In reference to cnc drilling cycle time frame 8 minutes 02 seconds and beyond the drill chuck is not concentric causing the drill to act more like a boring bar than a drill. I recommend a small precision chuck may solve the problem.
@colinmaceke747425 күн бұрын
That’s why I use an undersized bit.
@robertburns241525 күн бұрын
Sometimes with long use the chip will get caught underneath one of the jaws of the chuck as a result will push the drill bit off center line of the chuck all you may need is a thorough cleaning of the chuck or maybe even disassembly to make sure it's clean. If this does not do the trick rip a piece of paper 1/4 inch wide by 4 inches long fold a piece of paper in half so that it is only 1/8 of an inch wide wrap it around the drill bit then position the drill bit so that the piece of paper catches the very end of the drill chuck jaws. Tighten the drill chuck at all three stations until each station is snug then check for concentricity this should fix your problem PS let me know if this works for you
@DavidBailey-ts2isАй бұрын
A very interesting and practical video. I have had very similar problems with the wooden wheel clocks that I design and make. I suspect that the meshing on the first pinion must be very accurate with the pivot distances within about 1/100 inch. With the heavy drive weights, such as those used for 8-clocks, the pivots are forced apart to the outer extremities of the pivot holes thus making the meshing less precise. Therefore, I use minimal side-shake for the great wheel arbor and the arbor carrying the first pinion. Maybe as the pivot holes wear very slightly meshing becomes more problematic. Can you check on your computer how much the pivot distances can widen before the meshing jams?
@colinmaceke747425 күн бұрын
Sorry. I really should get round to answering questions. The clock belongs to my daughter and is still temperamental . I’m fed up with working on it! I should make her another really but there seem to be so many other things to make and now do I buy the upgrade to,vcarve pro to tryout carving?
@Forest-iv5vmАй бұрын
I calculated the pendulum length as being just under 202cm based on a rough timing of the ticks giving me an average period of 2.85 seconds.
@RB-yq7qvАй бұрын
Its great to see you in the workshop building models
@colinmaceke7474Ай бұрын
A friend has looked up local archives and found he is listed in the 1901 census as living in Winterbourne aged 77 and as a clockmaker. Under the word Winterbourne there is a date but very crudely stamped in with 2 very small sizes of punch. 1878. I find it hard to believe that this was done when the modification was so well made.
@Forest-iv5vmАй бұрын
You should look at some of the 1870s watches from British watchmakers, and you’ll see the crafting of a clock sized anchor escapement is only a challenge of raw material not a problem of skill.
@KevinWoodsWorkshop2 ай бұрын
Interesting clock Colin, I was surprised how slow the pendulum was swinging.
@colinmaceke74742 ай бұрын
The pit was very narrow and only just wide enough to cater for the swing. So hard to estimate its length. I could just see the bob was a cylindrical lump of iron. There was a device on the rod side for adjustment which I should have shown. I suppose it’s possible to get an idea of its length from the timing of the swing.
@RB-yq7qv4 ай бұрын
Hi Collin A man of your skills I believe should be able to complete the smaller model, for full steam operation. Yes the larger model will be easier but great costs to complete. Remember their is a large community you can call to assist if needed. Will be great to view your progress.
@colinmaceke74744 ай бұрын
Many thanks!
@union3104 ай бұрын
Good to see you back. Ring the British horological institute
@jasonmauer41225 ай бұрын
Lovely to see this type of work. My grandfather and father were both horologists and seeing this work being done brings joy to me. Thanks for sharing these very well edited videos and your skills for the younger generation like me to admire and learn from!
@michaelgeorge14695 ай бұрын
I know this is a old video but what a beautiful clock. I recently restored a William Webb skeleton Fusee clock like yours. It's on my channel and like to see what you think.
@union3105 ай бұрын
Sounds to me as though it just needed bedding in. The extra leverage giving it what was required.
@union3105 ай бұрын
When you set the holes for the shafts, did you use a depthing tool or just from measurements?
@colinmaceke747425 күн бұрын
Depthing tool which i made . See other video.
@union3105 ай бұрын
Only just found your channel, well done Sir.
@union3105 ай бұрын
Nice video Sir, well done.
@TheGreatTimSheridan8 ай бұрын
Maybe you should try making some Lignumvitae bushings. Those wood bushings are supposed to last a really long time. There's a Harrison clock running in a barn that's a couple hundred years old.
@tmcreativity_houston8 ай бұрын
Awesome clock! Thanks for sharing this. Hopefully, my John Wilding clock will be done next year. You are 40 years ahead of me. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.
@colindrakes46078 ай бұрын
I think thats an excellent tool, reasonably simple, but totally fit for purpose. I could do with one of a similar size, so have been looking at a few different designs, and yours looks like one I'd like to have a go at making. Good video, thanks for making it available.
@TheGreatTimSheridan8 ай бұрын
Don't give up that balance wheel has about a dozen screws that can be advanced outward. In fact you might even screw on a few bits of extra metal. That oughta slow it down.
@TheGreatTimSheridan8 ай бұрын
How about spray silicon lubricant?
@colinmaceke74748 ай бұрын
Well I tried a bit of silicon oil in a few strategic places which soaked in of course and I did manage to get it to tick for 13 times! But I’ve left it for now. At least the lingering smell of plywood has gone. However, it has got me working on a design which I hope to make in brass. Maybe I’ll succeed.
@TheGreatTimSheridan8 ай бұрын
You may try to find some silicon lubricant for the balance staff of the 3-D printed Turbion. I'm convinced it will work.
@TheGreatTimSheridan8 ай бұрын
it looks like the 3-D printed Turbion is sticking when the roller jewel meets the pallet fork. I wonder if there's extra material on the jewel preventing it from entering the fork smoothly, or possibly the fork is touching the roller table. It might be necessary to polish the pallet Jules. But I think it's diagnosable somehow.
@colinmaceke74748 ай бұрын
You might well be right. To me, making anything mechanical in plastic is too crude. I'm more used to CNC in metal! I did get it to go for a few ticks, but one side was not quite true.
@oldfarthacks9 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video Colin. I have a job much like this coming up, the wife and I bought a chain driven grandfather's clock 40 odd years ago and it no longer runs properly. I suspect that I need to do the whole strip it down to the last bit, but that clock with the chimes has a whole lot more bits. I am almost tempted to bury a microprocessor system in it and use that to actually run the clock, with the falling weights providing the electrical power.
@colinmaceke74748 ай бұрын
Not sure what to think about that! The size of the bits in such a clock are quite large, so careful separation when stripping would make re-assembling easier. Get the going train working first, then start on the strike. Why not have a go at making it work and if that fails, go with your solution?
@oldfarthacks9 ай бұрын
Happy birthday Colin.
@modellingmark9 ай бұрын
Lovely to see an old locomotive given a new lease of life. Thanks for showing us how you restored her.
@paulfisher11609 ай бұрын
Happy 90th Birthday 💪 Keep up the awesome work and all the best
@oliversmets92119 ай бұрын
Happy birthday! Interested in your DeWinton drawings, I’m about halfway through doing my own, would be good to compare
@KevinWoodsWorkshop9 ай бұрын
Happy 90th birthday Colin.
@davidbawden656710 ай бұрын
I could see the laser dot, it was a fraction under your printed scale! The laser needs to come up 4-5mm for you to see it...
@542010 ай бұрын
Making a saxophone wood mouthpiece is very accurate. Thank you for your efforts. I'm also a saxophone mouthpiece handmade sculptor.
@mbustube12 ай бұрын
I would love to get in contact with you. I play on a 1930s Buescher MP. It's scary playing on a MP that can't be replaced. I have a drawer full of them that don't play because of the facing, but when I've tried having them refaced it never works. It doesn't make sense to me that removing material from one part of the MP wouldn't affect everything else. The answer would be to make an exact copy. I've tried to find somebody to do a 3D copy, with no luck. Not sure how they would work anyway. Such a lightweight material. Any suggestions would be so appreciated!
@oldfarthacks10 ай бұрын
Amazing how fast the pickle bath works. A nice engine you have there.
@oldfarthacks10 ай бұрын
As we get older, more and bigger is the key. At my age, I really need this to be 6 feet tall and at 20 feet. Perhaps I should build a bracket that aims the laser at the ceiling at say a 45 degree angle and then mount a scale up there.
@roseroserose58810 ай бұрын
A belated happy birthday, Colin, and I'm sorry to hear you had to sell the project on. Hopefully the new owners will be able to continue the level of care and detail you've given it. I've been watching this series today after discovering I wouldn't be able to do the work I'd planned for mine and have been learning a lot. Especially about not trusting drawings!
@roseroserose58810 ай бұрын
I wonder if the cutouts in the end caps were there just to save cost - at this scale it wouldn't make a difference but i imagine if you were casting the full size ones you could save quite a lot of material doing so, especially if you're making hundreds!
@colinmaceke747410 ай бұрын
You’re probably right. After all, their frames made in sections must have again been value for money.
@oldfarthacks11 ай бұрын
Quite a bit of fun. Soon all you will have left to do is the simple bit, the boiler.
@colinmaceke747411 ай бұрын
Last week I had my 90th birthday so I’m a bit restricted in what I can do. Regrettably, I sold it on to a couple of enthusiasts. Thanks for your comments and interest. Best regards.
@oldfarthacks11 ай бұрын
The grub screw should be more than enough.
@oldfarthacks11 ай бұрын
The amount of precision needed is staggering. You are doing quite well.
@oldfarthacks11 ай бұрын
It's a pity that the foundry was not good for you. That is sad.
@colinmaceke747411 ай бұрын
Such a long time ago! Later, I found that they were using old railway sleeper footings which were over a hundred years old and of unknown contents.
@oldfarthacks11 ай бұрын
I find it interesting that you are feeding away from the headstock. I do like the cutting out of the steam passages in the sleeve, it does really make good sense.
@oldfarthacks11 ай бұрын
Very nice
@goboyz8016 Жыл бұрын
WOW you are amazing. That is a work of art. Love it.
@colinmaceke747410 ай бұрын
Thank you very much!
@user-eq7xz8mc7j Жыл бұрын
У ТЕБЯ СВЕРЛА ПРОВОРАЧИВАЮТСЯ . ХОРОШИЙ МАСТЕР ТАКОГО СЕБЕ НЕ ПОЗВОЛЯЕТ .
@colinmaceke7474 Жыл бұрын
Try to be constructive. Advice is always welcome.
@colinmaceke7474 Жыл бұрын
I assume you meant endmill when you said drill. So occasionally the morse taper slips because I didn’t ram it home hard enough. So that makes me human not a bad master!
@russelldold4827 Жыл бұрын
I speak under correction, but I believe the reason pivot steel comes in "random sizes" is because it's made from piano wire and therefore would be sized according to the dictates of the relevant musical notes.
@juliemulie1805 Жыл бұрын
You and your friend are correct, instruments carry much of their perceived value on name recognition (aka snob appeal) and with whom they are associated. Country of production and component part composition affect value. Manufacturers still make instrument lines for specific price points, even Buffet has student plastic options. Having a quality older wooden clarinet reconditioned just cost me over $600, and it was in good shape to start. I want to make one of these lamps, but it will be done with a low value plastic instrument, like we would keep for outdoor winter marching band...lots of them available.
@colinmaceke7474 Жыл бұрын
Good luck with that and thank you for your comment.
@markshomeengineering5243 Жыл бұрын
Hi Colin, what a fascinating video. Thank you for taking the time to make it and share it. 👍 Mark
@colinmaceke747410 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it
@RB-yq7qv Жыл бұрын
Hi Collin. I think you have great idea and it's simple.
@markshomeengineering5243 Жыл бұрын
Hi Colin, one of your videos just popped into my feed. I'll be playihng catch up on this little series. Cheers Mark
@colinmaceke7474 Жыл бұрын
Sorry Mark, but I’m afraid I stopped at number 17. Age and infirmity to blame! I have sold it on and the two who collected it would consider following on. I hope so. However enjoy all my other videos. Good luck.
@markshomeengineering5243 Жыл бұрын
@@colinmaceke7474 that is such a shame Colin. I'll still enjoy the videos that you have posted. All the best, Mark
Пікірлер
Mesmerising
Thanks for the video Colin, nice to see.
Nice to see another video
Very interesting, thank you
In reference to cnc drilling cycle time frame 8 minutes 02 seconds and beyond the drill chuck is not concentric causing the drill to act more like a boring bar than a drill. I recommend a small precision chuck may solve the problem.
That’s why I use an undersized bit.
Sometimes with long use the chip will get caught underneath one of the jaws of the chuck as a result will push the drill bit off center line of the chuck all you may need is a thorough cleaning of the chuck or maybe even disassembly to make sure it's clean. If this does not do the trick rip a piece of paper 1/4 inch wide by 4 inches long fold a piece of paper in half so that it is only 1/8 of an inch wide wrap it around the drill bit then position the drill bit so that the piece of paper catches the very end of the drill chuck jaws. Tighten the drill chuck at all three stations until each station is snug then check for concentricity this should fix your problem PS let me know if this works for you
A very interesting and practical video. I have had very similar problems with the wooden wheel clocks that I design and make. I suspect that the meshing on the first pinion must be very accurate with the pivot distances within about 1/100 inch. With the heavy drive weights, such as those used for 8-clocks, the pivots are forced apart to the outer extremities of the pivot holes thus making the meshing less precise. Therefore, I use minimal side-shake for the great wheel arbor and the arbor carrying the first pinion. Maybe as the pivot holes wear very slightly meshing becomes more problematic. Can you check on your computer how much the pivot distances can widen before the meshing jams?
Sorry. I really should get round to answering questions. The clock belongs to my daughter and is still temperamental . I’m fed up with working on it! I should make her another really but there seem to be so many other things to make and now do I buy the upgrade to,vcarve pro to tryout carving?
I calculated the pendulum length as being just under 202cm based on a rough timing of the ticks giving me an average period of 2.85 seconds.
Its great to see you in the workshop building models
A friend has looked up local archives and found he is listed in the 1901 census as living in Winterbourne aged 77 and as a clockmaker. Under the word Winterbourne there is a date but very crudely stamped in with 2 very small sizes of punch. 1878. I find it hard to believe that this was done when the modification was so well made.
You should look at some of the 1870s watches from British watchmakers, and you’ll see the crafting of a clock sized anchor escapement is only a challenge of raw material not a problem of skill.
Interesting clock Colin, I was surprised how slow the pendulum was swinging.
The pit was very narrow and only just wide enough to cater for the swing. So hard to estimate its length. I could just see the bob was a cylindrical lump of iron. There was a device on the rod side for adjustment which I should have shown. I suppose it’s possible to get an idea of its length from the timing of the swing.
Hi Collin A man of your skills I believe should be able to complete the smaller model, for full steam operation. Yes the larger model will be easier but great costs to complete. Remember their is a large community you can call to assist if needed. Will be great to view your progress.
Many thanks!
Good to see you back. Ring the British horological institute
Lovely to see this type of work. My grandfather and father were both horologists and seeing this work being done brings joy to me. Thanks for sharing these very well edited videos and your skills for the younger generation like me to admire and learn from!
I know this is a old video but what a beautiful clock. I recently restored a William Webb skeleton Fusee clock like yours. It's on my channel and like to see what you think.
Sounds to me as though it just needed bedding in. The extra leverage giving it what was required.
When you set the holes for the shafts, did you use a depthing tool or just from measurements?
Depthing tool which i made . See other video.
Only just found your channel, well done Sir.
Nice video Sir, well done.
Maybe you should try making some Lignumvitae bushings. Those wood bushings are supposed to last a really long time. There's a Harrison clock running in a barn that's a couple hundred years old.
Awesome clock! Thanks for sharing this. Hopefully, my John Wilding clock will be done next year. You are 40 years ahead of me. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.
I think thats an excellent tool, reasonably simple, but totally fit for purpose. I could do with one of a similar size, so have been looking at a few different designs, and yours looks like one I'd like to have a go at making. Good video, thanks for making it available.
Don't give up that balance wheel has about a dozen screws that can be advanced outward. In fact you might even screw on a few bits of extra metal. That oughta slow it down.
How about spray silicon lubricant?
Well I tried a bit of silicon oil in a few strategic places which soaked in of course and I did manage to get it to tick for 13 times! But I’ve left it for now. At least the lingering smell of plywood has gone. However, it has got me working on a design which I hope to make in brass. Maybe I’ll succeed.
You may try to find some silicon lubricant for the balance staff of the 3-D printed Turbion. I'm convinced it will work.
it looks like the 3-D printed Turbion is sticking when the roller jewel meets the pallet fork. I wonder if there's extra material on the jewel preventing it from entering the fork smoothly, or possibly the fork is touching the roller table. It might be necessary to polish the pallet Jules. But I think it's diagnosable somehow.
You might well be right. To me, making anything mechanical in plastic is too crude. I'm more used to CNC in metal! I did get it to go for a few ticks, but one side was not quite true.
Thanks for the video Colin. I have a job much like this coming up, the wife and I bought a chain driven grandfather's clock 40 odd years ago and it no longer runs properly. I suspect that I need to do the whole strip it down to the last bit, but that clock with the chimes has a whole lot more bits. I am almost tempted to bury a microprocessor system in it and use that to actually run the clock, with the falling weights providing the electrical power.
Not sure what to think about that! The size of the bits in such a clock are quite large, so careful separation when stripping would make re-assembling easier. Get the going train working first, then start on the strike. Why not have a go at making it work and if that fails, go with your solution?
Happy birthday Colin.
Lovely to see an old locomotive given a new lease of life. Thanks for showing us how you restored her.
Happy 90th Birthday 💪 Keep up the awesome work and all the best
Happy birthday! Interested in your DeWinton drawings, I’m about halfway through doing my own, would be good to compare
Happy 90th birthday Colin.
I could see the laser dot, it was a fraction under your printed scale! The laser needs to come up 4-5mm for you to see it...
Making a saxophone wood mouthpiece is very accurate. Thank you for your efforts. I'm also a saxophone mouthpiece handmade sculptor.
I would love to get in contact with you. I play on a 1930s Buescher MP. It's scary playing on a MP that can't be replaced. I have a drawer full of them that don't play because of the facing, but when I've tried having them refaced it never works. It doesn't make sense to me that removing material from one part of the MP wouldn't affect everything else. The answer would be to make an exact copy. I've tried to find somebody to do a 3D copy, with no luck. Not sure how they would work anyway. Such a lightweight material. Any suggestions would be so appreciated!
Amazing how fast the pickle bath works. A nice engine you have there.
As we get older, more and bigger is the key. At my age, I really need this to be 6 feet tall and at 20 feet. Perhaps I should build a bracket that aims the laser at the ceiling at say a 45 degree angle and then mount a scale up there.
A belated happy birthday, Colin, and I'm sorry to hear you had to sell the project on. Hopefully the new owners will be able to continue the level of care and detail you've given it. I've been watching this series today after discovering I wouldn't be able to do the work I'd planned for mine and have been learning a lot. Especially about not trusting drawings!
I wonder if the cutouts in the end caps were there just to save cost - at this scale it wouldn't make a difference but i imagine if you were casting the full size ones you could save quite a lot of material doing so, especially if you're making hundreds!
You’re probably right. After all, their frames made in sections must have again been value for money.
Quite a bit of fun. Soon all you will have left to do is the simple bit, the boiler.
Last week I had my 90th birthday so I’m a bit restricted in what I can do. Regrettably, I sold it on to a couple of enthusiasts. Thanks for your comments and interest. Best regards.
The grub screw should be more than enough.
The amount of precision needed is staggering. You are doing quite well.
It's a pity that the foundry was not good for you. That is sad.
Such a long time ago! Later, I found that they were using old railway sleeper footings which were over a hundred years old and of unknown contents.
I find it interesting that you are feeding away from the headstock. I do like the cutting out of the steam passages in the sleeve, it does really make good sense.
Very nice
WOW you are amazing. That is a work of art. Love it.
Thank you very much!
У ТЕБЯ СВЕРЛА ПРОВОРАЧИВАЮТСЯ . ХОРОШИЙ МАСТЕР ТАКОГО СЕБЕ НЕ ПОЗВОЛЯЕТ .
Try to be constructive. Advice is always welcome.
I assume you meant endmill when you said drill. So occasionally the morse taper slips because I didn’t ram it home hard enough. So that makes me human not a bad master!
I speak under correction, but I believe the reason pivot steel comes in "random sizes" is because it's made from piano wire and therefore would be sized according to the dictates of the relevant musical notes.
You and your friend are correct, instruments carry much of their perceived value on name recognition (aka snob appeal) and with whom they are associated. Country of production and component part composition affect value. Manufacturers still make instrument lines for specific price points, even Buffet has student plastic options. Having a quality older wooden clarinet reconditioned just cost me over $600, and it was in good shape to start. I want to make one of these lamps, but it will be done with a low value plastic instrument, like we would keep for outdoor winter marching band...lots of them available.
Good luck with that and thank you for your comment.
Hi Colin, what a fascinating video. Thank you for taking the time to make it and share it. 👍 Mark
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Collin. I think you have great idea and it's simple.
Hi Colin, one of your videos just popped into my feed. I'll be playihng catch up on this little series. Cheers Mark
Sorry Mark, but I’m afraid I stopped at number 17. Age and infirmity to blame! I have sold it on and the two who collected it would consider following on. I hope so. However enjoy all my other videos. Good luck.
@@colinmaceke7474 that is such a shame Colin. I'll still enjoy the videos that you have posted. All the best, Mark