Thank you so much for the detailed video. The real application was so insightful. Your work is amazing.
@OddViking11 сағат бұрын
thank you! I am glad it was helpful.
@meadmaker45253 күн бұрын
Really interesting video. What did you print in? PLA? PTEG? ABS? Just curious. I wonder if something in the print settings or materials could have made a difference in the smoothness of the piece, or if that's pretty much as good as it gets before the Bondo and sanding start? Just started looking at getting into the 3D printing hobby myself and there's SO much out there. Once I saw my first video on printing Star Wars props, I was hooked. I've already got an ever-growing list in my head of stuff I want to make, and I don't even have a printer yet. LOL! Thanks for sharing your process.
@OddViking3 күн бұрын
I don’t really know. I buy my prints, and only have a medium sized resin printer, so I don’t know anything on the settings.
@meadmaker45252 күн бұрын
@@OddViking - Fair enough. Thanks for the reply.
@sierra75346 күн бұрын
The priming that you do after the gouge weathering in this video - is that before, after, or is it the same priming you did after the filler primer in your video on filling and sanding 3D prints? I'm confused on where the weathering and priming happens in this video compared to the working with 3D prints video. Thanks!
@OddViking6 күн бұрын
I usually do the black primer after the gouge marks. If it is a dent (especially into a 3D print) I usually do some filler primer after that to smooth out the "dent" but after sharper gouges like in Clone Armor, only regular primer.
@sierra75346 күн бұрын
@@OddViking Thanks! Do you have any videos on finishing the inside of the helmets? Do you put foam, buckles, chinstraps, lights or fans or anything in there?
@OddViking6 күн бұрын
@@sierra7534 No videos on that, but I do put foam (usually these velcro-in airsoft helmet pads from cheap sets on Amazon), and I usually add fans, and sometimes mic and sound systems, depending on the character.
@sierra75347 күн бұрын
This channel is by far the best channel on prop making! I'm in awe of this guy
@sierra75347 күн бұрын
PLEASE show a video on how you did this! From the print file to setting it on the spinner. This is exactly what I'm researching to do
@OddViking6 күн бұрын
I don’t have a video, but I documented it a lot in photos on Instagram and on the Clone Troopers Detachment forum: 501stclonetroopers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/27931-new-imperial-surplus-movie-realistic-episode-iii-helmet-buildreview/
@sierra75347 күн бұрын
I've been wanting to do props my entire life since I was a little kid. Was about to take my shot at a clone trooper arc helmet and was discouraged watching videos on how to do it because everyone's props weren't up to my standards. They had print lines and/or looked chunky and janky (which I now know is too much bondo and lack of sanding). This guy had me hooked right from the start with his piece he showed off. Thanks for restoring my hope! I'm super pumped to get my print started!
@OddViking6 күн бұрын
Excellent! welcome to a great new hobby!
@Itcr08 күн бұрын
Nice informative video, thanks. But when you're sanding, you should always try to use a flat surface. You could end up with grooves, curves or radiuses where you don't want them, just a tip. Nice work, keep it up:) PS: This is nothing against you, but I do have a personal gripe against crushed and bent tubes of stuff xD just start rolling from the back, then you get to use it all:) Edit: Had not come to the point where you described sanding blocks. Sorry. Love your work.
@MrVisikid9 күн бұрын
Great video!
@ryanomartinicus10 күн бұрын
Do you directly paint over the Bright Metallic spray paint or use a clear coat? If you do prefer a clear coat, which have you found is most compatible with the Rust-oleum?
@OddViking8 күн бұрын
There is not a cheap or easy way to get a metallic finish, and Rustoleum (and all can metallics) will dull with clear coats, and masking tape and masking fluids will also dull it. The way I get those is with airbrush metallics (Alclad chrome is cheaper but works great, but the examples shown were Alumaluster). Those metallics will also dull with standard clear coats, so they need a 2-part 2K clear, which I mix and airbrush on with an HPLV gun. It's not easy, and takes a lot of work to prep, but its really the only way to get a reflective metallic like that ready to coat with paint for chipping.
@Jesttricks11 күн бұрын
I keep start and stopping my first project which is a full mandolarian armor. I got the full suit like 70% and just was taking forever. I wish I had this video 2 yrs ago. I going to get it another try now.
@OddViking11 күн бұрын
Yes! try it one more time. this stuff isn’t easy, but being a cool looking Mandalorian will be worth it.
@ten48hit11 күн бұрын
I tried this method on my tank for the tank of my SlimeBlower from Ghostbusters 2. I had some kind of failure in the seams but only on the seams that were facing up and most recently painted with 2x1 primer and filler. I’m wondering if I need to rebondo with 100% bondo and then spray it again? I have pics if needed to reference.
@OddViking11 күн бұрын
I am not sure, what kind of failure was it? cracking?
@ten48hit11 күн бұрын
@@OddVikingyes. Cracking Only on the seams
@The_Vhibe11 күн бұрын
I am building my first big prop, and this technique is the GOAT!!!!!
@matthewprice574912 күн бұрын
Beautiful finish. Great video!
@brandonb33s13 күн бұрын
Hey man this is a really informative video but please wear a respirator when working with bondo and acetone and dry sanding, you’re gonna burn a hole in your lung
@OddViking13 күн бұрын
while I do agree with PPE for many things, a standard dust mask is fine for sanding Bondo. Acetone will not “burn a hole in your lung” in any way. according to the NIH, repeated industrial long exposure to acetone can be a mild irritant to the lungs (and reduced exposure reverses any effects), but that is after weeks of 8 hours shifts. this article documents many of their test results. You are welcome to use a respirator, but I only am exposed for 30 minutes on occasion a month apart, which is well below that danger for mild irritation: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK590387/
@Gre4tOne13 күн бұрын
Everyone in the US uses Bondo for covering lines - here in Europe you can´t buy it regulary. Why not using wood filler - it is also not chemical you don´t need gloves or masks.
@OddViking13 күн бұрын
yes, I know lots of people love using wood filler. I have replied to many in the comments about trying wood filler, I just haven’t tried it yet.
@TerminatorFiles14 күн бұрын
This may be a very long video, but it showed me perfectly how to get smooth parts. I'm so going to invest in all items shown here. Thank you very much! New subscriber, and bookmarked the video for future reference! Keep up the good work.
@OddViking11 күн бұрын
thank you so much! I originally tried to make it shorter, but I think showing it more real time is helpful.
@calabos115 күн бұрын
i have all my prints ready to go. my mando helmet is in several pieces like yours how do you prep yours to place the smaller parts in place?
@OddViking14 күн бұрын
In the video I show I tape off the glue areas. Then I finish and paint each piece separately before gluing them in.
@COSMICAMISSION15 күн бұрын
Outstanding tutorial. Thankyou!!
@paulkaiser883417 күн бұрын
Upol is also way better than the Brondo as its shrinkage is negligible - Brondo has crazy shrinkage and cracks
@paulkaiser883417 күн бұрын
The Brondo spray filler primer is WAY BETTER than the rust oleum - not even close. Ex. Drying time, fill/stressing, coverage, etc
@surrealbullet739017 күн бұрын
what about rubber cement instead of the latex?
@OddViking16 күн бұрын
I haven't tried it, but the issue may be with paint interaction. I know contact cement sort of dissolves paint, and that may be true of Rubber Cement. You can try it, but latex masking fluid is not expensive.
@FX2LTD17 күн бұрын
A few questions: 1) Can wet sanding be done since the beginning, in order to avoid too much dust and preserve the sanding paper (i.e. with 120 sandpaper), or does it work only with higher numbers of sandpaper (i.e. 400 and above)? I have started with a dry 120 and it did barely do anything at all, but the print was not too smooth. It is just a test prototype... 2) Can the protective tape be masking tape, or does it have to be thicker/more protective? Did you remove it by just pulling it up, or did you have to use more caution (like a cutter) in order to prevent more stuff coming off? 3) did you sandpaper also the "future velcro parts areas" before putting tape on them, or did you leave them raw PLA and just put the tape on them? 4) Did you do any work (sandpaper/putty/primer/paint) on the inside (not the edges) or did you leave it raw PLA? Thank you for the precious video!
@OddViking17 күн бұрын
Great questions! 1- You can wet sand at any stage to avoid dust, as long as the paper is waterproof (it usually says "wet or dry" if it is okay to use wet). 2- Masking tape works great to protect it. Because of so many layers of paint on top, I used a blade to cut the edges of the tape before peeling it off. 3- I did not sand those areas, raw PLA is great to glue to. 4- I usually do not finish the inside of helmets, but some props do need finishing inside, like a recent rigid backpack build I did, because the inside is meant to be seen.
@DelVillatoro17 күн бұрын
Ive been researching many ways to finish many sizes of 3d prints. This tutorial is easily the best and most efficient method ive seen for large prints. Thank you so much, cant wait to get started on this method. I just need my large printer to arrive!
@OddViking17 күн бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@AdamJarvis-r3q18 күн бұрын
Thank you for a great video! I am making a slime blower from Ghostbusters 2 and I am about ready to use this method on the tanks! Can't wait to see the results!!
@peterkallend501224 күн бұрын
Tweaking your slicer settings will get rid of those print artifacts. Also, try using random seams instead of aligned seams. I hardly have to do anything in terms of post processing because I took the time to optimize filament, layer, support and quality settings.
@OddViking22 күн бұрын
I do not have a filament printer, I purchased these prints. But based on the feedback to this video, clearly most people have to post-process prints to get a smooth surface, regardless of artifacts. The thigh plate had no artifacts, but still required filling.
@Surge130024 күн бұрын
Have you tried modeling paste instead of bondo? I hear it's easier to sand down.
@OddViking22 күн бұрын
I have not, but Bondo is very soft and easy to sand.
@Surge130021 күн бұрын
@@OddViking Yeah i really liked how it wasnt gumming up the paper. Thanks for the reply! Happy building!
@greyofpta530526 күн бұрын
Thank you for these videos. They inspired me to make a case for my trooper armor and now I'm off to make that helmet case as well. :)
@OddViking26 күн бұрын
excellent!
@simplesimples26 күн бұрын
That acetone-bondo mix is genius - I don't know how I didn't read up on that anywhere else earlier! Very informative
@OddViking26 күн бұрын
Once I tried it, I have never gone back.
@zero-coolpropshop174827 күн бұрын
very well laid out and every stage explained perfectly!
@OddViking27 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@dinneryeti27 күн бұрын
I had no idea the vid lasted that long, this is how a tutorial vid should be. In depth and to the point, with actual demonstration of it.
@OddViking27 күн бұрын
I originally planned a shorter peppy version, but I thought it would be better to show it all more real-time.
@tommywright27 күн бұрын
Purely hypothetically speaking... let's say you used one of your wife's nice bowls to mix this stuff in. How would you go about cleaning it? Asking for a friend.
@OddViking27 күн бұрын
I assume Acetone should clean it, but I am not certain once it dries... Next time use a paper cup or bowl.
@GeekMomMakes27 күн бұрын
Great tutorial! I learnt a lot throughout the 4 parts. As far as diffusing LEDs, have you considered using LED foam (Plastazote LD45)? I haven't used it a whole lot, but so far, it works great for me!
@OddViking27 күн бұрын
I have not tried it!
@RyanBird-kc4hk28 күн бұрын
I appreciate how you not just explain key points but also demonstrate (e.g. acetone effect on solo cup). These nuances set your video far above others. Well done!
@tommywright28 күн бұрын
Hey! Great technique.. I just tried it and it worked great. How do you clean your brush afterward? Do you soak it in acetone?
@OddViking28 күн бұрын
That’s great to hear. for my brush, I use a disposable brush and throw it away after.
@tommywright28 күн бұрын
@@OddViking Ah.. I noticed the paper cup also. Okay, good stuff!
@theGoodNightArmada29 күн бұрын
Absolutely love this. It’s these additions that can make or break a starwars ambiance. I’ve used adhesion promoter I believe rustoleum makes it. Really helped with the cases I’ve been doing.
@TheUGLYPainterАй бұрын
Dude, this may be the smartest video I’ve seen. Thank you for all the details and especially for not sounding like the other KZreadrs (annoying).
@OddVikingАй бұрын
Thank you so much!
@PatrickMatherneАй бұрын
The red on that Stormtrooper case does seem to fit, if you think of it as a blood stain left after a battle
@shadowdemon8597Ай бұрын
hey thanks for this video i am getting into 3D printing and this really helps
@dpm911Ай бұрын
so im trying to follow your method. I wet sanded with 220 and it basically removed almost all the bondo. am I doing something wrong?
@OddVikingАй бұрын
the idea is that it fills the valleys, and you sand down to them. usually it is more red than print, but it does peek through at times. it may be that you need a few more coats to fully cover it, and sand only enough to get it smooth. filler primer will usually fill a bit, as well as reveal the true texture
@dpm911Ай бұрын
@OddViking I did only do two coats the first time and I guess I was a little heavy handed on the sanding. I re-applied 3 coats and ill go a little easier with the sanding on round two
@elwoodfanwwodАй бұрын
I just ordered my first bed slinger so, I'm benging vids like this. Thanks for the info and the insperation.
@karolgolden231Ай бұрын
I'm new to making move prop but slowly getting there and thanks to this video I've learn something new, thanks man!
@KaitoKazeАй бұрын
the water in wet sanding basically become like lubricant, it make the sanding more smoothly, and the grid come down a little too, but I agree, it keep dust away, making it more effective and literally smoothing out the sand, making you you less likely getting scratch on your primer, hence smoother finished, also this channel is super underrated
@OddVikingАй бұрын
exactly! I love wet sanding.
@michelle7185Ай бұрын
If you aren’t trooping as Tech yet then you really should. 😄 Amazing work! 💪
@LordNerfherderАй бұрын
My best tips: matte finnish, matt/satin coats after. They make your cosolay photos look soo much better. Unless you go perfect gloss coats. 100%.
@Jump_AceАй бұрын
Really great stuff man. I don't know if I'd ever make props, but if I do, I'm subbed and know right where to go!
@inmansfault592Ай бұрын
One of the best start to finish... finishing videos I've found. A good friend is printing me a full size 40k chainsword, and it will be my first attempt at this type of finishing and painting. I will be rewatching this several times in preparation. Any tips or videos you could point me at for painting small details that will require brush work? This is also something I've never done.
@OddVikingАй бұрын
That sounds like a great project! For brush painting, I don't have any suggestions for that. I came to this hobby with a past as an illustrator, so brush painting was always something I could already do.
@Imperial_daggerАй бұрын
Can you use this method on PLA?
@OddVikingАй бұрын
these were all PLA prints
@Imperial_daggerАй бұрын
@@OddViking thank you for another great video! Keep up the great work!!
@jpendersen1294Ай бұрын
I haven't met a anyone in the 501st acting like that yet, I've had great experiences with all the 501st members I've met, I'm joining because of them, I agree with your response.
@BasicallyAChickenАй бұрын
Commenting just because this was worth the watch and deserves the engagement, thank you.
Пікірлер
Thank you so much for the detailed video. The real application was so insightful. Your work is amazing.
thank you! I am glad it was helpful.
Really interesting video. What did you print in? PLA? PTEG? ABS? Just curious. I wonder if something in the print settings or materials could have made a difference in the smoothness of the piece, or if that's pretty much as good as it gets before the Bondo and sanding start? Just started looking at getting into the 3D printing hobby myself and there's SO much out there. Once I saw my first video on printing Star Wars props, I was hooked. I've already got an ever-growing list in my head of stuff I want to make, and I don't even have a printer yet. LOL! Thanks for sharing your process.
I don’t really know. I buy my prints, and only have a medium sized resin printer, so I don’t know anything on the settings.
@@OddViking - Fair enough. Thanks for the reply.
The priming that you do after the gouge weathering in this video - is that before, after, or is it the same priming you did after the filler primer in your video on filling and sanding 3D prints? I'm confused on where the weathering and priming happens in this video compared to the working with 3D prints video. Thanks!
I usually do the black primer after the gouge marks. If it is a dent (especially into a 3D print) I usually do some filler primer after that to smooth out the "dent" but after sharper gouges like in Clone Armor, only regular primer.
@@OddViking Thanks! Do you have any videos on finishing the inside of the helmets? Do you put foam, buckles, chinstraps, lights or fans or anything in there?
@@sierra7534 No videos on that, but I do put foam (usually these velcro-in airsoft helmet pads from cheap sets on Amazon), and I usually add fans, and sometimes mic and sound systems, depending on the character.
This channel is by far the best channel on prop making! I'm in awe of this guy
PLEASE show a video on how you did this! From the print file to setting it on the spinner. This is exactly what I'm researching to do
I don’t have a video, but I documented it a lot in photos on Instagram and on the Clone Troopers Detachment forum: 501stclonetroopers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/27931-new-imperial-surplus-movie-realistic-episode-iii-helmet-buildreview/
I've been wanting to do props my entire life since I was a little kid. Was about to take my shot at a clone trooper arc helmet and was discouraged watching videos on how to do it because everyone's props weren't up to my standards. They had print lines and/or looked chunky and janky (which I now know is too much bondo and lack of sanding). This guy had me hooked right from the start with his piece he showed off. Thanks for restoring my hope! I'm super pumped to get my print started!
Excellent! welcome to a great new hobby!
Nice informative video, thanks. But when you're sanding, you should always try to use a flat surface. You could end up with grooves, curves or radiuses where you don't want them, just a tip. Nice work, keep it up:) PS: This is nothing against you, but I do have a personal gripe against crushed and bent tubes of stuff xD just start rolling from the back, then you get to use it all:) Edit: Had not come to the point where you described sanding blocks. Sorry. Love your work.
Great video!
Do you directly paint over the Bright Metallic spray paint or use a clear coat? If you do prefer a clear coat, which have you found is most compatible with the Rust-oleum?
There is not a cheap or easy way to get a metallic finish, and Rustoleum (and all can metallics) will dull with clear coats, and masking tape and masking fluids will also dull it. The way I get those is with airbrush metallics (Alclad chrome is cheaper but works great, but the examples shown were Alumaluster). Those metallics will also dull with standard clear coats, so they need a 2-part 2K clear, which I mix and airbrush on with an HPLV gun. It's not easy, and takes a lot of work to prep, but its really the only way to get a reflective metallic like that ready to coat with paint for chipping.
I keep start and stopping my first project which is a full mandolarian armor. I got the full suit like 70% and just was taking forever. I wish I had this video 2 yrs ago. I going to get it another try now.
Yes! try it one more time. this stuff isn’t easy, but being a cool looking Mandalorian will be worth it.
I tried this method on my tank for the tank of my SlimeBlower from Ghostbusters 2. I had some kind of failure in the seams but only on the seams that were facing up and most recently painted with 2x1 primer and filler. I’m wondering if I need to rebondo with 100% bondo and then spray it again? I have pics if needed to reference.
I am not sure, what kind of failure was it? cracking?
@@OddVikingyes. Cracking Only on the seams
I am building my first big prop, and this technique is the GOAT!!!!!
Beautiful finish. Great video!
Hey man this is a really informative video but please wear a respirator when working with bondo and acetone and dry sanding, you’re gonna burn a hole in your lung
while I do agree with PPE for many things, a standard dust mask is fine for sanding Bondo. Acetone will not “burn a hole in your lung” in any way. according to the NIH, repeated industrial long exposure to acetone can be a mild irritant to the lungs (and reduced exposure reverses any effects), but that is after weeks of 8 hours shifts. this article documents many of their test results. You are welcome to use a respirator, but I only am exposed for 30 minutes on occasion a month apart, which is well below that danger for mild irritation: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK590387/
Everyone in the US uses Bondo for covering lines - here in Europe you can´t buy it regulary. Why not using wood filler - it is also not chemical you don´t need gloves or masks.
yes, I know lots of people love using wood filler. I have replied to many in the comments about trying wood filler, I just haven’t tried it yet.
This may be a very long video, but it showed me perfectly how to get smooth parts. I'm so going to invest in all items shown here. Thank you very much! New subscriber, and bookmarked the video for future reference! Keep up the good work.
thank you so much! I originally tried to make it shorter, but I think showing it more real time is helpful.
i have all my prints ready to go. my mando helmet is in several pieces like yours how do you prep yours to place the smaller parts in place?
In the video I show I tape off the glue areas. Then I finish and paint each piece separately before gluing them in.
Outstanding tutorial. Thankyou!!
Upol is also way better than the Brondo as its shrinkage is negligible - Brondo has crazy shrinkage and cracks
The Brondo spray filler primer is WAY BETTER than the rust oleum - not even close. Ex. Drying time, fill/stressing, coverage, etc
what about rubber cement instead of the latex?
I haven't tried it, but the issue may be with paint interaction. I know contact cement sort of dissolves paint, and that may be true of Rubber Cement. You can try it, but latex masking fluid is not expensive.
A few questions: 1) Can wet sanding be done since the beginning, in order to avoid too much dust and preserve the sanding paper (i.e. with 120 sandpaper), or does it work only with higher numbers of sandpaper (i.e. 400 and above)? I have started with a dry 120 and it did barely do anything at all, but the print was not too smooth. It is just a test prototype... 2) Can the protective tape be masking tape, or does it have to be thicker/more protective? Did you remove it by just pulling it up, or did you have to use more caution (like a cutter) in order to prevent more stuff coming off? 3) did you sandpaper also the "future velcro parts areas" before putting tape on them, or did you leave them raw PLA and just put the tape on them? 4) Did you do any work (sandpaper/putty/primer/paint) on the inside (not the edges) or did you leave it raw PLA? Thank you for the precious video!
Great questions! 1- You can wet sand at any stage to avoid dust, as long as the paper is waterproof (it usually says "wet or dry" if it is okay to use wet). 2- Masking tape works great to protect it. Because of so many layers of paint on top, I used a blade to cut the edges of the tape before peeling it off. 3- I did not sand those areas, raw PLA is great to glue to. 4- I usually do not finish the inside of helmets, but some props do need finishing inside, like a recent rigid backpack build I did, because the inside is meant to be seen.
Ive been researching many ways to finish many sizes of 3d prints. This tutorial is easily the best and most efficient method ive seen for large prints. Thank you so much, cant wait to get started on this method. I just need my large printer to arrive!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for a great video! I am making a slime blower from Ghostbusters 2 and I am about ready to use this method on the tanks! Can't wait to see the results!!
Tweaking your slicer settings will get rid of those print artifacts. Also, try using random seams instead of aligned seams. I hardly have to do anything in terms of post processing because I took the time to optimize filament, layer, support and quality settings.
I do not have a filament printer, I purchased these prints. But based on the feedback to this video, clearly most people have to post-process prints to get a smooth surface, regardless of artifacts. The thigh plate had no artifacts, but still required filling.
Have you tried modeling paste instead of bondo? I hear it's easier to sand down.
I have not, but Bondo is very soft and easy to sand.
@@OddViking Yeah i really liked how it wasnt gumming up the paper. Thanks for the reply! Happy building!
Thank you for these videos. They inspired me to make a case for my trooper armor and now I'm off to make that helmet case as well. :)
excellent!
That acetone-bondo mix is genius - I don't know how I didn't read up on that anywhere else earlier! Very informative
Once I tried it, I have never gone back.
very well laid out and every stage explained perfectly!
Thank you!
I had no idea the vid lasted that long, this is how a tutorial vid should be. In depth and to the point, with actual demonstration of it.
I originally planned a shorter peppy version, but I thought it would be better to show it all more real-time.
Purely hypothetically speaking... let's say you used one of your wife's nice bowls to mix this stuff in. How would you go about cleaning it? Asking for a friend.
I assume Acetone should clean it, but I am not certain once it dries... Next time use a paper cup or bowl.
Great tutorial! I learnt a lot throughout the 4 parts. As far as diffusing LEDs, have you considered using LED foam (Plastazote LD45)? I haven't used it a whole lot, but so far, it works great for me!
I have not tried it!
I appreciate how you not just explain key points but also demonstrate (e.g. acetone effect on solo cup). These nuances set your video far above others. Well done!
Hey! Great technique.. I just tried it and it worked great. How do you clean your brush afterward? Do you soak it in acetone?
That’s great to hear. for my brush, I use a disposable brush and throw it away after.
@@OddViking Ah.. I noticed the paper cup also. Okay, good stuff!
Absolutely love this. It’s these additions that can make or break a starwars ambiance. I’ve used adhesion promoter I believe rustoleum makes it. Really helped with the cases I’ve been doing.
Dude, this may be the smartest video I’ve seen. Thank you for all the details and especially for not sounding like the other KZreadrs (annoying).
Thank you so much!
The red on that Stormtrooper case does seem to fit, if you think of it as a blood stain left after a battle
hey thanks for this video i am getting into 3D printing and this really helps
so im trying to follow your method. I wet sanded with 220 and it basically removed almost all the bondo. am I doing something wrong?
the idea is that it fills the valleys, and you sand down to them. usually it is more red than print, but it does peek through at times. it may be that you need a few more coats to fully cover it, and sand only enough to get it smooth. filler primer will usually fill a bit, as well as reveal the true texture
@OddViking I did only do two coats the first time and I guess I was a little heavy handed on the sanding. I re-applied 3 coats and ill go a little easier with the sanding on round two
I just ordered my first bed slinger so, I'm benging vids like this. Thanks for the info and the insperation.
I'm new to making move prop but slowly getting there and thanks to this video I've learn something new, thanks man!
the water in wet sanding basically become like lubricant, it make the sanding more smoothly, and the grid come down a little too, but I agree, it keep dust away, making it more effective and literally smoothing out the sand, making you you less likely getting scratch on your primer, hence smoother finished, also this channel is super underrated
exactly! I love wet sanding.
If you aren’t trooping as Tech yet then you really should. 😄 Amazing work! 💪
My best tips: matte finnish, matt/satin coats after. They make your cosolay photos look soo much better. Unless you go perfect gloss coats. 100%.
Really great stuff man. I don't know if I'd ever make props, but if I do, I'm subbed and know right where to go!
One of the best start to finish... finishing videos I've found. A good friend is printing me a full size 40k chainsword, and it will be my first attempt at this type of finishing and painting. I will be rewatching this several times in preparation. Any tips or videos you could point me at for painting small details that will require brush work? This is also something I've never done.
That sounds like a great project! For brush painting, I don't have any suggestions for that. I came to this hobby with a past as an illustrator, so brush painting was always something I could already do.
Can you use this method on PLA?
these were all PLA prints
@@OddViking thank you for another great video! Keep up the great work!!
I haven't met a anyone in the 501st acting like that yet, I've had great experiences with all the 501st members I've met, I'm joining because of them, I agree with your response.
Commenting just because this was worth the watch and deserves the engagement, thank you.
excellent, thank you!
Great info.