Пікірлер

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  @therealspixycatКүн бұрын

  It moved 20 thou over 5" so 20/5=4 thou per inch

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  @StuartsShed2 күн бұрын

  Coaxial indicators are one of the most fun set up tools there is.

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  @OgiveBC2 күн бұрын

  Welcome, nice to have you aboard. Someone mentioned another similar but different indicator, see comment below. Has me very curious. Even the cheaper version I have is still pretty darn fun to set things up with. Lived without one for rather too long.

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  @mudnducs2 күн бұрын

  Geez…similar triangles .020/5 = x/34 X= (34/5) .020 X ~7(.020) Move tailstock .140” away from you No?

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  @dumpsterdave37102 күн бұрын

  Get a roughing carbide endmill. Guhring makes a series with Firex coating that I really like. Then just have at least air blast on it, and do your slots in incremental step downs, 50-100 thou at a time depending on material and diameter. Once it's all roughed out, come back with a finishing endmill to make it nice and bring it to size.

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  @OgiveBC2 күн бұрын

  Very interesting, I’ll look into that for sure. Always like trying something different. Hopefully I’ll try it soon and can make a video about it. Thanks for the info.

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  @TangentJim2 күн бұрын

  Benno - We are obviously wired differently . Before you finished your complicated explaination -- I had to take a mild seditive .What you are trying to accomplish is simple . The way you are going about it is complicated . I'm assuming that you want set up that shaft so you can turn it's entire length without any taper . Now I will open my Big Mouth . Using a Four Jaw Chuck - face off - Indicate and Center Drill for Concentricity. Put a Ball bearing Center in the Tail Stock . Position and lock the Tail Stock . Slide the shaft into the Ball Bearning Center . Go back to the Four Jaw Chuck and Indicate . Now both ends are running True . Indicate the total length of the shaft . The indicator will tell you that your Tailstock is out of line . Adjust the Tailstock so that it lines up . - Jim

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  @OgiveBC2 күн бұрын

  @@TangentJim yup, that sounds fine. How one adjusts the tailstock to centreline is up to the individual, think of it like an ice cream parlour with many flavours. The method describe in my video is just one of many, a take it or leave it dish in the smorgasbord. I like it because I can generally get to perfection in three or less adjustments, generally two, but sometimes even one. The make an adjustment then sweep methods is fine too, but more like lawn darts or pin the tail on the donkey rather than a calculated adjustment. Thanks for watching and commenting.

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  @TangentJim2 күн бұрын

  Benno - Your saying is going to bite you . " Indicate or Assume " You used a Three Jaw Chuck and assumed that the shaft was running True . -- Jim

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  @OgiveBC2 күн бұрын

  @@TangentJimtrue, ahh ,untrue, ahhh yup. Agreed. Give it a roll and indicate to verify and or take steps mitigate/correct. Good point.

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  @TangentJim2 күн бұрын

  Benno - You are a Bad Boy . You didn't follow your own advice . I'm giving you two demerits . -- Jim

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  @Mark4star13 күн бұрын

  So good to get videos from someone who knows what they are talking about instead of inexperienced amateurs (like me) posting videos showing or using wrong techniques. Innovation is good but basic, genuine experience and advice is invaluable.

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  @TangentJim4 күн бұрын

  Benno - You quickly fixed that Shit Show . I have one negative though . If the set screw backs off - the Brass piece can back out . I don't want to rain on your parade but that gives you something to think about. -- Jim

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  @walter674354 күн бұрын

  Wow thanks. Yes I was trying to set an angle on the compound slide using angle blocks. Thanks for taking the time to respond, it is very helpful for a beginner to hear "well none of these surfaces can be assumed to be true..." I deleted the comment because I decided what I was trying to do was a little foolish anyway. I was making a temporary balancing arbor for a harig grinder on a very old lathe that has not been trued at all. I got the thing made and it seems like it will be good to improve the balance on a grinding wheel or two.

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  @OgiveBC4 күн бұрын

  Right on, always nice to hear of success. If you have time look up “Tangent Jim sine bar”, lots of great videos and ideas there. If you do a lot of that sort of thing buy one of them whenever you can afford it. In the mean time, until it shows up, you can set angles the trig/math/tear your hair out way, search “lathe compound setting”, there are a few good videos there for sure. I have a couple ideas to add, including the lack of reference edges on the machine, and dealing with poor machine set up, but that will have to wait until I can make a video on it. Have a great day.

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  @TangentJim5 күн бұрын

  Benno - I've adapter your phrase " Assumed vs Indicated " We both agree tha indicators tell the real story. Your video display of various Indicators and tips makes my boat float . Nice Job ! -- Jim

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  @AdrianPardini5 күн бұрын

  Thanks

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  @TangentJim6 күн бұрын

  Benno -- Here is my Tooth Fairy Scenario . If you have a 5C Collet Chuck - use instead of the 3 Jaw Chuck. Your Indicator will Thank You. --- Jim

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  @OgiveBC6 күн бұрын

  Thanks Jim, don’t have collets for the lathe, Also the material is 1.5” dia. 4 jaw to the rescue? Not always worth the time to change chucks though………..not a space ship………haha. Maybe they used 3 jaw chucks at the space ship factory lately to make helium system flanges?

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  @TangentJim6 күн бұрын

  Benno -- Hey Jim " Nice Try but no Cigar " -- Jim

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  @StuartsShed2 күн бұрын

  Great series of vids - some good refreshers for me. This one I particularly like because I hadn’t seen discussion of testing concentricity of a long shaft by turning two witness diameters. I like the approach - hope to try it at some point.

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  @TangentJim2 күн бұрын

  Stuart - This is not a contest - it's an exchange of ideas . It's about the easiest way to get there. We are looking for the path of least resistance . I'm sure that you have heard this line before . The shortest distance between two points is a straight line. We are looking for the straight line . -- Jim

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  @StuartsShed2 күн бұрын

  @@TangentJim I understand. I apologize because I meant my comment to be a standalone note of appreciation for the video - and not a challenge to your excellent comment. I didn’t realize I was posting a reply to your comment - so apologies again. No argument intended. By the way, just subscribed to your channel also and am learning plenty from your content also.

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  @keithjurena93198 күн бұрын

  Awesome shop dog!

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  @keithjurena93198 күн бұрын

  316..tough stuff and stringy chips. Beautiful plus you timed the operations. I used to work in a plant that did stuff like this in addition to pressure vessel fabrication. They had a huge CNC burn table with oxy and plasma. Trepanning was not used as it took too long.

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  @OgiveBC7 күн бұрын

  @@keithjurena9319 ya,a cnc cutting table would be nice, not at this place for a few years yet I’ll bet……we’re very “traditional” (stuck in the past). Thanks for the comment.

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  @keithjurena93196 күн бұрын

  @@OgiveBC I hear you! That CNC burn table started out as an optical eye system which traced over drawings to make the cuts. It was a pantograph type system, I forget the scale

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  @Ratridez8 күн бұрын

  Very nice 👍👍

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  @TangentJim9 күн бұрын

  Benno - I've come up with a Plan "B" . Here is a step by step plan . Reverse the shaft in your Lathe Spindle . Stick out the side without square plate and indicate it in a 4 Jaw Chuck . Using your spider indicate the plate side . Now that both ends are running true . Center Drill the chuck side . Flip the shaft 180° - Re - indicate both sides again . Face and center drill the plate side . Now each end is square and running True . Now you are ready to for your steady rest . Does this make any sense to You ??? --- Jim

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  @OgiveBC8 күн бұрын

  Yup, that could work for sure. I’d still indicate along the part if I was turning along then length, indicate vs. assume.

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  @TangentJim8 күн бұрын

  Benno - In my previous comment . I forgot to mention one thing . Place the faced and center drilled Plate into the Four Jaw Chuck and indicate gently . Now insert your ball bearing center into the center drilled hole of the small end - it should run dead true . Now tighten the Plate side and indicate - again. Both ends should run dead true. Now indicate the total length of the shaft -- to see exactly what you have . Between the indicated ends you will find out if the shaft is straight or bowed . Indicating will tell the true story .The indicator reading will dictate your next move. If need be -- you can cut a diameter to accept the steady rest. Does this make sense ??? -- Jim

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  @TheAyrCaveShop10 күн бұрын

  I like the sled ...

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  @TheAyrCaveShop10 күн бұрын

  Good information...Thanks

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  @TangentJim10 күн бұрын

  Benno - Assumed VS Indicated . Assumed is like Rolling the Dice . Indicating tells the real story . -- Jim

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  @TangentJim10 күн бұрын

  Benno - Very interesting Video - I learned a lot . Obviously , it's not your first Redeo . -- Jim

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  @deltamachine205911 күн бұрын

  Clever, I'll have to remember that one

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  @ypaulbrown13 күн бұрын

  just wondering, why not chuck up in the 4 jaw, I think I saw one in the video, and just face off enough material to let the original slide under the carriage......love your videos, Paul in Florida.....

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  @OgiveBC13 күн бұрын

  Yup, sure could be done, one consideration was the bolt recess on the stock one is not right in any dimension. Also on my new one I’ll round both opposite corners some day and it will just drop in anywhere. Don’t want to chop the corners on the stock one.

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  @greggroos227113 күн бұрын

  Awesome lathe extension on the big lathe, be great to see that one in action. What are typical tolerances in prop shaft and rudder shaft work?

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  @OgiveBC13 күн бұрын

  The taper section of where the propeller mounts is pretty well plus/minus zero on the angle, ends up getting checked with Prussian blue and hand lapping if out. The small end of the taper is about plus 0.002, minus zero depending on the shaft size. The area of a shaft under a liner/wear sleeve is not so much critical on exact diameter but it has to be cylindrical, that is no taper for the liner length, say 2 to 3 feet. The ID of that heat shrink liner should be within a 0.001 end to end, preferably less. The OD of a liner is more a matter of pride than regulatory/rule. Say plus/minus 0.005” over the liner length not a big deal but always strive for less than about 0.001-0.002” so if anyone checks later they don’t think poorly of the last guy to work on it…………..if there is more than about 0.005 runout (depends on roller spacing) any anywhere due to a bend, it gets straightened.

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  @matter913 күн бұрын

  I’m not new to indicating but the more you look the more you see. With an open mind there’s always something to learn. This is just to say I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on the matter regardless of the format.

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  @matter913 күн бұрын

  Tap drill = nominal diameter - thread pitch Major diameter = minor diameter + thread pitch +/- … as the millwrights say, it’s not just good, it’s good enough. Pragmatism, then the pursing perfection 😅 But wow, that’s some fast work!

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  @matter913 күн бұрын

  🎶 The headstock bone’s connected to the ram bone The ram bone’s connected to the turret bone The turret bone’s connected to the … main casting? 😅

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  @matter914 күн бұрын

  Capsize a reef knot. Interesting, I noticed the similar structure to a full hitch some weeks ago stringing lacrosse sticks. I’m glad I found your channel.

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  @matter914 күн бұрын

  Hahaha genuinely surprised, going off shine and colour I was expecting the left hand oring to be old, shows me to jump to conclusions!

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  @matter914 күн бұрын

  Clever use of the id attachment!

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  @matter914 күн бұрын

  A bit of a suddenly popular opinion on social media these days, but drilling with the carriage is my go to. Dro is useable with no contortions, and turning centers drill with the carriage/turret anyway. Only drawback is with multifix a Morse taper or large boring bar holder might be a few bucks, but powerfeed drilling? Yes please! I pretty much only use the tailstock for support these days. Caveat is a heavy carriage might not have the same sensitive feel for small drills. 🤷‍♂️ Maybe an obvious solution would be to mount up an 8” digital caliper to the tailstock quill and body casting? I’m not a huge fan of that idea but could be a way to get +/-.001” precision without needing to add or remove anything or combine readings from dro and dial indicator. Then again how often is it that drill depths are tight tolerance? A BP style mill has a spindle running in a quill is how I think about it.

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  @boblawson100614 күн бұрын

  You know, over 50 years ago, we had a less pretty version, which was made under the trade name "Diacator" from (I've just re-learned) "Swiss Instruments Limited" Still available, it isn't as pretty as yours, admittedly...

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  @OgiveBC14 күн бұрын

  Interesting, never heard of it, just looked it up. Thanks for mentioning it.

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  @StuartsShedКүн бұрын

  Have not seen those before - a very interesting tool and a simple approach to the situation. Would not be too hard to make one if someone really wanted to.

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  @boblawson1006Күн бұрын

  @@StuartsShed Would not be too hard... First, let's take into account the "Hierarchy of accuracy" in measurement. You want to make something which indicates within reasonable accuracy to "tenths" (0.0001", or tenths of a thou... the equipment you make it upon, and with which you measure its components, must be made with components produced to considerably tighter tolerances) Many moons ago, we were led to believe a precision instrument components must be measured using a precision instrument that was made to limits a tenth of the width of those being produced... (it's not entirely true, but it's indicative of the necessity to measure precision instrument components with more accurate precision instruments...) The history of accurate measurement in engineering is an interesting one... We've been able to gauge (different, I know...) to millionths of an inch. Microns are 40 x a millionth of an inch... The history is fascinating... and yet, you'll find places where they have jig borers and standards departments with no temperature control... I knew a guy who worked at a place making parts for submarines, on a jig borer... "constant 20C, then?" I said... He had no fucking idea... worrying!

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  @ElThomsono15 күн бұрын

  I had a camp chair with a missing rivet, each time you open it the leg comes out and you have to wrestle it back in, usually in the dark or after a few beers. Someone asked to borrow it so I put a new pop rivet in, must've taken me sixty seconds. It had been annoying me for a decade.

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  @deltamachine205917 күн бұрын

  Have a good weekend. Who makes that green mill you have?

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  @OgiveBC17 күн бұрын

  It is a “First” brand also might be known as “Long Chang”. It’s a Bridgeport clone with a NST 30 spindle. I kinda wish it was R8. Oh ya, and a Bridgeport.

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  @StuartsShed2 күн бұрын

  You’re a philosopher. I very much liked your comments around what is known about the past, present and future states of a part. That is the very essence of reverse engineering. I shall work my way through your videos. Thank you.

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  @terrycannon57018 күн бұрын

  Look forward to more

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  @deltamachine205918 күн бұрын

  Let's see both

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  @dane917519 күн бұрын

  Any content you produce is greatly appreciated.🤔

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  @nts-xw9lr19 күн бұрын

  The two ten minute versions would be greatly appreciated.

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  @TangentJim19 күн бұрын

  Benno - Personally - I'd like to see Two Ten Minute Versions . It's a great chance to learn something . Like I always say. " 5 Lbs of shit in a two pound bag " --- Jim

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  @rbrown26419 күн бұрын

  what is rudder stock is this for a boat rudder ?

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  @OgiveBC19 күн бұрын

  Yes, it’s for a river style tug that has two propellers in fixed Kort nozzles and each propeller has two rudders aft of (behind) it.

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  @normsweet171020 күн бұрын

  Well done, cleaned up nice

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  @normsweet171020 күн бұрын

  That trepanning trick is very helpful; I recall watching a KZread lathe rebuilder make a “wrench” to remove a round head stock nut from a 1917 lathe …. I like it when I learn something new and useful (the lathe was a Hendey)

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  @TangentJim21 күн бұрын

  Benno - Obviously your math works . It confused the shit out of me . Allow me to add more confusion to the mix - this is my approach . Back off the steady rest probes to clear the shaft . Indicate at the chuck by revolving the Shaft . Go to the Tail Stock end. Indicate by revolving the shaft . Use a Rubber hammer . Go back to Head Stock . Re - Indicate the Head Stock . Back and forth a few times. Now close the Steady Rest probes gently against the shaft . You will be good at both ends . The lenght could be anywhere . That's my story and I'm sticking to it . -- Jim

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  @OgiveBC21 күн бұрын

  Hi Jim, if the lathe is pretty straight and level your way will work like a hot darn, also it requires that the workpiece is less than a couple hundred pounds I believe. If the lathe in question is as out of true as my big one, the axis of the headstock spindle and the bed are two rather different realities. I’ve tried all sorts of ways with heavy parts, indicating off the chuck face to the part, mount an indicator on the tailstock end of the workpiece and indicating off the tailstock etc. any way that gives you a not tapering part (unless that’s what you want) is a great way.

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  @TangentJim20 күн бұрын

  Benno - If the lathe is pretty straight and level your way will work like a hot darn. I reject that statement . How does your method make the Lathe Bed True ??? --- Jim

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  @OgiveBC20 күн бұрын

  It does nothing for the bed of the lathe, and I apologize if I said that it did. It allows you to get a segment length of the workpiece parallel enough with a section of the bed that when you turn the diameter of a part, in that same area of the bed that was used to indicate, the inherent taper will be as minimal as possible without resorting to adjusting the cross slide setting during the length of cut. Very long cuts will still be a big problem. One that is proportional to the twist in the bed………..of the lathe.

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  @TangentJim20 күн бұрын

  Benno - Again -- Indicating both ends would accomplish the same thing without the complicated math . I suggest you try it on one shaft -- Jim

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  @OgiveBC20 күн бұрын

  ⁠thanks Jim, I’m very familiar with the method you describe. I’ll be making another video about this subject soon. Thanks for the input and stay tuned………

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  @OgiveBC22 күн бұрын

  Thanks Jim, really appreciate it. More to come, I just found out that I didn’t hit record on a segment for the next video instalment. Unreal. I’ll have to reshoot next week. I was filming late in the day, late in the week, wasn’t running on all cylinders……..

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  @TangentJim22 күн бұрын

  Benno -- I like your Video. It requires a lot of up front planning so you don't paint yourself into a corner . Well articulated safety warnings . You work hard to make money . I tip my hat to you. --- Jim

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  @OgiveBC21 күн бұрын

  Thanks Jim, really appreciate it. More to come, I just found out that I didn’t hit record on a segment for the next video instalment. Unreal. I’ll have to reshoot next week. I was filming late in the day, late in the week, wasn’t running on all cylinders……..

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  @OgiveBC21 күн бұрын

  I think when I tried to reply earlier I posted instead of replied perhaps. Someday I’ll learn which button to push?

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  @RustyInventions-wz6ir24 күн бұрын

  Very nice work. I want to build a steady rest for my lathe.

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  @OgiveBC24 күн бұрын

  Funny how when one builds something, you never say later that you wished you had delayed the building/doing……

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  @stefanfoot304724 күн бұрын

  I was anxiously waiting to see if my reputation was intact 😅

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  @Cheezeball9999926 күн бұрын

  Well given that you did this, I would assume that it's fine. I used no math, of course.

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  @OgiveBC26 күн бұрын

  This is the first time I have tried with a full length bar. I had a hunch but no mathematical proof. Will do an answer video soon. Thanks for commenting.

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  @stefanfoot304726 күн бұрын

  Mechanical engineer from the Netherlands here. I had to convert everything to metric as we don't use freedom units, but given your information it can be treated as a cantilever beam of 6.7 meters. With a density of 7850 kg/m3 only supporting its own weight. 1045 steel has a yield stress of at least 300 MPa. Doing the math, the highest stress will be right at the point of the sling and will have a static load stress of 182 MPa. So, short answer is you will be fine. As @chillbro1010 says, as long as you do it smoothly you will be good. Jerking movements can amplify the stress a lot which could lead to bending. Also don't hang it like that for too long. Especially if it is warm out. Creep stresses can cause deformation, even if you are well below the yield stress. That is why shafts on big power plants are always kept rotating slowly during down time, to prevent sagging of the shaft due to creep stresses.

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  @OgiveBC26 күн бұрын

  Welcome from Canada! My grandparents on one side of the family came from the south part of your country. Thanks for the great reply, sorry about the imperial units. I’ll do an answer video soon. Almost all bar stock here is supplied in 20 to 24 foot lengths. Would an increase in diameter and not length result in a same better or worse condition? Also we have several forklifts and the one shown in the video has the shortest forks, the larger has forks at least twice the length, so would lessen the bending moment a fair amount. Not how we usually /ever handle material however. Thanks again for the comment.

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  @impactodelsurenterprise244025 күн бұрын

  Wow learnt new things today

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  @stefanfoot304725 күн бұрын

  @@OgiveBC Oh very nice! I'm actually originally from South Africa, but have been living near Amsterdam for 2 years. So I went ahead and simplified it for you. The following calculation is only really applicable for 1045 steel as other steels might have different densities and yield characteristics. But in a pinch should be accurate enough for most kinds of steel. Use the equation: Stress % = 46 * free length^2 / Diameter With it you will be able to calculate the stress in round stock. The free length is the length of the unsupported section, in feet and diameter is in inches for your convenience. This will give you a percentage of yield stress. So if that stress % is above 100, you might get bending. Below 100% you will be good. So to answer your question. The longer the free length, the worse, the thicker it is, the better.

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  @OgiveBC21 күн бұрын

  ⁠I’m very impressed with the formula you have created. To me it is just magic that you could reduce a complex question to a simple equation. Thank you. When I make a final video where I put that bar on the rollers to prove it’s straight, may I show your comment in that video and give you credit for it? I’m sure some people would be amazed to see it.

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  @chillbro101026 күн бұрын

  Assuming a completely static system using the worst case numbers I'm getting about ~8,000lb of force at the fulcrum. In my very unprofessional opinion as long as you lift smoothly and don't go bouncing around and putting accelerations on it you shouldn't hit the yield point while rigging with a 2 inch strap. However real life isn't so cut and dry, I would put it down on pallets while not actively moving it. You're more likely to damage the strap and drop that bar 4 feet (which would probably put a permanent bend in it). Check your straps regularly and before every lift and especially when doing stuff that looks a little iffy like this.

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  @OgiveBC26 күн бұрын

  Thanks for the comment, we usually move bars by picking them up from the middle with a forklift and the bar sideways, as I’m sure most people do. I’ll do an answer video soon. Good point about the sling, it would see a lot of strain. As to the bouncing while driving…….could get interesting

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  @Cookie0fPowerАй бұрын

  Neat. Go magnets!

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  @meatbyproductsАй бұрын

  Ohh boy, that bit got red. Neat watching something come together.

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  @OgiveBCАй бұрын

  You bet, they are fairly pricey Seco brand inserts, they can take the heat!