DIY EVERYTHING! My main focus will be on machining, but I am sure we will get into some dirtbike stuff, electric mountain biking, and some run of the mill vehicle repairs.
Copper conducts heat almost twice as well as aluminum. Which is why it burned you instantly! haha. Cooling fins are a good idea. running it through something like an inter-cooler is even better. the colder the air is before it goes into the tank the dryer your air will be. (providing you drain the water that condensates in the line before it ends up in the tank.)
@mwmxcnc11 күн бұрын
Sorry if the video is a little jumpy, it was several hours of footage, and I cut as much as I could to make it a manageable length, but it is still pretty long.
@ericbommer228019 күн бұрын
Pretty impressive, bender are so expensive. Great solution
@mwmxcnc18 күн бұрын
Thanks, and yes they are, especially something large enough to fit a 30 inch wide sheet. This was only the 3rd time I have used the 3d printed one, so $100 printer and $10 of filament is all you really need to make all sorts of tools. I make special tools for dirtbike and mountain bike suspension, and plenty of other things with it. They can make surprisingly strong parts if printed correctly.
@ericbommer228018 күн бұрын
If you're looking for ideas, I'd watch a video on how you design and make these parts.
@mwmxcnc18 күн бұрын
I can do that, I use the free version of fusion360, there is already a million videos for fusion, the problem is a lot of times they get outdated pretty fast as fusion updates and changes the software, I’ll put one together for the next part/tool I make.
@paddiman772Ай бұрын
Uhmmm unbelievable dude! I've got one of these animals too. But, being a life-long mechanic, there's some things I wouldn't do like you did. Sorry. Let me make my own! Like getting it all back together for a 3rd time and find some extra parts laying on the bench? And let's see, didn't you say you knew after the fact what was binding without doing what you did? That's a PITA! And didn't you know these machines are supposed to sound like a bunch of junkyard dogs arguing over who gets the shinbone? Hey if you do do a headstock modification, let us know.
@mwmxcncАй бұрын
Yeah that was definitely an unnecessary rebuild haha. But it did let me get the bearing numbers, and video of how it all goes together so I will have a better idea of how to convert it to a higher rpm motor. Which I plan to do someday. Also, as a mechanic, you’re saying you don’t end up with bonus parts after most jobs? I have a whole mountain of them! Haha
@nowar9220Ай бұрын
The nakanishi speed spindle is fricking awesome! It has a motor inside rated to 30krpm! They come in r8nand bt30 i think, 4.5kusd lol But for micromachining! As long as your cnc is precise that nakanishi speed spindle would be so fkn sick! So dont need to run your machine
@mwmxcncАй бұрын
Yeah that would be a waste in my machine, you’d probably need a pretty precise machine to use one of those spindles. And if it’s the one I’m thinking of, they’re air driven right? So you’d also need a hell of a compressor. Someday maybe, running a machine shop would be pretty awesome, or just being rich enough to have it all in my garage would be nice too. Lol
@nowar9220Ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc they sell both air driven and electric motor driven, yeah the air driven ones would def need alot of air lol But the electric ones are still small, it's just the lack of torque I'd be worried about there's vids of them machining 60rocwell steel but it'd take hours to make any kind of shape lol I think they are more for tiny bits for precision features n stuff. And yea I'd assume it's need a precision machine otherwise it's have tool breakage issues. I wouldn't be surprised if your setup will be quite decent bro, If you follow those specs when you were setting up the rails, dial everything in nicely, use precision levels and scrape it all in where needed I assume itl be at least on par with Haas machines if not out do them
@RustyInventions-wz6ir2 ай бұрын
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice mill. Nice work
@mwmxcncАй бұрын
Thanks! I’m not much of a video editor, but I’m working on it. I’ll be building a plasma table pretty soon, I’m using mess boards, and Linux cnc for this one, should be a pretty neat build, if you’re into cnc machines and fab work.
@brucewmclaughlin90722 ай бұрын
When I decided to put a disc brake tab on my 2008 Rans Rocket I did some searching for a fabricator. Turned out the fabricator wanted about 220.00 plus tax to do the job. When you do the tab by yourself by hand without the cnc machine then you come to the realization of why it costs so much. Well worth it in the end.
@mwmxcnc2 ай бұрын
Yeah it’s a simple enough part to make with some sort of hack saw, grinder and files. Cnc machine makes it a little easier though. And I’ll use any excuse to use mine. It’s always good to get some perspective.
@DavusClaymore3 ай бұрын
What material is the impromptu piston seal made of? My Harbor Freight compressor had a nylon piston ring! I'm considering using non lead solder, maybe leather. I might just try to pour a Babbitt ring. Like you, I just want to see if it can be done. No reason to throw out what can be fixed.
@mwmxcnc3 ай бұрын
It appears to be a nylon of some sort, the original also looked like it was impregnated with bronze or something. The problem with a metal/babbit/ductile iron etc. ring is that the piston and rod are one piece, and because of that, the piston rocks instead of staying parallel with the cylinder, I’d worry that would cause problems, a hard leather might be a good alternative, the ring looks like it’s designed to act kind of like a lip seal, where the more pressure, the more it forces outwards and seals, but depending on your compressor, you might be able to find a ring on eBay or Amazon, there is a ton out there, just not my exact size. I really hate tossing anything, and I always have the mindset that anything can be fixed, which gets me in trouble spending more than I should.
@sallymay-lu3uq4 ай бұрын
Why not make a tighter cylinder sleeve
@mwmxcnc4 ай бұрын
I’m not really sure what material I’d use, I could maybe do cast iron, the aluminum that’s in there now, looks to be hard anodized, or possibly some sort of plating, steel may work for a bit, bronze might work pretty well, I might have to try that.
@bladesofglorylawns4 ай бұрын
No the next step is to swing by the dump and chuck that thing on your way to harbour freight to scoop you a new compressor for cheap
@mwmxcnc4 ай бұрын
I actually did check out HF’s compressors, nothing available over 5cfm at 90psi except their gas powered units. Home Depot has some options around $1000
@bladesofglorylawns4 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc I gotcha, yea mines 4.5cfm I think which does pretty damn good for what I’m using it for but if you need more I get that. I heard and read Lowe’s kobalt super quiet compressors we’re off the chain also like a notch above the HF stuff like I got
@bladesofglorylawns4 ай бұрын
😂😂 bro, I did the same thing to my old compressor, except worse, and all to run my new plasma cutter, I gave up and went to harbor freight and grabbed one of those fortress stupid quiet 🤫 compressors bro, I think I paid like 275.00 for a ten gallon one and it’s literally silent compared to my old pancake style shit compressor, just throw in the towel man and scoop you a silent one fortress brand and you’ll be happy
@mwmxcnc4 ай бұрын
For real, I’m done with it, does your fortress make enough air? Everything I’ve read has said you need a ton of air, 8cfm min. I’m going to run it on a plasma table, so I won’t really be able to start and stop to let the compressor catch up, but the plasma cutter doesn’t have a very long duty cycle though anyways, so really I just need something that can keep up with that, which is like 4 minutes, then either 6 or 10 minutes of cool down, at full amperage.
@bladesofglorylawns4 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc man I honestly haven’t pushed my plasma on it yet for 4 min or near that long ya kno, but I will say I got the 10lb fortress bro and it more than keeps up with my plasma so far, but in your case I would personally get that super quiet 27 gallon or 28 gallon super quiet one fortress makes and I bet money it wud be able to run that table fine, because it’s got more reserve than mine does, mines not super tiny but it’s only a ten gallon, the pumps and tank are like over double what mine is on those bigger ones, I don’t think you’ll have an issue with either of the two bigger ones keeping up with that table, like I said mine is only 4.3 cfm with only 10 gallon reserve and it kicks the pump on eventually sure, but it keeps up. Yours would have the big ass 27 gallon tank for it to run on first off, and then the bigger pumps topping it off, I would be surprised if those bigger fortress ones didn’t work for you
@magikben4 ай бұрын
The loop in the copper air line is for vibration mitigation and so you can tighten it to the tank, bend it back and then into the compressor.
@mwmxcnc4 ай бұрын
Yeah that’s what I figured, the compressor is junk, I may use it as an expanded tank for whatever I get next. Or just sell it as a tank.
@NightshiftCustom4 ай бұрын
you can use the tank for extra air storage with your new setup
@mwmxcnc4 ай бұрын
Yeah that’s a great idea, but a new setup would most likely mean at least a 60gal tank which I think would be plenty, but I’m not actually sure, and shop space is at a premium.
@NightshiftCustom4 ай бұрын
build a little shed for it to sit outside the shop lots of place's I have been at do it like this @@mwmxcnc
@danielhuber74024 ай бұрын
Salut camarade j'ai la même machine et je viens de changer tous les roulements à billes et il m est arrivé le même problème que toi et je ne voulais pas démonter à cause du joint qui devait avoir séché 😢 et il me restait ce put... de circlips en fait il te suffit de prendre une tige en acier de 60 centimètre de la faire rentrer par le dessous et tu tapes par le dessous sur le pignon qui remonte😮 Et tu vois la gorge du réapparaître hourrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrra 😅😅😅😅😅😅😊😊😊😊😊😊😊🎉🎉🎉
@mwmxcnc4 ай бұрын
Well that is good to know for next time! Thanks
@user-ej3ss7lr6d5 ай бұрын
Heb jij een tenische tekeningen van de tandwielkast A.U.B ik ben daar opzoek naar
@mwmxcnc5 ай бұрын
Sorry, I do not have drawings.
@user-ej3ss7lr6d5 ай бұрын
Bedankt voor uw bericht
@systemcrash54845 ай бұрын
I continued watching the video... are you sure the collet belongs to the holder? The cutter appears to move back and forth with every change of direction. The vibrations are also not normal. the collets cannot compensate for a larger difference in diameter like the ER collets. They actually have to fit straight away. A few +-0.001mm are ok... but not much more I wouldn't use the reducer sleeve (for hydraulic chuck). Make sure that the collet is actually the right type for the holder, throw the defects in the trash can and buy a new one for the milling cutter you want to use. BIG has some of its own collets that are similar in appearance to Nikken's SK. I did a search online and came across it could be made for a ETS collet. As an alternative to SK10, you could apparently also order the speeder for it (ETS14). I found this in a PDF catalog. Just search for “BIG HIGH SPEED SPINDLE SPEEDER”. Good luck my friend!
@systemcrash54845 ай бұрын
I think it is a SK16 collet from Nikken. There are also bigger and smaller collets from this type. SK6, SK10, SK16, SK25... I am using them a lot and think they are way better as the common ER-Collets. Best regards from Germany
@mwmxcnc5 ай бұрын
I think you are correct! I’ve spent hours looking for them online with nothing really to go on. Nikken make sense as they also made a very similar, possibly identical version of my BIG spindle increaser. I’ll have to go check the tapers of mine, but so far it looks like the Nikken version is just a little longer overall, but it has a necked down section at the base. Thanks for letting me know about these, I actually ordered some er16 collets and was planning to try grinding them down on the lathe to get the taper right, and make them fit.
@jasonthomas46716 ай бұрын
Around 2.20 before t for any action
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
Yeah I listed out the steps in the description with timestamps to skip ahead. So you can just use the directions that I typed out.
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
What should I make next?🤔
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
Skip forward to 2:30 to start the anodizing fun! I clean and slightly polish with a fine scotchbrite pad. 4:30 placing the titanium wire for electrical connection 9:10 lye bath 4oz/gallon distilled water, 1-5 minutes, this removes old anodize if you have any, and will need at least 5 minutes, it also removes aluminum, so if your starting with clean tight tolerance parts only do 1-2 minutes. 13:50 into the acid to anodize, 1:1 mix of battery acid and dist. water. about 90 minutes 20amps per square foot of material. For a thicker hard anodize, start at a slightly lower amperage 15A sq/ft and ramp up to about 25A per sq/ft in as cold of acid as you can make it. set voltage to adjust amps, and but dont stress the voltage number too much, amps are what matters. Make sure your parts have a good electrical connection the whole time. 26:30 dye the parts, and seal. caswell dye I used recommends 140F for about 15 minutes, soak until it is slightly darker than you want. then seal right after in nearly boiling to boiling water, I put the parts in right before its boiling then heat to a light boil. That works for me. Then apply a light oil, wd-40, canola, 3in1..etc.. That's it, its really not hard to achieve good results.
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
The next video is coming up, I snapped the blade after heat treating, before tempering, it warped and I stupidly tried to bend it. But I made a new one already and guess what, it warped during machining! I think I can straighten it when I heat it up to heat treat, hopefully... Out of 4 blades that I’ve made so far this was the first to warp during machining. But we’re gonna move forward! Anodizing turned out great, so we have that going for us.
@frankk80186 ай бұрын
I am doing mine right now. These machines, have huge amounts of casting sand left in them from the manufacturer. I replaced all the bearings AND found a couple keyways way too loose, which might be the problem with your noise in reverse. There is a 7 part series from a guy named "John Workshop ZX7045" on a rebuild for these machines, what he found was pretty much what i found in mine. Cheers
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
Yeah I took mine apart and cleaned everything when I first purchased it, but I didn’t know to look for loose keys I’ll be back in there again soon. It was loaded with crud in the gearbox. I’m having a hard time deciding which route to go with to get the spindle seed up. Do you have any plans for that? It’s a killer whenever I have to use a small tool at 1500rpm’s.
@lahoz846 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc how do you guys adjust the setscrew on left side of the head in wich the quill keyseat rides on? Im totally lost there.
@frankk80186 ай бұрын
@mwmxcnc sorry missed your reply. I have no answer on how to speed up the machine, but I have heard rumors that people remove the gear set and go for a belt drive in conjunction with a VFD to control speed. That would open up a lot of options, but after this teardown, see what I saw, I am not sure if the machine is worth the effort. Cheers
@frankk80186 ай бұрын
@supla84 horrible system! If I had endless time and money, I would rethink that whole system. I just go by, feel, and lock it down where I think is a good compromise between having too loose of a quill and tearing the crap out of it. Cheers.
@halfstep676 ай бұрын
I have a Precision Matthews PM940 which is similar in size. I replaced all the bearings in the gearbox with better bearings and it made it run smoother and quieter. I also run Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil in the gearbox instead of 90w gear oil as it allows the gears to turn easier and helps with the power. I also replaced the oil seals with better seals. If you ever take off the lid again, put a strong magnet in the bottom of the gearbox to attract and hold metal shavings. If you drain the oil into a jug, tape a strong magnet to the bottom of the jug so that any shavings in the oil will be attracted and held by the magnet. When you pour the oil back in to the gearbox, any metal shavings will be captured and held by the magnet. Then you can take the magnet off of the jug and clean out the jug. I also removed the oil drain plug and installed a 1/4" valve to make draining the oil a lot easier.
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
Those are some good ideas, I did clean it out really well originally, but dropping a magnet in there woulda been smart. What oil did you use? I think some 15-40 syn would probably be a good middle ground that won’t thicken up like the 90w conventional gear oil does in the cold. You can hear the motor struggle when to get going when it’s first started and cold. I’m guessing you did the bearings and oil at the same time, so it would be hard to tell which contributed to the noise reduction most. Although both probably helped. I will try changing the oil here in the next couple weeks, I can do atleast that now, and maybe find a drain plug with a magnet. I’ve always suspected quite a bit of power is being lost by the 90w, but I’m also the type that typically listens to manufacture specs unless someone else has had good luck with an alternative. Also, the manufacturer of this mill probably spec’s whatever was cheapest, and not based on living in a Utah garage.
@halfstep676 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc I think I used Mobil One 5-30. but the 15-40 would be good too. I also added about a half quart of Lucus oil stabilizer to it to make the oil clingier. I have been using the synthetic oil for a while with no problem even at higher RPM. I just recently replaced the 8 bearings in the gearbox and noticed the better quality Nachi bearings are quieter. The old bearings seemed to be in good shape, but the new bearings are quieter. If you ever replace the bearings, you will probably have to open up the gearbox and get the numbers off of the bearings as the parts book probably won't list the bearing sizes. I also replaced the 3 oil seals since I went that far. I converted my PM940 into a CNC and wanted to run at higher RPM so that is why I went with using synthetic motor oil instead of heavy gear oil. I can run at 6000 RPM with no problems. I have very little metal shaving stuck to the magnet in my gearbox, so it is doing fine, and the gear teeth all look good. I have the strong magnet in the bottom near the drain hole to catch any shavings when I drain the oil. The drain plug in mine is a 1/4 NPT thread, so I just installed a 1/4 valve to make it easier to drain the oil. You can reinstall the drain plug in the end of the valve for extra security.
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
@halfstep67 Luckily when I recorded the video I tried to read out the bearing numbers, I think I can figure them out, but my question is how are you getting 6k rpm? I would love to get mine even to 3k would be awesome. Mine tops at 1500 the PM’s are nicer machines from what I’ve read, what did yours start with and how did you get it up to 6k? I’ve been trying to devise a plan to up the rpm’s for a long time, and other than swapping the gearbox out for some sort of pulley system or adding a pulley system to it, I haven’t really been able to find a way. I don’t know much about 3ph motors, but I have read they can be run at a higher hz to get higher rpms, but I’ve always looked at vfd’s as kind of a headache, seems people run into problems mainly with the cheaper vfd’s.
@halfstep676 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc Since I converted my PM940 to CNC, I had to buy a VFD and a 3-phase motor so the CNC controller can turn the motor on/off and control the speed and direction. I have a 3 PH 2 HP 3600 RPM motor. I have a tachometer so I can accurately clock the RPM. I can hit 6K pretty easy and even higher with angular contact bearings in the spindle. Even if I didn't do a CNC conversion, I would still want a VFD and 3-phase motor for the ability to control the RPM. It is a game changer for a bench top mill. You will need to go with better spindle bearings. The factory spindle bearings are a tapered bearing, and you can replace them with higher quality, higher RPM tapered bearings. Or you can go with angular contact bearings that are made for higher RPM than the tapered bearings. With a good quality tapered bearing, you can get 6k for short periods. With the angular bearings, you can run all day at 6K. There are some other things you will need to do to set the spindle bearing preload and maintain it and to get good concentricity with little run-out. I replaced the spanner nut with a better one from J. W. Winco.
@mwmxcnc6 ай бұрын
Alright, now I’m gonna need more info, your machine sounds awesome, did you come up with everything on your own, or is there some sort of write up somewhere? looking at the pm940, it appears to have a quite a few differences, so I’d bet the gearing and bearings are different. But knowing what you went with, and had success with for spindle bearings, motor and vfd would be a good start. I haven’t searched the web lately for someone who has done the conversion, so maybe there is a write up somewhere now. Being able to control the spindle with the control would be nice.
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
If anyone knows of cheap cam software that can do 4-axis or 5-axis machining I’d really like to get into that.
@juhavuorinen39457 ай бұрын
You need scraping guides and gibs to match them together perfectly. Then you have not play, but all moves nice and smooth. And you need make oiling system guides too
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
A pressurized oil system would great, especially on cnc.
@drstrangelove097 ай бұрын
Why does everyone use the word "is" when they should use "are"? "there is... two" (In this case it's understandable because the sentence might have been "There is one.")
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
They both sound proper to me, but you are right, depending on the plurality of following noun in the sentence, determines which you use "there is" or "there are".
@drstrangelove097 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc"there IS two" is wrong... it is "there ARE two"
@paulypaulypauly80113 ай бұрын
You is right,
@drstrangelove093 ай бұрын
@@paulypaulypauly8011 hahaha
@fabioth2837 ай бұрын
Change job or hobby,its better
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
What do you mean? Im fine with my job, it pays the bills, and this is a hobby that I enjoy and offers some gratification, while it is an expensive hobby, a lot of the money can be recouped if needed by selling it all. There is something to be said about someone who can fix and make things themselves in these days of disposable everything.
@fabioth2837 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc do you know about scraping or you did it just for make a video?
@fabioth2837 ай бұрын
@@mwmxcnc i ask you becose i dont understand well what you scraping on video.no straightedge,no blue paint for check highspot or other,just scraping slides everywhere for what?
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
I had already scraped it in flat parallel and square a few years back. This was just adding some flaking back in. Google flaking if you’re unfamiliar. Its sole purpose is to make small low spots to hold oil. You are right though, it has some wear now, but it is still very close to its original flatness. Trust me, I spent weeks or months scraping it in.
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
I would also add, the only reason I did add some flaking was because I had the machine apart already, to replace the ball nuts, otherwise I would not have done this.
@sto27797 ай бұрын
Would you recommend Bolton tools milling machine? I plan on getting one its about $500 less but not sure if I should or get the PM-25mv. Did you had to do a lot work to get it to be accurate? I don't have much skills in knowing how to get them to be true, squared and flat. Thanks.
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
Sorry for the long reply, and here is a link to a vid that's uploading now that shows the insides of the head and gearbox, it is pretty nicely made: kzread.info/dash/bejne/nIKrl6WPYdPSlrg.html . So, everyone's gonna tell you it depends what you're going to use it for. "If precision and minimal setup are priorities, go for the PM-25mv. I've heard it has better out-of-the-box accuracy, but slightly smaller, but you'll probably get better customer support. The Bolton Tools machine is good for less accurate, larger work, but may require disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication. I checked with Bolton Tools for used or refurbished machines." With the Bolton mill you will probably have to get the head and z-axis tower shimmed to get it straight. You won't have to quite go as far as me with scraping it all, that was way overboard. The www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-932m/ is probably the best of both worlds, but it's also much more expensive. Another good option would be trying to find a used one, but here in Utah they're hard to come by, and crazy expensive. One more quick thing, if you don't have a lathe yet, I would definitely start with that, you can do more with a lathe and easier, and I use mine far more for fixing and making random things. You can also get a milling attachment for the lathe, which is what I did. I brought the mill home, set it up, and it sat there for a long time just trying to find something to make or fix with it.
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
Allright, so I pulled the gib back out, and found that where the adjusting screw for the gib pushes against the gib, it had rolled over a burr, and that was causing it to push agains the dovetail giving me the bad reading, I chamfered the gib and now have about .001” play and I’ll see how that works. I also got the z axis dual ball but installed. I have some new videos I worked on all day today, it will include taking the gearbox apart, a few times…. Yeah, think on that for a minute😂
@vettepicking7 ай бұрын
I would get some bluing dye..... stop guessing on high spots.
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
Yeah you are right, I’m going to pull the gib, clean everything, and recheck, if I still have the slop, I will blue it and re-measure. Because I know at one time it was nearly perfect, I am thinking I might have a chip or something behind the gib. It just doesn’t make sense that the more visibly worn side is tighter. And I’ll admit it was getting late when I put it together and could have easily missed something.
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
If anyone has a recommendation as to why I am having some slop in the rear of the saddle, despite being scraped in perfectly several years ago, let me know. I am leaning towards just normal wear, but the interesting thing is that most of the visible wear was on the front where it was the tightest.
@danielholmes22037 ай бұрын
Was Chinese shitty cast properly stress relieved? prolly not
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
yeah I doubt it, someday Id like to replace the dovetails with large linear rails, and replace the entire head, gearbox, and spindle with either a custom spindle, or find something used from a different machine to adapt to this, this machine just uses taper roller bearings, and gets pretty warm just running at the 1500 rpm max. for the price of the machine though, you get quite a bit, but like most things, it could be better.
@sergitolstolutskey96977 ай бұрын
dovetail parallelism requires measuring with 2 guage pins in the dovetails, if the bottom of dovetail is flat it dies not mean that the angled dovetail is parallel to the flat one, so a reference that fits intio the dovetail, that touches both the flat and angled part of the divetail at the same time. so with 2 guage pins you can check all 4 surfaces by measuring the 2 pins in the dovetails with a large caliper or micrometer. but most if the wear being in the front is prbably because your machine saddle comes partly off the lower dovetails, i have same machine and the Y travel comes out of the dovetails so it gets extra wear
@mwmxcnc7 ай бұрын
That’s a great point, it does come off the front, even after adding the steel plate under the main upright column which moved the head back about 1.5”. I do know after my initial scraping in, that it was nearly perfect, which is why it’s throwing me for a loop that the front, that shows more wear would be tighter, I’m going to pull it apart again and make sure I don’t have a chip or something behind the gib. I really didn’t want to get all the way back into re-scraping it this soon. It sounds like you already know, but I’ll need to at least blue the flats, to be sure the dowels aren’t sitting in an unworn area, like where the gib rides on the flat, because the gib doesn’t actually touch the flat on the bottom side, leaving an unworn spot. Wishful thinking that I’d get away with just touching up the scraping without measuring, it’s all or nothing, and when I did it I was thinking about what Richard king said about a comparison he did with one of his customers, where they only flaked one machine and came back a while later to compare the wear to a same or similar machine to prove that flaking alone reduced wear. But those could have been newly ground machines that were flat and parallel. Thanks for the advice! I’ll report back soon.
Пікірлер
Copper conducts heat almost twice as well as aluminum. Which is why it burned you instantly! haha. Cooling fins are a good idea. running it through something like an inter-cooler is even better. the colder the air is before it goes into the tank the dryer your air will be. (providing you drain the water that condensates in the line before it ends up in the tank.)
Sorry if the video is a little jumpy, it was several hours of footage, and I cut as much as I could to make it a manageable length, but it is still pretty long.
Pretty impressive, bender are so expensive. Great solution
Thanks, and yes they are, especially something large enough to fit a 30 inch wide sheet. This was only the 3rd time I have used the 3d printed one, so $100 printer and $10 of filament is all you really need to make all sorts of tools. I make special tools for dirtbike and mountain bike suspension, and plenty of other things with it. They can make surprisingly strong parts if printed correctly.
If you're looking for ideas, I'd watch a video on how you design and make these parts.
I can do that, I use the free version of fusion360, there is already a million videos for fusion, the problem is a lot of times they get outdated pretty fast as fusion updates and changes the software, I’ll put one together for the next part/tool I make.
Uhmmm unbelievable dude! I've got one of these animals too. But, being a life-long mechanic, there's some things I wouldn't do like you did. Sorry. Let me make my own! Like getting it all back together for a 3rd time and find some extra parts laying on the bench? And let's see, didn't you say you knew after the fact what was binding without doing what you did? That's a PITA! And didn't you know these machines are supposed to sound like a bunch of junkyard dogs arguing over who gets the shinbone? Hey if you do do a headstock modification, let us know.
Yeah that was definitely an unnecessary rebuild haha. But it did let me get the bearing numbers, and video of how it all goes together so I will have a better idea of how to convert it to a higher rpm motor. Which I plan to do someday. Also, as a mechanic, you’re saying you don’t end up with bonus parts after most jobs? I have a whole mountain of them! Haha
The nakanishi speed spindle is fricking awesome! It has a motor inside rated to 30krpm! They come in r8nand bt30 i think, 4.5kusd lol But for micromachining! As long as your cnc is precise that nakanishi speed spindle would be so fkn sick! So dont need to run your machine
Yeah that would be a waste in my machine, you’d probably need a pretty precise machine to use one of those spindles. And if it’s the one I’m thinking of, they’re air driven right? So you’d also need a hell of a compressor. Someday maybe, running a machine shop would be pretty awesome, or just being rich enough to have it all in my garage would be nice too. Lol
@@mwmxcnc they sell both air driven and electric motor driven, yeah the air driven ones would def need alot of air lol But the electric ones are still small, it's just the lack of torque I'd be worried about there's vids of them machining 60rocwell steel but it'd take hours to make any kind of shape lol I think they are more for tiny bits for precision features n stuff. And yea I'd assume it's need a precision machine otherwise it's have tool breakage issues. I wouldn't be surprised if your setup will be quite decent bro, If you follow those specs when you were setting up the rails, dial everything in nicely, use precision levels and scrape it all in where needed I assume itl be at least on par with Haas machines if not out do them
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice mill. Nice work
Thanks! I’m not much of a video editor, but I’m working on it. I’ll be building a plasma table pretty soon, I’m using mess boards, and Linux cnc for this one, should be a pretty neat build, if you’re into cnc machines and fab work.
When I decided to put a disc brake tab on my 2008 Rans Rocket I did some searching for a fabricator. Turned out the fabricator wanted about 220.00 plus tax to do the job. When you do the tab by yourself by hand without the cnc machine then you come to the realization of why it costs so much. Well worth it in the end.
Yeah it’s a simple enough part to make with some sort of hack saw, grinder and files. Cnc machine makes it a little easier though. And I’ll use any excuse to use mine. It’s always good to get some perspective.
What material is the impromptu piston seal made of? My Harbor Freight compressor had a nylon piston ring! I'm considering using non lead solder, maybe leather. I might just try to pour a Babbitt ring. Like you, I just want to see if it can be done. No reason to throw out what can be fixed.
It appears to be a nylon of some sort, the original also looked like it was impregnated with bronze or something. The problem with a metal/babbit/ductile iron etc. ring is that the piston and rod are one piece, and because of that, the piston rocks instead of staying parallel with the cylinder, I’d worry that would cause problems, a hard leather might be a good alternative, the ring looks like it’s designed to act kind of like a lip seal, where the more pressure, the more it forces outwards and seals, but depending on your compressor, you might be able to find a ring on eBay or Amazon, there is a ton out there, just not my exact size. I really hate tossing anything, and I always have the mindset that anything can be fixed, which gets me in trouble spending more than I should.
Why not make a tighter cylinder sleeve
I’m not really sure what material I’d use, I could maybe do cast iron, the aluminum that’s in there now, looks to be hard anodized, or possibly some sort of plating, steel may work for a bit, bronze might work pretty well, I might have to try that.
No the next step is to swing by the dump and chuck that thing on your way to harbour freight to scoop you a new compressor for cheap
I actually did check out HF’s compressors, nothing available over 5cfm at 90psi except their gas powered units. Home Depot has some options around $1000
@@mwmxcnc I gotcha, yea mines 4.5cfm I think which does pretty damn good for what I’m using it for but if you need more I get that. I heard and read Lowe’s kobalt super quiet compressors we’re off the chain also like a notch above the HF stuff like I got
😂😂 bro, I did the same thing to my old compressor, except worse, and all to run my new plasma cutter, I gave up and went to harbor freight and grabbed one of those fortress stupid quiet 🤫 compressors bro, I think I paid like 275.00 for a ten gallon one and it’s literally silent compared to my old pancake style shit compressor, just throw in the towel man and scoop you a silent one fortress brand and you’ll be happy
For real, I’m done with it, does your fortress make enough air? Everything I’ve read has said you need a ton of air, 8cfm min. I’m going to run it on a plasma table, so I won’t really be able to start and stop to let the compressor catch up, but the plasma cutter doesn’t have a very long duty cycle though anyways, so really I just need something that can keep up with that, which is like 4 minutes, then either 6 or 10 minutes of cool down, at full amperage.
@@mwmxcnc man I honestly haven’t pushed my plasma on it yet for 4 min or near that long ya kno, but I will say I got the 10lb fortress bro and it more than keeps up with my plasma so far, but in your case I would personally get that super quiet 27 gallon or 28 gallon super quiet one fortress makes and I bet money it wud be able to run that table fine, because it’s got more reserve than mine does, mines not super tiny but it’s only a ten gallon, the pumps and tank are like over double what mine is on those bigger ones, I don’t think you’ll have an issue with either of the two bigger ones keeping up with that table, like I said mine is only 4.3 cfm with only 10 gallon reserve and it kicks the pump on eventually sure, but it keeps up. Yours would have the big ass 27 gallon tank for it to run on first off, and then the bigger pumps topping it off, I would be surprised if those bigger fortress ones didn’t work for you
The loop in the copper air line is for vibration mitigation and so you can tighten it to the tank, bend it back and then into the compressor.
Yeah that’s what I figured, the compressor is junk, I may use it as an expanded tank for whatever I get next. Or just sell it as a tank.
you can use the tank for extra air storage with your new setup
Yeah that’s a great idea, but a new setup would most likely mean at least a 60gal tank which I think would be plenty, but I’m not actually sure, and shop space is at a premium.
build a little shed for it to sit outside the shop lots of place's I have been at do it like this @@mwmxcnc
Salut camarade j'ai la même machine et je viens de changer tous les roulements à billes et il m est arrivé le même problème que toi et je ne voulais pas démonter à cause du joint qui devait avoir séché 😢 et il me restait ce put... de circlips en fait il te suffit de prendre une tige en acier de 60 centimètre de la faire rentrer par le dessous et tu tapes par le dessous sur le pignon qui remonte😮 Et tu vois la gorge du réapparaître hourrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrra 😅😅😅😅😅😅😊😊😊😊😊😊😊🎉🎉🎉
Well that is good to know for next time! Thanks
Heb jij een tenische tekeningen van de tandwielkast A.U.B ik ben daar opzoek naar
Sorry, I do not have drawings.
Bedankt voor uw bericht
I continued watching the video... are you sure the collet belongs to the holder? The cutter appears to move back and forth with every change of direction. The vibrations are also not normal. the collets cannot compensate for a larger difference in diameter like the ER collets. They actually have to fit straight away. A few +-0.001mm are ok... but not much more I wouldn't use the reducer sleeve (for hydraulic chuck). Make sure that the collet is actually the right type for the holder, throw the defects in the trash can and buy a new one for the milling cutter you want to use. BIG has some of its own collets that are similar in appearance to Nikken's SK. I did a search online and came across it could be made for a ETS collet. As an alternative to SK10, you could apparently also order the speeder for it (ETS14). I found this in a PDF catalog. Just search for “BIG HIGH SPEED SPINDLE SPEEDER”. Good luck my friend!
I think it is a SK16 collet from Nikken. There are also bigger and smaller collets from this type. SK6, SK10, SK16, SK25... I am using them a lot and think they are way better as the common ER-Collets. Best regards from Germany
I think you are correct! I’ve spent hours looking for them online with nothing really to go on. Nikken make sense as they also made a very similar, possibly identical version of my BIG spindle increaser. I’ll have to go check the tapers of mine, but so far it looks like the Nikken version is just a little longer overall, but it has a necked down section at the base. Thanks for letting me know about these, I actually ordered some er16 collets and was planning to try grinding them down on the lathe to get the taper right, and make them fit.
Around 2.20 before t for any action
Yeah I listed out the steps in the description with timestamps to skip ahead. So you can just use the directions that I typed out.
What should I make next?🤔
Skip forward to 2:30 to start the anodizing fun! I clean and slightly polish with a fine scotchbrite pad. 4:30 placing the titanium wire for electrical connection 9:10 lye bath 4oz/gallon distilled water, 1-5 minutes, this removes old anodize if you have any, and will need at least 5 minutes, it also removes aluminum, so if your starting with clean tight tolerance parts only do 1-2 minutes. 13:50 into the acid to anodize, 1:1 mix of battery acid and dist. water. about 90 minutes 20amps per square foot of material. For a thicker hard anodize, start at a slightly lower amperage 15A sq/ft and ramp up to about 25A per sq/ft in as cold of acid as you can make it. set voltage to adjust amps, and but dont stress the voltage number too much, amps are what matters. Make sure your parts have a good electrical connection the whole time. 26:30 dye the parts, and seal. caswell dye I used recommends 140F for about 15 minutes, soak until it is slightly darker than you want. then seal right after in nearly boiling to boiling water, I put the parts in right before its boiling then heat to a light boil. That works for me. Then apply a light oil, wd-40, canola, 3in1..etc.. That's it, its really not hard to achieve good results.
The next video is coming up, I snapped the blade after heat treating, before tempering, it warped and I stupidly tried to bend it. But I made a new one already and guess what, it warped during machining! I think I can straighten it when I heat it up to heat treat, hopefully... Out of 4 blades that I’ve made so far this was the first to warp during machining. But we’re gonna move forward! Anodizing turned out great, so we have that going for us.
I am doing mine right now. These machines, have huge amounts of casting sand left in them from the manufacturer. I replaced all the bearings AND found a couple keyways way too loose, which might be the problem with your noise in reverse. There is a 7 part series from a guy named "John Workshop ZX7045" on a rebuild for these machines, what he found was pretty much what i found in mine. Cheers
Yeah I took mine apart and cleaned everything when I first purchased it, but I didn’t know to look for loose keys I’ll be back in there again soon. It was loaded with crud in the gearbox. I’m having a hard time deciding which route to go with to get the spindle seed up. Do you have any plans for that? It’s a killer whenever I have to use a small tool at 1500rpm’s.
@@mwmxcnc how do you guys adjust the setscrew on left side of the head in wich the quill keyseat rides on? Im totally lost there.
@mwmxcnc sorry missed your reply. I have no answer on how to speed up the machine, but I have heard rumors that people remove the gear set and go for a belt drive in conjunction with a VFD to control speed. That would open up a lot of options, but after this teardown, see what I saw, I am not sure if the machine is worth the effort. Cheers
@supla84 horrible system! If I had endless time and money, I would rethink that whole system. I just go by, feel, and lock it down where I think is a good compromise between having too loose of a quill and tearing the crap out of it. Cheers.
I have a Precision Matthews PM940 which is similar in size. I replaced all the bearings in the gearbox with better bearings and it made it run smoother and quieter. I also run Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil in the gearbox instead of 90w gear oil as it allows the gears to turn easier and helps with the power. I also replaced the oil seals with better seals. If you ever take off the lid again, put a strong magnet in the bottom of the gearbox to attract and hold metal shavings. If you drain the oil into a jug, tape a strong magnet to the bottom of the jug so that any shavings in the oil will be attracted and held by the magnet. When you pour the oil back in to the gearbox, any metal shavings will be captured and held by the magnet. Then you can take the magnet off of the jug and clean out the jug. I also removed the oil drain plug and installed a 1/4" valve to make draining the oil a lot easier.
Those are some good ideas, I did clean it out really well originally, but dropping a magnet in there woulda been smart. What oil did you use? I think some 15-40 syn would probably be a good middle ground that won’t thicken up like the 90w conventional gear oil does in the cold. You can hear the motor struggle when to get going when it’s first started and cold. I’m guessing you did the bearings and oil at the same time, so it would be hard to tell which contributed to the noise reduction most. Although both probably helped. I will try changing the oil here in the next couple weeks, I can do atleast that now, and maybe find a drain plug with a magnet. I’ve always suspected quite a bit of power is being lost by the 90w, but I’m also the type that typically listens to manufacture specs unless someone else has had good luck with an alternative. Also, the manufacturer of this mill probably spec’s whatever was cheapest, and not based on living in a Utah garage.
@@mwmxcnc I think I used Mobil One 5-30. but the 15-40 would be good too. I also added about a half quart of Lucus oil stabilizer to it to make the oil clingier. I have been using the synthetic oil for a while with no problem even at higher RPM. I just recently replaced the 8 bearings in the gearbox and noticed the better quality Nachi bearings are quieter. The old bearings seemed to be in good shape, but the new bearings are quieter. If you ever replace the bearings, you will probably have to open up the gearbox and get the numbers off of the bearings as the parts book probably won't list the bearing sizes. I also replaced the 3 oil seals since I went that far. I converted my PM940 into a CNC and wanted to run at higher RPM so that is why I went with using synthetic motor oil instead of heavy gear oil. I can run at 6000 RPM with no problems. I have very little metal shaving stuck to the magnet in my gearbox, so it is doing fine, and the gear teeth all look good. I have the strong magnet in the bottom near the drain hole to catch any shavings when I drain the oil. The drain plug in mine is a 1/4 NPT thread, so I just installed a 1/4 valve to make it easier to drain the oil. You can reinstall the drain plug in the end of the valve for extra security.
@halfstep67 Luckily when I recorded the video I tried to read out the bearing numbers, I think I can figure them out, but my question is how are you getting 6k rpm? I would love to get mine even to 3k would be awesome. Mine tops at 1500 the PM’s are nicer machines from what I’ve read, what did yours start with and how did you get it up to 6k? I’ve been trying to devise a plan to up the rpm’s for a long time, and other than swapping the gearbox out for some sort of pulley system or adding a pulley system to it, I haven’t really been able to find a way. I don’t know much about 3ph motors, but I have read they can be run at a higher hz to get higher rpms, but I’ve always looked at vfd’s as kind of a headache, seems people run into problems mainly with the cheaper vfd’s.
@@mwmxcnc Since I converted my PM940 to CNC, I had to buy a VFD and a 3-phase motor so the CNC controller can turn the motor on/off and control the speed and direction. I have a 3 PH 2 HP 3600 RPM motor. I have a tachometer so I can accurately clock the RPM. I can hit 6K pretty easy and even higher with angular contact bearings in the spindle. Even if I didn't do a CNC conversion, I would still want a VFD and 3-phase motor for the ability to control the RPM. It is a game changer for a bench top mill. You will need to go with better spindle bearings. The factory spindle bearings are a tapered bearing, and you can replace them with higher quality, higher RPM tapered bearings. Or you can go with angular contact bearings that are made for higher RPM than the tapered bearings. With a good quality tapered bearing, you can get 6k for short periods. With the angular bearings, you can run all day at 6K. There are some other things you will need to do to set the spindle bearing preload and maintain it and to get good concentricity with little run-out. I replaced the spanner nut with a better one from J. W. Winco.
Alright, now I’m gonna need more info, your machine sounds awesome, did you come up with everything on your own, or is there some sort of write up somewhere? looking at the pm940, it appears to have a quite a few differences, so I’d bet the gearing and bearings are different. But knowing what you went with, and had success with for spindle bearings, motor and vfd would be a good start. I haven’t searched the web lately for someone who has done the conversion, so maybe there is a write up somewhere now. Being able to control the spindle with the control would be nice.
If anyone knows of cheap cam software that can do 4-axis or 5-axis machining I’d really like to get into that.
You need scraping guides and gibs to match them together perfectly. Then you have not play, but all moves nice and smooth. And you need make oiling system guides too
A pressurized oil system would great, especially on cnc.
Why does everyone use the word "is" when they should use "are"? "there is... two" (In this case it's understandable because the sentence might have been "There is one.")
They both sound proper to me, but you are right, depending on the plurality of following noun in the sentence, determines which you use "there is" or "there are".
@@mwmxcnc"there IS two" is wrong... it is "there ARE two"
You is right,
@@paulypaulypauly8011 hahaha
Change job or hobby,its better
What do you mean? Im fine with my job, it pays the bills, and this is a hobby that I enjoy and offers some gratification, while it is an expensive hobby, a lot of the money can be recouped if needed by selling it all. There is something to be said about someone who can fix and make things themselves in these days of disposable everything.
@@mwmxcnc do you know about scraping or you did it just for make a video?
@@mwmxcnc i ask you becose i dont understand well what you scraping on video.no straightedge,no blue paint for check highspot or other,just scraping slides everywhere for what?
I had already scraped it in flat parallel and square a few years back. This was just adding some flaking back in. Google flaking if you’re unfamiliar. Its sole purpose is to make small low spots to hold oil. You are right though, it has some wear now, but it is still very close to its original flatness. Trust me, I spent weeks or months scraping it in.
I would also add, the only reason I did add some flaking was because I had the machine apart already, to replace the ball nuts, otherwise I would not have done this.
Would you recommend Bolton tools milling machine? I plan on getting one its about $500 less but not sure if I should or get the PM-25mv. Did you had to do a lot work to get it to be accurate? I don't have much skills in knowing how to get them to be true, squared and flat. Thanks.
Sorry for the long reply, and here is a link to a vid that's uploading now that shows the insides of the head and gearbox, it is pretty nicely made: kzread.info/dash/bejne/nIKrl6WPYdPSlrg.html . So, everyone's gonna tell you it depends what you're going to use it for. "If precision and minimal setup are priorities, go for the PM-25mv. I've heard it has better out-of-the-box accuracy, but slightly smaller, but you'll probably get better customer support. The Bolton Tools machine is good for less accurate, larger work, but may require disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication. I checked with Bolton Tools for used or refurbished machines." With the Bolton mill you will probably have to get the head and z-axis tower shimmed to get it straight. You won't have to quite go as far as me with scraping it all, that was way overboard. The www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-932m/ is probably the best of both worlds, but it's also much more expensive. Another good option would be trying to find a used one, but here in Utah they're hard to come by, and crazy expensive. One more quick thing, if you don't have a lathe yet, I would definitely start with that, you can do more with a lathe and easier, and I use mine far more for fixing and making random things. You can also get a milling attachment for the lathe, which is what I did. I brought the mill home, set it up, and it sat there for a long time just trying to find something to make or fix with it.
Allright, so I pulled the gib back out, and found that where the adjusting screw for the gib pushes against the gib, it had rolled over a burr, and that was causing it to push agains the dovetail giving me the bad reading, I chamfered the gib and now have about .001” play and I’ll see how that works. I also got the z axis dual ball but installed. I have some new videos I worked on all day today, it will include taking the gearbox apart, a few times…. Yeah, think on that for a minute😂
I would get some bluing dye..... stop guessing on high spots.
Yeah you are right, I’m going to pull the gib, clean everything, and recheck, if I still have the slop, I will blue it and re-measure. Because I know at one time it was nearly perfect, I am thinking I might have a chip or something behind the gib. It just doesn’t make sense that the more visibly worn side is tighter. And I’ll admit it was getting late when I put it together and could have easily missed something.
If anyone has a recommendation as to why I am having some slop in the rear of the saddle, despite being scraped in perfectly several years ago, let me know. I am leaning towards just normal wear, but the interesting thing is that most of the visible wear was on the front where it was the tightest.
Was Chinese shitty cast properly stress relieved? prolly not
yeah I doubt it, someday Id like to replace the dovetails with large linear rails, and replace the entire head, gearbox, and spindle with either a custom spindle, or find something used from a different machine to adapt to this, this machine just uses taper roller bearings, and gets pretty warm just running at the 1500 rpm max. for the price of the machine though, you get quite a bit, but like most things, it could be better.
dovetail parallelism requires measuring with 2 guage pins in the dovetails, if the bottom of dovetail is flat it dies not mean that the angled dovetail is parallel to the flat one, so a reference that fits intio the dovetail, that touches both the flat and angled part of the divetail at the same time. so with 2 guage pins you can check all 4 surfaces by measuring the 2 pins in the dovetails with a large caliper or micrometer. but most if the wear being in the front is prbably because your machine saddle comes partly off the lower dovetails, i have same machine and the Y travel comes out of the dovetails so it gets extra wear
That’s a great point, it does come off the front, even after adding the steel plate under the main upright column which moved the head back about 1.5”. I do know after my initial scraping in, that it was nearly perfect, which is why it’s throwing me for a loop that the front, that shows more wear would be tighter, I’m going to pull it apart again and make sure I don’t have a chip or something behind the gib. I really didn’t want to get all the way back into re-scraping it this soon. It sounds like you already know, but I’ll need to at least blue the flats, to be sure the dowels aren’t sitting in an unworn area, like where the gib rides on the flat, because the gib doesn’t actually touch the flat on the bottom side, leaving an unworn spot. Wishful thinking that I’d get away with just touching up the scraping without measuring, it’s all or nothing, and when I did it I was thinking about what Richard king said about a comparison he did with one of his customers, where they only flaked one machine and came back a while later to compare the wear to a same or similar machine to prove that flaking alone reduced wear. But those could have been newly ground machines that were flat and parallel. Thanks for the advice! I’ll report back soon.