Пікірлер

• 
  @graemedawson5162Күн бұрын

  Amazing 5* !

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  @paterpracticusКүн бұрын

  Thanks very much. Glad you liked it.

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  @bigchungus8436Күн бұрын

  This is helpful thanks

• 
  @paterpracticusКүн бұрын

  Great. Glad it helped.

• 
  @DavidCastaldini2 күн бұрын

  Nice job, but you could do it a little differently and possibly easier...1 print a black circle outline as a guide to just cut out the white disc to go behind the coloured clear decal. 2 paint the top of the clear printed decal white and slide on upside down...your decal print is reversed prior to putting on the vehicle. utube videos showed the technique for clear decals on dark back grounds

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  @paterpracticus2 күн бұрын

  Great tip. Thanks.

• 
  @richardroebuck19152 күн бұрын

  Another question. I can already print on transparent vinyl (dark colours anyway) and get good results but the resulting sticker is usually quite thick....I assume the decal material is usually a lot thinner? I've not used them since I was a child (some time ago!) and I remember them being very thin compared to vinyl stickers

• 
  @richardroebuck19152 күн бұрын

  Nice video, thanks. Whereabouts do you get your decal sheets from? I've got an inkjet and you've inspired me to have a go at doing my own decals :)

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  @paterpracticus2 күн бұрын

  You may be able to get them from a craft shop, but failing that they are readily available online - search 'waterslide decal paper'. Just make sure you get the InkJet type. The decal surface itself is very thin, most of the bulk being the carrier paper. Very much like the transfers for Airfix kits etc.

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  @richardroebuck19152 күн бұрын

  @@paterpracticus thanks for the quick reply. I take it if I use an inkjet printer I will have to seal the surface else the ink will run when placed in water?

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  @paterpracticus2 күн бұрын

  Yes, the same acrylic varnish is good for both InkJet and laser printing. You don't actually have to seal laser prints, but it does protect the surface. You definitely have to for InkJet - check out my previous video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dKadrsOfaNrcqZM.htmlsi=H0kPOmzQgri_LegM

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  @richardroebuck19152 күн бұрын

  @@paterpracticus fab thanks, will check out the other vid! :)

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  @davidreynolds96494 күн бұрын

  Excellent. 10 out of 10 Told me everything I needed to know, especially how to see what is running, so confusing till now.

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  @paterpracticus3 күн бұрын

  Excellent. I was really confused when I started using the Pico. Still baffles me sometimes, but it opens up some really exciting possibilities when you get the hang of it.

• 
  @markgb92274 күн бұрын

  Thank you for this guide..

• 
  @paterpracticus4 күн бұрын

  Glad it was helpful!

• 
  @mitraudit_4 күн бұрын

  Can I use an aerosol paint clear coat to seal instead of the one you used?

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  @paterpracticus4 күн бұрын

  Yes you can, but keep the layers light. I’ve found it is easy to over-coat with aerosols, making the ink bleed a bit.

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  @mitraudit_4 күн бұрын

  Thank you ​@@paterpracticus

• 
  @mikemechanic76556 күн бұрын

  Great video - thanks for posting it

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  @paterpracticus6 күн бұрын

  Glad you enjoyed it

• 
  @dyutithakkar63427 күн бұрын

  Where would we get the light?

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  @paterpracticus7 күн бұрын

  I got mine from eBay - search ‘Bosch fridge LED’ - but you can also get them from Amazon or direct from Bosch - although expect to pay a bit more.

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  @marcj36829 күн бұрын

  Thanks

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  @paterpracticus9 күн бұрын

  You’re welcome. Enjoy the extra light!

• 
  @timerskine24912 күн бұрын

  I just can't seem to get the sd card to boot up. I've tried it multiple times exactly like your instructions using a mac. What version Mac os are you using?

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  @paterpracticus12 күн бұрын

  Hi. I’m pretty sure it shouldn’t matter which macOS you’re using. Can I ask a couple of questions: is the Raspberry Pi booting up at all? Or, is it getting half way through and then returning an error? Also which Pi are you using?

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  @timerskine24912 күн бұрын

  @@paterpracticus Thank you for the quick response. No boot at all, the green led just flashes. I'm using a 3b+. Don't give this a lot of thought as I have tried this prior to watching your video after watching many windoze videos with the same results.

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  @paterpracticus12 күн бұрын

  The supported devices (github.com/motioneye-project/motioneyeos/wiki/Supported-Devices) says the 3 B+ is covered with the 20200606 update. Did the basic motioneyeOS folders show up on the SD card when installed? If so, the problem is probably in stage 2 which is the WiFi configuration document. Weirdly this disappears after a failed boot, so that is something to watch out for.

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  @timerskine24911 күн бұрын

  @@paterpracticus Yes I have about 12 files on the sd card after burning. I've been very careful about the .conf and not .txt on the wpa_supplicant file . Appreciate your time with this.

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  @paterpracticus11 күн бұрын

  No problem. After the failed boot is the .conf file still there, or has it disappeared when you put it back in the Mac?

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  @kingjulius245317 күн бұрын

  Ty Bro!

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  @MarianneAbson17 күн бұрын

  Thankyou, quick and easy, saves money, what's not to like 😂

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  @paterpracticus14 күн бұрын

  Excellent! Glad it was helpful.

• 
  @JCD8728 күн бұрын

  I use Ikea Samla storage crates. I collect alot more of junk, wished I could do it in these little boxes lol

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  @paterpracticus28 күн бұрын

  My pile of project boxes is now three times as high! Always slightly surprised how often I get bits out of them.

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  @ttlegends2497529 күн бұрын

  Hi, you're very good, but what computer program do you use to make the dimensions of the decals

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  @paterpracticus29 күн бұрын

  Hi, usually I use Adobe InDesign, but that is expensive software, so I have worked out a good way to use the more common Microsoft PowerPoint for layouts: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Zo5ozdOLgpTNn5s.htmlsi=bEbmr9w8y0skSgds

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  @ttlegends2497528 күн бұрын

  @@paterpracticus Thanks bro👍

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  @paterpracticus28 күн бұрын

  @@ttlegends24975 pleasure

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  @agastyasingh6486Ай бұрын

  good morning sir We are some students from standard 12th in India We need some assistance as we are making a Smart City Project and are participants for a national TechFest We need some assistance from you and will be greatly indebted to you sir Thank you sir From the students Seth Anandram Jaipuria School

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Happy to help if I can.

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  @esra_erimezАй бұрын

  Very informative and interesting. Thank you.

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Glad it was helpful!

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  @DimetropteryxАй бұрын

  Very useful. If I may share a trick of my own, you can use a word processor for the images if you don't have anything else available. They typically let you scale images with the accuracy of a millimeter or tenth of a millimeter, and will actually print the correct size.

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Indeed. I have found that PowerPoint is actually surprisingly good for layout design: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Zo5ozdOLgpTNn5s.htmlsi=6_wb0x7QVWL-TFt8

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  @robertmort5994Ай бұрын

  convenient that you chose a white object and black letters. Different completely if it has a darker background and light coloured letters!

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  True enough. In this video I really wanted to focus on the application process and differences between inkjet and laser. However, I do address colour printing - with white backgrounds for darker surfaces - in another one: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oIKDtsmvh7rUcc4.htmlsi=zw0VBRbCLbEfiMzx which I hope you’ll find useful.

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  @robertmort5994Ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticus Yes that is more balanced. The quailty of the result is dependent on several things such as matching the background colour, the opaqueness of the print and the whiteness of the film.

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  @@robertmort5994 opacity is pretty good. The tricky bit is obviously matching background colour etc.

• 
  @scottwood6024Ай бұрын

  I just ran into this issue ,I thought it was something I did will be pulling mine apart tomarrow .thanks so much I didn't want to have to send it bac and wait to get a replacement.

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Good luck. I guessed I might not be the only one. It isn't difficult, but does take a little while. Creality confirmed it does not affect the warranty, so go for it!

• 
  @JCD87Ай бұрын

  Oh side note: You need to shift the LED housing (acrylic) to the left first to dis-engage it from the connector in the fridge. Then proceed with yanking your creditcards between it ;-)

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Indeed, I've found this out from other comments. As you can see, it does work without, but definitely better if you do.

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  @JCD87Ай бұрын

  Yeah that just happened, fridge from 2018... and my LED died. Thanks for the information on how to remove it properly. Bosch made an additional 12 euro from me ... AliExpress has them as well, but they charge more :)

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  @raymtleeАй бұрын

  Can hou use a colour laser printer ?

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Yes, you can use colour ink jet and laser printers. I do just that in a follow up video - kzread.info/dash/bejne/oIKDtsmvh7rUcc4.htmlsi=1tAfEOnkIer3P86K - also showing how to combine white and transparent decals for dark surfaces.

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  @ahmetbasaran2326Ай бұрын

  Süper

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Thank you. Glad it helped.

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  @rom20mk7Ай бұрын

  I broke my SR/SL/leds cable because it didn't come out "really easily, just sitting on the contacts" I admit that I did not have to pull too hard But anyway, that was the old part and I'll receive the new part on Saturday and try again 👌

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Glad you’ve got a new part coming. At least you now have a feeling for the process and hopefully all will go well.

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  @rom20mk7Ай бұрын

  I finished the process and it works as new! Plugging the cable was a bit of a challenge but I got it! Thank you!

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Excellent! So glad you made it. Doesn't it make you feel good?

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  @rom20mk7Ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticus Haha feeling like a tech man 😎 That's nice that thank to you we can make economy and ecology by fixing it instead of throwing it away!

• 
  @jeremynorman1330Ай бұрын

  Thank you so much. Well explained and photographed.

• 
  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Great! Glad it was helpful. I'm planning a follow-up with a simple 'how to add directional lights' guide - slightly more straightforward than my full DIY Class 33 headcodes video (kzread.info/dash/bejne/a4eYw7OYpditZKg.htmlsi=hTD_KtrM639fClyg).

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  @franzbrunner499Ай бұрын

  it looks kind of easy, and therefore i'm sure its difficult and needs lots of finemechanical skills (which i don't have) well done, looks perfect at 7:26 you bring the 2 halves together and i noticed half#1 has a dowel with the nose and a dowel with the "hole" -obviously half#2 has the same dowels at opposite position -is there a specific reason for that? could be one half with 2 "nose" dowels, the other half with 2 "hole" dowels, right? thank you

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Yes, you can fit both dowel pairs the same way round, it doesn’t really make any difference. Just make sure you don’t get one pair nose to nose. In terms of skill, as mostly things like the rail aligners are fitted in the ‘assembled’ state, the fit isn’t left to chance, and you’ll know they line up when the sections are re-assembled.

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  @mrab4222Ай бұрын

  For wire stripping I recommend automatic wire strippers. Much nicer than those where it's up to you to pick the correct slot!

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  I’ll have to look out for some of those. Once set up, mine are pretty good, but anything that makes it easier is worth a try.

• 
  @JM-gh5spАй бұрын

  Super cool 😎🚂🚂

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Cheers!

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  @ellisredjohnstrains2371Ай бұрын

  Nowt wrong with Lima loco's. I have several that I have converted to 8-pin DCC and also added additional pick-ups and they run just as well as the more recent expensive offerings. Another advantage with older models is that you can add as much detail as you want.

• 
  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Absolutely! The old Airfix, Mainline and even some of the Hornby/Tri-ang ones also make for great projects.

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  @StBlazeyModelWorldАй бұрын

  Fabulous video. Clear, concise and really helpful to anyone doing that job for the first few times :)

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Thank you! Much appreciated,

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  @fellowmemer5693Ай бұрын

  Bro who's even disliking this video? It's incredibly well made. I am impressed!

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Really appreciate that. Glad you found it useful.

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  @fellowmemer5693Ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticus I was able to repair the joycon with your tutorial! Minor thing, when I attach it to the switch, the switch doesn't detect it. I am able to connect wirelessly. I am not as good as you at DIYing but I thought I did a fine job at it

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Is the joy con charging? If not, check that the other cable (6:31) is plugged in properly. That might be also why it isn’t being detected.

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  @fellowmemer5693Ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticusthat was the problem, wow you’re good. One of my screws is stripped so I’m going to wait for one of my mates to come take that one screw down so I can fix the process. You don’t happen to also know where to buy replacement screws? Thanks for all the help mate!

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Great! Glad it helped. Not sure where to get the screws, but should be ok with just 3.

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  @Filip-qc4oxАй бұрын

  Did you disconnect the battery or is it fine staying connected whilst doing the repair?

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  I didn’t and it was fine for me.

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  @xxwolfxxzaАй бұрын

  Is the printer different for this? Is it possible with a normal printer?

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  No special printer required - just a completely normal inkjet or laser printer.

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  @RoccosStuffАй бұрын

  Very clever, well done!

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Thank you! Cheers!

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  @audioreviews7517Ай бұрын

  thanks for the information I'm about to get my first 3d printer and I was wondering if something like this wold be useful.

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Not something you’ll need straight away, but worth considering - particularly with less expensive printers - where coaxing a little bit of extra performance really helps.

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  @prudencioplata181Ай бұрын

  what can i do? i want to print white letters

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Rewatch the end of the video and you’ll see you can print a similar colour to the background around your white lettering, which will mostly blend in. Not perfect, but you can get a pretty good match.

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  @lindawilson989Ай бұрын

  oh my god I never knew...we got someone to clean them when he cleaned the roof

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  Delighted to have helped.

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  @osmanpasha_diyАй бұрын

  Didn't see any difference after 2nd phase...

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  @paterpracticusАй бұрын

  The second overlay sorts out the edges of the decal, from my roughly cut circle to an accurate edge. The centre part stays much the same - which is what we want.

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  @Criselyon2 ай бұрын

  This is so well explained and clear, thank you so much! I managed to fix both my controllerd easily!

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  Excellent. It is really important to me that my films are clear and comprehensive, so I'm really pleased you found it helpful.

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  @HonthaVinber2 ай бұрын

  The idea is great - maybe the babysitting could be eliminated even on longer prints if it was atached to the x axis gantry? that way it would rise up along with the extruder

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  I had thought of that, but there didn’t seem to be any point at which to easily attach it. I was also concerned that adding anything to the moving parts might upset the mech. So the side frame seemed safest. Even then, it only really needs to be moved up during the tallest of prints.

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  @HonthaVinber2 ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticus Fair points. Best I can think of is copying what they did with the drag chain I used on my printer, which can be attached via the m3 screws on the bottom of the extruder motor. here's the drag chain i'm talking about: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5205630

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  @AmirKhan-qx2lr2 ай бұрын

  😅 3:19 " sideways on i get better access for dropping in my nuts"

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  @aronjaeger2 ай бұрын

  deez nuts

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  @locorocohui2 ай бұрын

  my man consider doing a pressure advance calibration on your printer. you have slight signs of it in your prints! nice vid

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  Not sure what that is, but I’ll definitely find out. Thanks for the tip.

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  @buildtestbuild2 ай бұрын

  Cool project! FYI, most slicers can add "pause" gcode commands at specific layers. I've done it with prusa slicer and on a Creality CR10. I know the printer firmware has to support the command as well, and I don't know if the firmware on the Ender shown supports it or not, but you can change the firmware on an Ender if it comes to that. If you put the pause command in the slicer or even in the gcode file yourself, when the printer gets to that point it will pause without you having to watch it like a hawk. This makes it so much more convenient to embed magnets, nuts, or other things inside a print. Another thing you can do instead of the "pause" is to insert a color change (I believe that's M600) which is intended for you to swap the filament while the printer is paused. Of course there is no need to swap the filament and you could just embed your object and tell it to resume. I didn't hear you make mention of it, so I wanted to make you aware of it in case it helped you out in your project!

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  I had read up about that, but wasn’t sure if the Ender (being kinda basic) would be able to do it. Actually, the manual pause worked pretty well and with a 2 layer window, accuracy wasn’t a big deal.

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  @SoloGamingZA2 ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticus Yes the Ender 3/3pro do support pause at layer height within Slicers, I have done it about 5 years ago when I used Cura (Always hated that slicer never had any good prints from day one on multiple printers. Prusa Slicer is a way better Slicer than Cura with better and more advanced features and print for print back to back prinyts between same model with same settings on Cura with no changes to the printer the ones on Prusa slicer always comes out better.) With the Prusa modifiers you can select areas in a print you want to print with different infill % and patterns and even different types of material like PLA and TPU and even print at different speeds at certain areas or even printing multiple objects on the plate each with its own infill and speed or nozzle temp settings and save it all in one GCODE. That is how I make phone cases out of PLA and TPU in one print in one gcode without needing to sit and time everything as the printer will let me know when the next step is available.

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  That is all really helpful. I must delve more deeply!

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  @ket79262 ай бұрын

  There is no point in using 100% infill ever (maybe if you really want the weight) To make the parts stronger you can do more perimeters and do 50% or less infill The weakest point will always be the layer lines adhesion. With 100% infill you're just extending the prunting time by a lot and wasting filament

• 
  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  In my case, the walls are only a few mm thick, so not much wasted with 100% infill. But, still experimenting on other jobs. 40% seems to be a sweet spot.

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  @KevinMullett2 ай бұрын

  Nice straightforward explanation. You came up in suggestions. Here's a well earned comment. 👍

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  Thank you.

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  @CuttinInIdaho2 ай бұрын

  you can also bury magnets and thin strips of steel and totally cover them. Making a case that has an inner lip, and magnets around the perimeter would make a clean, fastener-less design.

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  Great idea. But guessing they can’t be too deeply embedded in the print to stay working.

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  @CuttinInIdaho2 ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticus exactly right

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  @Projectt8082 ай бұрын

  What’s your printer?

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  My inkjet printer is a Canon ip7250. It’s quite old now, but still going strong.

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  @Projectt8082 ай бұрын

  @@paterpracticus is it inkjet or laser? And also is it only black and white? Thanks for reply bro

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  @paterpracticus2 ай бұрын

  That one is a colour inkjet printer, but my logo is only black and white, so I could have used a single colour printer.