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Would a cleanable emitter work in place of non cleanable woodpecker emitter for a vineyard on well water? Yes, I have a filter.
@yeahrightmateКүн бұрын
Hi, thanks for your reply. I am living in the Philippines where everything is done the way it was 50 years ago in the rest of the world and these brass compression fittings is what a lot still use when they are upgrading from the old GI pipes to what they call high pressure pipe but nobody uses a proper tool to do the job. They use a cigarette lighter to heat the pipe and then use the corner of the lighter to flare it and then after a few attempts at it you get it to seal. I have searched everywhere for a flaring tool for PVC but I only can find for brake lines so I don't know if this will work or not.
@SuperPashaKittyКүн бұрын
This is a helpful video! I’d love to see a more in-depth breakdown on some of the possible leak causes, particularly the water pressure
@dripdepotКүн бұрын
I'm glad this was helpful! And you bet, happy to add a more in depth look to the list -- you said the magic words with water pressure, I love testing things with increasingly high water pressure until they -blowup- start leaking :)
@suehenderson6687Күн бұрын
What a great clear video for a first time drip installer!! Thank you!
@dripdepotКүн бұрын
You're very welcome, thank you for the comment as well! :)
@yeahrightmateКүн бұрын
Hi, do you know anything about 1/2" high pressure PVC tube (PE) that uses brass flare nut fittings and if so what tool is used to flare the tube.Thanks.
@dripdepotКүн бұрын
The tool used is actually often just called a "Flaring Tool." Searing google for "Flaring Tool" brings up a lot of results, you might want to try more directed searches like "PVC/PE Flaring Tool" or "Plastic Pipe Flaring Kit" and variations of those to see if you can locate one that will work with your pipe. With all that said, unless you specifically need to use brass flare nut fittings, you could consider going with a different fitting type so you don't have to flare the end of the pipe -- primer/glue slip fittings make a nice permanent connection. This can vary depending on application of course, but I wanted to mention it just in case :)
@gfabulous102 күн бұрын
Thank thank you so much for this video.
@dripdepotКүн бұрын
You're very welcome, thank you so much for the nice comment as well! Great way to head into Friday, I appreciate it :)
@kzziggy2 күн бұрын
¼" 🍆 😂
@tammyperlman46772 күн бұрын
Another excellent instructional video with detailed step-by-step explanations. Thanks for including the links to the products in the video description.
@dripdepot2 күн бұрын
You're very welcome, thank you for the great comment as well!
@kermitdafrog4442 күн бұрын
Please make a video about drip irrigation on a slope/hillside
@dripdepot2 күн бұрын
This is a great suggestion, thank you! Added to the list, this is one we will for sure create at some point. In the meantime, I can help you get started -- growing on a slope or hillside, in regards to irrigation, is all about pressure compensating emitters. Pressure compensating emitters stay uniform, with those at the bottom (and thus under more pressure) staying uniform with those at the top where pressure is lower. CNL emitters are also often used on slopes -- CNL means "Check, Non-Leak." What CNL does is prevents low point emitters from draining after the system shuts down. There's some other details we'll cover in the video (thank you again for the idea!), but pressure compensating and CNL emitters are the most important components to growing on a slope :)
@aznbballr242 күн бұрын
My auto drain valve is at a low point, but just shoots out water in a stream the whole time, causing the system to depressurize. Any advice? Thanks
@dripdepot2 күн бұрын
It's possible the auto drain valve got stuck in its open position -- give it a thump or two and see if that gets it working again, if there's some debris (or if it simply got stuck and needed some encouragement) this might loosen it and get it working again. If that doesn't do the trick, it's possible that particular one was bad to begin with (if you got it from us, let me know if it doesn't get up and running so I can get a replacement out to you). One other possibility is a bit more remote, but during pressurization it may not be receiving enough pressure to close the valve -- I say this is less likely a possibility as they close at reasonably low pressure (as they have to since they close during pressurization), but it may be worth doing a quick check of pressure there with your hand by removing the valve and just getting a feel for how much pressure is coming out. It doesn't need to be exact, if the pressure feels reasonable to you, it should be enough. If it feels like a weak trickle, it could be the cause.
@TropicalDingdongLifestyle2 күн бұрын
@dripdepot Hey great video. I'm planning out my irrigation system for about ~150 vanilla vines/ fruit trees/ raised bedsI've got planted across my property and using this video as a guide. One concern I've had that was an issue for me in the past when I used soaker hoses, was that it seems like I didn't get even distribution of pressure along the hose. I'm going to be designing the system over the next couple weeks, and I've got several different zones planned (one for vines, one for beds, one for trees, one for a small patch of lawn). How should I be thinking about line pressure? The zone I really care about is for my vines, and while I haven't decided on either sprinklers or mist, its important to me that all emitters are flowing at pretty much exactly the same rate, and its going to be a particularly long run because most of my plants are planted along my fence-line. What steps can I take in the design phase to ensure I'll get good, consistent flow rates from my emitters for a given zone? Do I risk emitters at the end of a run emitting less than emitters at the origination of a run?
@dripdepot2 күн бұрын
Very good question, and uniformity is one of the most important parts of irrigation, so you're on the right track in asking about it. The primary concern regarding pressure in your upcoming project is going to be in friction loss -- that is, pressure lost from friction between water and the wall of the tubing. Friction losses primary variables are: The material of the line (poly, PVC, etc), the diameter of the line, the overall length of the line and the flow going through it in GPH or GPM (which is the sum of the flow rate of all emitters operating at once). Basically, you want to minimize friction loss to a reasonable amount to ensure all emitters have enough pressure. I'm going to link a video at the end of this comment that goes into a bit more detail -- I try not to answer questions with videos, but the information is a bit much for a comment reply, the video will be able to provide better detail. Another factor to uniformity that's similar to pressure (and this is one where I most often see mistakes made) is the flow rate of the water source versus the flow rate of the system. You want the flow rate provided by the water source to exceed the flow demanded by the system. When the system flow exceeds the flow of the water source, some emitters are starved of water and uniformity goes out the window -- the symptoms of insufficient flow are very similar to those of insufficient pressure, so a lot of times someone will think they don't have enough pressure when in reality they don't have enough flow. As a quick example: Let's say you were using 10 sprinklers for your vines and each sprinkler put out 25 GPH. That would be a system flow (or system demand) of 250 GPH. If the water source only flowed at 200 GPH, some of those sprinklers would be starved of water. In the example above, that 250 GPH in system flow is also the same number you'd use to calculate friction loss, so you can account for both pressure and flow with that same system flow number. The solution for both problems (low PSI, too low of flow) is pretty easy in simply zoning the system into two or more zones, it's just best to account for it first so you can plan for it in the design phase -- much easier to start with knowing how many zones you need than try and add more later. Ok, I'm going to link two videos here -- this first one is about sizing a mainline. It covers friction loss in pretty good detail: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mGxlpKqKnrvPYLw.html This second video is how to test the flow rate of your water source. Are you going to be using a hose bib? If so, that's exactly what we're testing in this video (though you can use the same method for other water source types): kzread.info/dash/bejne/pnusrMOqgcjNaZc.html I know this is a lot of information, so please, don't hesitate to send over any follow-up questions that come up. I'm absolutely happy to answer any questions (and I think asking them is the right way to go, measure twice, cut once and all that). :)
@milkrecu3 күн бұрын
This is a classic disaster of technology and trust misplaced. Is this an intentional miss use of technology? All manufacturers should look to the LONG term implications of their industry.
@dripdepot2 күн бұрын
In this case it's actually more about physics -- manufacturers produce these different sizes of 1/2" tubing for different applications, one of the largest of which is commercial farming. In commercial farming, vast amounts of material are used and if the physics (particularly friction loss and water velocity) call for 0.520" inside diameter tubing, they understandably don't want to spend more on 0.600" inside diameter tubing. On a large commercial project, this can translate into tens of thousands more dollars, not to mention the wasted material since the larger diameter may not be taken advantage of. I think the solution to this is going to end up being listing sizes in metric (and we're already seeing this to some degree, even in the US). Doing so pretty much eliminates this confusion, as you can grab 13mm fittings for 13mm tubing, for example. This will allow for less wasted material and at the same time eliminate the confusion in tubing and fitting size compatibility. While it's unlikely everything is going to go metric any time soon, hopefully the trend with tubing continues to catch on :)
@mjkolker41353 күн бұрын
Really like your video and explanation thank U .. but how how far from the tree stam do I make the circle around the tree .. my fruit trees are3 - 4 " thick stams .. lemon, lime, j& ackfruit tree
@dripdepot2 күн бұрын
This can vary on the type of tree, but usually on trees of that size we'll go about 6" to 12" from the trunk of the tree, or about halfway through the diameter of the canopy (since many tree's drinking roots are about the same size as the tree's canopy). In common loamy soil, water will spread about 12" from the point of drip, so this distance can get you very thorough coverage of the root zone :)
@DCEventphoto3 күн бұрын
Done
@GardeningwithDave3 күн бұрын
Impressive video Adam! The self watering rock was my personal favorite ❤.
@dripdepot2 күн бұрын
Thank you Dave! I'm particularly fond of the watering rock as well, such a unique concept and it works outdoors or indoors. When making this video we realized vacation watering options are actually fairly limited, so hopefully we get to re-make this video some day with a ton more options :)
@jeffcardinal54343 күн бұрын
I have bought two of the tree kits for hedges and bushes. THEY ARE AMAZING! Especially paired with a WiFi water timer. Great products.
@retire14pattaya93 күн бұрын
I go for months so this method won't work. I pay someone to water. Indoor plants.
@DCEventphoto3 күн бұрын
my son-in-law bought the kit for father's day.
@dripdepot3 күн бұрын
Perfect! I'm going to send out a replacement to that address -- I'll send the one that does better with high pressure :) If you get a chance, edit the comment to remove the address -- you never know on the internet lol, that's why I never put our email address in the comments, I did one time and the amount of spam we got was crazy. I'll get that order set, we'll have it en route either today or tomorrow morning, Brian will get an email with the tracking -- have a great evening out there!
@DCEventphoto3 күн бұрын
thanks for getting back to me. We ended up calling a plumber and installing a pressure reducing valve on the main. We were at over 100 PSI. The valve reduced it to 70. Even after the valve we still had the loud vibration sound. The only thing that helped is taking off the backflow preventer. In your mind, am I taking a chance of dirty water entering the household supply? Also, do you have a procedure for the end of the season!
@dripdepot3 күн бұрын
You definitely want the backflow preventer on there -- even though the odds of contamination are low, they're not 0, so best to have one. Were you using the brass one? If so, that could be the guilty part -- at higher pressure we've experienced some noise caused by that one as well. If you were using the brass one, reply here with your order number if you have it. If you don't have the order number any more, contact us on our site (linked below) and let me know the email you used or the shipping address and I can search up the order and get a different one sent to you so you can have the protection without the sound :) Here is the contact us link just in case: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- you can just put "Attn Adam" or something similar in the title and I'll take it from there :)
@josephgoldstein97353 күн бұрын
What are the 6 different attachments in the the video when you say, " for odds"? I have them, but not sure how to use them. Thank you for your videos 😊
@dripdepot3 күн бұрын
The ones on the screen at the time are the end caps you put at the end of your tubing to close it off so it can be pressurized -- the end caps look almost identical to the Hose Swivel x Tubing Adapter (when upright they look the same). The Hose Swivel x Tubing Adapter is the part that connects the mainline tubing to the water source -- the hose swivel end has standard hose threads so it can be attached to a standard outdoor spigot, garden hose or head assembly parts (head assembly parts being those that go on the hose bib). The other end is where the tubing is connected :) Happy to identify any parts if any questions come up!
@liliyaskubish96805 күн бұрын
Thank you for this video. I was wondering if I should burry the micro tubing with drippers under the mulch or leave it out. You are saying the emitters on the tubing will get clogged, so probably I shouldn’t burry them. But I watched some other videos and people say animals like squirrels and chipmunks will chew on the tubing to get water, especially during hot spells. So burry or not to burry?
@dripdepot4 күн бұрын
You have it right that burying slightly increases the risk of clogging -- less so when it's buried under mulch than when buried under soil (but we still see both done). In regards to critters chewing on the tubing, that's definitely correct whether buried or not, they have no problems digging through a little mulch or soil to get to the water. With small animals, we usually find the most effective method is to simply provide an easier source of water (water fountain, water feature, etc). They'll go for the easiest source :). With burying it basically comes down to personal preference for the most part (though I usually avoid direct soil burial in my own garden). Burying under mulch increases efficiency on what are already efficient irrigation systems, but at an increased risk of the occasional clogged emitter (which to be fair, are fairly easy to fix, and in my experience pretty rare).
@Daedal715 күн бұрын
Watching your videos to customize my kit before I order. I notice you didn't seem concerned about going through the middle of the garden area. Is it ok to run the mainline through a high-traffic area? It makes the most sense to do mine that way, too, but I want to be sure it's ok.
@dripdepot4 күн бұрын
This is a great comment, and if I could go back I think I would address it in the video, as you bring up a really good point. You are correct, in the video we weren't concerned with just running the tubing through the middle of the garden -- the house we installed that one at has no small children who might be unaware (or quickly lose focus on) of a trip hazard like tubing. It was fenced off as well, so less concern about guests or visitors who are unaware of the tubing walking through the garden. And with all that said, the tubing is pretty small and during daylight hours very visible. If there's not a lot of foot traffic in an area, it's very common to leave it above-grade. If there were young children (or a lot of foot traffic) I'd likely bury the mainline in high traffic areas. Great comment, thank you!
@Daedal714 күн бұрын
@@dripdepotAhh, the mainline can be buried! That will work nicely, thank you.
@dripdepot4 күн бұрын
@@Daedal71 You're very welcome! If you bury it, do it like PVC (though you don't have to go as deep) -- build a trench of soft crumbly soil for it to lay in, pull out any rocks or sharp sticks, and you're goood to go :). In my home garden I probably have 3/4 of my tubing buried and the rest above grade -- I've made more repairs in the above-grade parts (dang raccoons) than I have the buried parts.
@Daedal714 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot thank you for the tips!
@LeticiaSeedorf5 күн бұрын
Very informative. i am trying to repair the drip system a landscaper installed in my front and backyard.
@LeticiaSeedorf5 күн бұрын
I just trying to fix the drip system a landscaper installed in my front and backyard. thank you so much for the very informative instructions videos.
@dripdepot4 күн бұрын
You're very welcome Leticia! And I'm glad to hear you're repairing it yourself, definitely big savings over calling out the landscaper to repair it, and you'll find it's pretty easy to repair (and once you've done it once, it'll be even easier if you ever need to again). If any questions come up, don't hesitate to reach out, more than happy to help you get that system up and running!
@angelaj27716 күн бұрын
My water does not drip out of the 1/4” line it sprays like a fire hose. I have a 25?psi
@dripdepot4 күн бұрын
Happy to help! And you bet, even at 25 PSI a lot of water can come out of the end of a run of 1/4" tubing -- in most cases what you'll want to do is end that 1/4" tubing run in an emitter of some type, like a button dripper. The dripper further controls the volume of water that comes out. Most 0.5 GPH drippers will put out their 0.5 GPH at 25 PSI (and close to 0.5 GPH at anywhere from 10 to 30 PSI). If this is for a run of drip line (the 1/4" tubing that has holes at evenly spaced intervals) all you have to do is close off the end of it with a goof plug so that all the water is available for the holes (which have emitters beneath them) in the drip line. Just in case, I'm going to link both a button dripper and a goof plug below so you can check them out if you're unsure: Button Dripper: www.dripdepot.com/3213 Goof Plug: www.dripdepot.com/1176 If I misunderstood anything, just say the word :)
@sunhose6 күн бұрын
Good
@Ashton1230827 күн бұрын
The ultimate kit has a T filter but no canister. Is this something that is purchased separately?
@dripdepot5 күн бұрын
You could purchase it separately if you prefer the canister filter, but you might not need to -- the tee filter and canister filter, as far as the actual filtration goes, are nearly identical at 150 and 155 mesh. Basically, both have very fine filtration with those mesh sizes being smaller than the average size human hair :)
@rudeliorodriqueziii10907 күн бұрын
you can probably use zip ties on the barbs
@dripdepot5 күн бұрын
That's a great point -- with the smaller barbed fittings, in a low pressure system, there's a good chance zip ties would work -- you'd want them UV treated (if it's an above-grade run of tubing) so they don't get brittle, but I don't see any reason they wouldn't work :)
@NotSoLiberal8 күн бұрын
What if it still leaks after inserting the goof plug even when the hole doesn't look that big. Can you put some sealant around it ?
@dripdepot5 күн бұрын
Sealant might work, but there could be some downsides if any of it flakes off and gets into the tubing (or is toxic to plants, but that might not be an issue if it thoroughly dries first, but flaking with age could be). I'd first try the large end of the goof plug and see if that does the trick -- it won't be easy to get in, but once it's in the larger seating surface could do the trick. If that fails, there's always the repair coupling as well -- just cut the damaged portion out and then re-join the two sections with a coupling (couplings are pretty inexpensive, so it ends up being a pretty cheap fix, but I'd still try the large end of the goof plug first) :)
@ReefMimic8 күн бұрын
Well tried it out for a year and found out the plunger was stuck closed thankfully. Took the cap off and the plunger spring inners fell out in pieces. Was non fixable. So switching back to the same brand end cap with just the screw cap. Ordering more parts from you after this 👍🏻
@dripdepot5 күн бұрын
Weird the plunger got stuck! Was there some mineral build up in there? If so, a soak in a vinegar type solution might unstick the plunger if it happens again :)
@EthanLandau9 күн бұрын
Thoughts on wifi vs normal digital timer?
@dripdepot8 күн бұрын
If you're gone from home fairly often, I'd lean heavily towards a WiFi timer -- they'll send alerts if there are unexpected watering events (which can prevent a disaster when you return home) and can adjust cycles for local weather data when you're not home. Other than that, they're very similar, and I see a lot of folks with WiFi timers using them as digital timers (programming them at the timer itself, manually setting rain delays, etc). Basically, a digital timer is just as effective as a WiFi timer if you're typically on location, but if you're gone a lot on vacation or business, WiFi all the way for those alerts and automatic adjustments.
@Fred7011510 күн бұрын
What we see aren’t these sorts of things. We get full cuts of the tubing caused by edgers and shovels.
@dripdepot10 күн бұрын
Those will definitely do it! The lawnmower has gotten me a couple times. For more extensive damage like that, all you need to do is cut the damaged portion out and re-join the undamaged sections with a coupler. If the damage is across a wider area, you might have to use a second coupling to splice in some new tubing. All in all not a bad task as long as the damage doesn't happen too often :) Just in case you'd like to see it in action, here's a link to one of our older videos showing this process: kzread.info/dash/bejne/anqppK9uopaZfqQ.html
@tobythewhale10 күн бұрын
I've been attempting a drip irrigation system for raised beds using 7 gallon buckets and yea, it kinda works (bed is about 3 foor high) and the highest point of the bucket is 6 feet) but I wanna increase pressure
@dripdepot10 күн бұрын
Yep, that's definitely some low pressure! Is there any way for you to elevate the buckets a little higher? Water pressure is generated at a rate of 0.433 PSI for every 1' of elevation, so a little more elevated can increase pressure to a reasonable degree. Sounds like you have about 1.3 PSI at the moment (bucket at 6', then 3' climb into the raised bed). Even 3' more would roughly double your working pressure :)
@auptyk11 күн бұрын
If you have an irrigation system in your yard... I built my garden and where there were originally sprinklers, took them out and replaced it with a filter, pressure regulator, and then ran swing pipe and drip lines appropriately. This is nice because I just have it all connected to my irrigation timers so its all fully automated.
@dripdepot10 күн бұрын
Good call! I did something similar when our area went through a few years of drought. I replaced a bunch of my lawn with drought tolerant plants and an herb bed, and watered it by converting one of the sprinklers that had been on that zone (and capped off the rest). There's now full conversion kits and individual conversion parts that (thankfully) make this pretty straight forward these days. I enjoyed it enough I want to do the same to the rest of my front yard -- I not only get the benefit of fresh herbs, but I also don't have to constantly tend the lawn there (and a lower water bill to boot!).
@kirkguindon502911 күн бұрын
You never touched on pressure regulators, when and where needed if required with sprays or drip, it would have finished off a fine instructional video perfectly.
@dripdepot10 күн бұрын
We do actually have another video that goes over this exact thing -- I'll link it at the end, but happy to go over the information here in the comment too. In most cases, you're going to need a pressure regulator. Drip irrigation and the type of spray emitters we used in this video are low pressure solutions and their optimal operating pressure is almost always below standard residential pressure (15 to 25 PSI in most cases). There are a couple places with residential pressure that low, but definitely on the rare side. Just in case, here is the video to the video I mentioned (it basically goes over the above in more detail): kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGiu0a-EhJOykZs.html
@susanmundle357911 күн бұрын
I grow fruit trees in half wine barrels. Would you recommend a drip line ring or individual drippers (and how many)
@dripdepot11 күн бұрын
Either one cold work effectively, but for simplicity's sake, I'd likely use a drip line ring -- a drip line ring ends up being functionally the same as placing multiple drippers around the tree in the barrel, but saves you the time of having to run each dripper in -- you can just make a ring around the tree and done. :)
@susanmundle357911 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot thank you! Any recommendation on how far the ring should be from the outside edge of the barrel?
@dripdepot11 күн бұрын
@@susanmundle3579 This will depend on the size of the barrel, and the size of the root ball of the tree, but a good general recommendation is half-way from the trunk to the edge. Water will spread out beneath the soil's surface through its capillary action, so at the halfway point you'll get pretty thorough coverage in most sized barrels. In the soil is particularly fast draining or loose, you can even make a second ring or form the ring into a spiral (a second ring is rarely needed, but the spiral works pretty well when needed). :)
@ourv960312 күн бұрын
I watched a vid from a commercial greenhouse grower who said : 'You should NEVER be adding water without measuring the moisture content first. I carry my moisture meter in my pocket at all times.' !
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
That's a good tip -- and for sure, if the soil is already moist beneath the surface, adding more water risks water logging the roots, which leads to a host of problems for tomato plants. In our experience, over watering is a more common mistake than under watering as well, a moisture meter can definitely help solve that :)
@epristerv13 күн бұрын
Hi again Adam! Can you please advise, is there a spacing requirement or recommendation when connecting 1/4” tubing and drippers to the 1/2” mainline? Do they need to be “x” inches apart, or a maximum of “x” number of connections per foot/yard/whatever of mainline? If one is running drippers to a line of pots, will you reduce flow or performance by having too many connected to a short run of 1/2” mainline? Thanks once again, you folks are the best.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
There is no specific rule, but at least a couple inches will be the easiest to work with. While enough barbed fittings can cause an obstruction, in most situations it's not going to be a concern. Perhaps if other specs of the system were on the cusp of being in the red (really high flow in a long run of 1/2" tubing with a ton of barbed fittings) it could impact performance, but those are definitely outliers.
@epristerv12 күн бұрын
Awesome, thanks so much. They'll be at least 6-8" apart so it sounds like they should be fine.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
@@epristerv Definitely! 6" to 8" is very common (and successful!). I've personally seen them as close as 3.5" with no detrimental impact on the performance of the system, you'll be good at 6" - 8" :)
@harryl794613 күн бұрын
Builders landscaper installed the drips in the front bed and it is currently running off of the zone along with the front yard. 3 heads plus approximately 11 emitters on 11 plants. My plan is to add a zone for just the emitters and thus get the correct amount of water to the bed. Adding a zone will give me complete control over these emitters and keep my Radian Gardenia plants happy 😊 Wish me luck!
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
Hey, good luck! And awesome giving those their own zone so you can water them as they prefer, trying to mix plants with wildly different watering requirements on the same zone is definitely a mistake we see (and have no doubt made!) :)
@breideochannel459013 күн бұрын
PLEASE help with this if anyone can!? So if you have tubing with (OD) is 0.620 in. (ID) is 0.520. in! I need to connect a threaded/swivel connection of 1”, 1-1/4, 1-1/2. Basically, trying to connect my drip irrigation tubing to my submersible pump! The pumps multi-connection piece Isn’t compatible with sizing, as it is now. So what can I do to connect The submersible pump to the drip irrigation tubing. (Without spending hundreds more)
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
You bet, happy to help, there's a good chance this can be done with just a couple adapters :) Is the 1", 1-1/4" 1-1/2" optional adapters that came with your pump? If so, the 1" option is going to be the easiest to get connected to since 1" adapters are the most common. Reply here and let me know if the pump has male or female threads at the outlet and if it's a 1" connection (or one of the other sizes), happy to see what we have to get your tubing connected -- we do carry some fittings for 0.520" ID tubing, and at least two of them are threaded (one male, one female), so all we'll need to do is adapt where you'd like to connect the tubing over to a correct sized Threads x 0.520" ID Tubing connection.
@miebrindle591613 күн бұрын
This is such a great video. I have one question: What is the reason for making 3 separate rows of the 1/4" drip tubing? We're thinking about doing 4 lines in our 4x8' bed but cutting the drip tubing double length (so 16'), attaching 2 lines into the main tube and then sort of bend the drip tubing like a U so each line of drip tubing will make two dripping rows. I understand there's a limit to how long they can be to work properly, but I think I remember you said max 30' in the video. Are we missing something or is it simply personal preference? TIA.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
Great question -- to some degree it's personal preference, but there are a couple advantages to running individual lines. Less chance of an emitter not at a plant (if any emitters end up in the U section of the run, there may not be a plant there) and potentially less material used since no material fills the U portion. That's assuming one line per row of course, if you're turning the tubing back to run across the same row (to get drip line on both sides of the plants in the row) then those are less likely to be concerns. Performance is also a possibility -- the maximum run length of 12" spaced drip line is about 30', but if you go with tighter spacing (6" and 9" are both fairly common), friction loss can start to get pretty high in runs over 20' -- at 20' in 6" spaced drip line, about 6.2 PSI is going to be lost from friction, which is enough to start noticing uniformity differences. At 16' in your beds you're likely to be good to go even with 6" spaced drip line though -- at 16' the loss is only about 3.3 PSI. Yes, that does impact uniformity, but probably not enough to even notice there :)
@josephmorneau185613 күн бұрын
Hello! Thanks for the well done videos. I’m starting a drip irrigation project for my back yard. The trench is completed. The 6 zone system has already been installed by a “professional”. One zone is feeding the smaller front yard. The remaining 5 zones will feed the back yard. I will use 3 of those zones now but run the line for the remaining two for the remaining part of the yard to be done at a later date. Taking your advice, I’ve determined the water pressure to be 40 psi. The water flow rate is 207.43 GPH. I will need 900 - 1000 feet of post-shut off valve below ground mainline for the project. The turn angles for the lines will be close to but not exactly 90 degrees and 45 degrees. I will be supplying 4 trees and two raised plant/flower beds. I’m in El Paso, TX. It gets below freezing a few times a year. The soil is sand and rock. I’m leaning towards polyethylene tubing for mainline but I’d thought I’d see if you agree or have a better recommendation.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
Great question on the mainline -- to some degree cost of different lines is regional, and of course there's the time investment to weigh as well when deciding on a mainline. Poly tubing is going to be much easier to run and there's a good chance you won't need fittings for the 45° turns. It's not uncommon to use poly tubing in this way, particularly anywhere that gets freezing temperatures during winter (but it's not limited to those locations). I'm a bit biased since I work with a lot of poly tubing, but for DIY I think poly tubing makes a great choice for anything downstream of the zone valves. Because the tubing is so much more flexible, you get a lot more room for error in everything from trenching to fittings, and if you make any mistakes, the repairs are very easy. If this (or any portions of it) will be above surface, poly tubing definitely has the full advantage.
@SannyAnnie13 күн бұрын
Love Drip Depot! For context, I'm 60+ and can manage using a drill, hammer, and screwdriver, but I'm not going to do major repairs myself ("back in the day" I'd replace toilets, light switches, light fixtures and the like - not now). Last year I hand watered my raised beds. It was time consuming and I confess that I did not enjoy standing outside in the heat to ensure that each plant had a thorough drink from either the hose or watering can (if it was time for fertilizer). The garden suffered as a result. This year, thanks to Drip Depot, I installed drip irrigation to 8 large ovals (3'x5') and four rounds (24" and 42"), plus 9 20" pots and two 5-gallon potted fig trees. PLUS 4 in-ground apple trees, a persimmon, and 2 berry bushes. Whew! When I list them all, it seems daunting! But over the course of a couple of days in spring I was able to do it all. The instructions on the irrigation videos are so clear! I ran 1/2 inch line around the perimeter of the yard, and then branched individual 1/2 inch lines to each bed using T connectors. Using right-angled connectors I ran the line up the 17" sides of the beds, added shut-off valves, and then ran several 1/4 inch drip lines down the length of each bed. The potted and in-ground fruit trees and the potted tomatoes each have a 1/4 inch line from the main, ending in a button dripper of appropriate size. Later in the season I added a fertilizer injector system (also Drip Depot, of course). Game changer! All the fish emulsion and rapid-release fertilizer (the blue stuff) runs through the lines to the plants. Magic! The only down side is that I can't seem to stop a drip at the faucet (or maybe it's at the Y splitter). Not an issue with the Drip Depot system at all, but it does mean that I cannot entirely automate - if I leave the water on at the faucet, there's a drip drip drip that fills a 5 gallon bucket in a day (I keep one under the faucet to catch the drips). Simple enough work around - I just turn on the water and run the system manually. Next year maybe I'll figure out where the leak is coming from. In any event, I can't believe how much time this saved me this year! My garden is thriving. MORE than thriving!! I highly recommend this company and its products. They make it so simple!
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
Thank you for that wonderfully written description of your system! It sounds like a pretty good sized one at that, definitely larger than what we did in this video, great work. I know the first one can be daunting, I try to tell people all the time to just try, and in almost all cases they're able to complete the system. I'm glad you gave it a shot :) And I hear you on standing around to water plants, I did a few years of that myself back when I first got into gardening (which was before I got into irrigation). We romanticize our gardens a degree, but I can comfortably say hand watering for hours at a time can take away a lot of what is pleasurable about having one. When you're ready to take a look at that leak, let me know, I'll be absolutely happy to help. Between us all down here there's a lot of experience, don't hesitate to reach out and make use of it at any time. :) A couple quick things to check if you haven't already: If there is any thread seal tape, go ahead and remove it. With hose threaded connections it can actually cause some of the problems it's meant to prevent. Also, check in the female side of the connections to make sure they all have the gasket in there (and if it is, make sure it's not distorted, out of place, or old and cracking). I'd say a missing or damaged gasket accounts for a pretty high percentage of leaks we see at hose bibs and drip head assemblies. :) Thank you again (and truly) for your wonderful comment!
@sksingh897614 күн бұрын
Hi I am 12 now 🎉😂❤
@MemeYou8814 күн бұрын
Bro, all you have to do is add a RV filter and you are dialed.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
An RV filter could definitely work! It might be a little overkill for an irrigation system and cost more than a hose filter, but if you have one around already it can get the job done. I do like the activated carbon ones for removing chlorine, which is indeed something a hose filter does not do :)
@roncraig61714 күн бұрын
Any advice on attaching to an aluminum awning - are zip ties the best solution? Thanks.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
Great question -- I think everyone has their preference to some degree, but I do like zip-ties for this, largely due to their simplicity and they don't do any damage to the awning like options with screws or bolts can. Another good option is outdoor magnetic cable holders (these would be a top option if it was easier to find them in smaller sizes). Outdoor Adhesive mounts with zip ties are my go to option when using smaller tubing sizes, the zip tie make ensures a fit, and the adhesive mount allows me a place to secure it on pretty much any material :)
@lananclark617314 күн бұрын
Great video! I'm a 75 year old lady fixing my first irrigation hose and you have made my life so much simpler....I'm very grateful to you for sharing info online.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
You're very welcome! If any questions come up during the repair, don't hesitate to drop a line, happy to help :)
@riegoecuador14 күн бұрын
Thanks for the explanation. Very good!
@carocuno0614 күн бұрын
I know that overwatering tomatoes can cause splits in the fruit what if you directly hydrated the fruit and made sure the skin was always moist
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
Applying water directly to the fruit is generally not recommended due to the increased risk of fungal diseases and sunscalding (basically, sunburn for plants). If you're getting splits in your tomatoes on the vine, it may not be due to overwatering (or at least, not directly). The splits are often caused by sudden changes in water availability rather than just too much water. For example, getting rainfall after a short dry spell is likely to cause cracks or splits even if the rainfall didn't technically overwater the tomatoes. Basically, as much consistency as possible when growing tomatoes will help reduce/prevent that kind of splitting and cracking :)
@dirtyd139814 күн бұрын
Great video, new to drip irrigation and this answred so many questions. Around the back of my house, I have 41 feet of garden space to water, working with mostly different varieties of peppers (Bell, Habinero, Jalapeno, Serano, Ghost, Carolina, Hungariun Hot Banana, and Sweet banana
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
Awesome choice in peppers! As a fellow pepper fan, I grow mine with drippers (1/4" drip line to be specific) rather than spray :)
@dirtyd139812 күн бұрын
@@dripdepot i am following your examples, and have way too many peppers to eat, so i have been giving them away to neighbors.... but i feel, or they are looking like i am over watering them, for an adult plant, what GPH do you recommend? I have been ising 2 gal, on 1/4 line, and 2 drippers per plant.
@dripdepot12 күн бұрын
@@dirtyd1398 Well it definitely sounds like you're doing something right since you have enough to give away! A poor yield is actually one of the signs of overwatering, so it's a good sign you're getting a good yield :) Many symptoms of overwatering are similar to underwatering which can make it a bit of a challenge to identify what is going on, but look for yellowing leaves and wilting leaves. Both of those are symptoms of overwatering. Specific to overwatering can be a blossom end rot, basically this is dark, sunken spots on the end of the fruit. Pale and uneven coloring can also be a sign of overwatering. If you do have a few of those symptoms, you could try lowering the watering cycle a bit -- 2.0 GPH drippers would be on the higher end of flow rates for button drippers, so, depending on your current cycle, a shorter cycle might help. In addition to that is soil drainage -- if you have thick or clay-like soil that experiences slower drainage, a shorter watering cycle is likely to help as well -- likewise if you have a thick layer of mulch over the top of the soil, the soil moisture retention rate is going to be high (which is a good thing, but could also call for shorter watering cycles). Look to see if you have some of those overwatering symptoms, and if so, shorten the watering cycle. A soil moisture meter can also help determine if the soil moisture is at a good level -- even one of the inexpensive analog types (like this one: www.dripdepot.com/soil-moisture-meter) can accurately measure soil moisture content.
Пікірлер
Would a cleanable emitter work in place of non cleanable woodpecker emitter for a vineyard on well water? Yes, I have a filter.
Hi, thanks for your reply. I am living in the Philippines where everything is done the way it was 50 years ago in the rest of the world and these brass compression fittings is what a lot still use when they are upgrading from the old GI pipes to what they call high pressure pipe but nobody uses a proper tool to do the job. They use a cigarette lighter to heat the pipe and then use the corner of the lighter to flare it and then after a few attempts at it you get it to seal. I have searched everywhere for a flaring tool for PVC but I only can find for brake lines so I don't know if this will work or not.
This is a helpful video! I’d love to see a more in-depth breakdown on some of the possible leak causes, particularly the water pressure
I'm glad this was helpful! And you bet, happy to add a more in depth look to the list -- you said the magic words with water pressure, I love testing things with increasingly high water pressure until they -blowup- start leaking :)
What a great clear video for a first time drip installer!! Thank you!
You're very welcome, thank you for the comment as well! :)
Hi, do you know anything about 1/2" high pressure PVC tube (PE) that uses brass flare nut fittings and if so what tool is used to flare the tube.Thanks.
The tool used is actually often just called a "Flaring Tool." Searing google for "Flaring Tool" brings up a lot of results, you might want to try more directed searches like "PVC/PE Flaring Tool" or "Plastic Pipe Flaring Kit" and variations of those to see if you can locate one that will work with your pipe. With all that said, unless you specifically need to use brass flare nut fittings, you could consider going with a different fitting type so you don't have to flare the end of the pipe -- primer/glue slip fittings make a nice permanent connection. This can vary depending on application of course, but I wanted to mention it just in case :)
Thank thank you so much for this video.
You're very welcome, thank you so much for the nice comment as well! Great way to head into Friday, I appreciate it :)
¼" 🍆 😂
Another excellent instructional video with detailed step-by-step explanations. Thanks for including the links to the products in the video description.
You're very welcome, thank you for the great comment as well!
Please make a video about drip irrigation on a slope/hillside
This is a great suggestion, thank you! Added to the list, this is one we will for sure create at some point. In the meantime, I can help you get started -- growing on a slope or hillside, in regards to irrigation, is all about pressure compensating emitters. Pressure compensating emitters stay uniform, with those at the bottom (and thus under more pressure) staying uniform with those at the top where pressure is lower. CNL emitters are also often used on slopes -- CNL means "Check, Non-Leak." What CNL does is prevents low point emitters from draining after the system shuts down. There's some other details we'll cover in the video (thank you again for the idea!), but pressure compensating and CNL emitters are the most important components to growing on a slope :)
My auto drain valve is at a low point, but just shoots out water in a stream the whole time, causing the system to depressurize. Any advice? Thanks
It's possible the auto drain valve got stuck in its open position -- give it a thump or two and see if that gets it working again, if there's some debris (or if it simply got stuck and needed some encouragement) this might loosen it and get it working again. If that doesn't do the trick, it's possible that particular one was bad to begin with (if you got it from us, let me know if it doesn't get up and running so I can get a replacement out to you). One other possibility is a bit more remote, but during pressurization it may not be receiving enough pressure to close the valve -- I say this is less likely a possibility as they close at reasonably low pressure (as they have to since they close during pressurization), but it may be worth doing a quick check of pressure there with your hand by removing the valve and just getting a feel for how much pressure is coming out. It doesn't need to be exact, if the pressure feels reasonable to you, it should be enough. If it feels like a weak trickle, it could be the cause.
@dripdepot Hey great video. I'm planning out my irrigation system for about ~150 vanilla vines/ fruit trees/ raised bedsI've got planted across my property and using this video as a guide. One concern I've had that was an issue for me in the past when I used soaker hoses, was that it seems like I didn't get even distribution of pressure along the hose. I'm going to be designing the system over the next couple weeks, and I've got several different zones planned (one for vines, one for beds, one for trees, one for a small patch of lawn). How should I be thinking about line pressure? The zone I really care about is for my vines, and while I haven't decided on either sprinklers or mist, its important to me that all emitters are flowing at pretty much exactly the same rate, and its going to be a particularly long run because most of my plants are planted along my fence-line. What steps can I take in the design phase to ensure I'll get good, consistent flow rates from my emitters for a given zone? Do I risk emitters at the end of a run emitting less than emitters at the origination of a run?
Very good question, and uniformity is one of the most important parts of irrigation, so you're on the right track in asking about it. The primary concern regarding pressure in your upcoming project is going to be in friction loss -- that is, pressure lost from friction between water and the wall of the tubing. Friction losses primary variables are: The material of the line (poly, PVC, etc), the diameter of the line, the overall length of the line and the flow going through it in GPH or GPM (which is the sum of the flow rate of all emitters operating at once). Basically, you want to minimize friction loss to a reasonable amount to ensure all emitters have enough pressure. I'm going to link a video at the end of this comment that goes into a bit more detail -- I try not to answer questions with videos, but the information is a bit much for a comment reply, the video will be able to provide better detail. Another factor to uniformity that's similar to pressure (and this is one where I most often see mistakes made) is the flow rate of the water source versus the flow rate of the system. You want the flow rate provided by the water source to exceed the flow demanded by the system. When the system flow exceeds the flow of the water source, some emitters are starved of water and uniformity goes out the window -- the symptoms of insufficient flow are very similar to those of insufficient pressure, so a lot of times someone will think they don't have enough pressure when in reality they don't have enough flow. As a quick example: Let's say you were using 10 sprinklers for your vines and each sprinkler put out 25 GPH. That would be a system flow (or system demand) of 250 GPH. If the water source only flowed at 200 GPH, some of those sprinklers would be starved of water. In the example above, that 250 GPH in system flow is also the same number you'd use to calculate friction loss, so you can account for both pressure and flow with that same system flow number. The solution for both problems (low PSI, too low of flow) is pretty easy in simply zoning the system into two or more zones, it's just best to account for it first so you can plan for it in the design phase -- much easier to start with knowing how many zones you need than try and add more later. Ok, I'm going to link two videos here -- this first one is about sizing a mainline. It covers friction loss in pretty good detail: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mGxlpKqKnrvPYLw.html This second video is how to test the flow rate of your water source. Are you going to be using a hose bib? If so, that's exactly what we're testing in this video (though you can use the same method for other water source types): kzread.info/dash/bejne/pnusrMOqgcjNaZc.html I know this is a lot of information, so please, don't hesitate to send over any follow-up questions that come up. I'm absolutely happy to answer any questions (and I think asking them is the right way to go, measure twice, cut once and all that). :)
This is a classic disaster of technology and trust misplaced. Is this an intentional miss use of technology? All manufacturers should look to the LONG term implications of their industry.
In this case it's actually more about physics -- manufacturers produce these different sizes of 1/2" tubing for different applications, one of the largest of which is commercial farming. In commercial farming, vast amounts of material are used and if the physics (particularly friction loss and water velocity) call for 0.520" inside diameter tubing, they understandably don't want to spend more on 0.600" inside diameter tubing. On a large commercial project, this can translate into tens of thousands more dollars, not to mention the wasted material since the larger diameter may not be taken advantage of. I think the solution to this is going to end up being listing sizes in metric (and we're already seeing this to some degree, even in the US). Doing so pretty much eliminates this confusion, as you can grab 13mm fittings for 13mm tubing, for example. This will allow for less wasted material and at the same time eliminate the confusion in tubing and fitting size compatibility. While it's unlikely everything is going to go metric any time soon, hopefully the trend with tubing continues to catch on :)
Really like your video and explanation thank U .. but how how far from the tree stam do I make the circle around the tree .. my fruit trees are3 - 4 " thick stams .. lemon, lime, j& ackfruit tree
This can vary on the type of tree, but usually on trees of that size we'll go about 6" to 12" from the trunk of the tree, or about halfway through the diameter of the canopy (since many tree's drinking roots are about the same size as the tree's canopy). In common loamy soil, water will spread about 12" from the point of drip, so this distance can get you very thorough coverage of the root zone :)
Done
Impressive video Adam! The self watering rock was my personal favorite ❤.
Thank you Dave! I'm particularly fond of the watering rock as well, such a unique concept and it works outdoors or indoors. When making this video we realized vacation watering options are actually fairly limited, so hopefully we get to re-make this video some day with a ton more options :)
I have bought two of the tree kits for hedges and bushes. THEY ARE AMAZING! Especially paired with a WiFi water timer. Great products.
I go for months so this method won't work. I pay someone to water. Indoor plants.
my son-in-law bought the kit for father's day.
Perfect! I'm going to send out a replacement to that address -- I'll send the one that does better with high pressure :) If you get a chance, edit the comment to remove the address -- you never know on the internet lol, that's why I never put our email address in the comments, I did one time and the amount of spam we got was crazy. I'll get that order set, we'll have it en route either today or tomorrow morning, Brian will get an email with the tracking -- have a great evening out there!
thanks for getting back to me. We ended up calling a plumber and installing a pressure reducing valve on the main. We were at over 100 PSI. The valve reduced it to 70. Even after the valve we still had the loud vibration sound. The only thing that helped is taking off the backflow preventer. In your mind, am I taking a chance of dirty water entering the household supply? Also, do you have a procedure for the end of the season!
You definitely want the backflow preventer on there -- even though the odds of contamination are low, they're not 0, so best to have one. Were you using the brass one? If so, that could be the guilty part -- at higher pressure we've experienced some noise caused by that one as well. If you were using the brass one, reply here with your order number if you have it. If you don't have the order number any more, contact us on our site (linked below) and let me know the email you used or the shipping address and I can search up the order and get a different one sent to you so you can have the protection without the sound :) Here is the contact us link just in case: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- you can just put "Attn Adam" or something similar in the title and I'll take it from there :)
What are the 6 different attachments in the the video when you say, " for odds"? I have them, but not sure how to use them. Thank you for your videos 😊
The ones on the screen at the time are the end caps you put at the end of your tubing to close it off so it can be pressurized -- the end caps look almost identical to the Hose Swivel x Tubing Adapter (when upright they look the same). The Hose Swivel x Tubing Adapter is the part that connects the mainline tubing to the water source -- the hose swivel end has standard hose threads so it can be attached to a standard outdoor spigot, garden hose or head assembly parts (head assembly parts being those that go on the hose bib). The other end is where the tubing is connected :) Happy to identify any parts if any questions come up!
Thank you for this video. I was wondering if I should burry the micro tubing with drippers under the mulch or leave it out. You are saying the emitters on the tubing will get clogged, so probably I shouldn’t burry them. But I watched some other videos and people say animals like squirrels and chipmunks will chew on the tubing to get water, especially during hot spells. So burry or not to burry?
You have it right that burying slightly increases the risk of clogging -- less so when it's buried under mulch than when buried under soil (but we still see both done). In regards to critters chewing on the tubing, that's definitely correct whether buried or not, they have no problems digging through a little mulch or soil to get to the water. With small animals, we usually find the most effective method is to simply provide an easier source of water (water fountain, water feature, etc). They'll go for the easiest source :). With burying it basically comes down to personal preference for the most part (though I usually avoid direct soil burial in my own garden). Burying under mulch increases efficiency on what are already efficient irrigation systems, but at an increased risk of the occasional clogged emitter (which to be fair, are fairly easy to fix, and in my experience pretty rare).
Watching your videos to customize my kit before I order. I notice you didn't seem concerned about going through the middle of the garden area. Is it ok to run the mainline through a high-traffic area? It makes the most sense to do mine that way, too, but I want to be sure it's ok.
This is a great comment, and if I could go back I think I would address it in the video, as you bring up a really good point. You are correct, in the video we weren't concerned with just running the tubing through the middle of the garden -- the house we installed that one at has no small children who might be unaware (or quickly lose focus on) of a trip hazard like tubing. It was fenced off as well, so less concern about guests or visitors who are unaware of the tubing walking through the garden. And with all that said, the tubing is pretty small and during daylight hours very visible. If there's not a lot of foot traffic in an area, it's very common to leave it above-grade. If there were young children (or a lot of foot traffic) I'd likely bury the mainline in high traffic areas. Great comment, thank you!
@@dripdepotAhh, the mainline can be buried! That will work nicely, thank you.
@@Daedal71 You're very welcome! If you bury it, do it like PVC (though you don't have to go as deep) -- build a trench of soft crumbly soil for it to lay in, pull out any rocks or sharp sticks, and you're goood to go :). In my home garden I probably have 3/4 of my tubing buried and the rest above grade -- I've made more repairs in the above-grade parts (dang raccoons) than I have the buried parts.
@@dripdepot thank you for the tips!
Very informative. i am trying to repair the drip system a landscaper installed in my front and backyard.
I just trying to fix the drip system a landscaper installed in my front and backyard. thank you so much for the very informative instructions videos.
You're very welcome Leticia! And I'm glad to hear you're repairing it yourself, definitely big savings over calling out the landscaper to repair it, and you'll find it's pretty easy to repair (and once you've done it once, it'll be even easier if you ever need to again). If any questions come up, don't hesitate to reach out, more than happy to help you get that system up and running!
My water does not drip out of the 1/4” line it sprays like a fire hose. I have a 25?psi
Happy to help! And you bet, even at 25 PSI a lot of water can come out of the end of a run of 1/4" tubing -- in most cases what you'll want to do is end that 1/4" tubing run in an emitter of some type, like a button dripper. The dripper further controls the volume of water that comes out. Most 0.5 GPH drippers will put out their 0.5 GPH at 25 PSI (and close to 0.5 GPH at anywhere from 10 to 30 PSI). If this is for a run of drip line (the 1/4" tubing that has holes at evenly spaced intervals) all you have to do is close off the end of it with a goof plug so that all the water is available for the holes (which have emitters beneath them) in the drip line. Just in case, I'm going to link both a button dripper and a goof plug below so you can check them out if you're unsure: Button Dripper: www.dripdepot.com/3213 Goof Plug: www.dripdepot.com/1176 If I misunderstood anything, just say the word :)
Good
The ultimate kit has a T filter but no canister. Is this something that is purchased separately?
You could purchase it separately if you prefer the canister filter, but you might not need to -- the tee filter and canister filter, as far as the actual filtration goes, are nearly identical at 150 and 155 mesh. Basically, both have very fine filtration with those mesh sizes being smaller than the average size human hair :)
you can probably use zip ties on the barbs
That's a great point -- with the smaller barbed fittings, in a low pressure system, there's a good chance zip ties would work -- you'd want them UV treated (if it's an above-grade run of tubing) so they don't get brittle, but I don't see any reason they wouldn't work :)
What if it still leaks after inserting the goof plug even when the hole doesn't look that big. Can you put some sealant around it ?
Sealant might work, but there could be some downsides if any of it flakes off and gets into the tubing (or is toxic to plants, but that might not be an issue if it thoroughly dries first, but flaking with age could be). I'd first try the large end of the goof plug and see if that does the trick -- it won't be easy to get in, but once it's in the larger seating surface could do the trick. If that fails, there's always the repair coupling as well -- just cut the damaged portion out and then re-join the two sections with a coupling (couplings are pretty inexpensive, so it ends up being a pretty cheap fix, but I'd still try the large end of the goof plug first) :)
Well tried it out for a year and found out the plunger was stuck closed thankfully. Took the cap off and the plunger spring inners fell out in pieces. Was non fixable. So switching back to the same brand end cap with just the screw cap. Ordering more parts from you after this 👍🏻
Weird the plunger got stuck! Was there some mineral build up in there? If so, a soak in a vinegar type solution might unstick the plunger if it happens again :)
Thoughts on wifi vs normal digital timer?
If you're gone from home fairly often, I'd lean heavily towards a WiFi timer -- they'll send alerts if there are unexpected watering events (which can prevent a disaster when you return home) and can adjust cycles for local weather data when you're not home. Other than that, they're very similar, and I see a lot of folks with WiFi timers using them as digital timers (programming them at the timer itself, manually setting rain delays, etc). Basically, a digital timer is just as effective as a WiFi timer if you're typically on location, but if you're gone a lot on vacation or business, WiFi all the way for those alerts and automatic adjustments.
What we see aren’t these sorts of things. We get full cuts of the tubing caused by edgers and shovels.
Those will definitely do it! The lawnmower has gotten me a couple times. For more extensive damage like that, all you need to do is cut the damaged portion out and re-join the undamaged sections with a coupler. If the damage is across a wider area, you might have to use a second coupling to splice in some new tubing. All in all not a bad task as long as the damage doesn't happen too often :) Just in case you'd like to see it in action, here's a link to one of our older videos showing this process: kzread.info/dash/bejne/anqppK9uopaZfqQ.html
I've been attempting a drip irrigation system for raised beds using 7 gallon buckets and yea, it kinda works (bed is about 3 foor high) and the highest point of the bucket is 6 feet) but I wanna increase pressure
Yep, that's definitely some low pressure! Is there any way for you to elevate the buckets a little higher? Water pressure is generated at a rate of 0.433 PSI for every 1' of elevation, so a little more elevated can increase pressure to a reasonable degree. Sounds like you have about 1.3 PSI at the moment (bucket at 6', then 3' climb into the raised bed). Even 3' more would roughly double your working pressure :)
If you have an irrigation system in your yard... I built my garden and where there were originally sprinklers, took them out and replaced it with a filter, pressure regulator, and then ran swing pipe and drip lines appropriately. This is nice because I just have it all connected to my irrigation timers so its all fully automated.
Good call! I did something similar when our area went through a few years of drought. I replaced a bunch of my lawn with drought tolerant plants and an herb bed, and watered it by converting one of the sprinklers that had been on that zone (and capped off the rest). There's now full conversion kits and individual conversion parts that (thankfully) make this pretty straight forward these days. I enjoyed it enough I want to do the same to the rest of my front yard -- I not only get the benefit of fresh herbs, but I also don't have to constantly tend the lawn there (and a lower water bill to boot!).
You never touched on pressure regulators, when and where needed if required with sprays or drip, it would have finished off a fine instructional video perfectly.
We do actually have another video that goes over this exact thing -- I'll link it at the end, but happy to go over the information here in the comment too. In most cases, you're going to need a pressure regulator. Drip irrigation and the type of spray emitters we used in this video are low pressure solutions and their optimal operating pressure is almost always below standard residential pressure (15 to 25 PSI in most cases). There are a couple places with residential pressure that low, but definitely on the rare side. Just in case, here is the video to the video I mentioned (it basically goes over the above in more detail): kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGiu0a-EhJOykZs.html
I grow fruit trees in half wine barrels. Would you recommend a drip line ring or individual drippers (and how many)
Either one cold work effectively, but for simplicity's sake, I'd likely use a drip line ring -- a drip line ring ends up being functionally the same as placing multiple drippers around the tree in the barrel, but saves you the time of having to run each dripper in -- you can just make a ring around the tree and done. :)
@@dripdepot thank you! Any recommendation on how far the ring should be from the outside edge of the barrel?
@@susanmundle3579 This will depend on the size of the barrel, and the size of the root ball of the tree, but a good general recommendation is half-way from the trunk to the edge. Water will spread out beneath the soil's surface through its capillary action, so at the halfway point you'll get pretty thorough coverage in most sized barrels. In the soil is particularly fast draining or loose, you can even make a second ring or form the ring into a spiral (a second ring is rarely needed, but the spiral works pretty well when needed). :)
I watched a vid from a commercial greenhouse grower who said : 'You should NEVER be adding water without measuring the moisture content first. I carry my moisture meter in my pocket at all times.' !
That's a good tip -- and for sure, if the soil is already moist beneath the surface, adding more water risks water logging the roots, which leads to a host of problems for tomato plants. In our experience, over watering is a more common mistake than under watering as well, a moisture meter can definitely help solve that :)
Hi again Adam! Can you please advise, is there a spacing requirement or recommendation when connecting 1/4” tubing and drippers to the 1/2” mainline? Do they need to be “x” inches apart, or a maximum of “x” number of connections per foot/yard/whatever of mainline? If one is running drippers to a line of pots, will you reduce flow or performance by having too many connected to a short run of 1/2” mainline? Thanks once again, you folks are the best.
There is no specific rule, but at least a couple inches will be the easiest to work with. While enough barbed fittings can cause an obstruction, in most situations it's not going to be a concern. Perhaps if other specs of the system were on the cusp of being in the red (really high flow in a long run of 1/2" tubing with a ton of barbed fittings) it could impact performance, but those are definitely outliers.
Awesome, thanks so much. They'll be at least 6-8" apart so it sounds like they should be fine.
@@epristerv Definitely! 6" to 8" is very common (and successful!). I've personally seen them as close as 3.5" with no detrimental impact on the performance of the system, you'll be good at 6" - 8" :)
Builders landscaper installed the drips in the front bed and it is currently running off of the zone along with the front yard. 3 heads plus approximately 11 emitters on 11 plants. My plan is to add a zone for just the emitters and thus get the correct amount of water to the bed. Adding a zone will give me complete control over these emitters and keep my Radian Gardenia plants happy 😊 Wish me luck!
Hey, good luck! And awesome giving those their own zone so you can water them as they prefer, trying to mix plants with wildly different watering requirements on the same zone is definitely a mistake we see (and have no doubt made!) :)
PLEASE help with this if anyone can!? So if you have tubing with (OD) is 0.620 in. (ID) is 0.520. in! I need to connect a threaded/swivel connection of 1”, 1-1/4, 1-1/2. Basically, trying to connect my drip irrigation tubing to my submersible pump! The pumps multi-connection piece Isn’t compatible with sizing, as it is now. So what can I do to connect The submersible pump to the drip irrigation tubing. (Without spending hundreds more)
You bet, happy to help, there's a good chance this can be done with just a couple adapters :) Is the 1", 1-1/4" 1-1/2" optional adapters that came with your pump? If so, the 1" option is going to be the easiest to get connected to since 1" adapters are the most common. Reply here and let me know if the pump has male or female threads at the outlet and if it's a 1" connection (or one of the other sizes), happy to see what we have to get your tubing connected -- we do carry some fittings for 0.520" ID tubing, and at least two of them are threaded (one male, one female), so all we'll need to do is adapt where you'd like to connect the tubing over to a correct sized Threads x 0.520" ID Tubing connection.
This is such a great video. I have one question: What is the reason for making 3 separate rows of the 1/4" drip tubing? We're thinking about doing 4 lines in our 4x8' bed but cutting the drip tubing double length (so 16'), attaching 2 lines into the main tube and then sort of bend the drip tubing like a U so each line of drip tubing will make two dripping rows. I understand there's a limit to how long they can be to work properly, but I think I remember you said max 30' in the video. Are we missing something or is it simply personal preference? TIA.
Great question -- to some degree it's personal preference, but there are a couple advantages to running individual lines. Less chance of an emitter not at a plant (if any emitters end up in the U section of the run, there may not be a plant there) and potentially less material used since no material fills the U portion. That's assuming one line per row of course, if you're turning the tubing back to run across the same row (to get drip line on both sides of the plants in the row) then those are less likely to be concerns. Performance is also a possibility -- the maximum run length of 12" spaced drip line is about 30', but if you go with tighter spacing (6" and 9" are both fairly common), friction loss can start to get pretty high in runs over 20' -- at 20' in 6" spaced drip line, about 6.2 PSI is going to be lost from friction, which is enough to start noticing uniformity differences. At 16' in your beds you're likely to be good to go even with 6" spaced drip line though -- at 16' the loss is only about 3.3 PSI. Yes, that does impact uniformity, but probably not enough to even notice there :)
Hello! Thanks for the well done videos. I’m starting a drip irrigation project for my back yard. The trench is completed. The 6 zone system has already been installed by a “professional”. One zone is feeding the smaller front yard. The remaining 5 zones will feed the back yard. I will use 3 of those zones now but run the line for the remaining two for the remaining part of the yard to be done at a later date. Taking your advice, I’ve determined the water pressure to be 40 psi. The water flow rate is 207.43 GPH. I will need 900 - 1000 feet of post-shut off valve below ground mainline for the project. The turn angles for the lines will be close to but not exactly 90 degrees and 45 degrees. I will be supplying 4 trees and two raised plant/flower beds. I’m in El Paso, TX. It gets below freezing a few times a year. The soil is sand and rock. I’m leaning towards polyethylene tubing for mainline but I’d thought I’d see if you agree or have a better recommendation.
Great question on the mainline -- to some degree cost of different lines is regional, and of course there's the time investment to weigh as well when deciding on a mainline. Poly tubing is going to be much easier to run and there's a good chance you won't need fittings for the 45° turns. It's not uncommon to use poly tubing in this way, particularly anywhere that gets freezing temperatures during winter (but it's not limited to those locations). I'm a bit biased since I work with a lot of poly tubing, but for DIY I think poly tubing makes a great choice for anything downstream of the zone valves. Because the tubing is so much more flexible, you get a lot more room for error in everything from trenching to fittings, and if you make any mistakes, the repairs are very easy. If this (or any portions of it) will be above surface, poly tubing definitely has the full advantage.
Love Drip Depot! For context, I'm 60+ and can manage using a drill, hammer, and screwdriver, but I'm not going to do major repairs myself ("back in the day" I'd replace toilets, light switches, light fixtures and the like - not now). Last year I hand watered my raised beds. It was time consuming and I confess that I did not enjoy standing outside in the heat to ensure that each plant had a thorough drink from either the hose or watering can (if it was time for fertilizer). The garden suffered as a result. This year, thanks to Drip Depot, I installed drip irrigation to 8 large ovals (3'x5') and four rounds (24" and 42"), plus 9 20" pots and two 5-gallon potted fig trees. PLUS 4 in-ground apple trees, a persimmon, and 2 berry bushes. Whew! When I list them all, it seems daunting! But over the course of a couple of days in spring I was able to do it all. The instructions on the irrigation videos are so clear! I ran 1/2 inch line around the perimeter of the yard, and then branched individual 1/2 inch lines to each bed using T connectors. Using right-angled connectors I ran the line up the 17" sides of the beds, added shut-off valves, and then ran several 1/4 inch drip lines down the length of each bed. The potted and in-ground fruit trees and the potted tomatoes each have a 1/4 inch line from the main, ending in a button dripper of appropriate size. Later in the season I added a fertilizer injector system (also Drip Depot, of course). Game changer! All the fish emulsion and rapid-release fertilizer (the blue stuff) runs through the lines to the plants. Magic! The only down side is that I can't seem to stop a drip at the faucet (or maybe it's at the Y splitter). Not an issue with the Drip Depot system at all, but it does mean that I cannot entirely automate - if I leave the water on at the faucet, there's a drip drip drip that fills a 5 gallon bucket in a day (I keep one under the faucet to catch the drips). Simple enough work around - I just turn on the water and run the system manually. Next year maybe I'll figure out where the leak is coming from. In any event, I can't believe how much time this saved me this year! My garden is thriving. MORE than thriving!! I highly recommend this company and its products. They make it so simple!
Thank you for that wonderfully written description of your system! It sounds like a pretty good sized one at that, definitely larger than what we did in this video, great work. I know the first one can be daunting, I try to tell people all the time to just try, and in almost all cases they're able to complete the system. I'm glad you gave it a shot :) And I hear you on standing around to water plants, I did a few years of that myself back when I first got into gardening (which was before I got into irrigation). We romanticize our gardens a degree, but I can comfortably say hand watering for hours at a time can take away a lot of what is pleasurable about having one. When you're ready to take a look at that leak, let me know, I'll be absolutely happy to help. Between us all down here there's a lot of experience, don't hesitate to reach out and make use of it at any time. :) A couple quick things to check if you haven't already: If there is any thread seal tape, go ahead and remove it. With hose threaded connections it can actually cause some of the problems it's meant to prevent. Also, check in the female side of the connections to make sure they all have the gasket in there (and if it is, make sure it's not distorted, out of place, or old and cracking). I'd say a missing or damaged gasket accounts for a pretty high percentage of leaks we see at hose bibs and drip head assemblies. :) Thank you again (and truly) for your wonderful comment!
Hi I am 12 now 🎉😂❤
Bro, all you have to do is add a RV filter and you are dialed.
An RV filter could definitely work! It might be a little overkill for an irrigation system and cost more than a hose filter, but if you have one around already it can get the job done. I do like the activated carbon ones for removing chlorine, which is indeed something a hose filter does not do :)
Any advice on attaching to an aluminum awning - are zip ties the best solution? Thanks.
Great question -- I think everyone has their preference to some degree, but I do like zip-ties for this, largely due to their simplicity and they don't do any damage to the awning like options with screws or bolts can. Another good option is outdoor magnetic cable holders (these would be a top option if it was easier to find them in smaller sizes). Outdoor Adhesive mounts with zip ties are my go to option when using smaller tubing sizes, the zip tie make ensures a fit, and the adhesive mount allows me a place to secure it on pretty much any material :)
Great video! I'm a 75 year old lady fixing my first irrigation hose and you have made my life so much simpler....I'm very grateful to you for sharing info online.
You're very welcome! If any questions come up during the repair, don't hesitate to drop a line, happy to help :)
Thanks for the explanation. Very good!
I know that overwatering tomatoes can cause splits in the fruit what if you directly hydrated the fruit and made sure the skin was always moist
Applying water directly to the fruit is generally not recommended due to the increased risk of fungal diseases and sunscalding (basically, sunburn for plants). If you're getting splits in your tomatoes on the vine, it may not be due to overwatering (or at least, not directly). The splits are often caused by sudden changes in water availability rather than just too much water. For example, getting rainfall after a short dry spell is likely to cause cracks or splits even if the rainfall didn't technically overwater the tomatoes. Basically, as much consistency as possible when growing tomatoes will help reduce/prevent that kind of splitting and cracking :)
Great video, new to drip irrigation and this answred so many questions. Around the back of my house, I have 41 feet of garden space to water, working with mostly different varieties of peppers (Bell, Habinero, Jalapeno, Serano, Ghost, Carolina, Hungariun Hot Banana, and Sweet banana
Awesome choice in peppers! As a fellow pepper fan, I grow mine with drippers (1/4" drip line to be specific) rather than spray :)
@@dripdepot i am following your examples, and have way too many peppers to eat, so i have been giving them away to neighbors.... but i feel, or they are looking like i am over watering them, for an adult plant, what GPH do you recommend? I have been ising 2 gal, on 1/4 line, and 2 drippers per plant.
@@dirtyd1398 Well it definitely sounds like you're doing something right since you have enough to give away! A poor yield is actually one of the signs of overwatering, so it's a good sign you're getting a good yield :) Many symptoms of overwatering are similar to underwatering which can make it a bit of a challenge to identify what is going on, but look for yellowing leaves and wilting leaves. Both of those are symptoms of overwatering. Specific to overwatering can be a blossom end rot, basically this is dark, sunken spots on the end of the fruit. Pale and uneven coloring can also be a sign of overwatering. If you do have a few of those symptoms, you could try lowering the watering cycle a bit -- 2.0 GPH drippers would be on the higher end of flow rates for button drippers, so, depending on your current cycle, a shorter cycle might help. In addition to that is soil drainage -- if you have thick or clay-like soil that experiences slower drainage, a shorter watering cycle is likely to help as well -- likewise if you have a thick layer of mulch over the top of the soil, the soil moisture retention rate is going to be high (which is a good thing, but could also call for shorter watering cycles). Look to see if you have some of those overwatering symptoms, and if so, shorten the watering cycle. A soil moisture meter can also help determine if the soil moisture is at a good level -- even one of the inexpensive analog types (like this one: www.dripdepot.com/soil-moisture-meter) can accurately measure soil moisture content.