Filming my van project and other Projects I work on.
Goal for my van is to make a 4x4 stealth camper van. To go camping on and explore places.
I also do a lot of road cycling and mountain biking. So you may see a very of different content on my channel.
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i had worst luck. ther rocker arm came off, cut the spring and the valve fell into the cylinder. catastrophe
@@Quesito-fn9fr yes, that’s pretty bad. I had a 6.2 drop a valve at work. It cracked the cylinder wall and busted the head also.
bad struts will also blow out ball joints, i learned this on my mdx. they dont make em like they used to thts for sure. 2014 mdx needed new front struts at 100k. I rode out my first 05 mdx to 211k never needed a suspension component replaces.
Makes absolutely NO sense to have overhead cams and still use rocker arms!! American engineering the worst in the world.. .
I agree. Over engineering
She's coming together. 👍
Thinkes
That's all I needed to know 😂
Lol. . Get it my boy...
Fan belt is squeaking. the one my pickup is doing the same thing.
Where are you located? I have a 2012 f150 5.0 that has same issues. Mechanics around me can't seem to figure it out. I tell them look on KZread lol
Eastern North Carolina
@@WrenchlifeinJoco Dang I live in Maine. I just changed my lifters and rollers and still have a ticking noise. Also loss of power sometimes. Any suggestions? My tick is intermittent. It ticks cold or hot and up to 2000 rpms then goes away.
@@jermiahanton3861 it took driving around 40 to 50 miles before the lifters blended all the air out on some of the ones I’ve done. I try to leave the new lifters submerged in oil over the weekend but sometimes it takes some miles to get all the air out. On one truck I did I reused the old cam phasers and that truck still had a ticking noise. Ever since then if I go inside one, I replace lifters, rocker arms, camshafts and phasers.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco Can a cam phaser cause ticking? Also I only replaced driver side rocker and rollers because the noise is on that side. Ford wants $1400 just for phasers
@@jermiahanton3861 yea ford parts are high! My opinion one side has the same amount of miles as the other. Just bit the bullet and replace both sides. You can use aftermarket lifters, rocker arms, camshafts and timing set. BUT run FORD phasers. Trust me, I ran into this on a 5.4 I will never put aftermarket phasers again.
Take an old tire tube and put on them straps. 👌
Do not spray “Dura-color” okay chief. Gotcha . 😂
Most Rustoleum says wait 48 hours before re-coat but I have found you need to let it cure for a week before you can spray ANYTHING on it. And sometimes that's not enough time. It is very good paint though once it completely cures.
I’ve made the same mistake. I think you need to let it dry for a couple days before adding the bed liner paint.
I thought about that too. It dried for only one day. Now I know. Lol
How long did the rustoleum dry before you sprayed the bedliner? Thanks
About one day.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco I’m not an expert, but my experience is that oil base paint can take several day to fully cure. You have to re-coat within the flash time, within an hour, or let it fully cure before re-coating.
Changed the heater control valve plugged thing back up truck won’t start
Wow im glad i ran across this video before i changed the alternator sure enough it was the multi fuse save mr alot of time and money thanks
How did you end up getting the heater valve out the bracket I pulled up on it had no luck of it coming out? Is there a way to unbolt the bracket ?
Best I remember I unbolted the bracket and pulled the hole thing out. The clip to release it is on the back side so it was impossible to stick a pick or pocket screwdriver in it while on vehicle.
Is there a place tounbolt the bracket I’m not seeing it, all I’m see is plastic piece where the heater valve goes into..
@@jasondjenkins I think I had to go though the fender well to get all the bolts. It was a pain in the rear. I’ll look at one of the trucks in the morning and give you another reply. I know that doesn’t help you right know, but I’ve done so much since then.
Ok thank you !
@@jasondjenkins I googled mounting bracket and it came to a bracket for sale on eBay. After looking at it I remembered it has one bolt plus bottle of bracket is snapped into frame. And looped around another hose with zip ties. I cut the zips ties. This is the eBay listing that pulled up. If you what a good look at the bracket. 2018 - 2020 FORD F-150 A/C HEATER SOLENOID CONTROL VALVE OEM JL3418C310EA
If you change one side do you need to change the other as well?
I always do. Both sides has the same miles. Plus I’m already in there.
What’s the part number on this ?
It’s been so long ago I have no clue. Sorry
My goodness thats a clean engine, what oil do you use?
5w20 full synthetic pennzoil
Ford things
I’ll do an update video next week on this truck. Monday will be braking it back down pulling bank 2 exhaust camshaft.
Have a 2017 f150 5.0 and it has a slight knock when i put it in drive but knock goes away when I put it in neutral/park. Any idea?
I seen that before on an older truck. (1993) with 351w It was the flex plate cracked. Other than that, that’s the only time I ran into that. Sorry I can’t be any more help.
Really helped me out being a youngin. I have a 05 ford f150 4.6 xl . Bought some off ebay and im having same problem on driver side. Was gunna try and wrap it with exhuast wrap but im actually a welder so thank you again
What did that overhaul cost top to bottom. Might be getting ready to do mine at 100k tap is getting louder 😖
It was around 1800 for parts best I can remember. All parts came from Ford dealership. ( I work for the government so have to buy from contract.) but you can buy the parts cheaper from Amazon. But you have to put ford phasers in it. I had a run in with aftermarket phasers on 5.4 engines. I only use ford phasers and sensors. Hope this helps. Thanks
I'm looking at one just like this, so I'm curious; how much did this job cost all told?
Cost of parts was around 250 best I can remember.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco thanks!
Mine is starting to leak just notice white in my oil about how hard and how long this this take to do
@@lukepartin4129 it really wasn’t a bad job. I had the head off in about 2 hrs.
Chasing a similar issue on a Ford reman, zero mile with run time only. Engine is whisper quiet at startup (for a Coyote) but once it reaches operating temp, all sorts of tapping on the passenger side, seems to fade out above 1800 RPM. Thoughts? 2011 F-150
I know on the ones I’ve done. The new lifters took couple miles before they quit down. Even let them sit in oil over the weekend. If it’s a reman engine, I would definitely pull that side valve cover off after driving it to see if a spring has broken or rocker arm not center.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco thanks for the reply. Even with some miles, sometings amiss. Repeatable only once engine reaches operating temp, no issues cold. It seems possbily the lash adjuster bleeeding down, not holding pressure? It's odd, I'll post back once I figure it out. Wrench on!
High pressure fuel pumps can be loud on these engines
@@sbullard332i this F150 is a 2014 doesn’t have hpfp. But yes you are right. The newer trucks we have 2018 has them.
Job done good. ✔️
Please get rid of that music, so I can watch the video…
😂
Heater stopped working completely, changed the heater control valve fixed it than about a month later I get no heat unless given more than half throttle not sure if it’s this valve again or not
The experience I had with heater control valve is it stopped working completely. What you are describing sounds like low coolant or air in the system. That’s just my experience
Working on a 19 5.0 had detonation and parts of the pistons broke away and stuck in the intake valve.
How did you get the old part off? Im stuck
I had to take the bracket off that the valve was connected to. Layed it on table to remove. It was a pain in the rear.
My buddy's car just did this. Thank you so much for making this video. 😊
What does a job like that cost? I bought a ‘18 F150 5.0. Same exact noise.
Just in parts we had around 1,600.00 all parts came from local ford dealership.
I bought a 2020 F150 5.0 "rebuild-able core" for a coyote swap, and I found part of a roller from a rocker arm and a bunch of needle bearings in the oil pan. So yeah, those things do fail. Not a cheap or easy fix either. Luckily I already have a different set of heads and don't have to deal with that problem. Those rocker/lifter failures typically cause this ticking noise.
so did that fix the cold idle problem? Im having the same issue..
Yes it did. But end up with system full of air and in order to get air out the system, I held rpm at 1500 for around 2 or 3 minutes.
My 3.7 liter makes similar sound when I listen with stethascope the solenoid for the purge canister is where I hear the clicking sound
Where you buy the parts ?
Local ford dealership.
I just purchased a 2018 rcsb f150 a few days ago. I’ve wanted one forever and finally found one like I wanted. I test drove it before I bought it and heard virtually no noise at all. Now I’m catching that “type-writer tick” at idle. It has 42k miles. I’m not really sure what to do with it. My good buddy is a mechanic at my local dealership and has spoken with his master tech who was informed by fords engineer that it was normal. I’m 22 kinda strapped for cash right now after just purchasing. Would it be ok to continue to drive it? Or should I switch to a secondary vehicle until I can get the money to get the truck checked out?
Ford also told us it’s normal. We continue to drive ours until it got to the point where it sounded like a very loud diesel. (The ones I’ve gone into has over 150k only one that had less than 100k and it ended up being the phasers) With only 42k, I would keep driving it.
@@WrenchlifeinJoco I gotcha well thank you so much for the info. I’m going to continue to drive it until it gets too bad. I have another vehicle to drive so I don’t have to solely rely on the truck luckily. Just sucks considering I just got it.
Do an oil change and add a bottle of “liqui moly ceratec“ to your oil. It’s a anti friction additive. It silenced the lifter ticking on my mustang gt. It’s $30 a bottle though but it works.
@@reiniersamsingh5325 my 5.0 just started ticking a day ago 120,800 miles on it.
I’ve got a 2018 f150 5.0 with an awful startup grinding/rattle… any idea where I should start as far as diagnosing the issue? Also has a loud idle like its a diesel
Sounds like camshaft phasers. There are one of each camshaft.
We bought a new fan to but it still doesn’t spin I don’t know what it could be
I would check power at the fan plug. See if power is sending to the fan. If not, check the fan resistor.
I greatly appreciate the video! Curious as to whether you know why it burns oil excessively, also?
Ours haven’t had a problem with burning oil. But I know a guy that had one that did. Carried it to dealer, dealer installed longer dip stick. Lol He traded it in
There is a TSB from Ford on this. Apparently you have to get the PCM reflashed and in doing so it sets the throttle plate to stay open slightly so it doesn't create so much vacuum that is consumes its own oil
Did the truck have a engine light on or show a code?
No codes at all. It’s amazing due to one rocker arm was completely off and laying in oil return valley.
I have the same year of F150 as you do with 39,000 miles. Mine is making the same noise as yours. my mechanic thinks it’s a rocker arm as well. Can you give me a ballpark of what it cost to have it fixed@@WrenchlifeinJoco
@@jonathanorchard4444 on this truck I replaced all 4 camshafts. All rocker arms and lifters. Those parts and gaskets was around 1,600 if not mistaken. ( just parts) I reused timing chains and phasers. Not counting the head work. Only replaced the one valve that was bent. Other valves checked out ok. I carried new valve and spring with the head to machine shop, and total cost of head work was 120. He installed new valve and lapped it in plus resurfaced head and exhaust manifold.
Thank you for sharing 💯
i have 247k on my 5.0,if you change your oil every 4k and add a quart of lucas to the oil they will run quiet and run forever. the 5.0 12gen is by far fords best engine
That looks like it'll be a headache to do.
Not too bad really. Time consuming .Rocker arm on bank 1 cylinder 4 came off and bent the intake valve. So I pulled the head this morning!
@WrenchlifeinJoco dang,might'a been easier to put the engine. For me anyway with my Santa Claus belly. Lol.
They build them to last through warranty, and that’s about it.
Have the same issue, ford tried to fix it, but the noise came back the following day. Told me they can tear everything down and see if there’s any further issues causing the noise. If nothing found, I can be out of 2k! But if something is found it is cover under my extended warranty. Should I take that chance? Or keep on driving?
Sorry it took so long to get back, I understand being out 2k and they may not find anything. But, if it’s the rocker arm roller bearing. It will only get worse. And other rocker arms will fail also. Causing noise to get louder. I would go for it, but would tell them you want to see the parts that come out. That’s just me
BUEN VIDEO PERO NO COLOCARON EL NUMERO DE CORREA SE UTILIZARA
What was the total cost? Parts and labor?
Part’s wasn’t as bad as we thought. Parts around 1,200. Have no idea what someone would charge for labor. I did it myself. Government job. Thanks for responding
At 21:51-52, you removed a vacuum line from the vacuum nipple in between were the THROTTLE body hoses go. At 32:20 you added and extended it and put it back. What is that vacuum line to because when i had my tps, AND air idle control valve replaced, that was left open and I did not know what it was a plugged it because I was having idle issues. Did not correct it.
Been so long, I’ll go back when I get a chance and look at the video and see what I did and let you know best I can. Thanks