This channel is to show my progress in the world of woodturning. I am starting right at the point of where I do not own a lathe or have a suitable workshop to work in. Therefore the initial videos are all based on the preparation work and planning in building the workshop which will then progress through my first steps with a lathe and on to future projects.
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Very insightful. I bought a 40 tpi chaser (external) some 50 years ago but never used. I have a vague recollection that in the old days fine threads were put onto telescopes and other optical instruments in this way. Keep up the good work!
Great video and explanation. Could I ask a question if i may? I saw on the website the set of 4 bushings for the Mistral but for the same pen(s) there are also 2 more bushings for the accents. Do I need to purchases the latter too or could I just use the 1 kit for the main body? Apologies for the question but completely new to pen turning.
Thank you. The second set of bushings are if you want to make your own Accent rings. If you are going to use with what comes with the standard kit then there is no need for them.
@@PaulLockwood most kind, thank you good man. I’ll do some practice on slimline rollerball first then I’ll embrace that very pen kit.
Thanks for the review
I really liked the finished look for this pen, Paul. Great choice of wood to use with the gunmetal finish. Solid review as always. Thanks!
Hi Paul, I love the Athena pen kit and have sold dozens of them. Although there are now instructions TM do have a video on this kit, which is quite unnecessary as it it one of the simplest pens to put together in my mind. Take care mate. Cheers, Huw
Awesome video, have you got a video for the pencil kit?
It will be interesting to see if the click mechanism holds up to being used. Great review as ever Paul. Take care. Cheers, Huw
Hi ! I have never used ebonising laquer or black paint on wood, but it seems to me that your are expecting the same result for both of this, while laquer is meant to give a result where you steel see the wood fibers. Here I think you put to much of it.
Great video as always. I can highly recommend the tempest. By day I am a mechanical engineer. I have had mine for about 5yrs and it is still faultless. It has been used in offices, fabrication shops, been covered in coolant and oil, dropped from heights and still going as new. The plating is slowly coming off though.
Hi Paul, I will have to give this kit a go as up until now I have mainly used the Athena kit and occasionally the Prokraft Atom kit. I have to say I have had one issue with the Athena which TM resolved very quickly indeed. Thanks again for this series Paul. Take care mate. Cheers, Huw
I prefer a click pen. This one looks like a really good one to give a go. Thanks for your review, Paul! Well done!
Great video,thank you very much.That's all about this Makita.All in one video.
Hmmm. It could open the door to a new design.
Biggest problem I've found with the lacquer is it can hold on to streaks. You need to be very careful with application, keeping layers super thin and consistent. Any error and it's back to bare wood. CA is a bit more forgiving in that it's tougher and you can sand it quite a bit to even things out.
Nice video. Must try something like that myself.
Great job. Eccentric turning is a lot of fun. Thanks for sharing it.
This was a very cool video, Paul. The eccentric approach to the inside of the bowl was quite novel. I like the end result and appreciate your commentary on the process. I'm not expecting to do much eccentric turning, but this video will be helpful should I move in that direction. Thanks!
Those are really cool! Thanks for sharing
Thank you. Something quite simple from scraps that are great for Christmas. Ideal to sell, gift or use yourself.
Fascinating technique. Own the flaws!
Thank you. It's all part of the challenge to try and not throw something away and see what I can produce form it.
Hi Paul, I find your video so informative. Thanks for doing them. Take care mate. Cheers, Huw
Thank you Huw. I do this to learn which is why I will never be like a lot of others and just churn out the same thing all the time. I rarely practice a piece so the finished item is never the best I can produce which shows others what they will encounter on their first attempt and hopefully produce something better.
Thank you for sharing your gifts with everyone!! Great work!
Thank you Lynda. It's all about learning and sharing all the good and more importantly the bad bits. I get inspiration from other peoples work so it's only fair to pass what I do on.
Nicely done Paul. I wish I could find firewood like that!
Thank you. Find a local wood mill, they often have scraps and if they mill logs then they will probably have pieces like this that they may sell for firewood. I did a video a while ago when I visited the mill, so you can see what it's like.
Another job well done. The textured/colored band looks great. The dry brushing too. It sets off the red so nicely. Great work on a lively bowl Paul.
Thank you Doug. I think the dry brushing (which is what I wanted to have a go at) really makes the texture stand out. Certainly have plans for something on a bugger scale.
Nice work. Well done!
Thank you
Really well done, Paul! I, too, have wanted to try my hand at this kind of texturing, coloring, etc. Your video is helpful and motivating. Thanks!
It's all a learning curve and this has given me more ideas. The dry brushing really helps to bring out the texturing.
Beautiful
Thank you. I think the narrow band is just enough for the size bowl. Really pleased on how the dry brushing brought out all the texture and looking forward to using it again.
hi Paul i am a beginner at wood turning just got me a lathe can you give me some tip to get started i got a lathe from aldi you will know what i meane lol but it got me i did a bowl but was not so good infarct it was s_it lol i did a vid and it was well you no i got me a proper lathe now so can you point me in the right direction cos you a bit of a dab hand at it seen alot of your vids thanks nick from bolton
Welcome to the addictive world of wood turning. Start simple, my early videos were all soft woods and it’s about learning how to do it safe and use the tools properly. Mike Waldron did a series on most of the tools. My first ever project was a simple spindle for a kitchen roll holder that is hung next to the lathe and still gets used all the time. Bowls can be quite hard to get the right shape and finish. Spindle work is easier. Look at simple things that can be any shape like mushrooms where you can even turn them into lidded boxes. For ideas look at Carl Jacobson but sort the videos to his oldest ones, these are all simple projects you start out with. Even look at my early videos, that experience will help you learn quickly where those small processes all help for the bigger projects.
And look for a local woodturning club. Ours has monthly sawdust sessions that put mentors and newbies in a hands on workshop. Hands on learning with someone helping is the best. We also get monthly meetings with demonstrators from all over the region.
@@PaulLockwood thank you Paul for replying and thank you for you help and tips 👍👍👍👍
@@Mvdiverstuff thank you for replying will look out for some cheers
Nice job Paul. It could be a pot pourri bowl. Nice shape. 😊
Yes for sure, most of my projects are just initial thoughts as I then see what wood I have to make them rather than nice dried blanks that cost the earth.
Very good explanations of the three and how they compare. I’m with you on the tung oil. It also dries harder than the (boiled) linseed oil. When it comes to Danish oil, I prefer to make my own. It’s a simple mixture of tung oil, varnish, and mineral spirits. Tung oil is the hardest of the nut oils. I like spar varnish because of its water resistive properties and you can control the gloss of the mixture by choosing the desired gloss in the varnish. Then I’ll use odorless mineral spirits for a lower odor in the mixture. But this is another video. Nice work Paul.
Thank you Doug. I’m going to have to look into that more. I’m guessing these are all readily available in the UK. Not a lover of danish oil that I have as the smell isn’t great and does hang around a long time.
Interesting test Paul. Danish oil is interesting as it has no fixed recipe. Screwfix recipe uses boiled linseed oil and isn't toy safe. I've just 16:11 bought Parrs Danish oil to try which also use linseed oil but a polymerised version with no metallic driers so should also be food safe. Then there is the hard wax oils. I've used the chestnut one but I really settle on the German brand Oli Natura whish has no metallic driers in either. It would be interesting to see how they have darkened in a year. Cheers Dave
I knew there was no set recipe for Danish Oil, but thought it always used Tung oil. After a search I found the below. Oil varnish nothing more than one part resin (varnish or poly) one part solvent (mineral spirits, naphtha) and one part BLO or favorite drying oil (Tung, linseed, or walnut)
@@PaulLockwood interesting! Chestnut call it finishing oil out of respect for the founder of Rustin's. There is a post on their website about it.
Very informative, Paul! Tried and True brand Danish Oil is one that I have used. It's polymerized. Haven't tried the Hampshire Sheen one. I love the finish but accounting for the drying time can be a hassle. It has been a long time since I used pure tung oil. Need to try it again based on your results. I use boiled linseed oil quite sparingly on the things I turn. Mostly use it to refresh my workbench top. Thanks!
It was quite interesting to see how they compared. Never really use BLO only ever as a lubricant for Shellac, which is why I have it. I find the Danish Oil with the additives not to be a nice smell and does often take quite some time before it disappears. I know some people finish it off sometimes with a wax, which does make me wonder why apply it in the first place. I was quite surprised on how well the Pure Tung Oil finished up with the extra coats. Only applying one coat on my recent projects gave it a finish similar to lemon oil, but I think 3 coats does make a difference. The drying time is the issue with all these oils, even the ones with the additives.
I like it very different, you've highlighted the cracks and made a feature. Some will like others won't, but if you like it then great. Geoff
Thank you Geoff. Yes it’s a marmite piece like most things are. Like with most of my work it’s often all about the challenge on what can I make from the wood as a finished piece. Several pieces I’m not a fan of but it’s all about the thinking and getting to an end result.
Life is too short to waste time on a piece of cracked wood. That large crack is always going to dominate the form, and form is everything in wood turning, not to mention that turning a piece with a large crack can be dangerous. Too many novice woodturners waste both their time and the viewers trying to salvage a piece that would be better used in the wood stove.
Not everyone has access to or can afford to pay £10+ for a kiln dried blank of this size. Therefore it is to show on what can be done if you find cracks rather than just fixing it with CA. Had I not burnt it the crack would have been left in tact and possibly not visible, reducing any risks when turning. With regards to the form, yes of course the crack is going to dominate it as I've cut it out with the Dremmel to make a feature of it. Woodturning isn't about making things perfectly round without any flaws in the work. I'm no artist but it is an art form where there will always be something that appeals to some people and a lot that people don't like.
I like it, Paul! It's always fun to take a step on the wild side do something a little bit unique. Well done!
Thank you. Was just a way to rescue the wood into something of a finished piece.
So... not to be that guy but... what was shipped on that pallet prior to you deciding to carve it up and stick it in your mouth? I used to work in shipping and, having 50 gallon drums of random industrial chemicals showing up leaking all over the pallets they were strapped to was a fairly regular thing. It's probably ok to use such scrap wood for coffee tables or whatever... but something you actually put in your mouth... eh... I dunno... just say'n.
Very true, which may also be the case for a lot of wood that we use. There is no saying about the source of a lot of wood unless you fell it and process it yourself. Yes for sure pallet wood would have a greater risk and more than likely contain chemicals to treat it.
Interesting Paul, nice shape. I've had the colour run/thin when I've applied Danish oil over chestnut stain, but maybe didn't allow to dry properly. Geoff
Thank you Geoff. On this one there was no run. I'm doing another video on oil finishes at the moment and the different colours all come onto the cloth a little with each of the oils I've used. Not much but may have taken a little out. But the oil pops the colour so make it look more intense.
Very unique Paul. If you had done a short lidded box versus a longer vase would the 5 sides be more evident (appear to be that is)? YT doesn’t do it justice 😊
Possibly. As the sides are not very wide (more sides and the shorter they become) it doesn't show up on the camera so much. When you look at the top view then they are more apparent.
So pyrography is pretty much just a fancy word for woodburning?
Yes, but it's a real art in itself in that the intensity of the burning is a skill to create some amazing results. Most beginners will just do a heavy burn, which is great for a basic result. Checkout the channel kzread.info/dron/4EqQlIocvjNoQfH_4eiQug.html where Valerie shows the real skill in this art to create some stunning images. This takes a lot of time, patience and practice. Also requires you to be quite arty which I lack those skills.
@@PaulLockwood Thanks for taking the time to explain. I looked into it some more myself and found out that the term pyrography applies to many different medias like leather, gourds, cotton fabric, antlers, and pretty much anything that can be controlled burned. To where woodburning is pyrography on just specifically wood. I learned something today!
I always thought these were stains rather than dyes. I have been trying to get Kedda red. If this stuff is dye I am happy with that.
Hi David, they're listed as a Dye on the website, but that could always be an assumption. bolgers.co.uk/collections/powder-liquid-colourants Reading up on the difference as below, I suppose as the pigments are so fine they could be classed as a dye but I suspect different types of woods would create different results. Stains are made of colored pigments that stick in the grain and pores of the wood surface while dyes consist of microscopic particles that penetrate the wood itself
@PaulLockwood Basically a dye is actually soluble in a solvent.
Nice work Paul!
Thank you.
Hi Paul, I've made my first couple of whistles recently, great fun
Thank you Andy. Yes they can be great fun and a bit frustrating at times to get the whistle to work with the correct sized openings.
I don't do any kind of wood-turning. I'm curious if you can use a Forstner bit in the lathe to hollow out large holes?
Yes and drill bit will hollow things out. Using a lathe just gives better control to get a good finish and base.
@@PaulLockwood Hi, thanks for the reply. I meant can you use a forstner in the tailstock of the lathe.
Excellent piece Paul. This eccentric chuck is such a simple design. I can see it becoming a standard piece in shops in the years to come. Lots of possibilities with that.
Yes, not the cheapest of things, but Axminster do put these on sale from time to time.
I agree with the overuse of plastic bags, the long bag that all the other bags come in, I reuse to put the finished pen in to keep it safe before I give it away.
Hopefully things will change over time.
Agree, the depth cut would definitely make it easier.
Yes it's one of those things you think about as you go along, which is why I don't like to practice these things and people see as I do.
Very cool, Paul! Thanks for a great demonstration on how to do this kind of turning.
Thank you
Very informative Paul,thanks for all the reviews you're doing on the different kits👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎😎😎
Thank you Alan
Great review, Paul! Not my kind of pen for all the reasons you identified, but a good value for people who do fancy these kinds of themed pens. Thanks!
Thank you. I think you sometimes have to buy what you hesitate about and give it a try. Certainly understand why people stick clear of the novelty pens, like all things everyone had different tastes.
Hello can you please tell me where you got your spread sheet from for calculating the width of the open segments.
It was something I created myself with lots of trig research. Link below should hopefully work for you. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2a02bwaqnUlRvv56pLupNSeGOJ8cRiL/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=103899567354864454506&rtpof=true&sd=true
Thank you that's great. 👍
Crush the shellac flakes first and they dissolve a lot faster!
They would a little bit. I usually have them fairly small as I use a plastic bottle lid to fill my container. I was quite surprised on how quickly they dissolve.