Welcome to the Artist POD! Have you ever wanted to learn how to draw, or wanted to be an artist? This channel is focused on teaching you how to draw so you can build a business centered around your art. Everyone can draw--it's just muscle memory! I focus on art tutorials and sometimes take a back-end look at my own business. I post new videos every Tuesday and Thursday.
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ai could never 🔥this goes crazy I love it
it can unfortunately.
@@adarnia how? this was made with human hands and a soul
@@RosenthalBros Ai will just steal this style now that it's online.
@@adarnia dude I was just complimenting her art lol, don't be such a downer
@@RosenthalBros I know. great art. 👍 just commenting on the AI part. it's a downer
this looks great, love the expression!!
Thank you so much!
Hello 👋 I own a laser engraver and would love to engrave an Australian animal that you draw and post it on my channel with a shout out. Will be a fun project for both of us.
Love your work 🎉 😊
Thank you so much! I'd love to draw something for that! Did you have any particular Australian animal in mind for me to draw? Did you want it more expressive like the sheep, or for it to look more realistic? I'm about to go out of town, but am happy to draw something when I get back, and give you a shout out for your channel to see how the engraving goes.
@theartistpod4609 Im so excited, thanks 😁😁 Maybe a tasmanian tiger or tasmanian devil? They are very unique and beautiful animals. I'll let you decide so many beautiful creatures here in Australia 🇦🇺 😍
Dosent show us how to draw it
I've already used ChatGPT to help out with product descriptions on my Etsy store, but even so I found this interesting and useful. Notable that ChatGPT just "invented" the fact that you donate some of your proceeds to charity. 🤨 😀
It was a great card, thank you, I loved it❤❤ +1 sub
Thank you!
amazing talent! looks like thread!
Thank you so much!
What program are you using?
Hey amazing work. Do you coat the finished product with laquer or anything?
Rasterizing is sometimes better than lines for the etching or burning like wood signs
My friend's company only takes svg and dxf files. I have so many pngs, but I need to convert them all over. At that point I figured it'd just be easier to learn Illustrator, but that's been taking some time since I've never used it. At least I know Photoshop, so I think it's made it a little easier, but it's still taking a ton of time to learn.
You also might consider investing in an entry level laser and then you can put your art onto a lot of things other than tshirts
My neice started doing online classes to supplement her sales.
I appreciate your suggestions! I'm definitely experimenting with a lot of different ideas. I have done some private art lessons before--maybe that'd be a way to help. I hadn't even considered that in the middle of everything else I've been trying.
Awesome video and great information. Would you have a link to get the scratchboard that’s actually a board? I thought I had it but my order arrived today and it’s paper. lol.
Oh no! Here is the link I used to order mine: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IG2OXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where do you get your scratchboard from?
I got it from Amazon. Here is a link to what I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IG2OXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@theartistpod4609 Thank you!
After 60 yrs in laboratories and making art around dangerous substances and techniques I'd like to offer some suggestions. Titanium dioxide is a food/cosmetic grade ingredient sold by the kg . it is the basis for most of the solvent based paints that some laser engravera use. Using a water based mix with ethanol, red food coloring and washable school glue (I'll share my formula and technique if you're interested) and ethanol to clean the tiles if necessary, the coating ie easy to see when applying it and it washes off with water after engraving. i coat a box (100 white ceramic glazed clay...(more like art pottery than commercial tile) at a time using a HVLP spray gun, (Harbor Freight) applied outside and wearing a mask. Many tiles are commercially clean out of the box, but ai clean then with ethanol and the paper towels are dirty afterward. Greatly overlooked in allot of our art work is lung damage. Nano particles are easily suspended in the air (vaporized ceramics and TiO2) included plus agressive sprayed solvents can over time cause respiratory problems as well as working (cleaning etc) with many solvents. I use ethanol because I can get it cheap here in Mexico and it is potable, basically everclear for about $6 a gallon. Stove alcohol is a denatured ethanol available at camping stores and some big box hardware stores.Much safer than acetone or most commercial thinners. Wearing a mask around a laser engraver, especially those not enclosed is a critically good idea. especially during periodic cleaning and maintenance. Laser engraving is new to me to expand my lutherie and electronics endeavours. But l'm having lots of fun with my new Xtool D1 Pro 20w with additional IR head. I've done about 500 tiles and 4x4 stone coasters lately, exploring fun things to look at while waiting for your coffee or cocktail. Also glass engraving with some improvisssed coatings. Kind of like being in the lab again. BTW I like your natural appearance/ relaxed delivery. You can have a great channel...keep an open mind and keep learning as well as teaching.
Thank you so much! I appreciate the tips. And you're right--the dust that's being released with a laser engraver can be harmful. I've thought about a mask to be even safer. I do run the vent outside, and keep the lid closed while the laser is active, but there's still a risk. I appreciate you!
Very good idea and great result! I tried to engrave on some plastic with a thin metal layer using an LED laser, but the result was far from yours. P. S. Your art is beautiful!
Thank you so much!
could you use air to remove ash
Yea, probably! I've never tried, but that should work.
Just: whoa! It reminds me of environmentalists and their sense of the mission. I wonder, what's the story of that fox samurai!
Thank you! It was fun to draw.
you are fun to watch. but you don't technically understand the process. you don't need to clean new tiles. gloss will work, but satin heirloom white is best, lightly in 2 directions , not just one. burn wet / tacky or dry. exact same results. because the Ti02 just has to be present, wet or dry. its a chemical reaction between the Tio2 and heat which stains the glaze. the Tio2 changes its structure to reflect no light (black). you emphasized slow, not correct. one standard lightburn material will tell you the settings. fyi. at 2000 mm / min. it only takes 3 watts
✔️ Promo SM
Have u tried tio2 instead of white paint? You can run much faster and get great burn.. shockingly white paint is the worst..sandy, or off white also works better😊
Thank you for the suggestion! Nicky Norton commented and recommended Sandy Beige--I was going to try that the next time I did some tiles. I appreciate it.
Beautiful ! If you use just TiO2 with isopropanol 10 % TiO2 (m/m) you Can add a fond coloring to better sée thé paint on the tile Bye
Oh cool! Thank you for this! I appreciate it.
For better Blacks use Flat White Plus I heat tile with Hairdryer to appox 100 F BEFORE painting (my IR gun comes in handy ) Then I paint it within 10 minutes its ready to laser Smokey Beige is the highest TiO2
Wow, thank you so much! I appreciate you taking the time to comment and pass on some tips!
I want to compromise by drawing my own characters such as Marina Nanami
As long as it's your own characters you're fine to draw them! You can draw your own characters in the same style as someone else (as long as you're not copying the character or other aspects that would make people think it's the same character), just don't mention the person or character you're using as inspiration.
Fantastic work keep it up!🥶🥶
Thank you so much!
Thank you for this ~
I'm glad it helped!
Hi your speed setting what mm/sec or mm/min does that equate to? I have a 80W CO2 laser and I am getting grey but not black.
It's so adorable and very stylish showing your skill which is top!
Thank you so much!
Круто
Ты рил профи
Seems quite expensive at $10 for one board. I think it would be easier to buy a pack of basswood and paint them before engraving. Definitely cheaper though you have to spend time painting the boards. It looks good though. Of course you can use the thinner scratch board and attach it to something thicker like basswood.
Yea, I do agree. It is a bit more expensive for the boards unless you do it yourself. Or, like you said, you can get the cheaper boards and attach it to something thicker. I like the look and feel of these, and the detail is good enough you could probably sell them for a lot more once you apply a finish to it. The image is nice and crisp.
Woooow so cool :D
Thank you so much!
I liked the Muse 3D, I don't have $ 6000 dollars :(
Awesome!❤️❤️ Great video
Thank you RJ!
When you wipe off the piece does the surface feels smooth or rough? Thanks Greg
It feels smooth when I wipe it off, not rough. For scratchboard, it doesnt' cut down enough to make it feel rough.
@@theartistpod4609 Thank you for taking the time to reply. I gave my first try with one of my bird images following your advice and I was pretty happy with the result. I am using a 5W diode so I still have to nail down the settings.When I wiped with the microfiber it seemed to catch on the surface and I think I may have had too much power. I blew it off with the air assist hose and it really brightened up. Thanks again Peace Greg
@@nopriors Yea it might be a smidge too much power. If the end results still looked great, I imagine you're probably pretty close to the right settings. And you're welcome!
What a doll...
Hi, happened to come across your video on engraving on white tiles. I have the same exact Muse core with 45 watt laser and I've had the worse luck and even tried your settings and still not getting the desired results. getting ready to give up on white tiles using the white spray paint method. I seem to have better luck using cold galvanizing compound, sort of looks like grey flat color but seems to work better for me. Your final engraves look amazing. How do you prep your images or do you just bring them into RE3 as is and let RE3 process it? Thanks
I'm sorry it's not working as well for you! All of my images are digitally drawn in photoshop, saved as pngs, and then I just import them into RE3. I do have the engraving lens, and not the standard lens the muse comes with. It's the 1.5" lens--that might be making a difference too. It did take me a year to figure it out, making tweaks here or there. Even when I got close, it wasn't quite right, until I finally found the right balance of amount of paint on the tiles, and power and speed input for the laser. And even still, I make small adjustments for different drawings. If it's a really dark drawing, I might lower the power by 1, or if it's brighter, I might increase it by 1. Even a minimal change can make a big difference. Like a tile failing vs succeeding kind of a difference. I hope that helps, and that you can figure it out!
@@theartistpod4609 oh ok thanks. I do have the 1.5" Lense for the Muse and was wondering when I would have a reason to use it. Maybe now is the time. I would really like to get the NWT method to work but I know the cold galvanizing compound paint method works so if I still fail to get the NWT to work at least I have the CGC to use. Thanks.
@@ruizd14 Best of luck!
What is the best way to remove the dust after engraving on scratch pape? Thanks
I take a micro fiber cloth and gently rub it off. I don't put a lot of pressure, but the micro fiber cloth seems to grab the dust pretty well to clean it up.
@@theartistpod4609 thanks
Your patience is applauded to gradually home in on parameters that are best suited to your machine. My knowledge of how laser beams and lenses interact means that no otherr machine will be exactly the same as yours. Some will be close other will need significantly different settings.. It is all to do with the intensity of light you can apply to a single dot and how that light energy is effecting a dual chemical transformation. A cheap USB microscope will enable you to see what you are doing with your laser and how effective your parameters are. Understanding the details of the process rather than just the process will cut your learning time from months to hours. , This is a phenominal process that allows me to do 254ppi images easily and this is the only process I have found that allows me to successfully achieve 508ppi replication. see kzread.info/dash/bejne/hoqbz9GHYdrSmtY.html Using a 508 image does not mean you will automatically reproduce it. However, the unique physics an chemistry of this process allows creation of precision black dithered dots unachievable by any other process/material except a very expenve product called LaserTile...I'm unsure if they still exist? There are two videos that fully explore and demonstrate the science behind the NWT method if you are interested kzread.info/dash/bejne/X4BtlqaoaJTcXdY.html and kzread.info/dash/bejne/g6upzMeChNPOdtY.html Keep up the great informative videos because I envy your artistic gift . As an engineer with zero artistic skills, the best I can do is rely on the talent of others and try to find ways to faithfully reproduce thier work with a machine that was never intended to emulate a printing press. Best wishes.
For anyone with a 10 watt diode laser 2000mm/min at 100% works well.
Great video thanks, appriciate ir
Thank you!
I have an Epilog Mini 18 30W CO2 laser, when I tried the Norton White Tile Method I have to shoot the painted tile with 5% speed and 100% power just to get a darker gray. Did everything like you did except I'm in Europe so Rust-Oleum products are off limits for me but as far as I know every spray paint has TiO2 in it. Now I will try to spray paint a really thick layer on a tile and go 1% less speed, we'll se how ti goes.
I would also got a darker gray for a long time, before I finally figured out the right settings. There's definitely a sweet spot you have to hit, and even a small adjustment up or down of power or speed can radically change your outcome. As long as it's a light color and has the TiO2 in it, it should work. I know the darker colors don't have that compound, so it doesn't burn in. If it's reacting, and you're getting a gray, then I'd say it definitely seems to have it. Too much power can also produce a gray. When I realized that I actually worked the opposite way, and started from a low power, and increased it until I found the right spot. I played with a low speed, and bumped my power from 5 to 10 to 15, etc, until I hit the right setting. I hope that helps. Good luck!
@@theartistpod4609 Just finished the new test and I think the problem is with the material. It should be a ceramic tile but the laser literally burned into the material like 1 mm and as far as I know that shouldn't be possible. It was a bunch of tiles left from a cunstruction. Might go to the hardware store to get new ones.
@@gravirpapir-pont806 That can happen. CO2 lasers are a lot more powerful than diodes. Some people will burn into the ceramic tile and then use a sharpie to fill in the engraving. But then you have to seal it since you're burning through the top layer. We have to find the right balance to not burn through the paint and tile, but have enough power that the paint reacts. I hope you figure it out!
Awesome job.
Thank you!
Thanks that may help my banding issues. I’m hoping.
I hope so! I was definitely pulling my hair out when I kept getting banding and couldn't figure out the cause. I hope it helps!
Sorry - thought you were going to actually draw with a pencil - bye!
Sorry for the confusion--I'm a digital artist. The way I draw should still work with a pencil or scratchboard since I do very little digital manipulation. And I draw with a stylist on a tablet, which is very much like using a pencil on paper. Honestly it'd probably be easier to do with a pencil than it is to do what I do in Photoshop. Either way, I hope you find what you're looking for!
This is super cute!
Thank you so much!
Use a lint roller for most of the debris, then lightly wipe away the rest. Cheap lint rollers have too much tack so use 3m ones 😉👍
Ah that's brilliant! Thank you.
Beautiful!
Thank you!
THANK YOOOUUUUUU!!!!!!!!