Architectural Sheet Metal 101
Architectural Sheet Metal 101
Welcome to Architectural Sheet Metal 101, your one-stop-shop for mastering the art of exterior sheet metal installation. With over 19 years of hands-on experience, we're here to guide you through the intricate world of sheet metal work. Dive into our comprehensive tutorials, learn about the best tools in the trade, and gain insider knowledge that will save you time and money on your projects. Whether you're a seasoned professional or a curious beginner, there's always something new to learn in the ever-evolving field of architectural sheet metal. Don't forget to subscribe and join our community of sheet metal enthusiasts. Let's build something amazing together!
#asm101 #alexprothmann #standingseammetalroof #sheetmetal
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That was a fun vignette into your head. Good luck. You’ll get through it. Persistence always wins.
Great stuff. Appreciate you filming this and sharing it. Keep up the great work, I hope you’ve gotten more recognition for your hard work.
Seems like they are using roll up doors for roofing material.
Can it cut 29 gauge steel roofing sheets? Most snips can't cut that thick. With most snips I've tried, I can only get a couple inches into it and it can't cut any further, I guess due to the shape or design of the snips. I'll try it, thanks.
This will cut 24 g
Are those just the metal from overhead doors like for a shop??
Maybe eh
Looks great! vertical siding in any material is the most labor intensive and time consuming to install and being metal siding here just compounds that. Thanks for the content, I was glad to see the finish line on this one for you.
Great job, great tips once again! You seem to be using the Wuko kit 6200/4040 Uni Bender. I would like to know if it works properly. I've been told by a sheet metal worker that those Wuko tools were not that great and that it was very difficult to fold the sheet metal. He even told me that it was almost impossible to fold standard 26 gage Galvanium. What do you think? If I buy this kit, will I be able to fold the male and female crease on a 10 feet panel and this for an entire roof? Thanks!!
If your doing multiple long straight Lengths get this combo set www.stortz.com/product/wuko-7200-4000-combo/
@@asm101 Ok thanks!
I purchased this tool, absolute shit
Agreed
Is that a wrapped rake board with a 90° turn out at the top, then the Roofing panel has a loose hem and is snapped back into the rest of the Roofing system? I couldn’t see the detail
I use a starter that goes up the gable and then turn a loose hem on the panel to hook onto it
un bon cyclone et tout s'envole
Wtf drip should have went under the layme t
The end grain of the plywood needs to be protected whether that with the starter or with the underlayment
Have you ever had any leaking issues installing the ridge cap first? Really like how you install this way, looks to be so much easier installing this way than what I’m used to. We use z lock.
Nope no issues...4/12 slope and steeper though
@@asm101 thanks so much for the reply. Your work is amazing! Love your videos!
@@DanielWest-zu4op no problem more to come. be well my friedna nd thanks for watching
A couple little strips of pipe insulation aka donkey dick works good on the ladder to prevent scratching gutters or the eave
Do you use ide and water on bottom or do you put your under payment over it thaanks
I&W on top of the starter is my go to if not zip tape connecting trim to underlay
Links to everything else linktr.ee/asm101.com
А ещё меньше по размеру можно? А то очень хорошо видно, прямо на весь экран.
Can we get a short of your favorite tools? Or sets of tools for certain variations of work? Keep up the great work
Head to our home page and go the links and there is a downloadable list there of our essentials
So normally ive always cut down metal with snips, but this guy im helping out with a bigger commercial job tends to like to use a grinder for its ease of cutting. Cutting with a grinder is no bueno right? Whenever hes cutting them down he uses them but when i do, i always use my snips. Time difference in cutting is very minimal, like maybe 30 seconds. Am i in the right? Done it for quite a few years but theres always the one guy to use a grinder. Mind you we typically use 24 gauge prepainted steel. But use 18 gauge galvanized for like strapping on walls for cladding when we need to install insulation
abbrasion cuts compromise the coatings of the steel and leave raw mild steel open to the elements which will rust...the type of cut snips provide is called a "shear cut" which pinches off the end of the material better protecting the mild steel from being exposed
I'm crying right now😢😢😢😢😢😢😢❤the dog
Who is the song by?
No clue
Bought one, just tried this morning, it’s so hard to cut for the roof sheets.
why didnt you dabricate that in the shop?? cleaner and quicker
Not quicker
Great set-up! Is it only used to go to the top of the roof or it is actually used to work from the ladder? And what was the pitch of that roof, it seemed to me at least a 10-12. Greetings from Québec, I thought you were an american!
no you can use to work on a roof for sure
I just did a whole bunch of rubber roll flooring so I can only imagine how satisfying this is on a roof with all the time it saves out in the sun
This what I've been talking about for years. Solid sheet of metal, not 3 ft pieces!
Less seams is always a good thing
@@asm101 Amen! Only way!
Well to be fair I’d still take the extra seams over shingles. Fire is a real thing here.
@christophersines8238 I don't use shingles nor do I install them... Just a hassle for nothing... But again, that's just my opinion...
Where can I purchase this metals?
Not your local hardware store
A lot better than walking behind one them small heavy ass seaming machines
Yep
Is this all 16oz copper you’re using?
20
Hello great job! Your videos are very informative. Could we do the same pattern on a dormer window for instance?
100% you could
@@asm101 Awesome thanks!!! 👍
Hi
Hi
www.stortz.com/. Search “speedy seamer” and use free shipping code ASM101 at checkout
That's worthless
Prove it
Neat looking stuff for soffit.
Yes definitely a higher end product
I have a 10’ tapco and it’s so old you can’t see the numbers on the order of folds and found your channel to remember the order. Thanks for sharing!
Man, you use AI to make clips and just use the AI generated title... And it never shows what the title is talking about...
🤷♂️ I’ll change it up for ya my friend
Head to www.stortz.com to get yours. Search M.A.S.C. SEAMER
Is this detail possible with 24 gauge painted steel? btw -very cool video thanks!
Yes but it would have to have a larger radius for the sweep. 24 g doesn’t stretch very well. It ends up cracking
Thank you so much, very well explained and detailed.
Did you order the sheet metal pre bent? Or did You start off with a flat sheet and bend The j mold into it? If you ordered it where did you order it from?
You can do it yourself by renting a brake from Home Depot and buying the coil aluminum there as well. I need to do a video on that
We love Hans. His son Karl is a gem too.
Thats cool, way better looking than a transition metal flashing there
Great content shoutout fr KOA metals inc
I love my Beran snips we have all of em too
At a ridge line , down 12 inches, there is a slight change in pitch of the roof deck it's about 1 inch. Then, as you follow the roof it fades back and the ridge is in line with the deck. So not all the panels along that area would have to be conditioned. I wonder how this would look? Do you sell those tools? Thank you
Thanks for watching ... probably not. best to practice a bit first before doing the final to make sure your good...heres my tool list download with most of the essesntials geni.us/buying-guide
@asm101 Thank you, I'm going to take my time. It's my own house. I think I figured it out just by watching videos here. Starting at the ridge all the way to the eave, there is a difference in the decking because the ridge beam had a slight sag. So the centerline of the ridge beam is now centered, but the plywood is slightly higher in the center over about 20 feet across a 42 ft ridge. The line at the ridge is totally level. So, I'm thinking all I need to do is use 1 x as a spacer or shim under that section where it's lower. Because if it were to be fastened down the way it is, the panels would buckle. I know this sounds ridiculous. And I believe there is a way to correct this. And now I see it. I've never installed a standing seam metal roof, but I'm no stranger to doing it right. Like I said, the ridge plywood is level all across. it's just about 12 inches below that there is a dip in the roof. It's not noticeable, but I can't just install it to the deck. I'm going to have to shim or batten that area first. I'll use Mason line and get a grid going and flatten it out. Everything is a lot of work.. maybe even some of those high cleats might work just for that area to hold the panels level from eaves to Ridge? I used sharkskin SA over the whole deck. Thanks for your reply 👍
Excellent!!
Lol
That break is ❤