This video is so informative. I’m on the fence about buying a used treadmill because it will need a new tread. Some how the person who owns it put a huge hole in it. If peloton is not helpful with purchasing supplies how would I go about getting a new tread to replace it. Any suggestions
@charlieaf9215 күн бұрын
I've found the Peloton parts department to be very helpful. If you call and ask to speak to parts you have a better chance to getting someone on the phone that can answer technical questions + give you information about replacement slats.
@GoMakeSomeSandwhich25 күн бұрын
For this price point, this shouldn’t be an issue
@charlieaf9225 күн бұрын
You're not wrong.
@elesazehndorfer688129 күн бұрын
Genius, thank you! For now I went for the easy fix, shoved resistance up to max and now its in the easiest zone and usable again 😊 Could I just keep this inverted resistance approach as a permanent fix?
@charlieaf9228 күн бұрын
:) If it works for you, I don't see why not! It's been a long time since I had the machine apart but, if I remember correctly, once the cable slips off there isn't enough movement to give you the full range of resistance. But, if it's working for you I don't see any harm in continuing to use it that way.
@elesazehndorfer688127 күн бұрын
@@charlieaf92 Many thanks! I'll try this temp fix as long as it works, then I'll use the proper fix you've shared in this video.
@ericarodlife6612Ай бұрын
An iguana got caught in the front part of the tread belt within inner part of the tread. How do you get access into the front inner part of the belt?
@charlieaf92Ай бұрын
Wow... So you can remove the slats individually but accessing the back of them (from the bottom where it sags down) and using a small wrench. The front caps on each side also pull straight off to give a bit more access.
@frankiebprАй бұрын
Excellent description and analysis!!! Thanks
@chriswall5941Ай бұрын
Thank you thank you, awesome video and this took me about 30 careful minutes instead of the 10+ hours it has taken many others on their course of discovery to achieve the same result.
@ezzadanАй бұрын
you didnt need to talk about anything, just show how to make it faster or not require pressure
@elliotdobnerАй бұрын
any common issues why my tread is not turning on? I had to move it to my garage reassembled it and now it’s not firing up. I have it plugged into a non gfci outlet.
@charlieaf92Ай бұрын
It's possible the outlet is on a GFCI circuit even if the outlet itself isn't GFCI. I'd check your breaker panel to see if any breakers are tripped + look around in the garage and see if there is a GFCI outlet that has tripped that is part of the same circuit. There is also a little breaker on the Tread itself, right next to where the power cord attaches. I'd make sure that hasn't popped.
@Person-jy4scАй бұрын
You are a master man
@2fast2nick2 ай бұрын
Doing mine this weekend. Went to change the diff fluid and found out the boots are ripped.
@C4S9112 ай бұрын
The smiles and giggles says it all! I love it!!
@rklos112 ай бұрын
Nice tutorial. It would be funny to find somoene who always leaves their door open...and lockpick it closed 😂
@lomuss52 ай бұрын
Worked for me, thank you so much!! Only cost me 25 bucks for the part
@RobertLopez-sd4li2 ай бұрын
Awesome video, great research and very informative thank you much.
@mikebell19613 ай бұрын
Thanks for that Was not sure I wanted to tackle this but you’ve simplified the processing
@dwaggonerut3 ай бұрын
Excellent troubleshooting. Thorough explanation. Thank you for your effort, time and posting.
@jodywoody16893 ай бұрын
Great video and great job recreating the parts. I received mine the other day and followed the video. Works perfectly again!!
@rob1163 ай бұрын
Charlie, amazing. I have the broken gear plus a broken actuator for the gear. Are you selling a kit that included the gear and actuator?
@andybissinger11643 ай бұрын
Worked nicely on a Jetta
@michaelboyle19834 ай бұрын
Thanks for the thorough explanation, and God bless you!
@mattparry53804 ай бұрын
Sounds great.
@user-nd6nv3zu8t4 ай бұрын
Worked great. Thanks!!!
@hartrick0074 ай бұрын
Hi there. I sent you an email to your Gmail re: 3d models. Cheers.
@httysctty4 ай бұрын
Hey man. Know how to get firmware last 52%? Got a new monitor and now they want to send another one. Think it’s the board or the base. You know these well. Any help is appreciated!
@brucesirota20784 ай бұрын
Great video. I first tried replacing the saddle valve with a ball valve. That did nothing. Ordered the valve assembly, and had it installed and working in 20 minutes. Good job on the video, it was extremely helpful and thorough. The video saved me a lot of time and guesswork. Thanks!
@LCEEH7204 ай бұрын
I was looking to upgrade my 996, and im trying to decide weather is fister mod or cargraphic exhuast ? Sound really good tho !! Let me know what you think - Mahalos - Bubba
@charlieaf924 ай бұрын
I've never heard the cargraphic one so I can't speak to it. But, I can say that Fister was awesome to deal with, and the sound was absolutely wonderful. Plus, since it is basically a stock exhaust system, it didn't have any negative impact on resale value of the car. If/when I purchase another 911 I wouldn't hesitate to go with a Fister exhaust again.
@ricwayneoutdoors4 ай бұрын
The spring that make the connection at the gray wire was my problem. Couldn’t close the circuit. I bent the spring and now my problem is fixed. Your continuity explanation of the gray wire led me to the spring. Thanks so much!!!
@bikenation63585 ай бұрын
Hey Charles thank you so much for the video I was hoping you could help me out with an issue I am having with my tread meal (Not a Plus) my tread meal won’t go over 3mph without giving me the message of me being off the tread meal then behinds the count down to bring the tread meal to a pause but if I lower the tread meal to 2.9mph it goes away and continues to work fine. Any suggestions on what it may be?
@charlieaf925 ай бұрын
Greetings. I'm not quite sure why this would be happening. With the Tread+ (not sure if the Tread is the same), I believe that the "off the tread" warning is triggered by the resistance the motor is seeing. Basically it measures belt speed compared to the power the motor is producing to check for "drag" caused by a user on the belt. I have heard that people under 100lb don't weigh enough to sufficiently trigger it. If you are of sufficient weight the only thing I could think of would be possibly that the belt is slipping under load and as a result the computer isn't seeing the motor slow down like it expects to.
@IanHay-ln8yr5 ай бұрын
Damn bro that’s slow..
@user-yr7li2is3b5 ай бұрын
Where is the part number?
@diggerhush29465 ай бұрын
It is much easier than this. After removing black and green parts, looking at back of lighter turn the lighter body from 12oclock to 11oclock . Counter clockwise just a bit. Push lighter body forward about 1/2 an inch. It will then be able to turn back to original orientation. If not you are not deep enough in or too far. It does all this nice and smooth. Once back in 12oclock position it will simply push the rest of the way out. No fiddling with the clear piece. No parts broken. Clear piece does have to spring release clips and slides out easily as well.
@kingpanda23635 ай бұрын
Having a problem sourcing the reset switch. I have no power in my peloton tread and I’m guessing that might be the issue. Where would I be able to find parts?
@markcapparelli50865 ай бұрын
How much would you charge to fix my wifes drybar brand flat iron?
@troylollysaf93116 ай бұрын
Help. My garage door pushes down against pavement when i press open, then pull back up two foot and stops there.. leaving a gap😢. If i press open again it will do the same thing pushes down against pavement then pull back up two foot n stops😢 The metal arm bended now😢
@aaronbuster72016 ай бұрын
I'm still having a hard time with deadbolts
@JeepTerp6 ай бұрын
Incredible Video How do you check communication cable?
@nikoniko8936 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video, I didn't even think to check any of the wiring. When I wiggled the main harness, one of the wires was indeed broken. I did a quick twist of the ends followed by some shrink tubing. Sprayed deoxit on the contacts, straightened them out and now the adjusting screws work like they are supposed to. I'm hoping a new wiring harness is available online somewhere.
@khoatran6136 ай бұрын
Thank you for this video -- I think I have this exact same problem with my Tread+. At 4:06, can you tell me what setting you turn your voltmeter to (I've never used one before)? Also, would that setting be any different if I were testing the harness at the Smartcard? Thanks.
@charlieaf926 ай бұрын
I set it to check for continuity. If you do a search for "continuity setting volt meter" you will find some tutorials as well as a picture of what the continuity symbol will look like on your meter. Basically when in this setting, any connection between the two probes will produce an audible alarm. You can test it by touching them together first like I did in the video. You can check from the harness at the smart card - this will save time and had I known what I was looking for initially that is how I would have done it. Check both harnesses so that you can use the second one as a control to ensure that you get two different results. Hope this helps!
@khoatran6136 ай бұрын
@@charlieaf92 Thx that helps a bunch. I actually just received the speed knob PCB and installed it since that was the last knob we used before the Tread went down. Unfortunately, it didn’t fix the issue (non-responsive knobs, normal touchscreen without error messages). My follow-up question is: is the PCB installation plug-and-play ie once installed the Tread+ should recognize it and just start working (if the PCB is the culprit)? Do I need to do anything else on the touchscreen? Thx!
@charlieaf926 ай бұрын
@@khoatran613 Sorry to hear that didn't resolve it. To answer your question - yes it was plug and play. Once I replaced the knob, the software update completed and I no longer received the error. Were you able to test the pins for a short on both knobs? It is possible the other knob is the culprit. If you can describe the symptoms + the sequence of events that led up to them, I might be able to provide a bit more insight.
@UnhumanNewman6 ай бұрын
Just got a replacement base (within extended warranty). Old base seemed to have bearings seemed to be going bad, making noises at low speeds. The new base is worse than the original one. I know the tread is pretty noisy in general but this new one seems like it’s making extra noises lol the major problem is that the belt slips, while the brake is engaged. So, if you have the treaded on incline, and stand towards the top of the tread, it’ll send you down. My question is, do you think that the drive belt tension or the slat belt tension? Am I able to get the drive belt without removing all the slats like you showed towards the end of the video? Edit: I know that I am still with #Warranty and I’ve scheduled somebody to come look at the tread, but that’s not for another two or three weeks. This piece of machinery that I paid for and that I pay for subscription to use monthly is too expensive to just be sitting there
@charlieaf926 ай бұрын
Wow that's super frustrating. To answer your first question I believe its the belt drive from the motor itself. The slat tread belt has cogs on it, so it shouldn't slip but could jump teeth if its too loose. A good way to check this is to put it at 0 incline and look under the machine. If it is dragging on the floor it is too loose. As far as your second question, you can remove individual slats with a small wrench. I haven't done it but I believe you can do it on the underside of the machine and then after removing a few rotate the belt around so the opening is where you need to access it. Hope this helps!
@UnhumanNewman6 ай бұрын
@@charlieaf92Thank you so much for continuing to answer questions here. You’re amazing 😊
@saddiquemiah42946 ай бұрын
Excellent video....step by step
@dsuthar6 ай бұрын
Great video! Sent you an email, would like more info on your replacement parts. Thanks!
@jjgallants6 ай бұрын
Great video. Like others, I opened dozens of videos showing you how to clean and allign the lens on the safety beam, which I knew wasn't the problem. I had a bad switch on the stop limit, which was a quick fix once I knew what to look for. Well done!
@charlieaf926 ай бұрын
Awesome, I'm glad this helped you out!
@R.Akerman-oz1tf4 ай бұрын
@@charlieaf92Love Ur display board. Crimp connectors are a boon to society.
@jamesmacdonald60947 ай бұрын
Great video! But I am perplexed by the comment you made regarding it being a good thing if you have no continuity with the roller circut. I have a tread+ and having a no comminication issue as well. But ours starred when a pillow got caught underneath and cut wires to the incline motor. That is fixed but now im getting no continuity between both the speed and incline knobs ans the smartboard. Any idea of where the break could be? Or is it possibly a simple case of a new smartboard?
@charlieaf927 ай бұрын
Greetings - thanks! The wires from the knobs run straight through the arms of the machine to the smart card in the back - so your pillow incident wouldn't have damaged those particular wires. My memory is a bit fuzzy but basically my comments were about continuity (and more specifically no resistance - I think I misspoke) between the positive and ground pins in the ribbon cable. Basically my speed knob had shorted out and the smart card sensed this and put the machine in a "limp" mode so to speak.
@babbalonian27 ай бұрын
I'm having the similar issue, with the same craftsman model, but mine turned out to be an upper bearing issue, not allowing the spinal to spin, in order to allow the travel limit mechanism to operate. At first I thought it was a spriped gear, but looking closer, the bearing on top, is totally messed up.
@garethbeale32757 ай бұрын
Do you know what the power coming in at the bottom of the cable that goes to the touchscreen should be, and which pins? It would be good to be able to determine if power is getting from the base/handrail to the touchscreen. Or is there an alternate way to power the screen externally? I see there is a USB-C socket higher up on the back of the screen, but I don't want to shoot even USB power into it without knowing what it's for.
@charlieaf927 ай бұрын
Unfortunately I don't know which pins supply the power from the smart card to the display. Is your issue that the display isn't powering on? The early Treads shipped with a USB cable that would plug into the back of the display. It was unneeded, but suggests that it is a valid way to power the display. You could always unplug the cable from the back of the display and check the pins (while powered on) for voltage. I would unplug the cable from the back of the display and then try the USB-C socket. Without knowing what type of wattage is required you may want to try to research that a bit.
@rosshenry51137 ай бұрын
Hey Charlie! I believe I’m having a similar, but not exact issue with my Peloton Tread +. I’ll be running along, usually a 30 min class. And then start my second class and a few minutes in the tread will stop. The speed on the screen will stay at whatever I have it on, the speed nob will blink and the only way to get the tread going again, is to unplug it and restart it. The tread will start going again, but usually stop a few more times before I’m able to finish another 30 minute class. I’ve been dealing with customer support for about 3 months now and zero help and zero follow up. I’m in Alaska so there isn’t a repair or replacement option for me. Also I bought the treadmill second hand about a year and a half ago. Any thoughts? Your videos were very helpful and I think it may be the speed knob? Or the board in the back? Waiting on my voltage meter to arrive. Thank you for all the help you provide!
@charlieaf927 ай бұрын
Hey Ross! Sorry to hear you're having trouble. Question - when it stops (but screen continues to indicate its moving) do you hear the motor running? I assume not but thought I'd verify. I'm a little surprised it still says the speed on the screen despite it not moving. Another question, when the belt is moving and you step off the tread do you receive the message about stats being paused and the belt turning off if you don't get back on?
@wmichaelf7 ай бұрын
Great video! Thanks. Here's a question if you're still checking this from time to time. My e95 is exhibiting the 'reverse resistance' issue. My question is, if I'm willing to live with the resistance/level being backwards, is there any issue? And is it affecting the performance at either end of the resistance settings?
@charlieaf927 ай бұрын
You're welcome, I'm glad it is useful. To answer your question - it has been years since I've taken the machine apart so I can't remember exactly how it all goes together. However I don't think there is any problem with leaving it slipped off other than the obvious (the resistance settings don't work as expected) and I also think you no longer get the full range of resistance options (the lightest settings won't be available no matter how much you try to adjust it). I could be wrong, but that's my understanding.
@hotheadcandles8 ай бұрын
Thank you for taking the time to put these Peloton Tread videos together. They are giving me hope that I might be able to solve an issue I'm having with my own Tread. Hoping you might be able to offer some tips or insight into the methodology I should use in diagnosing my issue. Without going into too depth, after owning my new Peloton Tread for 13 months (just one month past the warranty expiration), it started throwing an error code during the firmware update/calibration sequence. Mine is a Tread (not a Tread+), but I suspect there are similarities. Anyway, the firmware update would get to 4% complete, then freeze, and show an error code: OTA-800. Peloton sent me a new screen, saying the error indicated a touchscreen issue, but with the new screen I get the same symptoms, where firmware freezes at 4%, but with the new screen the code now reads: OTA-807. In both cases, the less in the speed/incline dials and the stop button all flashed red. Rebooting, factory reset, de-static power cycling... none of this has made any difference. Being that I'm one month out of warranty, any repair is on me to pay for. Being that (as you mentioned) Peloton has designated their machines non-serviceable, a repair will entail simply replacing one of three parts of the Tread; the touch screen, the rail, or the base. Based on the symptoms I describe above, how would you advise I approach this? I'm reasonably handy, and I do own a multimeter. Thanks in advance. - Will
@charlieaf928 ай бұрын
Greetings. You're welcome. It is hard to say what is wrong with the details you described. Have you asked Peloton what the new 807 error indicates? Getting stuck during the firmware update (based on my experience) has indicated a hardware fault. In my case it was a short in the speed knob. Does your Tread have a "smart card" at the back of the display where the various components (knobs, stop button/key, and display) all connect? One thought - if you used a major credit card to buy your Tread, there is a good chance you have an automatic extended warranty through your card issuer. I'd go that route if you have that option before you spend too much time and effort diagnosing and trying to fix it.
@jasonduncan53722 ай бұрын
I have the same model and the exact same issue. Were you able to solve the issue. Peloton wanted to send me a new base for $1000+ which I have refused so far.
@DeanCorse8 ай бұрын
Thank you for the very thorough repair. Great step by step explanation!
@nirmalaupadhyay55748 ай бұрын
my fridge water tube has white i did used a soft stick put in small hole to take white stuff now water is coming from one side and slow please help me water was coming good befor i used the brush in it
Пікірлер
This video is so informative. I’m on the fence about buying a used treadmill because it will need a new tread. Some how the person who owns it put a huge hole in it. If peloton is not helpful with purchasing supplies how would I go about getting a new tread to replace it. Any suggestions
I've found the Peloton parts department to be very helpful. If you call and ask to speak to parts you have a better chance to getting someone on the phone that can answer technical questions + give you information about replacement slats.
For this price point, this shouldn’t be an issue
You're not wrong.
Genius, thank you! For now I went for the easy fix, shoved resistance up to max and now its in the easiest zone and usable again 😊 Could I just keep this inverted resistance approach as a permanent fix?
:) If it works for you, I don't see why not! It's been a long time since I had the machine apart but, if I remember correctly, once the cable slips off there isn't enough movement to give you the full range of resistance. But, if it's working for you I don't see any harm in continuing to use it that way.
@@charlieaf92 Many thanks! I'll try this temp fix as long as it works, then I'll use the proper fix you've shared in this video.
An iguana got caught in the front part of the tread belt within inner part of the tread. How do you get access into the front inner part of the belt?
Wow... So you can remove the slats individually but accessing the back of them (from the bottom where it sags down) and using a small wrench. The front caps on each side also pull straight off to give a bit more access.
Excellent description and analysis!!! Thanks
Thank you thank you, awesome video and this took me about 30 careful minutes instead of the 10+ hours it has taken many others on their course of discovery to achieve the same result.
you didnt need to talk about anything, just show how to make it faster or not require pressure
any common issues why my tread is not turning on? I had to move it to my garage reassembled it and now it’s not firing up. I have it plugged into a non gfci outlet.
It's possible the outlet is on a GFCI circuit even if the outlet itself isn't GFCI. I'd check your breaker panel to see if any breakers are tripped + look around in the garage and see if there is a GFCI outlet that has tripped that is part of the same circuit. There is also a little breaker on the Tread itself, right next to where the power cord attaches. I'd make sure that hasn't popped.
You are a master man
Doing mine this weekend. Went to change the diff fluid and found out the boots are ripped.
The smiles and giggles says it all! I love it!!
Nice tutorial. It would be funny to find somoene who always leaves their door open...and lockpick it closed 😂
Worked for me, thank you so much!! Only cost me 25 bucks for the part
Awesome video, great research and very informative thank you much.
Thanks for that Was not sure I wanted to tackle this but you’ve simplified the processing
Excellent troubleshooting. Thorough explanation. Thank you for your effort, time and posting.
Great video and great job recreating the parts. I received mine the other day and followed the video. Works perfectly again!!
Charlie, amazing. I have the broken gear plus a broken actuator for the gear. Are you selling a kit that included the gear and actuator?
Worked nicely on a Jetta
Thanks for the thorough explanation, and God bless you!
Sounds great.
Worked great. Thanks!!!
Hi there. I sent you an email to your Gmail re: 3d models. Cheers.
Hey man. Know how to get firmware last 52%? Got a new monitor and now they want to send another one. Think it’s the board or the base. You know these well. Any help is appreciated!
Great video. I first tried replacing the saddle valve with a ball valve. That did nothing. Ordered the valve assembly, and had it installed and working in 20 minutes. Good job on the video, it was extremely helpful and thorough. The video saved me a lot of time and guesswork. Thanks!
I was looking to upgrade my 996, and im trying to decide weather is fister mod or cargraphic exhuast ? Sound really good tho !! Let me know what you think - Mahalos - Bubba
I've never heard the cargraphic one so I can't speak to it. But, I can say that Fister was awesome to deal with, and the sound was absolutely wonderful. Plus, since it is basically a stock exhaust system, it didn't have any negative impact on resale value of the car. If/when I purchase another 911 I wouldn't hesitate to go with a Fister exhaust again.
The spring that make the connection at the gray wire was my problem. Couldn’t close the circuit. I bent the spring and now my problem is fixed. Your continuity explanation of the gray wire led me to the spring. Thanks so much!!!
Hey Charles thank you so much for the video I was hoping you could help me out with an issue I am having with my tread meal (Not a Plus) my tread meal won’t go over 3mph without giving me the message of me being off the tread meal then behinds the count down to bring the tread meal to a pause but if I lower the tread meal to 2.9mph it goes away and continues to work fine. Any suggestions on what it may be?
Greetings. I'm not quite sure why this would be happening. With the Tread+ (not sure if the Tread is the same), I believe that the "off the tread" warning is triggered by the resistance the motor is seeing. Basically it measures belt speed compared to the power the motor is producing to check for "drag" caused by a user on the belt. I have heard that people under 100lb don't weigh enough to sufficiently trigger it. If you are of sufficient weight the only thing I could think of would be possibly that the belt is slipping under load and as a result the computer isn't seeing the motor slow down like it expects to.
Damn bro that’s slow..
Where is the part number?
It is much easier than this. After removing black and green parts, looking at back of lighter turn the lighter body from 12oclock to 11oclock . Counter clockwise just a bit. Push lighter body forward about 1/2 an inch. It will then be able to turn back to original orientation. If not you are not deep enough in or too far. It does all this nice and smooth. Once back in 12oclock position it will simply push the rest of the way out. No fiddling with the clear piece. No parts broken. Clear piece does have to spring release clips and slides out easily as well.
Having a problem sourcing the reset switch. I have no power in my peloton tread and I’m guessing that might be the issue. Where would I be able to find parts?
How much would you charge to fix my wifes drybar brand flat iron?
Help. My garage door pushes down against pavement when i press open, then pull back up two foot and stops there.. leaving a gap😢. If i press open again it will do the same thing pushes down against pavement then pull back up two foot n stops😢 The metal arm bended now😢
I'm still having a hard time with deadbolts
Incredible Video How do you check communication cable?
Thanks for the video, I didn't even think to check any of the wiring. When I wiggled the main harness, one of the wires was indeed broken. I did a quick twist of the ends followed by some shrink tubing. Sprayed deoxit on the contacts, straightened them out and now the adjusting screws work like they are supposed to. I'm hoping a new wiring harness is available online somewhere.
Thank you for this video -- I think I have this exact same problem with my Tread+. At 4:06, can you tell me what setting you turn your voltmeter to (I've never used one before)? Also, would that setting be any different if I were testing the harness at the Smartcard? Thanks.
I set it to check for continuity. If you do a search for "continuity setting volt meter" you will find some tutorials as well as a picture of what the continuity symbol will look like on your meter. Basically when in this setting, any connection between the two probes will produce an audible alarm. You can test it by touching them together first like I did in the video. You can check from the harness at the smart card - this will save time and had I known what I was looking for initially that is how I would have done it. Check both harnesses so that you can use the second one as a control to ensure that you get two different results. Hope this helps!
@@charlieaf92 Thx that helps a bunch. I actually just received the speed knob PCB and installed it since that was the last knob we used before the Tread went down. Unfortunately, it didn’t fix the issue (non-responsive knobs, normal touchscreen without error messages). My follow-up question is: is the PCB installation plug-and-play ie once installed the Tread+ should recognize it and just start working (if the PCB is the culprit)? Do I need to do anything else on the touchscreen? Thx!
@@khoatran613 Sorry to hear that didn't resolve it. To answer your question - yes it was plug and play. Once I replaced the knob, the software update completed and I no longer received the error. Were you able to test the pins for a short on both knobs? It is possible the other knob is the culprit. If you can describe the symptoms + the sequence of events that led up to them, I might be able to provide a bit more insight.
Just got a replacement base (within extended warranty). Old base seemed to have bearings seemed to be going bad, making noises at low speeds. The new base is worse than the original one. I know the tread is pretty noisy in general but this new one seems like it’s making extra noises lol the major problem is that the belt slips, while the brake is engaged. So, if you have the treaded on incline, and stand towards the top of the tread, it’ll send you down. My question is, do you think that the drive belt tension or the slat belt tension? Am I able to get the drive belt without removing all the slats like you showed towards the end of the video? Edit: I know that I am still with #Warranty and I’ve scheduled somebody to come look at the tread, but that’s not for another two or three weeks. This piece of machinery that I paid for and that I pay for subscription to use monthly is too expensive to just be sitting there
Wow that's super frustrating. To answer your first question I believe its the belt drive from the motor itself. The slat tread belt has cogs on it, so it shouldn't slip but could jump teeth if its too loose. A good way to check this is to put it at 0 incline and look under the machine. If it is dragging on the floor it is too loose. As far as your second question, you can remove individual slats with a small wrench. I haven't done it but I believe you can do it on the underside of the machine and then after removing a few rotate the belt around so the opening is where you need to access it. Hope this helps!
@@charlieaf92Thank you so much for continuing to answer questions here. You’re amazing 😊
Excellent video....step by step
Great video! Sent you an email, would like more info on your replacement parts. Thanks!
Great video. Like others, I opened dozens of videos showing you how to clean and allign the lens on the safety beam, which I knew wasn't the problem. I had a bad switch on the stop limit, which was a quick fix once I knew what to look for. Well done!
Awesome, I'm glad this helped you out!
@@charlieaf92Love Ur display board. Crimp connectors are a boon to society.
Great video! But I am perplexed by the comment you made regarding it being a good thing if you have no continuity with the roller circut. I have a tread+ and having a no comminication issue as well. But ours starred when a pillow got caught underneath and cut wires to the incline motor. That is fixed but now im getting no continuity between both the speed and incline knobs ans the smartboard. Any idea of where the break could be? Or is it possibly a simple case of a new smartboard?
Greetings - thanks! The wires from the knobs run straight through the arms of the machine to the smart card in the back - so your pillow incident wouldn't have damaged those particular wires. My memory is a bit fuzzy but basically my comments were about continuity (and more specifically no resistance - I think I misspoke) between the positive and ground pins in the ribbon cable. Basically my speed knob had shorted out and the smart card sensed this and put the machine in a "limp" mode so to speak.
I'm having the similar issue, with the same craftsman model, but mine turned out to be an upper bearing issue, not allowing the spinal to spin, in order to allow the travel limit mechanism to operate. At first I thought it was a spriped gear, but looking closer, the bearing on top, is totally messed up.
Do you know what the power coming in at the bottom of the cable that goes to the touchscreen should be, and which pins? It would be good to be able to determine if power is getting from the base/handrail to the touchscreen. Or is there an alternate way to power the screen externally? I see there is a USB-C socket higher up on the back of the screen, but I don't want to shoot even USB power into it without knowing what it's for.
Unfortunately I don't know which pins supply the power from the smart card to the display. Is your issue that the display isn't powering on? The early Treads shipped with a USB cable that would plug into the back of the display. It was unneeded, but suggests that it is a valid way to power the display. You could always unplug the cable from the back of the display and check the pins (while powered on) for voltage. I would unplug the cable from the back of the display and then try the USB-C socket. Without knowing what type of wattage is required you may want to try to research that a bit.
Hey Charlie! I believe I’m having a similar, but not exact issue with my Peloton Tread +. I’ll be running along, usually a 30 min class. And then start my second class and a few minutes in the tread will stop. The speed on the screen will stay at whatever I have it on, the speed nob will blink and the only way to get the tread going again, is to unplug it and restart it. The tread will start going again, but usually stop a few more times before I’m able to finish another 30 minute class. I’ve been dealing with customer support for about 3 months now and zero help and zero follow up. I’m in Alaska so there isn’t a repair or replacement option for me. Also I bought the treadmill second hand about a year and a half ago. Any thoughts? Your videos were very helpful and I think it may be the speed knob? Or the board in the back? Waiting on my voltage meter to arrive. Thank you for all the help you provide!
Hey Ross! Sorry to hear you're having trouble. Question - when it stops (but screen continues to indicate its moving) do you hear the motor running? I assume not but thought I'd verify. I'm a little surprised it still says the speed on the screen despite it not moving. Another question, when the belt is moving and you step off the tread do you receive the message about stats being paused and the belt turning off if you don't get back on?
Great video! Thanks. Here's a question if you're still checking this from time to time. My e95 is exhibiting the 'reverse resistance' issue. My question is, if I'm willing to live with the resistance/level being backwards, is there any issue? And is it affecting the performance at either end of the resistance settings?
You're welcome, I'm glad it is useful. To answer your question - it has been years since I've taken the machine apart so I can't remember exactly how it all goes together. However I don't think there is any problem with leaving it slipped off other than the obvious (the resistance settings don't work as expected) and I also think you no longer get the full range of resistance options (the lightest settings won't be available no matter how much you try to adjust it). I could be wrong, but that's my understanding.
Thank you for taking the time to put these Peloton Tread videos together. They are giving me hope that I might be able to solve an issue I'm having with my own Tread. Hoping you might be able to offer some tips or insight into the methodology I should use in diagnosing my issue. Without going into too depth, after owning my new Peloton Tread for 13 months (just one month past the warranty expiration), it started throwing an error code during the firmware update/calibration sequence. Mine is a Tread (not a Tread+), but I suspect there are similarities. Anyway, the firmware update would get to 4% complete, then freeze, and show an error code: OTA-800. Peloton sent me a new screen, saying the error indicated a touchscreen issue, but with the new screen I get the same symptoms, where firmware freezes at 4%, but with the new screen the code now reads: OTA-807. In both cases, the less in the speed/incline dials and the stop button all flashed red. Rebooting, factory reset, de-static power cycling... none of this has made any difference. Being that I'm one month out of warranty, any repair is on me to pay for. Being that (as you mentioned) Peloton has designated their machines non-serviceable, a repair will entail simply replacing one of three parts of the Tread; the touch screen, the rail, or the base. Based on the symptoms I describe above, how would you advise I approach this? I'm reasonably handy, and I do own a multimeter. Thanks in advance. - Will
Greetings. You're welcome. It is hard to say what is wrong with the details you described. Have you asked Peloton what the new 807 error indicates? Getting stuck during the firmware update (based on my experience) has indicated a hardware fault. In my case it was a short in the speed knob. Does your Tread have a "smart card" at the back of the display where the various components (knobs, stop button/key, and display) all connect? One thought - if you used a major credit card to buy your Tread, there is a good chance you have an automatic extended warranty through your card issuer. I'd go that route if you have that option before you spend too much time and effort diagnosing and trying to fix it.
I have the same model and the exact same issue. Were you able to solve the issue. Peloton wanted to send me a new base for $1000+ which I have refused so far.
Thank you for the very thorough repair. Great step by step explanation!
my fridge water tube has white i did used a soft stick put in small hole to take white stuff now water is coming from one side and slow please help me water was coming good befor i used the brush in it