I've been building knives and blacksmithing for years, and I’m loving every minute of it. I've decided to take two of my passions, blacksmithing and photography, and share whatever knowledge I have. Please don't hesitate to ask questions, I am here to help!
I shoot and edit all of my own content, so please let me know what you'd like to see! Feedback is welcome and I hope you enjoy.
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Website: hathenbrucksteelworks.com. Follow me on Instagram and Facebook. Links below.
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Amazing!!!Excellent taf,vraiment!!!
Thank you! 😊
Veerrrrrrry interesting…. I too am losing my love for my 12 ton… Doesn’t have any umph on things thinner than 1/2” And in final stages of forging I’m switching the dies back and forth almost every heat and it’s maddening.
We’re on the same exact boat. After doing my last cu mai billets, I made the decision to get this.
impressive piece of machinery, that will speed up your work processes for sure
I’ll be using it tomorrow, so here’s to hoping it’s everything I think it is. 😂
Couldn't agree more about the dies in the 12 ton; they are an impediment to my processes! One accessory I bought for my 12 ton that has made a huge difference for me is the foot pedal; I like having both hands free to manipulate the billet. Don't know if Clark offers that for this machine, but if they do it's well worth having.
That’s good info. I’ve never used the foot treadle. I didn’t see anything like that on his site, so he probably doesn’t offer it.
I just bought the 40ton from Clark. It’s a beast! I’ve had zero issues.
That’s great to hear. I kinda wish I’d gone bigger, but I think I’ll be perfectly happy with the 25 ton.
Good review.. instructions on his website
I appreciate that. Thanks for the info.
I apologize if I missed it in the video. But I was curious how much you had in it after the dies, shipping and everything.
It’s all good. I got an extra set of dies, so all in was $4900
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks man that’s not bad at all. I am still using my log splitter press. It works but eventually I will need to upgrade. Mine just isn’t square enough. Thanks for the video
@4wknives yeah, it’s a very fair price. Sure thing. I’ll probably do another video after I’ve put this thing through its paces.
Good luck with ir
Thank you.
I think its great what you are doing on Instagram showcasing other makers. Ive been trying to follow as many other makers as I can find lately. Congrats on the press man! Someday Ill get a 25 ton too.
I really appreciate you! Thanks a ton for this. I feel like it’s up to us to support our community as much as we possibly can. I’ve found a lot of great makers just by others sharing their accounts, so it’s my turn. I’m going to try and keep it going by sharing at least one per day. Thanks a million, Mark!
Funny cause this was the press I was going to buy before my coal 12 ton. I messaged you and you said how pleased you were with the 12 ton. The Clark press was having supply chain issues at the time and too be honest the owner wasn't really great to deal with at the time at least. Don't get me wrong I love my 12 ton and have no regrets but when I upgrade the tonnage down the road I woukd also be looking at clark once again. I'll tell ya this though the price has jumped, I believe it was 3500 delivered a few years ago. Hope the old man that builds these has gotten a little better with customers. The one thing about coal iron is their customer service is fire. Looking forward to more videos featuring the press.
I love this comment. Yeah, the 12 ton is still great, and I don’t plan on selling mine. Coal Iron is definitely amazing to deal with, no doubt about it. I’ve chatted with Clark a few times, and to me he’s been pretty pleasant. When I get my induction forge, it’ll be through Coal Iron. I truly hope I didn’t come across as having any sort of ill will toward Coal Iron, because I have none. I just know that a lot of makers don’t have endless amounts of cash, so these sort of deal are worth making the community aware of. I’ll be forging some billets with this machine today, and I’m excited to put it to work. Again, thanks a ton for your insight!!
@Hathenbrucksteelworks definitely didn't come across as having ill will. I'm glad you bought the Clark cause there really isn't anything out there on those and I know you will make content around it and also be honest of it's short comings(if there are any). I was looking at his ribbon burners but he has no info or price available on his site. That will probably be my next major upgrade and I'd like another affordable option aside from The Apollo. Look forward to your next video and congrats on the upgrade
@TheMotownPhilly thank you. I’ll definitely be honest. I think it’s one reason why I couldn’t take free tools from people like Brodbeck and Ameribrade. I wouldn’t be able to take their tools and just tell everyone how amazing they are, I’d have to be honest and let people know that they have their flaws. I’m not sure how much his forges are, but I did get the Apollo, and I’m pretty happy with it. The gas usage from the ribbon burner is significantly less, which is a big to me.
@Hathenbrucksteelworks oh yea propane usage... I bought a atlas forge the xl and I use that when possible but all venturi burners go through it. I'm not super impressed with the atlas I woukd have been better off saving for an Apollo.
I can’t say I know anything about the Atlas, but I’d recommend the Apollo for sure.
Magnifique couteau
Thank you!!😊
hat handle wood looks really cool, excellent choice
Thank you, Andy. I love bright colors, so I was happy when they requested this. 😁
I'ma be honest that rat tail is horrible
You’ll have to explain rat tail to me. I have no idea what that is 😂
I would love to see a video on the press you got looked small and strong
It’s a good press for the price. I have a couple videos about it. They’re kinda old, so maybe I should make some new videos.
starting to look really good
Thanks a ton, Andy.
Which Shirogami is it? There's Shirogami 1, Shirogami 2, and Shirogami 3
This is 1
I really enjoyed watching your technique. Thank you for making the video.
Thank you very much. I truly appreciate that!!
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks It is always helpful to absorb another smith's ways. I've learned more watching others than I have doing anything else.
I agree completely. It’s always nice when you see something that clicks and will work with your style.
This has little to do with forging.
Not only does this video have little to do with forging, it has nothing to do with forging. In this series, there is a little bit of forging so I figured it was a valid hashtag. Thank you for sharing your astute observation.
what do you use for dies?
To keep the wood submerged?
Coloring dies?
Ohhh. Sorry about that. I use Cactus Juice and their dyes. He changed the formula and now if it touches my skin it makes me itchy, so I need to try something else. It’s been about a year or so since I’ve done any stabilizing.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks okay, thank you for your reply, you do great work
It’s my pleasure. Thank you!!
Im asking this in good faith. Why do you forge the blank if youre going to be removing that much with a bandsaw?
Basically trying to forge close enough to shape that I don’t waste the entire billet and also I have some lines in the Damascus that I wanted to keep centered, so I didn’t want to forge completely to shape.
I was going to ask this too. 👍@@Hathenbrucksteelworks
I was thinking about it, and this might be the billet I needed to get some length on because I used the end of the billet and there were some cold shuts on the end that I needed to get past. I definitely wanted to do minimal forging to shape due to keeping lines centered in the billet.
감사합니다.
Thank you!!
lot of steel there
Too much, after a few heats and it’s 3’ long. 😂. It gets a bit heavy.
This video was hiding from me. Saw it in a more recent video and loved the idea, thanks for making the build of it. Very cool idea. Might have to invest the time to make something similar. 👍
Thanks Shaun. This, and my sandpaper cutting jig are two things that I use a lot.
looks awesome
Thank you, Andy.
big billet coming up
Hahaha. Always larger than I want.
Crazy wit all the technology and kno how we can’t match some of the shit that’s been out there without the use of welders and torches/burners
Some people can, but personally, I don’t understand why anyone would want to do things the way they were done hundreds or thousands of years ago. Technology has advanced, so we might as well use it.
That construction of frame tang is sweet!
Haha. Thanks man. I was kinda surprised that I made it work.
Excellent video Sir. Keep it up.
I appreciate that. Thank you!
I really liked that, well done.
Thank you!! 😊
Incroyable. Awesome. Real style.
Thank you!!
How do you like that table top milling machine? How hard of a hit on the wallet was it?
I actually like it quite a bit. It’s changed the way I do a few things, and it’s definitely opened up more possibilities for me. I think this guy was around $1500, so somewhat affordable. If I was to do it again, which I might, I’d probably go a step up and get a Precision Matthews mill. Something with a little bit larger table and a little more solid. All in all, for smaller work, this thing is great.
You just free handed that fuller that clean? 😮
Hahaha. Thanks, Shaun. Yeah, I try to do as much as I can without jigs. I feel that free handing things allows for more options, so I do it as much as I can in hopes of getting better. I’ve definitely made my fair share of mistakes. Hahaha.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks I mostly free hand too for same reasons, with wildly varying results, haha
Hahahaha. I understand that completely.
Very nice wa handle I like the color choices all said Very beautiful gyuto 🙇♂️🙇♂️🙇♂️
Well thank you very much 😁. I appreciate you.
Very impressive beautiful work.
Always appreciated. Thank you
Very nice work the gyuto is coming along very nicely I also use kata=forms or templates in my work aswell. I'm pretty sure you already know this however if you cut the tip at a angle and forge the it back to the spine it will eliminate the fish lips problem i don't know if this is of any help. I look forward to the finished peice and thanks for sharing your technique with us all godbless and good health.
Thanks a bunch. For sure, that’s a good bit of advice. I appreciate the comment 😁
I am glad to be of assistance 🙇♂️ i am on your 3rd gyuto video. You have done a great job. Thanks for sharing.
Do you do your own wood stabilizing or do you have people you get your supply from?
I do my own stabilizing, although I haven’t stabilized in a few years. I had to make space for more important tools, so I’ve put stabilizing on the back burner for now.
Hands down my favorite bladesmithing channel. It’s actually content instead of some stupid ad and music and 2 minutes of half assed forging then a clip of the finished product.
Oh wow!!! Such a great compliment. I’m trying to find that balance of applicable content in a timely manner. I feel like I’m getting better, so I truly appreciate your this comment. Thanks a million.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks thanks for sharing and teaching. I’ve learned quite a few tricks following along. Thank you 🙏
Absolutely my pleasure. Thank you!!
useful video and the tongs mostly seem well useful, especially as a set for a beginner, might just grab myself a pair
For the most part, they’re great tongs. They just don’t work so well for steel sizes they say they’re made for. Hahaha.
going to look great when it is finished
Thanks a ton, Andy!
I really hate having hot steel fly out of tongs that weren't holding it well enough! Sounds like the Vevors might be an option, given their cost, to buy with the expectation of modifying them to fit the stock I'm working with at the time, and if it screws up the tongs, oh well.
Same here. It gets really frustrating. Yeah, they’re some pretty solid tongs. Definitely not the best you can get, but for the price they’re hard to beat.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks in my experience, almost every pair of pre-made tongs needs to be adjusted to the size of the material you're going to use, no matter what size they are supposedly made for. Just heat them up, grab your stock with them, hammer the bit to fit the material tightly, heat up again, and quench in the appropriate medium (these are allegedly high Carbon, so I'd go with a fast oil just to be safe, but most tongs are mild to low, so water them). I wouldn't blame any tongs for not fitting my stock fresh out of the box... that's just to be expected.
@stevealford230 oh for sure. I have a few tongs that have been perfect without any modifications, but I’d say most have needed a tweak or two.
Thanks for the tong review. Hard to beat the price, since it’s essentially 4 for the price of 1.5ish… hmmm
My pleasure. Thank you! Definitely hard to beat.
Definitely solid advice about not letting things get too far gone. I’ve tried and failed trying to move bolster back to spine. Just too much meat at a certain point
Aside from hitting the wrong part of the steel, I think it’s one of the most important aspects of forging an integral.
Safety wire will solve this bolt problem, a hole in the head to run it though is the standard method. You might get away with wrapping the head with a tight twist and going to the other bold the same way position so the counter unscrewing. McMaster sells the wire in different wire size. Safety wire plyers are the best method for doing that suff. Cheers!
Thanks for that. I was thinking about this at one point, but ended up not wanting to drill the holes and all that. I cleaned up all the threads really well and used a ton of thread locker and that seemed to do the trick, for a while. These bolts need a somewhat constant re-tightening due to the wear plates.
I appreciate this info. The funny thing is I recently got turned on to McMaster, and I wish I’d heard of them sooner.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks One more idea, with the blacksmith tools you have and talent take a washer large enough and slam a hex into it to fit the bolts add a hole in that and safety wire that together. Just a thought. Cheers!
Wow... Its clear you have absolutely no idea what you are talking about when it comes to tongs. Tongs are made for 1 size, thats why they are sold in measurements.. smh.. You dont adjust tongs. You buy or make a pair that exactly fits the metal you are holding. You tried to put a 2 inch wide peice of steel in a pair of tongs meant for holding a small tang. And think they dint work... Lmao you literaly just showed how little you understand one of our most fundamental tools. Sad really.
I've tried integrals before, but they where always like 1/2 inch thick or barley noticable, but I'm definitely going to be trying again
They’re definitely not the easiest. One or two miss hits and it ends up not being an integral anymore. Hahaha.
When you hit your hardened blade with your tungsten point hammer to straigthten it up, you are strain hardening it. That is why you get wierd etching marks. Be careful with this technique, i personally don't do it because you can see it when the straigtened part is polished. Thanks for the video, very informative as always !
Thanks for the info. Someone on IG mentioned that it might be work hardening the steel, which it sounds like that’s definitely the case. I won’t do it on my hamon blades anymore, but I’ll still do it on my regular satin finished blades. I don’t do polished blades, so I’m not worried about that part. I appreciate you. Thank you!!
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks what i do is that i clamp my knife on a steel plate in order to bend it straight and then i temper my blade in an oven. And it gets straight. I am gonna send you a video on Instagram because i find it difficult to explain.
That’s my first approach to removing warps, but it doesn’t always work.
not tried that yet, mind doesn't really fit with what I do anyway lol
Hahaha. It’s a fun process.
Anyone else thought it sounded like a Minecraft wooden door opening 😂
😂😂
what is MInecraft? :-P
Hahaha. It’s a video game.
What is it that you put in the middle
Thin copper sheets.
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