Пікірлер

• 
  @ketvaaАй бұрын

  are there 2 pcv valves?

• 
  @ScottyWrenchesАй бұрын

  There is only one PCV valve. On this particular set-up, Honda placed it directly into the breather box on the back of the engine, which is why it is so often overlooked in maintenance.

• 
  @ketvaa29 күн бұрын

  @@ScottyWrenches found it when i took the whole system apart yesterday, on d15b7 engine the pcv valve goes in a rubber gasket mount thingy sitting right under the intakemanifold and then a tube goes from there directly to the breather box. A hell to screw apart

• 
  @ScottyWrenches16 күн бұрын

  @@ketvaa the d15b7 has a different set up. My video shows the D16Y8. Glad you figured it out on yours!

• 
  @josephl6788Ай бұрын

  if you stopped your temp at mid temp would the arm stop in the middle? I installed a new one and it only has 2 positions, high and low. If I put the temp at say 75 the arm still goes to the low position.

• 
  @ScottyWrenchesАй бұрын

  Short answer is "yes, it will only move part way with middle temp settings." HOWEVER, it sounds like yours has a newer temperature setting that is digital readout, which means the motor will go full open/closed until the set-point is reached, then it will move to the middle position to be a steady state temperature. I don't know that for sure, but that is the only thing that makes sense.

• 
  @JW-zz5wkАй бұрын

  Did this yesterday In my tarago with 2grfe. B1s1 is a bitch in australia as steering shalf gets in the way of this method. But still works but just harder. And you can also disconnect the plug on the top enging bay with batt removed as well, but it will be tight

• 
  @ScottyWrenchesАй бұрын

  Thanks for the input! The right hand drive set-up would be a little different.

• 
  @reidmjАй бұрын

  Were you checking the trans fluid level with the engine running?

• 
  @ScottyWrenchesАй бұрын

  It does need to be checked when the fluid is at operating temperature. Check with the engine running (in Park for safety) to keep the fluid in the torque converter, otherwise, your reading will appear high on the dipstick.

• 
  @famouzamizАй бұрын

  Can you do the driver side, sorry lol

• 
  @nathanheinlein8506Ай бұрын

  Things probably faster the a 98 Honda prelude

• 
  @ScottyWrenchesАй бұрын

  @nathanheinlein8506 I don't believe so...

• 
  @amediocre50282 ай бұрын

  What were symptoms on the car? Any longer cranks to start the car?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches2 ай бұрын

  Van ran fine...no misfires or hesitation. It just had the CEL code. The trouble is that the computer could no longer fix the fuel mixture within the factory parameters, which sets off the code.

• 
  @brianrichards55382 ай бұрын

  PERFECT! Took me 30 minutes. I bought the part (73211) on RockAuto for ~60 with fast shipping.

• 
  @josephl67882 ай бұрын

  I can't wiggle the black tube you took out. Mine is an 05.

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  @ScottyWrenches2 ай бұрын

  You MUST remove the black push peg that is at the bottom near the blower motor before the tube is moveable. Check out video at the 5:00 mark.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches2 ай бұрын

  Also, It looks like the 2005 doe s not have that tube. That started in 2006. I think the blower is directly connected to the evaporator core. The blend actuator should be accessible without having to remove much besides the glove box, according to this pic (LINK) f01.justanswer.com/H0ho0va7/ToyotaSienna.jpg

• 
  @josephl67882 ай бұрын

  @@ScottyWrenches Yes it has the black air tube and yes, I can wiggle is because the black peg has been removed. However, can't take it out.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches2 ай бұрын

  @@josephl6788 You have to loosen the bottom first, then move to the top and wiggly it toward the blower motor, then work back and forth from the bottom then to the top until you can get the bottom moved to the left and the top moved to the right. You should be able to drop it from there

• 
  @chilitoday3 ай бұрын

  I had much less room to maneuver than this shows. The angle of the sensor was tilted more upward leaving less space than this video claims. I had to use a short handled ratchet.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches3 ай бұрын

  Did you use the flex head ratchet? If not, then you WILL NOT be able to angle downward away from the firewall. You would be stuck using the shorter handle ratchet in that case. The FLEX-HEAD ratchet is shown at 1:52 in the video and is one of the "tips" to getting this done easily.

• 
  @nmartin55513 ай бұрын

  Definitely enjoyed video and found info helpful!

• 
  @ScottyWrenches3 ай бұрын

  Glad you found it helpful!

• 
  @alejandrogls00724 ай бұрын

  Hope this solve my problem mine blow cold air driver side and passenger hot air

• 
  @ScottyWrenches4 ай бұрын

  I hope this is a quick solution for you!

• 
  @FrankWalshVideo4 ай бұрын

  Big help, haven't done it yet, but makes me so much better prepared. Outstanding.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches4 ай бұрын

  It's really fairly easy once you get the bar extension along the back of the block toward the passenger wheel well

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  @BlueCollarClub4 ай бұрын

  Good video bud

• 
  @ScottyWrenches4 ай бұрын

  Hope it helped!

• 
  @jordanomoto41354 ай бұрын

  Any idea for this. I have a 2014 sienna 140k miles. Replaced MAF 2 times and now P0171 and P0174. Would replacing this part fix both codes? Or you think it’s the O2 sensors?

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  @ScottyWrenches4 ай бұрын

  It's more likely you have an air leak after the MAF sensor. Check the rubber intake tubing between the MAF and throttle body. That's just my guess with the next on the list to trouble shoot.

• 
  @edwinomarhuizardamian165 ай бұрын

  Today i went to auto zone to buy the part bank 1 sensor 1 changed it but light still on it i reset n came back again..

• 
  @ScottyWrenches5 ай бұрын

  @edwinomarhuizardamian16 What is the code that is read? You need to know why the sensor is misreading. If it's the P0171, check out my other video on trouble shooting that. View that video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZqk2LmCepPZj9Y.html

• 
  @yycgiglife47145 ай бұрын

  Do you have a part number by any chance?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches5 ай бұрын

  Toyota PN 89467-08070 for Bank1 Sensor 1 A/F Ratio sensor

• 
  @yycgiglife47145 ай бұрын

  @@ScottyWrenches I’ve been prying on the tab of the sensor and it won’t seem to come off…is there anything else that I need to do aside from prying the tab with a screw driver?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches5 ай бұрын

  @@yycgiglife4714 Push in toward the sensor with the wire plug, then squeeze the release, then pull back off the sensor. The connectors are made to fit tightly so vibration doesn't cause a disconnection problem, as well as to keep dirt and water out of the connections.

• 
  @chilitoday4 ай бұрын

  @@ScottyWrenchesso this is the b1s1 sensor which everyone calls an O2 sensor but I think it’s more precisely an a/f sensor..air/fuel ratio sensor ??

• 
  @ScottyWrenches4 ай бұрын

  @@chilitodayCorrect, the first sensor nearest the head is always the A/F sensor.

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  @sammiewilkinson40796 ай бұрын

  ✨ Promo`SM

• 
  @vistablue29846 ай бұрын

  Good analysis on the case here where it is only the one bank! It’s frustrating that everyone suggests the MAF sensor, fuel delivery, fuel filter and such which should impact both banks, not just one. And it seems that too many people are quickly blaming the code on the upstream bank one O2 sensor, which seems like “shooting the messenger” instead of pursuing the actual problem.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches5 ай бұрын

  Yep, even when you go to reputable mechanic or the dealer, it can seem like they fire the "parts-cannon" first, then trouble shoot second!

• 
  @vistablue29845 ай бұрын

  Did you use any thread sealant with the new PCV valve? Is it required?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches5 ай бұрын

  @@vistablue2984 no thread sealant required on the PCV valve

• 
  @Jaguarspaw56 ай бұрын

  Are both bank 1 and bank a/f sensors the same?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches6 ай бұрын

  Bank 1 and Bank 2 AF sensors are different. Front (Bank 2) is 18-inch wire length, while the rear (Bank 1) is 7-inch in length.

• 
  @Jaguarspaw56 ай бұрын

  Gotcha thanks

• 
  @willpage797 ай бұрын

  I got p0171 and p0174 should i change the pcv valve?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches7 ай бұрын

  Having both codes means your engine is lean on both front and rear banks. Chances are you have an air leak somewhere between the air filter and the throttle body. My guess would be that one of the black rubber air intake hoses is cracked...the one closest to the throttle body, as that is AFTER the mass air sensor, so that's where you would get "unmetered air" into both banks. But for the extra $10, I'd say do the PCV valve while you're at it (especially if you haven't already replaced PCV)

• 
  @MikeKollin8 ай бұрын

  I just finally cleaned, sealed and replaced all the parts to the Breather Box! Grommet, O Ring, rubber tubes etc etc... Car seems to be running much smoother.and better gas mileage it's a 95 Del Sol, Honda Civic.,.. The Breather box and parts have never been replaced, ever. What does this do for the car when you clean, seal and replace all the parts to the Breather box? Better Gas Mileage, more Horse Power?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches8 ай бұрын

  Mike- PCV and breather box balance pressures from the crankcase (meaning below the pistons) and the head (the space above the pistons). This helps prevent blow-by of oil and reduces some of the inefficiency of overcoming pressure differentials. That is most likely why you see improved smoothness and MPG. When stuck or leaking vacuum, the PCV will also allow more air into the intake possible causing a too lean air-fuel mixture condition.

• 
  @StephenS-sx7wv8 ай бұрын

  Worked perfectly. Used the flex head ratchet and sensor socket and a short length of pipe for torque. First try, no go. Applied WD-40 Rust Release, waited 10 minutes and took almost no effort. Thank you. Clear description of everything.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches8 ай бұрын

  Glad that helped you!

• 
  @VtecFrimzy8 ай бұрын

  What do that that holes do ?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches8 ай бұрын

  Not sure what you are asking. Please clarify so I can help you.

• 
  @king786khan9 ай бұрын

  Ive just replaced my tensioner but i didnt turn it 3teeth. It automatically tensions itself so isit really necessary to turn 3 teeth first? It drives fine

• 
  @ScottyWrenches9 ай бұрын

  Honda Factory Service Manual does NOT mention to go counter clockwise three (3) teeth. This is a practice that I carried over from working with B-Series engines to pull slack out of the "long" side of the belt that runs from exhaust cam to crank pulley. This allows the tensioner to fully tension the belt. If the belt is put on the pulleys in the correct order, then the long side tension should be fine. Sequence for mounting the belt is 1-crankshaft gear, 2-Adjusting Pulley, 3-Water pump pulley, 4- Exhaust camshaft pulley, and finally 5- Intake Camshaft pulley

• 
  @gregjohnson17099 ай бұрын

  I've been battling that exact code for weeks. I checked my pcv valve, cleaned it out and it rattles fine, but I bought another one because they are so inexpensive. No matter what end I blow on or suck on simulating a vacuum, I never get a perfect seal. This is a grand voyager v6 3.3 1997. Just how air tight should they be? The new one is a mopar genuine oem. I was expecting the same result as sucking on a straw with my finger plugging the other end- no air coming through at all.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches9 ай бұрын

  PCV is a one way valve. Air should move toward the vacuum hose and NOT the other way.

• 
  @mhazzard728210 ай бұрын

  Going where others don't go...

• 
  @tsukki_amv284810 ай бұрын

  Did you have to take the passenger tire off to get room with the car on jack stands.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches10 ай бұрын

  I did all work with the tires in place while it was on the jack stands. Even the long lever had room under the wheel:)

• 
  @tsukki_amv284810 ай бұрын

  ​@@ScottyWrenchesI practiced removing the connection from the easy 02 sensor in the front of vehicle and it was somewhat difficult to press the button and have it wiggle out. Hope I don't break something below. Wish me luck.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches10 ай бұрын

  @@tsukki_amv2848 Try squeezing the clip to "unlock" it while pushing it further into the connection, then pullback. They are tight to prevent water from getting in, so sometimes pushing in releases the clip more easily. Best of luck!

• 
  @chilitoday3 ай бұрын

  @@ScottyWrenchesprecisely “what” clip? There are four sides to the coupler. I can’t get the sob to decouple

• 
  @ScottyWrenches3 ай бұрын

  @@chilitoday Should just be able to pinch the clip. One side of the "coupler" has the clip that you pinch. The extension bar goes toward the passenger side wheel well.

• 
  @StuntPilot8810 ай бұрын

  Awesome! great video. I Have searched for weeks and have pretty much watched them all.. and this one is got to be the best showing how is done. Big thanks for sharing! 👍👍👍

• 
  @ScottyWrenches10 ай бұрын

  Glad that it helped!

• 
  @Helloverlord10 ай бұрын

  I've had a D16W5 vtec in 2000 honda hrv, it was a struggle to pull that sucker out as all that space accessible on civics or desols, is populated at hrv bay with pipes, crossmembers and all other crap, this was not an easy job at all...btw part number is 17130-ph1-003

• 
  @Helloverlord10 ай бұрын

  Another thing, as pcv is essentially one way valve, if it's too difficult to remove it, you could test it by blowing air from a hose intake end and it shouldn't get through, but if you suck it back it should, do it by using your lungs not a compressor.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches10 ай бұрын

  I can only speak to the del sol D16Y8. I would imagine that the HRV is tougher with the braces and transfer case for the AWD, all put into a smaller front end. Thanks for the information. The part number does not cross reference for my vehicle (del sol). PS- replacing the grommet is a great idea if it's hardened. The hardened grommet could cause a vacuum leak.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches10 ай бұрын

  That's one way to test it while in place!

• 
  @gorrioncico5 ай бұрын

  Hello. Did you manage to change the PCV of the HRV? I need to change it since the section of pipe is crushed and I will have to do it from the ground, removing the oil filter...I cannot access it well below the intake. Tell me details or tricks to remove it please.

• 
  @Helloverlord5 ай бұрын

  @@gorrioncico I did, barely. Best way is to use two modified flat screwdrivers to pry it, one goes through a hole between 2 i 3 intake other underneat, best to use another pair of hands, remove injectors and as much stuff around the intake to free space, good luck.

• 
  @subarusympathizer11 ай бұрын

  How hard was it to get the PCV valve back in? Been having trouble getting the valve to actually go back into the grommet it sits in.

• 
  @ScottyWrenches11 ай бұрын

  Once the hose is dropped back down in place (with PCV valve attached and clamped), I was able to simply line it up with the grommet and it slid in with little force. Make sure you have it centered...That might be what is holding you up. Otherwise, is the PCV the same diameter? If not, there is NO WAY it will fit.

• 
  @Helloverlord10 ай бұрын

  If grommet is hardened (being for too long there) it's going to be hard one, try putting some grease onto valve end...

• 
  @frias228711 ай бұрын

  Nice job🤝🔥💯💪

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  @relicrsps162111 ай бұрын

  Awesome, im gonna try this soon. Theres oil in the intake manifold.

• 
  @frias228711 ай бұрын

  🤝🤝💯

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  @ScottyWrenches11 ай бұрын

  Easiest to do on your next oil change as the filter will already be out of the way!

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  @frias228711 ай бұрын

  @@ScottyWrenches 🤝🤝💯

• 
  @4TMember Жыл бұрын

  I would just add that because of the fact that we work around grease areas we temp to rubber it on areas that will heat up pretty fast like the exhaust pipes therefore it smog for the first time you start the engine but it’s normal from that grease been burned up.

• 
  @4TMember Жыл бұрын

  I would just add that because of the fact that we work around grease areas we temp to rubber it on areas that will heat up pretty fast like the exhaust pipes therefore it smog for the first time you start the engine but it’s normal from that grease been burned up.

• 
  @racer52online Жыл бұрын

  You just might have provided the solution I needed. I have a 22 year old, 2001 Highlander 3.0 V6, 86,000, miles with a Bank 1, sensor 1 heater error, and with the same dash error lights as yours. . Until this video, I could not find anything that showed how to access this sensor. Everyone shows the easy sensors. I’ll take a look at mine ,but I do suspect it will be the same access method. I’ll order that socket and a sensor! 😊 thank you!

• 
  @ScottyWrenches Жыл бұрын

  I hope that works for you! Let me know if the Highlander is accessible that way.

• 
  @rikkmanvonn3970 Жыл бұрын

  What year is this sienna?

• 
  @ScottyWrenches Жыл бұрын

  2008 in video, but based on looking at Toyota engine schematics, this process should be the same from Model years 2004-2020

• 
  @janicesmyth2183 Жыл бұрын

  thank you so much for the video! It made the most sense and I'll have my grand daughter do this for me.

• 
  @Michael.Vendetti Жыл бұрын

  Maybe include your wife in the video. 😜