Question, I have a problem with the support they are really hard to remove, how do you fix deal with that ? It’s so difficult to take them off
@mark4jrКүн бұрын
There can be a lot of factors that cause this. Lowering the nozzle temperature might help. I find the more accurate the first layer, the better the supports release. I'd recommend printing this test print and adjusting the z-height until you get it close to perfect, if your printer is like mine it might take modifying the bed to get it level/flat before the first layer becomes consistent (I have a video on this) www.printables.com/model/671915-anycubic-kobra-2-max-bed-level-first-layer-calibra
@Kurto20212 күн бұрын
the dial indicator in the link to the print is different then then one that i just bought from the link to the dial indicator
@mark4jr2 күн бұрын
@@Kurto2021 in the file section of the print there were multiple options, if memory serves it was not the first option. Apologies if they changed the design on the dial indicator
@Kurto20212 күн бұрын
@@mark4jr I was able to make it work. My bed was so far off from level
@Stef-an2 күн бұрын
WARNING: DO NOT BUY THIS PRINTER (or any anycubic Kobra 2 printers, I've been having similar problems on Kobra 2 and Kobra Neo) I do not care if I come off biased or triggered, but these anycubic printers have took 5 years away from my life with problems. My office bought this piece of s***, a closed source firmware, with: NO OPTION to set e-steps, no extrusion/flow control whatsoever, disfunctional ABL (compensates incorrectly), no way to connect it to a PC, no manual bed leveling mesh or option to edit the automatic one, no way to level your bed, only way to change z-offset is during printing, incorrect automatic z-offset detection (varies by ~0.25mm on every auto level) VERY uneven bed, no way to calibrate stepper motors. I can't even remember all the other problems. I added springs and knobs to manually level the bed, and it helped A LOT, but it still wasn't enough because there are 8 screws and the bed surface is massive, so even if I manually tram the bed with them, there are still hills and valleys when printing something bigger on it. We bought it for 600$, I'd say it's not worth the trouble even if they gave me 300$ back. Piece of s***.
@mark4jr2 күн бұрын
I definitely understand your frustration, and you have valid points. Unfortunately, as of today, there are no better options available for a large format 3d printer even close to the price point of the K2M that do not have the same exact issues/concerns. What I can say is I have two of these machines that have been printing flawlessly for almost a year now since executing the steps I outlined in this video. Should you need to modify a brand-new machine to get it to work? No, absolutely not. That being said, it's very gratifying being able to design and print BIG without breaking the bank
@Stef-an2 күн бұрын
@@mark4jr Yeah, the price vs volume does make it enticing, but I've been printing for a long time, and I've been searching for solutions online for a month, I tried all sorts of fixes with no improvements. Thanks for the video, and sorry for the negative comment, I just wanna warn people. I do not mind tinkering and calibrating a 3d printer, but if anycubic is gonna deliver a piece of s*** like this with closed source firmware, than at least give me options in it OR open source it, and people will fix it for you. No matter price vs volume, if you can't get a decent first layer, everything is useless. How do I print something big on it, if the first layer looks like a topographical map of the Balkans?
@mark4jr2 күн бұрын
@@Stef-an hey no worries at all! I keep hearing rumors Bambu is launching a large format soon 🤞
@Stef-an2 күн бұрын
@@mark4jr Nice, let's hope it's not gonna be overpriced :)
@garbesma3 күн бұрын
Love this video, it helped a lot. At the 3rd interval you are talking about supports and that you'd get back to the paint on supports but maybe I missed it? If not, could you explain a little bit about that feature.
@mark4jr2 күн бұрын
kzread.info/dash/bejne/k2GbzZicqLK0ctY.html
@garbesma2 күн бұрын
@@mark4jr I started the video at the link you sent but I didn't hear anything about the "paint-on supports" button on the left side, 2nd up from the bottom. Maybe I missed it?
@javomal4 күн бұрын
Is there a way to add a pause at certain height, so you can add other materials or change color?
@mark4jr4 күн бұрын
@@javomal not in anycubic slicer that im aware of, I believe Prusa slicer has this feature.
@devangpatel52855 күн бұрын
Where did you get the wire guide for the hot bed wiring. I need it.
Thanks for the tutorial! I think this is the only one on the new Anycubic slicer? Excellently done.
@kathyzieger620711 күн бұрын
Mine prints offset, it kicks it and nothing is alined.
@djlea198512 күн бұрын
Great video! It really helped me out. Subbed!
@frankdearr277217 күн бұрын
👍
@edwardmartinson524726 күн бұрын
Useful video
@melomelo989428 күн бұрын
hi, can you send me the file for the dial gauge? :-)
@mark4jr28 күн бұрын
the link in the description of this video goes to more of a how-to guide with all of the links
@s197babeblueАй бұрын
Awesome… AWESOME! I have Kobra 2 Plus and i have the same problem. Thank you bro!
@shaunmiller8735Ай бұрын
I don't think I've ever actually commented on a video, but I have owned my Kobra 2 Max for a week and have never gotten a good printout of it. I was about to return it when I found your series of videos and tried the leveling, and so far, things seem significantly better, so thank you for all of the work you put into this.
@Anonymous553061Ай бұрын
I've solved my issue by using some aluminum tape under the bed in the low spots, works great now
@partoftheabsoluteone496027 күн бұрын
This made me chuckle! - Did this really work? How big did you make your Aluminum tape patches? and where did you place them? Would love to see a video of you doing this.😃
@Anonymous55306127 күн бұрын
@@partoftheabsoluteone4960 oh yeah just print a super big and flat thing, like a level test, then when it's done put a reasonably sized piece of tape under the bed and make sure it's flat and re level, then u should be good to go
@ShePLPАй бұрын
Hey, do you have the file for the dial gauge?
@mark4jrАй бұрын
there is a link in the video description that goes to more of a how-to, all the links are in the how-to videos description
@dzimmuАй бұрын
I also got this issue of shifted layers. According to my observations, these issues happen at quite big distance from build plate (around 20-30 cm), which means the weight of plastic is already sufficient. I reduced all accelerations to 5000 mm/s2, and till now I never got this issue again. Seems that in my case the motor skips the steps when the load of plastic is around 300 g or more, and inertia of build plate + printed model is too high for motor...
@TurbolaggedАй бұрын
Just did mine cause stock fan was going out. I used the Noctura buck converter. All plugged up super easy! Thanks for the vid!
@gordonrain7152Ай бұрын
Howdy Mr. Foor, As a (now) retired Architect/Engineer watching your video was a wee bit of a joy for me. Your analysis/application process was most enjoyable. The fact that the Max has essentially a 'fixed' bed and relies on auto-leveling for accuracy is fine for their consumer base, but not as acceptable for those requiring a greater degree of accuracy. I count myself amoungst those ranks. Question tho'; Did you feel the need to lock down your heat bed screws once you leveled the bed? It seems that at least a dab of blue Loctite 243 would be prudent considering the constant and sharp acceleration loads the bed is subjected to repeatedly would dictate some level of locking down the screws. I presently own 4 Kobra Max's and 2 Kobra 2 Max's as they are superb work horses and all of them will addressed with some form of this 'upgrade' in mind, albeit I'll be planning on retaining the two center metal spacers to serve as the 'constant' and using the silicone spacers for the remaining six bed screws, since after watching your sped up portion of the video I did notice that you returned to the two center screws several times after adjusting the outer screws...I believe a solid center 'starting' point is not a bad idea. ; - )
@mark4jrАй бұрын
the solid center point is definitely not a bad idea and I did consider doing that myself, hope that works out. I also considered adding loctite but so far its not been an issue whatsoever, I think the silicon puts enough tension on the screws they are not likely to move. Thanks for the feedback!
@mindaugasrazutis2635Ай бұрын
Thank You for Your video. Very good explanation
@valentin_atanasovАй бұрын
Third day I can't print because the bed is crooked! Now I'm thinking of writing a letter to Anycubic about their mistakes! Do engineers work there? Probably not! Thanks for the video, now I continue the fight!
@mark4jrАй бұрын
contact tech support, they will likely send a new bed
@perjakobsen4712Ай бұрын
thank you, werry nice exploration
@simbian5900Ай бұрын
Have you did this AFTER your warranty has expired ? Its loud but I dont wanna mess with warranty.
@mark4jrАй бұрын
nah, but they also dont ship printers back for most warranty claims they will just send parts
@thatstramiАй бұрын
I just ended up returning my unit and having them ship me another one. One word of advice by the units off of Amazon you get better customer service. The moment that I left a bad review customer service showed up out of nowhere and gave me top level customer service
@nievesdiaz885Ай бұрын
Hello, I have a problem with my kobra2max, autoleveling doesn't work for me, no one gives me a solution, could someone help me? Please!
@josepinedo692519 күн бұрын
I'm having the same problem! I have a Kobra Max, not the 2. if you find something please let me know!
@nievesdiaz885Ай бұрын
Hello, I have a problem with my kobra2max, autoleveling doesn’t work for me, no one gives me a solution, could someone help me? Please!
@Lorddarthvader1701Ай бұрын
New sub, great video on this slicer, gonna binge watch yours on this slicer. Used Cura but I want to give this one a try. Will you do a video on the Organic supports and paint removing what you don't want etc.
@handdancinАй бұрын
your videos are great- im in a similar boat, but i have another strange issue which is print quality gets a little rough in a predictable way i.e. when i print a timing pulley, the north east face gets a little messed up. im wondering if there is something about how the head is bending the tube that causes underextrusion only in certain ways. as for the e step calibration, is there a way to just insert custom g-code at the beginning? i know anycubic doesnt make the initial estep param known but maybe there is some way of discovering it.
@mark4jrАй бұрын
I had a chunk of filament stuck in my print head, ever since clearing it its been pretty smooth sailing and gorgeous prints. Replacing the little piece of PTFE tubing inside of the hot-end with capricorn tubing I think was also pretty crucial in keeping the nozzle from clogging. Stick with it, had both my printers dialed in printing flawlessly for months now.
@b1gg1e78rp2 ай бұрын
Awesome video all I got to say is WOW this is the Best video for beginners. I just bought a kobra 2 and I can't wait to do the settings when I print again. Thank you so much for all this knowledge.
@Patrick-dr1xb2 ай бұрын
There is no way the software can compensate, where the sensor it reading and where the nozzle is located are two different heights, they should stuck with the leveling that they used with the kobra max. they should not be shipping this out with a warped heat bed, its a defective product and anycubic needs to fix it.
@MissJettii2 ай бұрын
I will literally pay you to come do this to my printer. lol. Please! I’m so serious.
@parsonbrothersenterprise76772 ай бұрын
Can you provide the STL for the dial indicator?
@CrabShortPL2 ай бұрын
I have problem with bed level in kobra 2 pro but i have no idea how to calibrate it manually because it have only 4 screws without option to install distances
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
I would think you could probably still apply the silicon spacer mod, if the existing metal spacers are all the same size then you should be good to go. There is another video in the description of this one that is more of a how-to
@Enjoymentboy2 ай бұрын
I find it rather interesting how different people can be bothered to such drastically different levels by different noises. I've seen so many 3d printer videos where they complain about how loud the printer is, with my kobra 2 being no different, but these noises do not bother me in the least. I'm bothered more by the sound of the bearings or motors than I am the fans. That's not to say the fans are silent, quite the opposite in fact, but it just isn't bothersome for me. It's just background noise that I can tune out easily so the idea of replacing a perfectly functional fan just to try and make things a bit quieter is, in my mind, a ridiculous thing to do. Personally though I have found that proper ducting can make a bigger difference than an expensive fan. But I'm glad you found a solution that works for you.
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
as the old saying goes, to each their own 😊 I live and work in close proximity to the printers, one wasnt horrible but two were singing a loud song. Ducting could help if the noise was turbulence but this was definitely just a cheap server rack fan.
@Enjoymentboy2 ай бұрын
@@mark4jr You're absolutely correct and I hope I didn't come off like I was telling you that you did something wrong. I currently have 3 printers side by side, on the desk beside me, all printing away while I watch videos on KZread. 😊 Fans aren't an issue but those motors....i swear i can hear every single microstep. lol
@thecrispyfrogАй бұрын
I see your point. IMO the fans are too loud, but I don't like this solution because, as you touched upon, ducting is an issue. On the original power supply, the vents have been blocked with a plastic sheet to force the air to be drawn from vents further away. This factory hack has been necessary because they have used an off-the-self power supply instead of a custom-designed power supply for this printer. However, the designer of the replacement cradle has ignored this design change and included vents in their design, even adding extra vents in some cases. I would suggest to anyone wanting to do this modification to edit the cradle design, removing ALL the vents before printing it - the base of the cradle should be one solid piece with just the hole for the fan.
@miah13692 ай бұрын
Can you confirm the CPU Fan connector? Looks like a JST-PH2.00mm. If it is, could save your self from cutting/splicing wires and just run a single solid wire. If I find out before you answer I'll try to remember to update.
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
unfortunately im not familiar enough with connector types to be able to tell, i think your gonna have to cut the end off the pc fan regardless, crimp connectors would be an option as well
@miah13692 ай бұрын
@@mark4jr after pulling mine printer apart, it appears that this is an XHB2.54 2 pin. I just hate cutting wires on good parts :D
@Leseul3d2 ай бұрын
ho wow!, my neighbour love you hehehe the noise... wow!
@neurotictim12 ай бұрын
Any chance you could link the dial indicator mount file? It looks just like my Harbor Freight dial, and it would save me a ton of time.
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
the links are in the description of this video which is more of a how-to kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4pto6mmZs-yeMo.html
@neurotictim12 ай бұрын
@@mark4jr Thanks very much!
@Enjoymentboy2 ай бұрын
For the layer shifting...fought that for a LONG time. In my case the vref was WAY too high and motor getting too hot. Adjusted that and things got better but still happened occasionally. Player with acceleration and dropped it from 2000 to 900 and set jerk to 10. Have run over 2kg through it and haven't had so much as a single shift on my kobra 2 since. Considering how much more mass your max needs to move on the Y compared to my kobra 2 I have to wonder if too high acceleration might be causing you some shifting.
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
Can definitely confirm lowering acceleration does help. the thing is though I have two of these printers and one has never experienced layer shifts the other is prone.
@Enjoymentboy2 ай бұрын
@@mark4jr how hot does the motor get when you're printing? if it's too hot to hold that's prob the issue
@stevetaylor57382 ай бұрын
Great guide for anyone who is even remotely on the fence about checking it out. My K2Max was being a pain in my ass until I found this and followed it. First print after the guide, solid max-sized imperial dragon. Thanks Mark!
@DarkPrivateer2 ай бұрын
Installed the spacer mod you outlined, and used a straightedge to "eyeball" level it. I will go back and use a dial indicator later this week, but already the change has netted good results. Thank you
@DeepFakeFuorissimo2 ай бұрын
I did a calibration like you do, using silicone feet and dials. The plate has a maximum tolerance of 0.10mm between the furthest points. Despite this I cannot print anything on the sides, the noozle is very very low. They have already changed my printer once and the replacement one has the same problem. My last option is to correct the flat parts down and not repeat the auto level. Do you have advice?
@Anonymous5530612 ай бұрын
i wonder if the same effect can be achieved with small O rings under the spacers?
@bobreichel2 ай бұрын
Did you make the dial caliber attachment?
@Kasiasz_2 ай бұрын
How can I set order of printing?
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
I dont believe you can in this slicer
@RobertDavisDaily2 ай бұрын
Just installed the .6 nozzle really need settings for that. Have not found a single video for K2M settings for this. Forums have not helped so far. Thanks for the video
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
I played around with a 0.6mm nozzle, didnt find the sacrifice in print quality worth the time savings so went back. I believe I set the nozzle to 0.6mm in the slicer and left everything else related to the nozzle settings blank and it printed OK, definitely could have been dialed in better.
@camhaubrick29342 ай бұрын
were do i get the file to print that dial indicator bracket
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
its in the description of this video which is more of a step-by-step how-to kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4pto6mmZs-yeMo.html
@NatveTxn2 ай бұрын
Thank you for this video! Quick question: I can only see the "whiter" lines on the bed and not the small ones. I need to see the millimeters. I don't know what I clicked during the setup, but I saw them disappear. Help me, please. :(
@PoloHungary2 ай бұрын
its very hard to do this large bed perfect so many variable like like filament quality dry or not or slicing settings ,room temperature,heated bed temperature nozzle type ,bed leveling.... maybe easy to first lever height set to a bit more and width overlap 15-25% or the motors,frame equal ,not slip the belt
@thatstrami2 ай бұрын
Man you're a lifesaver thank you again can't wait to do this tomorrow
@thatstrami2 ай бұрын
I'm in the same exact situation as you I have two of these printers and I'm having the same low spots high spots it's so frustrating HELP! Is there a file for that attachment that you printed out?
@mark4jr2 ай бұрын
I put all the links in this more of a how-to video : kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4pto6mmZs-yeMo.html I have both printers dialed in pretty good at this point, letting them completely cool down before each test print was pretty key I think so the first layer went down with a relatively consistent level of heat saturation, also I think making sure everyhing it tight but not crazy tight is pretty important. For that I home the machine so the stepper motors are engaged and give all the moving parts a good wiggle
@thatstrami2 ай бұрын
@@mark4jr awe man you're awesome! Thank you so much for this video. I was about ready to return the printer and ask them to send me a new one but I would prefer to just get my prints a bit better with this technique. I just ordered the spacers they should be coming tomorrow and I will get the dial indicator from harbor freight. Can't wait to do this. Thank you again I really do appreciate it
@thatstrami2 ай бұрын
I just picked up the dial indicator from harbor freight and I received the silicone spacers can't wait to try to adjust this
Пікірлер
Question, I have a problem with the support they are really hard to remove, how do you fix deal with that ? It’s so difficult to take them off
There can be a lot of factors that cause this. Lowering the nozzle temperature might help. I find the more accurate the first layer, the better the supports release. I'd recommend printing this test print and adjusting the z-height until you get it close to perfect, if your printer is like mine it might take modifying the bed to get it level/flat before the first layer becomes consistent (I have a video on this) www.printables.com/model/671915-anycubic-kobra-2-max-bed-level-first-layer-calibra
the dial indicator in the link to the print is different then then one that i just bought from the link to the dial indicator
@@Kurto2021 in the file section of the print there were multiple options, if memory serves it was not the first option. Apologies if they changed the design on the dial indicator
@@mark4jr I was able to make it work. My bed was so far off from level
WARNING: DO NOT BUY THIS PRINTER (or any anycubic Kobra 2 printers, I've been having similar problems on Kobra 2 and Kobra Neo) I do not care if I come off biased or triggered, but these anycubic printers have took 5 years away from my life with problems. My office bought this piece of s***, a closed source firmware, with: NO OPTION to set e-steps, no extrusion/flow control whatsoever, disfunctional ABL (compensates incorrectly), no way to connect it to a PC, no manual bed leveling mesh or option to edit the automatic one, no way to level your bed, only way to change z-offset is during printing, incorrect automatic z-offset detection (varies by ~0.25mm on every auto level) VERY uneven bed, no way to calibrate stepper motors. I can't even remember all the other problems. I added springs and knobs to manually level the bed, and it helped A LOT, but it still wasn't enough because there are 8 screws and the bed surface is massive, so even if I manually tram the bed with them, there are still hills and valleys when printing something bigger on it. We bought it for 600$, I'd say it's not worth the trouble even if they gave me 300$ back. Piece of s***.
I definitely understand your frustration, and you have valid points. Unfortunately, as of today, there are no better options available for a large format 3d printer even close to the price point of the K2M that do not have the same exact issues/concerns. What I can say is I have two of these machines that have been printing flawlessly for almost a year now since executing the steps I outlined in this video. Should you need to modify a brand-new machine to get it to work? No, absolutely not. That being said, it's very gratifying being able to design and print BIG without breaking the bank
@@mark4jr Yeah, the price vs volume does make it enticing, but I've been printing for a long time, and I've been searching for solutions online for a month, I tried all sorts of fixes with no improvements. Thanks for the video, and sorry for the negative comment, I just wanna warn people. I do not mind tinkering and calibrating a 3d printer, but if anycubic is gonna deliver a piece of s*** like this with closed source firmware, than at least give me options in it OR open source it, and people will fix it for you. No matter price vs volume, if you can't get a decent first layer, everything is useless. How do I print something big on it, if the first layer looks like a topographical map of the Balkans?
@@Stef-an hey no worries at all! I keep hearing rumors Bambu is launching a large format soon 🤞
@@mark4jr Nice, let's hope it's not gonna be overpriced :)
Love this video, it helped a lot. At the 3rd interval you are talking about supports and that you'd get back to the paint on supports but maybe I missed it? If not, could you explain a little bit about that feature.
kzread.info/dash/bejne/k2GbzZicqLK0ctY.html
@@mark4jr I started the video at the link you sent but I didn't hear anything about the "paint-on supports" button on the left side, 2nd up from the bottom. Maybe I missed it?
Is there a way to add a pause at certain height, so you can add other materials or change color?
@@javomal not in anycubic slicer that im aware of, I believe Prusa slicer has this feature.
Where did you get the wire guide for the hot bed wiring. I need it.
@@devangpatel5285 www.printables.com/model/688059-anycubic-kobra-2-max-cable-drag-chain
Thanks for the tutorial! I think this is the only one on the new Anycubic slicer? Excellently done.
Mine prints offset, it kicks it and nothing is alined.
Great video! It really helped me out. Subbed!
👍
Useful video
hi, can you send me the file for the dial gauge? :-)
the link in the description of this video goes to more of a how-to guide with all of the links
Awesome… AWESOME! I have Kobra 2 Plus and i have the same problem. Thank you bro!
I don't think I've ever actually commented on a video, but I have owned my Kobra 2 Max for a week and have never gotten a good printout of it. I was about to return it when I found your series of videos and tried the leveling, and so far, things seem significantly better, so thank you for all of the work you put into this.
I've solved my issue by using some aluminum tape under the bed in the low spots, works great now
This made me chuckle! - Did this really work? How big did you make your Aluminum tape patches? and where did you place them? Would love to see a video of you doing this.😃
@@partoftheabsoluteone4960 oh yeah just print a super big and flat thing, like a level test, then when it's done put a reasonably sized piece of tape under the bed and make sure it's flat and re level, then u should be good to go
Hey, do you have the file for the dial gauge?
there is a link in the video description that goes to more of a how-to, all the links are in the how-to videos description
I also got this issue of shifted layers. According to my observations, these issues happen at quite big distance from build plate (around 20-30 cm), which means the weight of plastic is already sufficient. I reduced all accelerations to 5000 mm/s2, and till now I never got this issue again. Seems that in my case the motor skips the steps when the load of plastic is around 300 g or more, and inertia of build plate + printed model is too high for motor...
Just did mine cause stock fan was going out. I used the Noctura buck converter. All plugged up super easy! Thanks for the vid!
Howdy Mr. Foor, As a (now) retired Architect/Engineer watching your video was a wee bit of a joy for me. Your analysis/application process was most enjoyable. The fact that the Max has essentially a 'fixed' bed and relies on auto-leveling for accuracy is fine for their consumer base, but not as acceptable for those requiring a greater degree of accuracy. I count myself amoungst those ranks. Question tho'; Did you feel the need to lock down your heat bed screws once you leveled the bed? It seems that at least a dab of blue Loctite 243 would be prudent considering the constant and sharp acceleration loads the bed is subjected to repeatedly would dictate some level of locking down the screws. I presently own 4 Kobra Max's and 2 Kobra 2 Max's as they are superb work horses and all of them will addressed with some form of this 'upgrade' in mind, albeit I'll be planning on retaining the two center metal spacers to serve as the 'constant' and using the silicone spacers for the remaining six bed screws, since after watching your sped up portion of the video I did notice that you returned to the two center screws several times after adjusting the outer screws...I believe a solid center 'starting' point is not a bad idea. ; - )
the solid center point is definitely not a bad idea and I did consider doing that myself, hope that works out. I also considered adding loctite but so far its not been an issue whatsoever, I think the silicon puts enough tension on the screws they are not likely to move. Thanks for the feedback!
Thank You for Your video. Very good explanation
Third day I can't print because the bed is crooked! Now I'm thinking of writing a letter to Anycubic about their mistakes! Do engineers work there? Probably not! Thanks for the video, now I continue the fight!
contact tech support, they will likely send a new bed
thank you, werry nice exploration
Have you did this AFTER your warranty has expired ? Its loud but I dont wanna mess with warranty.
nah, but they also dont ship printers back for most warranty claims they will just send parts
I just ended up returning my unit and having them ship me another one. One word of advice by the units off of Amazon you get better customer service. The moment that I left a bad review customer service showed up out of nowhere and gave me top level customer service
Hello, I have a problem with my kobra2max, autoleveling doesn't work for me, no one gives me a solution, could someone help me? Please!
I'm having the same problem! I have a Kobra Max, not the 2. if you find something please let me know!
Hello, I have a problem with my kobra2max, autoleveling doesn’t work for me, no one gives me a solution, could someone help me? Please!
New sub, great video on this slicer, gonna binge watch yours on this slicer. Used Cura but I want to give this one a try. Will you do a video on the Organic supports and paint removing what you don't want etc.
your videos are great- im in a similar boat, but i have another strange issue which is print quality gets a little rough in a predictable way i.e. when i print a timing pulley, the north east face gets a little messed up. im wondering if there is something about how the head is bending the tube that causes underextrusion only in certain ways. as for the e step calibration, is there a way to just insert custom g-code at the beginning? i know anycubic doesnt make the initial estep param known but maybe there is some way of discovering it.
I had a chunk of filament stuck in my print head, ever since clearing it its been pretty smooth sailing and gorgeous prints. Replacing the little piece of PTFE tubing inside of the hot-end with capricorn tubing I think was also pretty crucial in keeping the nozzle from clogging. Stick with it, had both my printers dialed in printing flawlessly for months now.
Awesome video all I got to say is WOW this is the Best video for beginners. I just bought a kobra 2 and I can't wait to do the settings when I print again. Thank you so much for all this knowledge.
There is no way the software can compensate, where the sensor it reading and where the nozzle is located are two different heights, they should stuck with the leveling that they used with the kobra max. they should not be shipping this out with a warped heat bed, its a defective product and anycubic needs to fix it.
I will literally pay you to come do this to my printer. lol. Please! I’m so serious.
Can you provide the STL for the dial indicator?
I have problem with bed level in kobra 2 pro but i have no idea how to calibrate it manually because it have only 4 screws without option to install distances
I would think you could probably still apply the silicon spacer mod, if the existing metal spacers are all the same size then you should be good to go. There is another video in the description of this one that is more of a how-to
I find it rather interesting how different people can be bothered to such drastically different levels by different noises. I've seen so many 3d printer videos where they complain about how loud the printer is, with my kobra 2 being no different, but these noises do not bother me in the least. I'm bothered more by the sound of the bearings or motors than I am the fans. That's not to say the fans are silent, quite the opposite in fact, but it just isn't bothersome for me. It's just background noise that I can tune out easily so the idea of replacing a perfectly functional fan just to try and make things a bit quieter is, in my mind, a ridiculous thing to do. Personally though I have found that proper ducting can make a bigger difference than an expensive fan. But I'm glad you found a solution that works for you.
as the old saying goes, to each their own 😊 I live and work in close proximity to the printers, one wasnt horrible but two were singing a loud song. Ducting could help if the noise was turbulence but this was definitely just a cheap server rack fan.
@@mark4jr You're absolutely correct and I hope I didn't come off like I was telling you that you did something wrong. I currently have 3 printers side by side, on the desk beside me, all printing away while I watch videos on KZread. 😊 Fans aren't an issue but those motors....i swear i can hear every single microstep. lol
I see your point. IMO the fans are too loud, but I don't like this solution because, as you touched upon, ducting is an issue. On the original power supply, the vents have been blocked with a plastic sheet to force the air to be drawn from vents further away. This factory hack has been necessary because they have used an off-the-self power supply instead of a custom-designed power supply for this printer. However, the designer of the replacement cradle has ignored this design change and included vents in their design, even adding extra vents in some cases. I would suggest to anyone wanting to do this modification to edit the cradle design, removing ALL the vents before printing it - the base of the cradle should be one solid piece with just the hole for the fan.
Can you confirm the CPU Fan connector? Looks like a JST-PH2.00mm. If it is, could save your self from cutting/splicing wires and just run a single solid wire. If I find out before you answer I'll try to remember to update.
unfortunately im not familiar enough with connector types to be able to tell, i think your gonna have to cut the end off the pc fan regardless, crimp connectors would be an option as well
@@mark4jr after pulling mine printer apart, it appears that this is an XHB2.54 2 pin. I just hate cutting wires on good parts :D
ho wow!, my neighbour love you hehehe the noise... wow!
Any chance you could link the dial indicator mount file? It looks just like my Harbor Freight dial, and it would save me a ton of time.
the links are in the description of this video which is more of a how-to kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4pto6mmZs-yeMo.html
@@mark4jr Thanks very much!
For the layer shifting...fought that for a LONG time. In my case the vref was WAY too high and motor getting too hot. Adjusted that and things got better but still happened occasionally. Player with acceleration and dropped it from 2000 to 900 and set jerk to 10. Have run over 2kg through it and haven't had so much as a single shift on my kobra 2 since. Considering how much more mass your max needs to move on the Y compared to my kobra 2 I have to wonder if too high acceleration might be causing you some shifting.
Can definitely confirm lowering acceleration does help. the thing is though I have two of these printers and one has never experienced layer shifts the other is prone.
@@mark4jr how hot does the motor get when you're printing? if it's too hot to hold that's prob the issue
Great guide for anyone who is even remotely on the fence about checking it out. My K2Max was being a pain in my ass until I found this and followed it. First print after the guide, solid max-sized imperial dragon. Thanks Mark!
Installed the spacer mod you outlined, and used a straightedge to "eyeball" level it. I will go back and use a dial indicator later this week, but already the change has netted good results. Thank you
I did a calibration like you do, using silicone feet and dials. The plate has a maximum tolerance of 0.10mm between the furthest points. Despite this I cannot print anything on the sides, the noozle is very very low. They have already changed my printer once and the replacement one has the same problem. My last option is to correct the flat parts down and not repeat the auto level. Do you have advice?
i wonder if the same effect can be achieved with small O rings under the spacers?
Did you make the dial caliber attachment?
How can I set order of printing?
I dont believe you can in this slicer
Just installed the .6 nozzle really need settings for that. Have not found a single video for K2M settings for this. Forums have not helped so far. Thanks for the video
I played around with a 0.6mm nozzle, didnt find the sacrifice in print quality worth the time savings so went back. I believe I set the nozzle to 0.6mm in the slicer and left everything else related to the nozzle settings blank and it printed OK, definitely could have been dialed in better.
were do i get the file to print that dial indicator bracket
its in the description of this video which is more of a step-by-step how-to kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4pto6mmZs-yeMo.html
Thank you for this video! Quick question: I can only see the "whiter" lines on the bed and not the small ones. I need to see the millimeters. I don't know what I clicked during the setup, but I saw them disappear. Help me, please. :(
its very hard to do this large bed perfect so many variable like like filament quality dry or not or slicing settings ,room temperature,heated bed temperature nozzle type ,bed leveling.... maybe easy to first lever height set to a bit more and width overlap 15-25% or the motors,frame equal ,not slip the belt
Man you're a lifesaver thank you again can't wait to do this tomorrow
I'm in the same exact situation as you I have two of these printers and I'm having the same low spots high spots it's so frustrating HELP! Is there a file for that attachment that you printed out?
I put all the links in this more of a how-to video : kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4pto6mmZs-yeMo.html I have both printers dialed in pretty good at this point, letting them completely cool down before each test print was pretty key I think so the first layer went down with a relatively consistent level of heat saturation, also I think making sure everyhing it tight but not crazy tight is pretty important. For that I home the machine so the stepper motors are engaged and give all the moving parts a good wiggle
@@mark4jr awe man you're awesome! Thank you so much for this video. I was about ready to return the printer and ask them to send me a new one but I would prefer to just get my prints a bit better with this technique. I just ordered the spacers they should be coming tomorrow and I will get the dial indicator from harbor freight. Can't wait to do this. Thank you again I really do appreciate it
I just picked up the dial indicator from harbor freight and I received the silicone spacers can't wait to try to adjust this