root42
Twitch: player.twitch.tv/?channel=root_42
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Just found your channel, will watch this video after work. Very cool channel! I am looking into old-school demo effects as I want to make a demo / music disk for the Nintendo 3DS homebrew.
Great idea! Will you submit it to some party? Hope to see it at some point!
@@root42 No, I plan to make it available via the universal updater app, it's sort of the go to app "store" (has only free apps) for 3ds homebrew. Attending a real demo party would be nice too though, my last was in 1999 me thinks. Mekka/Symposium was the name.
Hello, Where this cartridge can be bought? Regards
You can’t buy it, you have to build it yourself. The link to the project is in the video description.
@2:25 What does it mean "only one bitplane is active at a time?". What do we mean by the word "active"? My guess: Only one bitplane can be read/written by the host at a given time.
Yes, exactly. You can write to more than one bitplane at once, but not arbitrary values. However this is quite efficient to do fast screen clearing, as up to four pixels (f the same color) can be written at once.
@@root42 Thank you very much.
I never understood why Mode X was set up using mode 13h as the base. In my program, I used the mode 12h 640x480x16 as a base of mode X. In addition to the palette registers, only 3 other registers needed to be modified and minimal modification to the CRTC. - Has been very compatible, the mode and the program run fine on bare metal DOS boot on 6th generation Intel.
Interesting idea. My guess is that it was assumed that mode 13h has very similar timings and this was more crucial than the bitplanes. But maybe even that is wrong as 640x480 has the same timings as 320x240 except for the pixel clock.
@@root42 I share the code. I have forgotten about the registers, so you have to interpret this yourself. :) mov ax,0012h int 10h mov ax,1002h mov dx,offset dgroup:pal int 10h mov dx,03dah in al,dx mov cx,0200h wait3: loop wait3 mov dx,03c0h mov al,10h out dx,al mov cx,0200h wait: loop wait inc dx in al,dx or al,40h dec dx mov cx,0200h wait2: loop wait2 out dx,al mov cx,0200h wait4: loop wait4 mov al,20h out dx,al mov dx,03ceh mov al,05h out dx,al inc dx in al,dx or al,40h out dx,al mov dx,03d4h mov al,09h out dx,al inc dx in al,dx and al,0e0h or al,01h out dx,al pal db 00h,01h,02h,03h,04h,05h,06h,07h,08h,09h,0ah,0bh,0ch,0dh,0eh,0fh,00h
Thank You great video 💪🏻👍🏻
Finally I found a video that show math applied.
The emu68 1.0 release has come a long way. When I built my PiStorm 3 years ago, I quickly became disappointed because so many of my favorite games had issues with it. Out of frustration, I then purchased an ACA500+. One of my best buys ever. Even though it ran fine at 42MHz,, shortly after I added an ACA1221 just to have the 020 for the games that specifically supported it (like Ambermoon). Two years ago I digged out the PiStorm again for trying the experimental emu68, and it felt already a lot more compatible than the linux based emulator right from the start. And yesterday, I tried the 1.0 release of emu68 and everything I throw at it just works perfectly. All the compatibility issues I had seem to be gone. Absolutely amazing. The only one thing that PiStorm/emu68 is really missing out on is a way to easily switch the emu68 configuration. Right now, you'd have to prepare and swap SD cards with different configs, which kind of sucks. Especially if you have no LazarusStorm adapter. The ACA500+ is -a lot- more versatile in that regard.
I would still recommend the ACA500+ for people who want a „plug and play“ solution. It really „just works“. And the optional A1200 accelerators can take it even further. For everyone who is technically inclined and likes to dabble in the configuration the PiStorm or Lazarustorm is a great option. We currently use the ACA500+ exclusively as our daily driver. Makes playing older adventures from harddisk a breeze. And the stealth mode is awesome for compatibility.
Did you use microscope while soldering?
the exact tutorial i needed thanks
I have just noticed that there is a point and click version of this game at polyplay.
Not sure what this is about -- probably Stefan made another version using the D42 engine? That is menu driven, but still text based.
How on earth did you get the rubber off? I am trying hard but no joy... don't want to cut it but wonder how else it will come out??? Please add this to the video...
Hi. Could you link in the setup files as you've mentioned in the video? Thanks.
You can find all GUS install disks here: www.gravisultrasound.com/installdisks.htm
Hallo. Please, do an alignment how to video. Tchüss!!!!
Okay, will put it onto my todo. I think I showed that in a livestream...
@@root42 Danke mein herr :)
1st lets gooooo
Neat!
I LOVE learning about retro tech! I firmly believe that some of the most clever developers and engineers are people who had limitations imposed on them by the technology of the time! Thank you for making this series and having such easy-to-follow video!!
we couldnt understand anything as the screen is small and typing also not clearly visible😅😅
If people weren’t so greedy I could have my old games again like when I was a kid. But I refuse to pay 20 to 40€ for an old game. It’s not worth even 5€ per game.
Oh, I almost forgot... Will there be other tutorials for PowerBASIC? Thank you very much
Once in a while…
Hi! When I open the file dosline.c and try to run it, I get an error saying 'unable to open include file "types.h", "vga.h", and "pal.h"'. The compiler works with other files I created. What could be the issue? Where am I going wrong? Thanks for your response.
The gist only contains the main program. You can take the missing files from one of my other projects like this: github.com/root42/doslens You will also have to adjust the project file to build vga.c etc
@@root42 tnks a lot for your support!
Awesome! 🤩😎
It is pretty amazing indeed
Hello sir. Can you share the STL File for the Bracket? I think its an amazing 3D project. Or maybe a link where i can purchase the model. Thank you.
It's right there in the github project: github.com/matze79/PS2-Adapter/tree/master/case
@@root42 Oh I understand. I thought it was a different model since the model seen in the video has a bracket to use internally in the PC, I see that it has a bracket to use in an ISA or PCI port. Greetings!!
@@TheWizardHW ah, now I understand. This video is so long ago... it might be that I maybe merged that STL with one of am ISA bracket? Hm, I will have to search around if I still have that STL file!
@@root42 Thank you!!
There is not a single tutorial for REV E board on whole KZread ffs :(
Anything on the web in general? Otherwise make sure to visit the AtariAge forums. I bet someone has done a mod before. Chances are there might be schematics for Rev E boards, so creating a mod should be possible.
no turning on, just taking apart....
Nice job on the 500! My first Amiga was a 500 back in 1989. I still have it in much butchered shape as I modified the case to fit a standard floppy drive. That camera in the brown case reminds me of my first 35mm camera when I was a kid in the '70s. It was a coupled rangefinder Balda with a Baldanar lens given to me by my grandfather. I still have it kicking around here somewhere, but it hasn't worked in nearly 50 years!
Glad you liked it. The A500 is an amazing machine.
The black case looks soooo georgous. 😍
Yes, I am a bit happy that beige was sold out.
Link to the aca500+ case stl please?
Just search on Thingiverse for ACA500+. I used this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5380127
@@root42 seems to be for the newer revision with big dismo, I have the first revision 😔
You can probably adjust the STL or search for another case. I bet someone designed a variant for the smaller dismo.
That's one beautiful A500!
Having different coloured wires would have been really helpful to both you and the viewers! Also, I note that the modification kit you used did not have a "75R" resistor (?). Mine had this, in addition to the 2.2k and 3.3k resistors, along with the transistor. Might this explain the imperfect video signal? I got my kit on Ali Express.
The video is literally 5 years old today. It was an eaaarly video. :) I didn’t buy the kit, but used things I already had. I thought about revisiting this mod, but have been using the Atari Jr much more in the past years, using the tfw8b deluxe composite mod instead. So maybe there IS a mod that will result in better video quality. The 75Ohm resistor might be for proper termination.
A 41 episodes series on software development for msdos?! Thank you so much for making this! This will be invaluable in helping me make the game I wanted to make since 1998!
All the best to your endeavors! Keep us updated!
Holy Moly your channel is awesome! Subbed.
11:48 start of coding
it's divided by chapters
Hi, the system that revives the D500 head is interesting, but could you share the operating scheme of this modification? I would like to bring back my old 1541 with the broken head. Great work, many enthusiasts will be happy with it.
Nope, I haven't designed it and also I'm no electrical engineer, so couldn't even if I wanted to. The author will eventually provide a batch of PCBs and sell those at the price of the BOM over at forum64.de though. Feel free to register there and wait for the order to happen.
I think it is a 2 coil inductor connected to the good side of the read head in parallel. Great idea, I'll try that myself.
thanks for it
for ultimate performance use inline assemby!
kzread.info/dash/bejne/d5x2s9iGiLK6gco.html
Great stream!! These are so much fun.
Very much appreciated, thank you!
I was playing around with developing a new SD card solution that interfaces to one of the VIAs. It is perfect for drives with broken heads. When using it you can get the real heads to move and the real disk to spin but the data comes from the SD card. This way it feels like you are fully using the original drive. Externally you could not tell if the data is coming from the actual disk or the SD card.
There is already a similar solution: github.com/fook42/1541-rebuild But it won’t move the heads I think.
2:15 I'm really surprised that any version of C doesn't have "byte" defined as a type by default, isn't that the most basic type of all?
C stems from an era where machines with 7-bit characters or 15-bit words weren’t unheard of. Yes, power of two based architectures became the norm but wasn’t the only game in town in the 1960s.
@root42 wow thank you, that's a whole side of computing I wasn't aware of.
It's surely not using 12v and 5v. Does it require 5v or 12v?
The c16 was the best looking bread bin ....they wasted their time with the plus 4 they should have just made a 64k c16 with c64 software compatability it should have been a c64 with all the bugs ironed out 121 colours 3 channel audio v 3.5 basic the ted chip is capable of interlacing at 496x320 the demo images are more superior against the c64s limited color they could of easily sold more machines in Eastern Europe and brazil
Yeah the whole 264 series lacked a focused effort.
@@root42 I had a plus 4 it was my 1st never forget mum clocking treasure Island and fire ant
That's running pretty good for a commodore pet, user defined graphics aswell
Actually it’s regular PETSCII. The early PETs have no redefineable character sets.
@@root42 I thought the later pets could just like a zx81
i got that for 1$
If you all would run SysInfo4.4, then we could have an apples to apples comparison.
16:49 Twisting the stepper motor more than the distance covered by a siingle step (i.e. a full half-track) is pointless as the next headbump will reset the adjustment. You need to look at and adjust the track-0 head stop instead.
I think that is what I did in the end. Not sure about the terminology but I adjusted at which point the metal band in the head assembly is attached to the spindle of the stepper. This helped getting the offset of 2 tracks eliminated.
Cool, hopefully many drives can be recovered and work for a bit longer.
You can buy right-angle 4-pin connectors. You could use one as an adapter in between the socket and new circuit to have it lie flat. You should be able to close the case with no soldering or jumper wires if what I see in my mind actually works. A bit of Kapton for insulation at most.
Wow! This is awesome news!! I am a bit of a Commodore floppy addict also, and feel the same way you do. I love putting a demo in and enjoying it. I’m so happy there may be hope for any of my heads that die in the future. I have a couple 1571 also, so hope it does end up working for these drives.
Good stuff. Very thorough review as usual. I have my CBM disk drives tucked away in storage, and at least some of them has the Alps mechanism, but now I'm curious to check if they still work... Do we know this drive head issue only plagues a certain era/type of 1541s, or might affect 1541/IIs, 1551s, 1571s as well?
1541-II are less often affected, but they still have this issue especially for Mitsumi mech. Chinon ones seem pretty reliable. 1571 also have this issue, which is even worse as they are more rare but can be repaired using this method as well. 1551 are basically 1541, so probably same issue
Could you please post a link to the shop selling the Newtronics NOS heads?
They are sold out, sorry. It was PolyPlay
@@root42 Ouch. I guess I'm too late to the party. Do you know where they found the heads and how much they cost? At some point it's probably just cheaper to buy a ALPS drive.