Come join me as I explore the world of 3D Printing! My name is Christopher Hoffman, and I am a mechanical engineer turned software developer who is curious about digital fabrication. Follow me as I explore 3D printing, casting, mold making, 3D scanning and more!
I also develop 3D Print Log, a free tool to track 3d print settings, filament usage, print durations and much, much more. Create a free account today at www.3dprintlog.com
Support me on Patreon! www.patreon.com/HoffmanEngineering
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Why would you store sealed filament in a dry box?
Tried gorilla wood filler, never again, what a complete piece of s*&^%
Hi, what is the price on this? I mean, is it less than the Bambu A1 combo? Is there a reason to NOT get the Bambu and get this one instead? A like for like with a proven track record on one seems like the price would have to be VERY attractive .
The Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo is currently on sale for $450, which is about $40 less than the Bambu A1 combo on sale. I don't yet have enough testing to be able to compare them, but that proven track record is a good point to keep in mind.
Ordered mine
This hardware DESPERATELY needs better software. At launch there doesn't appears to be a way to adjust the filament change waste or even remove the purge block. So multicolor prints literally use more wasted filament than filament for the actual print.
I'm still getting to know the machine, but there is a purge setting in the ACE tab on the printer that you can tell it to extrude more or less when wiping. You can't change if there is a purge block or not from the printer since that's part of the gcode, but the Anycubic Slicer does let you remove the purge block. There is a crazy amount of waste though when switching colors. The 4 color gyro example print is 60 grams of filament, but produced 221 grams of waste. It's certainly something I'm keeping track of to see if there's any good way of reducing it.
niice n speedy
pssst, post cards to your previous print drying videos!
What about motocycle or car parts. I guess if it handle a full body, might be good for motocycle but not sure for a car.
With markers, I'd expect car and motorcycle parts to work pretty well. Creality has examples of a full car body on their website. You'd need to use a laptop for it, since you'd be moving around a large area.
They have to improve the software. No orthogonal view what it makes deleting stuff complicated and it’s deleting the original scans after merging. No alignment function to a coordinate system. No auto alignment using markers when fusing 2 body’s. (As far I know. There is no check mark to select for Auto alignment)
That is a good list of suggestions right there! The alignment workflow could definitely be approved, it was the only part where I struggled.
$2500 good bye
Can you use 1.75mm filament in this because it says only 1.5mm?
It uses standard 1.75mm filament. Where does it say 1.5mm?
The otter creates a more dense mesh if you use markers. Markers are a must have when scanning featureless frames. That’s the best advice I can give, right there! 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎☮️☮️☮️
I think you’d freak out if you performed all of the same scans with the Creality Raptor hybrid blue laser- NIR scanner. The detail it can capture is mind blowing 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎☮️
I've seen really good results with the Raptor. I hope to get the opportunity to test one out and see how it compares with the Otter.
The otter and raptor are really an amazing contribution to so many fields of technology. Thank you so much Creality, I commend you for your tireless efforts to help progress humanity. I had a thought/ brainstorm, could you use a clear transparent base to locate the octopus on. That way you could scan right through the underside of the base, and create data without having to flip it over? Food for thought. Please keep making informative content on how to use the Creality scanners. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎☮️
I appreciate the comments! I agree, the Otter is a pretty good leap compared to similar handheld scanners of just a year or two ago. The transparent base is interesting. I'll have to see if I have anything that's transparent to infrared light. But if you can find a base like that, then I think that would work!
did you notice any difference/improvment from the last update?
I only did extensive testing on the one version shown in the video. As I was finishing editing there has been a new version of Creality Scan released, but I have not been able to put that new version to the test yet.
How does it compare to a Revopoint Mini?
Unfortunately I have not had the chance to try the Revopoint Mini. I'll try and get my hands on one though to test out. The Otter gives better results than the Revopoint Pop2 I last used, but that is a few years older and less expensive, so not really a fair comparison.
Thats a far way from using the xbox as a scanner. 😅 Cool!
It would be nice to have some kind of test to check the accuracy. For example scan screws of different diameters and print them. Than test what is the smallest diameter which fits the corresponding nut.
That wouldn’t be accurate. You need to measure points in the point cloud. If you print it you add the printer tolerance. The printer x/y calibration, Flow calibration, pressure advance calibration and material shrinkage. The accuracy of the scanner is listed as 0.02mm. In general that means around 0.05mm accuracy in real world scanning. You can use cloud compare to measure point cloud distances for example.
are the 3D scans size accurate, or do you still have to scale them after to the original size of the thing you scanned?
I don't know how I didn't mention it, but yes, items are scaled accurately on export.
Need some made can u plz contact me
？
excellente vidéo de teste ! merci
Is there a laser engraver that can cut clear acrylics? Can’t you just leave the paper masking on the plexiglass to cut it ?
This is not 10.5 microns only. the new 14k are only about 25 micron 🤔
The 14k screens are also physically larger, so just because the resolution is higher doesn't mean the pixel size is smaller/denser. The math checks out for the longer's subpixel to be 10.5 microns.
Hello, would you have the file for this front part where the LCD is installed? V
It looks wonderful!
Hi, great video thank you. Just to be clear i can input my own artwork into the provided software to use? And is it a must to get the air compressor? Do you have a video explaining the software setup and what all the parameters mean? please. 🙏🏻
Be aware of Tyvok products!! They do not preform has they advertise! The 20wlaser is equivalent to other brands 5w laser. Worst part is Costumer service! They will not refund or resolve if you have any situation going with the laser. Be also aware of their "free Shipping", its is free but only until you receive contact from the customs saying you have taxes and shipping to pay
sometimes when i test the webhook not sent, is this plugin still supported or updated?
3D Print Log integration is still supported, and the webhooks coming from user's Octoprint look normal on my end. I'd be happy to help debug though. How do you know the test webhooks are not sent?
Note that - unless yours was different the Jiccota is a class 1 laser (which does not require eye protection - unless of course you stand and stare at it.) What that means is that in normal use as long as you dont constantly look at it, the reflected laser won't hurt your eyes. HOWEVER you are right to warn people to use protection because there are so many variables that not taking the chance is a good thing. PS a Class 4 laser is the one you have to be paranoid about.
This is definitely a class 4 laser (as indicated on the side of the laser module and the front of the control panel). Eye protection is REQUIRED for anyone around the laser, or you will damage your eyes.
@@HoffmanEngineering yeah after some thought it seemed weird they were claiming it was a class 1. the literature I looked at was wrong abt that.
In the amazon listing it says it can cut through .8 inch steel is that true??
What geometry commands from SpaceClaim modeler are missing in design spark??? It seems to me like all the commands are there.
im trying to copy an edge like you do in the video and i cant seem to do the same no matter what i press. could you please describe that to me thank you so much
SK1-2.0.2.17 FIRMWARE contains a *lot* of fixes to issues. It even does the thumbnails! ;-)
Do you have anything to show how to make the 3d file?
i have a question. Can it cut copper sheets?
Hi. I dont see 4k 60fps in the specs. Is that accurate?
The PLA stamps will work better if you dampen the paper first. Well done. If you make the PLA from a filament with a bit more give, may work better.
Hello! Where to find the image files? In the offical web page looks not complete, no?
They have links to Google Drive folders container the firmware and instructions on the Two Trees wiki: wiki.twotrees3d.com/en/3DPrinterSeries/SK1
@@HoffmanEngineering Lot of thanks !
Looks great. I did an intensive amount of research and ultimately decided on this model. It seems to produce good quality results and checks a lot of boxes.
I love that you named your dog Jack!
Can you tell me how to turn that cross hair on and off? Mine does not come on and I need to know if it's a problem with the machine or if something got turned off some how?
I love that the button is named "Button" on the machine
It is very descriptive.
Interesting, isn't it?🥰
Hi, I've got the Sony Fdr-Ax33 camera. I've got a problem. When I shoot 20 minutes or longer videos, when I transfer my videos to the computer, my videos are divided into two. Example: 20 minutes video is displayed in two separate files as 10 minutes on the computer. How can I solve this problem. I want my long videos in a single file. I don't want every 10 minutes to be a separate file. I want my long videos in one file. I would be very grateful if anyone helps?
Loved the vido, quick question if i may, I have a Voxelab Aquila and not sure if I would be able to use something like this as having real issues leveling my bed
You forgot to mention that support for this item is trash. First of all, you cannot purchase spare parts such as certain cables, the x-axis adjuster, or even a laser module to use as a spare. My autofocus failed. which seems to be common for this model (google it), and support could not fix it. The flame detection failed and the laser continued to burn and did not return to the "home" location causing the laser head to melt. Atezr would only replace the laser head with a 5w laser and stated it would work on my machine. I'm still fighting with them to honor their warranty... 3 months later.
oh wow my comment actualy stay if i type gibberish, but if i write REAL text yt removes it ? :P
p'ohjiwetjop'OPJU'EgopikweKTGMM WGE
Now on sale for 250,- since no one wanted it :P just bought one.
They send me this 600$ printer that i can keep for myself, but i did not get payed so its an honest review :P Whahaahaha. Just bought one NEW for 250$ since no one actually bought it since its horrible :P