Hey guys and welcome to the channel.
My Name is Hussein, i am an ex-automotive technician who worked mainly on SAAB and SCANIA, but i have an extensive experience as well in many makes and models.
I established this channel because of my love to the field, but as well to help you guys repair your cars in a cost effective manner by diagnosing the issues rather than guessing.
I hope you support the channel so i can run it forever, thanks for taking the time to read and watch, please comment, like and subscribe for more.
G’day mate..
If you want to contact me: [email protected]
Want to Join SAAB club of DUBAI ..
facebook.com/groups/434322280593864/
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Sorry but i couldn't understand... I have a aero 93 2004... Also the mine has that issue?
Does anyone have the tool list?
5:42 Have you tried Honda's Shin Etsu grease yet? It's even better at doing this than SuperLube et al. Life changing stuff.
Nice job!
Whats the torque for the guides? Also 10Nm?
Perfect work!!!!!..
Thank you. Very helpful, even if you elect to just replace the motor. Much cheaper than the dealer and not difficult to do!
2006 saab9-3 2.0t cooling fan is parked after operation but the fan does not operate even if the cooling water boils
06 saab9-3 2.0t cooling fan The fan does not operate even when the right side of the cooling fan is turned on The cooling water does not work even if it boils Is it a motor problem? (left handle) Are both cooling fans the same size??
If one fan is not running it is most probably burned, fans must always run together. If a fan burns, sometimes it burns the fuse with it and even the fan control module. If one fan is burned, then after running with engine off is disabled . Bothe fans have the same dimensions, but different amp rating and different connector (the connector can be modified to fit both sides) . Last thing, if one fan burns the second fan will burn soon after, suggest replace both fans at the same time.
i have a saab 93 b207l no codes show but under heavy acceleration it judders and pops thru the rev range if i build up boost slowly its fine untill u have the pedal so far down any advice as im stumped
Ignition coils.
Thank you for the video, i just did a flush (6l dumped out). After the dealer and mechanics telling me that the GL350 didn't need transmission servicing now at its at 200,000KM and there is torque shuddering. After the flush, shuddering is almost all gone. I will drive a few more KM and see if I need to add additive such as Shudder Fixx. thanks again for the great video.
My car is a 2008 9-3 Aero Saab V6 turbo convertible - will this video work for reparing my power steering rack leak? I think it's coming from the bottom of the car. Guesing I need to replace the seal to the rack at bottom....any idea where I can find the correct seal kit ?? I really dont want to replace the entire power steering rack
You sound like a very knowledgeable mechanic 👍
Great job! Do you know if there should be a 12v on the distributoer plug when I turn on ignition car key??
wow. Great video, thank you very much!
Do you recommend cheap ebay ECUs or like a specific website? You can buy two cheap ebay ones for the cost of 1 on saab parts.
99% of the ECUs on eBay are broken, people sell their own broken shi**
There is no such thing as "Lifetime" fluid, it's a marketing strategy to sell cars just like 10k oil changes. Once out of warranty, failure is inevitable
My Saab 9-3 2004 2,0t keep getting P0245 P0201 P0202 P0203 P0204 after around 1 hour of drive, then I send my old ecu to someone to clone it to a “new” ecu, got both back but the car started sound like a tractor and won’t rev above 3000rpm after “new” ecu installed, What you think the problem is? And how to solve it? Is the “new” ecu broken? Please help, it been 2 months now and can’t drive normally.
Whats the fault codes on the current ECU ?? Possible wrong cloning if no codes
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY unfortunately i don’t have tech2 or other expensive obd, I have a scanner who shows me codes when the check engine light is on. The guy who clone the ecu said that I broke the ecu because I didn’t remove the negative from the battery. But you and many others said it’s caused by improper cloning. It something wrong with the software in the new ecu that he didn’t solve.
@@Babaa016 no removing the cable has zero effect .. do u still have ur old ECU ?
Yes, in the car, works fine in cold weather. Gives me the check engine light when it’s hot. I send back the “new” ecu back to the guy who cloned it. To see what the problem is.
Is the gasket new?
I recommend new gasket
Hi flying . I know this video is a bit olfd J ust a strage situation. I followed your video intructions to the left front driver lock. The reason was the random alarm issue especially when the car was parked under hot sunshine. Before proceeding to the repair all functions where almost ok, by means central locking/unlocking of all doors exept some randome sporadic individual doors failing to operate (lock/unlock) Alarm was engaging and disengaging by remote as well. After the repair (resoldering , greasing etc.) and while connecting the 2 door plugs the sirene started to sing and I stoped it by the remote (central unlock button ). That was the end of story. The lock is electrically dead now, all doors central locking by remote is dead No theft fucntion anymore (no flashing dush red light) and no steering wheel locking/ unlocking even if I through in the remote into ISM. The only sign while I'm using remote button for cental locking is the flashing of the left turning light for a couple of times. Windows central control is working but can't program the driver's window. The only door lock that sounds electrically active is the rear left (behind driver) which gives the motor sound while I lock it manualy . All other locks are dead. I diconnected negative battery pole but still the same symptoms. Luckily the engine cranks and can lock the car manually with the driver's door key (all other doors are manually locked by hand). Surprising the trunk can ulock by remote(!!) Any idea???
U probably bridged a connection inside or didn’t assemble the lock correctly , because there are few variations of that lock, i cant really help in details, but u should be able with the help of the appropriate wiring diagram of ur car to test if there is any short between pins at the locks, and if the resistance values for motors makes sense, and if the pins dedicated to the door lock sensor are changing when door is locked & unlocked .
What about w204 2011 benz c300 without a89 code
This procedure just saved my 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0t. Now is running fine again. Thank you for this video to help us resurrect these cars to enjoy more. Big shout out to the TrionicTuning community for blessing us with the software and instructions on how to perform this.
I know this is a really old video but a wonderful demonstration for a tech who is teaching himself. Seeing your process was neat.
The 2019 Mercedes Sprinter V6 Diesel engine has the 7 speed with what look like two return lines, one that goes to the same spot on the left and right of the transmission. Are these both return lines? And should both be hooked up to the 1/2" hose for the flush?
The return is the right side. I no longer recommend this method cause its too hard for the average technician , a normal drain+torque converter drain should be sufficient .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY And how many liters will this type of drain change?
@@chasealstott1 just over 8L
One big question, why do you remove the whole door panel if that isn't necessary? Thank you.
Question; when setting your air flow plate stop pin, do you use the front of the air flow housing or the rear of the air flow housing to align your air flow plate? KE plates are at an angle, so front and rear are never at same point as far as aligning with inner ring of housing. Using front of car as front of plate.
Thank You Sir! You saved me a ton of money and it was easy! 2011 R350
Good video. Dear god are you working in a cave? The echo is incredible.
This is great!
Great video!
Anybody have a amazon link to the pump gauge?
thanks for the video! Tried this kit, the o-ring lasted for only a couple months...Will try oem this time
Thx man!!!!
nice video. is this the b207R? I got a 2007 2.0 and am doing timing thanks
Yes B207R
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Hey thanks. Last question if you have the time. Did you have to remove the sub frame? if so do you happen to know the socket size for those bolts?Is it really needed to replace those bolts? Thanks! Happy Saabin
@@user-up1xy9oh1m no need to remove subframe at all
Instead of starting the car why not just pump new fluid in on one side and the return line pushes out clean???
U can do that if u want to, its more or less the same
There is a tool to attach to the filter hole to push new fluid or low pressure air to get all the old fluid out. The valve body alone holds at least 2 quarts
If u only drain the oil pan+torque converter u will drain the full capacity if the gearbox minus one quart, so the valve body with all the plumbing and oil converter holds just less than one quart.
Hi, thank you for such a detailed video! I accidentally got myself a set of rims with sensors, so looking into this project. I'm a bit confused though. Why would one have to splice the existing cables, if a factory made plug is already present at the right rear light? If it's not suitable for the stock TPMM (tire pressure measurement module) and needs your changes to work, what is it for then? If a cable and plug is there, I would expect it to be plug and play. Secondly, what's the year of this car? Subsequently, do you know if the part number for the module is 12791155 or 12846372? Lastly, do you know if/how one needs to connect the TPMS sensors in the tires to the module? Thanks a lot mate!
That connector is actually for an optional alarm system thats why u have to do the mod. The module number depends on the year of the car. To connect the sensors to the module u will need to follow the steps described using tech2 in the video
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to respond! In the meantime I've found out that there's no such plug in my '08 vert. Luckily the developer of Esid has created a nice pdf with the correct plug specs. I've found out the first part number is for the first iteration of Saab's TPMS system, used' 03-'06. Apparently it wasn't very good. The second part number is for' 08-'11, but can be used in earlier models as well, according to the pdf from Esid.
@@VWNMSOEST thats correct .. the vert does not have the plug, u still can splice in a wiring harness to the same locations on the rear left side of the car
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thanks. Yeah I'm gonna run new cables. However, I'll try Esid's way, cause he uses untaken terminals in one of the plugs on the REC, instead of splicing.
Hello. And whats about P2135 code? Faulty Throttle body or acceleration pedal?
Usually ECU or wiring, sometimes accelerator pedal .. i heard some people replaced throttle body to solve it but never seen myself neither i trust it, as this an accelerator pedal code
Flying MechanicDIY is the man! I really appreciate all the articulated details and picture qualify. Every critical closeup is crystal clear! I have been longing for a complete flush for my transmission and had no clue which spot on the tranny's cooler return path i can access easily. a lot of mechanics doing 722.9 just drain the torque converter but that approach still leaves behind quite some old fluid in the oil cooler and lines.
I am about to do this on my own, so your video was extremely helpful. Thank you! 🤠🚑
One of the best tutorials I’ve seen well done and thank you 🙏 not a job to be rushed it’s w201 heart surgery this 😮 look forward to watching your other videos on the back of this 👍
I wish u had a video about how to programming Streering wheel lock module as well 😢
It is the same literally..
can you flash with the ECU off the car ? ( on table )
Yes
Does it have anything to do with errors p1681 and p2135?
2135 yes 1681 is bad ECU
@TheFlyingMechanicDIY what if you get both codes simultaneously?well have cleaned my throttle body after getting those codes. 3 days now,no more code.
@@serateable im sure the 1681 will have to return .. the. U replace the ECU and see if the 2135 comes back or not
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY UPDATE.. well,all the codes p1681 and p2135 dissapeared as the weather got warmer. 4 weeks after spring,There is no more issue. It seems to start late winter /early spring and end late spring. Same happened last year . It is definately a dirty connector . Which connectors can i check and clean ?? .... Thank you.,
I need help. Tried jumper wires. Didn’t do anything. What can I use to make jumper wires? Please help me.
If jumper wires didnt help then the ABS is not ur problem
Mine dont do noises, is normal?
No noise at all means pump broken from running continuously because of vacuum leaks (
Thanks, it was broken.. i replaced it and now work but i still have some leaks i think.. when i put D car push forward (like i break and accelerate same time)
Which is a socket (I saw somewhere that it is 15mm) for a screw that is tightened to 40Nm + 30 degrees, I suspect that this screw has loosened because I have a clicking sound when accelerating and braking.And the Clicking is heard only then, it is not there when driving and when going over bumps.
Is the noise when u switch from reverse to drive or the other way ..
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY And when going forward and backward, when accelerating, it clicks once and then only when braking. When the weight of the vehicle is shifted forward or backward, there is no clicking in between. I suspected the brake pads since they got some clearance, because in that case the symptom is the same, I replaced the pads and the sound remained :) then I asked my brother who has the same Saab 9-3 and he mentioned that he had the same problem and that he then tightened this screw 24456355 on the advice of the mechanic and that he had no problems afterwards. There is logic, because at that point the center of gravity of the vehicle goes back and forth. And, I only hear it from the right wheel, on the passenger side. Also, I have an idea why that screw came loose - due to vibrations due to bad TRW brake pads. Recently, when I was driving on the highway, vibrations appeared at about 120 km/h, especially when braking at those speeds. Now that I replaced the brake pads and put on Brembo Prime, these vibrations are gone, only the clicking sound remains
I have a question. My car has two tubes, one on each side of the transmission. Which should I disconnect to flush the driver's or passenger's side? Help please
I no more suggest disconnecting any pipe, drain the torque converter through its drain plug and u will be fine. If u chose the other method disconnect right hose.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you
Now after u are done the trans temp is 44 c if it hotter is there something wrong So if I drive it down the hwy it should only be around 44c let me know please
Temperature here is used to set the correct ATF level, in normal drive the temperature is much higher than this.