Hello everyone and thanks for stopping by! My name is Mathew. I have been an automotive & light duty truck technician since 1994. I currently work for a Ford dealer in Snohomish Wa. My intention is to share content that I find interesting and informative plus hope it gives you insight on similar repairs. Cheers from Rain City Wrench.
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Use Dry Silicone spray. When it is wet, it is super slippery. But when it dries out in 20 minutes it is like a super-glue.
The service manager you had was an idiot. I am sure he has moved on to something more suited for his attitude like working on an industrial scale pig farm
I have an issue where the AC is blowing cold and the AC light starts to blink so it begins to throw hot air. I just had my water pump replaced and don’t know if that has something to do with it because it was my AC was working just fine. Do you think they’re replacing my water pump has anything to do with the AC blowing out hot air?
The drive shaft has to be removed by force. WSM says to use a specialty tool to attach to the driveshaft right near the diff and then use a slide hammer to pop the driveshaft out.
Just found your video. I’ve got an 05 and found a video for the prior generation with the same problem and it required a new bushing and bearing. I haven’t taken mine apart yet but now you’ve got ME scared that I’m gonna strip it out. You think it’s possible to just come loose with 190,000 miles of normal wear and tear?
What brand of glue did you use for the repairs? Thanks
That looks like a lot of ripple and noise??? are you sure that is clean enough for programming? Need to check that with an Oscilloscope. You will get cleaner power with an Iota DLS
Or what will happen if you don’t fix it fast
How long can you drive it for like this?
I have this same issue... car wont start at all now..
Thanks for the video. Good points to check. In my experience of owning Ford pickups for many decades. A lot of them have issues with the front window seal on the driver side. I don't know what they do, passenger side rarely an issue. Once the windshields are removed and re-sealed, no more problems. Have had some electrical issues from the leaks under the dash too. One thing to keep an eye on, if you own one.
Outstanding and very very informative video. Thank you so very much!
Gracias bro muy buena tu ayuda AHORA LE COMPRARÉ LA DEL VECINO QUE CREE QUE SU MOTOR ESTÁ FUNDIDO Y ME LA DARÁ EN 2k 😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉yupiiiiii
Discount tire does it for free. Just buy a new set of sensors.
Any suggestions on the o-rings? I’ve done this job 3 times in 6 weeks on my tundra because the o rings keep leaking. I put syl-glide on them every time. I’m about ready to cover them in the right stuff and call it good. That pipe may never come off again, but I don’t think it will leak anymore.
Weird. Any corrosion inside the aluminum and are you using Toyota o-rings?
@@raincitywrench117 I am using Toyota o-rings. Someone else on here just told me the coolant pipe from the water pump to the heat exchanger has been updated. I ordered one of those, hopefully that does the trick.
Awesome video thank you? What was the music?
Thank You! Can't remember, just something random off Epidemic Sound.
You can simply pull the heater core out of the HVAC box and leave it resting on the wheel well
Yea, someone else said that too. Guess I had to do it the hard way 😅
Great video. Does the bad one feel like a slight surge?
Thanks. Yea it does. It will surge and can see the rpm's fluctuate on the tach.
2017 3.5 Ecoboost with 58k on it and no noise. Is it worth doing this now ? Thanks
Looks like it's out of warranty. I wouldn't tough it unless it starts making noise. You may get lucky & never have a problem 🤞
What up everyone , Tech from WV 304. I did exactly this and still had a hard time getting by the oil pump drive sprocket so I ended up taking out the driver side engine mount bolt. After that it was easy Install and reassembly. Appreciate it , Have a good one yall.
Definitely a tight fit. Had one that wouldn't come out and did the same thing 👍
I'll stick to the basic XL 5.0V8 with steel wheels thanks...as my grandma said...KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!!.❤️🙏🇺🇲
I have a 2013 explorer with the same code but my don't star at all do I just have to change the vvt solenoids?
So it won't start? It may have jumped timing and is too far off to start. I would start by running a compression test. If all cylinders are low then you will need to turn engine to top dead center and make sure all the marks line up. Have seen one spin the crankshaft gear throwing the timing off.
10th gen honda 1.5T and 2.0T has this exact open deck design which has been causing much more head gasket blowouts.
The more material on the deck the better. If I were a designer I would make sure it was as thick as possible.
How long did it take you to get the dash out? And did you need help? I need to replace my coil.
About four hours. You will definitely need an assistant. I pad the floor and roll the dash face down inside of the vehicle. They weigh a ton and removing from vehicle is a PITA.
What did that job cost parts n labor?
I don't get to see the billing. The evaporator is around $300 plus labor.
Horrible! That looks painful to watch...all for just that 1 sensor. They sure dont like to make the remedies easy. But you did Great work!
Best video on KZread with this model car front and back. Thank you for getting me prepared for my job!
Any time!
Gg after market parts
Any advice on getting the upper bell housing bolts off? They’re in there pretty good😅
Sweat and tears 😂 LONG extension, swivel socket and 1/2" milwaukee gun
Viewers didn’t get to see the process of taking the shafts out
My 2009 E-150 with the 4.6 V8 isn’t leaking anything after 100k miles.
There are companies like that but they’re not allowed to sell their vehicles here.
What tool did you use to remove the pins that hold the pads
Just used a small round drift.
Ball park how many hours is a job like that?
Think it was around 13 hours
I have the 5 blinks also. However, the ac system works great until it doesnt. I dont feel that i have a leak. It happens after driving a little while. I wouldn't have cold air at all if it was a leak. Can the ptessure switches be changed without evacuating on these?
Not sure on an Acadia but have done GM pressure switches before and they will have a schrader valve underneath. I would have the HVAC module scanned to see what codes are stored. The ambient air temp sensor or evap temp sensor could also have an intermittent problem.
Y si Solo quiero cambiar los bulbos!???
Buen video, gracias por compartir.
nice n great video ,do yo u have part number new version sir
23-2143 Bulletin shows HL3Z-6256-CD INT HL3Z-6C525-CD EXH but think the new numbers are: ML3Z-6256-A Intake ML3Z-6C525-A Exhaust. Just make sure the units have the metal cage over the spring and they will be the newest version.
How does the carrier thrust bearing go in? Flat side or sliding side first? Which side of the carrier thrust bearing faces the reduction hub?
The planet carrier thrust bearing goes in with the large flat side facing up toward the reduction hub based on the picture. But it doesn't specify which way and don't think it will make a difference if it's turned the other way. I ran into the same issue as the bearing fits in either way but went with the picture.
Can you get my mechanic to do this for me? Jk jk, my truck is a 2011 with 175k, so I might as well just do a full timing chain.
2011 3.5 will have a single primary chain and two secondary chains, different than the later gen 3.5L in this video. The gen one 3.5 with single primary chain can stretch but don't think the phasers are prone to making noise.
nice work probably can do it myself, but I do not have the lift to get the bed up or the building to do it in,so that being said ,how much do you charge and where are you located?
I cant say what our dealership charges but my guess is somewhere around $1800. I'm in Snohomish Wa
Hello, i have the same 2017 2.0 EB and does that anywhere from 25 to 45mph. 170k miles. If I step on it you hardly or don't feel it. Cruise at highway speed and its all good. 100% is fluid related? I'm planning a long trip should I do this flush ASAP?
It can be very subtle. If you have 170K & never had the transmission serviced then that's amazing. I would definitely see if your dealer can flush fluid out or at minimum have it drained and refilled.
@@raincitywrench117 i drained it, refill it with some cheap Walmart fluid and it works so much better now, will do another one with better fluid
Thanks for an excellent video with clear voice narration
Thanks! Clear video. Making me save a little money from the stearlership.. I have to do this to my 2017 Escape.
What’s the cost of this job usually? I’m also in WA if that makes a difference. Thanks!
Ford warranty reimbursement is just under 10 hours. If out of warranty then I believe labor time is around 13.5hr. Probably looking at minimum $2000 labor plus parts. All depends on shop's labor rate.
You should have done the caster bushing and track bar relocate before installing the new springs and shocks.
Yea. Didn't think about that at the time but would have made it easier.
I have this knock and have been to several mechanics who wont touch my truck. Toyota itself turned my truck around in like 6 hrs and said it needed a new engine for 14,000$ (never checked oil, never drove it, nothing) same sounds as this vid in the same exact place. Im willing to try this fix, but, id like to know what kind of damage this causes if left untreated (as i have) for a while. It began making this noise a few weeks after purchase and has gotten progressively worse. Its in a 2012 tundra in primo shape with some nice upgrades and i dont wanna give it up at 120k. I love this truck, it runs mint, but the tick is SO loud now its driving me crazy. Runs perfectly, never an error code, no smoke, clean oil, just KNOCKS all the time. Cant order at a drive thru, can hear it running from my backyard. only gripe with this truck at all. Also, while in there does it make sense to replace any parts other than the tensioner? Would it make sense while there to just swap all the wear parts? Chain, pulleys, etc? I dont wanna do twice.
Have not read one comment stating that this noise led to engine damage. Same goes with Ford's cam phaser rattle on startup. One poster says his 5.7 has been making noise for more than 100k miles. Yea, I would recommend replacing chains, guides and both tensioners while in there 👍
'jiffy-tight' just sounds bad lol
I know right 😆
Throw some penetrating oil in there let in set, bet you don’t need that big breaker bar.
Did the transmission jack leave any dents on the trans pan?
No, not at all 👍