Thanks it's the only DIY video for pool step blisters that makes repair attempts "doable" for most people.
@dennispoolspaservicetdcigl7463 ай бұрын
I'm working on a thermoplastic step, what a nightmare. Thermoplastic is like wrapping fiberglass with a white plastic jug. Do not grind. Good video, nice job.
@RhondaAdams0074 ай бұрын
Question We just had our pool resurfaced today and we are noticing a lot of "blisters".. they were never there before. Only after the resurfacing. Is that normal??
@simplediy37274 ай бұрын
Not sure what kind of resurfacing you had done, but I'd say any kind of blister are not normal.
@paulmarcuzzo40466 ай бұрын
What type of fuel does it use?
@simplediy37276 ай бұрын
The definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.
@JosephBrown-we6zg9 ай бұрын
great video
@FountainGuru10 ай бұрын
thank you for sharing your project. I am repairing some cracked, fiberglass steps, which are basically the same kind of steps of what you had there. Mine are blue. What are you happy with the product? I’m going to fiberglass reinforced the steps and then was going to do some kind of gel coat until I saw your paste. I’m gonna have to add Blue to it. Any suggestions?
@simplediy372710 ай бұрын
yeah, contact Multi-Tech directly by phone and ask them for advice. I know they make different colors, which is more common for hot tubs. I just re did my steps this year, and I bought a new batch. It still took 30 drops. I got a little better results this time. I ground back a little further made sure I got rid of the debonded material. I'm not sure how strong it will be if you have structural cracks, this is really just a hole filler.
@jamesfrench94111 ай бұрын
I own one but cant find parts for them anywhere! Do you know where I can find a globe and gaskets?! Koehler model 289-1A.
@alexvedrover3603 Жыл бұрын
Thanks, will give it a try before spending $5K on new steps!
@simplediy3727 Жыл бұрын
I just reworked my steps this yesterday, a couple of hints. Don't apply it too thick, it'll shrink and crack. If it's a deep hole it'll take two or three applications. The cure time at 22 drops is about 1 hr, whereas 30 drops is about 20-30 minutes, so because of the multiple layers I went back to using 30 drops. I was able to powerwash my steps in just 24hrs. Be prepared, this stuff is messy. You're going to get single use out of every mixing cup, stick, putty knife and set of gloves. I pretty much did all my finish work with 100 grit sandpaper, anything smaller is too much work. Good luck
@thewatcher486 Жыл бұрын
Thank you. Saving me money sir.
@simplediy3727 Жыл бұрын
This year I ordered some more paste and the tech told me, the correct mix is 22 drops/oz. So this year I'll test a batch at that mix and see how it goes.
@simplediy3727 Жыл бұрын
22 drops/oz is too slow. Cure time is about an hour, I went back to 30 drops, cure time was about 20-30 minutes.
@treyhaberman Жыл бұрын
Nice video
@redneckbird2121 Жыл бұрын
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Just completed repair of my pool step blisters. I’m assuming this product requires a 24 hr cure time but cannot find much technical data on it. Your video was VERY helpful!
@simplediy3727 Жыл бұрын
It hardens in about 5 minutes, so 24 hrs should be all it needs. That's just my opinion though, it doesn't come with any info. This year I ordered some more paste and the tech told me, the correct mix is 22 drops/oz. So this year I'll test a batch at that mix and see how it goes.
@simplediy3727 Жыл бұрын
I just pressure washed my steps after just 24 hrs, no problems. Also 22 drops/oz is too slow. Cure time is about an hour, I went back to 30 drops, cure time was about 20-30 minutes.
@marchaven7105 Жыл бұрын
Is there anywhere to get parts for these? I have one that the Stryker doesn't work.
@ImminentThreatDefense Жыл бұрын
Not that I'm aware of they're out of production. If you striker doesn't work, is it just a missing flint? Those can be bought.
@jeepingeo2 жыл бұрын
Youre the first one I've seen that had the same problem as me...The tank that was in my 77 CJ5 was actually, or supposedly, for 1975 and earlier CJs. It's identical to your old one. Mine has the same long filler neck...Cant help but wonder if somewhere, someone got part #s and years mixed up.
@benjaminadolfofloresavila4928 Жыл бұрын
Please... I the same answer ...
@simplediy3727 Жыл бұрын
@@benjaminadolfofloresavila4928 Sorry, I don't know why it is, I just know this is what I found out.
@USAFreedom4Ever2 жыл бұрын
is it possible to drain fiberglass pool w/out bracing? have heard if originally filled with water when adding backfill with 97% compacted stone, and drain line under pool to outside so not water under, it can be done w/out bulging of walls.
@simplediy37272 жыл бұрын
Draining any pool is tricky. Depending on the amount of ground water you can damage an empty pool because it will attempt to float above the ground water. Best to talk with someone who knows more about it than me.
@USAFreedom4Ever2 жыл бұрын
@@simplediy3727 Absolutely no crown or water surrounded by drainable stone to drain tile out to open air the only question would be if some of the backfill might fall when the pool walls relax from not having water
@MikeTheJeepster2 жыл бұрын
Nice video , thanks !
@marklammas24652 жыл бұрын
Jim Humphrey... Appropriate name. The original safety lamp was the almost identical Davy Safety Lamp, invented by Humphrey Davy in the 19th century. It looked like he had one on the table at the beginning of the video. I'm born and grew up in County Durham, a mining area in the UK, and I remember the final miners' strike in the 80's. I now live in Scotland.
@sargetester992 жыл бұрын
If you unscrew the oil reservoir whilst it still lit by fire...will it then still be lit and out of the glass?
@ImminentThreatDefense2 жыл бұрын
Yes the lamp works without the upper assembly. The upper assembly is what makes it explosion proof.
@kadisjames82782 жыл бұрын
Good video. Very helpful
@MrOregonite2 жыл бұрын
Get that antique piano stool back in the house where it belongs. Just sayin'. 😨🎹. Good video!!
@ImminentThreatDefense2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, definitely had to sneak that one past the wife.
@graysonworkman87382 жыл бұрын
Very informative.
@vintasticcothevintasticcom74502 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the informative video. Do you know where I can purchase parts? I need a fount to restore a Kohler unit (for display).
@ImminentThreatDefense2 жыл бұрын
Sorry, I don't know of any parts suppliers for any of the flame safety lamps. You'll have to find ones that were parted out then sold on line. However, since it's very difficult for the novice to tell the difference in various models, it will be challenging to find the right parts. If you're missing the Font from a Koehler (note the spelling of both) it's going to be really tricky. Good luck, thanks for watching.
@JX6G3 жыл бұрын
What kind of fuel do you guys use for this lamp?
@ImminentThreatDefense3 жыл бұрын
The definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.
@JX6G3 жыл бұрын
@@ImminentThreatDefense Thank you so much for the reply! OK, i'll use my Coleman white gasoline.
@djjohnyt55073 жыл бұрын
Witch exactly did you buy?
@jimh24273 жыл бұрын
see the footnote at 3:33 Multitechproducts.com
@ZazuYen3 жыл бұрын
I bought a fairly old one of these a decade or so ago that was pretty battered but still intact, the only issue is the fuel port isn't flathead, it has two shallow round indentions in it that look like they need a special key. I can't for the life of me get the fuel port to unscrew using makeshift keys for that port. I'd like to get it lit some day but without being able to put fuel in it I don't see that happening.
@ImminentThreatDefense2 жыл бұрын
Try using a pair of snap ring pliers.
@ZazuYen2 жыл бұрын
@@ImminentThreatDefense Interesting, I'll give it a try.
@sujan91323 жыл бұрын
Best👍
@bonepl83 жыл бұрын
Thanks you!
@theelitist79083 жыл бұрын
Link to where you bought the poly paste? Thanks
@ImminentThreatDefense3 жыл бұрын
see the footnote at 3:33 Multitechproducts.com
@user-do4dx7xt6x3 жыл бұрын
will you give me it?
@peterduquette92354 жыл бұрын
If I wish to use mine camping, what would be recommend as a modern replacement for fuel?
@ImminentThreatDefense4 жыл бұрын
I think you're going to be disappointed by the amount of light you'll get out of these lamps. However, the definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.
@rvrskng4 жыл бұрын
Hey, you shouldn't be putting grease between the two drive gears. That will cause slipping while using the transmission.
@ImminentThreatDefense4 жыл бұрын
That's a lithium grease, it's very light weight. I've seen it commonly used on small gears (particularly plastic ones). However, I wasn't trying to put the grease on the teeth but on the outside edge of the gear where it rubs against the inside of the bevel gear). I tried machine oil on this application previously and it disperses too quickly and the squeak returns. I got much better results from the lithium. Heavier greases, especially when mixed with dirt, can pack in the gear splines and cause poor tooth engagement and slipping like you describe. I haven't experienced any gear slippage as a result of using the lithium. But machine oil works as well, just doesn't last as long. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching.
@rvrskng4 жыл бұрын
@@ImminentThreatDefense Oh, okay, that's pretty cool! I might have to try that myself now!
@spotydog4 жыл бұрын
I would also be interested in learning how to disassemble the bottom section to replace the wick and repair / replace the striker assemble if you know how.
@phatchurch76964 жыл бұрын
How do you install a new flint and wick?
@simplediy37274 жыл бұрын
At 3:08 I point to a small screw. Underneath the screw is a spring that holds the flint against the striker. Remove the screw and spring, insert new flint, then spring and screw. I've never replaced a wick but I think the only way is to insert it from the top and wind it in for its entire length.
@paulmarcuzzo40466 ай бұрын
Thank you, I am also mining engineer and don't plan on taking this in a hazardous area, but have it in our tiki bar along with my hard hat. Like to be able to demonstrate it as you don't see too many of these in south Florida! 😅
Пікірлер
Thanks it's the only DIY video for pool step blisters that makes repair attempts "doable" for most people.
I'm working on a thermoplastic step, what a nightmare. Thermoplastic is like wrapping fiberglass with a white plastic jug. Do not grind. Good video, nice job.
Question We just had our pool resurfaced today and we are noticing a lot of "blisters".. they were never there before. Only after the resurfacing. Is that normal??
Not sure what kind of resurfacing you had done, but I'd say any kind of blister are not normal.
What type of fuel does it use?
The definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.
great video
thank you for sharing your project. I am repairing some cracked, fiberglass steps, which are basically the same kind of steps of what you had there. Mine are blue. What are you happy with the product? I’m going to fiberglass reinforced the steps and then was going to do some kind of gel coat until I saw your paste. I’m gonna have to add Blue to it. Any suggestions?
yeah, contact Multi-Tech directly by phone and ask them for advice. I know they make different colors, which is more common for hot tubs. I just re did my steps this year, and I bought a new batch. It still took 30 drops. I got a little better results this time. I ground back a little further made sure I got rid of the debonded material. I'm not sure how strong it will be if you have structural cracks, this is really just a hole filler.
I own one but cant find parts for them anywhere! Do you know where I can find a globe and gaskets?! Koehler model 289-1A.
Thanks, will give it a try before spending $5K on new steps!
I just reworked my steps this yesterday, a couple of hints. Don't apply it too thick, it'll shrink and crack. If it's a deep hole it'll take two or three applications. The cure time at 22 drops is about 1 hr, whereas 30 drops is about 20-30 minutes, so because of the multiple layers I went back to using 30 drops. I was able to powerwash my steps in just 24hrs. Be prepared, this stuff is messy. You're going to get single use out of every mixing cup, stick, putty knife and set of gloves. I pretty much did all my finish work with 100 grit sandpaper, anything smaller is too much work. Good luck
Thank you. Saving me money sir.
This year I ordered some more paste and the tech told me, the correct mix is 22 drops/oz. So this year I'll test a batch at that mix and see how it goes.
22 drops/oz is too slow. Cure time is about an hour, I went back to 30 drops, cure time was about 20-30 minutes.
Nice video
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Just completed repair of my pool step blisters. I’m assuming this product requires a 24 hr cure time but cannot find much technical data on it. Your video was VERY helpful!
It hardens in about 5 minutes, so 24 hrs should be all it needs. That's just my opinion though, it doesn't come with any info. This year I ordered some more paste and the tech told me, the correct mix is 22 drops/oz. So this year I'll test a batch at that mix and see how it goes.
I just pressure washed my steps after just 24 hrs, no problems. Also 22 drops/oz is too slow. Cure time is about an hour, I went back to 30 drops, cure time was about 20-30 minutes.
Is there anywhere to get parts for these? I have one that the Stryker doesn't work.
Not that I'm aware of they're out of production. If you striker doesn't work, is it just a missing flint? Those can be bought.
Youre the first one I've seen that had the same problem as me...The tank that was in my 77 CJ5 was actually, or supposedly, for 1975 and earlier CJs. It's identical to your old one. Mine has the same long filler neck...Cant help but wonder if somewhere, someone got part #s and years mixed up.
Please... I the same answer ...
@@benjaminadolfofloresavila4928 Sorry, I don't know why it is, I just know this is what I found out.
is it possible to drain fiberglass pool w/out bracing? have heard if originally filled with water when adding backfill with 97% compacted stone, and drain line under pool to outside so not water under, it can be done w/out bulging of walls.
Draining any pool is tricky. Depending on the amount of ground water you can damage an empty pool because it will attempt to float above the ground water. Best to talk with someone who knows more about it than me.
@@simplediy3727 Absolutely no crown or water surrounded by drainable stone to drain tile out to open air the only question would be if some of the backfill might fall when the pool walls relax from not having water
Nice video , thanks !
Jim Humphrey... Appropriate name. The original safety lamp was the almost identical Davy Safety Lamp, invented by Humphrey Davy in the 19th century. It looked like he had one on the table at the beginning of the video. I'm born and grew up in County Durham, a mining area in the UK, and I remember the final miners' strike in the 80's. I now live in Scotland.
If you unscrew the oil reservoir whilst it still lit by fire...will it then still be lit and out of the glass?
Yes the lamp works without the upper assembly. The upper assembly is what makes it explosion proof.
Good video. Very helpful
Get that antique piano stool back in the house where it belongs. Just sayin'. 😨🎹. Good video!!
Yeah, definitely had to sneak that one past the wife.
Very informative.
Thanks for the informative video. Do you know where I can purchase parts? I need a fount to restore a Kohler unit (for display).
Sorry, I don't know of any parts suppliers for any of the flame safety lamps. You'll have to find ones that were parted out then sold on line. However, since it's very difficult for the novice to tell the difference in various models, it will be challenging to find the right parts. If you're missing the Font from a Koehler (note the spelling of both) it's going to be really tricky. Good luck, thanks for watching.
What kind of fuel do you guys use for this lamp?
The definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.
@@ImminentThreatDefense Thank you so much for the reply! OK, i'll use my Coleman white gasoline.
Witch exactly did you buy?
see the footnote at 3:33 Multitechproducts.com
I bought a fairly old one of these a decade or so ago that was pretty battered but still intact, the only issue is the fuel port isn't flathead, it has two shallow round indentions in it that look like they need a special key. I can't for the life of me get the fuel port to unscrew using makeshift keys for that port. I'd like to get it lit some day but without being able to put fuel in it I don't see that happening.
Try using a pair of snap ring pliers.
@@ImminentThreatDefense Interesting, I'll give it a try.
Best👍
Thanks you!
Link to where you bought the poly paste? Thanks
see the footnote at 3:33 Multitechproducts.com
will you give me it?
If I wish to use mine camping, what would be recommend as a modern replacement for fuel?
I think you're going to be disappointed by the amount of light you'll get out of these lamps. However, the definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.
Hey, you shouldn't be putting grease between the two drive gears. That will cause slipping while using the transmission.
That's a lithium grease, it's very light weight. I've seen it commonly used on small gears (particularly plastic ones). However, I wasn't trying to put the grease on the teeth but on the outside edge of the gear where it rubs against the inside of the bevel gear). I tried machine oil on this application previously and it disperses too quickly and the squeak returns. I got much better results from the lithium. Heavier greases, especially when mixed with dirt, can pack in the gear splines and cause poor tooth engagement and slipping like you describe. I haven't experienced any gear slippage as a result of using the lithium. But machine oil works as well, just doesn't last as long. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching.
@@ImminentThreatDefense Oh, okay, that's pretty cool! I might have to try that myself now!
I would also be interested in learning how to disassemble the bottom section to replace the wick and repair / replace the striker assemble if you know how.
How do you install a new flint and wick?
At 3:08 I point to a small screw. Underneath the screw is a spring that holds the flint against the striker. Remove the screw and spring, insert new flint, then spring and screw. I've never replaced a wick but I think the only way is to insert it from the top and wind it in for its entire length.
Thank you, I am also mining engineer and don't plan on taking this in a hazardous area, but have it in our tiki bar along with my hard hat. Like to be able to demonstrate it as you don't see too many of these in south Florida! 😅